Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:19 AM - Re: "Frozen" Screws (Dave Mader)
2. 06:30 AM - Re: "Frozen" Screws (BRUCE GRAY)
3. 06:42 AM - Re: "Frozen" Screws (Chris W)
4. 08:22 AM - Preview plans.. (copperhead)
5. 08:39 AM - Re: "Frozen" Screws (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
6. 08:53 AM - Re: "Frozen" Screws (SportAV8R@aol.com)
7. 08:55 AM - Wish List (YonderRDC@aol.com)
8. 08:56 AM - Re: "Frozen" Screws (SportAV8R@aol.com)
9. 09:18 AM - Gear leg/socket drilling (Sandifer Eric)
10. 09:54 AM - Re: Preview plans.. (Jeff Cours)
11. 02:08 PM - Re: What would your perfect EHSI look like? (Ken Harrill)
12. 03:46 PM - help! wing spar anomaly (Ford Frazier)
13. 04:44 PM - Re: help! wing spar anomaly (Stein Bruch)
14. 05:58 PM - Re: help! wing spar anomaly (Richard E. Tasker)
15. 06:00 PM - Re: help! wing spar anomaly (Charlie England)
16. 06:03 PM - Re: "Frozen" Screws (Ronnie Brown)
17. 06:59 PM - Re: help! wing spar anomaly (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
18. 08:22 PM - Re:Gear leg/socket drilling (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
19. 09:44 PM - Re: What would your perfect EHSI look like? (Robin Wessel)
20. 09:44 PM - (Robin Wessel)
21. 10:12 PM - Re: What would your perfect EHSI look like? (Robin Wessel)
22. 10:12 PM - (Robin Wessel)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
After much indecision on my first 6A I went with torx stainless to attach my
fuel tanks.
I didn't worry too much about paint sticking because I kind of like the
contrast of un-
painted fasteners used on wing-tips, fairings, etc. After painting the
wings and fuel
tanks separately and then assembling them they looked exactly
like.........pop-rivets!
Decided to go with the phillips!
Dave Mader
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Holyoke
Subject: RE: RV-List: "Frozen" Screws
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
The torx screws in question are stainless and are not as strong as the
cad plated steel ones. I asked Van's if there would be a problem using
those screws in the place of the Phillips screws supplied with the kit.
Their reply was that there was no structural reason not to, but that
they haven't had any problems with the Phillips screws and, that since
you'd probably never have to pull the fuel tanks off anyway, you
wouldn't ever strip the heads on them and if you did, they'd be cheap
enough to replace. Stainless screws would also be harder to stick paint
to. I'm undecided still.
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: RE: RV-List: "Frozen" Screws
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
I guess a related question might be are there places
on the plans that show the use of phillips screws for
structural fastening? I'm not aware of any, but...
Mickey
>I'm interested. Are the torx screws that microfastener sells weaker
>than normal Phillips heads? I'd planned on using these in a few places
>and wasn't aware that they weren't as strong.
>>Be careful about the torx or even the square hole screws as they are
>>generally not as strong as phillips head screws. ...
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
==
==
==
==
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
I have heard in the big industry that mechanics have used bo-lube. The stuff
for your drill bites.
>From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: "Frozen" Screws
>Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 17:05:56 -0600 0.3 FROM_HAS_MIXED_NUMS
>From: contains numbers mixed in with letters
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
>On occassion I find screws (#8 particularly) that stick and refuse to the
>removed...some so bad they have to be drilled out.
>
>I just finished my annual condition inspection and found three of the
>frozen
>screws...I replaced them (and others that were removed to open inspection
>plates, fairings, etc) with new stainless screws and put a dab of grease
>on
>the threads, hoping it will prevent screws from freeziing in their nut
>plates.
>
>I wondered: Would Torx-head screws be a better bet? The Phillips heads
>seem
>to simply 'ream out' too readily.
>
>What has worked for you?
