Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:15 AM - RV6 cowl flange (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)
2. 04:52 AM - Re: Bending SS hinge pins (RGray67968@aol.com)
3. 05:06 AM - Re: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features (Jack Lockamy)
4. 05:59 AM - Re: RV6 cowl flange (Jordan Grant)
5. 06:01 AM - Re: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features (Stein Bruch)
6. 06:40 AM - Inexpensive Solid State Gyros (Curt Reimer)
7. 06:52 AM - Re: RV6 cowl flange (Pat Hatch)
8. 07:13 AM - Re: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features (Stein Bruch)
9. 07:56 AM - Re: FAA re-register aircraft??? (Mike Robertson)
10. 08:06 AM - Re: Inexpensive Solid State Gyros (Rabaut, Chuck)
11. 08:24 AM - Re: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features (Phil Birkelbach)
12. 08:24 AM - Pitot tube placement (Mickey Coggins)
13. 09:12 AM - Re: [RV10] Re: Landing/NAV Lights (Bill VonDane)
14. 09:20 AM - Re: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features (Dan Checkoway)
15. 09:33 AM - Re: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features (Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers)
16. 09:38 AM - Re: Pitot tube placement (Dan Checkoway)
17. 10:28 AM - Re: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features (Tommy Walker)
18. 10:32 AM - Re: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features (Phil Birkelbach)
19. 10:33 AM - Re: Pitot tube placement (Kevin Horton)
20. 11:10 AM - Re: Pitot tube placement (Evan and Megan Johnson)
21. 11:56 AM - when problems are problems, and when they're not (Jeff Cours)
22. 12:00 PM - Re: Pitot tube placement (Will & Lynda Allen)
23. 12:10 PM - Re: Bending SS hinge pins (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
24. 12:28 PM - Re: Pitot tube placement (Will & Lynda Allen)
25. 12:28 PM - New Electronic Instruments (Ronnie Brown)
26. 12:37 PM - Re: Pitot tube placement (Richard Tasker)
27. 12:39 PM - Re: Inexpensive Solid State Gyros (Brian Denk)
28. 01:19 PM - Boulder, Co. visit. (Bruce Bell)
29. 01:19 PM - Re: Inexpensive Solid State Gyros (Ken Simmons)
30. 01:23 PM - Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not (Hal / Carol Kempthorne)
31. 01:25 PM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] Re: [RV10] Re: Landing/NAV Lights (Bill VonDane)
32. 01:27 PM - Re: New Electronic Instruments (Hal / Carol Kempthorne)
33. 01:41 PM - rv-7 vibration (Sabswbc@aol.com)
34. 01:46 PM - Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not (SportAV8R@aol.com)
35. 02:06 PM - Re: rv-7 vibration (Scott Bilinski)
36. 02:11 PM - Re: New Electronic Instruments (Terry Watson)
37. 02:56 PM - Re: rv-7 vibration (Alex Peterson)
38. 02:56 PM - Re: rv-7 vibration (James E. Clark)
39. 03:21 PM - Re: rv-7 vibration (Mike Robertson)
40. 03:46 PM - Re: rv-7 vibration (Sabswbc@aol.com)
41. 04:03 PM - LASAR Problem (Duane Bentley)
42. 05:00 PM - Re: LASAR Problem (Alex Peterson)
43. 05:05 PM - Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not (LarryRobertHelming)
44. 05:11 PM - Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not (Vanremog@aol.com)
45. 05:28 PM - Re: rv-7 vibration (Charles Rowbotham)
46. 05:51 PM - Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not (Bill Dube)
47. 06:05 PM - Re: rv-7 vibration (cgalley)
48. 06:11 PM - Re:New Electronic Instruments (Martin Hone)
49. 06:37 PM - Re: LASAR Problem (cgalley)
50. 07:37 PM - Re: RPM "Wandering" (Curt Reimer)
51. 08:07 PM - RV-4 elevator to horiz stab fitting problem (Richard Stoffel)
52. 08:55 PM - Re: RV-4 elevator to horiz stab fitting problem (Larry Bowen)
53. 09:41 PM - Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not (Brett Morawski)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by:
I'm fitting my cowl and I'm puzzled about how much of
the flange on the lower cowl to trim off. I have the
newer,honeycomb, "S" type cowl, but for some reason
the plans and manual refer only to the older style
cowl :-)
The manual says to trim off the flange, except for the
inboard intake section, which is held together with
plate nuts. So - should I trim off the outboard
intake section - and if so, what holds that little
section together?
Shirley Harding
RV6 QB
Perth
Western Australia
DO NOT ARCHIVE
http://au.movies.yahoo.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Bending SS hinge pins |
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
Larry,
Make the pin about 10" longer than needed on the 'short' end where the loop
will be. Then just cold roll it around a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" pipe (or
whatever size suits your needs). When finished just cut off the end.
Or, you can vise-grip the very end of the pin to the pipe and roll the long
end.
Either way worked well for me.
Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
I'm inserting my horizontal hinge pins for the cowl from the cockpit, rather
than from the front of the cowl... ala Danny King and others. I'd like to
bend the aft end of the pin into a nice circle for use as a finger pull.
Initial attempts at bending this stuff have turned out pretty ugly. Heating
with a propane torch hasn't helped much.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to best do this?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 Finish......
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
To confuse things even more.... my -7A has the original, smaller -8/8A rudder!
:-)
Jack Lockamy #71103
Camarillo, CA
N174JL reserved
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Shirley,
I couldn't deduce your E-mail address from your message, but I have a
couple of pictures that could help you out. Send me your address and I'll
E-Mail them directly to you.
In short, though, the only flange you should have left on the bottom cowl
is on the inboard intake section (like you mentioned), and maybe a a little
bit left on the outboard intake section. I left about 1/2" or so on the
rounded "tip" of the outboard intake section - just to maintain alignment of
the two cowl halves. The cowl is held together just fine by the hinges in
between the cowl halves.
Jordan Grant
RV-6 FWF
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]
Subject: RV-List: RV6 cowl flange
--> RV-List message posted by:
I'm fitting my cowl and I'm puzzled about how much of
the flange on the lower cowl to trim off. I have the
newer,honeycomb, "S" type cowl, but for some reason
the plans and manual refer only to the older style
cowl :-)
The manual says to trim off the flange, except for the
inboard intake section, which is held together with
plate nuts. So - should I trim off the outboard
intake section - and if so, what holds that little
section together?
Shirley Harding
RV6 QB
Perth
Western Australia
DO NOT ARCHIVE
http://au.movies.yahoo.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
And.....My brand new RV6 has the RV9 HUGE rudder/tail!
Cheers from Moscow
Stein Bruch.
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
>
>To confuse things even more.... my -7A has the original, smaller -8/8A rudder!
:-)
>
>Jack Lockamy #71103
>Camarillo, CA
>N174JL reserved
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Inexpensive Solid State Gyros |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca>
Anyone familiar with these or are they brand new? I just recieved some an
email informing me of their existance.
http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Stratomaster/SmartSingles/smartsingles.html
A couple of weeks ago some listers were expressing interest in electronic
instruments that were simple, inexpensive replacements for conventional
gyros & HSI, etc. No HSI here yet, but the AH, TC and Compass look
interesting.
Curt
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV6 cowl flange |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Hi Shirley,
You're on the right track: trim off the flange along the side of the cowl
only, this will be a butt fit from front to back and will be held together
by the hinge. The little section forward of the hinge that curls around the
intlet just butts together with no support. One other little tip: fit the
front of the two cowl halves together first, off the airplane, using clecoes
where the three nutplates on each side of the inlet will go. Then
re-assemble the cowl on the airplane and position it behind the spinner
plate in the proper location and re-insert the clecoes. The sides willl
overlap--this is OK for now. Now you can trim the rear of the cowl as per
the manual and this will lock in the proper relationship between the cowl
and the spinner. Easier said than done, but you will get the drift. Check
out the pictures on my web site:
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-pathatch
Go to RV-7 Project, Engine Install and Cowl Install.
