---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 05/10/04: 40 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:09 AM - RV6 firewall insulation (DWENSING@aol.com) 2. 07:11 AM - Re: RV6 firewall insulation (Larry Pardue) 3. 07:45 AM - Unleaded 100 Octane (Donald Mei) 4. 07:47 AM - Re: RV6 firewall insulation (Dave Bristol) 5. 08:00 AM - Re: RV6 firewall insulation (Vanremog@aol.com) 6. 08:27 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 05/09/04 (Tom Roberts) 7. 08:41 AM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) (pcondon) 8. 09:25 AM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) (SportAV8R@aol.com) 9. 09:41 AM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) (Brian Alley) 10. 10:18 AM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) (Stein Bruch) 11. 10:23 AM - Electronic Widget Power Draw () 12. 10:29 AM - Re: Help with tachometer pickup (Mike Robertson) 13. 10:39 AM - Re: Electronic Widget Power Draw (Terry Watson) 14. 10:53 AM - Re: Electronic Widget Power Draw (James E. Clark) 15. 10:53 AM - Re: Electronic Widget Power Draw (linn walters) 16. 12:40 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) (Curt Reimer) 17. 12:53 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 18. 01:22 PM - asbestos (Wheeler North) 19. 01:24 PM - Re: Electronic Widget Power Draw (George Neal E Capt AU/PC) 20. 01:28 PM - Re: Wish List (Bob) 21. 02:08 PM - Corrosion of gear legs vs Gear leg Stiffners vs were legs primed adequately (David Carter) 22. 02:20 PM - Re: RV6 firewall insulation (Kyle Boatright) 23. 02:22 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea) (Bill Dube) 24. 03:03 PM - Re: RV6 firewall insulation (Terry Watson) 25. 03:22 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea) (Stein Bruch) 26. 03:36 PM - AWO to OSH via the lower 48 (Wheeler North) 27. 03:57 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea) (RV6ator@aol.com) 28. 03:57 PM - Re: RV List Fish Fry (smoothweasel@juno.com) 29. 04:41 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (are a good idea) (RV6 Flyer) 30. 06:55 PM - LP4-3 Blind Fasteners (Piavis) 31. 07:17 PM - RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings (Rich Crosley) 32. 07:31 PM - Re: AWO to OSH via the lower 48 (Charlie & Tupper England) 33. 07:46 PM - Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings (Pat Hatch) 34. 08:03 PM - RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings (Gabe A Ferrer) 35. 08:15 PM - Re: Corrosion of gear legs vs Gear leg Stiffners vs were legs primed... (Vanremog@aol.com) 36. 08:27 PM - Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings (Larry Pardue) 37. 08:27 PM - Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings (Randy Lervold) 38. 08:36 PM - Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings (JOHN STARN) 39. 09:25 PM - Re: Unleaded 100 Octane (thomas a. sargent) 40. 09:39 PM - Re: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings (Stein Bruch) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:09:44 AM PST US From: DWENSING@aol.com Subject: RV-List: RV6 firewall insulation --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com Searched the archives and found no recent info on installation of firewall insulation. The archive info did seem to indicate that the spray on adhesive is not sufficient to hold insulation in place for very long. 1. Is firewall insulation a "must" for reducing heat and noise on the RV6? 2. Has anyone found an attachment method that is durable? Dale Ensing RV6A N118DE reserved ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:11:13 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 firewall insulation From: Larry Pardue --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue on 5/10/04 7:04 AM, DWENSING@aol.com at DWENSING@aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com > > > Searched the archives and found no recent info on installation of firewall > insulation. > The archive info did seem to indicate that the spray on adhesive is not > sufficient to hold insulation in place for very long. > > 1. Is firewall insulation a "must" for reducing heat and noise on the RV6? > I have no insulation anywhere and have never missed it, as long as I wear headseats. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://n5lp.net ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:45:27 AM PST US From: "Donald Mei" Subject: RV-List: Unleaded 100 Octane --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" Dear All, There is continuous discussion of "the demise of 100ll". I was recently refered to this info by a mutual car nut. If Sunoco can get 100 Oct without any "metal additives", whats to prevent the same thing from replacing 100 LL. Kindof a speculative question, but I'm hoping it will lead to some interesting discussion. I am aware that Av fuel and auto fuel octane ratings are measured differently at different A/F ratios but am not aware of the affect it has on the rating. Don *********************** http://www.racegas.com/gt100locals/default.asp Sunoco GTTM 100, which has the highest octane rating of any street legal fuel, is now available at selected retail locations. Sunoco GT 100 is designed for high performance street cars, muscle cars, classics, street rods, motorcycles, karts and marine applications. Sunoco GT 100 contains no metallic compounds to harm catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. It contains a comprehensive additive package for greater engine protection and reduced fuel system deposits as measured by the BMW test. Sunoco GT 100 is also compatible with virtually all two-stroke synthetic and mineral based motor oils. GT 100 Unleaded is available at selected locations throughout the U.S. In certain areas, GT 100 Unleaded is available under the CAM2 GTTM 100 label. Mothers Day is May 9. Make it special with great ideas from the Mothers ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:47:52 AM PST US From: Dave Bristol Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 firewall insulation --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol Dale, Put your money into good headsets. While the insulation would probably help reduce he overall noise by a relatively small amount, it's heavy and expensive and, in my opinion, the exhaust and wind noise are more of a problem. Dave, RV6 So Cal EAA Technical Counselor DWENSING@aol.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com > > >Searched the archives and found no recent info on installation of firewall >insulation. >The archive info did seem to indicate that the spray on adhesive is not >sufficient to hold insulation in place for very long. > >1. Is firewall insulation a "must" for reducing heat and noise on the RV6? > >2. Has anyone found an attachment method that is durable? >Dale Ensing >RV6A N118DE reserved > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:00:38 AM PST US From: Vanremog@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 firewall insulation --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com In a message dated 5/10/2004 6:11:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time, DWENSING@aol.com writes: 1. Is firewall insulation a "must" for reducing heat and noise on the RV6? 2. Has anyone found an attachment method that is durable? ========================== This is, of course, a personal choice and the RV is, by nature, a noisy airframe. Insulation is desirable to make it less so. However, insulation that works will add weight. I have probably one of the coolest and quietest RVs around, but that comes at a price in $$ and weight. There remains a substantial noise level that must be dealt with using ANR headsets. Further, unless you get your external air from some place other than the fuselage, you will still get warmed air from the cowling external surface. GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 690 hrs) Not all questions or values which human beings find worth pursuing and committing themselves to can be approached scientifically. There can be no doubt that scientific theories fulfill a vital human need. But so do nonscientific theories, whether they be in the field of cosmology or religion, art, morality, knowledge or even science.