Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:47 AM - Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay (Warren Hurd)
2. 03:36 AM - Re: I gotta Rocket!!!! (Jim Sears)
3. 05:26 AM - Re: Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay (Brian Kraut)
4. 06:24 AM - Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com (Brian Denk)
5. 06:45 AM - rv-8 seats for sale (GB)
6. 06:51 AM - AD's & SB's (Bill VonDane)
7. 07:21 AM - Desert flight (Wheeler North)
8. 08:22 AM - Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
9. 08:30 AM - Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not (Ross Schlotthauer)
10. 08:58 AM - Re: I gotta Rocket!!!! (Mike Robertson)
11. 08:58 AM - Re: AD's & SB's (Mike Robertson)
12. 09:20 AM - Re: Are parts/accessories from Van's Really Cheaper? (DAVID REEL)
13. 09:58 AM - Sterba Wood Prop For Sale (Bill VonDane)
14. 10:43 AM - Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
15. 10:58 AM - Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay (Bill Dube)
16. 11:52 AM - Questions For An Overhaul Shop (Laird Owens)
17. 12:40 PM - Re: Questions For An Overhaul Shop (Hal / Carol Kempthorne)
18. 01:14 PM - Re: Re; Electrical failure, was All Glass (Bob)
19. 01:14 PM - Re: Predrilled holes (Bob)
20. 01:14 PM - Re: Low Fuel Pressure (Bob)
21. 01:18 PM - Re: Questions For An Overhaul Shop (John Huft)
22. 01:38 PM - Re: Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG))
23. 02:33 PM - Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com (Charlie England)
24. 02:37 PM - Dimpling nit-niods (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
25. 03:32 PM - Re: Dimpling nit-niods (Brian Denk)
26. 03:32 PM - Re: Dimpling nit-niods (Richard Tasker)
27. 03:47 PM - Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug (Dan Checkoway)
28. 04:27 PM - Re: Predrilled holes (Jim Jewell)
29. 04:30 PM - Re: Low Fuel Pressure (Louis Willig)
30. 05:06 PM - Re: Dimpling nit-niods (Charlie Kuss)
31. 05:11 PM - Re: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
32. 05:19 PM - Re: Low Fuel Pressure <6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510@mail.brier.net> (Ross Scroggs)
33. 05:23 PM - Re: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug (MMcs139808@aol.com)
34. 06:15 PM - Breather Hose (Amit Dagan)
35. 07:04 PM - Re: Dimpling nit-niods (Pat Hatch)
36. 07:06 PM - Re: Breather Hose (Jim Jewell)
37. 07:09 PM - Re: Low Fuel Pressure <6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510@mail.brier.net> (MikeReiman@webtv.net (The Reiman Corporation))
38. 07:25 PM - Re: Low Fuel Pressure <6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510@mail.brier.net> (Jerry Springer)
39. 07:28 PM - Re: Breather Hose (Randy Lervold)
40. 07:31 PM - Re: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug (Skylor Piper)
41. 08:10 PM - > Re: Breather Hose (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
42. 08:19 PM - Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com (Scott Vanartsdalen)
43. 08:23 PM - Airplane paintshop (Bobby Hester)
44. 08:24 PM - Re: Breather Hose (Hal / Carol Kempthorne)
45. 08:37 PM - Fw: LED flashlights (David Carter)
46. 08:48 PM - Re: I gotta Rocket!!!! (John Danielson)
47. 08:59 PM - Reminder - Langley Fly-in (Tedd McHenry)
48. 09:28 PM - FW: And When the Holes Don't Line Up? (Kathleen (rv7))
49. 09:31 PM - Re: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug (Dan Checkoway)
50. 09:34 PM - Re: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug (Dan Checkoway)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: Warren Hurd <warren@ahyup.com>
The 1 watt Luxeon Star LED is bright, they also have three and five watt
LED's. I have bought a couple of flashlights with the Luxeon LED's They
are truly amazing. I have thought of using a series of them for landing
lights. A series of three watt LED arrays in the leading edge would
give 648 lumens, and a retro fighter effect. Then a low level run
with the "guns" a blazing would make quite an effect. LED's unlike HID's
can blink very fast. Here is a link to a flashlight with the type of
optic I was considering.
http://elektrolumens.com/Tri_Star_Phazer/Tri-Star-Phazer.html
Warren
90454
htttp://ahyup.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: I gotta Rocket!!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
Oh, those who would buy if they could find one, for instance? We don't know
of any of those, do we? :-)
Jim in KY
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: I gotta Rocket!!!!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
> Have them DONE? Who is having them Done for them? HUh? HUH? Who??
>
> Das Fed ;-)
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE......Please!!
>
>
> >From: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: I gotta Rocket!!!!
> >Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 14:50:04 -0400
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> >
> >
> > > Well Mike, you have to realize...
> > >
> > > "They" ARE, better than "Us" (speaking as an RV-4 guy and wishin' I
had
> >a
> >Rocket, but not the added expense).
> > > ... and what are you referring to as "good natured fun" ? :-}
> > > Chuck
> >
> >Well, I like to think that they just think they're better than us. :-)
> >Most likely, it's just that they have more money to throw at their
> >projects,
> >whether they do them or have them done. I don't think any of us have
> >anything to be ashamed of. :-)
> >
> >Jim in KY
> >do not archive
> >
> >
>
> download! http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
I probably have more hours into developing LED landing lights than about
anybody out there. I have run a lot of light level tests and tried about
every kind of optic there is including some custom made optics. I have
found that the Luxeon's numbers don't quite add up. The problem is that
they don't dissipate heat effectively from the die to the heat sink and the
light level drops off dramaticaly as soon as the die temperature comes up,
whis is almost instantly. When you do a lot of testing you also find that
the 3 and 5W Luxeons don't really give a much brighter beam than the 1W,
again because of the temperature problems.
The Luxeon looks bright until you turn it off and then turn on a GE 4509
100W landing light. That is when you realize that the Luxeon isn't even in
the same league as the GE bulb. I compared an array of nine Luxeons with
CAD Research reflectors against the GE.
I am currently working with some newer LED technologies that show some
promise. I have 30 or 40 1W Luxeon stars if anyone wants them for $5.00
each, minimum quantity 5.
In the meantime, take a look at my fiber optic instrument lights at
www.engalt.com/aviation.htm. I have recently changed to a much brighter LED
light source. I am buying a special LED from Korea with four LED dice in
one package. The current draw is now 75mA and the light source is under
half the size. I have not had a chance to take new pictures and put them on
the web site yet. Wicks also carries them and will have the newer light
sources in a few days. http://www.jpmaircraftinstruments.com also has them.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Warren Hurd
Subject: RV-List: Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay
--> RV-List message posted by: Warren Hurd <warren@ahyup.com>
The 1 watt Luxeon Star LED is bright, they also have three and five watt
LED's. I have bought a couple of flashlights with the Luxeon LED's They
are truly amazing. I have thought of using a series of them for landing
lights. A series of three watt LED arrays in the leading edge would
give 648 lumens, and a retro fighter effect. Then a low level run
with the "guns" a blazing would make quite an effect. LED's unlike HID's
can blink very fast. Here is a link to a flashlight with the type of
optic I was considering.
http://elektrolumens.com/Tri_Star_Phazer/Tri-Star-Phazer.html
Warren
90454
htttp://ahyup.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>Anybody else getting unsolicited email from www.SportFlyingShop.com
>after visiting their website.
