Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:57 AM - Re: Flying RV's in Ontario (Kevin Horton)
2. 05:36 AM - A question of size (Tim Butterworth)
3. 05:37 AM - Second hand tools (Tim Butterworth)
4. 05:42 AM - Re: Transponder not working (Dan DeNeal)
5. 07:52 AM - Re: Transponder not working (Steve & Denise)
6. 07:56 AM - Re: A question of size (Kyle Boatright)
7. 08:00 AM - Re: Expired Sectionals (Bobby Hester)
8. 08:02 AM - Re: A question of size (Phil Birkelbach)
9. 08:30 AM - Re: Expired Sectionals (Konrad Werner)
10. 09:04 AM - Re: Expired Sectionals (JNice51355@aol.com)
11. 09:15 AM - Re: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A (Jack Lockamy)
12. 09:19 AM - Re: Expired Sectionals (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
13. 09:20 AM - Re: Slider Canopy Rear Skirts ... No Problem! (Jack Lockamy)
14. 09:27 AM - Re: Slider Canopy Rear Skirts ... No Problem! (Denis Walsh)
15. 09:46 AM - Transponder not working (Emmanuelle Richard)
16. 10:03 AM - Re: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A (sportpilot)
17. 10:22 AM - Re: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A (Richard E. Tasker)
18. 10:23 AM - Re: Expired Sectionals (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
19. 11:37 AM - Re: Transponder not working (Steve & Denise)
20. 12:16 PM - Re: Transponder not working (Harvey Sigmon)
21. 12:29 PM - Re: A question of size (Ernest Kells)
22. 02:47 PM - Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing (Jordan Grant)
23. 03:04 PM - Re: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing (Dan Checkoway)
24. 06:54 PM - Re: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing (Jordan Grant)
25. 09:00 PM - low voltage (Knicholas2@aol.com)
26. 09:10 PM - Removing Cherry Rivets? (Bordelon, Greg)
27. 10:15 PM - Re: Second hand tools (Dave Smith)
28. 10:17 PM - Re: low voltage (James E. Clark)
29. 10:34 PM - Re: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing (Dan Checkoway)
30. 11:22 PM - Re: Removing Cherry Rivets? (Stein Bruch)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Flying RV's in Ontario |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ted Gauthier" <TGauthier@comcast.net>
>
>In the last 60 days, Terry Kohler has flown his RV-9 and I have flown my
>RV6 into Ontario, (twice). We met some great people and saw some good
>looking RV's.
>
>Just a note: This week I received a bill from Nav Canada for "charges
>for air navigation", the amount $CAN 17.39. I called 1-800-876-4693 and
>explained to them that my aircraft weight was under 617kg (1,360
>pounds). They told me that I was exempt and I was not required to pay
>the bill. The lady I spoke with at Nav Canada was polite and very
>helpful. All they asked was that I fax them my documented weight.
>
>Ted Gauthier, RV-6
>140 hours
>Pontiac, Michigan USA
Unfortunately the charges are based on maximum take-off weight. The
document that details the Nav Canada charges has the following
definition of weight:
""weight", in relation to an aircraft, means the maximum permissible
take-off weight (MTOW) specified in the aircraft's certificate of
airworthiness or in a document referred to in that certificate."
<http://www.navcanada.ca/ContentDefinitionFiles/Services/ChargesAndAdmin/guidetocharges/Customer_Guide_to_Charges_en.pdf>
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 2
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| Subject: | A question of size |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Butterworth" <Tim.Butterworth@CVLUK.COM>
A general question if I can please. I am on the verge of starting an RV9 build
project from the standard kit. My big reservation is that I only have a single
garage measuring 18.5 feet x 7.5 feet. Given that the finished fuselage length
is 20.5, is it wishful thinking that I can complete the task in such a small
place? Has anyone else done this and are there any trick to the trade?
Message 3
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| Subject: | Second hand tools |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Butterworth" <Tim.Butterworth@CVLUK.COM>
Hi, before I launch into a new build project (in the UK), can I ask if anyone who
has recently completed a kit would consider selling tools to help me out. I
would consider a set from the US if we can sort reasonable shipping costs. A
pneumatic riveter sounds a rather handy tool to start with!!
