Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:02 AM - RV Tool kit (Lapsley R & Sandra E. Caldwell)
2. 06:54 AM - Re: Dan "Sharpie" Checkoway's new movie.... (BBreckenridge@att.net)
3. 07:32 AM - Re: Dan "Sharpie" Checkoway's new movie.... (Charles Rowbotham)
4. 09:06 AM - cleaning out the shop (Frazier, Vincent A)
5. 12:39 PM - Re: RV-7 A-407 Aileron Bracket Help (Jim Brown)
6. 04:38 PM - Re: help! wing spar anomaly (Ford Frazier)
7. 05:58 PM - GNS 430 cockpit readability (tcolson)
8. 06:30 PM - GNS 430 cockpit readability (Gabe A Ferrer)
9. 06:40 PM - Canopy hole elongation? (Bobby Hester)
10. 06:54 PM - Re: Canopy hole elongation? (Kyle Boatright)
11. 07:07 PM - Re: GNS 430 cockpit readability (Laird Owens)
12. 07:07 PM - Re: GNS 430 cockpit readability (Doug Weiler)
13. 07:51 PM - WOW!!!! Oil temp, Stewart Warner, Pacific Oil Coolers (Dan Checkoway)
14. 08:55 PM - Duckworks Light Instructions ()
15. 09:31 PM - Re: GNS 430 cockpit readability (David Burton)
16. 09:40 PM - Re: WOW!!!! Oil temp, Stewart Warner, Pacific Oil Coolers (Randy Lervold)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Lapsley R & Sandra E. Caldwell" <caldwel@ictransnet.com>
I'm looking for a used, but serviceable Avery or Cleveland RV tool kit.
Roger Caldwell
caldwel@ictransnet.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: Dan "Sharpie" Checkoway's new movie.... |
--> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
'clip'
To see an absolutely outstanding video of Dan "Sharpie" Checkoway's second and third flight, go to: http://images.rvproject.com/movies/sharpie.wmv
'clip'
Wonderful.. Thanks Dan & Dave. You made my morning!!!
Bruce Breckenridge
RV-10 40018
Message 3
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| Subject: | Dan "Sharpie" Checkoway's new movie.... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
GREAT
Well Done !
Chuck Rowbotham
R V-8A
>From: jacklockamy@att.net
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Dan "Sharpie" Checkoway's new movie....
>Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 20:50:20 +0000
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: jacklockamy@att.net
>
>To see an absolutely outstanding video of Dan "Sharpie" Checkoway's second
>and third flight, go to: http://images.rvproject.com/movies/sharpie.wmv
>
>It is approx. 7 minutes long and worth every second! The video was filmed
>and composed by fellow SOCAL RV List builder Dave Richardson
>(www.rv-7.com). Make sure you view it in FULL SCREEN and with the sound
>turned UP! The music and synchronization are perfect.
>
>Thanks again Dan and Dave for making this very motivating video available
>to us that are "still pounding those rivets" and those flying......
>
>Enjoy,
>
>Jack Lockamy
>Camarillo, CA
>-7A canopy
>
>
Learn to simplify your finances and your life in Streamline Your Life from
Message 4
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| Subject: | cleaning out the shop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
Fellas,
I have the items listed below for your consideration. All are in used,
but usable condition unless noted otherwise. Add $5 for shipping.
Multiple items ship for the same $5. Payment by personal check is OK by
me.
Prestolite starter, p/n MZ4206R, overhauled by Certified Aircraft
Products, for use as core or install on your spam can. Fits Lycoming.
This would be a good item if you plan to buy one of the Magnaflite
starters from ACS and don't have a core laying around to eliminate the
$200 core charge. They will take this core... I asked. Make offer.
Shipping will be $15 on this heavy item.
Mechanical Fuel pump by A/C, 276V41271, good for core or if you've got a
Rocket and need to practice on a core before you modify the overflow
port on your brand new pump. To see one, check the top left of page 235
of the 2003/2004 ACS catalog. Make offer.
