Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:06 AM - lightspeed ignition buyers questions (RV8ter@aol.com)
2. 06:00 AM - Re: lightspeed ignition buyers questions (James E. Clark)
3. 06:12 AM - Re: lightspeed ignition buyers questions (Brian Alley)
4. 06:34 AM - Re: Wing wiring conduits & heated pitot tube (Christopher Stone)
5. 06:43 AM - RV-8 For Sale (Ken Balch)
6. 06:52 AM - Finding AD's for your engine... (Bill VonDane)
7. 06:55 AM - Re: Wing wiring conduits & heated pitot tube (BBreckenridge@att.net)
8. 07:47 AM - Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com (Scott Vanartsdalen)
9. 08:19 AM - Re: AD's & SB's (Mike Robertson)
10. 08:23 AM - Re: Low Fuel Pressure (Mike Robertson)
11. 10:09 AM - Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com (Dave Parsons)
12. 10:09 AM - Re: lightspeed ignition buyers questions (RV8ter@aol.com)
13. 10:37 AM - Re: lightspeed ignition buyers questions (RGray67968@aol.com)
14. 10:43 AM - Re: Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com (Terry Watson)
15. 10:55 AM - Re: lightspeed ignition buyers questions (Ross Mickey)
16. 11:49 AM - Re: lightspeed ignition buyers questions (RV8ter@aol.com)
17. 01:20 PM - Re: Finding AD's for your engine... (Matthew Brandes)
18. 01:44 PM - Re: lightspeed ignition buyers questions (Matthew Brandes)
19. 02:05 PM - Re: Re: lightspeed ignition buyers questions (RV8ter@aol.com)
20. 02:13 PM - Bakersfield EAA BBQ (Tim Barnes)
21. 03:00 PM - Missing dimples (Are Barstad)
22. 03:16 PM - Re: Bakersfield EAA BBQ (Laird Owens)
23. 03:26 PM - Re: Missing dimples (Skylor Piper)
24. 04:33 PM - Re: lightspeed ignition buyers questions (LarryRobertHelming)
25. 04:41 PM - Re: Missing dimples (LarryRobertHelming)
26. 04:47 PM - Re: Missing dimples (Jim Jewell)
27. 07:55 PM - Rotating Fuselage Stands for Sale. (RV-7A@austin.rr.com)
28. 07:58 PM - Re: lightspeed ignition buyers questions (James E. Clark)
29. 09:01 PM - Re: Missing dimples (Are Barstad)
30. 11:46 PM - bearing material (Wheeler North)
Message 1
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| Subject: | lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
It's time to buy an ignition system. I can't use the Lasar due to my Mag
design (dual mag pack on a A1B6D engine from a Mooney).
I need a Lightspeed 101 class.
I guess Lightspeed is the best alternative since it's basically all anyone
discusses. What's the practical difference between Lightspeed Plasma II, the II
plus and the III? I don't see a picture in Van's catalog of how one would
view the optional outputs the II Plus and III offer. How's that work?
It sounds like if I go with the regular Plasma, I have to go with a push
button start system? I can't use a Key start? I never hear anyone discuss using
the Cockpit adjustable timing advance feature. Is that something that's only
useful during initial setup and not used in flight?
Any strong opinions out there on any of this?
thx in advance,
Lucky
Message 2
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| Subject: | lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Lucky,
The Jeff Rose ElectroAir system is also a good option. And Jeff also
provides good support.
We are (happily) flying with one of Jeff's systems and I am building using
one of Klaus' systems (Plasma II+). BOTH are good options. Both of these
options allow for a keyswitch.
Not trying to promote either. Just saying you do have options.
James
[SNIP]
> I guess Lightspeed is the best alternative since it's basically
> all anyone
> discusses. What's the practical difference between Lightspeed
[SNIP]
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
I purchased the Lightspeed system based on the minimum
operating voltage. The Rose system will quite around
10 volts I believe. The Lightspeed system is
advertised to operate on as low as 4 volts. If you
loose an alternator you'll have some extra time to
find an airport.
=====
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
304-872-7938 shop
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
Message 4
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| Subject: | Wing wiring conduits & heated pitot tube |
--> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
We (two RV-8s being built simultaneously) enlarged the tooling holes (step drill)
in the ribs aft of the spar to accept flexable pvc conduit purchased from Van's.
