Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:16 AM - Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor (Mickey Coggins)
2. 06:54 AM - drawing 25 and firewall penetrations and 0-360 (JhnstnIII@aol.com)
3. 08:59 AM - Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor (Mike Robertson)
4. 09:00 AM - Jet Stream (John)
5. 09:24 AM - Brake fluid leak (Austin)
6. 09:27 AM - Heated pitot (Austin)
7. 11:07 AM - Re: Bakersfield EAA BBQ (Russell Lamb)
8. 11:07 AM - Re: Brake fluid leak (Brian Kraut)
9. 11:08 AM - cowl mysterious pustules (Richard V. Reynolds)
10. 02:04 PM - Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor (Pat Hatch)
11. 02:27 PM - Digiflight II VS Autopilot (Pat Hatch)
12. 02:53 PM - Re: Brake fluid leak (N223RV@aol.com)
13. 02:58 PM - Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)
14. 03:16 PM - Re: Brake fluid leak (cgalley)
15. 06:11 PM - Re: Heated pitot (Pat Hatch)
16. 06:12 PM - RayAllen Stick Grips for Sale ()
17. 07:44 PM - Re: Brake fluid leak (Dan Checkoway)
18. 10:59 PM - Diode on starter relay (solenoid) (Jim Anglin)
19. 11:21 PM - Re: Diode on starter relay (solenoid) (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Depends on where you live, but even back in the 70's I
could get top quality German bolts at the nearest
auto parts store. Metric stuff is pretty widely used
everywhere in the world, even the USA and UK, except
in aviation.
I'd also check with MT to explain the problem, and
try to find out if there is a "fix". This could help
other people in the future.
My 1/50th of a dollar.
Mickey
>... Also, this way I won't have to wait a week for a metric bolt to get
>here in the mail. I am still debating whether I want to do this or not or
>maybe even use a #8 screw with a metal stop nut. As you know, the arm is
>not very wide and an AN3 bolt might be too big. And obviously I would
>probably void the warranty if I go this route. Anyone have any thoughts on
>this?
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 2
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| Subject: | drawing 25 and firewall penetrations and 0-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: JhnstnIII@aol.com
Listers--Have checked the archives and can't find this one. Does anyone know
if the firewall penetration locations on drawing 25 (RV-6) work for the 0-360
A1A? Thanks. --LeRoy Johnston, Columbus, OH, RV-6, firewall forward.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Pat,
You may want to replace it with a metric stainless steel socket head (Allen)
screw. They are available from our friendly Lowe's or Ace hardware. Then
drill the head for .022 safety wire. I have found over time that this
set-up works quite well.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
>Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 19:01:39 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
>
>Jordan, thanks for the reply. You know, on further inspection of some
>photographs that I have of the governor installation, it looks like the
>tabs
>are bent over. So now I'm wondering whether the arm just slipped off the
>shaft and then the bolt backed out. Not sure, but now I'm thinking about
>drilling the hole out for an AN3 bolt and using a castle nut on the other
>side. I am not a big fan of lock washers in an installation like this
>anyway. Also, this way I won't have to wait a week for a metric bolt to
>get
>here in the mail. I am still debating whether I want to do this or not or
>maybe even use a #8 screw with a metal stop nut. As you know, the arm is
>not very wide and an AN3 bolt might be too big. And obviously I would
>probably void the warranty if I go this route. Anyone have any thoughts on
>this?
>
>Pat
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
> >
> > Pat,
> > I recently installed my MT Governor. Like you said, it came with
> > instructions to set the arm to the proper clock position you want, then
>to
> > bend over the washer yourself. I think this is something that is easily
> > forgotten - especially if you don't need to reset the arm. I'm going to
> > write myself a note to remember to do that before I fly.
> >
> > Jordan Grant
> > RV-6 - Working on the fuel System
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
> >
> > With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the
>runup
>I
> > noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was
>no
> > resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the
>hangar
> > and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the shelf
>of
> > the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm in
> > place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined
>shaft.
> > To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock washer
>was
> > in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the governor
> > probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps
>anticipating
> > having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone shine
>any
> > light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might
>find
> > one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a
>#8
> > screw.
> >
> > More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor control
>arm
> > if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends over
>the
> > arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the
>bolt.
> >
> > Pat Hatch
> > RV-4
> > RV-6
> > RV-7 All Flying
> > Vero Beach, FL
> >
> >
>
>
Message 4
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0.3 FROM_HAS_MIXED_NUMS From: contains numbers mixed in with letters
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Here in the Colorado mountains I find that one of the most important factors
effecting weather is the jet stream. If you want a good web site to see the
streams present positions as well as forecasts into the future (up to 5 days
or so) try this web site...I think its an important part of weather
planning.
http://squall.sfsu.edu/crws/jetstream.html#forecast
John
Message 5
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| Subject: | Brake fluid leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <austin@uniserve.com>
Listers,
I have a small brake fluid leak from the bottom 90 degree fitting
on the side of my right rudder pedal.
