Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:56 AM - Re: Removing Cherry Rivets (BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks))
2. 05:11 AM - Re: low voltage (linn walters)
3. 06:16 AM - Re: Second hand tools (Bill VonDane)
4. 08:00 AM - Re: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing (Phil Birkelbach)
5. 08:41 AM - Re: Boone Annual RV Day (tacaruth@ralcorp.com)
6. 09:43 AM - Re: Boone Annual RV Day (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
7. 09:55 AM - How to determine the proper governor (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
8. 10:01 AM - Langley Fly-in This Saturday (Tedd McHenry)
9. 10:40 AM - Re: A question of size (Jeff Cours)
10. 11:08 AM - Re: How to determine the proper governor (Mike Robertson)
11. 01:22 PM - UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor (DAVID REEL)
12. 01:41 PM - Re: UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor (Ralph E. Capen)
13. 01:45 PM - Re: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing (Jordan Grant)
14. 01:54 PM - Re: UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor (Terry Watson)
15. 01:59 PM - Speaking of Beautiful fixed pitched Props... (Rabaut, Chuck)
16. 03:05 PM - Phoenix Hangar Available (Paul Besing)
17. 04:02 PM - N89DD 1st flt. (J. R. Dial)
18. 04:28 PM - Re: N89DD 1st flt. (Serge Boucher)
19. 05:24 PM - Re: Utility Of Removing Forward Baggage Floor (Charlie Kuss)
20. 05:44 PM - Re: A question of size (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG))
21. 06:10 PM - Re: N89DD 1st flt. (Stein Bruch)
22. 06:27 PM - Re: UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor (Charles Rowbotham)
23. 07:57 PM - Re: N89DD 1st flt. (Kathleen (rv7))
24. 08:33 PM - Re: Removing Cherry Rivets? (Scott Vanartsdalen)
25. 10:46 PM - Prop question... (Travis Hamblen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Removing Cherry Rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks)
I took a straight rivet gun set and modified it to have a small pin on
the end. I rough cut it with a hack saw and then chucked it in a drill
and spun it while holding against a belt sander to shape it. The pin is
slightly less in diameter than the rivet mandrel and about 1/4" long. It
only took about 30 minutes to make. I expected the pin to break on the
first try, but I've used it about a dozen times and it's holding up
fine. It will drive the mandrel on a Cherry-Max as soon as you pull the
trigger. Then you just drill the rivet head and snap it off as usual.
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Knicholas2@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
>
>I have recently been running the engine on my RV9A for the first time. I am
>getting "low voltage" readings and seem to be getting only 11.5 volts and "low
>Battery" messages on my micromonitor. I am using Vans 60 amp alternator with
>build-in voltage regulator.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>Kim Nicholas
>RV9A - FAA inspection this week!
>
Go to http://www.aeroelectric.com/ and check out their troubleshooting
guides. If you don't find what you need, email Bob. I suspect a
regulator or wiring problem. For all the mistery, charging systems are
pretty dirt simple.
Linn
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Second hand tools |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
try these guys: www.clearairtools.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Smith" <dave@rv10project.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Second hand tools
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Smith" <dave@rv10project.net>
Tim,
You might check ebay. I got a pretty good deal on a pneumatic squeezer up
there, and I'm guessing you'd be able to find several of the larger 'big
buck' items.
------------------------------------------
Dave Smith
http://www.rv10project.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Butterworth
Subject: RV-List: Second hand tools
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Butterworth"
--> <Tim.Butterworth@CVLUK.COM>
Hi, before I launch into a new build project (in the UK), can I ask if
anyone who has recently completed a kit would consider selling tools to help
me out. I would consider a set from the US if we can sort reasonable
shipping costs. A pneumatic riveter sounds a rather handy tool to start
with!!