Right angle tach drive. ASC wants $60 for these. Similar, but not
identical, to the one on page 354 of the 2003/2004 ACS catalog. Make
offer.
Kohler K-2403-2 fuel primer pump There's a picture of one of these on
page 160 of the 2003/2004 ACS catalog. New price $189. This one is in
good condition and works perfectly. $75
Complete set of RV-8 plans The full size sheets not the preview set.
Van wants $275 for these when new. $50
Brand new Simpson Latch n Link lap and shoulder harness set See pics at
the URL below:
http://www.teamsimpson.com/catalog/restraints/latchfxbelts.asp
http://www.teamsimpson.com/catalog/restraints/33004.asp
The lap belt was professionally shortened (slightly) to remove the
excess length that we don't need in an RV. The shoulder belt is
untouched. The lap belt will fit RV bolt in brackets and the shoulder
harness can be either bolted in or wrapped around the RV-4 type rollbar.
Over $100 if purchased from Simpson $50
Flightcom IIGX portable voice activated intercom Very similar, but not
identical, to the one on page 466 of the 2003/2004 ACS catalog. $50
For an extra $10 I'll throw in two Telex push to talk switches. One has
a 4' cord, the other a 6'. All of these items are in good condition.
Used breakers one 3 amp, six 5 amp, one 10 amp, two 15 amp, and one 10
amp switch breaker. That's 11 breakers in all. $15
Van's 4" prop extension 6" diameter with matching crush plate, 3/8
bolts, marginal for use on O-320 or larger, but OK for O-290 according
to Van's Like new. $50
The first 5 buyers will receive FREE a used fuel sampler, new Van's
pitot cover, or other worthless, but too good to toss out item. Oh
yeah, we're talking great deals here (because I want this stuff OUT of
my way!)
Email replies to me, not the list. vfrazier@usi.edu
Vince Frazier
3965 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839 work
812-985-7309 home
F-1H Rocket, N540VF
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 A-407 Aileron Bracket Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Brown <acrojim@cfl.rr.com>
Karie and Dan;
I rechecked my plans to see what is shown .
On plans #13A dated 03-05-02 the middle bolt call out is for AN3-4A
Bolt; AN960-10L washer; K1000-3 platenut; and 2 X AN426AD3-4 rivets.
On the exploded view of the aileron on same page of the plans the
drawings also shows the nutplate.
We received the QB wing kit in September 2003. It would appear that
there are several different sets of plans.
Sorry for the difference in information???????????
Jim Brown
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: help! wing spar anomaly |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ford Frazier" <fordfrazier@earthlink.net>
Gentlemen!
Please forgive the group response - so many replied to my request for assistance.
I thought y'all might be interested to know that Van's has agreed to send me a
replacement spar and apologized for the hassle. I am satisfied with this solution,
and, although it means extra work for me, when you take the entire project
into consideration it will not add that much overall.
By the way , Jim Sears ... I asked about the spars being match drilled to the center
sections, and they said it's not necessary as they have successfully done
this swap on QB's that were damaged in shipping (all three models). This is
consistent with your 6A experience. In any case I can check the fit before committing
to the assembly.
I just wanted to thank you all again for your concern and suggestions.
Happy building and safe flying - Ford
Message 7
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| Subject: | GNS 430 cockpit readability |
--> RV-List message posted by: "tcolson" <tcolson@cedar-rapids.net>
I am considering the GNS 430 vs the CNX80 and want to know from those of you flying
a 430 in your RVs if screen readability is acceptable in the bright cockpit
of the RV. The 430's screen seems severely lacking in contrast compared to
either the CNX 80 or 530.
Comments?
Thanks
Tom Olson
RV6A 298TC
Message 8
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| Subject: | GNS 430 cockpit readability |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
The readability of my GNS 430 is excellent. I've flown with it for about a year,
as far as Las Cruces, NM. All in daylight. No problems.
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 114 hours
South Florida
Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Night Phone: 561 622 0960
Fax: 561 622 0960
Message 9
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RV-List <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Canopy hole elongation? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Ok, I made my cut and split the canopy/windsheild. After it was all said
and done I realized that I made the cut on the canopy side of the line.