---Robert Todd Carroll ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:27:44 AM PST US From: "Tom Roberts" Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 05/09/04 --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Roberts" Please unsubscribe me. ----- Original Message ----- From: "RV-List Digest Server" Subject: RV-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 05/09/04 > * > > ================================================== > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================== > > Today's complete RV-List Digest can be also be found in either > of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest > formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked > Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII > version of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic > text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2004-05-09.html > > Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2004-05-09.txt > > > ================================================ > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================ > > > RV-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Sun 05/09/04: 10 > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 09:39 AM - Wish List (YonderRDC@aol.com) > 2. 11:54 AM - Re: RV6/A Gross Weight.... (RV6AOKC@aol.com) > 3. 01:45 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (Hal / Carol Kempthorne) > 4. 02:55 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added) (Tom Gummo) > 5. 03:12 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added) (Bruce Gray) > 6. 03:49 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added) (Paul Besing) > 7. 04:40 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (Bob U.) > 8. 07:56 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added) (JOHN STARN) > 9. 08:27 PM - Re: Gear leg Stiffners (Brian Alley) > 10. 09:15 PM - RV List Fish Fry (smoothweasel@juno.com) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 09:39:14 AM PST US > From: YonderRDC@aol.com > Subject: RV-List: Wish List > > --> RV-List message posted by: YonderRDC@aol.com > > Hi All...To introduce myself---David Ward here...... > I have been spying on you all for the last couple of years while preparing to > seriously join the fray. Two years worth of planning, saving, and educating > myself. You all have been a big part of that last one. Thanks for all the > insight and education! I am currently in the permit application process to build > > a new shop in which to build my RV-8....God willing (and the County permit > folks), I should have the shop completed by the 4th of July or so. A trip to > Vans is planned for June (in concert with Scappose I suspect)...to pick up an > empennage kit. > > That said....I though you might lend your expertise as I draw up my wish list > for the new shop/Hanger (room for a 1700 ft. strip!). Yes...I Have reviewed > the archives. What has worked especially well for you in the shop...what do > you wish you had done....what should'nt you have done...done differently, any > hints on any aspect would be appreciated. Lighting, tools, hanger doors, > creature comforts, floor paint?....plumbing for the compressor (anybody use > PVC?)...etc. You get the idea. If you were doing what I was, what would you > do? > If you don't want to clog up the list with this stuff feel free to resond > directly to yonderrdc@aol.com. If anyone wants phone #'s let me know. > > I'll be ordering aircraft tools from cleveland or avery soon and dropping a > small fortune at SEARS. I've been picking up odds and ends recently ....latest > > is a Dremel setup and a gross of flame-proof underwear :). > > Thanks very much for any information all. It's a pleasure to finally say > Hi... > > David > > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 11:54:07 AM PST US > From: RV6AOKC@aol.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6/A Gross Weight.... > > --> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com > > Bob, > > These are the figures I got from Vans several years ago from Bill Benedict, > who has since passed on. I don't think they will publish any figures beyond > what is in the books now for liability reasons, which I understand. However, > I would have to assume that some type of engineering was done to confirm these > > numbers. They don't really mean much until I do my test program anyway, but > it was a place to start. > > Kurt > > Do Not Archive > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 01:45:52 PM PST US > From: Hal / Carol Kempthorne > Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners > > --> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne > > At 04:35 PM 5/6/2004, you wrote: > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan" > > > > I wouldn't put them on, here's why. > > > snip > >I figure the only thing > >that saved my gear and motor mount, was the Whitman gear. If it had been > >stiff, I probley would have had to replace more than just the wheelpant. > > I doubt it. The steel is twenty times stronger than the wood, maybe > more. The wood would have added very little to strength. > > However, wood is very good at damping vibration. Some years ago a railroad > tried using ties made of concrete instead of wood in order to reduce > costs. While wood ties last years, the concrete began breaking up in a few > weeks. > > > K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne > RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now. > PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 02:55:22 PM PST US > From: "Tom Gummo" > Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added) > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" > > > Some years ago a railroad > > tried using ties made of concrete instead of wood in order to reduce > > costs. While wood ties last years, the concrete began breaking up in a > few > > weeks. > > > Besides, concrete is to hard to get to stick to the gear legs. :-) > > Tom Gummo > Apple Valley, CA > Harmon Rocket-II > > do not archive > > http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 03:12:11 PM PST US > From: "Bruce Gray" > Subject: RE: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added) > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" > > Sounds like the old joke about the newlywed who went back to her > gynecologist with the complaint that her birth control pill were the > wrong size, they kept falling out. > > Bruce > www.glasair.org > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Gummo > Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added) > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" > > > Some years ago a railroad > > tried using ties made of concrete instead of wood in order to reduce > > costs. While wood ties last years, the concrete began breaking up in > a > few > > weeks. > > > Besides, concrete is to hard to get to stick to the gear legs. :-) > > Tom Gummo > Apple Valley, CA > Harmon Rocket-II > > do not archive > > http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html > > > == > == > == > == > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 03:49:44 PM PST US > From: "Paul Besing" > Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added) > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" > > > > > > Besides, concrete is to hard to get to stick to the gear legs. :-) > > > > > Not if you use the right primer, Tom! I hear