>
>I am pretty sure I did NOT sign up for anything, just had a brief look
>after I read an email here on the list.
>
>Darn anyoing, I know I won't visit their site anymore.
>
>Gert
>--
Yes! They planted spyware or something on our PC's. Common marketing ploy
nowadays. Annoying indeed.
Screw 'em.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
do not archive
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 5
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|
| Subject: | rv-8 seats for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: GB <microsys@alltel.net>
Hello,
Posting for a friend:
front and back seats for an RV-8, used less than 40 hours. Vinyl
construction, light gray,
excellent condition. Selling because upgraded to leather.
$150 plus shipping.
please respond to: skykingrv8@mchsi.com
Thanks,
Glen
Moultrie, GA
Message 6
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|
rv8list@yahoogroups.com, RV10@yahoogroups.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Just wondering if anyone has already complied a list of the applicable ADs &
SBs for the O320?
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
do not archive
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Well,
that low, fast flight in the desert may all be good and fun, but not only
can you not remember your name, or the horse's name, but its a real bitch
trying to scare the fish out of the local ponds.
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Bill Dube wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
> I noticed that someone is selling LED position lights on Ebay:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479464181&category=26438
>
> Quite a bit more money than the LED Position Light kits that I sell:
> http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
>
> Has anyone seen the ones on Ebay in person? Anyone know anything about
them?
>
> Bill Dube'
I have yours and I like the lite yours puts out better. Even the pictures of yours
and the EBAY
ones shows yours to have a better concentration of light in all directions. plus
the fact that
the cost of his would buy four or five sets of yours...
Phil
Message 9
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| Subject: | when problems are problems, and when they're not |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
Jeff,
If you want a good broad based understanding of all structures that isn't
too technical, I would recommend "Structures: Or, Why Things Don't Fall
Down". You can get it from Amazon for about 13 bucks. The ISBN =
0306801515. I think you would enjoy reading it and it may help you to
understand some of the basic stuctural theories.
-Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 wiring
www.experimentalair.com
>From: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: when problems are problems, and when they're not
>Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 11:53:30 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>
>As I've been building this airplane, every few hours I run into
>something that's wrong. Maybe it's a rivet that's too close to the edge,
>maybe a place where I goofed and trimmed something to the wrong
>dimensions, and so on.
>
>When that happens, I e-mail Van's with a description of the thing, and
>sometimes a small picture, and get a prompt, helpful answer. Sometimes
>that answer is "it's fine, don't worry about it", and sometimes it's
>"yep, better replace it". Either answer is great 'cause it gets me back
>on track with the building.
>
>However, there's a problem. The problem is that I'm an engineer.
>
>Like most engineers, it really starts to bug me to work on something I
>don't understand. Unfortunately, I learned electrical and computer
>engineering, not aircraft structural engineering. That means my math's
>pretty weak and I couldn't calculate beam stresses to save my life.
>
>Right now, I'm getting this great practical education in what's right
>and what's wrong -- I goof, I find out if it's OK or not, and I learn --
>but an airplane is pretty complicated. At this rate it's going to take
>me 'till the next century of flight to screw up enough to understand
>this beast.
>
>Can anyone recommend a book on aircraft structural engineering for
>people whose eyes glaze over when they see greek letters in equations? I
>don't mean an "acceptable repair methods" kind of thing: I'd really like
>to be able to visualize the stresses in the airframe, so I can
>understand why Van designed it the way he did.
>
>thanks,
>Jeff
>
>
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: I gotta Rocket!!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
OOOOOOOHHHHHHHHH!!!
Mike
DO NOT ARCHIVE
>From: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: I gotta Rocket!!!!
>Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 06:29:48 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
>
>Oh, those who would buy if they could find one, for instance? We don't
>know
>of any of those, do we? :-)
>
>Jim in KY
>do not archive
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: I gotta Rocket!!!!
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> >
> > Have them DONE? Who is having them Done for them? HUh? HUH? Who??
> >
> > Das Fed ;-)
> >
> > DO NOT ARCHIVE......Please!!
> >
> >
> > >From: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: I gotta Rocket!!!!
> > >Date: Tue, 25 May 2004 14:50:04 -0400
> > >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> > >
> > >
> > > > Well Mike, you have to realize...
> > > >
> > > > "They" ARE, better than "Us" (speaking as an RV-4 guy and wishin' I
>had
> > >a
> > >Rocket, but not the added expense).
> > > > ... and what are you referring to as "good natured fun" ? :-}
> > > > Chuck
> > >
> > >Well, I like to think that they just think they're better than us. :-)
> > >Most likely, it's just that they have more money to throw at their
> > >projects,
> > >whether they do them or have them done. I don't think any of us have
> > >anything to be ashamed of. :-)
> > >
> > >Jim in KY
> > >do not archive
> > >
> > >
> >
> > download! http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200413ave/direct/01/
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
I have every one of both should you need them. Drop me a line.
Mike Robertson
>From: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>, rv-list@matronics.com,
>rv8list@yahoogroups.com, RV10@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RV-List: AD's & SB's
>Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 07:49:51 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
>Just wondering if anyone has already complied a list of the applicable ADs
>&
>SBs for the O320?
>
>Thanks...
>
>-Bill VonDane
>EAA Tech Counselor
>RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
>www.vondane.com
>www.creativair.com
>www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>do not archive
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Are parts/accessories from Van's Really Cheaper? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I believe a handling charge is a fair way to recover the base costs of assembling,
packing, shipping and tracking an order that are insensitive to the order
size. For example, weighing, sealing, affixing a mailing label and postage, then
getting a box on the shipper's truck consume time and resources relatively
independent of the order size. Increasing item costs across the board to pay
for this unfairly peanalizes large orders at the expense of small orders although
many suppliers elect to do this to avoid the type of emotional reaction many
have to seeing a 55% increase in their order price.
Do not archive.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 13
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| Subject: | Sterba Wood Prop For Sale |
rv8list@yahoogroups.com, RV10@yahoogroups.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I just overhauled my engine and went from 150 HP to about 170 HP so I'm sure
I'll need a new prop...
I have a Sterba prop that I just had refinished... It's pitched for a 150 HP
O320 (68x72), is like new, and is setup for 7/16" prop bolts...
I love the prop, it's very smooth and quiet, and should be perfect for a 150
HP RV!
This prop is $525 new, so how about $425 including shipping?
Email: bill@vondane.com
Telephone: 719-510-0854
do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: when problems are problems, and when they're not |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Hi Jeff,
I too am an engineer. Imagine this: I started life as a mechanic. I was
putting new hubs in bicycle wheels in grade school. You know, with all the
spokes removed. Worked on cars (self taught) -- was rebuilding friends
transmissions (in the mid 50s) when I was 13. When it was time to go to college
I went
into EE because I thought mechanical engineering was too simple! Of course,
now I know better. But, it is interesting to read your posts because that's how
I think too.
I spent 8 years of my life racing stock cars and trying to figure out how the
"hillbillies" (no offense to anyone) could go just as fast as an engineer!
College educated engineers tend to think "in the box!" I recently talked to a
college student who was taking a course called "Thinking out of the box." I
told her that it was my impression that colleges were there to teach everyone
to think alike. Quite a dilemma!
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Engineered by Vans -- built by an engineer!)
