---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 05/17/04: 9 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:05 AM - Canopy sealant (John Paulich) 2. 07:12 AM - Re: Canopy sealant (Pat Hatch) 3. 08:39 AM - Re: Dimple Stressing (BRUCE GRAY) 4. 11:25 AM - RV6 Wing Kit for Sale---Cheap (Greg Grigson) 5. 05:34 PM - Tip up canopy seal (PGLong@aol.com) 6. 06:19 PM - Re: Tip up canopy seal (Alex Peterson) 7. 06:20 PM - Lycoming idler gear (Ken Beene) 8. 08:33 PM - Southwest Regional, Temple, RV-10 Pics (Tommy Norman) 9. 09:32 PM - RV-7 A-407 Aileron Bracket Help (Karie Daniel) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:05:01 AM PST US From: "John Paulich" Subject: RV-List: Canopy sealant --> RV-List message posted by: "John Paulich" Good morning. I am finishing the side and rear skirt work on my RV7. The fit along the fuselage and rivet/screw holes is tight, however, I'm still concerned about leakage down the road. I have a buddy that has built race cars suggest that I consider using Dripcheck along the rivet/screw line and a foam strip an inch or so from the trailing edge of the rear skirt. Any suggestions from those of you that have managed to stay dry? Thanks. John N121PR ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:12:05 AM PST US From: "Pat Hatch" Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy sealant --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" John, Many here on the list have used Lexel, plenty of info in the archives on it. Available in hardware stores but not all. It is a clear sealant that is applied during assembly on your rivet/screw lines. Has worked very well for me. Pat Hatch RV-4 RV-6 RV-7 Finishing Kit Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Paulich" Subject: RV-List: Canopy sealant > --> RV-List message posted by: "John Paulich" > > Good morning. I am finishing the side and rear skirt work on my RV7. The > fit along the fuselage and rivet/screw holes is tight, however, I'm still > concerned about leakage down the road. I have a buddy that has built race > cars suggest that I consider using Dripcheck along the rivet/screw line and > a foam strip an inch or so from the trailing edge of the rear skirt. Any > suggestions from those of you that have managed to stay dry? Thanks. > > John > N121PR > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 08:39:13 AM PST US From: "BRUCE GRAY" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dimple Stressing --> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" Mark, Thank you for the reply and ideas. I do not know the vintage of scrap bundle they give us. I am using the squeezers when forming the dimple and yes the clearance hole seems to be adequate for the male die. I will do both by not deburring so much and next to step the drill size up. It also has dawn to me I may not have backed the metal up enough. Meaning when drilling the hole I placed the metal over a blank hole in the shop table to minimize the swiss cheese. Thanks again, Bruce >From: Fiveonepw@aol.com >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Dimple Stressing >Date: Sat, 15 May 2004 16:07:41 EDT > >--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com > >In a message dated 5/15/04 10:10:01 AM Central Daylight Time, >brucerv84us@hotmail.com writes: > > > After doing so I noticed a > > few stress cracks coming from the dimple hole radius I.D.. > > >>>>>>>> > >How are you making your dimples- on the C-frame, squeezer or ? I usually >had >better results on the larger holes with the squeezer. Does the male die >easily slip into the hole in the skin? (no jokes, guys!) The fit should >be a >little loose, never a tight fit. (mygawd this'll never get through the >firewall!) Examine the hole carefully before dimpling for any cracks. >Also make sure >the dies are very clean, fit very well etc. Try not deburring at all as a >test- perhaps you are deburring too much. You might want to try drilling >the >correct size hole, then re-drilling with one size larger (next # lower) If >using >the C-frame, try various hammers, blow strength, number of blows. Use one >light blow at a time and examine hole each time for cracking- one hard one >may >be better that 3 little taps etc. Are the parts you're testing on 2024 >T-3? >Maybe you got a bad piece of scrap to practice on- try other pieces. You >will >need to nip this in the bud- better order more test parts 8-) > >Hope some of this helps- good luck! >Mark -6A flying... > > download! http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/ ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 11:25:38 AM PST US From: Greg Grigson Subject: RV-List: RV6 Wing Kit for Sale---Cheap --> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson I have a pre-punched Wing Kit for an RV6 or 6a for sale. Price negotiable. Contact offline. Greg Grigson iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:34:44 PM PST US From: PGLong@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Tip up canopy seal --> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com I recall reading about a "V" shaped rubber gasket seal that I could put on the bottom of the canopy with adhesive. With internal pressure the "V" would open or expand and seal the gaps even if they were uneven. Any one know where I could get something like this for my RV-4 tip up? Didn't see much in the archives. Thanks as always........ Pat Long PGLong@aol.com N120PL RV4 DONE & Waiting for FAA inspector. Bay City, Michigan 3CM Do Not Archive ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:19:38 PM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Tip up canopy seal --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > I recall reading about a "V" shaped rubber gasket seal that I > could put on > the bottom of the canopy with adhesive. With internal > pressure the "V" would > open or expand and seal the gaps even if they were uneven. > Any one know where I > could get something like this for my RV-4 tip up? Didn't see > much in the > archives. Thanks as always........ > > > Pat Long > PGLong@aol.com > N120PL > RV4 DONE & Waiting for FAA inspector. > Bay City, Michigan > 3CM Pat, There is a 3M product called V-Seal. It is made of PTFE, I believe, and is designed for doors. I think it may work well for some canopy applications. Seems like 17 feet of it cost around ten bucks. It comes rolled up and not folded yet into the V shape, so you could bend it perhaps only 60 degrees or so, for example. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 469 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:20:06 PM PST US From: "Ken Beene" Subject: RV-List: Lycoming idler gear --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Beene" I am modifying my O360 to support a low pressure engine driven fuel pump. I need to replace idler gear 74996 with 75072. Does anyone on the list have a serviceable gear for sale or trade? Thanks, Ken RV-6A N94KB RV-4 installing engine http://www.mninter.net/~kbeene/ ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:33:43 PM PST US From: "Tommy Norman" Subject: RV-List: Southwest Regional, Temple, RV-10 Pics --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Norman" I finally put up a website (slow work in progress, too busy building) and posted some pictures from the Southwest Regional Fly-in and Temple air show. I will try to update it with more useful and complete information soon. Since I am building a -10, I took plenty of pictures of 410RV. If you have not seen this beast it is huge. Check out the picture of Rusty standing by the horizontal, it stands about shoulder height. I have been worried about head clearance since I am 6' 5"+. I figured I might have to find some sort of low profile headsets. Let me tell you, this will not be a problem at all. I had about four inches above my hat when I was sitting up straight. OK enough with this computer stuff, back to the horizontal. Tommy www.vansrv10.com Frisco, TX RV-10 25TN (Reserved) ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:32:02 PM PST US From: "Karie Daniel" Subject: RV-List: RV-7 A-407 Aileron Bracket Help --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" Hi all, I'm attaching the A-407 (inboard aileron bracket) to the aileron. I have QB wings, ailerons and flaps so you would think it's a slam dunk. The problem is that the A-407 bracket has three attach points for AN-3 bolts and there are three holes in the aileron spar where the bracket attaches. There are also two smaller pre-drilled and countersunk holes on either side of the center hole where the bracket goes. It looks like this is where a nutplate was supposed to go but the plans clearly show and call for an AN-3 bolt. I would just pound a few an426ad3-3's and move on but nothing is getting riveted in these holes, there isn't any room. Does anyone know what you are supposed to do with these holes. I can send a digital pic if you would like to see what I'm talking about. Thanks, Karie Daniel RV-7A QB Sammamish, WA