It's ~1 in diameter, large enough for wires for strobes, position, landing
lights and antenna coax. The pitot-static lines are routed through prepunched
holes provided for them. There are plastic bushing provided to support
the aluminum pitot-static tubing.
Chris Stone
-8 wings
Newberg, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wing wiring conduits & heated pitot tube
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
Many people do run conduit there. From reading the RV-list, it seems
that getting the wires forward of the spar to the instrument panel might
be a bit awkward. I opted to drill new holes in the LE ribs for conduit,
and then to run wires between the fuel tanks and the spar (where the
tube to the pitot goes). I don't know how effective this is, since I
haven't actually run any wires.
Frank
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I'm studying my RV-6 QB wings & Dwg 10 showing aileron push tube, and
other dwgs and websites showing ways to route pitot tube tubing for
Gretz heated pitot tube.
Looks like lots of space in big lightening holes in all the ribs aft of
spar. Aileron pushtube has to go in there but seems there shouldn't be
any problem securing 1 or two small PVC pipes in there for 12volt wires
to strobes & position lights & RG-58 (0.20 inch OD) to a Bob Archer
antenna in each wing tip.
There'd be a 12 wire to landing light and 12 v wire to heated pitot
in left tip, plus air plumbing from pitot in left.
Ques 1: Has it been common practice to run wires in conduits aft of the
spar in those lightening holes? I'd secure the pvc at each end (root &
tip) with an Adel clamp. I'm thinking I'd let one pvc conduit lay on
the bottom of the lightening holes and mount the other opposite on the
top side (keep my strobe pwr wire sep from antenna cable, just in case)
- I can secure that upper conduit with 1 or more Adel clamps, starting
above the inspection plate area and outboard (that area is open on the
QB wings so I'd install the conduit before closing the wing). Seems
like the pvc conduits should be out of the way of the aileron tube in
inbd half of wing.
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch@cfl.rr.com>
Well, it's time to buy some of the expensive pieces of the new project,
so my RV-8 is for sale. The full details:
RV-8 150TT - empty weight 1110 - built from a standard kit
IO-360-A1B6 (200+HP) 150SMOH by Bart Lalonde (AeroSport Power) - the case
& crank were certified by Bart to conform to new limits or better and
everything else is new
- Hartzell C2YK prop - new from Van's
- Airflow Performance fuel injection system with purge valve
- Lightspeed electronic ignition system
- Vetterman crossover exhaust
- Denso 35amp alternator
- SkyTec lightweight starter
- Stewart Warner oil cooler - new from Pacific Oil Cooler
- Fuel tanks professionally built by Evan Johnson with flop tube in left
tank
- Infinity grip with PTT, coolie hat two-axis trim, start button, flap
switch & two unassigned buttons
- Andair fuel selector
- Deluxe throttle quadrant from Van's
- Halon fire extinguisher
- ACK ELT
- Brake reservoirs on pedals with no low pressure plastic tubing.
- Cowling installed with Camlocs. No hinges fwf.
- Becki Orndorff seats - navy blue w/gray chevron
- Hooker harnesses
All instruments & avionics brand new:
UPS GX-65 GPS/Comm
UPS SL-70 Transponder
UMA airspeed indicator - knots
SigmaTek attitude indicator - vacuum
Altimeter - 20K'
Turn coordinator
SigmaTek directional gyro - vacuum
RMI uEncoder
Manifold pressure - Van's
Tachometer - Van's
Oil temp - Van's
Oil pressure - Van's
EGT - Van's (one channel - cylinder #3)
CHT - Van's (one channel - Cylinder #3)
G meter
Clock - Electronics International
Volt/Ammeter - Electronics International
Magnetic compass - S.I.R.S.
Fuel computer - Electronics International
Dual fuel gauge - Electronics International
suction gauge
digital trim indicators (two-axis)
PS Engineering intercom
Hobbs meter
toggle switches for magneto & electronic ignition
Electrical system & wiring per Van's plans and utilizing Van's harness
kit.
Full custom paint job in a stylized, Stars & Stripes scheme. The design
was my idea, refined by Craig Barnett (Scheme Designers), and further
refined & executed by John Stahr (Stahr Design). The plane was
extensively hand airbrushed, with rippling depth effects and
embroidered-look stars & N numbers. It was a hit at SnF 2004. The plane
was photographed by Sport Aviation for an upcoming feature and will be
mentioned in Kitplanes next month.
