Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:00 AM - Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] (Matt Dralle)
2. 04:47 AM - Re: Duel electric fuel pumps (Charles Rowbotham)
3. 04:51 AM - Re: Another One Leaves the Nest... (Charles Rowbotham)
4. 06:09 AM - Modifying RV6 chin scoop (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)
5. 06:22 AM - pneumatic squeezers (Frazier, Vincent A)
6. 07:11 AM - Down side of Reporting Spam (Imfairings@aol.com)
7. 07:23 AM - Re: Duel electric fuel pumps (Mike Robertson)
8. 07:24 AM - Re: Modifying RV6 chin scoop (Gary Zilik)
9. 07:41 AM - Re: Modifying RV6 chin scoop (Brian Alley)
10. 08:39 AM - Re: Down side of Reporting Spam (Rabaut, Chuck)
11. 08:44 AM - Re: pneumatic squeezers (Dr. Peter Laurence)
12. 10:04 AM - Space date set for Rutan SpaceShipOnce (Jerry Hansen)
13. 10:12 AM - Re: Lesson Learned (Jeff Cours)
14. 10:26 AM - Electric Fuel Pump ()
15. 12:44 PM - Ellison Throttle Body (mark phipps)
16. 12:53 PM - XP-360 Question (Frederick Oldenburg)
17. 01:10 PM - Re: XP-360 Question (Ralph E. Capen)
18. 01:23 PM - Re: Ellison Throttle Body (Scott Bilinski)
19. 02:37 PM - Re: pneumatic squeezers (Larry Bowen)
20. 03:39 PM - For Sale: Avery RV Tools with Pneumatic Squeezer (Liz Taylor)
21. 03:55 PM - Re: Ellison Throttle Body (mark phipps)
22. 05:02 PM - Re: Modifying RV6 chin scoop (Paul Boyce, Ph.D.)
23. 06:28 PM - RV Fly In Missouri (R. Craig Chipley)
24. 07:16 PM - Re: RV Fly In Missouri (Lwfeatherston@aol.com)
25. 08:08 PM - Mason City Iowa Formation Clinic, get ready for Osh. (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
26. 08:17 PM - Re: Ellison Throttle Body (Greg Grigson)
27. 08:18 PM - Re: RV Fly In Missouri (Craig Warner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] |
DNA: do not archive
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Lister,
Please read over the RV-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
RV-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
RV-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RV-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RV-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RV-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
Message 2
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| Subject: | Duel electric fuel pumps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Hi Matthew,
I'd buy the Best fuel pumps available and run the wiring by Bob Nuckolls.
Personally I'd spend the $$ for the engine fuel pump and still use the Best
electirc pump I could find. For what it's worth on our IO-360 we have a
engine driven fuel pump and our electric boost (which cost about $500 as I
remember).
Good building,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A (300 hrs)
>From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Duel electric fuel pumps
>Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 16:00:38 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
>
>Hey gang.. I have a 320-D2J that doesn't have a fuel pump (nor a pad for
>one) on it that is going in my RV-9A. I've swapped numerous emails with
>Mahlon at Mattituck (Thanks!) about exchanging the accesorry case for one
>with a pump pad on it in order to drive a mechanical pump.
>
>I'm curious if anyone has experience running duel electric pumps. What are
>the pros/cons of this type of setup.
>
>It's going to cost me on the order of $750 to get a mechanical pump
>installed on my D2J ($250 accessory case swap/$136 drive pin/$100 idler
>gear/$248 fuel pump).
>
>ACS has the electric facet fuel pumps that deliver 4-6psi with the AN
>fitting for $35.60. (At that price I could replace often and have
>redundancy.)
>
>PROS: Lighweight, inexpensive, saves me $$$.
>CONS: Electric, life expectency?
>
>A properly designed electrical system would all but eliminate the problem
>of
>the pump being electric in case of electrical failure.
>
>Thoughts?
>
>Matthew Brandes,
>Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
>EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
>www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
>
>
Looking to buy a house? Get informed with the Home Buying Guide from MSN
House & Home. http://coldwellbanker.msn.com/
Message 3
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| Subject: | Another One Leaves the Nest... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Kurt,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A - Westerly, RI
p.s. Hope you'll stay on the " List " and answer questions
>From: RV6AOKC@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Another One Leaves the Nest...
>Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 16:24:20 EDT
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
>
>Well it finally flew!!! My slow build tail/not so quick build wing/fuse
>flew
>yesterday after 5.1 years and 1800 hours of building (I have several
>excuses...a 3 year old, a 6 month old, a 2 year activation for Iraqi
>Freedom, and a
>job that has me away from home 3-4 days a week....=)....).
>
>With buddy Rick Blaes in his RV-4 in trail we blasted off from Wiley Post
>Airport (PWA) in OKC for 45 minutes of fun!! Flys as they all do to Vans
>specs
>and is worth every cut knuckle and empty wallet. All I can say is keep at
>it...I never thought I would get there..and I did!!! Hope to have the 40
>hours
>flown off in a few months!!
>
>Thanks to all who helped me answer every crazy question on the list, you
>guys
>really made it easy for me. I hope I can pay you back at a fly in someday
>with a beer or two.
>
>Thanks again...
>
>Kurt Klewin, OKC, OK
>RV6A, N85KC, FLYING!!!!!!
>
>PS..Im still grinning....
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
Looking to buy a house? Get informed with the Home Buying Guide from MSN
House & Home. http://coldwellbanker.msn.com/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Modifying RV6 chin scoop |
--> RV-List message posted by:
I have an RV6 with a Superior O-360 carby engine in it
and the FAB 0-360 S type cowl air box on it.
I have just trimmed and then tried to fit my O-320
cowl air chin scoop on (bought some years ago as part
of the quick build kit when I was planning on a
smaller engine) and it is too small vertically to
accept the air box.
Does anyone have any ideas about splitting the chin
scoop and then fibreglassing it to a new shape, as I
live in Western Australia and the freight back to Vans
and the fact that it is already trimmed to shape make
it unreturnable, and very expensive to buy a new
correct O-360 type.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Shirley Harding
RV6 QB
Perth
Western Australia
http://au.movies.yahoo.com
Message 5
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|
| Subject: | pneumatic squeezers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP Well, after trying this same setting with the pneumatic I
discovered that there
was a "fluting effect" because the pneumatic is so strong it was bending
the
metal slightly. My rudder spar was now bowed slightly, like a rib would
be before
fluting it....maybe 1/4" or so when you lay it flat on a table. SNIP
In my experience, never use a pneumatic squeezer on hinge material
unless you want a useless, banana shaped part.
And always, always make sure that you have rounded the edges of your
dies with your Scotchbrite wheel to avoid unsightly rings.
Vince
Message 6
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| Subject: | Down side of Reporting Spam |
--> RV-List message posted by: Imfairings@aol.com
Good Morning,
Apparently one of my email addresses, bob@fairings-etc.com has been
"JoeJobbed". As I understand it I was randomly picked by the spammers to be
"JoeJobbed" as a get even tactic. This means they are sending out emails using
my
@fairings-etc.com. If you get an email from any address other than
bob@fairings-etc.com please be advised it is not from me.
My imfairings@aol.com seems not to have been hit.
Bob
Fairings-Etc
623-203-9795
Message 7
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| Subject: | Duel electric fuel pumps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
I would work but I would make sure that the second fuel pump is running on a
dedicated backup battery.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Duel electric fuel pumps
>Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2004 16:00:38 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
>
>Hey gang.. I have a 320-D2J that doesn't have a fuel pump (nor a pad for
>one) on it that is going in my RV-9A. I've swapped numerous emails with
>Mahlon at Mattituck (Thanks!) about exchanging the accesorry case for one
>with a pump pad on it in order to drive a mechanical pump.
>
>I'm curious if anyone has experience running duel electric pumps. What are
>the pros/cons of this type of setup.
>
>It's going to cost me on the order of $750 to get a mechanical pump
>installed on my D2J ($250 accessory case swap/$136 drive pin/$100 idler
>gear/$248 fuel pump).
>
>ACS has the electric facet fuel pumps that deliver 4-6psi with the AN
>fitting for $35.60. (At that price I could replace often and have
>redundancy.)
>
>PROS: Lighweight, inexpensive, saves me $$$.
>CONS: Electric, life expectency?
>
>A properly designed electrical system would all but eliminate the problem
>of
>the pump being electric in case of electrical failure.
>
>Thoughts?