Now it appears that the edge of the canopy is rearward about 1/16 -
3/32. I think it might be a good idea to elongate the handle hole to the
rear about that much. I did a trail on some scrap and found that it is
easy to do with a small drum sander. Is this a good way to fix this and
if so is there something I should use when done to seal the hole, to
keep water out?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy hole elongation? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Bobby,
Do you have a sliding canopy? If so, you could fill the hole with one of
the putty like epoxy products that you can find at the local hardware store.
I'd recommend doing this after you've attached the canopy to the frame
except for pulling the rivets across the top bow.. Use a piece of aluminum
tape on the inside to keep the epoxy from pushing through, then remove the
tape after the epoxy sets. When you're done, you'll cover the whole mess
with the aluminum strip that runs fore and aft across the canopy.
Shouldn't be a big problem.
Be sure to use an epoxy, not a polyester material, because polyester fillers
and resins attack plexi.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
<rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Canopy hole elongation?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
> Ok, I made my cut and split the canopy/windsheild. After it was all said
> and done I realized that I made the cut on the canopy side of the line.
> Now it appears that the edge of the canopy is rearward about 1/16 -
> 3/32. I think it might be a good idea to elongate the handle hole to the
> rear about that much. I did a trail on some scrap and found that it is
> easy to do with a small drum sander. Is this a good way to fix this and
> if so is there something I should use when done to seal the hole, to
> keep water out?
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: GNS 430 cockpit readability |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
I have a 430 in my RV and LOVE it. No issue with screen brightness
that I've seen.
Laird RV-6 950 hrs
SoCal
On May 19, 2004, at 5:54 PM, tcolson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "tcolson" <tcolson@cedar-rapids.net>
>
> I am considering the GNS 430 vs the CNX80 and want to know from those
> of you flying a 430 in your RVs if screen readability is acceptable in
> the bright cockpit of the RV. The 430's screen seems severely lacking
> in contrast compared to either the CNX 80 or 530.
>
> Comments?
>
> Thanks
> Tom Olson
> RV6A 298TC
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: GNS 430 cockpit readability |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
>
> I am considering the GNS 430 vs the CNX80 and want to know from those of
you flying a 430 in your RVs if screen readability is acceptable in the
bright cockpit of the RV. The 430's screen seems severely lacking in
contrast compared to either the CNX 80 or 530.
>
> Comments?
>
> Thanks
> Tom Olson
> RV6A 298TC
>
I don't own a 430/530 but I ride with two friends in their -6A and -7A
respectively equipped with a 430 and 530. I have never noted a readability
problem.
Doug Weiler
RV-4 being painted
Message 13
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<RV7or7A@yahoogroups.com>, <rv-list@matronics.com>,
"<lycoming@yahoogroups.com>"
<skid@oilcoolers.com>
| Subject: | WOW!!!! Oil temp, Stewart Warner, Pacific Oil Coolers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Oil temp...
FOR SALE: Used 7-row Aero Classics oil cooler model 8000075, mfr 02/03, 85
hours. One corner of the rear mounting flange has been cleanly cut away to
clear the engine mount. This oil cooler should work absolutely fine on an
O-360 or O-320. Van's sells it for $165...I will ship it (48 US) for $130
or best offer. (I will post photos of it on www.rvproject.com tonight.)
On my engine (200hp IO-360-A1B6), my oil temp has been running high since
day one. Usually around 205 in cruise at 75% best power at 55F OAT. At
lower OATs, say 45F, the oil temp would drop to 195. The biggest problem
has been in the pattern, when the airspeed drops down to 90mph or so...when
doing pattern after pattern, the oil temp would get up into the 220s easily.
This is the "big" IO-360, which I've been told generates considerably more
heat than the vastly different O-360. But for all 360 models, maximum oil
inlet temp is 245F. Some have said my "high" oil temps are acceptable, but
I really want to shoot for under 200F for the long haul. 180 to 190 would
be ideal. Interestingly, my CHTs have been nice and cool, around 330-350F.