This is the blue fitting going into the cylinder..low pressure.
Since turning this tighter will either strip the threads or have the tubing running
off at an unacceptable angle, I was wondering if teflon tape on the thread
will fix the problem, or will the fluid eventually eat the tape ?
What fix would you do ?
Regards,
Austin RV6A
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <austin@uniserve.com>
Listers,
Anybody know if Warren Gretz still makes pitot tubes, and if not,
where can I get one ?
Many thanks,
Austin.
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Bakersfield EAA BBQ |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Russell Lamb" <lamb_russell@hotmail.com>
Laird,
It is just like the old days no cars, no motorcycles and no RC planes. It will
be just fly in and BBQ.
Russell
Tim,
Are you doing this in conjunction with the car show and RC models like you did
awhile back or is it like the old days, just a fly-in?
Laird
Message 8
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| Subject: | Brake fluid leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Tefflon tape is fine for brake fluid, but you need to be carefull and put it
on the fitting starting at about the second thread. You don't want to get
it at the end of the threads where some of it can come off and block small
orifices in the system.
A better solution is to use the liquid pipe sealant. You can get it at any
hardware store. With the liquid you can leave the fiting slightly loose and
at the correct position and it will harden some.
All of your pipe thread fittings should have a sealant applied.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Austin
Subject: RV-List: Brake fluid leak
--> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <austin@uniserve.com>
Listers,
I have a small brake fluid leak from the bottom 90 degree
fitting on the side of my right rudder pedal.
This is the blue fitting going into the cylinder..low pressure.
Since turning this tighter will either strip the threads or have the tubing
running off at an unacceptable angle, I was wondering if teflon tape on the
thread will fix the problem, or will the fluid eventually eat the tape ?
What fix would you do ?
Regards,
Austin RV6A
Message 9
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| Subject: | cowl mysterious pustules |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds@macs.net>
After about 6 hours of test flights, my upper cowl has developed three
mysterious pustules or blisters.
My RV-6A cowl is about 5 years old and is of the "new" epoxy honeycomb
construction.
The inside was finished with a very thin coat of WEST epoxy and a high
temperature white urethane enamel.
The outside was finished with a urethane enamel.
The cowl was finished last November in Norfolk, VA, and it has been
stored in the hangar.
The three blisters are are about 1 x 3, 1 x 2, and 1 x 2 , all about
1/8 high. There are corresponding blisters on the inside. The first two
are located at the rear baffling line and the third one is located
between cylinders 1-3 .
It appears that the epoxy glass coating has lifted of the honeycomb but
I have not pressed so hard as to pop them. The surface of the blister is
"firm", not real soft and squeshy.
Any thoughts???
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A, N841RV, Flying, 7.8 hrs
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Thanks, Mike. I did something similar. I replaced it with a stainless #8
screw. I drilled out the 4mm threads with a #19 drill and secured the screw
with an AN363 metal stop nut. It's working well, better than the original
setup I think.
Pat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
> Pat,
>
> You may want to replace it with a metric stainless steel socket head
(Allen)
> screw. They are available from our friendly Lowe's or Ace hardware. Then
> drill the head for .022 safety wire. I have found over time that this
> set-up works quite well.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>
> >From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
> >Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 19:01:39 -0400
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
> >
> >Jordan, thanks for the reply. You know, on further inspection of some
> >photographs that I have of the governor installation, it looks like the
> >tabs
> >are bent over. So now I'm wondering whether the arm just slipped off the
> >shaft and then the bolt backed out. Not sure, but now I'm thinking about
> >drilling the hole out for an AN3 bolt and using a castle nut on the other
> >side. I am not a big fan of lock washers in an installation like this
> >anyway. Also, this way I won't have to wait a week for a metric bolt to
> >get
> >here in the mail. I am still debating whether I want to do this or not
or
> >maybe even use a #8 screw with a metal stop nut. As you know, the arm is
> >not very wide and an AN3 bolt might be too big. And obviously I would
> >probably void the warranty if I go this route. Anyone have any thoughts
on
> >this?
> >
> >Pat
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
> > >
> > > Pat,
> > > I recently installed my MT Governor. Like you said, it came
with
> > > instructions to set the arm to the proper clock position you want,
then
> >to
> > > bend over the washer yourself. I think this is something that is
easily
> > > forgotten - especially if you don't need to reset the arm. I'm going
to
> > > write myself a note to remember to do that before I fly.