>
>John
>
>
it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: "Frozen" Screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
A while back another RV list member posted that he runs a set screws
with a good lubricant into the nut plates before he puts the flat head
screw in. The reasoning behind this is that set screws are made to
tighter thread fit standard and they will "loosen" up the fit in the nut
plate just enough that the screw will go in a little easier and there
will be less of a chance of breaking heads off. I haven't tried this
myself but it seems like a sound plan to me.
Chris W.
--
Bring Back the HP 15C
http://hp15c.org:8080
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "copperhead" <copperhead@tcmax.net>
Ross,
I appreciate the offer to trade for the plans, however, I made a really good
deal for some spare -9 parts. I was really amazed at the number of e-mails
I got offering spares for various models and never realized there would be that
many parts left over... :-)
I also had a guy who dontated a several yards of nomex so the "little" woman
could sew me up as suit as he said from the content of my first post I'd probably
need, although I am not certain what he meant by that.
Chuck in Missouri # 90662
99.9% to go
(got the box open...OMG, this thing is in little pieces)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: "Frozen" Screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 5/11/04 6:12:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
n1cxo320@salidaco.com writes:
> I wondered: Would Torx-head screws be a better bet? The Phillips heads
> seem
> to simply 'ream out' too readily.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I used the SS torx from Microfasteners for almost everything- tanks, baggage
floor & side skins, rear glass, wheel pants & all fairings. The #15 bit is
your overtorque device as it will snap before the head strips, at least that is
what happened to the one screw out of hundreds that I ran up too tightly with
my cordless drill. Wouldn't trade 'em for Phillips for all the chea in
Tina...
SCREW Phillips screws at The PossumWorks in TN
Mark PHILLIPS
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: "Frozen" Screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
In a message dated 5/12/2004 1:44:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time, bicyclop@pacbell.net
writes:
> since
> you'd probably never have to pull the fuel tanks off
> anyway, you
> wouldn't ever strip the heads on them
Don't bet on it. My tanks have been off twice in the 6 years I've had my 6A flying.
Once to fix leaks, once to replace a sunken float on the Van's resistive
fuel level sender.
I use all SS screws as replacements for the cad-plated ones; they may be less strong
but seem more resistant to getting buggered up in the removal process, and
stay nice and shiny when unpainted. Fuel lube in use for a thread lubricant,
tho' toilet bowl wax sounds perfect for the job, too.
BTW, I would have thought that holding the fuel tank on was a "structural" application.
Bill B / "Stormy"
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: YonderRDC@aol.com
Thanks for those who sent a message RE: my new shop wish list....There are
some clever folks out there...Lots of good ideas to think about.
David Ward
RV-8 wannabe( by July 4th....emp)
Do not Archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: "Frozen" Screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
In a message dated 5/12/2004 9:32:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net
writes:
> The reasoning behind this is that set screws are made to
> tighter thread fit standard and they will "loosen" up the fit in the nut
> plate just enough that the screw will go in a little easier
> and there
> will be less of a chance of breaking heads off.
Thread tap works well here, carefully used so as not to over do it and remove the
locking grip of the plate nuts. Mandatory on #6 nut plates, and a good idea
on the larger ones, too.
-Stormy
Message 9
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| Subject: | Gear leg/socket drilling |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sandifer Eric <Eric.Sandifer@siemens.com>
Hello,
I have ordered a new RV-3 engine mount and gear legs from Vans and am
looking for any advice/experience with drilling the retainer bolt hole
through the gear leg and socket. Seems this procedure would apply to the -4
and -6 as well. Any info regarding what kind of bit, drill, technique used
would be helpful. Anyone have a good way of aligning and clamping the gear
legs securely before drilling?
Thanks for any help anyone has to offer,
Eric Sandifer
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Preview plans.. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
copperhead wrote:
> (got the box open...OMG, this thing is in little pieces)
Put 'em in little boxes, with labels. You'll still have a garage full of
little pieces, but it'll look a lot neater. It's more efficient, too,
since you can lose all your AN470AD4-5 rivets at one go instead of one
at a time. :-)
Welcome to the hobby!
- Jeff C.