In a message dated 5/25/04 1:47:14 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
rv-j@moriarti.org writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>
> Thanks for the info, everyone -- I'm developing quite a reading list!
>
> Yesterday, I was trying to put a little humor in my message and I think
> I might've given the wrong impression. I didn't mean to come across as
> complaining that I screw up too often. Actually, there are a couple
> things going on here.
>
> The first is building.
>
> One reason I'm building an airplane because I like to build things. I
> try not to make mistakes, but I'm a lot more used to working in wood
> than aluminum, so once in a while a mistake's going to happen. Also,
> every once in a great while I might come across a part that slipped in
> tooling or otherwise looks a little odd. When I see a mistake, or
> there's a strange looking part, I call Van's, find out whether or not
> it's a problem, and if it is, I replace the part. Some mistakes, like
> punching an extra hole in a skin, aren't structural problems. Since I'm
> not out to build a show plane, in that case I probably wouldn't be
> inclined to order a new skin. On the other hand, if it's a structural or
> longevity issue, I have no qualms about replacing the part.
>
> At the building level, I'm just fine working with Vans' recommendations
> and AC43-13.
>
> The second level is learning.
>
> Another reason I'm building an airplane is to learn how an airplane goes
> together -- and why. That's the level that's pushing me towards the
> books. When I got my pilots license, I had to learn the basics of how a
> pitot-static system works, how the fuel system works, etc. Now that I'm
> building a plane, I want to know the basics of how the structure works.
>
> Also, there are some really fundamental questions that've been nagging
> me, like why stress concentrates. What, mechanically, is going on at a
> stress riser? And how is it related to work hardening? You know, the
> kinds of questions you think about when you're deburring the thousandth
> hole of the day. :-)
>
> So, yeah, I probably should just tune the radio to a game and get on
> with building, but I'll probably wind up ordering some books and slowly
> working my way through them as I build.
>
> Anyway, thanks again for the recommendations!
>
> - Jeff
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
>I have yours and I like the lite yours puts out better. Even the pictures
>of yours and the EBAY
>ones shows yours to have a better concentration of light in all directions.
It is always hard to judge via pictures alone. That is why I asked
if anyone had seen them in person. There are very specific FAA requirements
for the light output at each angle along the horizon as well as in
elevation. Looking at the picture (and knowing the specs on the Luxeon
units) I'm not convinced that this fellow's lights meets the FAA
requirements, especially at the extreme angles. Again, I have made no
measurements, so I can't know for sure. I was hoping someone on the list
had actually seen these units first hand.
Apparently not.
> plus the fact that
>the cost of his would buy four or five sets of yours...
That is nice of you to say, but you could buy just 3 sets of of
mine for the price of his. :-) Actually, if you bought three sets all at
once, I'd give you a discount!
Bill Dube'
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
Message 16
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| Subject: | Questions For An Overhaul Shop |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
Hi all,
So much for having TOO much fun in the Bahamas last month.
After I got home from the trip, I changed the oil and found metal in
the oil filter. 950 TTSN, in 3 years. Lycoming confirmed it was
bearing material. %$#@!!! There were no symptoms during the last
flights, such as low oil pressure (75psi warm) or vibration. I had just
finished flying 45 hrs in the previous 2 weeks, with nothing in the
filter on the last oil change.
At this point I'm not interested in doing the overhaul myself, even
assisted, so I'm looking for a shop to do an overhaul to get back
flying.
Right now I've got some shops in my mind (including Aero Sport) but I'm
not quite sure how to approach them.
How do I approach these companies to compare prices to get an "apples
to apples comparison. I'm sure they'd want to look at the engine
before making any quote. I can't send them all the engine. I want to
make sure I look around to get a warm fuzzy when I end up sending it
someone and parting with the next 5 years of my expendable income.
Would asking them for a quote on their labor costs for a "standard"
(whatever that is) overhaul would be the right way to do it?. Or a
quote on an overhaul with all parts assumed good, like crankcase,
crank, cam, pistons and cylinders. (I know that there will be some
components that'll need replacing, but with a 1000hr motor since new,
there should be a lot of good parts, except what has been damaged from
the bearing giving up.)
Any other ideas?
Since this is the first experience with this kind of experience, any
suggestions would be welcomed.
TIA,
Laird RV-6
SoCal
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Questions For An Overhaul Shop |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 11:50 AM 5/26/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
>
>After I got home from the trip, I changed the oil and found metal in
>the oil filter. 950 TTSN, in 3 years. Lycoming confirmed it was
>bearing material. %$#@!!!
Laird, I'll give you some suggestions but you have to realize that while
I've overhauled more than 200 engines, none of them were aircraft.
First, the Lyc is composed of three 'sections'. The bottom end, the top
end and the accessory case. Do all of these need overhaul? Check first
for compressions. If they are good then maybe the bottom is all that is
really needed, especially since this engine is first run. Usually,
cylinders give out first don't they? Poor compression, burning oil etc are
usual reasons for overhaul from what I hear. Why is yours different?
Could it be due to frisky flying? Acro is hard on crankshaft bearings so
engines that do acro need bottom end work first. I assume you have been
good about changing oil, flying regularly etc.
If your cylinders chck out good then I would select a shop that others have
been satisfied with and talk to them about your special situation. If
cylinders are also weak you might as well shop for a full overhaul. There
are two kinds of overhauls (maybe more?). One is described as "to new
limits" and the other is "to service limits". I suspect you will want the
former which is also more expensive.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re; Electrical failure, was All Glass |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>Ok Bob, you have my curiosity aroused, all glass --- Bob's Z -.XX wiring ??
>
>How did the total electrical failure occur?
>
>George in Langley
George and All
It is funny how you remember things. I usually remember the good things,
in this case a successful landing, and then I forget the bad things, like
what caused it.
So it has taken some thought to reconstruct, but here goes:
1. My electrical system is one of Bob Nuckoll's design.
2. The problems were an intermittent charging system, after a while of
flying thinking everything is charging, then getting a low voltage
indicator, then at some point around 10 volts the RMI microencoder (all of
the flight instruments) quits.
3. Alternator was bench checked by an alternator rebuild shop, and no
problems.
4. Put alternator back in aircraft. Seemed to work fine during test flight.
5. A week later took off at night, at uncontrolled airfield, at lift off
microencoder went dark. To say it was a total electrical failure is a
point of debate. At that time I did not consciously check to see if the
radio, transponder, landing lights, strobe lights or nav lights or even the
GRT Engine monitor were working. They may or may not have been working, I
know that the microencoder drops out at 10 volts, I don't know about
everything else. But as far as I was concerned all flight instruments were
definitely not working. First priority was to safely fly the aircraft and
second priority was to land it.
6. Aircraft safely landed, absolutely no problem in good VFR conditions.
7. I had the alternator rechecked on the bench by a reputable rebuild shop
and all OK!
8. I fiddle around with rewiring this and that, and nothing seemed to fix
the problem.
9. Finally I bought a rebuilt alternator from Mark Landoll (for about $80)
and I have not had the problem since.
10. How did I fix it, I replaced a supposedly good alternator with a
rebuilt one!?!
11. This is not an endorsement to fly your aircraft without electrical
power or the required instruments. But, if your only options are crashing
or flying without electrics and instruments, then do the best you can with
what you have.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Predrilled holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
At 11:16 AM 5/24/04, you wrote:
>The real dead giveaway is the bitter builder standing next to it who can't
>seem to stop chanting, "I had to drill all the holes!" 8-)
I had to drill all the holes, and the next airplane that I build will be
plans built. Do they come with predrilled holes, or should I wait a few
years before I buy the plans?