Good luck
Pat
----- Original Message -----
From: <owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV6 cowl flange
> --> RV-List message posted by:
>
> I'm fitting my cowl and I'm puzzled about how much of
> the flange on the lower cowl to trim off. I have the
> newer,honeycomb, "S" type cowl, but for some reason
> the plans and manual refer only to the older style
> cowl :-)
>
> The manual says to trim off the flange, except for the
> inboard intake section, which is held together with
> plate nuts. So - should I trim off the outboard
> intake section - and if so, what holds that little
> section together?
>
> Shirley Harding
> RV6 QB
> Perth
> Western Australia
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> http://au.movies.yahoo.com
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
The dead giveaway on the -9's in either case (TC or nose dragger) is the Hershey
bar Elevator/Horiz Stab, and -
The flap hinges exposed below the wing....
Just the two most obvious traits not shared on the other RV's.
Cheers,
Stein.
Do Not Archive
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
>
>I am not sure how to tell you to tell them apart, aside from the obvious
>longer wings on the RV9/9A. Older 6s and 7s have a smaller rudder, but
>Van's has specified that the rudder should be replaced on the 7s with
>the 9s rudder. So, a smaller rudder shows it is not a 9, but a larger
>rudder doesn't necessarily mean it is a 9.
>
>However, the RV9 does, in fact, come in a taildragger version - so the
>one thing you know is wrong :-) . The RV10 is the only one that
>doesn't come in a taildragger version.
>
>Dick Tasker
>
>do not archive
>
>Mickey Coggins wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>>
>>Hi,
>>
>>Just curious - how can one tell the difference
>>at a glance between the various side by side RV models?
>>
>>I know that if it's a taildragger it's not a 9,
>>but that's about it.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Mickey
>>
>>--
>>Mickey Coggins
>>http://www.rv8.ch/
>>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | FAA re-register aircraft??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
The card is correct. I was backwards. Typed faster than the brain was
thinking. Do what the card says.
Sorry for any confusion.
Mike Robertson
>From: Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy@att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: FAA re-register aircraft???
>Date: Sat, 22 May 2004 08:27:13 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy@att.net>
>
>Mike,
>
>I just received the Triennial Aircraft Registration Report on my RV-3. As
>John Huft states, it says "Complete and return this form ONLY if the
>information provided on the reverse is incorrect." Also, there is no
>indication you must print and sign, it just has a block for Cancellation
>and a block for Address Change, both of which simply say Signature at
>bottom. Now we hear that if you don't send it in your registration might
>be withdraw. Is this FAA Doublespeak??? What gives????
>
>Stu McCurdy
>
>Time: 04:22:25 PM PST US
>From: "John Huft" <rv8tor@lazy8.net>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: FAA re-register aircraft??? was: All Glass
>Certification
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <rv8tor@lazy8.net>
>
>After many years of airplane ownership, the triennial card has always
>said...
>
>"If you still own this aircraft, and your information is correct, you may
>ignore this notice. If you do not own this aircraft, or if you have moved,
>etc., please correct and return"
>
>Or words to that effect.
>
>If the FAA is going to turn this around, they need to do so in capital
>letters, bold type, with red arrows etc., or there will be lots of new jobs
>for lots of bureaucrats straightening out the mess.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Robertson
>Subject: RE: RV-List: FAA re-register aircraft??? was: All Glass
>Certification
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
>Kind of. Once an aircraft is registered every three years after that the
>owner is supposed to be getting a card from the registry asking them if
>they
>still have the aircraft. If the owner does then he/she is supposed to fill
>out the card and mail it back in. There is no cost. This is called the
>trienneal review.
>The registry is trying to get a better handle on how many aircraft are
>still
>really in the system and to reduce the amount of paperwork costs in sending
>out ADs only to existing aircraft. This rule has actually been around for
>a
>while but has not been enforced.
>Another rule that they are starting to enforce as of June is the
>requirement
>to both print and sign your name on the application for registration. A
>lot
>of people don't see that in the bottom block of this form it asctually says
>to beth print and sign, so they just sign it and let it go.
>
>Mike Robertson
>
>
> >>From: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut@fcle.org>
> >>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >>Subject: RV-List: FAA re-register aircraft??? was: All Glass
> >>Certification
> >>Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 08:56:26 -0700
> >>
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut@fcle.org>
> >>
> >>Hey Mike, what's this mean...
> >>
> >>"FAA's Aircraft Registration Branch will increase its regulatory
> >>enforcement program beginning June 1, 2004. An owner who fails to
>respond
> >>within 60 days under the Triennial Aircraft Registration Report program
> >>might see suspension or revocation of his or her Certificate of Aircraft
> >>Registration and cancellation of the aircraft's "N" number, or
> >>registration. FAA says the increased enforcement is a safety as well as
>a
> >>paperwork issue. "The agency and manufacturers must be able to notify
> >>aircraft owners to distribute safety and maintenance related
>information,
> >>including airworthiness directives," said Mark Lash, manager of the FAA
> >>Civil Aviation Registry. The registry also helps local law enforcement
>and
> >>FSS begin search for a downed or overdue aircraft. FAA says registration
> >>address changes should be updated within 30 days, and it will post the
> >>names of those at risk on its website, www.faa.gov."
> >>
> >>Do we have to re-register our aircraft every three years (Triennial
> >>Aircraft Registration Report program)? Thanks,
> >>
> >> Chuck
> >
>
>
Get 200+ ad-free, high-fidelity stations and LIVE Major League Baseball
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Inexpensive Solid State Gyros |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut@fcle.org>
They look and sound good. With the prices that reasonable, I might have to buy
a couple and try them out.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Curt Reimer
Subject: RV-List: Inexpensive Solid State Gyros
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca>
Anyone familiar with these or are they brand new? I just recieved some an
email informing me of their existance.
http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Stratomaster/SmartSingles/smartsingles.html
A couple of weeks ago some listers were expressing interest in electronic
instruments that were simple, inexpensive replacements for conventional
gyros & HSI, etc. No HSI here yet, but the AH, TC and Compass look
interesting.
Curt
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
The way to tell definitevly is that the 9/9A has a rectangular HS where the
7/7A/6/6As all have a swept leading edge. You could tell side by side
because of wing shape and flaps but I find it's easier just to look at the
HS.
To distinguish between the 7 and 6 is more difficult. If you are at a
distance you may not be able to tell. The rudder is a giveaway on the six.
If it does not have a counterbalance then it is a 6. If it does have a
counterbalance it could be either. If you can get up close to the plane
look at the screws that attach the tanks. The 7's have them in a straight
line where the 6's have a staggared pattern. There are some other small
differeneces. Things like the rudder, wing tips, cowling and some of the
stuff in the cabin will help. There will be very few 6's without the scoop
on the bottom of the cowling but there may be some. There will be fewer 6's
with the CB rudder but there will be some. There will be a few 7's with the
small rudder but most will have the big tall rudder from the 9.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: RV-List: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Hi,
>
> Just curious - how can one tell the difference
> at a glance between the various side by side RV models?
>
> I know that if it's a taildragger it's not a 9,
> but that's about it.
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Pitot tube placement |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
I'm planning on a dynon pitot tube, and I just received
the Gretz Aero mount. It's not clear to me where would
be the best place to mount this baby. Is there a known
"best" spot? Dynon says the same place that the Van's
pitot is installed is a good spot, but this is directly
on top of the spar. The mounting kit I have from Gretz
assumes you're putting it on a nice flat piece of skin.
Thanks for any tips.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: [RV10] Re: Landing/NAV Lights |
rv8list@yahoogroups.com,
"RV10@yahoogroups.com"
<40B1FD7B.7060402@MyRV10.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Yes, I will have HID's (25w HID / Metal Halide lamps) available soon that
will fit in the same space my current Halogen lamps...
I should be getting the first set this week, and once I an satisfied with
them I will put them up on the site for sale...
I also sell a strobe solution that fit's in the tip as well, and if
installed and grounded correctly there is NO radio interference
whatsoever...
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: [RV10] Re: Landing/NAV Lights
Are these kits that mount in the wingtips capable of HID lamps?
I haven't really thought much about where/how I want to mount
my landing lights yet, except that I'm 100% sure I want HID's.
My 2nd question then is: What about interference to NAV/COM's?