Message 11
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| Subject: | What would your perfect EHSI look like? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Harrill <KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us>
Doug,
I agree with Doug Rozendaal 100%. I would like to see a simple to use
electronic HSI. It needs to display Nav information from a Nav/Comm and a
GPS (not at the same time). We have some good autopilot chooses that are
stand alone. I don't see any advantage to interconnecting the two. Moving
map info is displayed very well in the avionics stack and does not need to
be included in the HSI. A bug showing ground track would be nice.
Otherwise, keep it simple.
Ken Harrill
RV-6 w/ D10
300+ hours
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Doug,
I would like a system that is simple. Few if any more "front end" features
than a steam gauge HSI.
As for the features embedded in the system to talk with other equipment, I
am not an avionics engineer, but it looks like you have some good equipment
interface comments here from others.
Airplanes are becoming too "feature rich" I fly with too many pilots who
make flying more difficult, not simpler, by trying to use the "features" in
all the magic they paid good money for.
This is a serious problem in our industry. The FAA has just announced a
rewrite of the Inst. Rating Practical Test Standards to address this, but
the FAA is still concerned as are the airframe manufacturers.
All the features that are available can add utility to an airplane, but the
problem is, they add workload too. Many IFR pleasure pilots that I see are
marginally current at best. For this crowd, they should be turning the toys
off when they fly IFR, not looking for more "features" to fiddle with. You
cannot install experience in the panel.
The VFR folks have no need for most of the toys they have and spend time
fiddling with them when they should be looking outside.
Sorry folks, but I get to fly in lots of airplanes with lots of pilots and
this is a widespread problem.
I vote for a simple system that works well and has a fair price like the
D-10.
Standing by with my asbestos underwear ;-)
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
RV-4 with too many toys.....
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmedema@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: What would your perfect EHSI look like?
> --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>
> Hello listers,
>
> Have you ever thought that, given the chance, you could design avionics
better than what is presently available. Well heres your chance! We are in
the very early stages of defining our future EHSI product. Our only
constraint is that it is the same physical format as our current EFIS-D10
with regards to display and user interface. While we certainly have our own
ideas of what will make a great instrument, we would really like to have
yours as well. So .
>
> What features does it have to have to be a useful addition to your panel?
> What features would be nice additions?
> What display formats do you want to see available? 60 degree arc? 360
degrees? Others?
> What does it have to interface with? GPS only? NAV radios? Marker
Beacons?
> Would the HSI display be a good place to include an autopilot interface or
would you prefer a dedicated autopilot head?
>
> Were not making any promises that well design the instrument of your
personal dreams, but without your input, we most likely wont make your
perfect instrument. So dream away, warm up your keyboard, and send us an
email. My direct email address here at Dynon is
doug.medema@dynonavionics.com.
>
> Thanks for your interest.
>
> Doug Medema
> Dynon Avionics
> RV-6A N276DM
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | help! wing spar anomaly |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ford Frazier" <fordfrazier@earthlink.net>
Fellow builders:
I have been list-lurking for almost two years while toiling away on my
(very) slow-build RV7. Your experienced council to others has helped
immensely, but I've finally encountered a situation I have not seen
addressed and I need the one thing I know there is no shortage of
here...advice and opinions!
While attempting to cleco the skins to my wing skeletons I was unable to get
the prepunched skin holes to align on the bottom of the left wing. Either
they aligned with the main spar flange and nothing else or they aligned with
the ribs and rear spar but not the main spar flange. After many
conversations with Vans and various bouts of disassembly and measurement,
the cause has been isolated to the left main spar lower flange bend out of
spec. The result is that the flange is too narrow, which has the effect of
locating the prepunched holes too far forward relative to the spar web and
thusly all the other prepunched holes in the structure as well. The error is
approximately .033in. which translates to just over 1/2 prepunched hole
diameter off. I have posted a photo at
www.planespotter.com/images/spar&rib.jpg to illustrate.
The solutions Van's has proposed are to 1) remove the ribs, cut off their
flanges, reposition them to align with the spar flange and use aluminum
angle to create new rib flanges, and 2) leave the ribs as they are, cleco
the skins to the ribs and drill out the mis-aligned spar flange holes,
adding a doubler behind the spar flange for strength.