Thanks
Tim
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder not working |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
Steve,
I had the same problem last year. Finally took it over
to Muncie Indiana and had an electronic shop look at
it. They found that I had failed to install the snap
ring that holds the antenna wire to the case. My
antenna wire was loose from the back of the
transponder. So I would check and make sure all your
antenna wires are solid.
Good Luck
Dan DeNeal
RV6a 150 hrs.
--- Steve & Denise <sjhdcl@kingston.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve & Denise"
> <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
>
> Today my transponder quit working. I have a GTX327
> and an A-30 encoder wired using Approach Avionics
> hub.
>
> The transponder still shows the reply being carried
> out but ATC could not pick me up.
>
> The antenna is located far enough away from the comm
> antenna.
> I have checked the BNC connector on antenna.
>
> I'm going to order a different antenna and try that.
> The antenna I have is the normal rod type with the
> ball on the end.
> I've seen this problem with Microair transponders
> before and it turned out to be a problem with the
> unit. I've never heard
> of a problem with the 327.
>
> I do let the encoder warm up. On this mornings
> flight it was intermittent and ATC commented that I
> came in and out when
> I maneuvered. Can't really prove this as ot doesn't
> happen all the time. Then after flying for 1.5 hours
> I returned to the airport
> and ATC never received my transponder at all. No
> position, no altitude.
>
> Any other ideas of how to trouble shot this?
>
> Thanks
> Steve Hurlbut
> RV7A
> 90 hours
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder not working |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
Did you still see the reply light come on if this is the problem?
Steve
RV7A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan DeNeal" <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder not working
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
>
> Steve,
> I had the same problem last year. Finally took it over
> to Muncie Indiana and had an electronic shop look at
> it. They found that I had failed to install the snap
> ring that holds the antenna wire to the case. My
> antenna wire was loose from the back of the
> transponder. So I would check and make sure all your
> antenna wires are solid.
>
> Good Luck
> Dan DeNeal
> RV6a 150 hrs.
>
>
> --- Steve & Denise <sjhdcl@kingston.net> wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve & Denise"
> > <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
> >
> > Today my transponder quit working. I have a GTX327
> > and an A-30 encoder wired using Approach Avionics
> > hub.
> >
> > The transponder still shows the reply being carried
> > out but ATC could not pick me up.
> >
> > The antenna is located far enough away from the comm
> > antenna.
> > I have checked the BNC connector on antenna.
> >
> > I'm going to order a different antenna and try that.
> > The antenna I have is the normal rod type with the
> > ball on the end.
> > I've seen this problem with Microair transponders
> > before and it turned out to be a problem with the
> > unit. I've never heard
> > of a problem with the 327.
> >
> > I do let the encoder warm up. On this mornings
> > flight it was intermittent and ATC commented that I
> > came in and out when
> > I maneuvered. Can't really prove this as ot doesn't
> > happen all the time. Then after flying for 1.5 hours
> > I returned to the airport
> > and ATC never received my transponder at all. No
> > position, no altitude.
> >
> > Any other ideas of how to trouble shot this?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Steve Hurlbut
> > RV7A
> > 90 hours
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions
> > any other
> > Forums.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/chat
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://messenger.yahoo.com/
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: A question of size |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Can you complete the project in that space? Probably not. However, if
you're motivated, you can build the wings, tail, and fuselage there. Then
you'll need to take the beast outside on a series of nice days to fit the
empennage and wings. With the flying surfaces removed, you should be able
to install the engine in the space you describe.
After that, it is a matter of taking all of the big pieces to the airport
and fitting them together in the shape of an airplane.
The bottom line is that a space that small will make the overall process
more difficult, but it can be done..
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Butterworth" <Tim.Butterworth@cvluk.com>
Subject: RV-List: A question of size
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Butterworth"
<Tim.Butterworth@CVLUK.COM>
>
> A general question if I can please. I am on the verge of starting an RV9
build project from the standard kit. My big reservation is that I only have
a single garage measuring 18.5 feet x 7.5 feet. Given that the finished
fuselage length is 20.5, is it wishful thinking that I can complete the task
in such a small place? Has anyone else done this and are there any trick to
the trade?