I'm planning to go with wingtip and tail strobes, NAV lights, COM
antennas on the belly (because I want beautiful signal more than
an antenna free plane), and I have no idea where I'll put the NAV
antennas....I just want no chance of either the HID's or the Strobes
interfering with the NAV or the COM.
Tim
#40170
Bill VonDane wrote:
> Hey Ron...
>
> I sell a landing light kit that using MR16 bulbs and fits in the RV-10
wing
> tips... In fact, I gave the guys at Van's one of my kits a couple years
> ago... It's funny that they have one of their own now...
>
> Anyway, if you don't want to wait for theirs, you can check out mine at:
> www.creativair.com/cva
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA TC / RV-8A - Colorado
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
> www.rv8a.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rv8grover" <rv8grover@charter.net>
> To: <RV10@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 6:26 PM
> Subject: [RV10] Re: Landing/NAV Lights
>
>
> Listers:
> Page 24-1 of the wing instructions calls out a LL RV-10 MR-16
> wing tip landing light kit. I tried to order it on line with no
> luck. It's not available yet but Van's says shouldn't be too
> long ....still getting it into production.
> Ron Grover
> 40063
>
>
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
If you've got a -7 and -6 next to each other, and you can't tell the
difference because the -6 may have a counterweighted rudder...
The elevator control horn inspection panels (aft fuselage sides) are often a
giveaway. Seems like most -6s have round holes.
Also look at the distance between the panel and sub-panel, where the -7 has
more depth. The thickness/shape of the spar and seat pans at the spar, if
you can see it, is a giveaway. Just look at the control stick's position
relative to the front of the spar.
Different size and spacing of the rivets along the longerons at the front
end.
Different wing tips (although many -6's have sheared tips).
Some older -6's have the "squarer" wheel pants. Sometimes they have
aluminum leg fairings.
The real dead giveaway is the bitter builder standing next to it who can't
seem to stop chanting, "I had to drill all the holes!" 8-)
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 15
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| From: | "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne@engravers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne@engravers.net>
Not to be smart, you could look at the aircraft's data tag on the left, aft
section of the fuselage.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
>
> The way to tell definitevly is that the 9/9A has a rectangular HS where
the
> 7/7A/6/6As all have a swept leading edge. You could tell side by side
> because of wing shape and flaps but I find it's easier just to look at the
> HS.
>
> To distinguish between the 7 and 6 is more difficult. If you are at a
> distance you may not be able to tell. The rudder is a giveaway on the
six.
> If it does not have a counterbalance then it is a 6. If it does have a
> counterbalance it could be either. If you can get up close to the plane
> look at the screws that attach the tanks. The 7's have them in a straight
> line where the 6's have a staggared pattern. There are some other small
> differeneces. Things like the rudder, wing tips, cowling and some of the
> stuff in the cabin will help. There will be very few 6's without the
scoop
> on the bottom of the cowling but there may be some. There will be fewer
6's
> with the CB rudder but there will be some. There will be a few 7's with
the
> small rudder but most will have the big tall rudder from the 9.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > Just curious - how can one tell the difference
> > at a glance between the various side by side RV models?
> >
> > I know that if it's a taildragger it's not a 9,
> > but that's about it.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Mickey
> >
> > --
> > Mickey Coggins
> > http://www.rv8.ch/
> > #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
> >
> >
>
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube placement |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> I'm planning on a dynon pitot tube, and I just received
> the Gretz Aero mount. It's not clear to me where would
> be the best place to mount this baby. Is there a known
> "best" spot? Dynon says the same place that the Van's
FWIW, I mounted mine aft of the spar, in the bay just outboard of the
outboard inspection panel.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features |
Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 24 May 2004 12:24:22 -0500
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
Not to be smart, you could look at the aircraft's data tag on the left, aft
section of the fuselage.
That's the best idea yet!
Tommy
6A, FWF
Ridgetop, TN
do not archive this B.S., cause there's too much on this thread already!!!
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
Yeah but that doesn't impress the other show-goers. :-)
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne@engravers.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers"
<wayne@engravers.net>
>
> Not to be smart, you could look at the aircraft's data tag on the left,
aft
> section of the fuselage.
>
> Wayne
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
> >
> > The way to tell definitevly is that the 9/9A has a rectangular HS where
> the
> > 7/7A/6/6As all have a swept leading edge. You could tell side by side
> > because of wing shape and flaps but I find it's easier just to look at
the
> > HS.
> >
> > To distinguish between the 7 and 6 is more difficult. If you are at a
> > distance you may not be able to tell. The rudder is a giveaway on the
> six.
> > If it does not have a counterbalance then it is a 6. If it does have a
> > counterbalance it could be either. If you can get up close to the plane
> > look at the screws that attach the tanks. The 7's have them in a
straight
> > line where the 6's have a staggared pattern. There are some other small
> > differeneces. Things like the rudder, wing tips, cowling and some of
the
> > stuff in the cabin will help. There will be very few 6's without the
> scoop
> > on the bottom of the cowling but there may be some. There will be fewer
> 6's
> > with the CB rudder but there will be some. There will be a few 7's with
> the
> > small rudder but most will have the big tall rudder from the 9.
> >
> > Godspeed,
> >
> > Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> > RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
> > http://www.myrv7.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: RV6/7/9 distinguishing features
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > Just curious - how can one tell the difference
> > > at a glance between the various side by side RV models?
> > >
> > > I know that if it's a taildragger it's not a 9,
> > > but that's about it.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Mickey
> > >
> > > --
> > > Mickey Coggins
> > > http://www.rv8.ch/
> > > #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube placement |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>Hi,
>
>I'm planning on a dynon pitot tube, and I just received
>the Gretz Aero mount. It's not clear to me where would
>be the best place to mount this baby. Is there a known
>"best" spot? Dynon says the same place that the Van's
>pitot is installed is a good spot, but this is directly
>on top of the spar. The mounting kit I have from Gretz
>assumes you're putting it on a nice flat piece of skin.
>
>Thanks for any tips.
>
>Mickey
The laws of physics are quite friendly as far as pitot tube mountings
go. The local velocities vary at different locations around the
airframe. Bernoulli's Law tells us that the static pressure will
vary as the local velocity changes. But, the air comes to a stop in
the pitot tube, and the pressure will then be the same, no matter how
the local velocity varied before the air stopped.
The pitot tube will work correctly as long as it is far enough from
the skin to be out of the boundary layer, it is not in the prop wash,
or in the wake from something else, and it is roughly aligned into
the relative airflow (up to a 15 degree misalignment won't have much
effect). So you don't have to worry about moving it a few inches
from Van's location.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube placement |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
My gretz tube came in a box with no instructions or mounting kit.....so I'm
in the same boat. Aft of the spar makes sense to me also, but what did you
guys do to stiffen up the area it attaches to? Does the flange on the
mounting tube just lay on top of the wing skin or is it supposed to sit
flush?...that would require a pretty big hole to be cut into the wing skin.
I was considering cutting the aero shaped hole in the skin and putting the
flange on the inside of the wing as well....any comments? That is probably
what I am supposed to do........
Thanks in advance....Evan
RV10 wings
www.evansaviationproducts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube placement
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > I'm planning on a dynon pitot tube, and I just received
> > the Gretz Aero mount. It's not clear to me where would
> > be the best place to mount this baby. Is there a known
> > "best" spot? Dynon says the same place that the Van's
>
> FWIW, I mounted mine aft of the spar, in the bay just outboard of the
> outboard inspection panel.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | when problems are problems, and when they're not |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
As I've been building this airplane, every few hours I run into
something that's wrong. Maybe it's a rivet that's too close to the edge,
maybe a place where I goofed and trimmed something to the wrong
dimensions, and so on.
When that happens, I e-mail Van's with a description of the thing, and
sometimes a small picture, and get a prompt, helpful answer. Sometimes
that answer is "it's fine, don't worry about it", and sometimes it's
"yep, better replace it". Either answer is great 'cause it gets me back
on track with the building.
However, there's a problem. The problem is that I'm an engineer.
Like most engineers, it really starts to bug me to work on something I
don't understand. Unfortunately, I learned electrical and computer
engineering, not aircraft structural engineering. That means my math's
pretty weak and I couldn't calculate beam stresses to save my life.