The highest CHT I've seen is about 375F in the worst of conditions. So
baffling *probably* wasn't the problem.
After break-in, the oil temp didn't really drop too much. Maybe 10 degrees
or so on average. After break-in was done, I switched to AeroShell 15W50
multigrade oil, which is what I've always used in my other planes and love
it.
Several folks advised me to use a straight 50-weight oil such as 100W, and a
few people said that their temps actually dropped 10 degrees or more when
they switched to 100.
At my last oil change a week ago, I switched to 100W. I flew several hours
and didn't notice any improvement...in fact, I saw the opposite effect if
anything, maybe 5 degrees hotter oil temp on average.
I had heard that just about everybody with the 200hp angle valve IO-360 has
had oil temp problems with Van's "stock" oil cooler. Dan Masys, I believe,
switched to a 9-row and saw a major improvement. Well, I don't want to
reconstruct my baffles if I don't have to...so...I wanted to experiment with
what is theoretically a more efficient oil cooler at the same form factor.
I had read some reviews (thanks Randy) that the Stewart Warner oil coolers
are the most efficient ones out there at any size.
So today I broke down and drove up to Pacific Oil Coolers and bought a
Stewart Warner 8406R oil cooler. I slapped the $419 down (includes the $25
core) and bit the bullet. It's a 6-plate oil cooler, instead of a 7-row
like the Aero Classics. The Stewart Warner cooler has larger fin area due
to more space between plates. It's heavier, but it's much more durable.
The end tanks are a much beefier design. The form factor is *almost*
identical to the Aero Classics 7-row...close enough that I could just swap
'em and go. It's much more expensive, but let's see if it's worth it for my
particular setup...
This afternoon I did the swap, but I hit a snag. Van's calls out using
aluminum -8D fittings on the oil cooler as per their FWF plans. I know most
people advise using steel firewall forward, especially for fuel lines and
stuff...and I did. But this was the exception. I just blindly followed the
plans. DO NOT USE ALUMINUM FITTINGS ON YOUR OIL COOLER. I learned this the
hard way. I threaded the fittings into the new oil cooler, the threads
gauled. I even used a teflon pipe sealant paste -- the stuff that the
AeroClassics cooler had come with originally (Loctite 565, a white teflon
lube/paste). Despite that, the threads were destroyed. As I removed the
aluminum fitting from the oil cooler, the threads broke off and chewed up
the oil cooler's threads. Dag bernit!
I drove back to Pacific Oil Coolers, and they were friggin' AWESOME. Paul
got me right into a repair scenario...he had one of his techs take the
cooler and re-tap it. They told me that you should never use aluminum
fittings on an aluminum oil cooler...different grades of aluminum, different
rates of expansion/contraction, etc...not good. Wayne said that even though
the threads may look & feel fine, aluminum will gaul easily. USE STEEL
FITTINGS. After cleaning the threads and tapping it, the tech pressure
tested it to 180 psi in a water tank. After some teflon tape (they advise
to USE TEFLON TAPE, not the paste...these are the oil cooler experts here,
folks, I'm just repeating what they said) was applied to the fitting, the
leak test passed. They threw the oil cooler on their two-way cirulatory
pressure fluid cleaner for a few minutes, blew it out, and it was basically
like getting an "overhaul" on the spot. "Go upstairs and pay the lady 20
bucks." Cool! That was a bargain for an on-the-spot fix that included two
steel fittings! Anyway, an educational experience for sure. Use steel!
Pacific Oil Coolers saved my butt, took care of my walk in business, and
didn't rip me off. Good folks. http://www.oilcoolers.com
Ok...so when I got back to the airport I installed the new oil cooler,
hooked up the hoses, RTV'd the gaps, etc. I went flying (with Dave
Richardson...finally got him a ride!). I didn't have high expectations,
since the oil cooler was the same basic form factor. Pacific Oil Coolers
had said that I would probably see an improvement, and it may be a drastic
one, it may not. But they were sure I'd see an improvement.