Photos:
www.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/app.pl/albums/large_image_view?id=2288801&link_code=sa01_17
The plane is located in Kissimmee, Florida. I will deliver it anywhere
in the US for expenses.
$136,000
Regards,
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB
Pitts Model 12 #228
Message 6
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| Subject: | Finding AD's for your engine... |
rv8list@yahoogroups.com, RV10@yahoogroups.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Thanks to Mike Robertson for helping me find the AD's for my engine... I
should be assembling my engine this weekend and back in the air soon! I've
been starting to have withdrawals, but flying with my buddy in the Yak-52
seems to help! :)
I just thought I would pass along some instructions on how to do this for
yourself if you're interested...
How to find AD's that apply to your engine:
Go to the FAA's Regulatory and Guidance Library (be careful of line rap in
the URL below):
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAD.nsf/MainFrame?OpenFrameSet
Click on Current ADs - By Make
Click on the "L" at the top of the page
Find Lycoming Engines in the list and click on the link
Find your engine and click on the link
Hope this helps!
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | RE: Wing wiring conduits & heated pitot tube |
--> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
Ques 2: Few months ago some folks reported large jumps in price of Gretz
pitot tubes. Besides salvage, is there a lower priced alternative for new
heated pitot that has any track record of reliability - or potential, if
new? Is Dynon coming out with their own heated pitot tube? I'm planning on
a D-10.
David;
I just ordered Dynon's heated PITOT from SafeAir1 for $199 (http://www.safeair1.com/index.htm). Delivery won't be til late July or so. I found it, lost it, dug for it, found it again! Now, I can't tell you exactly how to find it on their website again. The non-heated version is easily found. I received my invoice yesterday and it clearly states "heated" pitot. I ordered it based on list conversation some time back of how expensive these things have gotten.
Bruce Breckenridge
RV-10 #18
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Only if they can *find* your email address. :-D I just didn't want everyone thinking
that the website in question was downloading some sort of evil spyware
to the unsuspecting.
But this is waaaay off topic.
Do not archive
Gert <gert@execpc.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert
Okay, from one friendly NWA to another NWA.
No SportFlyingShop.com did not download anything, nor did I opt for
anything when looking at their website. Websites can and will download
your email address without your knowledge.
It is not a virus, nor is it spyware adware or other ware, it's an
internet feature ;-)
Gert
Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen
>
> I ran a scan of my system before I visted their site and afterwared. They didn't
download so much as a cookie to my machine. I'm only running the standard
firewall that comes with WinXP.
>
> However, there are a lot of unscrupulous websites out there. Remember, when a
website displays a box that says "Our website is best viewed with Would you like
to download it now?" JUST SAY NO. Never click yes to anything a website "offers"
you that you didn't specifically request. Even if you did request it think
twice about it.
>
> Brought to you by a friendly neighborhood Network Administrator.
>
> Charlie England wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England
>
> Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk"
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>Anybody else getting unsolicited email from www.SportFlyingShop.com
>>>after visiting their website.
>>>
>>>I am pretty sure I did NOT sign up for anything, just had a brief look
>>>after I read an email here on the list.
>>>
>>>Darn anyoing, I know I won't visit their site anymore.
>>>
>>>Gert
>>>--
>>>
>>>
>>
>>Yes! They planted spyware or something on our PC's. Common marketing ploy
>>nowadays. Annoying indeed.
>>
>>Screw 'em.
>>
>>Brian Denk
>>RV8 N94BD
>>RV10 '51
>>
>>do not archive
>>
>
> I've had good luck with Spybot software from:
>
> http://www.safer-networking.org/index.php?page=download
>
> It's free; the author just requests a donation of a few dollars to help
> offset his bandwidth costs for making it available to the public.
>
> I'm no computer genius; all I can say is that my 5 year old computer
> seems to run a little faster since I let this software clean several
> dozen spyware & adware programs off my hard drive.
>
> Charlie
>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Richard,
If you are not curently tearing it down then you have nothing to worry about
at this time. But there are several of those ADs that still apply should
you need to tear it down, or if you have a prop stick. You may want to go
through them and identify which ones should the need arise.