Right now, I'm getting this great practical education in what's right
and what's wrong -- I goof, I find out if it's OK or not, and I learn --
but an airplane is pretty complicated. At this rate it's going to take
me 'till the next century of flight to screw up enough to understand
this beast.
Can anyone recommend a book on aircraft structural engineering for
people whose eyes glaze over when they see greek letters in equations? I
don't mean an "acceptable repair methods" kind of thing: I'd really like
to be able to visualize the stresses in the airframe, so I can
understand why Van designed it the way he did.
thanks,
Jeff
Message 22
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| Subject: | Pitot tube placement |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@comcast.net>
Which gretz mounting bracket works for the Dynon pitot? At spruce, I see
two different part #'s; one for AN5812 and one for AN5814 pitot tubes.
Thanks,
-Will Allen
rv8 wings
North Bend, WA.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Evan and Megan
Johnson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube placement
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
My gretz tube came in a box with no instructions or mounting kit.....so I'm
in the same boat. Aft of the spar makes sense to me also, but what did you
guys do to stiffen up the area it attaches to? Does the flange on the
mounting tube just lay on top of the wing skin or is it supposed to sit
flush?...that would require a pretty big hole to be cut into the wing skin.
I was considering cutting the aero shaped hole in the skin and putting the
flange on the inside of the wing as well....any comments? That is probably
what I am supposed to do........
Thanks in advance....Evan
RV10 wings
www.evansaviationproducts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube placement
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > I'm planning on a dynon pitot tube, and I just received
> > the Gretz Aero mount. It's not clear to me where would
> > be the best place to mount this baby. Is there a known
> > "best" spot? Dynon says the same place that the Van's
>
> FWIW, I mounted mine aft of the spar, in the bay just outboard of the
> outboard inspection panel.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bending SS hinge pins |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 5/23/04 10:18:08 PM Central Daylight Time,
Larry@bowenaero.com writes:
> I'm inserting my horizontal hinge pins for the cowl from the cockpit,
> rather
> than from the front of the cowl... ala Danny King and others. I'd like to
> bend the aft end of the pin into a nice circle for use as a finger pull.
Hi Larry-
I bent mine at 90 degrees, about 3/4" long and they still pull easily- I did
it like this so the bent end can be inserted into a hole in a little piece of
angle bonded to the inside of the skin with VHB tape to secure the pin. Has
worked well so far, but I'd definately make them as long as practical- mine
only come through the firewall about 7". I wish I'd made them at least 5 or 6
inches longer, maybe more...
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A, flying 75 hrs
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Pitot tube placement |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@comcast.net>
Nevermind, I found it under FAQ on Dynon's website. Sorry for the traffic.
-Will
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Will & Lynda Allen
Subject: RE: RV-List: Pitot tube placement
--> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@comcast.net>
Which gretz mounting bracket works for the Dynon pitot? At spruce, I see
two different part #'s; one for AN5812 and one for AN5814 pitot tubes.
Thanks,
-Will Allen
rv8 wings
North Bend, WA.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Evan and Megan
Johnson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube placement
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
My gretz tube came in a box with no instructions or mounting kit.....so I'm
in the same boat. Aft of the spar makes sense to me also, but what did you
guys do to stiffen up the area it attaches to? Does the flange on the
mounting tube just lay on top of the wing skin or is it supposed to sit
flush?...that would require a pretty big hole to be cut into the wing skin.
I was considering cutting the aero shaped hole in the skin and putting the
flange on the inside of the wing as well....any comments? That is probably
what I am supposed to do........
Thanks in advance....Evan
RV10 wings
www.evansaviationproducts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube placement
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > I'm planning on a dynon pitot tube, and I just received
> > the Gretz Aero mount. It's not clear to me where would
> > be the best place to mount this baby. Is there a known
> > "best" spot? Dynon says the same place that the Van's
>
> FWIW, I mounted mine aft of the spar, in the bay just outboard of the
> outboard inspection panel.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | New Electronic Instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
A friend found this on the internet. Anybody know anything about them?
I don't know if this has been posted before but the prices for these
electronic instruments are hard to beat.
http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Stratomaster/SmartSingles/smartsingles.
html
If they're any good at all, it would be an inexpensive way to back up vacuum
gauges or, with a small, isolable backup batter, could provide back up for
an all-elect system. I can't imagine they draw much current. Anyone have
any experience with them?
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube placement |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
If you go to http://www.gretzaero.com/ you can order it direct and you
can specify it is for the Dynon pitot.
Dick Tasker
Will & Lynda Allen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@comcast.net>
>
>Which gretz mounting bracket works for the Dynon pitot? At spruce, I see
>two different part #'s; one for AN5812 and one for AN5814 pitot tubes.
>
>Thanks,
>
>-Will Allen
> rv8 wings
> North Bend, WA.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Evan and Megan
>Johnson
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube placement
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
><evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
>My gretz tube came in a box with no instructions or mounting kit.....so I'm
>in the same boat. Aft of the spar makes sense to me also, but what did you
>guys do to stiffen up the area it attaches to? Does the flange on the
>mounting tube just lay on top of the wing skin or is it supposed to sit
>flush?...that would require a pretty big hole to be cut into the wing skin.
>I was considering cutting the aero shaped hole in the skin and putting the
>flange on the inside of the wing as well....any comments? That is probably
>what I am supposed to do........
>Thanks in advance....Evan
>RV10 wings
>www.evansaviationproducts.com
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube placement
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>>
>>
>>
>>>I'm planning on a dynon pitot tube, and I just received
>>>the Gretz Aero mount. It's not clear to me where would
>>>be the best place to mount this baby. Is there a known
>>>"best" spot? Dynon says the same place that the Van's
>>>
>>>
>>FWIW, I mounted mine aft of the spar, in the bay just outboard of the
>>outboard inspection panel.
>>
>>)_( Dan
>>RV-7 N714D
>>http://www.rvproject.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Inexpensive Solid State Gyros |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Neat stuff!! They're mostly configured for the ultralight crowd (engine
monitoring systems), but the stand alone flight gauges sure look terrific
and are dirt cheap. The attitude indicator for under a grand sure gets my
attention.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
do not archive
>From: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut@fcle.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Inexpensive Solid State Gyros
>Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 08:03:32 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut@fcle.org>
>
>They look and sound good. With the prices that reasonable, I might have to
>buy a couple and try them out.
>
> Chuck
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Curt Reimer
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Inexpensive Solid State Gyros
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca>
>
>Anyone familiar with these or are they brand new? I just recieved some an
>email informing me of their existance.
>
>http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Stratomaster/SmartSingles/smartsingles.html
>
>A couple of weeks ago some listers were expressing interest in electronic
>instruments that were simple, inexpensive replacements for conventional
>gyros & HSI, etc. No HSI here yet, but the AH, TC and Compass look
>interesting.
>
>Curt
>
>
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Boulder, Co. visit. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell@door.net>
Hi all around Boulder, Co.
Visiting Boulder, Colorado from July 4 to 8 July, staying at UC. Request
info on airport of choice and FBO.
Thank you all!
Bruce Bell
Lubbock, Texas
RV4 # 2888
N23BB (Not flying!)
A35 Bonanza N723B (Flying)
DO NOT ARCHIVE!
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Inexpensive Solid State Gyros |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
I'm a little concerned with their customer support. I've emailed the company that
makes them several times about the availability of their G meter. I've never
received a reply. I have recieved a reply from sportflyingshop.com, but their
answer was pretty much "we don't know, we haven't heard from the factory".
Ken
DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>>From: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut@fcle.org>
>>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: Inexpensive Solid State Gyros
>>Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 08:03:32 -0700
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut@fcle.org>
>>
>>They look and sound good. With the prices that reasonable, I might have to
>>buy a couple and try them out.
>>
>> Chuck
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Curt Reimer
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: Inexpensive Solid State Gyros
>>
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca>
>>
>>Anyone familiar with these or are they brand new? I just recieved some an
>>email informing me of their existance.