Thanks
Tim
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
I have a similar setup. My hose goes down between the two cylinders, is
clamped to the bottom of the intake tube and then goes right under the
control cable to the servo. I had to trim the AFP mounting bracket to get
it to go. It was painfull cutting into that beautiful anodized part but it
worked okay.
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=541
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=533
Yes that control cable bracket is flimsy. :-) I promise I'll fix it.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>
> Listers:
> I am working on the fuel system for my Airflow Performance Fuel
> Injection. My XP-360 came from Aerosport power with the "distribution"
> manifold already mounted on the top of the engine. It has a fuel hose
coming
> out of the bottom of it and routed down between the two cylinders on the
> right side of the engine. My question is:
>
> How should I route this hose to get to the AFP throttle body?
>
> Right now, my best theory is to take it aft immediately under the
> cylinders - this puts it in-between the cylinders and the intake manifold
> pipes. Then route it over the bracket that mounts the mixture control and
> into the fitting on the throttle body. My only concern is that this makes
> some relatively sharp bends in the hose. I don't 'think' that there are
any
> kinks in the hose this way, but its a pretty important hose so I thought
I'd
> ask to see what others have done in case there is a better way.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 Fuel System Stuff
> N198G Reserved
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Boone Annual RV Day |
06/07/2004 10:40:49 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: tacaruth@ralcorp.com
Times???
"Ralph Koger"
<rhkoger@fbx.com>
Sent by: To
owner-rv-list-ser <rv-list@matronics.com>
ver@matronics.com cc
Subject
06/05/2004 05:11 Re: RV-List: Boone Annual RV Day
PM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph Koger" <rhkoger@fbx.com>
Sorry about not giving complete information about location of Boone, IA RV
day. Airport indemnification is BNW. Also, forgot to say that there is a
swap for cash or trade items. If you come you can buy a Koger SunShade at
wholesale price. Thank you for bringing this to my attention.
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph Koger" <rhkoger@fbx.com>
> >
> > Join us Saturday June 12th for the "ANNUAL BOONE RV DAY"
> >
> > See completed RVs and the many projects in process.
> > RV-6; three RV-7s; RV-8 and two RV-10s.
> >
> > Planned presentations on many RV related topics.
> >
> > Planning for the interior by DJ Lauritsen
> > Wireing Aircraft systems.
> > First Flight/transition by Stu VanDyke
> > Getting the most from your GPS by Chuck Genz
> > Doing a thorough annual by Dave Kuykendal
> >
> > Of course the usual coffee & donuts and noon-catered lunch of BBQ Pork
Sandwiches.
> >
> > For more information Ralph Koger rhkoger@fbx.com
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not copy
message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Boone Annual RV Day |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Here's the link with all the info available.
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/rvday.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
tacaruth@ralcorp.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Boone Annual RV Day
--> RV-List message posted by: tacaruth@ralcorp.com
Times???
"Ralph Koger"
<rhkoger@fbx.com>
Sent by:
To
owner-rv-list-ser <rv-list@matronics.com>
ver@matronics.com
cc
Subject
06/05/2004 05:11 Re: RV-List: Boone Annual RV Day
PM
Please respond to
rv-list@matronics
.com
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph Koger" <rhkoger@fbx.com>
Sorry about not giving complete information about location of Boone, IA
RV day. Airport indemnification is BNW. Also, forgot to say that there
is a swap for cash or trade items. If you come you can buy a Koger
SunShade at wholesale price. Thank you for bringing this to my
attention.
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph Koger" <rhkoger@fbx.com>
> >
> > Join us Saturday June 12th for the "ANNUAL BOONE RV DAY"
> >
> > See completed RVs and the many projects in process.
> > RV-6; three RV-7s; RV-8 and two RV-10s.
> >
> > Planned presentations on many RV related topics.
> >
> > Planning for the interior by DJ Lauritsen
> > Wireing Aircraft systems.