Here are the problems I see: In addition to being a lot of work and having
the potential to produce even more errors, no.1 would introduce a slight
change of camber into the wing cross section. No. 2 would be simpler, but
would introduce a mis-alignment into all of the inspection panels. Perhaps
more importantly, neither solution addresses the fact that the problem will
manifest itself again in a big way when I attempt to fit the leading edges
and fuel tanks. Is my analysis accurate and have I missed anything?
Here are my thoughts: I've gotten accustomed to workarounds on this
project, but this is testing my resolve. When I hear about all the guys
clecoing an airplane together right out of the box, I do not feel blessed to
be the one in three thousand that got a bum wing spar. Frankly, I can screw
this project up just fine all by myself. In my heart of hearts I think I
should get a new spar; after all the reason we pay the big bucks for the
Phlogiston pre-built spar is so this most important of all structures is
built correctly. Am I being unreasonable? (my long suffering wife feels
that in light of the amount of work this has set me back - I'm pretty slow
after all - I should get a free quickbuild wing, but I won't go there).
This is where I need advice, opinions, and a reality check. Yes, I know
that this is a great airplane, but all I ask is that all you guys who think
Vans can do no wrong (you know who you are) pause a moment and put yourself
in my place. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Fraternally - Ford
Message 13
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| Subject: | help! wing spar anomaly |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Here's the one instance where there is actually a very simple solution IHMO.
If in fact Van's claims it's a spar that is "bent out of spec", then it
needs to be replaced. I'd force them to send me a new spar. Slicing all
the ribs apart, et.al is a messy proposition. On top of that you have no
idea what the "downstream" effects may arise because of it. Adding material
adds weight, so that option also is less than desireable. If you're going
to go through all the work to make that one fit, I'd make a new one from
Van's fit in it's place.
Just my 2 cents.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ford Frazier
Subject: RV-List: help! wing spar anomaly
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ford Frazier" <fordfrazier@earthlink.net>
Fellow builders:
I have been list-lurking for almost two years while toiling away on my
(very) slow-build RV7. Your experienced council to others has helped
immensely, but I've finally encountered a situation I have not seen
addressed and I need the one thing I know there is no shortage of
here...advice and opinions!
While attempting to cleco the skins to my wing skeletons I was unable to get
the prepunched skin holes to align on the bottom of the left wing. Either
they aligned with the main spar flange and nothing else or they aligned with
the ribs and rear spar but not the main spar flange. After many
conversations with Vans and various bouts of disassembly and measurement,
the cause has been isolated to the left main spar lower flange bend out of
spec. The result is that the flange is too narrow, which has the effect of
locating the prepunched holes too far forward relative to the spar web and
thusly all the other prepunched holes in the structure as well. The error is
approximately .033in. which translates to just over 1/2 prepunched hole
diameter off. I have posted a photo at
www.planespotter.com/images/spar&rib.jpg to illustrate.
The solutions Van's has proposed are to 1) remove the ribs, cut off their
flanges, reposition them to align with the spar flange and use aluminum
angle to create new rib flanges, and 2) leave the ribs as they are, cleco
the skins to the ribs and drill out the mis-aligned spar flange holes,
adding a doubler behind the spar flange for strength.
Here are the problems I see: In addition to being a lot of work and having
the potential to produce even more errors, no.1 would introduce a slight
change of camber into the wing cross section. No. 2 would be simpler, but
would introduce a mis-alignment into all of the inspection panels. Perhaps
more importantly, neither solution addresses the fact that the problem will
manifest itself again in a big way when I attempt to fit the leading edges
and fuel tanks. Is my analysis accurate and have I missed anything?
Here are my thoughts: I've gotten accustomed to workarounds on this
project, but this is testing my resolve. When I hear about all the guys
clecoing an airplane together right out of the box, I do not feel blessed to
be the one in three thousand that got a bum wing spar. Frankly, I can screw
this project up just fine all by myself. In my heart of hearts I think I
should get a new spar; after all the reason we pay the big bucks for the
Phlogiston pre-built spar is so this most important of all structures is
built correctly. Am I being unreasonable? (my long suffering wife feels
that in light of the amount of work this has set me back - I'm pretty slow
after all - I should get a free quickbuild wing, but I won't go there).