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Expired Sectionals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
JNice51355@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: JNice51355@aol.com
>
>Does anybody know of a source for expired sectionals?? I need some of these
>for "pre" flight planning purposes. It could be useful in helping to
>establish a trip plan.
>Thanks
>Jim Nice
>
>
>
>
Check with http://www.buildersbooks.com/ I think they will send you
expired sectionals with an order.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: A question of size |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
No Doubt that will be tight, but I think that it can be done. You'll
probably have to have some place to store the stuff when you finish. Rent
some storage close to home for the tail and the wings as you finish them.
Remember that the finished length of the fuselage includes the rudder,
engine and spinner. My guess is that it'll fit in your space okay until you
are ready to assemble it. Then you'll probably have to move to the airport
and finish in the hangar.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach
RV7 727WB(Reserved)
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Butterworth" <Tim.Butterworth@cvluk.com>
Subject: RV-List: A question of size
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Butterworth"
<Tim.Butterworth@CVLUK.COM>
>
> A general question if I can please. I am on the verge of starting an RV9
build project from the standard kit. My big reservation is that I only have
a single garage measuring 18.5 feet x 7.5 feet. Given that the finished
fuselage length is 20.5, is it wishful thinking that I can complete the task
in such a small place? Has anyone else done this and are there any trick to
the trade?
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Expired Sectionals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
Dear Jim,
Ask the place where you usually buy your sectionals to hold some old one's for
you after they expire. Because they normally cut off the date part and send it
back as proof that they did not sell (for a refund/credit). The other part of
the sectional get's normally thrown away instead of returned to the supplier.
All you got to do is ask.
Konrad
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: JNice51355@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2004 3:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Expired Sectionals
--> RV-List message posted by: JNice51355@aol.com
Does anybody know of a source for expired sectionals?? I need some of these
for "pre" flight planning purposes. It could be useful in helping to
establish a trip plan.
Thanks
Jim Nice
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Expired Sectionals |
--> RV-List message posted by: JNice51355@aol.com
In a message dated 6/6/04 8:01:07 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
bhester@hopkinsville.net writes:
> Check with http://www.buildersbooks.com/ I think they will send you
> expired sectionals with an order.
>
Thanks. That was the reference I needed.
Jim Nice
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
1. OUTSTANDING! The workmanship is first class.....
2. All pieces are pre-cut. Glue and go.... No templates required.
3. Yes (in color....)
Wonderful lady to work with. Most importantly to me... she ships your interior
in a very timely manner (3 weeks in my case) and when she promised it (unlike
a lot of other vendors I have worked with).
I highly recommend Abby. Her interiors are a work of art!!!
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
-7A
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Expired Sectionals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Jim,
If we have expired charts left when the new revisions come out, I am always
glad to give them away. However we no longer keep them for that purpose or
advertise their availablility.
I did this a few years ago and it caused too many problems. We'd offer free
expired charts with any purchase (so I'd have a means of covering the
shipping cost) People would request a list of 25-30 free charts and then
I'd get hate mail for the next couple months cause I only had 22-23 of them.
This happened more often than you can imagine. So now, we clip the corners
for credit and use the rest of the chart for box stuffing.
Best thing to do if you want some is write to me 4-5 days before any new set
of revisions comes out and ask to be sent a copy of whatever is available.
No promisses, but I'll be happy to send whatever I've got. But please do so
with an order, even a small one, just so we have a manner to cover the
shipping cost.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
PilotsBooks
www.Pilotsbooks.com
> Check with http://www.buildersbooks.com/ I think they will send you
> expired sectionals with an order.
>
> --
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy Rear Skirts ... No Problem! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Jeff,
That was a question I was gonna ask.... should the 1/2" UHMV tape called for in
the plans be placed on the skirts or on the fuselage (after painting)?
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
-7A slider
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy Rear Skirts ... No Problem! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
I have tried it both ways and prefer the tape on the skirt, since it
doesn't show.
On Jun 6, 2004, at 10:19 AM, Jack Lockamy wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
>
> Jeff,
>
> That was a question I was gonna ask.... should the 1/2" UHMV tape
> called for in the plans be placed on the skirts or on the fuselage
> (after painting)?