It was dramatic.
We climbed from field elevation (650'MSL) to 8000' at 95-100 mph indicated
the whole way (I normally climb at about 125-130mph indicated). The temp
didn't go above 212F (OAT at 8000' was about 57F). Ok, could be a fluke,
just a cold start...let's see how it levelled out in cruise. Normally
before, when it would hit 220 in a climb, it would take forever to get back
down to 210 or so. Today, after levelling off, the oil temp quickly (within
a minute or two) settled down to 192. Woohoo!! That was at full throttle,
2500 RPM, leaned to within 75 of peak (on both sides).
After powering down to about 22" and 2400 RPM, it settled down around 182F.
Bitchin!
Then we flew about 3 or 4 patterns at French Valley. This would be a decent
test. For the first two patterns, it didn't go above 190. On the third, it
did go up to 210, then up to 214 on a 4000' climbout. Once levelling off at
cruise about 55-65% power, it came back down to 180. Nice, that's more like
it!
So if you're going to hang a 200hp IO-360 on your RV, I strongly advise
leaving whatever oil cooler Van's would otherwise send you out of your FWF
kit and going with the Stewart Warner. The next size up would be even
better, but I believe this 6-plate 8406R will do the job. We'll see how it
handles the worst days in summer...
Anyway, lots learned today, and I'm much happier that my engine is happy!
As I mentioned above, the old oil cooler is for sale. I think it would be a
perfectly good oil cooler on an O-360 or O-320.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
P.S. -- Van's, if you're listening...I respect that you promote using
lightweight components, but I think (a) aluminum fittings called out on the
plans is a bad idea, and (b) you shouldn't ship the 7-row Aero Classics oil
cooler with 200hp IO-360 FWF kits. I apologize in advance if my experience
is an anomaly (I don't believe so based on what I've heard from other
builders) and this recommendation is not solid.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Duckworks Light Instructions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
FYI to the group for anyone else experiencing the same...I know at least one other
person (Karie) that had the outdated instructions.
Scott
RV7A Wings
www.scottsrv7a.com
From: Don & Janet Wentz [mailto:djwentz@centurytel.net]
Subject: RE: Duckworks Lights
Hi Scott,
1. Im sorry but you must have received an old set of instructions. We have
removed that from them now. You only need to drill holes A and B and you can
position the light forward for taxiing.
2. There is no reason other than cosmetically to paint the bracket. It is really
up to you whether you want it left as is or painted. We have seen people
do a variety of things. Some paint it black, some paint it the same as their
plane color, some leave it the bare aluminum color.
Continued Good Luck on your project, I hope this answers your questions.
Sincerely,
Janet Wentz
Duckworks Exp. Aircraft Parts
50641 Firridge Ave.
Scappoose, OR 97056
503-543-3653
www.duckworksaviation.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott_Haskins@Dell.com [mailto:Scott_Haskins@Dell.com]
Subject: Duckworks Lights
I purchased the duckworks light kit, and I had a couple of questions:
1) The instructions reference drilling three holes in each rib, but the template
only shows two (A and B). I understand the third is optional. I want to be
able to position one of the lights to shine forward (level) while taxiing. Will
I be able to do this by just drilling the two holes?
2) Do you recommend priming the bracket before installing, or just leaving bare
aluminum?
Thanks,
Scott
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: GNS 430 cockpit readability |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
I think the readability of the 430 isn't an issue, but the usability might
be. If you are going to use it for IFR you might want to look at some of
the alternatives... I fly with my Garmin 195 and find that I don't use the
430 for much of anything but a radio... YMMV. The 430 is really chunky to
change or input ATC course changes on the fly. I think AOPA said in last
month's issue that over 20 million hours of general aviation was flown VFR
in the last year and only a fraction of that was flown IFR. For most use
the 430 may be fine. If you do much IFR you might consider something else.
The 530 has some features like tcas that are interesting...