This is where I need advice, opinions, and a reality check. Yes, I know
that this is a great airplane, but all I ask is that all you guys who think
Vans can do no wrong (you know who you are) pause a moment and put yourself
in my place. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Fraternally - Ford
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: help! wing spar anomaly |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
I would agree. If Van's says it is bent out of spec, then I think you
are entitled to a new spar. I suspect that the problem Van's is having,
assuming that your RV7 is designed the same as the RV9 (which I am
building), is that the two main spars and the center section are a
matched set. So replacing a single spar is not really an option - they
would have to replace both spars and the center section.
Nonetheless, you have paid for complete correct spars and that is what
you should have. These kits are sold as matched hole designs and the
holes do match if the parts are correct. With minor exceptions... I
know on my plane the outer main ribs had one hole that was off about
1/4" - easily remedied. But the main spar!!! Get new replacements!
My $0.02.
Let us know what happens.
Dick Tasker
Stein Bruch wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
>Here's the one instance where there is actually a very simple solution IHMO.
>
>If in fact Van's claims it's a spar that is "bent out of spec", then it
>needs to be replaced. I'd force them to send me a new spar. Slicing all
>the ribs apart, et.al is a messy proposition. On top of that you have no
>idea what the "downstream" effects may arise because of it. Adding material
>adds weight, so that option also is less than desireable. If you're going
>to go through all the work to make that one fit, I'd make a new one from
>Van's fit in it's place.
>
>Just my 2 cents.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6's, Minneapolis.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ford Frazier
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: help! wing spar anomaly
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ford Frazier" <fordfrazier@earthlink.net>
>
>Fellow builders:
>
>I have been list-lurking for almost two years while toiling away on my
>(very) slow-build RV7. Your experienced council to others has helped
>immensely, but I've finally encountered a situation I have not seen
>addressed and I need the one thing I know there is no shortage of
>here...advice and opinions!
>
>While attempting to cleco the skins to my wing skeletons I was unable to get
>the prepunched skin holes to align on the bottom of the left wing. Either
>they aligned with the main spar flange and nothing else or they aligned with
>the ribs and rear spar but not the main spar flange. After many
>conversations with Vans and various bouts of disassembly and measurement,
>the cause has been isolated to the left main spar lower flange bend out of
>spec. The result is that the flange is too narrow, which has the effect of
>locating the prepunched holes too far forward relative to the spar web and
>thusly all the other prepunched holes in the structure as well. The error is
>approximately .033in. which translates to just over 1/2 prepunched hole
>diameter off. I have posted a photo at
>www.planespotter.com/images/spar&rib.jpg to illustrate.
>
>The solutions Van's has proposed are to 1) remove the ribs, cut off their
>flanges, reposition them to align with the spar flange and use aluminum
>angle to create new rib flanges, and 2) leave the ribs as they are, cleco
>the skins to the ribs and drill out the mis-aligned spar flange holes,
>adding a doubler behind the spar flange for strength.
>
>Here are the problems I see: In addition to being a lot of work and having
>the potential to produce even more errors, no.1 would introduce a slight
>change of camber into the wing cross section. No. 2 would be simpler, but
>would introduce a mis-alignment into all of the inspection panels. Perhaps
>more importantly, neither solution addresses the fact that the problem will
>manifest itself again in a big way when I attempt to fit the leading edges
>and fuel tanks. Is my analysis accurate and have I missed anything?
>
>Here are my thoughts: I've gotten accustomed to workarounds on this
>project, but this is testing my resolve. When I hear about all the guys
>clecoing an airplane together right out of the box, I do not feel blessed to
>be the one in three thousand that got a bum wing spar. Frankly, I can screw
>this project up just fine all by myself. In my heart of hearts I think I
>should get a new spar; after all the reason we pay the big bucks for the
>Phlogiston pre-built spar is so this most important of all structures is
>built correctly. Am I being unreasonable? (my long suffering wife feels
>that in light of the amount of work this has set me back - I'm pretty slow
>after all - I should get a free quickbuild wing, but I won't go there).