>
> Jack Lockamy
> Camarillo, CA
> -7A slider
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Transponder not working |
--> RV-List message posted by: Emmanuelle Richard <frenchflyer21@yahoo.com>
I'm having the same situation. My set up is GTX 327, Ameriking AK-350 encoder
and blade antenna. All 3 years old.
Noticed the problem first when ATC could not pick me up and asked me to turn my
Xpdr on after T/Off - it was already on mode C the whole time. I checked the
BNC connections and cleaned the antenna. Another time ATC asked me to confirm
what altitude I was at and to turn off mode C. I noticed the "pressure altitude"
window indicate erratic altitudes once in a while, like you are at 2200ft
and it cycles through 1300, 6700, 5900, and settles on 2200. Also the (R) that
flashes on/off when the xpdr is interrogated does not flash as fast as it
used to. Anyway, problem appears to be intermittent.
I heard that Ameriking encoders tend to be the weak link. Would appreciate input
on that.
---------------------------------
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportpilot@moneypit.com>
whats the name of her company ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
>
> 1. OUTSTANDING! The workmanship is first class.....
>
> 2. All pieces are pre-cut. Glue and go.... No templates required.
>
> 3. Yes (in color....)
>
> Wonderful lady to work with. Most importantly to me... she ships your
interior in a very timely manner (3 weeks in my case) and when she promised
it (unlike a lot of other vendors I have worked with).
>
> I highly recommend Abby. Her interiors are a work of art!!!
>
> Jack Lockamy
> Camarillo, CA
> -7A
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Flightline Interiors, LLC. at http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/index.htm
Dick Tasker, 90573
sportpilot wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportpilot@moneypit.com>
>
>whats the name of her company ?
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
>To: "RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Abby Erdmann's Flight line interiors RV-6A
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
>>
>>1. OUTSTANDING! The workmanship is first class.....
>>
>>2. All pieces are pre-cut. Glue and go.... No templates required.
>>
>>3. Yes (in color....)
>>
>>Wonderful lady to work with. Most importantly to me... she ships your
>>
>>
>interior in a very timely manner (3 weeks in my case) and when she promised
>it (unlike a lot of other vendors I have worked with).
>
>
>>I highly recommend Abby. Her interiors are a work of art!!!
>>
>>Jack Lockamy
>>Camarillo, CA
>>-7A
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Expired Sectionals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Jim,
Here's another suggestion. The huge wall charts you see at some FBOs are called
JNC charts. Three make up the country (east, central, and west). they are
not expensive. The set of 3 is just $12.50. They show airports, VORs, some special
use airspace, and terrain. They are not revised very often, so you can't
use them for navigation, but they are perfectly good for initial planning.
Also, WACs are good for planning and have a 12 month revision life, as is a current
IFR/VFR planning chart, but those only show airports and airways - not terrain.
All three types are in the "other charts" section off of the Nav Charts category
on both Builder's Books and PilotsBooks
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
PilotsBooks
www.pilotsbooks.com
800 780-4115
----- Original Message -----
From: JNice51355@aol.com
To: winterland@rkymtnhi.com
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Expired Sectionals
In a message dated 6/6/04 9:19:57 AM Pacific Daylight Time, winterland@rkymtnhi.com
writes:
People would request a list of 25-30 free charts and then
I'd get hate mail for the next couple months cause I only had 22-23 of them.
Andy
I had sent you another email through one of the web sites before reading this
email. Sorry that folks send "hate mail". There's no excuse for that. For
the sake of your sanity, I will order from you through the web site, sectionals
I need that "will not" expire before or during my planned excursion. I will
just have to go down to the FBO and do some planning with the old charts on the
"wall", even if I need a ladder. They will not mind, since I am the one that
gave them most of those old maps. Just "can't wait" to formulate a "trip plan",
even though I "know" there will be changes along the way.
Thanks
Jim Nice
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder not working |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
My pressure altitude indication is pretty consistent. No problems there.
Its a tough problem to solve because recently the radar system has been
changed in this area. We are interrogated with 3 different
radars now all feeding into 1 system. Hard to say whos doing the
interrogation. I'll try calling different radar centres tomorrow
and see if anybody get me. I've always hated BNC connectors. That tiny pin
is side is not the best as far as I'm concerned. My
radio antenna has a screw terminal on it and its the best I've seen by far.