> > First Flight/transition by Stu VanDyke
> > Getting the most from your GPS by Chuck Genz
> > Doing a thorough annual by Dave Kuykendal
> >
> > Of course the usual coffee & donuts and noon-catered lunch of BBQ
> > Pork
Sandwiches.
> >
> > For more information Ralph Koger rhkoger@fbx.com
If you are not the intended addressee indicated in this message (or
responsible for delivery of the message to such person), you may not
copy message and kindly notify the sender by reply email. Please advise
immediately if you or your employer do not consent to internet email for
messages of this kind.
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 7
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| Subject: | How to determine the proper governor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Gents,
After scouring the web, I have been unable to get a compatibility list
of sorts to match governors to engines.
Example... I would like to know which McCauley governor C290D5G/T17 will
fit an io-540 and a hatrz prop. Or any other combination.
Any quick references here?
Thanks
Michael Stewart
Do not archive yet
Message 8
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| Subject: | Langley Fly-in This Saturday |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
Just a reminder that the Langley (B.C.) fly-in (annual fly-in of VAF Western
Canada Wing) is this Saturday, June 12. See our web site for details, and
border-crossing information if you're coming from the U.S.
http://www.vansairforce.org/CYNJ/
Langley is 20 nm north of Bellingham, WA. Feel free to email me off-list if
you have any questions.
---
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
www.vansairforce.org
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: A question of size |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
> A general question if I can please. I am on the verge of starting an
> RV9 build project from the standard kit. My big reservation is that I
> only have a single garage measuring 18.5 feet x 7.5 feet. Given that
> the finished fuselage length is 20.5, is it wishful thinking that I
> can complete the task in such a small place?
I'm still very early in the construction of my RV, so this advice may
not be worth a whole lot :-) , but my experience working on other
projects has been that solutions present themselves once you get started.
For example, I've seen pictures of builders who've built temporary
extensions to their garages using PVC pipe and plastic sheeting to get a
few extra feet for the time they're working on the long stuff. Or, in
the process of building, you might meet someone who's willing to loan
you some hangar space. Or, here in the States, there are self storage
places that will rent space, some of which is garage-sized. There's even
a builder in the local EAA chapter who was living in Taiwan when he
started his Kitfox. He began building the wing in his back yard. It was
so long that he got permission from the neighbors -- on both sides -- to
let it overhang their yards while he worked on it.
In my own shop, to make the best use of limited space, most of the tools
are on wheels or castors. Also, the work table is modular and has
removable legs, to make it easy to reconfigure as the project
progresses. The work "bench", with the grinder and vice, is really a
rolling tool cart based on one of the Bingelis designs. And, this past
weekend, after trying to prime one too many times in gusty winds, I
started on a small, collapsible spray booth -- more of a fume hood,
really -- that'll let me prime smaller parts in the garage instead of
the windy driveway, but will store out of the way when it's not in use.
Given that you need only a few extra feet, and only during part of the
project, it certainly seems possible.
Good luck!
Jeff C.
Message 10
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| Subject: | How to determine the proper governor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Mike,
That is because there isn't a list. You need to first match the governor to
the prop, then narrow down the list for the engine. In lots of cases the
governor doesn't care which engine it is on. Check with the prop
manufacturer first.
Miek Robertson
>From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>, <rocket-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: How to determine the proper governor
>Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 12:52:13 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
><mstewart@iss.net>
>
>Gents,
>
>After scouring the web, I have been unable to get a compatibility list
>of sorts to match governors to engines.
>
>Example... I would like to know which McCauley governor C290D5G/T17 will
>fit an io-540 and a hatrz prop. Or any other combination.
>
>
>Any quick references here?
>
>
>Thanks
>
>Michael Stewart
>
>Do not archive yet
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor |
3.8 TRACKER_ID BODY: Incorporates a tracking ID number
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Has anyone found it useful to remove the forward baggage floor and well panels
after construction? I'm thinking of using them to support adel clamps for wiring
and control cable runs which will make them harder to remove and obstruct
the opening somewhat when removed.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
I've got my ELT under there - I've seen them used for oil storage (with associated
doors etc).