Marhyde works wonders! > > > Paul Besing > RV-6A Sold > RV-10 Soon > http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing > Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software > http://www.kitlog.com > do not archive > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 04:40:24 PM PST US > From: "Bob U." > Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob U." > > > >Some years ago a railroad > >tried using ties made of concrete instead of wood in order to reduce > >costs. While wood ties last years, the concrete began breaking up in a few > >weeks. > > > > > >K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne > >RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now. > >PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) > > > > Tsk. Tsk. > Rocla Concrete Tie, Inc sure would take issue with you. > Concrete ties have been used successfully throughout the world for more > than 50 years. > > Just a few websites.... > http://www.aslrra.org/who_we_serve/associate_members/details.cfm?memberid=1783 > http://www.kellysearch.com/qz-product-106454.html > http://www.koppers.com/htm/PandS_Rail_KSA.html > http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache:PVwLKhNmP8wJ:www.lbfoster.com/cxt/cxtrailroadproducts/TiesProd2.pdf+concrete+railroad+ties&hl=en > > FYI, even ships have been successfully been manufactured from concrete! > http://www.concreteships.org/history/ > > Bob - retired Class I railroad employee > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 07:56:07 PM PST US > From: "JOHN STARN" > Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added) > > --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" > > Ya gotta use "Concrete Cement". Yes, Virginia there is such a thing. The > last brand I used was from Elmers Glue. > Do Not Archive 8*) Kabong > > ---- Original Message ----- > From: "Tom Gummo" > Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (Humor added) > > > > > Some years ago a railroad > > > tried using ties made of concrete instead of wood in order to reduce > > > costs. While wood ties last years, the concrete began breaking up in a > > few > > > weeks. > > Besides, concrete is to hard to get to stick to the gear legs. :-) > > > > Tom Gummo > > Apple Valley, CA > > Harmon Rocket-II > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ > > > Time: 08:27:35 PM PST US > From: Brian Alley > Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners > > --> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley > > Several Tailwinds and other aircraft equipped with > tapered rod gear have suffered cracks in the gear > mount truss due to the oscillation of the gear. The > wood stiffeners change the natural frequency of the > spring gear in the direction the gear tends to > oscillate. I added wood to my gear and did eliminate a > moderate oscillation. The wood is bonded to both the > front and rear edges of the gear leg then carved into > an airfoil shape. The wood is then wrapped with > fiberglass, filled with epoxy/micro, sanded and > painted. It's a permanent part of the gear legs and > solved the problem completely. > > ===== > BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT) > CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES > 304-872-7938 shop > 304-562-6800 home > > How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck? > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ > > > Time: 09:15:51 PM PST US > rv-list@matronics.com, brooks6@ustconline.net > Subject: RV-List: RV List Fish Fry > From: smoothweasel@juno.com > > --> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com > > Hey Guy's The time is almost here for the fish fry fly-in that we have > been planning. > There will be a plenty of fun and food so come on out and see us!!!! > > See ya Sat. > > Weasel > > > > > This is an invitation to a fly-in to be held on Saturday, May 15,2004 > at > > > 11:00 a.m. We will plan on serving the meal at 12:00 noon. We > welcome > > > all aircraft that land on grass to come try out our strip. If you > don't > > > do grass strips join us for the food and friendly conversation. > > > > > > > > We are located at: > > > GPS: N 33 08.511' W 088 24.485' > > > 1950 ft. grass N/S runway > > > Caution: Power pole on the S/W corner of the runway > > > > > > If driving: > > > Travel Hwy 45 to Prairie Point Rd. Turn East on Prairie Point Rd, > pass > > > Macon Airport and of about 8.5 mi. to Greenbriar Rd. Turn South onto > > > Greenbriar, look for black catfish mailbox. Turn right at the > mailbox > > > and drive between the ponds to the house. We plan to be there, > waiting > > > for you. > > > > > > Questions? Contact us at: > > > Dwight Lee (662) 726-9709 e-mail: bubbalee69@juno.com > > > Levi Lee (662) 726-5560 > > > > > > Check e-mail or call before coming if there is a chance of bad > weather > > > cancellation. > > > > > > PS If you know anyone who would enjoy this please pass this > invitation > on > > > for us. > > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:41:56 AM PST US From: "pcondon" Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) --> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" The kind of Steel that these gear legs we use are easily rusted. I wonder if the long term effects of burying the gear rods in a tomb of sealed bondo, wood and F/G and water will cause mayor rust and structural problems down the road. Especially if you cannot inspect the condition of the rods.... ......................................................................... Time: 08:27:35 PM PST US From: Brian Alley Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners --> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley Several Tailwinds and other aircraft equipped with tapered rod gear have suffered cracks in the gear mount truss due to the oscillation of the gear. The wood stiffeners change the natural frequency of the spring gear in the direction the gear tends to oscillate. I added wood to my gear and did eliminate a moderate oscillation. The wood is bonded to both the front and rear edges of the gear leg then carved into an airfoil shape. The wood is then wrapped with fiberglass, filled with epoxy/micro, sanded and painted. It's a permanent part of the gear legs and solved the problem completely. ===== BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT) CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES 304-872-7938 shop 304-562-6800 home How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck? ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:25:52 AM PST US From: SportAV8R@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com In a message dated 5/10/2004 11:22:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, pcondon@mitre.org writes: > The kind of Steel that these gear legs we use are easily rusted. I wonder if > the long term effects of burying the gear rods in a tomb of sealed bondo, > wood and F/G and water will cause mayor rust and structural problems down > the road. Especially if you cannot inspect the condition of > the rods.... Yes, check the archives; mine were rusted and pitted when I removed the dampening stuff (never to be replaced and never missed, by the way.) -Bill B ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:41:03 AM PST US From: Brian Alley Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) --> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley The gear are epoxy primed and painted with Stits Aerothane before the wood is bonded on. The bond is a urethane adhesive used to install auto windows. I'm sure the metal gear legs are well protected from rust and corrosion. ===== BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT) CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES 304-872-7938 shop 304-562-6800 home How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck? ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 10:18:17 AM PST US From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" This very issue has gone full circle sometime ago, and there were a number of gear legs that ended up with corrossion/pitting on them as a result of the bonded stiffners. The general consensus in the past was to leave them off, but then again.....to each his own. I have 2 flying -6's, 1 with stiffners and 1 without. Honestly don't notice a difference and they won't be installed on anymore RV's that I build. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of pcondon Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) --> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" The kind of Steel that these gear legs we use are easily rusted. I wonder if the long term effects of burying the gear rods in a tomb of sealed bondo, wood and F/G and water will cause mayor rust and structural problems down the road. Especially if you cannot inspect the condition of the rods.... ......................................................................... ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 10:23:35 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Electronic Widget Power Draw From: "" --> RV-List message posted by: "" All, I am loking for the max estimated current draw most typical airplane "widgets" (strobes, lights, radio, pitot tube, navaid, etc.) draw. I am assuming most all would fit in the under 10 amp category? Reason I ask is that I am looking to get a regulated DC power supply to do testing on the bench, and I am trying to figure out which model to get (3A or 10A). I know I could also buy a cheap lawnmower battery, but I would rather not deal with charging it. Thanks, Scott 7A Wings www.scottsrv7a.com Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 10:29:37 AM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Help with tachometer pickup --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" Since you have an all electric panel, there may be one other option worth looking into. If you engine monitor uses or accepts electronic impluse to register RPM there is a magneto pickup that pops right in place in the magneto side case. It works whether the magneto is firing or grounded. Or if you have dual electronic ignition then you can use one of the ignition modules for the PRm pickup. The only problem with this is during the engine run-up. When you turn off that particular ignition module you lose the RPM sensing. If you are interested in the magneto pickup give Rob Hickman a call at Advanced Control Systems (ACS). His number is (503) 598-7727. Mike Robertson >From: "James E. Clark" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RE: RV-List: Help with tachometer pickup >Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 23:08:40 -0400 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" > >Peter, > >What we did on our RV6 is to attach a short cable from the engine to the >pickup. The pickup is mounted on a "shelf" that also holds the GPS antenna >just under the cowl. Seems to work just fine. > >I think I got the cable from the "Aviation" department of some place like >NAPA/AutoZone. > >Email me if there are additional questions. > >James > >p.s. Since you are "all electric", do you have an EFIS or electronic engine >monitor along with Electronic Ignition? Many of these combinations allow >for >RPM to be determined from counting pulses on the EI. > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of > > PeterHunt1@aol.com > > Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 6:22 PM > > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com; > > rv-list-digest@matronics.com.pts.rule.name.description.----.------------ > > ----------.-------------------------------------------------- > > Subject: RV-List: Help with tachometer pickup > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com > > > > After installing my SD20 alternator on the vacuum pad of my > > 0-360-A1A, I find > > there isn't sufficient clearance for Van's tachometer transducer to >screw > > onto the tachometer outlet on the back of my engine. I built my > > all electric > > panel around my SD20, so it will stay. Would someone help me > > understand my other > > tachometer pickup options? Thanks. > > > > Pete > > Clearwater, FL > > RV-6, installing the engine > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 10:39:16 AM PST US From: "Terry Watson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Electronic Widget Power Draw --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" Check the Matronics aeroelectric list archives. Lots of useful stuff there. Terry -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of tx_jayhawk@excite.com Subject: RV-List: Electronic Widget Power Draw --> RV-List message posted by: "" All, I am loking for the max estimated current draw most typical airplane "widgets" (strobes, lights, radio, pitot tube, navaid, etc.) draw. I am assuming most all would fit in the under 10 amp category? Thanks, Scott 7A Wings www.scottsrv7a.com ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 10:53:40 AM PST US From: "James E. Clark" Subject: RE: RV-List: Electronic Widget Power Draw --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" If you have to choose between those two, go with the 10A. There will be times that you will desire to connect more than one thing. There will be times you will experience s a sag in voltage with the 3A etc. I have both sizes. The 10A is bulkier but that is what is on the bench at the hangar now. James > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of > tx_jayhawk@excite.com > Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 1:21 PM > To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com; rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Electronic Widget Power Draw > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "" > > > All, > > I am loking for the max estimated current draw most typical > airplane "widgets" (strobes, lights, radio, pitot tube, navaid, > etc.) draw. I am assuming most all would fit in the under 10 amp > category? > > Reason I ask is that I am looking to get a regulated DC power > supply to do testing on the bench, and I am trying to figure out > which model to get (3A or 10A). I know I could also buy a cheap > lawnmower battery, but I would rather not deal with charging it. > > Thanks, > Scott > 7A Wings > www.scottsrv7a.com > > > Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com > The most personalized portal on the Web! > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 10:53:41 AM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Electronic Widget Power Draw --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "" > > >All, > >I am loking for the max estimated current draw most typical airplane "widgets" (strobes, lights, radio, pitot tube, navaid, etc.) draw. I am assuming most all would fit in the under 10 amp category? > >Reason I ask is that I am looking to get a regulated DC power supply to do testing on the bench, and I am trying to figure out which model to get (3A or 10A). I know I could also buy a cheap lawnmower battery, but I would rather not deal with charging it. > >Thanks, >Scott >7A Wings >www.scottsrv7a.com > Scott, each component is a couple of amps or less, but if you want to power a couple of items at once ..... I'd go with the 10A. Depending on just how good the filtering of the power supply is, you may or may not get hum in the audio stuff. If you do, just put the tractor battery across the power supply as a filter. Linn ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 12:40:25 PM PST US From: "Curt Reimer" Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) --> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" This may have gone