> > >
> > > Jordan Grant
> > > RV-6 - Working on the fuel System
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
> > >
> > >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
> > >
> > > With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the
> >runup
> >I
> > > noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was
> >no
> > > resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the
> >hangar
> > > and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the
shelf
> >of
> > > the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm
in
> > > place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined
> >shaft.
> > > To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock
washer
> >was
> > > in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the
governor
> > > probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps
> >anticipating
> > > having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone
shine
> >any
> > > light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might
> >find
> > > one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a
> >#8
> > > screw.
> > >
> > > More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor
control
> >arm
> > > if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends
over
> >the
> > > arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the
> >bolt.
> > >
> > > Pat Hatch
> > > RV-4
> > > RV-6
> > > RV-7 All Flying
> > > Vero Beach, FL
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Digiflight II VS Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
I felt compelled to comment on this incredible autopilot after about 23 hours of
test flying the -7. I have observed it holding a track, follow a GPS flight
plan using GPSS steering, hold a rate of climb or descent, and hold an altitude.
This autopilot is rock solid, smooth as silk, and I have not been able to
upset it even flying in heavy turbulence. If you set a 500 fpm climb, it maintains
500 fpm precisely, etc. It has a different feel than an analog autopilot,
no porpoising, instead the stepper motors give you a series of bumps that
are very positive and precise. We'll see how well it holds up, but I suspect
this company will provide good support. I expect they will have more good things
coming.
Pat
(No connection of any kind to TRUTRAK)
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Brake fluid leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
Be sure the fittings are tight enough. I had 2 small leaks on my RV-4
braking system at first. I found out I could turn the fittings one more turn around
and they both sealed. They seemed tight, but apparently not tight enough.
No leaks for over 150 hours of flying. Maybe you have a similar situation.
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Governor Problem - MT Governor |
--> RV-List message posted by:
WILL YOU FUCK OFF EMAILING ME
Pat Hatch <pat_hatch@msn.com> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch"
Thanks, Mike. I did something similar. I replaced it with a stainless #8
screw. I drilled out the 4mm threads with a #19 drill and secured the screw
with an AN363 metal stop nut. It's working well, better than the original
setup I think.
Pat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson"
Subject: Re: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson"
>
> Pat,
>
> You may want to replace it with a metric stainless steel socket head
(Allen)
> screw. They are available from our friendly Lowe's or Ace hardware. Then
> drill the head for .022 safety wire. I have found over time that this
> set-up works quite well.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>
> >From: "Pat Hatch"
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
> >Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 19:01:39 -0400
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch"
> >
> >Jordan, thanks for the reply. You know, on further inspection of some
> >photographs that I have of the governor installation, it looks like the
> >tabs
> >are bent over. So now I'm wondering whether the arm just slipped off the
> >shaft and then the bolt backed out. Not sure, but now I'm thinking about
> >drilling the hole out for an AN3 bolt and using a castle nut on the other
> >side. I am not a big fan of lock washers in an installation like this
> >anyway. Also, this way I won't have to wait a week for a metric bolt to
> >get
> >here in the mail. I am still debating whether I want to do this or not
or
> >maybe even use a #8 screw with a metal stop nut. As you know, the arm is
> >not very wide and an AN3 bolt might be too big. And obviously I would
> >probably void the warranty if I go this route. Anyone have any thoughts
on
> >this?
> >
> >Pat
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Jordan Grant"
> >To:
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant"
> > >
> > > Pat,
> > > I recently installed my MT Governor. Like you said, it came
with
> > > instructions to set the arm to the proper clock position you want,
then
> >to
> > > bend over the washer yourself. I think this is something that is
easily
> > > forgotten - especially if you don't need to reset the arm. I'm going
to
> > > write myself a note to remember to do that before I fly.
> > >
> > > Jordan Grant
> > > RV-6 - Working on the fuel System
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch
> > > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > > Subject: RV-List: Governor Problem - MT Governor
> > >
> > >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch"
> > >
> > > With about 19 hours on the -7, I had a problem this morning. On the
> >runup
> >I
> > > noticed that there was no prop RPM drop off and it felt like there was
> >no
> > > resistance on the other end of the control cable. I went back to the
> >hangar
> > > and un-cowled and found the control arm and rod end resting on the
shelf
> >of
> > > the firewall recess. The small metric bolt that held the control arm
in
> > > place had backed out and the arm had worked itself off the splined
> >shaft.
> > > To be honest, I am not sure that I checked to make sure the lock
washer
> >was
> > > in place and properly installed. My assumption now is that the
governor
> > > probably came without the tabs on the lock washer bent--perhaps
> >anticipating
> > > having to re-clock the arm. But I'm not sure. Anyway, can anyone
shine
> >any
> > > light on this, and does anyone have any suggestions on where one might
> >find
> > > one of these metric bolts? The bolt appears to be about the size of a
> >#8
> > > screw.