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Pressure |
<6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510@mail.brier.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
Some of you really smart guys might be able to help me out on this one. I
am getting low fuel pressures during cruise flight. Normal fuel pressures
are 22-24 PSI without Aux boost pump and 26-27 PSI with boost pump on. Now
without the aux boost pump I get about 10-11 PSI in cruise, I get 24 PSI at
takeoff and landing. On the Sunday flight, when I had low pressures I
turned on the boost pump and pressures went back to the 24 PSI
range. Yesterday, after the PSI dropped, I turned on the boost pump,
pressure went back up to normal range, then slowly dropped back to 10-11
PSI. I turned the boost pump off and pressures dropped below 9 PSI.
Engine is a IO 360 A1A (180 hp), Bendix fuel injection, and airflow
performance boost pump with assembly (fuel return line/check valve) and
fuel filter. All this stuff is plumbed according to airflow's
instructions. The system has been working fine for the first 150
hours. Since the last annual, it has been acting funny. The only things
that I did to the fuel system during the annual was to clean the fuel
filter and to clean the finger screen in the fuel servo.
My mechanic said to fly and watch it, but I think now I need to do
something. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 21
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| Subject: | Questions For An Overhaul Shop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <rv8tor@lazy8.net>
Laird, you should just call Ken Tunnel at Lycon and ask him. In many
conversations, I never felt like I was getting anything but the straight
scoop from him.
Were you running high compression pistons?
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Laird Owens
Subject: RV-List: Questions For An Overhaul Shop
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
Hi all,
So much for having TOO much fun in the Bahamas last month.
After I got home from the trip, I changed the oil and found metal in
the oil filter. 950 TTSN, in 3 years. Lycoming confirmed it was
bearing material. %$#@!!! There were no symptoms during the last
flights, such as low oil pressure (75psi warm) or vibration. I had just
finished flying 45 hrs in the previous 2 weeks, with nothing in the
filter on the last oil change.
At this point I'm not interested in doing the overhaul myself, even
assisted, so I'm looking for a shop to do an overhaul to get back
flying.
Right now I've got some shops in my mind (including Aero Sport) but I'm
not quite sure how to approach them.
How do I approach these companies to compare prices to get an "apples
to apples comparison. I'm sure they'd want to look at the engine
before making any quote. I can't send them all the engine. I want to
make sure I look around to get a warm fuzzy when I end up sending it
someone and parting with the next 5 years of my expendable income.
Would asking them for a quote on their labor costs for a "standard"
(whatever that is) overhaul would be the right way to do it?. Or a
quote on an overhaul with all parts assumed good, like crankcase,
crank, cam, pistons and cylinders. (I know that there will be some
components that'll need replacing, but with a 1000hr motor since new,
there should be a lot of good parts, except what has been damaged from
the bearing giving up.)
Any other ideas?
Since this is the first experience with this kind of experience, any
suggestions would be welcomed.
TIA,
Laird RV-6
SoCal
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Interesting LED position lights on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
The Hyundai HCD-8 concept car and 2002 Ford Mighty F-350 Tonka concept
truck use LEDs for headlights. See
http://www.spectrum.ieee.org/WEBONLY/publicfeature/mar04/0304car.html
Frank
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Brian Denk wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>
>
>>Anybody else getting unsolicited email from www.SportFlyingShop.com
>>after visiting their website.
>>
>>I am pretty sure I did NOT sign up for anything, just had a brief look
>>after I read an email here on the list.
>>
>>Darn anyoing, I know I won't visit their site anymore.
>>
>>Gert
>>--
>>
>>
>
>Yes! They planted spyware or something on our PC's. Common marketing ploy
>nowadays. Annoying indeed.
>
>Screw 'em.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>RV10 '51
>
>do not archive
>
I've had good luck with Spybot software from:
http://www.safer-networking.org/index.php?page=download
It's free; the author just requests a donation of a few dollars to help
offset his bandwidth costs for making it available to the public.
I'm no computer genius; all I can say is that my 5 year old computer
seems to run a little faster since I let this software clean several
dozen spyware & adware programs off my hard drive.
Charlie
Message 24
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| Subject: | Dimpling nit-niods |
--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
I see occasional references to special dimple dies for the tank skins.
What's the difference standard 3-32 dimple dies and the tank skin dies?
Neal
RV-7 (emp, fitting tips)
Message 25
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| Subject: | Dimpling nit-niods |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>I see occasional references to special dimple dies for the tank skins.
>What's the difference standard 3-32 dimple dies and the tank skin dies?
>
>Neal
>RV-7 (emp, fitting tips)
The tank dies dimple deeper to allow for sealant under/around the rivet. I
didn't use them on my -8 tanks and some of the rivets stood up a bit proud
of the skin. The paint job blended them in quite nicely but I think the
tank dies would have made for a better finish all around.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Dimpling nit-niods |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
The dimple is a little larger to compensate for the proseal under the
rivet heads - leaving flush heads like normal.
Without this the heads will likely protrude a few thousandths above the
skin.
Dick Tasker
George Neal E Capt AU/PC wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
>
>I see occasional references to special dimple dies for the tank skins.
>What's the difference standard 3-32 dimple dies and the tank skin dies?
>
>Neal
>RV-7 (emp, fitting tips)
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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<SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> > Now the mag has become the 'just get us back home' accessory when the
> > electrons go TU.
>
> Which mine (Lightspeed Plasma II) did yesterday...will provide more info
> once I'm done debugging it...pretty sure it's just a very simple
> problem...in the process of figuring it out as we email...
Turned out to be a bum spark plug.
Yesterday, after a couple of hours of flying, I got roughness during runup
when running only on the Plasma II. Up until that point (93 hours), the LSI
system had been smooth as silk.
I figured it might have been plug fouling, so I did my best to lean and
clean it out on the ground. No joy. I made the call to fly it home in that
condition, essentially putting the onus on the Slick mag. Arguably a risky
decision, but I wanted to fly it to see if I could lean & clean it out
better in flight. I was very skeptical, though, because I fly normally on
the very lean side (usually 50 LOP unless I'm running hard, in which case 75
ROP). I had just flown an hour and a half, leaning aggressively, and I
seriously doubted it was fouling. Anyway, I decided to head home. I was in
the desert at the time, so viable off-airport landing options were
a-plenty... Made it home fine, obviously.
During the flight I periodically checked the LSI by switching off the mag,
and it continued to run rough. Felt like it was running on 3 cylinders,
sputtering and backfiring on one cylinder. EGTs and CHTs didn't really give
me any clues that I could pick up on, because I didn't want to run on the
LSI-only long enough to determine the EGT trend.
Once back at the hangar I removed the top cowl and pulled the plugs. They
looked normal. Tan in color, dry as a bone. I checked the gap, and I
noticed that the electrodes had eroded a bit and the gap had increased from
my original .032" setting to about .036". This shouldn't cause the problem,
though. Just for kicks, I regapped 'em to .032" and put the plugs back in.
Recowled, started up, ran up, and again the Lightspeed system ran rough.
The variables involved could have been the crank position sensor (loose,
shifted, etc.), the coils, spark plug wires, the "brain," the RG400 wires
running to the coils, etc. I figured if it was the crank sensor, I'd have
to pull the prop to double check the clearance with the flywheel magnets.