>>
>>http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Stratomaster/SmartSingles/smartsingles.html
>>
>>A couple of weeks ago some listers were expressing interest in electronic
>>instruments that were simple, inexpensive replacements for conventional
>>gyros & HSI, etc. No HSI here yet, but the AH, TC and Compass look
>>interesting.
>>
>>Curt
>>
>>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 11:53 AM 5/24/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>
>However, there's a problem. The problem is that I'm an engineer.
Me too, Jeff. Graduated Industrial then moved to software. However, with
my RV, I consider myself a builder.
My understanding of engineering is that we have theories and rules of thumb
(and swags!) to help us design things with a better chance that they will
not fail. If calculations are correct and things still fail, then we
adjust our rules and theories. I have another problem and that is that I
am a skeptic made extreme by studying philosophy after the engineering! As
a skeptic I have trouble accepting that what I am building is really
designed just right. So I have studied aircraft structures and recommend
"Aircraft Structures" by Peery and "Fatigue of Materials" by Suresh.
Peery is comprehensible but Suresh is tough going for me.
Even if I understood everything in these two volumes, I would not be
anxious to fly something I designed. I might copy some known workable
design and make a few changes, however. I believe that is how much small
aircraft design is done.
Even tho Van is not an aero engineer - his degree was "General Engineering"
- I'd fly anything he designed. If he tested it first, of course!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Re: [RV10] Re: Landing/NAV Lights |
rv8list@yahoogroups.com,
"RV10@yahoogroups.com
<40B1FD7B.7060402@MyRV10.com> <010701c441a9$90fe7450$51e25f0a@vondane>"
<20040524131837.B32447@tondu.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Yes, you will be able to upgrade.....and right now it looks like the price
for the HIDs will be $684 for the pair... That's the lamps, ballasts, and
connectors... If you buy the whole landing light kit with the HID's it will
be $799...
Also, to keep the cost down, I will be offering them in singles, so you
could put an HID in one tip for landing, and a Halogen in the other for
taxiing... Then you would be looking at $407 for both sides...
Please note... Due to the longer warm-up time of HID lamps, they are not
compatoble with wig-wag flasher units...
These are just estimates at this time, I will be posting more information as
I have it...
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walter Tondu" <walter@tondu.com>
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Re: [RV10] Re: Landing/NAV Lights
On 05/24 10:09, Bill VonDane wrote:
> Yes, I will have HID's (25w HID / Metal Halide lamps) available soon that
> will fit in the same space my current Halogen lamps...
>
> I should be getting the first set this week, and once I an satisfied with
> them I will put them up on the site for sale...
>
> I also sell a strobe solution that fit's in the tip as well, and if
> installed and grounded correctly there is NO radio interference
> whatsoever...
Thanks for the update Bill. I have a pair of your Halogen lamps,
uninstalled, still in the box. Will I be able to upgrade to the HID?
What will be the approximate upgrade costs if so?
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.tondu.com/rv7
Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free!
http://us.click.yahoo.com/L5YrjA/eSIIAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
Online help on this group at:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: New Electronic Instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 12:26 PM 5/24/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
>
>If they're any good at all, it would be an inexpensive way to back up vacuum
>gauges
Replace the vacuum! Get it out of your bird. Sell the parts if you can
and if not send them to the Salvation Army or Goodwill.
Also check out the Dynon. Fantastic device!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 33
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Sabswbc@aol.com
My rv-7 has a 200 hp with constant speed prop. It has dual electronis
ignition and fuel injection and of course, it is very fast. Here is the problem,
the
plane has a vibration that i cannot find. It shakes thestick and can be felt
throughout the plane. The vibration increases slightly as the RMP decreases. I
have expended the exhaust, balanced the prop and check all control surfaces
and still the shack. All the other RV's i have flown have fixed pitch props snd
less HP. Any idears .
Sam Butler
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
In a message dated 5/24/2004 4:19:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kempthornes@earthlink.net
writes:
> As
> a skeptic I have trouble accepting that what I am building
> is really
> designed just right.
Um, Hal, shouldn't that read, "As a skeptic I have trouble accepting that what
I am building is real"?
You sound like you're only halfway to being a skeptic.
This is not meant as a flame, and even if it were, no need to worry, since we,
your RV list buddies, aren't demonstrably real anyway ;-)
-Stormy
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: rv-7 vibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Is the prop on the correct index bushing? Track the prop and make sure the
tips are with in spec. Engine mount bolts tight from the engine to the
mount and the mount to the fire wall? I know a guy who bought a prop/engine
combo and the prop vibrated badly. He checked the tip run out and what he
found made him go out and buy a new prop!!! Oh, and yes, his vibration went
away.
At 04:36 PM 5/24/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Sabswbc@aol.com
>
>My rv-7 has a 200 hp with constant speed prop. It has dual electronis
>ignition and fuel injection and of course, it is very fast. Here is the
>problem, the
>plane has a vibration that i cannot find. It shakes thestick and can be felt
>throughout the plane. The vibration increases slightly as the RMP
>decreases. I
>have expended the exhaust, balanced the prop and check all control surfaces
>and still the shack. All the other RV's i have flown have fixed pitch
>props snd
>less HP. Any idears .
>
>Sam Butler
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | New Electronic Instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Hal, are you trying to tell us that vacuum systems suck?
Terry
Do not archive
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne
<kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Replace the vacuum! Get it out of your bird. Sell the parts if you can
and if not send them to the Salvation Army or Goodwill.
Also check out the Dynon. Fantastic device!
Message 37
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
I'll add a couple things -
Does it vibrate equally when run on only one or the other ignition?
What about the ignition timing?
Does lean/rich make any difference? If so, it could be combustion
related.
Can you duplicate it on the ground? If so, you might remove the spinner
and do a run up to eliminate that.
Do you have a fuel flow meter and individual EGT's? You might want to
plot EGT's vs fuel flow from well rich of peak to well lean of peak.
Perhaps one cylinder is not getting enough juice.
Keep us posted.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 472 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> --> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Is the prop on the correct index bushing? Track the prop and
> make sure the
> tips are with in spec. Engine mount bolts tight from the
> engine to the
> mount and the mount to the fire wall? I know a guy who bought
> a prop/engine
> combo and the prop vibrated badly. He checked the tip run out
> and what he
> found made him go out and buy a new prop!!! Oh, and yes, his
> vibration went
> away.
>
> At 04:36 PM 5/24/2004 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Sabswbc@aol.com
> >
> >My rv-7 has a 200 hp with constant speed prop. It has dual
> electronis
> >ignition and fuel injection and of course, it is very fast.
> Here is the
> >problem, the plane has a vibration that i cannot find. It shakes
> >thestick and can be felt throughout the plane. The vibration
> increases
> >slightly as the RMP decreases. I
> >have expended the exhaust, balanced the prop and check all
> control surfaces
> >and still the shack. All the other RV's i have flown have
> fixed pitch
> >props snd
> >less HP. Any idears .
> >
> >Sam Butler
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
> ============
> Matronics Forums.
> ============
> ============
> ============
>
>
>
>
>
Message 38
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
There may be many reasons but one thing to do is check your engine mounts
Sam.
- Are they conical or dynafocal??
- Are they in good condition or in need of replacement?
- Are they all torqued?
- Did the engine "settle" and one is more loose?
Just some things to think about.
See Archives ("All Shook Up")
James ... been there in some fashion
(about to get stuck with the callsign "Vibes")
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sabswbc@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, May 24, 2004 4:36 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: rv-7 vibration
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sabswbc@aol.com
>
> My rv-7 has a 200 hp with constant speed prop. It has dual electronis
> ignition and fuel injection and of course, it is very fast. Here
> is the problem, the
> plane has a vibration that i cannot find. It shakes thestick and
> can be felt
> throughout the plane. The vibration increases slightly as the RMP
> decreases. I
> have expended the exhaust, balanced the prop and check all
> control surfaces
> and still the shack. All the other RV's i have flown have fixed
> pitch props snd
> less HP. Any idears .
>
> Sam Butler
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: rv-7 vibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
You may also to try to find a person that does dynamic balancing of the
engine and prop and let him have a go at the vibration analysis.