Mike
>From: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: AD's & SB's
>Date: Thu, 27 May 2004 17:33:24 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
>Thanks Mike,
>I should have mentioned that my engine is new with a manufacturing date
>of 05-03-02. My interest is in knowing what ADs or SBs might apply since
>manufacture. I assume that all ADs and SBs up to date of manufacture
>were applied. So my concern would be any that followed.
>
>Regards,
>
>Richard Dudley
>
>Mike Robertson wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> >
> >Richard,
> >
> >Here is the AD list. For your series engine thare are 17 possible ADs.
> >Some of them will not apply. I would think about 6-8 of them would. The
> >really important ones are the ones that say do at overhaul/dis-assemble,
>the
> >oil pump AD, and the one about the accessory drive gear bolt. The text
>of
> >these ADs are available on the FAA.GOV website at:
> >
> >http://av-info.faa.gov/default.asp?PG=Aircraft
> >
> >Once you figure out which ADs apply then you can narrow down which SBs
> >apply. The total stack of SBs/SIs/SLs is about 12 inches thick so there
>is
> >no way I can send you the entire list. But if you need info on a
>specific
> >one let me know and I can email you that one.
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>From: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
> >>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >>To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: AD's & SB's
> >>Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 14:24:06 -0400
> >>
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
> >>
> >>Mike,
> >>I have an O-320-D1A in my nearly finished 6A. I would sure appreciate
> >>copies of those lists of SBs and ADs for that engine.
> >>Thanks in advance.
> >>
> >>Richard Dudley
> >>do not archive
> >>
> >>Mike Robertson wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson"
><mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> >>>
> >>>I have every one of both should you need them. Drop me a line.
> >>>
> >>>Mike Robertson
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>From: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
> >>>>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >>>>To: vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>,
>rv-list@matronics.com,
> >>>>rv8list@yahoogroups.com, RV10@yahoogroups.com
> >>>>Subject: RV-List: AD's & SB's
> >>>>Date: Wed, 26 May 2004 07:49:51 -0600
> >>>>
> >>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
> >>>>
> >>>>Just wondering if anyone has already complied a list of the applicable
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>ADs
> >>
> >>
> >>>>&
> >>>>SBs for the O320?
> >>>>
> >>>>Thanks...
> >>>>
> >>>>-Bill VonDane
> >>>>EAA Tech Counselor
> >>>>RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> >>>>www.vondane.com
> >>>>www.creativair.com
> >>>>www.epanelbuilder.com
> >>>>
> >>>>do not archive
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >it's FREE!
>http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
Message 10
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<6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510@mail.brier.net>
| Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Pressure |
<6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510@mail.brier.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
I would also take a look at the main filter again. Something may have come
loose and is now partially blocking the outlet.
Mike Robertson
>From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Low Fuel Pressure
><6.0.1.1.0.20040521132943.032b6510@mail.brier.net>
>Date: Thu, 27 May 2004 06:57:18 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>
>This sure sounds like Stew Bergner's problem, which was eventually
>traced to AFP boost pump assembly. Are you listening stewie??
>
>I don't remember the fix but I think he disabled the purge system?
>
>
>On May 26, 2004, at 2:30 PM, Bob wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
> >
> > Some of you really smart guys might be able to help me out on this
> > one. I
> > am getting low fuel pressures during cruise flight. Normal fuel
> > pressures
> > are 22-24 PSI without Aux boost pump and 26-27 PSI with boost pump on.
> > Now
> > without the aux boost pump I get about 10-11 PSI in cruise, I get 24
> > PSI at
> > takeoff and landing. On the Sunday flight, when I had low pressures I
> > turned on the boost pump and pressures went back to the 24 PSI
> > range. Yesterday, after the PSI dropped, I turned on the boost pump,
> > pressure went back up to normal range, then slowly dropped back to
> > 10-11
> > PSI. I turned the boost pump off and pressures dropped below 9 PSI.
> >
> > Engine is a IO 360 A1A (180 hp), Bendix fuel injection, and airflow
> > performance boost pump with assembly (fuel return line/check valve) and
> > fuel filter. All this stuff is plumbed according to airflow's
> > instructions. The system has been working fine for the first 150
> > hours. Since the last annual, it has been acting funny. The only
> > things
> > that I did to the fuel system during the annual was to clean the fuel
> > filter and to clean the finger screen in the fuel servo.