Why not replace the plugs first, just to rule that out?
My engine & Plasma II came with Denso W24EMR-C spark plugs, which is what
Klaus recommends for the system. He sells those inexpensively, but I tried
to find them locally. Good luck! No joy.
This morning I spoke with Klaus about it, and he confirmed that it could be
any number of the things I mentioned above, and that if I wanted to pop some
locally accessible (i.e. at an auto parts store) spark plugs in just to
troubleshoot, then the NGK 5422 (BR8ES) or 4221 (BR8ET) plugs would be ok to
use. He advised against keeping those in there, though, because he has seen
some trouble with NGK spark plugs. He recommended just buying some new
Denso plugs from him. Klaus said that he has tried all sorts of different
spark plugs but that the W24EMR-C and W27EMR-C (slightly cooler plug) are
what he uses on his own plane. I figured I'd give the NGK plugs a shot just
to see if plugs were the problem.
I drove to Kragen and picked up their last four NGK 5422s, and I also got an
inductive timing light while I was there...assuming that if changing the
plugs out didn't solve it, the next step would be to check the LSI timing on
each cylinder (LSI publishes a decent troubleshooting flow chart on
http://www.lightspeedengineering.com).
Long story short, replacing the plugs solved the problem. Again the system
ran smooth as silk (10 RPM drop during an 1800 RPM runup). I flew up to
Santa Paula and bought a new set of Denso spark plugs from Klaus. He had no
idea why a plug would go bad, especially if it looked fine and not fouled.
Anyway, I guess my real point in all of this is to say that if anybody else
is running a Lightspeed ignition on an IO-360, the NGK 5422 (BR8ES) seems
like a potentially viable substitute or spare for the Denso W24EMR-C plug,
should you ever get stranded and need an "auto parts store" plug in a pinch.
I flew 1.7 hours today on the NGKs and didn't fall out of the sky... I'm
going to keep the NGKs in my tool bag just in case.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Predrilled holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Bob,
I wouldn't wait, I can't see what use or advantage having all those holes in
the plans would be. {[B-)!
Happy drilling,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared3@brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Predrilled holes
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>
> At 11:16 AM 5/24/04, you wrote:
> >The real dead giveaway is the bitter builder standing next to it who
can't
> >seem to stop chanting, "I had to drill all the holes!" 8-)
>
> I had to drill all the holes, and the next airplane that I build will be
> plans built. Do they come with predrilled holes, or should I wait a few
> years before I buy the plans?
>
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Pressure |
<6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510@mail.brier.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net> <6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510@mail.brier.net>
At 04:30 PM 5/26/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>
><<Some of you really smart guys might be able to help me out on this one. I
>am getting low fuel pressures during cruise flight. Normal fuel pressures
>are 22-24 PSI without Aux boost pump and 26-27 PSI with boost pump on. Now
>without the aux boost pump I get about 10-11 PSI in cruise>>>,
Bob,
Sometimes I read posts such as yours and worry about the pilot continuing
to fly the plane with a problem such as this. I wouldn't get back into this
aircraft until I found the solution or, at least, found a way to check out
the problem without killing myself.
A few weeks ago I lost all power on take-off at about 500 feet off the
ground with no runway available. I was so busy flying, switching tanks and
looking for a landing spot that I didn't have a chance to get scared and
the adrenaline never did kick in. The problem was fuel starvation from a
faulty tank. The switch-over took a few seconds to reestablish fuel flow,
but everything went OK. If you have an impending fuel problem, find it
before you get into that plane. While some people will disagree with my
position, I will take safety over expedience in this situation.
Luigi
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Dimpling nit-niods |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Neal,
The tank dies set the dimple .007" deeper than the normal dimple dies. This is
to compensate for the film thickness of the ProSeal. Some folks find that using
the tank dies only on the under structure (ribs, stiffeners & rear baffle)
works best. I used them on my tanks. I had noted a lot of builders who didn't
use them, had rivets which stood proud of the skins. My tanks came out very nice.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
>
>I see occasional references to special dimple dies for the tank skins.
>What's the difference standard 3-32 dimple dies and the tank skin dies?
>
>Neal
>RV-7 (emp, fitting tips)
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Dan, I have run into plugs that were bad right out of the box so it can
happen.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
<SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > > Now the mag has become the 'just get us back home' accessory when the
> > > electrons go TU.
> >
> > Which mine (Lightspeed Plasma II) did yesterday...will provide more info
> > once I'm done debugging it...pretty sure it's just a very simple
> > problem...in the process of figuring it out as we email...
>
> Turned out to be a bum spark plug.
>
> Yesterday, after a couple of hours of flying, I got roughness during runup
> when running only on the Plasma II. Up until that point (93 hours), the
LSI
> system had been smooth as silk.
>
> I figured it might have been plug fouling, so I did my best to lean and
> clean it out on the ground. No joy. I made the call to fly it home in
that
> condition, essentially putting the onus on the Slick mag. Arguably a
risky
> decision, but I wanted to fly it to see if I could lean & clean it out
> better in flight. I was very skeptical, though, because I fly normally on
> the very lean side (usually 50 LOP unless I'm running hard, in which case
75
> ROP). I had just flown an hour and a half, leaning aggressively, and I
> seriously doubted it was fouling. Anyway, I decided to head home. I was
in
> the desert at the time, so viable off-airport landing options were
> a-plenty... Made it home fine, obviously.
>
> During the flight I periodically checked the LSI by switching off the mag,
> and it continued to run rough. Felt like it was running on 3 cylinders,
> sputtering and backfiring on one cylinder. EGTs and CHTs didn't really
give
> me any clues that I could pick up on, because I didn't want to run on the
> LSI-only long enough to determine the EGT trend.
>
> Once back at the hangar I removed the top cowl and pulled the plugs. They
> looked normal. Tan in color, dry as a bone. I checked the gap, and I
> noticed that the electrodes had eroded a bit and the gap had increased
from
> my original .032" setting to about .036". This shouldn't cause the
problem,
> though. Just for kicks, I regapped 'em to .032" and put the plugs back
in.
> Recowled, started up, ran up, and again the Lightspeed system ran rough.
>
> The variables involved could have been the crank position sensor (loose,
> shifted, etc.), the coils, spark plug wires, the "brain," the RG400 wires
> running to the coils, etc. I figured if it was the crank sensor, I'd have
> to pull the prop to double check the clearance with the flywheel magnets.
> Why not replace the plugs first, just to rule that out?
>
> My engine & Plasma II came with Denso W24EMR-C spark plugs, which is what
> Klaus recommends for the system. He sells those inexpensively, but I
tried
> to find them locally. Good luck! No joy.
>
> This morning I spoke with Klaus about it, and he confirmed that it could
be
> any number of the things I mentioned above, and that if I wanted to pop
some
> locally accessible (i.e. at an auto parts store) spark plugs in just to
> troubleshoot, then the NGK 5422 (BR8ES) or 4221 (BR8ET) plugs would be ok
to
> use. He advised against keeping those in there, though, because he has
seen
> some trouble with NGK spark plugs. He recommended just buying some new
> Denso plugs from him. Klaus said that he has tried all sorts of different
> spark plugs but that the W24EMR-C and W27EMR-C (slightly cooler plug) are
> what he uses on his own plane. I figured I'd give the NGK plugs a shot
just
> to see if plugs were the problem.