-----Original Message-----
From: DAVID REEL <dreel@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Has anyone found it useful to remove the forward baggage floor and well panels
after construction? I'm thinking of using them to support adel clamps for wiring
and control cable runs which will make them harder to remove and obstruct
the opening somewhat when removed.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 13
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| Subject: | Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Yup, I think mine is almost exactly the same. The only difference is I
routed my hose over the control cable instead of under it. Michael Robbins
is going to send me a picture of his RV-8 setup, so we'll see if this is the
standard. I also E-mailed Aerosport Power, so if they tell me something
similar, I'll post that for the archives.
Jordan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach
Subject: Re: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
I have a similar setup. My hose goes down between the two cylinders, is
clamped to the bottom of the intake tube and then goes right under the
control cable to the servo. I had to trim the AFP mounting bracket to get
it to go. It was painfull cutting into that beautiful anodized part but it
worked okay.
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=541
http://www.myrv7.com/viewimage.php?pictureid=533
Yes that control cable bracket is flimsy. :-) I promise I'll fix it.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: Airflow Performance (AFP) fuel hose routing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>
> Listers:
> I am working on the fuel system for my Airflow Performance Fuel
> Injection. My XP-360 came from Aerosport power with the "distribution"
> manifold already mounted on the top of the engine. It has a fuel hose
coming
> out of the bottom of it and routed down between the two cylinders on the
> right side of the engine. My question is:
>
> How should I route this hose to get to the AFP throttle body?
>
> Right now, my best theory is to take it aft immediately under the
> cylinders - this puts it in-between the cylinders and the intake manifold
> pipes. Then route it over the bracket that mounts the mixture control and
> into the fitting on the throttle body. My only concern is that this makes
> some relatively sharp bends in the hose. I don't 'think' that there are
any
> kinks in the hose this way, but its a pretty important hose so I thought
I'd
> ask to see what others have done in case there is a better way.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 Fuel System Stuff
> N198G Reserved
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
David,
I cut maybe the forward 8" or so off the panel that separates the rudder
pedals from the lower part of the baggage compartment for the reasons you
noted. My fuse blocks, second battery, and cross-feed and 2nd battery
contactor are in the bottom of the forward baggage well. I will still screw
it in place with the nutplates, but I don't expect to ever remove it, since
it will have wires running through it. I used a pair of stiffener angles
back to back each side of the seam with nutplates in it to make the now two
panels back into one, and give me a place to unfasten the removable part.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Wiring
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DAVID REEL
Subject: RV-List: UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Has anyone found it useful to remove the forward baggage floor and well
panels after construction? I'm thinking of using them to support adel
clamps for wiring and control cable runs which will make them harder to
remove and obstruct the opening somewhat when removed.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Speaking of Beautiful fixed pitched Props... |
"rv4-list@matronics. com \(E-mail\)" <rv4-list@matronics.com>,
"rv6-list@matronics. com \(E-mail\)" <rv6-list@matronics.com>,
"rv7-list@matronics. com \(E-mail\)" <rv7-list@matronics.com>,
"rv8-list@matronics. com \(E-mail\)" <rv8-list@matronics.com>,
"rv-list@matronics. com \(E-mail\)" <rv-list@matronics.com>
2.6 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS Similar addresses in recipient list
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut@fresnosheriff.org>
Hi guys & Gals,
I just received my new Prop from "CloudCars". It looks BEAUTIFUL. This
prop reminds me of the high quality & low price we use to get from Pacesetter
Props. Pacesetter is no longer in business but man did I love my old Pacesetter
prop. The guy who made my new prop is Jay Anderson. He is very knowledgeable
and willing to work with you to get a custom Prop that you will love.