> >
> > My mechanic said to fly and watch it, but I think now I need to do
> > something. Any ideas would be appreciated.
> >
> > Bob
> > RV6 NightFighter
> >
> >
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> > _-
> > =======================================================================
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Get 200+ ad-free, high-fidelity stations and LIVE Major League Baseball
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Parsons" <rvl@davepar.com>
> Gert, is there anyway to disable this "feature" in the MS IExplore 6.0
> Browser??
I have to jump in here. Internet Explorer does not send your email address
to web sites that you visit. You are most likely getting junk mail from
posting to this list. Since our email addresses are posted on the
Matronics rv-list web site archive, anybody can write a program to search
through the archive and pick up the email addresses. I use different email
addresses for every service I sign up for. The only junk mail I am getting
is from the address I use for this list.
Dave
Seattle
RV-7A wings
Message 12
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| Subject: | lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
is there a web site which has any installation pictures or details? The "official"
web site I find doing the yahoo search is severly lacking.
thx,
lucky
do not archive
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Lucky,
The Jeff Rose ElectroAir system is also a good option. And Jeff also
provides good support.
We are (happily) flying with one of Jeff's systems and I am building using
one of Klaus' systems (Plasma II+). BOTH are good options. Both of these
options allow for a keyswitch.
Not trying to promote either. Just saying you do have options.
James
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
Hey Lucky, The Internet is incredible......just type in 'lightspeed ignition'
and whaaala.....up it comes.....try it sometime.....smile.
Here you go:
http://www.lsecorp.com/
Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
do not archive
is there a web site which has any installation pictures or details? The
"official" web site I find doing the yahoo search is severly lacking.
thx,
lucky
do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: unsolicited email from SportFlyingShop.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
I complained to SportFlyingShop after receiving a message from them, sent to
an e-mail address that I don't use on this list. They told me that
"Yes, mail like this is annoying. I don't think we will be doing this again.
Of course some people are interested in finding out about new products in
this manner, but it is not worth it considering the people who get annoyed.
We wanted to try it out and see the response.
Of course we honor all removal requests and have a very good system to make
sure no-one who is removed gets an e-mail again.
Incidently, we have no way of getting e-mail addresses from people who visit
our site. We don't have any way of doing this. The e-mail addresses we sent
the mail to were mostly hand-picked from aviation-related sites.
Again, apologies for the inconvenience and please let me know if the e-mail
address we used for you has not been unsubscribed yet.
Thanks
SFS"
Terry
Seattle
Do not archive
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Parsons" <rvl@davepar.com>
> Gert, is there anyway to disable this "feature" in the MS IExplore 6.0
> Browser??
I have to jump in here. Internet Explorer does not send your email address
to web sites that you visit. You are most likely getting junk mail from
posting to this list. Since our email addresses are posted on the
Matronics rv-list web site archive, anybody can write a program to search
through the archive and pick up the email addresses. I use different email
addresses for every service I sign up for. The only junk mail I am getting
is from the address I use for this list.
Dave
Seattle
RV-7A wings
Message 15
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| Subject: | lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
http://www.lsecorp.com/
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
is there a web site which has any installation pictures or details? The
"official" web site I find doing the yahoo search is severly lacking.
thx,
lucky
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
Sorry, I meant URL for Jeff Rose's Electro-Air ignition.
do not archive,
lucky
Message 17
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| Subject: | RE: Finding AD's for your engine... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
Here is a link to the Lycoming Service Bulletins, like the 505B and 475C.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage/support/publications/main
tenancePublications/serviceBulletins.html
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
Message 18
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| Subject: | RE: lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
Lucky,
I found this site with a picture and diagram.
http://www.sx300group.org/hangar_talk.htm
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: RE: lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
Hey, you win! Thanks for the information as you saved me from making a
mistake if I had ordered the Jeff Rose system. My engine only has one mag
accessory hole which drives both mag packs (that's what the D is about in the A1B6D).