> > >
> > > More importantly it might be a good idea to check your governor
control
> >arm
> > > if you have the MT governor. The lock washer has a tab that bends
over
> >the
> > > arm and another that bends in the opposite direction to capture the
> >bolt.
> > >
> > > Pat Hatch
> > > RV-4
> > > RV-6
> > > RV-7 All Flying
> > > Vero Beach, FL
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
---------------------------------
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Brake fluid leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
You would be better served by removing the fitting and use a Teflon filled
pipe dope. The best there is Loctite PST which besides sealing also sets up.
Teflon tape is not a very good idea. It works well for the 1st application
but the 2nd application can and does push little pieces of the tape that
will NOT dissolve but can plug small openings. A piece behind one of the
o-rings will cause leaks and brake malfunctions.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Austin" <austin@uniserve.com>
Subject: RV-List: Brake fluid leak
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <austin@uniserve.com>
>
> Listers,
> I have a small brake fluid leak from the bottom 90 degree
fitting on the side of my right rudder pedal.
> This is the blue fitting going into the cylinder..low pressure.
> Since turning this tighter will either strip the threads or have the
tubing running off at an unacceptable angle, I was wondering if teflon tape
on the thread will fix the problem, or will the fluid eventually eat the
tape ?
> What fix would you do ?
> Regards,
> Austin RV6A
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Heated pitot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Austin,
Warren's no longer selling pitot tubes--just the mounts. He told me that
prices for the tubes had gone through the roof and he can't find a supplier
with reasonable rates anymore. Dynon makes a pretty good pitot tube at $199
that fits the Gretz mount. I have the heated version, same price.
do not archive
Pat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Austin" <austin@uniserve.com>
Subject: RV-List: Heated pitot
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <austin@uniserve.com>
>
> Listers,
> Anybody know if Warren Gretz still makes pitot tubes, and
if not, where can I get one ?
> Many thanks,
> Austin.
> do not archive
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | RayAllen Stick Grips for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: <dwhite17@columbus.rr.com>
I have a two Ray Allen Stick Grips for sale. 1 G101 and 1 G205. Both are wired
and ready to install into your stick. Sell both for $90.00
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Brake fluid leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Austin,
I had a similar situation, a leaky brass fitting on my brake cylinder.
In my limited experience, I found that using Loctite 565 (white teflon pipe
thread sealant paste) works great on pipe threads in the brake system, and I
also use it on nylon pipe threads in the pitot/static system (as recommended
by a pro when I had my IFR pitot/static check done).
http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/?layout=6&productline=565
On pipe threads in the fuel system, I always use EZ-Turn (fuelube).
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/nsearch.php?s=ez+turn
On pipe threads in the oil system, I use Permatex Form-a-Gasket #2
(http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/permatexprod.php) in some
spots, teflon tape in others (i.e. oil cooler fittings, as recommended by
Pacific Oil Coolers).
When I was building my -7 I was dumbfounded at the lack of a definitive
reference on how to lube pipe threads properly. I read too many conflicting
recommendations. Anyway, the info above is what I've settled on over time,
gospel to me now.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Austin" <austin@uniserve.com>
Subject: RV-List: Brake fluid leak
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Austin" <austin@uniserve.com>
>
> Listers,
> I have a small brake fluid leak from the bottom 90 degree
fitting on the side of my right rudder pedal.
> This is the blue fitting going into the cylinder..low pressure.
> Since turning this tighter will either strip the threads or have the
tubing running off at an unacceptable angle, I was wondering if teflon tape
on the thread will fix the problem, or will the fluid eventually eat the
tape ?
> What fix would you do ?
> Regards,
> Austin RV6A
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Diode on starter relay (solenoid) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
I have my HR II all wired and my neighbor showed me a wiring diagram of a
starter solenoid with a diode between the S terminal and ground. I have
owned 3 planes that didn't have this. What is the thinking behind this? I
also have Van's RV-8 wiring schematic that comes with the wiring kit and it
doesn't call out a diode. However, the diagram I saw with the diode was
from Van's.
?????????
Jim
HR-II #153 flying soon............
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Diode on starter relay (solenoid) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 5/30/2004 10:59:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jlanglin44@earthlink.net writes:
I have my HR II all wired and my neighbor showed me a wiring diagram of a
starter solenoid with a diode between the S terminal and ground. I have
owned 3 planes that didn't have this. What is the thinking behind this? I
also have Van's RV-8 wiring schematic that comes with the wiring kit and it
doesn't call out a diode. However, the diagram I saw with the diode was
from Van's.
--------------------------------------------------------
It's called a catch diode and helps to safely dissipate the relay primary
electromagnetic field and reduce switch contact arcing and pitting when you
release the key switch from the starter position.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
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