>
> I drove to Kragen and picked up their last four NGK 5422s, and I also got
an
> inductive timing light while I was there...assuming that if changing the
> plugs out didn't solve it, the next step would be to check the LSI timing
on
> each cylinder (LSI publishes a decent troubleshooting flow chart on
> http://www.lightspeedengineering.com).
>
> Long story short, replacing the plugs solved the problem. Again the
system
> ran smooth as silk (10 RPM drop during an 1800 RPM runup). I flew up to
> Santa Paula and bought a new set of Denso spark plugs from Klaus. He had
no
> idea why a plug would go bad, especially if it looked fine and not fouled.
>
> Anyway, I guess my real point in all of this is to say that if anybody
else
> is running a Lightspeed ignition on an IO-360, the NGK 5422 (BR8ES) seems
> like a potentially viable substitute or spare for the Denso W24EMR-C plug,
> should you ever get stranded and need an "auto parts store" plug in a
pinch.
> I flew 1.7 hours today on the NGKs and didn't fall out of the sky... I'm
> going to keep the NGKs in my tool bag just in case.
>
> Hope this helps,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Scroggs" <rv4ross@charter.net>
Bob,
Make sure your fuel tank vents are working properly, inducing a positive
pressure or at least not
a negative one. Sounds like your creating a negative pressure in the tank
that your drawing fuel
from while in flight but not while your on the ground.
Just a thought,
Ross Scroggs
RV4 #3911 Wings
Locust Grove, Ga.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared3@brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Low Fuel Pressure
<6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510@mail.brier.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
>
> Some of you really smart guys might be able to help me out on this one. I
> am getting low fuel pressures during cruise flight. Normal fuel pressures
> are 22-24 PSI without Aux boost pump and 26-27 PSI with boost pump on.
Now
> without the aux boost pump I get about 10-11 PSI in cruise, I get 24 PSI
at
> takeoff and landing. On the Sunday flight, when I had low pressures I
> turned on the boost pump and pressures went back to the 24 PSI
> range. Yesterday, after the PSI dropped, I turned on the boost pump,
> pressure went back up to normal range, then slowly dropped back to 10-11
> PSI. I turned the boost pump off and pressures dropped below 9 PSI.
>
> Engine is a IO 360 A1A (180 hp), Bendix fuel injection, and airflow
> performance boost pump with assembly (fuel return line/check valve) and
> fuel filter. All this stuff is plumbed according to airflow's
> instructions. The system has been working fine for the first 150
> hours. Since the last annual, it has been acting funny. The only things
> that I did to the fuel system during the annual was to clean the fuel
> filter and to clean the finger screen in the fuel servo.
>
> My mechanic said to fly and watch it, but I think now I need to do
> something. Any ideas would be appreciated.
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug |
--> RV-List message posted by: MMcs139808@aol.com
Dan
I have had bad plugs out of the box in the motor (auto) trade on a couple of
occasions.
Eugene
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
Folks,
What temp. does the breather hose need to withstand?
Thanks,
Amit.
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Dimpling nit-niods |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
The tank dimple dies create a slightly deeper dimple, presumably to offset
the Proseal that will seal the base of the rivet. I have found them useful
for other purposes too, such as when you are nesting several dimples.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 All Flying
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Neal E Capt AU/PC" <Neal.George@maxwell.af.mil>
Subject: RV-List: Dimpling nit-niods
> --> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC
<Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
>
> I see occasional references to special dimple dies for the tank skins.
> What's the difference standard 3-32 dimple dies and the tank skin dies?
>
> Neal
> RV-7 (emp, fitting tips)
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Breather Hose |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Amit,
Hopefully, the highest temps that the breather hose will have to survive
should happen during hot soaking (just after engine shut down).
My 'guess' is that temp might reach to the area about 300 + degrees F. for a
short while just after shut down. I'm sure others can give a tested result.
Oil and chemical resistant hose such as that used for automotive heater hose
will stand higher heat than that and stand up quite well and long for the
task. As suggested by others before I just hit the auto supply shop and
bought a length with lots of pre-formed bends to use with some aluminum
tubing to make that hose go where it should.
Keep on building,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Breather Hose
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
>
> Folks,
> What temp. does the breather hose need to withstand?
> Thanks,
> Amit.
>
>
Message 37
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15:30:55 -0500
--> RV-List message posted by: MikeReiman@webtv.net (The Reiman Corporation)
Dear RV6 owner,
I'm an A&P....... Get another mechanic if he just tells you,"To watch
it".
This is what I would do in this order:
1. Swap out or replace fuel caps..... Vent might be clogged in one, and
that could be enough to do it. Cheap fix.
2. Call factory service rep., and ask if other's have had this problem
and what their fix was.
3. Check the filter element you opened, and look very carefully for any
folded over or cracked sealed areas around it.
I don't own an RV, but as your basic A&P I hope that helps you. Like to
know where you are....? I'm in Florida.
Oh, Please let me know of any Grumman Tigers for sale...! That would be
great.
Soft Landings,
Mike Reiman
The Reiman Corporation, CEO
2505 South Ocean Boulevard
Palm Beach, Florida 33480
Message 38
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15":30:55.-0500@matronics.com
15:30:55 -0500
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
The Reiman Corporation wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: MikeReiman@webtv.net (The Reiman Corporation)
>
>Dear RV6 owner,
>
>I'm an A&P....... Get another mechanic if he just tells you,"To watch
>it".
>
>This is what I would do in this order:
>
>1. Swap out or replace fuel caps..... Vent might be clogged in one, and
>that could be enough to do it. Cheap fix.
>
>2. Call factory service rep., and ask if other's have had this problem
>and what their fix was.
>
>3. Check the filter element you opened, and look very carefully for any
>folded over or cracked sealed areas around it.
>
>I don't own an RV, but as your basic A&P I hope that helps you. Like to
>know where you are....? I'm in Florida.
>
>Oh, Please let me know of any Grumman Tigers for sale...! That would be
>great.
>
>Soft Landings,
>
>Mike Reiman
>The Reiman Corporation, CEO
>2505 South Ocean Boulevard
>Palm Beach, Florida 33480
>
>
>
>
Mike
The best thing for you to buy is a "VanGrumman" that is what a lot of
taildragger drivers call the nose gear RVs. :-)
do not archive
Jerry
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Breather Hose |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Not very hot, I used rubber radiator hose sourced from the local auto parts
store with no ill effects for 368 hours.
Randy Lervold
> Folks,
> What temp. does the breather hose need to withstand?
> Thanks,
> Amit.
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug |
--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
You need to learn to read your EGT's on the engine
analyzer. That should show you exactly which cylinder
is missing when you do a mag check! If you do a LOP
mag check, you should always see a small rise in EGT's
when swiching from both mags/EI to one or the other.
If you don't get a rise on a particular cylinder, or
it drops, you know that one is missing.
--- Dan Checkoway <dan@rvproject.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > > Now the mag has become the 'just get us back
> home' accessory when the
> > > electrons go TU.
> >
> > Which mine (Lightspeed Plasma II) did
> yesterday...will provide more info
> > once I'm done debugging it...pretty sure it's just
> a very simple
> > problem...in the process of figuring it out as we
> email...
>
> Turned out to be a bum spark plug.