I plan on using one single mag so I'll still need the
In a message dated 5/28/2004 4:45:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
matthew@n523rv.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
Lucky,
I found this site with a picture and diagram.
http://www.sx300group.org/hangar_talk.htm
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Bakersfield EAA BBQ |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Barnes" <meangreenrv4@hotmail.com>
Chapter 71 BBQ will be held June 5, @ L45 (Bakersfield Muni) There are a few
things that we will try to approve on, this year we will serve at 1:00pm,
the cost is only $ 10.00. Lots of planes and hangar talk. So if you will be
going to Merced this year fly over to L45 and get a Tri-Tip lunch, visit
with old friends or make some new ones. If you still have some questions you
can call (661) 836-1028
Get 200+ ad-free, high-fidelity stations and LIVE Major League Baseball
Gameday Audio! http://radio.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200491ave/direct/01/
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad@norlogic.com>
Okay - this is embarrassing... After assembling one of my flaps I noticed
that I must have forgot to dimple one side of the main spar - D'Oh! The side
with the hinge is dimpled but not the side under the top skin.
While I'm confident it will never come apart, I'm not sure if it will pass
inspection.
I have no idea how I could forget this and not notice before riveting. I can
only fix this by building a new flap since it would be impossible to salvage
due to cherry max rivets on the spar where the ribs are attached. It would
be a shame since the flap otherwise looks like a million bucks...
Does anyone have any experience with this?
Are
RV-8 - Wings
---
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Bakersfield EAA BBQ |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
Tim,
Are you doing this in conjunction with the car show and RC models like
you did awhile back or is it like the old days, just a fly-in?
Laird
On May 28, 2004, at 2:10 PM, Tim Barnes wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Barnes" <meangreenrv4@hotmail.com>
>
>
> Chapter 71 BBQ will be held June 5, @ L45 (Bakersfield Muni) There are
> a few
> things that we will try to approve on, this year we will serve at
> 1:00pm,
> the cost is only $ 10.00. Lots of planes and hangar talk. So if you
> will be
> going to Merced this year fly over to L45 and get a Tri-Tip lunch,
> visit
> with old friends or make some new ones. If you still have some
> questions you
> can call (661) 836-1028
>
> Get 200+ ad-free, high-fidelity stations and LIVE Major League Baseball
> Gameday Audio!
> http://radio.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200491ave/direct/01/
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Missing dimples |
--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
Can you simply drill out the rivets that are in the
un-dimpled holes, then machine countersink the holes
and re-rivet?
--- Are Barstad <are_barstad@norlogic.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Are Barstad"
> <are_barstad@norlogic.com>
>
> Okay - this is embarrassing... After assembling one
> of my flaps I noticed
> that I must have forgot to dimple one side of the
> main spar - D'Oh! The side
> with the hinge is dimpled but not the side under the
> top skin.
>
> While I'm confident it will never come apart, I'm
> not sure if it will pass
> inspection.
>
> I have no idea how I could forget this and not
> notice before riveting. I can
> only fix this by building a new flap since it would
> be impossible to salvage
> due to cherry max rivets on the spar where the ribs
> are attached. It would
> be a shame since the flap otherwise looks like a
> million bucks...
>
> Does anyone have any experience with this?
>
> Are
> RV-8 - Wings
> ---
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Alley" <n320wt@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: lightspeed ignition buyers questions
> --> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
>
> I purchased the Lightspeed system based on the minimum
> operating voltage. The Rose system will quite around
> 10 volts I believe. The Lightspeed system is
> advertised to operate on as low as 4 volts. If you
> loose an alternator you'll have some extra time to
> find an airport.
>
> =====
> BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
> CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
> 304-872-7938 shop
> 304-562-6800 home
>
((((((((((())))))))))))))
That is why it is good to have the other half of the spark plugs driven by a
magneto. Even if the battery fails to deliver, for what ever reason, you
still have spark plugs working. EI with magneto is a safer system with
alternate power source for contingency.
I suggest you consider Bob Nuckoll's methodology of using an endurance buss
system with a yearly new 17 amp hour battery. With not more than 8 amps
draw on the endurance buss, there will be 2 hours to find that airport or
continue your flight to final destination if the alternator quits provided
you have a fully charged and capable battery. For more information on the
endurance buss and Bob Nuckolls, visit
http://www.matronics.com/subscription/ and subscribe to aeroelectric-list
or search aeroelectric-list archives at
http://www.matronics.com/searching/ws_script.cgi
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Missing dimples |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
No experience with this -- however -- You should be able to drill them out.