full circle, but then many discussions here do so without ever coming to a concensus one way or the other. :-) In this case, I think we need to separate the "wood stiffeners help dampen oscillation" issue from the "wood stiffeners cause corrosion" issue. I think the concensus on damping is that the wood either works well (most cases) or made no difference. So I would conclude that it is worth doing from that perspective. Then there is the issue of corrosion, and the right way to do the job if you are going to do it. As another lister posted, the right way to do this is with a good epoxy primer coat prior to any stiffner bonding or fibreglass work. Has anyone who primed their gearlegs with an epoxy primer (not just epoxy) before installing the stiffeners still experienced a corrosion problem? Sometimes people try to cut corners or redesign a part or process, fail, and then rationalize that there must have been something inherently wrong with the original idea. (me included) Curt RV-6 140 hours ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) > --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" > > This very issue has gone full circle sometime ago, and there were a number > of gear legs that ended up with corrossion/pitting on them as a result of > the bonded stiffners. The general consensus in the past was to leave them > off, but then again.....to each his own. > > I have 2 flying -6's, 1 with stiffners and 1 without. Honestly don't notice > a difference and they won't be installed on anymore RV's that I build. > > Cheers, > Stein Bruch > RV6's, Minneapolis. > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of pcondon > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" > > > The kind of Steel that these gear legs we use are easily rusted. I wonder if > the long term effects of burying the gear rods in a tomb of sealed bondo, > wood and F/G and water will cause mayor rust and structural problems down > the road. Especially if you cannot inspect the condition of the rods.... > > > ......................................................................... > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 12:53:06 PM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com My gear legs came from Van's powder coated. I was not too impressed with the powder coating on the canopy frame. It appears that the steel wasn't prepped at all. If the gear legs are the same, flexing could open up cracks in the paint where corrosion could start. Has anyone had this happen? Now, how is the best way to get that powder coating off? Don't say just flex the legs and it will fall off! I am glad that someone suggested epoxy primer. I have some Dexter which is as tough as nails -- almost literally! It should be good for the gear legs. Dan Hopper RV-7A (still almost done!) In a message dated 5/10/04 2:41:38 PM US Eastern Standard Time, cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca writes: > In this case, I think we need to separate the "wood stiffeners help dampen > oscillation" issue from the "wood stiffeners cause corrosion" issue. I think > the concensus on damping is that the wood either works well (most cases) or > made no difference. So I would conclude that it is worth doing from that > perspective. Then there is the issue of corrosion, and the right way to do > the job if you are going to do it. As another lister posted, the right way > to do this is with a good epoxy primer coat prior to any stiffner bonding or > fibreglass work. Has anyone who primed their gearlegs with an epoxy primer > (not just epoxy) before installing the stiffeners still experienced a > corrosion problem? > > Sometimes people try to cut corners or redesign a part or process, fail, and > then rationalize that there must have been something inherently wrong with > the original idea. (me included) > > Curt > RV-6 140 hours > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 01:22:04 PM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: asbestos 0.0 BAYES_56 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 56 to 60% --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North Standing by with my asbestos underwear ;-) Now wait a minute Doug, that's gotta itch something fierce, so,,, there you are flying along scratching and scritching both joy sticks and who's eyes are outside the cockpit? ;{) ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 01:24:24 PM PST US From: George Neal E Capt AU/PC Subject: RE: RV-List: Electronic Widget Power Draw --> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC Scott - In my Amateur Radio activities, I've been very happy with Astron power supplies. I'd recommend a bigger supply than you think you'll need. The RS-20M will provide 20 amps intermittent and about 14 amps continuous without damaging the supply, and has meters for voltage and current mounted in the case. $117 from Ham Radio Outlet ( www.hamradio.com ). Switching supplies of equal capacity are usually advertised as less expensive, but must be carefully (expensively) filtered to control the electrical noise and RFI that is generated by the switching circuitry. A properly filtered switching power supply will cost about the same as a linear supply. It's only true "advantage" is less weight. In the Ham Shack, dirty power will make your head hurt. It will make a mess of your aviation equipment, too. 73... N8ZG (Neal) RV-7 Elevators ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 01:28:14 PM PST US From: Bob Subject: Re: RV-List: Wish List --> RV-List message posted by: Bob >That said....I though you might lend your expertise as I draw up my wish list >for the new shop/Hanger (room for a 1700 ft. strip!). Yes...I Have reviewed >the archives. What has worked especially well for you in the shop...what do >you wish you had done....what should'nt you have done...done differently, any >hints on any aspect would be appreciated. Lighting, tools, hanger doors, >creature comforts, floor paint?....plumbing for the compressor (anybody use >PVC?)...etc. You get the idea. If you were doing what I was, what would >you do? I started building in a 2 car garage and finally moved to a 2500 square foot metal barn with concrete floors. A few comments: 1. You need good heat in the winter and some way to stay cool in the summer. This is important! I used a 250 gal propane tank with a 250,000 BTU propane barn heater. Large fans in the summer. 2. You can almost never have too much money or room, but 2500 square feet was way too big, especially for heating and cooling. I enclosed a small space of about 600 square feet for most of the building. I did have the wings and tail surfaces mounted for over a year inside the barn, and still had plenty of room to move around, what a real luxury! 3. Get all the light you can, operating a flashlight, bucking bar and riveting gun all at once is hard to do. 4. Get plenty of electrical outlets, for power tools, shop tools, wood working tools and the electric drill. You can use the air drill, but I preferred the electric drill. For me, just a matter of preference. I used both, nice to have two drills ready to go at any time, both with different bits or attachments. Also get a good angel drill attachment and angle grinder. Matter of fact, just go to the Sears tool area and buy one of everything. Just kidding...well almost!! 5. I would have loved to have a painted floor. But, building the airplane came first, after the airplane was built no need for the painted floor. 6. Get a quite compressor, oil less is really loud. 7. Build shelves, cabinets and drawers. Organization of all the tools and parts is a great time saver. 