>
>Matthew Brandes,
>Van's RV-9A (Wings/Fuselage)
>EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
>www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
>
>
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Modifying RV6 chin scoop |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@excelgeo.com>
I think you can order the "chin" seperate from the cowl. Then you could
cut off the one you have and graft the new one on.
Gary
owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by:
>
>I have an RV6 with a Superior O-360 carby engine in it
>and the FAB 0-360 S type cowl air box on it.
>
>I have just trimmed and then tried to fit my O-320
>cowl air chin scoop on (bought some years ago as part
>of the quick build kit when I was planning on a
>smaller engine) and it is too small vertically to
>accept the air box.
>
>Does anyone have any ideas about splitting the chin
>scoop and then fibreglassing it to a new shape, as I
>live in Western Australia and the freight back to Vans
>and the fact that it is already trimmed to shape make
>it unreturnable, and very expensive to buy a new
>correct O-360 type.
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>Shirley Harding
>RV6 QB
>Perth
>Western Australia
>
>http://au.movies.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Modifying RV6 chin scoop |
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
Before spending a bunch of money, Try making your
own!!! I've made several small fairings buy using
aluminum screen to form the shape, smear it with 5
minute epoxy after you get the shape close . Do minor
body work with bond and after waxing this form, layup
several layers of glass cloth with resin. Remove the
part from the form and install just like it came from
Vans!!! This is a quick and easy way to make small parts.
=====
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
304-872-7938 shop
304-562-6800 home
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
Message 10
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| Subject: | Down side of Reporting Spam |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut@fresnosheriff.org>
Bob,
I'm sorry you've been "gotten" too. You've always been great to work with,
very reasonably priced, and honest as the day is long. I wish I dealt with
more people/businesses like you. BTW, the fairings you made for my RV-4 still
look/fit/work great. Take care,
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Imfairings@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Down side of Reporting Spam
--> RV-List message posted by: Imfairings@aol.com
Good Morning,
Apparently one of my email addresses, bob@fairings-etc.com has been
"JoeJobbed". As I understand it I was randomly picked by the spammers to be
"JoeJobbed" as a get even tactic. This means they are sending out emails using
my
@fairings-etc.com. If you get an email from any address other than
bob@fairings-etc.com please be advised it is not from me.
My imfairings@aol.com seems not to have been hit.
Bob
Fairings-Etc
623-203-9795
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: pneumatic squeezers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Peter Laurence" <dr.laurence@mbdi.org>
Vince
I used my pneumatic squeezer on my empennage spars with no problem.
The trick is to pay very close attention as the sets engage and make sure
that the squeezer is perpendicular to the surface.
Peter
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
Subject: RV-List: pneumatic squeezers
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
>
> SNIP Well, after trying this same setting with the pneumatic I
> discovered that there
> was a "fluting effect" because the pneumatic is so strong it was bending
> the
> metal slightly. My rudder spar was now bowed slightly, like a rib would
> be before
> fluting it....maybe 1/4" or so when you lay it flat on a table. SNIP
>
> In my experience, never use a pneumatic squeezer on hinge material
> unless you want a useless, banana shaped part.
>
> And always, always make sure that you have rounded the edges of your
> dies with your Scotchbrite wheel to avoid unsightly rings.
>
> Vince
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Space date set for Rutan SpaceShipOnce |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen@cox.net>
Read about the big event here...
http://www.scaled.com/news/news.htm
Jerry Hansen
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Lesson Learned |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
I also ran into a similar problem: I bought a used squeezer on E-bay
with a yoke that someone ground for clearance. It's great for getting
into corners, but the grind is slightly off level, which lets the set
tilt just a touch. It's not a problem when squeezing rivets, but it'll
dent the aluminum when dimpling. Lucky thing for me was that it didn't
come with directions, so I experimented on scrap before using it on
anything expensive.
For now, I'm using the hand squeezer for dimpling and the pneumatic for
squeezing. I'll probably wind up buying a new yoke at some point, but
I'm finding that dimpling doesn't take as much force as, say, using a
Tatco squeezer on an AD4 rivet, the ligher hand squeezer is a lot easer
to maneuver than the pneumatic tool, and, so far at least, I've been
able to generate enough force to get good quality dimples, so hand
dimpling may be the answer for a while.