Mike Robertson
>From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: rv-7 vibration
>Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 14:03:27 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
><bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>Is the prop on the correct index bushing? Track the prop and make sure the
>tips are with in spec. Engine mount bolts tight from the engine to the
>mount and the mount to the fire wall? I know a guy who bought a prop/engine
>combo and the prop vibrated badly. He checked the tip run out and what he
>found made him go out and buy a new prop!!! Oh, and yes, his vibration went
>away.
>
>At 04:36 PM 5/24/2004 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Sabswbc@aol.com
> >
> >My rv-7 has a 200 hp with constant speed prop. It has dual electronis
> >ignition and fuel injection and of course, it is very fast. Here is the
> >problem, the
> >plane has a vibration that i cannot find. It shakes thestick and can be
>felt
> >throughout the plane. The vibration increases slightly as the RMP
> >decreases. I
> >have expended the exhaust, balanced the prop and check all control
>surfaces
> >and still the shack. All the other RV's i have flown have fixed pitch
> >props snd
> >less HP. Any idears .
> >
> >Sam Butler
> >
> >
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: rv-7 vibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sabswbc@aol.com
I did have the prop and engine dynamically balanced. Also the vibration does
not change with leaning or either ignition. Timing is 25 degrees at 2500 rpm
and is the same on both.
Message 41
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley@fuse.net>
I have my RV6 completed and ready to fly. I have an 0-360 with LASAR
installed by Lycoming. I've run into a problem with the LH magneto not
firing and have been in contact with Unison, who have been very helpful
but have run out of suggestions. Harry Fenton is no longer with Unison.
The P-Leads for LH and RH switches go to my panel and are terminated in
toggle switches to ground. They are identical in setup. On run up, I
shut off the LH Mag and the engine keeps running. The enunciator light
comes on telling me I'm in backup mode. I turn the LH mag back to run,
and shut off the RH Mag. The engine immediately dies. I've checked out
the wiring from the LASAR controller to the instrument panel and to
ground. It is correct and shows the wire is open until the toggle
switch goes to off.
Unison said I must have timed the LH mag wrong. The timing kit (for
LASAR) shows that the RH and LH mags are synchronized, both going on a
25 degrees BTC. I removed the LH mag, put in the pin, reinstalled the
mag with the engine at 25 degrees BTC, removed the pin, and secured the
mag. On start up and checkout, same response. I completely
disconnected the ground shield from the LH mag with no change. I then
disconnected the ground shield and the connector to the controller,
again no change in response. In my understanding, there should be
nothing grounding the mag at this point, but the engine still shuts down
with RH mag off.
Unison said I did all the troubleshooting they could think off, and to
send them back the LH mag. I did so and they quickly tested it. No
problem found was their response this morning. They are sending me back
a new mag, however.
What do I do next after the new unit returns? If nothing is changed, I
doubt that the results will be any different. A fellow RV builder
loaned me his induction timing light to check that the LH mag is giving
out spark. Unison's last note was to check the drive gear for the LH
mag, make sure it is installed and in the correct position to drive the
mag. I assume he means inside the accessory case. I have the Lycoming
manual. Can this gear be seen and removed with the aft case installed.
I don't know how it could be out of position and mag still turn so that
the timing kit still show the "Sensor BKR PT" light go on (LH Mag) at
the right angle point. I would think this is telling me that the mag is
turning.
Spark plugs.. as delivered with the engine, REM38. I've removed the top
four and had desiccant plugs installed for a couple of years. But the
LH mag uses only two of the top plugs, not all four, so if they have
become defective, I'd thought I would have seen it on the RH mag
response as well.
Stymied..
Duane Bentley
RV6 N515DB
Airworthiness Certificate in hand - waiting to fly
West Chester, OH
Message 42
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley@fuse.net>
>
> I have my RV6 completed and ready to fly. I have an 0-360
> with LASAR installed by Lycoming. I've run into a problem
> with the LH magneto not firing and have been in contact with
> Unison, who have been very helpful but have run out of
> suggestions. Harry Fenton is no longer with Unison.
>
>
> The P-Leads for LH and RH switches go to my panel and are
> terminated in toggle switches to ground. They are identical
> in setup. On run up, I shut off the LH Mag and the engine
> keeps running. The enunciator light comes on telling me I'm
> in backup mode. I turn the LH mag back to run, and shut off
> the RH Mag. The engine immediately dies. I've checked out
> the wiring from the LASAR controller to the instrument panel
> and to ground. It is correct and shows the wire is open
> until the toggle switch goes to off.
>
>
> Unison said I must have timed the LH mag wrong. The timing kit (for
> LASAR) shows that the RH and LH mags are synchronized, both
> going on a 25 degrees BTC. I removed the LH mag, put in the
> pin, reinstalled the mag with the engine at 25 degrees BTC,
> removed the pin, and secured the mag. On start up and
> checkout, same response. I completely disconnected the
> ground shield from the LH mag with no change. I then
> disconnected the ground shield and the connector to the
> controller, again no change in response. In my
> understanding, there should be nothing grounding the mag at
> this point, but the engine still shuts down with RH mag off.
>
>
> Unison said I did all the troubleshooting they could think
> off, and to send them back the LH mag. I did so and they
> quickly tested it. No problem found was their response this
> morning. They are sending me back a new mag, however.
>
>
> What do I do next after the new unit returns? If nothing is
> changed, I doubt that the results will be any different. A
> fellow RV builder loaned me his induction timing light to
> check that the LH mag is giving out spark. Unison's last
> note was to check the drive gear for the LH mag, make sure it
> is installed and in the correct position to drive the mag. I
> assume he means inside the accessory case. I have the
> Lycoming manual. Can this gear be seen and removed with the
> aft case installed.
>
>
> I don't know how it could be out of position and mag still
> turn so that the timing kit still show the "Sensor BKR PT"
> light go on (LH Mag) at the right angle point. I would think
> this is telling me that the mag is turning.
>
>
> Spark plugs.. as delivered with the engine, REM38. I've
> removed the top four and had desiccant plugs installed for a
> couple of years. But the LH mag uses only two of the top
> plugs, not all four, so if they have become defective, I'd
> thought I would have seen it on the RH mag response as well.
>
>
> Stymied..
>
>
> Duane Bentley
Duane,
I had this happen after about 380 hours. The left mag simply croaked.
I believe it was something electronic inside, and not the typical
mechanical stuff mags do. Unison sent me a new replacement, free of
charge, even though I had flown the plane for two years. I don't
exactly have a warm, fuzzy feeling about the system any more, but Unison
is standing behind it. The fact that they sent me a new one without
even getting the old one first tells me that they might have a
not-so-infrequent problem with something in there. They may be
suspecting something flaky in yours, if it tested ok but they are
sending you a new one anyway.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 472 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Hey Jeff. Go Easy man. Try to refine your work habits and not to make
errors. You will sleep better at night. Follow the engineer's design and
construction carefully. It takes a lot of time to reengineer anything.
REread the first few chapters in the construction manual to refresh some of
the basics. Overcome the urge to rush ahead. If you deviate for what ever
reason, you stand a chance of being wrong. ITS only YOUR life in the plane.
And if you decide to sell it to someone rather than fly it, you will always
know about those things that were not right according to the designing
engineer.
So, again, I say, don't make errors. Read the plans and construction book
carefully, measure twice, turn everything around backwards and look at it
that way before you decide this is how it goes on. And the last thing I can
tell you on this is after you think you did somethng right go back and check
to make sure it is really right.
Life is too short to become an aeronautical engineer at this stage of the
game. No one but you and Vans knws how many parts you bought a second time
to make it according to design.
Keep that UPS driver coming to your house. After a while, it will business
as usual. FWIW, The local UPS driver knows me so well, I get a Christmas
card.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Cours" <rv-j@moriarti.org>
Subject: RV-List: when problems are problems, and when they're not
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>
> As I've been building this airplane, every few hours I run into
> something that's wrong. Maybe it's a rivet that's too close to the edge,
> maybe a place where I goofed and trimmed something to the wrong
> dimensions, and so on.