>
> Yesterday, after a couple of hours of flying, I got
> roughness during runup
> when running only on the Plasma II. Up until that
> point (93 hours), the LSI
> system had been smooth as silk.
>
> I figured it might have been plug fouling, so I did
> my best to lean and
> clean it out on the ground. No joy. I made the
> call to fly it home in that
> condition, essentially putting the onus on the Slick
> mag. Arguably a risky
> decision, but I wanted to fly it to see if I could
> lean & clean it out
> better in flight. I was very skeptical, though,
> because I fly normally on
> the very lean side (usually 50 LOP unless I'm
> running hard, in which case 75
> ROP). I had just flown an hour and a half, leaning
> aggressively, and I
> seriously doubted it was fouling. Anyway, I decided
> to head home. I was in
> the desert at the time, so viable off-airport
> landing options were
> a-plenty... Made it home fine, obviously.
>
> During the flight I periodically checked the LSI by
> switching off the mag,
> and it continued to run rough. Felt like it was
> running on 3 cylinders,
> sputtering and backfiring on one cylinder. EGTs and
> CHTs didn't really give
> me any clues that I could pick up on, because I
> didn't want to run on the
> LSI-only long enough to determine the EGT trend.
>
> Once back at the hangar I removed the top cowl and
> pulled the plugs. They
> looked normal. Tan in color, dry as a bone. I
> checked the gap, and I
> noticed that the electrodes had eroded a bit and the
> gap had increased from
> my original .032" setting to about .036". This
> shouldn't cause the problem,
> though. Just for kicks, I regapped 'em to .032" and
> put the plugs back in.
> Recowled, started up, ran up, and again the
> Lightspeed system ran rough.
>
> The variables involved could have been the crank
> position sensor (loose,
> shifted, etc.), the coils, spark plug wires, the
> "brain," the RG400 wires
> running to the coils, etc. I figured if it was the
> crank sensor, I'd have
> to pull the prop to double check the clearance with
> the flywheel magnets.
> Why not replace the plugs first, just to rule that
> out?
>
> My engine & Plasma II came with Denso W24EMR-C spark
> plugs, which is what
> Klaus recommends for the system. He sells those
> inexpensively, but I tried
> to find them locally. Good luck! No joy.
>
> This morning I spoke with Klaus about it, and he
> confirmed that it could be
> any number of the things I mentioned above, and that
> if I wanted to pop some
> locally accessible (i.e. at an auto parts store)
> spark plugs in just to
> troubleshoot, then the NGK 5422 (BR8ES) or 4221
> (BR8ET) plugs would be ok to
> use. He advised against keeping those in there,
> though, because he has seen
> some trouble with NGK spark plugs. He recommended
> just buying some new
> Denso plugs from him. Klaus said that he has tried
> all sorts of different
> spark plugs but that the W24EMR-C and W27EMR-C
> (slightly cooler plug) are
> what he uses on his own plane. I figured I'd give
> the NGK plugs a shot just
> to see if plugs were the problem.
>
> I drove to Kragen and picked up their last four NGK
> 5422s, and I also got an
> inductive timing light while I was there...assuming
> that if changing the
> plugs out didn't solve it, the next step would be to
> check the LSI timing on
> each cylinder (LSI publishes a decent
> troubleshooting flow chart on
> http://www.lightspeedengineering.com).
>
> Long story short, replacing the plugs solved the
> problem. Again the system
> ran smooth as silk (10 RPM drop during an 1800 RPM
> runup). I flew up to
> Santa Paula and bought a new set of Denso spark
> plugs from Klaus. He had no
> idea why a plug would go bad, especially if it
> looked fine and not fouled.
>
> Anyway, I guess my real point in all of this is to
> say that if anybody else
> is running a Lightspeed ignition on an IO-360, the
> NGK 5422 (BR8ES) seems
> like a potentially viable substitute or spare for
> the Denso W24EMR-C plug,
> should you ever get stranded and need an "auto parts
> store" plug in a pinch.
> I flew 1.7 hours today on the NGKs and didn't fall
> out of the sky... I'm
> going to keep the NGKs in my tool bag just in case.
>
> Hope this helps,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: > Re: Breather Hose |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I used the same rubber hose as the others and I put abouy 3" of aluminum
tubing in the end so I could run it against the exhaust pipe. Within 1/8" anyway.
That bakes all the oily fumes to ashes.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I ran a scan of my system before I visted their site and afterwared. They didn't
download so much as a cookie to my machine. I'm only running the standard
firewall that comes with WinXP.
However, there are a lot of unscrupulous websites out there. Remember, when a
website displays a box that says "Our website is best viewed with Would you like
to download it now?" JUST SAY NO. Never click yes to anything a website
"offers" you that you didn't specifically request. Even if you did request it
think twice about it.
Brought to you by a friendly neighborhood Network Administrator.
Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England
Brian Denk wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk"
>
>
>
>>Anybody else getting unsolicited email from www.SportFlyingShop.com
>>after visiting their website.
>>
>>I am pretty sure I did NOT sign up for anything, just had a brief look
>>after I read an email here on the list.
>>
>>Darn anyoing, I know I won't visit their site anymore.
>>
>>Gert
>>--
>>
>>
>
>Yes! They planted spyware or something on our PC's. Common marketing ploy
>nowadays. Annoying indeed.
>
>Screw 'em.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>RV10 '51
>
>do not archive
>
I've had good luck with Spybot software from:
http://www.safer-networking.org/index.php?page=download
It's free; the author just requests a donation of a few dollars to help
offset his bandwidth costs for making it available to the public.
I'm no computer genius; all I can say is that my 5 year old computer
seems to run a little faster since I let this software clean several
dozen spyware & adware programs off my hard drive.
Charlie
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 43
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|
RV-List <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>, OhioValleyRVators@yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | Airplane paintshop |
0.1 HTML_TITLE_EMPTY BODY: HTML title contains no text
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Anyone that is looking for a place to get their plane painted, here is a
good one.
Kentucky Aircraft Restoration is owned and operated by Toni Renye. I saw
the work that he did to a Great Lakes and an RV6 and both were very
good. Toni takes pride in his work. He has some of the nicest painting
equipment that I have seen. He moved here from Germany, setup his shop
in Princeton, Kentucky and has been putting out very good work. He has
alot of pictures of his work, that he said he would be willing to send
to anyone interested in getting their plane painted at his shop. Anyone
that is interested can reach him during day at his shop, he will be
happy to answer any of your questions. His shop is a very large hanger
located off the north end of Princeton-Caldwell Co. Kentucky airport
(2M0) located in the south western corner of Kentucky. I plan on having
my RV painted at Toni's shop when the time comes. He will be out of town
June 6-12.
Kentucky Aircraft Restoration
90 Murray Drive
Princeton, KY 42445
Phone: 270-365-1010
Email: kyaircraft@vci.net
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Breather Hose |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
I used auto heater hose but next iteration will be all aluminum tubing -
less weight.
hal
At 06:10 PM 5/26/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
>
>Folks,
>What temp. does the breather hose need to withstand?