- Jeff
Message 14
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| Subject: | Electric Fuel Pump |
--> RV-List message posted by: <czechsix@juno.com>
Matt,
There are tons of certified spam cans flying with a Facet fuel pump on the engine
side of the firewall....all the Piper Warrior/Archer series that I've worked
on are this way. I don't think they really get that hot...as long as you aren't
having vapor lock problems, I wouldn't worry about it...the electric boost
pump is redundant to the mech pump anyway, so a failure isn't going to be a
big deal.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D with Facet 'beer can' pump in the wing root, along with the gascolator,
where it ain't gonna vapor lock...
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
Subject: RV-List: Electric Fuel Pump
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
My electric fuel pump "Facet?" is on the engine side of the firewall. Been
there for 325 hours. One on my friends said the firewall side is too hot
and may cause the pump to not work when you need it. What do you fuel
system wizards say? O360 with mechanical pump on engine.
Thanks
Matthew M. Jurotich
Message 15
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| Subject: | Ellison Throttle Body |
--> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com>
I am installing an Ellison Throttle Body on my 6A and find the standard length
throttle cable does not work due to the 90 degree right orientation. I would like
some info as to what length Throttle cable others have used for the Ellison
and how they routed it through the firewall.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, almost flying.
---------------------------------
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
On Superior's XP-360 website, it says the following:
"...each crankshaft is made from VAR steel and dynamically balanced to with-in
one-quarter ounce inch to reduce engine vibration. "
Is this the same thing as a counter-balanced crank? I would assume not. What is
the difference?
Thanks,
Fred
Fred Oldenburg
RV-7A - Empennage
http://www.rv.oldsack.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: XP-360 Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
The F6 crankshaft is counterweighted to eliminate the sixth and eighth order harmonic
vibrations in order to prevent vibration damage to three blade props.
This was recommended by MT when I ordered one of their hyd props.
Superior did not make a F6 type crankshaft at the time I ordered my engine from
Bart LaLonde - he built my XP360 with a stock Lycoming F6 crank.
This is the story that I got and I'm sticking to it!
Ralph Capen
N822AR - getting ready to bolt the prop to the engine to the mount to the firewall.......
SNIP
On Superior's XP-360 website, it says the following:
"...each crankshaft is made from VAR steel and dynamically balanced to with-in
one-quarter ounce inch to reduce engine vibration. "
Is this the same thing as a counter-balanced crank? I would assume not. What is
the difference?
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Ellison Throttle Body |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
How short is it? Spruce sells extensions.......up to 6 inches I think.
At 12:42 PM 6/2/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com>
>
>I am installing an Ellison Throttle Body on my 6A and find the standard
>length throttle cable does not work due to the 90 degree right
>orientation. I would like some info as to what length Throttle cable
>others have used for the Ellison and how they routed it through the firewall.
>
>Mark Phipps, N242RP, almost flying.
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 19
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| Subject: | pneumatic squeezers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I've always used the 'unsightly' rings to guage the quality of the dimple.
Missing or half a ring, I did something wrong. Just another opinion....
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 in progress
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Frazier, Vincent A [mailto:VFrazier@usi.edu]
> Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 9:21 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: pneumatic squeezers
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
>
> SNIP Well, after trying this same setting with the pneumatic
> I discovered that there was a "fluting effect" because the
> pneumatic is so strong it was bending the metal slightly. My
> rudder spar was now bowed slightly, like a rib would be
> before fluting it....maybe 1/4" or so when you lay it flat on
> a table. SNIP
>
> In my experience, never use a pneumatic squeezer on hinge
> material unless you want a useless, banana shaped part.
>
> And always, always make sure that you have rounded the edges
> of your dies with your Scotchbrite wheel to avoid unsightly rings.
>
> Vince
>
>
> ============
> Matronics Forums.
> ============
> ============
> ============
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | For Sale: Avery RV Tools with Pneumatic Squeezer |
--> RV-List message posted by: Liz Taylor <n7011n@yahoo.com>
After deciding not to continue building my RV7 past
the empenage stage, I'm parting with my set of Avery
Tools. Attached is a .pdf Acrobat file containing
shots of my complete RV7 tool set I'm selling along
with images of the original invoice from Avery Tools.