If that fails, you can always buy new parts and do the work over. You are
not the first person/builder to do this and you will not be the last.
Other alternatives? You should call Vans and see what they advise.
Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad@norlogic.com>
Subject: RV-List: Missing dimples
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad@norlogic.com>
>
> Okay - this is embarrassing... After assembling one of my flaps I noticed
> that I must have forgot to dimple one side of the main spar - D'Oh! The
side
> with the hinge is dimpled but not the side under the top skin.
>
> While I'm confident it will never come apart, I'm not sure if it will pass
> inspection.
>
> I have no idea how I could forget this and not notice before riveting. I
can
> only fix this by building a new flap since it would be impossible to
salvage
> due to cherry max rivets on the spar where the ribs are attached. It would
> be a shame since the flap otherwise looks like a million bucks...
>
> Does anyone have any experience with this?
>
> Are
> RV-8 - Wings
> ---
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Missing dimples |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hello Are,
If I am reading your email correctly:
Are the the Cherry Max rivets you refer to the structural type? if so they
will have a steel shank in the center that can be driven out with a pin
punch. In some cases a die grinder or Dremel is needed to remove most of the
rivet head Once the pin is removed they can be drilled out with ease.
This then should allow you to salvage the good parts and or allow you to
dimple the forgotten dimples and then get back to building. If you feel the
skin or any other part is damaged too much replacement will be your choice.
If the Cherry Max rivets you refer to are the lighter duty type that come
with the kit you should be able to drill them out with little effort.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad@norlogic.com>
Subject: RV-List: Missing dimples
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad@norlogic.com>
>
> Okay - this is embarrassing... After assembling one of my flaps I noticed
> that I must have forgot to dimple one side of the main spar - D'Oh! The
side
> with the hinge is dimpled but not the side under the top skin.
>
> While I'm confident it will never come apart, I'm not sure if it will pass
> inspection.
>
> I have no idea how I could forget this and not notice before riveting. I
can
> only fix this by building a new flap since it would be impossible to
salvage
> due to cherry max rivets on the spar where the ribs are attached. It would
> be a shame since the flap otherwise looks like a million bucks...
>
> Does anyone have any experience with this?
>
> Are
> RV-8 - Wings
> ---
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Rotating Fuselage Stands for Sale. |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV-7A@austin.rr.com
I am building and selling Fuselage Stands that support all RV's for $250. I have them listed on Ebay as well. Feel free to email me for info. RV-7A@Austin.RR.com Pics are here. http://jeffsrv7a.com/Fusejig.htm
Message 28
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| Subject: | lightspeed ignition buyers questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Those "operating voltages" may not be as far apart as you may think. In any
case though if you take the midpoint for both, you still should have some
time before your ("in good health .... right??") battery goes dead.
Also I **THINK** there is a difference in where they operate in the
"starting the engine" mode vs once the engine is running. Don't have the
numbers and details right now but a friend of mine has noticed this.
Again, both systems are good systems.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Alley
> Sent: Friday, May 28, 2004 9:10 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: lightspeed ignition buyers questions
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
>
> I purchased the Lightspeed system based on the minimum
> operating voltage. The Rose system will quite around
> 10 volts I believe. The Lightspeed system is
> advertised to operate on as low as 4 volts. If you
> loose an alternator you'll have some extra time to
> find an airport.
>
> =====
> BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
> CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
> 304-872-7938 shop
> 304-562-6800 home
>
> How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
>
>
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad@norlogic.com>
do not archive
Thanks guys - I'm redoing it right now. So far so good. I should have it
back together again by Sunday night. The tricky part is the flap actuator
but it should be okay.
Are
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Jewell
Subject: Re: RV-List: Missing dimples
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hello Are,
If I am reading your email correctly:
Are the the Cherry Max rivets you refer to the structural type? if so they
will have a steel shank in the center that can be driven out with a pin
punch. In some cases a die grinder or Dremel is needed to remove most of the
rivet head Once the pin is removed they can be drilled out with ease.
This then should allow you to salvage the good parts and or allow you to
dimple the forgotten dimples and then get back to building. If you feel the
skin or any other part is damaged too much replacement will be your choice.