>
>This is where I need advice, opinions, and a reality check. Yes, I know
>that this is a great airplane, but all I ask is that all you guys who think
>Vans can do no wrong (you know who you are) pause a moment and put yourself
>in my place. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
>
>Fraternally - Ford
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: help! wing spar anomaly |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Ford Frazier wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ford Frazier" <fordfrazier@earthlink.net>
>
>Fellow builders:
>
>I have been list-lurking for almost two years while toiling away on my
>(very) slow-build RV7. Your experienced council to others has helped
>immensely, but I've finally encountered a situation I have not seen
>addressed and I need the one thing I know there is no shortage of
>here...advice and opinions!
>
>While attempting to cleco the skins to my wing skeletons I was unable to get
>the prepunched skin holes to align on the bottom of the left wing. Either
>they aligned with the main spar flange and nothing else or they aligned with
>the ribs and rear spar but not the main spar flange. After many
>conversations with Vans and various bouts of disassembly and measurement,
>the cause has been isolated to the left main spar lower flange bend out of
>spec. The result is that the flange is too narrow, which has the effect of
>locating the prepunched holes too far forward relative to the spar web and
>thusly all the other prepunched holes in the structure as well. The error is
>approximately .033in. which translates to just over 1/2 prepunched hole
>diameter off. I have posted a photo at
>www.planespotter.com/images/spar&rib.jpg to illustrate.
>
>The solutions Van's has proposed are to 1) remove the ribs, cut off their
>flanges, reposition them to align with the spar flange and use aluminum
>angle to create new rib flanges, and 2) leave the ribs as they are, cleco
>the skins to the ribs and drill out the mis-aligned spar flange holes,
>adding a doubler behind the spar flange for strength.
>
>Here are the problems I see: In addition to being a lot of work and having
>the potential to produce even more errors, no.1 would introduce a slight
>change of camber into the wing cross section. No. 2 would be simpler, but
>would introduce a mis-alignment into all of the inspection panels. Perhaps
>more importantly, neither solution addresses the fact that the problem will
>manifest itself again in a big way when I attempt to fit the leading edges
>and fuel tanks. Is my analysis accurate and have I missed anything?
>
>Here are my thoughts: I've gotten accustomed to workarounds on this
>project, but this is testing my resolve. When I hear about all the guys
>clecoing an airplane together right out of the box, I do not feel blessed to
>be the one in three thousand that got a bum wing spar. Frankly, I can screw
>this project up just fine all by myself. In my heart of hearts I think I
>should get a new spar; after all the reason we pay the big bucks for the
>Phlogiston pre-built spar is so this most important of all structures is
>built correctly. Am I being unreasonable? (my long suffering wife feels
>that in light of the amount of work this has set me back - I'm pretty slow
>after all - I should get a free quickbuild wing, but I won't go there).
>
>This is where I need advice, opinions, and a reality check. Yes, I know
>that this is a great airplane, but all I ask is that all you guys who think
>Vans can do no wrong (you know who you are) pause a moment and put yourself
>in my place. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
>
>Fraternally - Ford
>
Cosidering the labor invested so far, I wouldn't hesitate to start
negotiations by asking for a qb wing. Go for it.
Charlie
(now you've got *me* worried. I've already had to return a main rib that
was formed incorrectly because it moved in the tooling.)
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
I have been using the Microfastener #8 Torx screws for the past year in my Velocity.
My cowls have been off at least a dozen times in the past year with good
success with these screws.
They work great, I have yet to strip one - or break a head off. The original ones
that they sent out were T20's and there was not enough metal left between
the bottom of the torx socket and the tapered head. They sent me a whole new
set of T15's FREE!!!
I have discovered that you don't use a fast electric drill - what happens is the
threads get hot and will "freeze".
After changing to a cheap/slow electric screw driver, I have not had any more problems
with Frozen Screws.