Several items were added after the original purchase
and are not reflected in the original invoice. These
items are listed below:
-Precision Instruments 1/4" Drive Dial-Type Torque
Wrench with Memory, 0-75 lb.in (I discovered that the
cheap torque wrench I had purchased was not accurate
enough for aircraft construction. After twisting the
head off a bolt that was spec'd for only 24 inch/lbs,
I bought the best I could find. This lists for $199
online.
-Adjustable Rivet Cutter
-Quick change pins for the pneumatic squeezer (a great
addition since you'll frequently change the yokes)
-2nd cleco wrench
-Boelube-tube
These items roughly add up to an additional $250 over
the invoice price shown below of $2,422.
2 items that show up on the original invoice are not
included. These are a 24" metal ruler and the S/B
cutting and polishing wheel. I believe I have used up
1 or 2 of the cobalt bits. These are about a buck
apiece depending on the bit.
All of the tools are in like new shape as I only used
them on the tail kit for an RV7 with the drill bits
and countersink bits like new. Avery tools are great
quality. The pneumatic squeezer and 3 yokes with
adjustable set holder are not included in the basic
Avery Tools RV7 kit (good to know if you are trying to
compare my price with Avery's current pricing). Also
upgraded from the basic kit is the digital angle
finder, heavy duty ball bearing microstop countersink
cutter and metal micrometer. There may be others that
I'm forgetting. I just checked their website and it
looks like their prices have gone up since I purchased
these. To replace everything today would likely top
$3,000 for all the items I've listed here. I'd be
willing to part with everything for $2,100 (the items
I'm selling cost me $2,600 roughly). The buyer will
need to pay for shipping of their choice. I will also
require payment via cashier's check made out to my
name. If I can answer any questions, please call me at
312.943.5529 ext:14 during the day or e-mail me at richard@taylorbruce.com.
__________________________________
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Ellison Throttle Body |
--> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com>
Thanks Scott, I look into that, I am not sure yet how short it is because i havent
decided on exactly where I want to penetrate the firewall.
Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> wrote:--> RV-List message posted
by: Scott Bilinski
How short is it? Spruce sells extensions.......up to 6 inches I think.
At 12:42 PM 6/2/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps
>
>I am installing an Ellison Throttle Body on my 6A and find the standard
>length throttle cable does not work due to the 90 degree right
>orientation. I would like some info as to what length Throttle cable
>others have used for the Ellison and how they routed it through the firewall.
>
>Mark Phipps, N242RP, almost flying.
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
---------------------------------
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Modifying RV6 chin scoop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Boyce, Ph.D." <matronicspost@csg-i.com>
Shirley:
I had the same problem with my RV-7A and an XP-360 engine with FADEC.
Vertical clearances for the FAB and the cowl were very very tight. They were
rubbing. So I cut off the bottom portion of the scoop, lowered it by one
inch, re-fiberglassed and re-contoured and now no more problems. The
position of the air inlet hole was not altered.
I was lucky enough to have the advice of a Velocity builder. With hindsight,
it was a straightforward operation, though at the beginning I definitely did
not have the glass layup skills I needed. After all, I built a METAL
airplane! Get some advice before you start.
Regards,
Paul
Message 23
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| Subject: | RV Fly In Missouri |
--> RV-List message posted by: "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81@yahoo.com>
There is a fly in this weekend around Mt Vernon,MO. I
lost the info. Would someone let me know the
coordinates again, Thanks, Craig C
__________________________________
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: RV Fly In Missouri |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lwfeatherston@aol.com
Hi Craig, My name if Les Featherston. I had a wonderful FlyIn last year at
my small grass airstrip near Mt Vernon, MO. I would love it if you could come
on June 5th. Rebel's Bluff AS is named after a Civil War event that occurred
just about 200 yards off the end of RW 34. It is a 2,200' by 75' of very,
VERY nice sod runway. N37 06.1 and W93 52.2. Program Mt Vernon International
Airport (2MO) in your GPS and look 2 miles NNE for Rebel's Bluff. We are
getting together about 10:00AM till 5:00PM, and the Boy Scouts are having a fund
raiser for lunch. If you can spend the night, my wife and I would like to host
you for a steak or Bar-B-Que Chicken Dinner (About $8) with all the trimmings,
and you can camp on the airstrip or the local Super 8 is very nice for $50. I
will provide the transportation to Super 8. I must warn you, if you stay for
dinner, you will be forced to listen to some really old "war stories," but
most are somewhat true????????? I have AVgas 100LL for $2.25, and would love to
have you in. Where are you located, and what do you fly? Hope to see you,
Les 417-466-4663 Please RSVP for dinner as we are getting a bit crowded. Thx
Message 25
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| Subject: | Mason City Iowa Formation Clinic, get ready for Osh. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Each year, for the past year, Team RV and Falcon Flight, 2 RV formation
demonstration teams, sponsor and support a formation clinic in Mason
City Iowa the weekend prior to Oshkosh. This is a terrific event for
those who wish to obtain real hands on experience and training from
those who want to help you learn. A perfect start to your trip to Mecca.