I'll try the BNC connection on the back of the transponder first.
Any others experienced in this please speak up.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emmanuelle Richard" <frenchflyer21@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Transponder not working
> --> RV-List message posted by: Emmanuelle Richard
<frenchflyer21@yahoo.com>
>
> I'm having the same situation. My set up is GTX 327, Ameriking AK-350
encoder and blade antenna. All 3 years old.
>
> Noticed the problem first when ATC could not pick me up and asked me to
turn my Xpdr on after T/Off - it was already on mode C the whole time. I
checked the BNC connections and cleaned the antenna. Another time ATC asked
me to confirm what altitude I was at and to turn off mode C. I noticed the
"pressure altitude" window indicate erratic altitudes once in a while, like
you are at 2200ft and it cycles through 1300, 6700, 5900, and settles on
2200. Also the (R) that flashes on/off when the xpdr is interrogated does
not flash as fast as it used to. Anyway, problem appears to be
intermittent.
>
> I heard that Ameriking encoders tend to be the weak link. Would
appreciate input on that.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder not working |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
Steve: I had a similar problem with my transponder, I tried every thing, it
would work fine on the ground with the test box connected. In flight no
reply, finally I checked the BNC connector at the antenna for the second
time. It had failed to the point you could pull it out of the connector.
It seems the vibration on the floor made the connection fail. Man it was
sure frustrating. Do not give up on the antenna wire connector.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder not working
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
>
> My pressure altitude indication is pretty consistent. No problems there.
>
> Its a tough problem to solve because recently the radar system has been
> changed in this area. We are interrogated with 3 different
> radars now all feeding into 1 system. Hard to say whos doing the
> interrogation. I'll try calling different radar centres tomorrow
> and see if anybody get me. I've always hated BNC connectors. That tiny pin
> is side is not the best as far as I'm concerned. My
> radio antenna has a screw terminal on it and its the best I've seen by
far.
>
> I'll try the BNC connection on the back of the transponder first.
>
> Any others experienced in this please speak up.
>
> Steve
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Emmanuelle Richard" <frenchflyer21@yahoo.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Transponder not working
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Emmanuelle Richard
> <frenchflyer21@yahoo.com>
> >
> > I'm having the same situation. My set up is GTX 327, Ameriking AK-350
> encoder and blade antenna. All 3 years old.
> >
> > Noticed the problem first when ATC could not pick me up and asked me to
> turn my Xpdr on after T/Off - it was already on mode C the whole time. I
> checked the BNC connections and cleaned the antenna. Another time ATC
asked
> me to confirm what altitude I was at and to turn off mode C. I noticed
the
> "pressure altitude" window indicate erratic altitudes once in a while,
like
> you are at 2200ft and it cycles through 1300, 6700, 5900, and settles on
> 2200. Also the (R) that flashes on/off when the xpdr is interrogated does
> not flash as fast as it used to. Anyway, problem appears to be
> intermittent.
> >
> > I heard that Ameriking encoders tend to be the weak link. Would
> appreciate input on that.
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> >
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: A question of size |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
>> Can you complete the project in that space? Probably not. However, if
you're motivated, you can build the wings, tail, and fuselage there. Then
you'll need to take the beast outside on a series of nice days to fit the
empennage and wings. With the flying surfaces removed, you should be able
to install the engine in the space you describe. <<
You will vastly improve your capability to finish your project with greater
quality if you configure your project environment to be as comfortable and
as accommodating as possible. You will spend a lot of time there. Make it
an enjoyable experience.
I can't imagine how you can make a plane in an 18.5' x 7.5' garage. I'm 95%
done on the same RV-9A. At the time that you "flip the canoe" so that the
fuselage is right side up you will still be near the beginning of the
project. BTW: You have to put the engine mount on before you do the legs.
The legs and steps use up all of your 7.5'. Do you plan to put primer on
your metal? You will need a safe place nearby - with a separate breathable
air source, to prep and paint both large and small pieces. You will also
need a work bench where you can run a bench grinder, drill press, etc. It
needs a runout area. You will also need a work table for most of your work.