Ronnie Brown
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: help! wing spar anomaly |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
I would suggest it is in your (and Van's!) best interest to have someone from
Aurora personally inspect the condition you (and Van's!) have deemed to be a
possibly defective component before you (the customer!!!!!!) goes to great
pains to correct a condition apparently NOT of your own
making.........................
FWIW From the PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips -6A, 70+ hours and do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re:Gear leg/socket drilling |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I used a 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" steel angle clamped to both axles , to keep the gear
legs in place while drilling. There should be NO toe-in/toe-out. Clamp each
axle in the "V" with "C" clamps while drilling the bolt holes.
I used a Cobalt drill bit for drilling. Turn it slow , with much pressure. I
looped a small chain around the mount tubes : used a steel bar across the
drill handle , and hooked the bar end in a loop in the chain ( A real "Rube
Goldberg" drill press). Get "Rapid Tap " drilling fluid from a good auto parts
store or machine shop to lubricate the drill while drilling. I had to sharpen the
bit a few times,too.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 19
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| Subject: | RE: What would your perfect EHSI look like? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel@verizon.net>
I would agree to with the desire for a simple electronic version of an HSI.
Surprisingly, the $15,000 BMA EFIS does not support this functionality (not
sure about Sierra and GRT has announced an ARINC429 interface box for an
additional $500).
For example in order to get HSI functionality on a BMA system along with a
Garmin 430 or CNX80 you have to buy a $1,500 external mechanical CDI/OBS to
drive the resolver. Yes, you can use an SL-30 NAV/COM with their system but
you still need an external CDI/OBS for the GPS. BTW, OBS functionality is
very useful for both IFR and VFR flying. If you are cleared to land straight
in on RWY30 at an unfamiliar airport and you are 5 miles out you can
instantly dial a 300deg bearing to intercept the extended centerline.
Let's hope that Dynon can actually make a simple electronic HSI that can
support either analog SIN/COS rotor or digital ARINC 429 resolver input. My
hunch is that this is a non trivial effort. Having to buy a $1,500 CDI/OBS
to go along with a potential $2,500 DYNON EHSI may make the solution much
less appealing.
Robin Wessel
RV-10 wings
Tigard, OR
Subject:
RE: What would your perfect EHSI look like?
From:
Ken Harrill (
<mailto:KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us?subject=RE:%20What%20would%20your%20perfect
%20EHSI%20look%20like?&replyto=200405122105.i4CL5Gr23243@matronics.com>
KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us)
Date:
Wed May 12 - 2:08 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Harrill <KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us
<mailto:KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us?subject=RE:%20What%20would%20your%20perfect
%20EHSI%20look%20like?&replyto=200405122105.i4CL5Gr23243@matronics.com> >
Doug,
I agree with Doug Rozendaal 100%. I would like to see a simple to use
electronic HSI. -snip
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel@verizon.net>
I would agree to with the desire for a simple electronic version of an HSI.
Surprisingly, the $15,000 BMA EFIS does not support this functionality (not
sure about Sierra and GRT has announced an ARINC429 interface box for an
additional $500).
For example in order to get HSI functionality on a BMA system along with a
Garmin 430 or CNX80 you have to buy a $1,500 external mechanical CDI/OBS to
drive the resolver. Yes, you can use an SL-30 NAV/COM with their system but
you still need an external CDI/OBS for the GPS. BTW, OBS functionality is
very useful for both IFR and VFR flying. If you are cleared to land straight
in on RWY30 at an unfamiliar airport and you are 5 miles out you can
instantly dial a 300deg bearing to intercept the extended centerline.
Let's hope that Dynon can actually make a simple electronic HSI that can
support either analog SIN/COS rotor or digital ARINC 429 resolver input. My
hunch is that this is a non trivial effort. Having to buy a $1,500 CDI/OBS
to go along with a potential $2,500 DYNON EHSI may make the solution much
less appealing.
Robin Wessel
RV-10 wings
Tigard, OR
Subject:
RE: What would your perfect EHSI look like?