His prices are extremely fair (I got mine for about $500.oo including s your
price may vary depending on what you want) and the delivery time was only about
6 weeks. For a custom made, quality Prop you can't beat that price with a
stick. You can contact Jay at cloudcars99@yahoo.com or (325) 356-2810. His
motto/slogan is "Quality Wood Propellers at Reasonable Prices". I'm a satisfied
customer.
**note: I get no discount, nor do I have any financial interest in this
business.** We experimental builders & flyers should support small businesses
that provide quality products & service at reasonable prices. That's why
I'm sharing this hot tip with all the RV folks. If you call him, tell 'em Chuck
says "Hi".
Chuck
Message 16
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| Subject: | Phoenix Hangar Available |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
My hangar at Deer Valley Airport (DVT) will be available for rent July 1.
Lots of RV's on the field, 2 on my row alone. Please reply off list.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Someday
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> David,
>
> I cut maybe the forward 8" or so off the panel that separates the rudder
> pedals from the lower part of the baggage compartment for the reasons you
> noted. My fuse blocks, second battery, and cross-feed and 2nd battery
> contactor are in the bottom of the forward baggage well. I will still
screw
> it in place with the nutplates, but I don't expect to ever remove it,
since
> it will have wires running through it. I used a pair of stiffener angles
> back to back each side of the seam with nutplates in it to make the now
two
> panels back into one, and give me a place to unfasten the removable part.
>
> Terry
> RV-8A #80729
> Wiring
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DAVID REEL
> To: rvlist
> Subject: RV-List: UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> Has anyone found it useful to remove the forward baggage floor and well
> panels after construction? I'm thinking of using them to support adel
> clamps for wiring and control cable runs which will make them harder to
> remove and obstruct the opening somewhat when removed.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Made the first flight in my RV6 N89DD Saturday June 5th at Spicewood
Apt. (88R) west of Austin, TX. All went perfect and I now have my new RV
grin. Thanks for all of the help I have received from the list.
Dick Dial
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Serge Boucher" <serge.boucher4@sympatico.ca>
Congrats on a job well done including the first flight.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. R. Dial
Subject: RV-List: N89DD 1st flt.
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Made the first flight in my RV6 N89DD Saturday June 5th at Spicewood
Apt. (88R) west of Austin, TX. All went perfect and I now have my new RV
grin. Thanks for all of the help I have received from the list.
Dick Dial
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Utility Of Removing Forward Baggage Floor |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Dave,
Yes, you will need to remove the floor occasionally. Any work on the brake master
cylinders, fittings, hoses or electric fuel pump & filter will be much easier
with the floor removed. I made small spacer blocks to fit between the baggage
compartment rear wall as well as the floor. These spacer blocks are countersunk.
They stand the Adel clamps off the surfaces and allow the use of flush screws
(so that you don't have "pan" style screw heads sticking out on the baggage
compartment wall and floor) I have having hardware that snags on stowed items.
I can remove the Adel clamps from the removable parts quite quickly. I can
send you photos off list if you like.
Charlie Kuss
RV-8A wiring
PS Is the space bar broken on your keyboard?? :-)
>--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
>Has anyone found it useful to remove the forward baggage floor and well panels
after construction? I'm thinking of using them to support adel clamps for wiring
and control cable runs which will make them harder to remove and obstruct
the opening somewhat when removed.
>
>Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | A question of size |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
The RV-6 fuselage jig is 14' long by 4' wide. If necessary, the firewall
end could be placed against a wall, but I think that would be
inconvenient. So you need a space about 20' long by 8' wide (plus
workbench, storage, etc.) to build your fuselage.
So, the short answer is that you couldn't complete the project in the
space you've got.
The long answer is that with a bit of extra work or money, it will be
possible. Your single garage will be big enough to build the empennage
and wings. The fuselage is a long way down the track... who knows where
you will be in 3 years time? If you're short of money, I've seen
builders with plastic tents extending their garages, and so on. If
you've got money to spare, rent hangar space a bit earlier.