Many things are done "in assembly" or require detailed fitting. Takes work
space and walk around space. Needs to be near the project. Do you plan to
use air tools for painting and assembly work (where will you put the
compressor?). Where will you put your file drawers for parts and hardware?
Needs to be near your work table and the project. Where will you be able to
lay out one or two drawings, the parts, the tools, the builder's manual and
the hardware as well as be able to work on the assembly at the same time.
Do you have room to sit down (concrete floors are hard)? Can you make a
coffee, have a visitor, play a radio, etc., etc.? Building is a lifestyle
that will define your life. Increase your odds of completing your plane as
well as having fun.
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Listers:
I am working on the fuel system for my Airflow Performance Fuel
Injection. My XP-360 came from Aerosport power with the "distribution"
manifold already mounted on the top of the engine. It has a fuel hose coming
out of the bottom of it and routed down between the two cylinders on the
right side of the engine. My question is:
How should I route this hose to get to the AFP throttle body?
Right now, my best theory is to take it aft immediately under the
cylinders - this puts it in-between the cylinders and the intake manifold
pipes. Then route it over the bracket that mounts the mixture control and
into the fitting on the throttle body. My only concern is that this makes
some relatively sharp bends in the hose. I don't 'think' that there are any
kinks in the hose this way, but its a pretty important hose so I thought I'd
ask to see what others have done in case there is a better way.
Thanks in advance,
Jordan Grant
RV-6 Fuel System Stuff
N198G Reserved
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Jordan,
Typically that hose runs straight down from the flow divider to the injector
servo and has a 90-degree bend on the bottom end. Will your setup not
permit a straight-down run between #1 & #3?
If the hose you have doesn't work and you need a custom hose, I highly
recommend PHT (Precision Hose Technology). http://www.aircrafthose.com The
best prices (at least as far as I could find), and very helpful folks.
I've got some notes on installing an AFP FM-200 on my horizontal induction
IO-360-A1B6 here: http://www.rvproject.com/20030728.html I presume you've
got vertical induction, so this may or may not be helpful.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>
> Listers:
> I am working on the fuel system for my Airflow Performance Fuel
> Injection. My XP-360 came from Aerosport power with the "distribution"
> manifold already mounted on the top of the engine. It has a fuel hose
coming
> out of the bottom of it and routed down between the two cylinders on the
> right side of the engine. My question is:
>
> How should I route this hose to get to the AFP throttle body?
>
> Right now, my best theory is to take it aft immediately under the
> cylinders - this puts it in-between the cylinders and the intake manifold
> pipes. Then route it over the bracket that mounts the mixture control and
> into the fitting on the throttle body. My only concern is that this makes
> some relatively sharp bends in the hose. I don't 'think' that there are
any
> kinks in the hose this way, but its a pretty important hose so I thought
I'd
> ask to see what others have done in case there is a better way.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 Fuel System Stuff
> N198G Reserved
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Dan,
Thanks for the reply. My installation does have the vertical induction.
The
outlet fitting is on the aft side of the throttle body, pointed upwards. The
engine came with the hose routed straight down between #1 and #3 - but I
can't hook it up to the throttle body by going straight down unless I kind
of go under the throttle cable linkage, around the throttle cable arms, and
then put a mighty twist in the hose to get it to hook up to the outlet
fitting. The OTHER problem with this is the hose is pressed up against one
of the exhaust pipes. It is firesleeved - but it didn't seem prudent to push
my luck by pressing this hose against such a hot part of the engine. I saw
your pictures, and it seemed like a different problem for you since the
outlet fitting was on the side of the induction, not the back.
Oh yeah - I could rotate the throttle body 180 degrees and put the outlet
in front, but then my control arm throws would both be backwards.
Thanks for your help,
Jordan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Jordan,
Typically that hose runs straight down from the flow divider to the injector
servo and has a 90-degree bend on the bottom end. Will your setup not
permit a straight-down run between #1 & #3?
If the hose you have doesn't work and you need a custom hose, I highly
recommend PHT (Precision Hose Technology). http://www.aircrafthose.com The
best prices (at least as far as I could find), and very helpful folks.