>
> When that happens, I e-mail Van's with a description of the thing, and
> sometimes a small picture, and get a prompt, helpful answer. Sometimes
> that answer is "it's fine, don't worry about it", and sometimes it's
> "yep, better replace it". Either answer is great 'cause it gets me back
> on track with the building.
>
> However, there's a problem. The problem is that I'm an engineer.
>
> Like most engineers, it really starts to bug me to work on something I
> don't understand. Unfortunately, I learned electrical and computer
> engineering, not aircraft structural engineering. That means my math's
> pretty weak and I couldn't calculate beam stresses to save my life.
>
> Right now, I'm getting this great practical education in what's right
> and what's wrong -- I goof, I find out if it's OK or not, and I learn --
> but an airplane is pretty complicated. At this rate it's going to take
> me 'till the next century of flight to screw up enough to understand
> this beast.
>
> Can anyone recommend a book on aircraft structural engineering for
> people whose eyes glaze over when they see greek letters in equations? I
> don't mean an "acceptable repair methods" kind of thing: I'd really like
> to be able to visualize the stresses in the airframe, so I can
> understand why Van designed it the way he did.
>
> thanks,
> Jeff
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 5/24/2004 1:47:47 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
SportAV8R@aol.com writes:
This is not meant as a flame, and even if it were, no need to worry, since
we, your RV list buddies, aren't demonstrably real anyway ;-)
--------------------------------------------------------
Sam-
But what about the "I build, therefore I am" argument for reality?
Do not archive
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
Message 45
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Sam,
In addition to all the good questions and advice, I'd suggest you check your
baffling: I had a vibration that I couldn't track down either. Did the
balance and a many of the other suggestions. Call Van's and they suggested I
check the baffling - in particular if it connects the engine to the cowling.
What I found was the forward rubber baffle material that I'd screwed to the
lip opening on both the air inlets. Figured it was rubber and would maintain
the isolation. When I removed the screws and let the flap float -
vibrations went away almost entirely ! On a side note did not see any
increase in oil temps - which is the reason I attached the rubber baffing in
the first place.
Good Luck,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (200ho - c/s)
>From: Sabswbc@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: rv-7 vibration
>Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 16:36:26 EDT
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Sabswbc@aol.com
>
>My rv-7 has a 200 hp with constant speed prop. It has dual electronis
>ignition and fuel injection and of course, it is very fast. Here is the
>problem, the
>plane has a vibration that i cannot find. It shakes thestick and can be
>felt
>throughout the plane. The vibration increases slightly as the RMP
>decreases. I
>have expended the exhaust, balanced the prop and check all control surfaces
>and still the shack. All the other RV's i have flown have fixed pitch props
>snd
>less HP. Any idears .
>
>Sam Butler
>
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
>
>Can anyone recommend a book on aircraft structural engineering for
>people whose eyes glaze over when they see greek letters in equations? I
>don't mean an "acceptable repair methods" kind of thing: I'd really like
>to be able to visualize the stresses in the airframe, so I can
>understand why Van designed it the way he did.
Marks' Mechanical Engineers' Handbook (McGraw-Hill)
Older editions of Marks' are better than newer editions, in my
opinion.
Once you have the basics of beam theory under control, you might
wish to get a demo copy of ANSYS. http://www.ansys.com/ansys/designspace.htm
You can then see how the stresses actually distribute. You will
discover that, near the ends, beams don't behave like anything resembling
beam theory.
What you will come to realize, is that mechanical (structural)
engineering is not nearly as neat and tidy as electrical engineering is.
Nearly every project is a tangled ball of twine without a straightforward
solution. Unlike electrical components, mechanical components often can't
be modeled with simple equations. Electrical engineers moan when faced with
transmission line or antenna design because every component effects every
other component in a non-linear manner. These non-linear problems are
typical for mechanical engineers. You can calculate the voltage and current
with great accuracy in every part of a very complex circuit, but you can
only take an educated guess as to the stress distribution in a crankshaft.
Even with the best stress analysis software, you know the answer is
probably no better than plus or minus 10%.
Unlike electrical engineers, mechanical engineers are not upset
when they cannot have an exact solution. They are not upset with what they
know is a crappy solution, as long as they are confident that the solution
is within safe bounds and probably won't fail. They are comfortable with a
percentage of uncertainty, because they have no choice.
Since you are working on a mechanical project, you must cultivate
a more relaxed attitude towards an unavoidable degree of uncertainty.
Bill Dube'
I have a degree in mechanical engineering, and very nearly a degree in
electrical engineering, so I am uniquely qualified to understand your
dilemma. I can take the persecutive of either (or both) type of engineer.
Check out my LED position lights at
<http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm>
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Re: rv-7 vibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Another source of vibration is the alternator and its drive system. You
might have a poorly balanced armature, a bad pulley, or a bad belt. Remember
it is turning 6000 to 9000 rpm depending on your alternator pulley.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: rv-7 vibration
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Is the prop on the correct index bushing? Track the prop and make sure the
> tips are with in spec. Engine mount bolts tight from the engine to the
> mount and the mount to the fire wall? I know a guy who bought a
prop/engine
> combo and the prop vibrated badly. He checked the tip run out and what he
> found made him go out and buy a new prop!!! Oh, and yes, his vibration
went
> away.
>
> At 04:36 PM 5/24/2004 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Sabswbc@aol.com
> >
> >My rv-7 has a 200 hp with constant speed prop. It has dual electronis
> >ignition and fuel injection and of course, it is very fast. Here is the
> >problem, the
> >plane has a vibration that i cannot find. It shakes thestick and can be
felt
> >throughout the plane. The vibration increases slightly as the RMP
> >decreases. I
> >have expended the exhaust, balanced the prop and check all control
surfaces
> >and still the shack. All the other RV's i have flown have fixed pitch
> >props snd
> >less HP. Any idears .
> >
> >Sam Butler
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Re:New Electronic Instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <martin.hone@tradergroup.com.au>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Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: LASAR Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Harry Fenton still will answer mag questions... gippsaero@charter.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: LASAR Problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
<alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley@fuse.net>
> >
> > I have my RV6 completed and ready to fly. I have an 0-360
> > with LASAR installed by Lycoming. I've run into a problem
> > with the LH magneto not firing and have been in contact with
> > Unison, who have been very helpful but have run out of
> > suggestions. Harry Fenton is no longer with Unison.
> >
> >
> > The P-Leads for LH and RH switches go to my panel and are
> > terminated in toggle switches to ground. They are identical
> > in setup. On run up, I shut off the LH Mag and the engine
> > keeps running. The enunciator light comes on telling me I'm
> > in backup mode. I turn the LH mag back to run, and shut off
> > the RH Mag. The engine immediately dies. I've checked out
> > the wiring from the LASAR controller to the instrument panel
> > and to ground. It is correct and shows the wire is open
> > until the toggle switch goes to off.
> >
> >
> > Unison said I must have timed the LH mag wrong. The timing kit (for
> > LASAR) shows that the RH and LH mags are synchronized, both
> > going on a 25 degrees BTC. I removed the LH mag, put in the
> > pin, reinstalled the mag with the engine at 25 degrees BTC,
> > removed the pin, and secured the mag. On start up and
> > checkout, same response. I completely disconnected the
> > ground shield from the LH mag with no change. I then
> > disconnected the ground shield and the connector to the
> > controller, again no change in response. In my
> > understanding, there should be nothing grounding the mag at
> > this point, but the engine still shuts down with RH mag off.
> >
> >
> > Unison said I did all the troubleshooting they could think
> > off, and to send them back the LH mag. I did so and they
> > quickly tested it. No problem found was their response this
> > morning. They are sending me back a new mag, however.
> >
> >
> > What do I do next after the new unit returns? If nothing is
> > changed, I doubt that the results will be any different. A
> > fellow RV builder loaned me his induction timing light to
> > check that the LH mag is giving out spark. Unison's last
> > note was to check the drive gear for the LH mag, make sure it
> > is installed and in the correct position to drive the mag. I
> > assume he means inside the accessory case. I have the
> > Lycoming manual. Can this gear be seen and removed with the
> > aft case installed.
> >
> >
> > I don't know how it could be out of position and mag still
> > turn so that the timing kit still show the "Sensor BKR PT"
> > light go on (LH Mag) at the right angle point. I would think
> > this is telling me that the mag is turning.