I won't fly without my hand held, and for me, it's enough. The 430 is nice,
but is it worth the money? Several of my friends have thought so, and I
have one. If I was to do it over I don't think it's what I'd go with, and
I think there might be a 530 in my future.
Message 16
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<vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Re: WOW!!!! Oil temp, Stewart Warner, Pacific Oil Coolers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Dan,
Good work, and your results match my own. For those that haven't seen it I
performed a similar test which can be seen at...
http://www.rv-8.com/FirewallForward.htm
Good information on the steel fitting with the aluminum cooler, didn't know
that. You can bet I'm going to use a real Stewart Warner, and one purchased
from Pacific Oil Coolers, on my new RV-3B
Randy Lervold
> Oil temp...
>
> FOR SALE: Used 7-row Aero Classics oil cooler model 8000075, mfr 02/03,
85
> hours. One corner of the rear mounting flange has been cleanly cut away
to
> clear the engine mount. This oil cooler should work absolutely fine on an
> O-360 or O-320. Van's sells it for $165...I will ship it (48 US) for $130
> or best offer. (I will post photos of it on www.rvproject.com tonight.)
>
> On my engine (200hp IO-360-A1B6), my oil temp has been running high since
> day one. Usually around 205 in cruise at 75% best power at 55F OAT. At
> lower OATs, say 45F, the oil temp would drop to 195. The biggest problem
> has been in the pattern, when the airspeed drops down to 90mph or
so...when
> doing pattern after pattern, the oil temp would get up into the 220s
easily.
>
> This is the "big" IO-360, which I've been told generates considerably more
> heat than the vastly different O-360. But for all 360 models, maximum oil
> inlet temp is 245F. Some have said my "high" oil temps are acceptable,
but
> I really want to shoot for under 200F for the long haul. 180 to 190 would
> be ideal. Interestingly, my CHTs have been nice and cool, around
330-350F.
> The highest CHT I've seen is about 375F in the worst of conditions. So
> baffling *probably* wasn't the problem.
>
> After break-in, the oil temp didn't really drop too much. Maybe 10
degrees
> or so on average. After break-in was done, I switched to AeroShell 15W50
> multigrade oil, which is what I've always used in my other planes and love
> it.
>
> Several folks advised me to use a straight 50-weight oil such as 100W, and
a
> few people said that their temps actually dropped 10 degrees or more when
> they switched to 100.
>
> At my last oil change a week ago, I switched to 100W. I flew several
hours
> and didn't notice any improvement...in fact, I saw the opposite effect if
> anything, maybe 5 degrees hotter oil temp on average.
>
> I had heard that just about everybody with the 200hp angle valve IO-360
has
> had oil temp problems with Van's "stock" oil cooler. Dan Masys, I
believe,
> switched to a 9-row and saw a major improvement. Well, I don't want to
> reconstruct my baffles if I don't have to...so...I wanted to experiment
with
> what is theoretically a more efficient oil cooler at the same form factor.
> I had read some reviews (thanks Randy) that the Stewart Warner oil coolers
> are the most efficient ones out there at any size.
>
> So today I broke down and drove up to Pacific Oil Coolers and bought a
> Stewart Warner 8406R oil cooler. I slapped the $419 down (includes the
$25
> core) and bit the bullet. It's a 6-plate oil cooler, instead of a 7-row
> like the Aero Classics. The Stewart Warner cooler has larger fin area due
> to more space between plates. It's heavier, but it's much more durable.
> The end tanks are a much beefier design. The form factor is *almost*
> identical to the Aero Classics 7-row...close enough that I could just swap
> 'em and go. It's much more expensive, but let's see if it's worth it for
my
> particular setup...
>
> This afternoon I did the swap, but I hit a snag. Van's calls out using
> aluminum -8D fittings on the oil cooler as per their FWF plans. I know
most
> people advise using steel firewall forward, especially for fuel lines and
> stuff...and I did. But this was the exception. I just blindly followed
the
> plans. DO NOT USE ALUMINUM FITTINGS ON YOUR OIL COOLER. I learned this
the
> hard way. I threaded the fittings into the new oil cooler, the threads
> gauled. I even used a teflon pipe sealant paste -- the stuff that the
> AeroClassics cooler had come with originally (Loctite 565, a white teflon
> lube/paste). Despite that, the threads were destroyed. As I removed the
> aluminum fitting from the oil cooler, the threads broke off and chewed up
> the oil cooler's threads. Dag bernit!