I've got some notes on installing an AFP FM-200 on my horizontal induction
IO-360-A1B6 here: http://www.rvproject.com/20030728.html I presume you've
got vertical induction, so this may or may not be helpful.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>
> Listers:
> I am working on the fuel system for my Airflow Performance Fuel
> Injection. My XP-360 came from Aerosport power with the "distribution"
> manifold already mounted on the top of the engine. It has a fuel hose
coming
> out of the bottom of it and routed down between the two cylinders on the
> right side of the engine. My question is:
>
> How should I route this hose to get to the AFP throttle body?
>
> Right now, my best theory is to take it aft immediately under the
> cylinders - this puts it in-between the cylinders and the intake manifold
> pipes. Then route it over the bracket that mounts the mixture control and
> into the fitting on the throttle body. My only concern is that this makes
> some relatively sharp bends in the hose. I don't 'think' that there are
any
> kinks in the hose this way, but its a pretty important hose so I thought
I'd
> ask to see what others have done in case there is a better way.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 Fuel System Stuff
> N198G Reserved
>
>
Message 25
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
I have recently been running the engine on my RV9A for the first time. I am
getting "low voltage" readings and seem to be getting only 11.5 volts and "low
Battery" messages on my micromonitor. I am using Vans 60 amp alternator with
build-in voltage regulator.
Any ideas?
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - FAA inspection this week!
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Removing Cherry Rivets? |
0.8 REMOVE_REMOVAL_NEAR List removal information
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
Guys, I am well versed in removing plain rivets. However, removing these Cherry
rivets with the steel inserts are very difficult. Any smart methods out there
on how to get these our with the least damage to the hole? The archive was not
fruitful.
Thanks - Greg
remove cherry rivet
remove pop rivet
remove blind rivet
please archive
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Second hand tools |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Smith" <dave@rv10project.net>
Tim,
You might check ebay. I got a pretty good deal on a pneumatic squeezer up
there, and I'm guessing you'd be able to find several of the larger 'big
buck' items.
------------------------------------------
Dave Smith
http://www.rv10project.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Butterworth
Subject: RV-List: Second hand tools
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Butterworth"
--> <Tim.Butterworth@CVLUK.COM>
Hi, before I launch into a new build project (in the UK), can I ask if
anyone who has recently completed a kit would consider selling tools to help
me out. I would consider a set from the US if we can sort reasonable
shipping costs. A pneumatic riveter sounds a rather handy tool to start
with!!
Thanks
Tim
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 28
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Do you know for a fact that the alternator has ever worked? Stated
differently ...
Did you **just** start the engine, using a fully charged battery and the
voltage thereafter showed 11.5 with no change?
Do you have anything that measures either the amperage out of the alternator
or into the battery?
Kim,
Do you have a good connection for the alternator "field" wire? When you
switch the alternator on (or is it always "switched" on?) do you see **ANY**
change in voltage?
Sorry to try to answer with so many questions but the answers may help find
the answer.
James
(Van's big alternator on RV6)
[SNIP]
> Subject: RV-List: low voltage
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
>
> I have recently been running the engine on my RV9A for the first
> time. I am
> getting "low voltage" readings and seem to be getting only 11.5
> volts and "low
> Battery" messages on my micromonitor. I am using Vans 60 amp
> alternator with
> build-in voltage regulator.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A - FAA inspection this week!
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Jordan,
I would do your best to keep that hose run as short and straight as humanly
possible. That's metered fuel in there, and any length or complexity you
add to that run is going to have an effect on throttle & mixture response
(at least I assume it will). It will also increase the potential for vapor
lock. I wouldn't even think about twisting and curving that hose
(especially near exhaust) if you have an alternative. Straight up is best.
The AFP manual indicates that the servo can be mounted at any attitude or
angle. I would explore other mounting options if that's a possibility. You
might be able to mount it 90 degrees rotated from where you've currently got
it, and that will solve the hose problem. Of course that might cause other
control linkage challenges, but those are relatively easy to solve. In case
this is any consolation, I got my engine from Bart with the FM-200 installed
already, hose connected, etc. -- but I ended up having to rotate the servo
90 degrees to make things work.