Message 45
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|
"aeroelectric-list" <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Fw: LED flashlights |
2.4 MONEY_MAKING BODY: Discusses money making
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I know we have some tinkerers on these lists so I thought I should pass on
the prompt and kindly reply of Wayne, of Electrolumens.com
My e-mail to him is at bottom. Looks like he's had a lot of fun with this
sideline (see 2nd link, at bottom of his reply). His prices are a bit high
for me, but he also sells parts to hobbyists/tinkerers - so he's not "too
proud" or "too proprietary oriented" to help someone.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne" <elektrolumens@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: LED flashlights
> See this link of a modified flashlight I make, called the Anglelux:
>
> http://elektrolumens.com/AngleLux/AngleLux.html
>
>
> This light might be good for aviation, as it has the different lens
> colors. I make them with a single LED, and with the dual LED
> setup.
> I do it as it is interesting and provides work for a help of
> mine, so he can make a little money too.
>
> For using LEDs, you just need to pay attention to the voltage
> requirements of the LED. For the Luxeon LED, you also need to
> pay attention to sinking the heat from the LED.
>
> In the Anglelux, I use a switch in one model to go from a single to
> dual LEDs. It could also be done with a single LED and a switch for
> low power/high power, so when you're in a small area or reading a
> map, you can cut the power down.
>
> Just some suggestons.
>
> I use the genuine Fulton Industries anglehead flashlights in my
> Anglelux. I also have some generic ones, which I cannot use. You
> can have one for minimal cost, if you want one. They work just as
> good, but my customers insist on the American made quality
> product. I also have the Fulton Anglheads, if you want one of those,
> which you can modify yourself. I normally do not sell the flashlight
> like this. I can also throw in the needed heat sink. You'll have to do
> the rest.
>
> Here's a link to flashlights I've modified in the past, for your
> amusement:
>
> http://elektrolumens.com/Modified_Flashlights.html
>
>
> Wayne
> ==============================================
> On 26 May 2004 at 9:45, David Carter wrote:
>
> > Your website was mentioned on a home-built aircraft e-mail forum. I
> > spent a long time in Wal-Mart last month looking at LED flashlights -
> > all but 1 (MagLite) were made in China. I don't buy anything made in
> > China.
> >
> > I'm not in law enforcement or military, so don't need a superbright
> > flashlight. However, I am a pilot, fly at night and on instruments,
> > so need a flashlight with LONG battery life and just average - or less
> > - light "power".
> >
> > I'd think a single NmH AA or AAA battery ought to power a small LED
> > for a "long" time - smaller flashlight is "better" for holding in my
> > mouth or velcro'ing to a mounting pad to shine on instrument panel.
> >
> > Tight beam is probably NOT best for looking at a map or illuminating
> > several instruments on the panel.
> >
> > Any suggestions? I am building my own RV-6 from a kit and am doing
> > all my own electrical work and have experience as a flight simulator
> > repairman (old tube type thing in 1960), so I have some experience
> > soldering and have all the good solder and devices, heat shrink, etc.
> > I have saved some e-mails from the Aeroelectric List that tell how to
> > size the resistors for any particular LED. Seems like "optics head"
> > and the "case & switch" will be the keys to making my own light. I
> > have a "bread board" for prototyping from Radio Shack.
> >
> > Since you seem to be kind enough to make your parts available for the
> > "flashlight hobbyist", may I ask if you have any suggestions of parts
> > for me to make my own "little flashlight"
> >
> > I am also a Scoutmaster and family camper. I need a more normal "2 D
> > cell" type flashlight for my back pack - and for emergency use in my
> > two cars. Is conversion of a std 2 D cell flashlight to LED feasible?
> > Any suggestions for parts for thist?
> >
> > Not trying to take your time away from "real money makers", so hope
> > you don't find my questions bothersome. I'll certainly appreciate any
> > time you can spare to respond to this.
> >
> > David Carter
> > 409-722-7259
> > dcarter@datarecall.net
> > 619 S. 16th St.
> > Nederland, Texas 77627
> >
> >
>
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: I gotta Rocket!!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <Jdaniel343@bresnan.net>
Hi Denis,
Where is Rebel's Bluff?
Thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denis Walsh" <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: I gotta Rocket!!!!
> --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>
> Why not fly that new rocket down to Rebel's Bluff, and show it off to
> Les Featherstone? Probably only take a half hour ..... He only had one
> rocket show up last year at the first annual rocket and rv fly in.
>
> It was a real winner.
>
> Denis in Denver
> On May 25, 2004, at 5:58 AM, Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
> >
> > All, and especially Gummi Bear,
> >
> > After years of whining and crying on this list I finally got a Rocket!
> > Yippee!
> >
> > Get in that Bird of yours Gummi Bear and get out here and we will rip
> > up the
> > skies and find out who can fly ;-)
> >
> > Mark Fredrick is now the proud owner of my SNB-4 (Twin Beech in
> > laymans
> > Language) and I have the "Check Six" Rocket. I don't know what the
> > plan is
> > for it right now, I've got a freind who wants to buy it.
> >
> > What an airplane!
> >
> > Tailwinds,
> > Doug Rozendaal
> > Rocketeer!
> >
> > P.S. Now I have to come up with a new reason to hate Tom Gummo ;-)
> > (suggestions accepted)
> >
> >
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 47
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| Subject: | Reminder - Langley Fly-in |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
The Langley (BC) fly-in will be Saturday, June 12, 2004 at Langley Township
Regional Airport (CYNJ). Langley is 20 nm north of Bellengham, WA. This is
the annual fly-in for Van's Air Force Western Canada Wing.
Eustace Bowhay will be giving his always-popular seminar on all things RV. And
Gus Funnell, from Van's, will be there, probably with the RV-10. Border
crossing for U.S. visitors is quite simple, and you'll find detailed
instructions on the Home Wing web site,
http://www.edt.com/homewing/international/index.html
Come see a whole other world of flying just across the border.
The Langley fly-in is also a popular event for builders other than RVers, and
this year we're going to have a seminar by Murphy Aircraft, as well as a Murphy
booth. There will be camping on the field as well as local hotel accommodation
for anyone who wants to stay overnight. You can get all the details on the
fly-in web site, at
http://www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ/
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
tedd@vansairforce.org
www.vansairforce.org
Message 48
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| Subject: | FW: And When the Holes Don't Line Up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen@rv7.us>
In inspecting my QB (7a) fuselage I found that (f706) cabin member has a
noticeable bend in it. When it is forced straight, the metal (f652 upper
cabin bulkhead) bows out and there isn't any reasonable way to make it all
fit. OK, I don't know how to further explain, so there is a picture or two
at http://www.rv7.us/daily040516.htm The bottom line is that the
pre-punched holes don't line up. I've decided on a fix -- redrill the holes
in the back side and move the nutplates. That won't show inside the cabin,
but I'm not sure that the problem isn't with the rib (f-706). If it is, it
would mean that the outer skin wouldn't fit. Any suggestions on how I can
determine where the real culprit is? This is the way it came from Van's.
Any ideas? Anyone else have this problem?
Kathleen
www.rv7.us
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> You need to learn to read your EGT's on the engine
> analyzer. That should show you exactly which cylinder
Skylor,
Give me a little more credit than that. The running was so rough when the
mag was switched off, and I immediately switched the mag back on. I
literally switched it back on in less than a second. The thought of the
vibration and rough running wreaking havoc was too much for me to just let
it run like that.
do not archive
)_( Dan
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Plasma II roughness, just a bad spark plug |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Nevermind my last comment...I see what you mean...turn off the faulty
ignition and watch the EGTs and see which cylinder *doesn't* go up. Wish I
had thought that clearly about it at the time.
do not archive
)_( Dan
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