From:
Ken Harrill (
<mailto:KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us?subject=RE:%20What%20would%20your%20perfect
%20EHSI%20look%20like?&replyto=200405122105.i4CL5Gr23243@matronics.com>
KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us)
Date:
Wed May 12 - 2:08 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Harrill <KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us
<mailto:KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us?subject=RE:%20What%20would%20your%20perfect
%20EHSI%20look%20like?&replyto=200405122105.i4CL5Gr23243@matronics.com> >
Doug,
I agree with Doug Rozendaal 100%. I would like to see a simple to use
electronic HSI. -snip
Message 21
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| Subject: | RE: What would your perfect EHSI look like? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel@verizon.net>
I would agree to with the desire for a simple electronic version of an HSI.
Surprisingly, the $15,000 BMA EFIS does not support this functionality (not
sure about Sierra and GRT has announced an ARINC429 interface box for an
additional $500).
For example in order to get HSI functionality on a BMA system along with a
Garmin 430 or CNX80 you have to buy a $1,500 external mechanical CDI/OBS to
drive the resolver. Yes, you can use an SL-30 NAV/COM with their system but
you still need an external CDI/OBS for the GPS. BTW, OBS functionality is
very useful for both IFR and VFR flying. If you are cleared to land straight
in on RWY30 at an unfamiliar airport and you are 5 miles out you can
instantly dial a 300deg bearing to intercept the extended centerline.
Let's hope that Dynon can actually make a simple electronic HSI that can
support either analog SIN/COS rotor or digital ARINC 429 resolver input. My
hunch is that this is a non trivial effort. Having to buy a $1,500 CDI/OBS
to go along with a potential $2,500 DYNON EHSI may make the solution much
less appealing.
Robin Wessel
RV-10 wings
Tigard, OR
Subject:
RE: What would your perfect EHSI look like?
From:
Ken Harrill (
<mailto:KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us?subject=RE:%20What%20would%20your%20perfect
%20EHSI%20look%20like?&replyto=200405122105.i4CL5Gr23243@matronics.com>
KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us)
Date:
Wed May 12 - 2:08 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Harrill <KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us
<mailto:KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us?subject=RE:%20What%20would%20your%20perfect
%20EHSI%20look%20like?&replyto=200405122105.i4CL5Gr23243@matronics.com> >
Doug,
I agree with Doug Rozendaal 100%. I would like to see a simple to use
electronic HSI. -snip
Message 22
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel@verizon.net>
I would agree to with the desire for a simple electronic version of an HSI.
Surprisingly, the $15,000 BMA EFIS does not support this functionality (not
sure about Sierra and GRT has announced an ARINC429 interface box for an
additional $500).
For example in order to get HSI functionality on a BMA system along with a
Garmin 430 or CNX80 you have to buy a $1,500 external mechanical CDI/OBS to
drive the resolver. Yes, you can use an SL-30 NAV/COM with their system but
you still need an external CDI/OBS for the GPS. BTW, OBS functionality is
very useful for both IFR and VFR flying. If you are cleared to land straight
in on RWY30 at an unfamiliar airport and you are 5 miles out you can
instantly dial a 300deg bearing to intercept the extended centerline.
Let's hope that Dynon can actually make a simple electronic HSI that can
support either analog SIN/COS rotor or digital ARINC 429 resolver input. My
hunch is that this is a non trivial effort. Having to buy a $1,500 CDI/OBS
to go along with a potential $2,500 DYNON EHSI may make the solution much
less appealing.
Robin Wessel
RV-10 wings
Tigard, OR
Subject:
RE: What would your perfect EHSI look like?
From:
Ken Harrill (
<mailto:KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us?subject=RE:%20What%20would%20your%20perfect
%20EHSI%20look%20like?&replyto=200405122105.i4CL5Gr23243@matronics.com>
KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us)
Date:
Wed May 12 - 2:08 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Harrill <KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us
<mailto:KHarrill@osa.state.sc.us?subject=RE:%20What%20would%20your%20perfect
%20EHSI%20look%20like?&replyto=200405122105.i4CL5Gr23243@matronics.com> >
Doug,
I agree with Doug Rozendaal 100%. I would like to see a simple to use
electronic HSI. -snip
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