Scott Bilinski has a very similar engine setup as you, I believe. AFP on a
vertical sump. I think he monitors this list...
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>
> Dan,
> Thanks for the reply. My installation does have the vertical
induction. The
> outlet fitting is on the aft side of the throttle body, pointed upwards.
The
> engine came with the hose routed straight down between #1 and #3 - but I
> can't hook it up to the throttle body by going straight down unless I kind
> of go under the throttle cable linkage, around the throttle cable arms,
and
> then put a mighty twist in the hose to get it to hook up to the outlet
> fitting. The OTHER problem with this is the hose is pressed up against one
> of the exhaust pipes. It is firesleeved - but it didn't seem prudent to
push
> my luck by pressing this hose against such a hot part of the engine. I saw
> your pictures, and it seemed like a different problem for you since the
> outlet fitting was on the side of the induction, not the back.
> Oh yeah - I could rotate the throttle body 180 degrees and put the
outlet
> in front, but then my control arm throws would both be backwards.
>
> Thanks for your help,
> Jordan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Jordan,
>
> Typically that hose runs straight down from the flow divider to the
injector
> servo and has a 90-degree bend on the bottom end. Will your setup not
> permit a straight-down run between #1 & #3?
>
> If the hose you have doesn't work and you need a custom hose, I highly
> recommend PHT (Precision Hose Technology). http://www.aircrafthose.com
The
> best prices (at least as far as I could find), and very helpful folks.
>
> I've got some notes on installing an AFP FM-200 on my horizontal induction
> IO-360-A1B6 here: http://www.rvproject.com/20030728.html I presume
you've
> got vertical induction, so this may or may not be helpful.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
> >
> > Listers:
> > I am working on the fuel system for my Airflow Performance Fuel
> > Injection. My XP-360 came from Aerosport power with the "distribution"
> > manifold already mounted on the top of the engine. It has a fuel hose
> coming
> > out of the bottom of it and routed down between the two cylinders on the
> > right side of the engine. My question is:
> >
> > How should I route this hose to get to the AFP throttle body?
> >
> > Right now, my best theory is to take it aft immediately under the
> > cylinders - this puts it in-between the cylinders and the intake
manifold
> > pipes. Then route it over the bracket that mounts the mixture control
and
> > into the fitting on the throttle body. My only concern is that this
makes
> > some relatively sharp bends in the hose. I don't 'think' that there are
> any
> > kinks in the hose this way, but its a pretty important hose so I thought
> I'd
> > ask to see what others have done in case there is a better way.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Jordan Grant
> > RV-6 Fuel System Stuff
> > N198G Reserved
> >
> >
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Removing Cherry Rivets? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Greg,
There are basically two or three ways to remove a cherry rivet. It depends
on the type of cherry rivet and the material they are made of (yes Virginia,
there are MANY different types of "Cherry" rivets). In almost all cases,
the pin is some variant of steel, and if you simply try to drill it without
removing the center pin, you'll make a mess.
Method #1: For button or countersink head soft metal cherry rivets.
With a backing of some sort, try to drive out the pin from the front, then
drill off the head VERY carefully. May have to be done at a slight angle to
keep the rivet from spinning...then remove like a normal rivet.
Method #2: For button head hard metal rivets.
Drive out the pin as described above if possible. Some cherry type rivets
have captive pins and that's not possible, so the only alternative is to
grind off the head with either a sanding type disc/barrel, or a pointed
rasp/stone on a dremel. Be VERY carfull with doing this, and don't grind off
all of the head. Basically you should leave a few thousands of material
before you get to the base metal that was riveted. Then you should be able
to punch the rivet out.
Method #3: One of the best removal methods if access to the back side of
the rivet (not usually possible, hence the use of a "blind rivet")....but,
you can cut/snip/grind the back of the rivet off and drive it out from the
back.
Hope this helps......
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bordelon, Greg
Subject: RV-List: Removing Cherry Rivets?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
Guys, I am well versed in removing plain rivets. However, removing these
Cherry rivets with the steel inserts are very difficult. Any smart methods
out there on how to get these our with the least damage to the hole? The
archive was not fruitful.
Thanks - Greg
remove cherry rivet
remove pop rivet
remove blind rivet
please archive
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