If the Cherry Max rivets you refer to are the lighter duty type that come
with the kit you should be able to drill them out with little effort.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad@norlogic.com>
Subject: RV-List: Missing dimples
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad@norlogic.com>
>
> Okay - this is embarrassing... After assembling one of my flaps I noticed
> that I must have forgot to dimple one side of the main spar - D'Oh! The
side
> with the hinge is dimpled but not the side under the top skin.
>
> While I'm confident it will never come apart, I'm not sure if it will pass
> inspection.
>
> I have no idea how I could forget this and not notice before riveting. I
can
> only fix this by building a new flap since it would be impossible to
salvage
> due to cherry max rivets on the spar where the ribs are attached. It would
> be a shame since the flap otherwise looks like a million bucks...
>
> Does anyone have any experience with this?
>
> Are
> RV-8 - Wings
> ---
>
>
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
Message 30
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"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@matronics.com
| Subject: | bearing material |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Laird,
big bummer,
Obviously don't run the engine at all, but its really unusual to see bearing
wear this early in the life of a proven engine.
Was there a lot of metal?
Lycoming has a sb on the 100% replacement items during OH, but its a long
list. The downside is things like cams and lifter bodies tend to go after
TBO so now you are in the quandry of dealing with that in another 1000 hours
again, given that they pass muster now.
Its true that there are service limits and new limits, but the service
limits aren't that great, and on many parts you will not reach TBO by using
them.
I'm not convinced you yet know what caused the premature failure or where it
is specifically.
One option is to pull the cylinders and see if its a con bearing. If so, and
the metal load was very low, then your bottom end mains may be ok. In this
case the OH is just a disassembly, clean, replace all bearings and seals and
reassemble.
The other thing that I don't yet know is was there any other contaminants
such as silicon or steel. Bearings can be wiped by failing things like an
oil pump, or a bad air filter letting a lot of dirt in. This latter will
usually show up as poor compresion first though.
Re shops, Lycon does seem to be the best in our sorta local area, to which
I've never heard of a complaint. This is definately an area where you get
what you pay for, but paying big bucks doesn't ensure that. Take the time to
have a long conversation with them. If they know their stuff they will grant
you that luxury. Most good pros know that this is a part of running a good
business and maintaining a strong reputation.
I would also add that you are more than competent to tear this down your
self and explore it some more, and in fact, possibly repair it your self.
I've built a lot of aircraft and automotive engines, and like anything else,
taking your time, getting good info, borrowing the right tools when you need
them, etc will produce a good job and you will gain from the experience.
And worse case, if you tear it down and all looks nasty, box it up and mail
it off. But at least you will be confident at that point that it really
needed a full OH.
I'd be happy to pop up and look at it once you got it apart, or anytime for
that matter.
W
Time: 11:52:32 AM PST US
From: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
Subject: RV-List: Questions For An Overhaul Shop
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
Hi all,
So much for having TOO much fun in the Bahamas last month.
After I got home from the trip, I changed the oil and found metal in
the oil filter. 950 TTSN, in 3 years. Lycoming confirmed it was
bearing material. %$#@!!! There were no symptoms during the last
flights, such as low oil pressure (75psi warm) or vibration. I had just
finished flying 45 hrs in the previous 2 weeks, with nothing in the
filter on the last oil change.
At this point I'm not interested in doing the overhaul myself, even
assisted, so I'm looking for a shop to do an overhaul to get back
flying.
Right now I've got some shops in my mind (including Aero Sport) but I'm
not quite sure how to approach them.
How do I approach these companies to compare prices to get an "apples
to apples comparison. I'm sure they'd want to look at the engine
before making any quote. I can't send them all the engine. I want to
make sure I look around to get a warm fuzzy when I end up sending it
someone and parting with the next 5 years of my expendable income.
Would asking them for a quote on their labor costs for a "standard"
(whatever that is) overhaul would be the right way to do it?. Or a
quote on an overhaul with all parts assumed good, like crankcase,
crank, cam, pistons and cylinders. (I know that there will be some
components that'll need replacing, but with a 1000hr motor since new,
there should be a lot of good parts, except what has been damaged from
the bearing giving up.)
Any other ideas?
Since this is the first experience with this kind of experience, any
suggestions would be welcomed.
TIA,
Laird RV-6
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