Here is a snip from the home page located here.
http://www.mstewart.net/teamrv/formationclinic/masoncity04
<snip>
Welcome to the home page for the FREE , 2nd annual, formation clinic to
be held on July 24-26 , at the Mason City Airport, Mason City Iowa
(kmcw). There is no rain date. This is a 3 day event, beginning Saturday
afternoon at 3pm local time with a Mandatory Ground School , and ending
Monday morning with an all up formation, done by noon Monday. If you
wish to fly formation, you must attend the ground school Saturday.
Attendees, read and follow the instructions on every link above. Those
planning on attending the large RV formations at OSH are encouraged to
attend this training to brush up and top off.
This event has been scheduled to coincide with Airventure so you can
conveniently jump to Osh from Mason City.
The seminar will be held for all skill levels, beginner, intermediate,
and advanced. We will follow the brief &fly, brief & fly, brief & fly
schedule. The event is being hosted by Doug Rozendaal, organized by Mike
Stewart and Team RV, supported by Falcon Flight. Check Pilot Stu McCurdy
will be on hand to give check rides to those who qualify, or wish to
qualify. You MUST pre-arrange all check rides with Stu. Also on hand
will be some very experienced formation pilots to help train and mentor
the newbees.
<snip>
Mike Stewart
"Execution... the difference between aspiration and results"
Ram Charan, Author of the book Execution: The Discipline of Getting
Things Done
Do not archive
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Ellison Throttle Body |
--> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
Mark,
I'll have to check the length, probably the 60 incher. I went through the center
of the FW down the right side of the lower engine case.. I am using a center
mounted quadrant, but should be similar. What did you do about the lower (TB)
mixture bracket? That one has me stumped.
Greg
Honolulu
mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps
I am installing an Ellison Throttle Body on my 6A and find the standard length
throttle cable does not work due to the 90 degree right orientation. I would like
some info as to what length Throttle cable others have used for the Ellison
and how they routed it through the firewall.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, almost flying.
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: RV Fly In Missouri |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Craig Warner" <cwarner@twcny.rr.com>
Hi Les
Right now I am flying a Piper tri-Pacer. I am just finishing the empenage of
an RV6 non-pre-punched. Your fly in sounds interesting. Maybe next year
when the RV6 is flying ;-) Thanks for the invite.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lwfeatherston@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Fly In Missouri
> --> RV-List message posted by: Lwfeatherston@aol.com
>
> Hi Craig, My name if Les Featherston. I had a wonderful FlyIn last year
at
> my small grass airstrip near Mt Vernon, MO. I would love it if you could
come
> on June 5th. Rebel's Bluff AS is named after a Civil War event that
occurred
> just about 200 yards off the end of RW 34. It is a 2,200' by 75' of very,
> VERY nice sod runway. N37 06.1 and W93 52.2. Program Mt Vernon
International
> Airport (2MO) in your GPS and look 2 miles NNE for Rebel's Bluff. We are
> getting together about 10:00AM till 5:00PM, and the Boy Scouts are having
a fund
> raiser for lunch. If you can spend the night, my wife and I would like to
host
> you for a steak or Bar-B-Que Chicken Dinner (About $8) with all the
trimmings,
> and you can camp on the airstrip or the local Super 8 is very nice for
$50. I
> will provide the transportation to Super 8. I must warn you, if you stay
for
> dinner, you will be forced to listen to some really old "war stories," but
> most are somewhat true????????? I have AVgas 100LL for $2.25, and would
love to
> have you in. Where are you located, and what do you fly? Hope to see
you,
> Les 417-466-4663 Please RSVP for dinner as we are getting a bit crowded.
Thx
>
>
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