8. Make sure you have plenty of electrical power, I used a 50 amp circuit box with 20 Amp outlets, now I wished I had done 100 Amps, 50 Amps is good for RV building, 100 Amps would be nice for TIG welding (welding not required, but a nice luxury). Don't forget power requirements for the air conditioner, water heater, heating system, microwave, hot tub etc. 9. Plumbing for a sink and toilet would be nice. Water is needed for cleaning and painting, etc. Outdoor faucet and hose will work. 10. Doors big enough to get parts in and out. My barn doors were big enough to roll the entire aircraft in and out. Again a real luxury! 11. You do need an AM/FM radio, used mine a lot. Also a TV with VCR would be nice to view the how to tapes. 12. And while you are at it, put in a bed and a kitchen. Will save a lot of time, get you back to building quicker. 13. Of course a two car garage will work also. Bob RV6 NightFighter ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 02:08:08 PM PST US From: "David Carter" Subject: RV-List: Corrosion of gear legs vs Gear leg Stiffners vs were legs primed adequately --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" An aluminum air filter body (in-line on my shop air compressor/tank) was powder coated at the factory and corroded through and blew out. Based on that single data point, powder coating seems worthless as a corrosion resisting treatment. I'll coat my gear legs with the strontium chomate epoxy primer that I've used on my other aluminum & steel parts. David ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) > --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com > > > My gear legs came from Van's powder coated. I was not too impressed with the > powder coating on the canopy frame. It appears that the steel wasn't prepped > at all. If the gear legs are the same, flexing could open up cracks in the > paint where corrosion could start. Has anyone had this happen? > > Now, how is the best way to get that powder coating off? Don't say just flex > the legs and it will fall off! > > I am glad that someone suggested epoxy primer. I have some Dexter which is > as tough as nails -- almost literally! It should be good for the gear legs. > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A (still almost done!) > > > In a message dated 5/10/04 2:41:38 PM US Eastern Standard Time, > cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca writes: > > > In this case, I think we need to separate the "wood stiffeners help dampen > > oscillation" issue from the "wood stiffeners cause corrosion" issue. I think > > the concensus on damping is that the wood either works well (most cases) or > > made no difference. So I would conclude that it is worth doing from that > > perspective. Then there is the issue of corrosion, and the right way to do > > the job if you are going to do it. As another lister posted, the right way > > to do this is with a good epoxy primer coat prior to any stiffner bonding or > > fibreglass work. Has anyone who primed their gearlegs with an epoxy primer > > (not just epoxy) before installing the stiffeners still experienced a > > corrosion problem? > > > > Sometimes people try to cut corners or redesign a part or process, fail, and > > then rationalize that there must have been something inherently wrong with > > the original idea. (me included) > > > > Curt > > RV-6 140 hours > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 02:20:16 PM PST US From: "Kyle Boatright" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 firewall insulation --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: RV6 firewall insulation > --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com > > > Searched the archives and found no recent info on installation of firewall > insulation. > The archive info did seem to indicate that the spray on adhesive is not > sufficient to hold insulation in place for very long. > > 1. Is firewall insulation a "must" for reducing heat and noise on the RV6? A must? Naah, but RV's are very noisy (no mufflers), and a carpeted/insulated floor and firewall really help with the noise. As far as heat, the firewall insulation is really nice in Southern climates. > 2. Has anyone found an attachment method that is durable? Yep. I used the spray adhesive and a little tape the first time, then had loose insulation after a couple of years. The secret is to use the spray adhesive to tack the insulation in place (starting with the biggest pieces), then to use aluminum HVAC tape to tape the heck out of each piece as you install it. Tape the big pieces to the firewall stiffeners along the perimeter of each piece, and you'll be good, then tape the adjoining pieces of insulation to the accessable stiffeners. Where stiffeners are not accessable, tape to securely fastened pieces of insulation. KB > Dale Ensing > RV6A N118DE reserved > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 02:22:49 PM PST US From: Bill Dube Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea) --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube Speaking of potentially bad ideas, has anyone tried fiberglass sheets clamped to the gear leg in a few spots? The reason I ask this is that in days of yore, leaf springs served as suspension dampers. The leaves are clamped together in several spots and thus rub against one another as the spring flexes. This damps out movement via friction. I am guessing that several layers of fiberglass "leaves" might do the same thing. Has this been tried? ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 03:03:48 PM PST US From: "Terry Watson" Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6 firewall insulation --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" For what its worth: One of my building construction magazines this month noted that Dow's "Great Stuff"(tm) canned foam insulation has been approved for fire stopping in buildings. They will be making a version of it in orange color to insure the inspectors that it is the approved kind, but it will be no different from the stuff you buy at Home Depot. Terry > Searched the archives and found no recent info on installation of firewall > insulation. ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 03:22:14 PM PST US From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea) --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" Yep.....In fact, there are a number of RV's flying with Fiberglass Rod's instead of wood attached to the legs. The thinking at the time was that the glass wouldn't absorb moisture. Not commong practice anymore. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Dube Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea) --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube Speaking of potentially bad ideas, has anyone tried fiberglass sheets clamped to the gear leg in a few spots? The reason I ask this is that in days of yore, leaf springs served as suspension dampers. The leaves are clamped together in several spots and thus rub against one another as the spring flexes. This damps out movement via friction. I am guessing that several layers of fiberglass "leaves" might do the same thing. Has this been tried? ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 03:36:22 PM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: AWO to OSH via the lower 48 --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North Folks, I'm planning a trip that will fill the 11 days between when I leave from NWEAA's flyin at AWO WA, which runs from 7.7-7.11, arriving at OSH on 7.22, that will take me straight across from WA to Maine, then down the right coast to FL, then west to the grand ole river, and back up to OSH. The idea here is to zigzag a little and land on every state in the lower 48 this summer. So far I've managed to find a few airports using aopa's search engine that include camping and a restaurant on the airport, or one close by. Are there any recommendations from y'all on good choices for overnight stays that are either close to the borders or the coasts. I'm aiming for 3 to 7 states per day (you folks on the right side aren't much in to elbow room and wide open spaces). Obviously WX will make for some real time changes to the itineary... so any advice on east coast WX rules, ie better in the morning, etc... Also, is it true that RI has only 6 airports and they all have landing fees? That's a rough deal to be from there. Another question is the rules for the SW Maine TFR. Is it a no fly TFR like the DC area or is it like a class B when hot? The sectional seems to indicate a big white 30mn area. Any other thoughts or tidbits, or anybody want to form up (very loosely) and fly a few legs kick me an email offlist. wnorth@sdccd.net W do not archive ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 03:57:13 PM PST US From: RV6ator@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffeners (This may be a bad idea) --> RV-List message posted by: RV6ator@aol.com I have the fiberglass gear leg fairings filled with foam. To insure that my gear legs would not corrode from moisture soaked foam, I first primed the gear legs with epoxy primer, and then applied large heat shrink tubing to the gear legs. Worked great! Large diameter heat shrink tubing is available at electrical wholesale warehouses. I put the brake lines between the gear leg and the heat shrink. Bill Mahoney RV-6 N747W first flight 9/91 ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 03:57:13 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: RV List Fish Fry From: smoothweasel@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com Sorry I forgot to ad that This Fly-In is located approximatly 8.5mi East of Macon, MS Do Not Archive On Sun, 9 May 2004 22:56:18 -0500 smoothweasel@juno.com writes: > --> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com > > Hey Guy's The time is almost here for the fish fry fly-in that we > have > been planning. > There will be a plenty of fun and food so come on out and see > us!!!! > > See ya Sat. > > Weasel > > > > > This is an invitation to a fly-in to be held on Saturday, May > 15,2004 > at > > > 11:00 a.m. We will plan on serving the meal at 12:00 noon. We > welcome > > > all aircraft that land on grass to come try out our strip. If > you > don't > > > do grass strips join us for the food and friendly conversation. > > > > > > > > We are located at: > > > GPS: N 33 08.511' W 088 24.485' > > > 1950 ft. grass N/S runway > > > Caution: Power pole on the S/W corner of the runway > > > > > > If driving: > > > Travel Hwy 45 to Prairie Point Rd. Turn East on Prairie Point > Rd, > pass > > > Macon Airport and of about 8.5 mi. to Greenbriar Rd. Turn South > onto > > > Greenbriar, look for black catfish mailbox. Turn right at the > mailbox > > > and drive between the ponds to the house. We plan to be there, > waiting > > > for you. > > > > > > Questions? Contact us at: > > > Dwight Lee (662) 726-9709 e-mail: bubbalee69@juno.com > > > Levi Lee (662) 726-5560 > > > > > > Check e-mail or call before coming if there is a chance of bad > weather > > > cancellation. > > > > > > PS If you know anyone who would enjoy this please pass this > invitation > on > > > for us. > > > > > = > = > ============== > = > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 04:41:37 PM PST US From: "RV6 Flyer" Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (are a good idea) --> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" My RV-6 was hit by at car when it was 1.5 years old and 307 hours on it. The engine mount was broken and a gear leg bent so all was replaced. I removed the WOOD from the gear legs to inspect the steel. NO corrosion was found. I used Rustoleum primer on the gear legs. The replacements were done the exact same way. First flight was September 1997. Been across the US 9 times. As far north as Fort Yukon Alaska (north of the Arctic Circle) and as far east as the Bahamas (MYLS). The airplane also sat out side in San Jose for 6 weeks on a business trip. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,498 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of pcondon > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear leg Stiffners (This may be a bad idea) > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "pcondon" > > > The kind of Steel that these gear legs we use are easily rusted. I wonder if > the long term effects of burying the gear rods in a tomb of sealed bondo, > wood and F/G and water will cause mayor rust and structural problems down > the road. Especially if you cannot inspect the condition of the rods.... > > > ......................................................................... > > it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 06:55:39 PM PST US From: "Piavis" Subject: RV-List: LP4-3 Blind Fasteners --> RV-List message posted by: "Piavis" I'm short several LP4-3 fasteners and need to find a couple or twenty. Van's list them but to make the weekend I'd like to order from Spruce. Anyone know a suitable sub for the LP4-3 as I can't find any reference aside from Van's. Jim -7 2nd Wing Mountain View, CA ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 07:17:02 PM PST US From: "Rich Crosley" Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "Rich Crosley" It seems to me that it would be easier to just epoxy the trailing edges of the main gear leg fairings together rather than mess with the hinges. Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel to get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here? Thanks, Rich Crosley Palmdale, CA ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 07:31:27 PM PST US From: Charlie & Tupper England Subject: Re: RV-List: AWO to OSH via the lower 48 --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England Wheeler North wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North > >Folks, > >I'm planning a trip that will fill the 11 days between when I leave from >NWEAA's flyin at AWO WA, which runs from 7.7-7.11, arriving at OSH on 7.22, >that will take me straight across from WA to Maine, then down the right >coast to FL, then west to the grand ole river, and back up to OSH. The idea >here is to zigzag a little and land on every state in the lower 48 this >summer. > >So far I've managed to find a few airports using aopa's search engine that >include camping and a restaurant on the airport, or one close by. Are there >any recommendations from y'all on good choices for overnight stays that are >either close to the borders or the coasts. > >I'm aiming for 3 to 7 states per day (you folks on the right side aren't >much in to elbow room and wide open spaces). Obviously WX will make for some >real time changes to the itineary... so any advice on east coast WX rules, >ie better in the morning, etc... > >Also, is it true that RI has only 6 airports and they all have landing fees? >That's a rough deal to be from there. > >Another question is the rules for the SW Maine TFR. Is it a no fly TFR like >the DC area or is it like a class B when hot? The sectional seems to >indicate a big white 30mn area. > >Any other thoughts or tidbits, or anybody want to form up (very loosely) and >fly a few legs kick me an email offlist. wnorth@sdccd.net > >W > >do not archive > Hi Wheeler, Here at Slobovia Outernational we have air conditioned indoor camping, complete with beds & showers, and the self contained restaurant is always open. ;-) Seriously, we have a couple of empty bedrooms (with hangar space for RV size planes) & welcome visitors any time we are home. (See Doug Reeves' hospitality site for more info.) We are just north of Jackson MS & the route from here to OSH will take you over the Mighty Mississippi several times, passing just a few miles west of Memphis & within about 40 miles of St Louis. Email me off list if you think you would like to visit. Charlie (-7 in the oven) ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 07:46:42 PM PST US From: "Pat Hatch" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" Rich, At least on a -6/-7, you do not have to remover the wheels or the wheel pants to remove the hinge pin, I doubt on an -8 if you'll have any problems removing them either. You will need to remove the fairings if they wear out or get damaged, also to do maintenance on your brake lines, etc. It is really easy to install the hinges, I would recommend that you do it that way. Pat Hatch RV-4 RV-6 RV-7 Finishing Kit Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich Crosley" Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings > --> RV-List message posted by: "Rich Crosley" > > It seems to me that it would be easier to just epoxy the trailing edges of > the main gear leg fairings together rather than mess with the hinges. > Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would > you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel to > get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here? > > > Thanks, > > Rich Crosley > Palmdale, CA > > ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 08:03:22 PM PST US From: "Gabe A Ferrer" Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" Don't know about an RV8. But on my RV6 I like to be able to inspect the Gear Legs. I made a removable cuff to transition from the gear leg to the wheel cover. It's easy to remove the hinge pin after removing the cuff. Gabe A Ferrer RV6 N2GX 112 hours South Florida Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net Cell: 561 758 8894 Night Phone: 561 622 0960 Fax: 561 622 0960 ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 08:15:51 PM PST US From: Vanremog@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Corrosion of gear legs vs Gear leg Stiffners vs were legs primed... --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com In a message dated 5/10/2004 2:09:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time, dcarter@datarecall.net writes: An aluminum air filter body (in-line on my shop air compressor/tank) was powder coated at the factory and corroded through and blew out. Based on that single data point, powder coating seems worthless as a corrosion resisting treatment. ============================= I've explained this fact numerous times on the list, without garnering much interest. GV (RV-6A N1GV flying 690 hrs) Not all questions or values which human beings find worth pursuing and committing themselves to can be approached scientifically. There can be no doubt that scientific theories fulfill a vital human need. But so do nonscientific theories, whether they be in the field of cosmology or religion, art, morality, knowledge or even science. ---Robert Todd Carroll ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 08:27:04 PM PST US From: "Larry Pardue" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" > --> RV-List message posted by: "Rich Crosley" > > It seems to me that it would be easier to just epoxy the trailing edges of > the main gear leg fairings together rather than mess with the hinges. > Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would > you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel to > get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here? > Well, I'm not sure how often it would come up, but I do like to be able to get to the brake lines. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://n5lp.net ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 08:27:51 PM PST US From: "Randy Lervold" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" > It seems to me that it would be easier to just epoxy the trailing edges of > the main gear leg fairings together rather than mess with the hinges. > Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would > you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel to > get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here? > > Thanks, > Rich Crosley > Palmdale, CA Rich, I did exactly that and it worked just fine... http://www.rv-8.com/Fairings.htm Randy Lervold RV-8, 368 hrs, sold RV-3B, empennage ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 08:36:50 PM PST US From: "JOHN STARN" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich Crosley" Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings > Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would > you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel to > get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here? #1: Visual inspection at "conditional/annual" time. #2: If you hit a large bird in flight with the "glued" seam can/will "pop" open and the faring will leave. #3: Having to cut them off, re-glue & re-paint IF anything goes wrong, breaks and/or springs a leak. #4: Having glued them together the first time and having removed them at least five times. On HRII N561FS (the second set) we used the hinge BUT riveted/glassed one side and installed 4 nut plates on the other. Used screws from the "back" side. Removal is done without pulling the hinge pins in a couple minutes. We take off the screw/nutplate mounted upper faring, split the seam & slide the leg faring up and out. Yes, Virigina if you hit a bird the faring can/will leave. Personal observation. Do Not Archive. KABONG (GBA) (GB GWB) 8*) ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 09:25:17 PM PST US From: "thomas a. sargent" Subject: Re: RV-List: Unleaded 100 Octane --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" I think 100-NoLead probably is possible, but I don't think the metal additives are the reason for the real threat to 100LL. The problem, as I understand it, is that 100LL is, by comparison a very small part of the gasoline market and the oil refiners just don't want to bother with it. Very few refineries (8 as of a year or 2 ago) still make the stuff. If some one can correct me on this, please do. I have an IO360-B2B which will get hung on my plane next month. I'd sure like to know that I'll have a source of 100 oct. fuel for it well into the future. -- Tom Sargent - RV-6A, Landing Gear. Donald Mei wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" > >Dear All, > >There is continuous discussion of "the demise of 100ll". I was recently >refered to this info by a mutual car nut. If Sunoco can get 100 Oct without >any "metal additives", whats to prevent the same thing from replacing 100 >LL. > > > ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 09:39:32 PM PST US From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" Another observation from one who has had my gear leg fairings off more times than I care to divulge! #1) If the tabs at the top that hold the thing to the gear ever break (and they do sometimes), you'll need to get the fairing off to fix them. #2) You don't have to remove the wheel to get the pin out. #3) If you fly in snow deeper than 2-3", then the fairings get trashed at the bottom (I know this from experience and now remove them in the winter when flying out of our snowy grass strip). #4) If I ever need to work on the break lines I can. They really aren't that hard to get on and off, and like another listed posted, repairing them is MUCH easier if they're not glued permanently on. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rich Crosley Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Main Gear Leg Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "Rich Crosley" It seems to me that it would be easier to just epoxy the trailing edges of the main gear leg fairings together rather than mess with the hinges. Besides not being able to remove them, what's the disadvantage? Why would you want to remove them? It looks like you will have to remove the wheel to get the hinge pin in and out anyway. What am I missing here? Thanks, Rich Crosley Palmdale, CA