> >
> >
> > Spark plugs.. as delivered with the engine, REM38. I've
> > removed the top four and had desiccant plugs installed for a
> > couple of years. But the LH mag uses only two of the top
> > plugs, not all four, so if they have become defective, I'd
> > thought I would have seen it on the RH mag response as well.
> >
> >
> > Stymied..
> >
> >
> > Duane Bentley
>
> Duane,
>
> I had this happen after about 380 hours. The left mag simply croaked.
> I believe it was something electronic inside, and not the typical
> mechanical stuff mags do. Unison sent me a new replacement, free of
> charge, even though I had flown the plane for two years. I don't
> exactly have a warm, fuzzy feeling about the system any more, but Unison
> is standing behind it. The fact that they sent me a new one without
> even getting the old one first tells me that they might have a
> not-so-infrequent problem with something in there. They may be
> suspecting something flaky in yours, if it tested ok but they are
> sending you a new one anyway.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 472 hours
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: RPM "Wandering" |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca>
> I can see that the engine RPM wanders up and down 20 to 30 RPM with no
> throttle, mixture, or altitude/attitude change...I firmly locked the
> throttle and mixture so they couldn't move and the rather slow movement
> still continued...using dual electronic ignition system....the drift in
RPM
> occurs over a four or five minute period typically.
Not sure if we are talking about a fixed pitch prop here but you didn't
mention otherwise. With my fixed pitch prop, conventional mags and digital
tach I find my RPM varies a bit too. I have always figured this is an
example of a digital gauge providing a little too much information.
Thirty RPM of variation is only around +/- one percent. That slight of a
variation might be hard to see on an analog tachometer, but easy to notice
on a digital one. Five minutes is a fairly long time constant - around
sixteen miles at cruise speeds.I would think that over five minutes, or
sixteen miles, there is going to be some kind of variation in the air mass
we are flying through - air temperature, pressure, vertical velocity, etc.
That variability will either affect the engine directly or else cause our
altitude to vary slightly. As we notice the altitude change we would
instinctively adjust the attitude of the aircraft to keep our altitude
constant, and with the slight change in angle of attack, our speed, and RPM
in the case of a fixed pitch prop, would vary slightly. Or the autopilot
will make the same correction for us and all we would notice would be the
RPM slowly changing. This kind of attitude/RPM relationship is pretty
obvious if you are flying through summer thermals, but it must exist in
every air mass to a certain extent.
I have done about twenty 4-way GPS speed runs in my airplane (RV-6 O-320),
and I find that nailing an altitude and digital RPM around a five mile box
with a fixed pitch prop is really hard. The best I can manage while leaving
the throttle and mixture locked is about +/-20 RPM. In cruise I seldom try
to set the RPM exactly. I just find a suitable setting based on fuel flow
and let the RPM wander where it will.
If we are talking about a constant speed prop, the above could still happen
depending on how accurately the govenor tracks a set RPM. There could be a
bit of hysteresis or error in the system. Since I have no experience with CS
props I'll stop there.
cheers,
Curt Reimer
RV-6 C-GACR
140 hours
Message 51
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| Subject: | RV-4 elevator to horiz stab fitting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Stoffel <rickstoffel@sbcglobal.net>
Hello all,
This has me stumped and I couldn' t find this exact situation in the archives.
. .
When fitting my elevators to the HS Stab, I can only rotate the rod end bearings
about 3-4 times into the nutplates to make everything fit perfectly. Any more
rotations and the elevators begin to move too far forward and the weighted
arm sticks out in front of the Horizontal Stab.
It seems like a longer version of the HEIM 3614M bearing would be the best choice
to solve this but I can't find one (or an equivelant if there is one). I'm
guessing 3-4 rotations into the bearing is not enough, is it?
Thanks,
Rick
Message 52
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| Subject: | RV-4 elevator to horiz stab fitting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I had to relieve the HS about 1/4" or 3/8 " to clear the elevators on my
RV-8. Maybe the same on the 4.......
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 finishing....
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard Stoffel [mailto:rickstoffel@sbcglobal.net]
> Sent: Monday, May 24, 2004 11:04 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-4 elevator to horiz stab fitting problem
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Stoffel
> --> <rickstoffel@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Hello all,
>
> This has me stumped and I couldn' t find this exact situation
> in the archives. . .
>
> When fitting my elevators to the HS Stab, I can only rotate
> the rod end bearings about 3-4 times into the nutplates to
> make everything fit perfectly. Any more rotations and the
> elevators begin to move too far forward and the weighted arm
> sticks out in front of the Horizontal Stab.
>
> It seems like a longer version of the HEIM 3614M bearing
> would be the best choice to solve this but I can't find one
> (or an equivelant if there is one). I'm guessing 3-4
> rotations into the bearing is not enough, is it?
>
> Thanks,
> Rick
Message 53
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|
| Subject: | when problems are problems, and when they're not |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brett Morawski" <brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
Just another mechanical (automotive) engineer & builder checking in here.
Bill's comments below about mechanical engineering are right on the money.
The anal retentive engineer in me has caused me to do things like calculate
the load on the wing main spars, measure the parts, create CAD models and
run hand calculations and FEA analysis on them to see if there is any
difference in stress concentration if holes in the spar are countersunk
slightly too deep. Stupid, but I had to do it to shut up that little
bastard engineer in my head.
When designing cars we base all of our designs on what is working in the
real world. Such and such part is working on 800,000 cars right now with no
warranty issues. If new designs don't exceed the stress levels of those
parts (and are made of the same material and run in a similar application)
then the new design will live. Same logic applies to RV's - thousands are
in the air and not falling apart, and it's safe to assume that not all have
been built to the highest level of craftsmanship. Aluminum aircraft design
is pretty forgiving when it comes to a few bad rivets or edges that weren't
perfectly deburred. Almost all of our planes will far exceed the level of
craftsmanship that comes of out any factory.
Anyway - I tell you what I tell myself: It's a proven design, build it to
the plans (when the plans are right), do good work but don't kick yourself
in the head if one rivet is over-driven by .001", and everything will be
fine.
Brett Morawski
Toledo, OH
RV-8A, wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Dube
Subject: Re: RV-List: when problems are problems, and when they're not
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
>
>Can anyone recommend a book on aircraft structural engineering for
>people whose eyes glaze over when they see greek letters in equations? I
>don't mean an "acceptable repair methods" kind of thing: I'd really like
>to be able to visualize the stresses in the airframe, so I can
>understand why Van designed it the way he did.
Marks' Mechanical Engineers' Handbook (McGraw-Hill)
Older editions of Marks' are better than newer editions, in my
opinion.
Once you have the basics of beam theory under control, you might
wish to get a demo copy of ANSYS. http://www.ansys.com/ansys/designspace.htm
You can then see how the stresses actually distribute. You will
discover that, near the ends, beams don't behave like anything resembling
beam theory.
What you will come to realize, is that mechanical (structural)
engineering is not nearly as neat and tidy as electrical engineering is.
Nearly every project is a tangled ball of twine without a straightforward
solution. Unlike electrical components, mechanical components often can't
be modeled with simple equations. Electrical engineers moan when faced with
transmission line or antenna design because every component effects every
other component in a non-linear manner. These non-linear problems are
typical for mechanical engineers. You can calculate the voltage and current
with great accuracy in every part of a very complex circuit, but you can
only take an educated guess as to the stress distribution in a crankshaft.
Even with the best stress analysis software, you know the answer is
probably no better than plus or minus 10%.
Unlike electrical engineers, mechanical engineers are not upset
when they cannot have an exact solution. They are not upset with what they
know is a crappy solution, as long as they are confident that the solution
is within safe bounds and probably won't fail. They are comfortable with a
percentage of uncertainty, because they have no choice.
Since you are working on a mechanical project, you must cultivate
a more relaxed attitude towards an unavoidable degree of uncertainty.
Bill Dube'
I have a degree in mechanical engineering, and very nearly a degree in
electrical engineering, so I am uniquely qualified to understand your
dilemma. I can take the persecutive of either (or both) type of engineer.
Check out my LED position lights at
<http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm>
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