>
> I drove back to Pacific Oil Coolers, and they were friggin' AWESOME. Paul
> got me right into a repair scenario...he had one of his techs take the
> cooler and re-tap it. They told me that you should never use aluminum
> fittings on an aluminum oil cooler...different grades of aluminum,
different
> rates of expansion/contraction, etc...not good. Wayne said that even
though
> the threads may look & feel fine, aluminum will gaul easily. USE STEEL
> FITTINGS. After cleaning the threads and tapping it, the tech pressure
> tested it to 180 psi in a water tank. After some teflon tape (they advise
> to USE TEFLON TAPE, not the paste...these are the oil cooler experts here,
> folks, I'm just repeating what they said) was applied to the fitting, the
> leak test passed. They threw the oil cooler on their two-way cirulatory
> pressure fluid cleaner for a few minutes, blew it out, and it was
basically
> like getting an "overhaul" on the spot. "Go upstairs and pay the lady 20
> bucks." Cool! That was a bargain for an on-the-spot fix that included
two
> steel fittings! Anyway, an educational experience for sure. Use steel!
> Pacific Oil Coolers saved my butt, took care of my walk in business, and
> didn't rip me off. Good folks. http://www.oilcoolers.com
>
> Ok...so when I got back to the airport I installed the new oil cooler,
> hooked up the hoses, RTV'd the gaps, etc. I went flying (with Dave
> Richardson...finally got him a ride!). I didn't have high expectations,
> since the oil cooler was the same basic form factor. Pacific Oil Coolers
> had said that I would probably see an improvement, and it may be a drastic
> one, it may not. But they were sure I'd see an improvement.
>
> It was dramatic.
>
> We climbed from field elevation (650'MSL) to 8000' at 95-100 mph indicated
> the whole way (I normally climb at about 125-130mph indicated). The temp
> didn't go above 212F (OAT at 8000' was about 57F). Ok, could be a fluke,
> just a cold start...let's see how it levelled out in cruise. Normally
> before, when it would hit 220 in a climb, it would take forever to get
back
> down to 210 or so. Today, after levelling off, the oil temp quickly
(within
> a minute or two) settled down to 192. Woohoo!! That was at full
throttle,
> 2500 RPM, leaned to within 75 of peak (on both sides).
>
> After powering down to about 22" and 2400 RPM, it settled down around
182F.
> Bitchin!
>
> Then we flew about 3 or 4 patterns at French Valley. This would be a
decent
> test. For the first two patterns, it didn't go above 190. On the third,
it
> did go up to 210, then up to 214 on a 4000' climbout. Once levelling off
at
> cruise about 55-65% power, it came back down to 180. Nice, that's more
like
> it!
>
> So if you're going to hang a 200hp IO-360 on your RV, I strongly advise
> leaving whatever oil cooler Van's would otherwise send you out of your FWF
> kit and going with the Stewart Warner. The next size up would be even
> better, but I believe this 6-plate 8406R will do the job. We'll see how
it
> handles the worst days in summer...
>
> Anyway, lots learned today, and I'm much happier that my engine is happy!
> As I mentioned above, the old oil cooler is for sale. I think it would be
a
> perfectly good oil cooler on an O-360 or O-320.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> P.S. -- Van's, if you're listening...I respect that you promote using
> lightweight components, but I think (a) aluminum fittings called out on
the
> plans is a bad idea, and (b) you shouldn't ship the 7-row Aero Classics
oil
> cooler with 200hp IO-360 FWF kits. I apologize in advance if my
experience
> is an anomaly (I don't believe so based on what I've heard from other
> builders) and this recommendation is not solid.
>
>
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