Have a look at
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/hs_vs.htm,
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/wingskin.htm and
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/bunnys-guide/rv/bunny/bulkhead.htm
Frank
> A general question if I can please. I am on the verge of starting an
> RV9 build project from the standard kit. My big reservation is that I
> only have a single garage measuring 18.5 feet x 7.5 feet. Given that
> the finished fuselage length is 20.5, is it wishful thinking that I
> can complete the task in such a small place?
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Well deserved congrats! Be safe & HAVE FUN!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of J. R. Dial
Subject: RV-List: N89DD 1st flt.
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Made the first flight in my RV6 N89DD Saturday June 5th at Spicewood
Apt. (88R) west of Austin, TX. All went perfect and I now have my new RV
grin. Thanks for all of the help I have received from the list.
Dick Dial
Do Not Archive
Message 22
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| Subject: | UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Dave,
We extended our forward baggage floor when we removed the drop down section.
I would think this wouldn't be to hard to do after the fact. But you will
have to have a two peice floor. It's nice ot have the extra room. I would
not remove the entire forward baggage floor - there are times (like when the
rear baggage comp is full - that you'll appreciate the space plus need the
CG weight.
Good BUilding,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "rvlist" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: UtilityOfRemovingForwardBaggageFloor
>Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 16:23:46 -0400 3.8 TRACKER_ID
>BODY: Incorporates a tracking ID number
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
>Has anyone found it useful to remove the forward baggage floor and well
>panels after construction? I'm thinking of using them to support adel
>clamps for wiring and control cable runs which will make them harder to
>remove and obstruct the opening somewhat when removed.
>
>Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen@rv7.us>
Congrats! It's great to see another one in the air!
Kathleen
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: N89DD 1st flt.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Well deserved congrats! Be safe & HAVE FUN!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of J. R. Dial
Subject: RV-List: N89DD 1st flt.
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Made the first flight in my RV6 N89DD Saturday June 5th at Spicewood Apt.
(88R) west of Austin, TX. All went perfect and I now have my new RV grin.
Thanks for all of the help I have received from the list.
Dick Dial
Do Not Archive
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Removing Cherry Rivets? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I carefully grind off the retaining ring (or whatever it is) in the middle of the
rivet head, then punch out the pin, then drill and snap off just like a regular
rivet.
Forgive my use of non-standard language, I'm so used to explaining things to my
wife now that I don't know if I even remember the proper terms!
"Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg"
Guys, I am well versed in removing plain rivets. However, removing these Cherry
rivets with the steel inserts are very difficult. Any smart methods out there
on how to get these our with the least damage to the hole? The archive was not
fruitful.
Thanks - Greg
remove cherry rivet
remove pop rivet
remove blind rivet
please archive
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 25
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| Subject: | Prop question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
I just got my prop back from servicing. It is a wood prop and I just had it
refinished and the tips custom painted by a very reputable prop shop.
Mostly just for aesthetics, and they sure did a great job! Anyway, my
question is about reinstalling, just wanted to make sure I didnt miss
anything critical. After replacing the prop and bolts I torqued the bolts
to the manufacturers specs and re-safety wired the bolts as needed. I did
a run-up and tried all RPM ranges from 900 to 2300 (normal static maximum
RPM). There was no unusual vibration or anything else unusual noted. I
have heard that it is a good practice to measure from the prop tip to a
central location and to do it on both tips to make sure the prop is centered
or symmetrical. Is it better to measure this distance from the ground to
the tip with the prop in a vertical position or from the tip of the spinner
to the tips on both sides? Any advice is GREATLY appreciated, just want to
make sure I didnt forget anything (I had a weird feeling I was forgetting
something). Anyone with experience or info to pass on please speak-up, I am
not to proud to take free advice!
Thanks in advance
Travis Hamblen
N457DH RV6A @ VGT 342 hours!
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