Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:35 AM - Re: Fixing Tank Leaks (Trampas)
2. 07:56 AM - Re: Gyro & DG mounting mounting (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
3. 09:17 AM - need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? (Dan Checkoway)
4. 11:24 AM - Re: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? (qcbccgalley)
5. 11:40 AM - Best way to mount Dynon (Jerry Isler)
6. 11:46 AM - Re: Best way to mount Dynon (Jim Daniels)
7. 12:09 PM - Re: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? (Gary Zilik)
8. 02:44 PM - EIS plus what engine instrumentation? (Jack Blomgren)
9. 02:59 PM - Re: Best way to mount Dynon (Jordan Grant)
10. 03:58 PM - Re: Best way to mount Dynon (Dan Checkoway)
11. 04:04 PM - Re: EIS plus what engine instrumentation? (Dave Hyde)
12. 04:09 PM - Re: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? (GMC)
13. 04:09 PM - platenut problem (greg)
14. 04:16 PM - Re: platenut problem (Kyle Boatright)
15. 04:33 PM - Re: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? (Kevin Horton)
16. 05:51 PM - Re: Fixing Tank Leaks (Evan and Megan Johnson)
17. 07:03 PM - Re: platenut problem (Dale Ellis)
18. 07:11 PM - RV 8 weight (Doug Bell)
19. 07:18 PM - Boeing Quick Change Chuck ()
20. 07:59 PM - Re: Boeing Quick Change Chuck (BrownTool@aol.com)
21. 09:32 PM - loctite PST (thomas a. sargent)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fixing Tank Leaks |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
Back when I use to play with motorcycles there was a two part epoxy that you
could purchase to seal fuel tanks. Basically the tanks would rust and get
holes in them. You mix up the two part epoxy and slosh around in tank. Then
let tank sit overnight and it was as good as new. I have actually seen an
old Jeep this was done to, the tank continued to rust and had a hole the
size of your fist, but never leaked due to the epoxy lining.
Here is something similar:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId20&catalogId=10101&langId=-1&storeId=10101
Regards,
Trampas Stern
Stern Technologies
4321 Waterwheel Dr
Raleigh NC 27606
919-832-8441 Ext. 12 (voice)
919-832-8441 (fax)
www.sterntech.com
tstern@sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dwight Frye
Subject: RV-List: Fixing Tank Leaks
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
Ok ... I've finished my right tank, and just today did a leak
test. All of the rivet lines are good, and the back baffle (which
includes the z-brackets) seem to be leak free. However, I have
leaks in three spots, two of which are easy to deal with and the
third I have questions about.
The leaks are around the BNC fuel sender connector, and the two
lower rear corners. On the inboard rib the problem is fairly easy
to deal with ... I take the cover off, reach in, clean a bit, and
proseal like crazy. Easy enough (unless I'm missing something in
which case some pointers would be welcome).
The question I have is concerning the leak at the outboard lower
rear corner. The bubbles come from the rib corner with air getting
out between the lower skin, the rib, and the baffle. I can obviously
slather on proseal from the outside, but wonder if that is the
right/best fix. Given that all the rivet lines (top, bottom, back,
front, everywhere) are good I hate to drill any out. Can I get some
advice? Thanks!
-- Dwight
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Gyro & DG mounting mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Richard,
You didn't say if yours is a tip-up or slider. Mine is a slider. I made
holes big enough to clear the vacuum lines and fittings to the back of the
instruments. I can remove the longer of the two only by removing the fittings
out
of the back, but that is pretty easy. I have seen others cut out a lot more
material than I thought was necessary.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Taxi testing and waiting for FAA registration)
In a message dated 6/12/04 6:28:02 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
rsuffoletto@hotmail.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto@hotmail.com>
>
>
>
> I am mounting a DG Gyro in my 7A panel and they are a bit too long to fit
> properly. I was not able to find anything in the archives on this so can
> someone tell me how they solved the interference problem or direct me to someone's
> web site where there may be pictures posted. I realize I can cut into the
> rear panel but would like to hear what others have done.
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Do I really need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? The reason I ask is
because of something specified in the document:
STANDARDISED VALIDATION OF A SPECIAL AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATE -
EXPERIMENTAL, FOR THE PURPOSE OF OPERATING A UNITED STATES - REGISTERED
AMATEUR-BUILT AIRCRAFT IN CANADIAN AIRSPACE
(jeez, what a long title) That's a document that I'm required to have with
me, and it says:
"3. the nationality and registration marks assigned to the aircraft by the
Federal Aviation Administration shall be displayed on the aircraft in
accordance with the requirements of the United States;"
Well, the requirements of the US...that's 3" numbers. I'm not clear on
whether that means I can get by with 3" numbers or whether I'll need 12"
numbers...anybody know the real deal?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "qcbccgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
12" are need to got thru a ADIZ. The border into Mexico requires them. The
Canadian border does not. Probably need them if you fly into the country
from a Caribbean Island.
I am surprised that the Namby-Pamby ADIZ covering the cowards in DC don't
require the large numbers. On second thought they probably do but I luckily
do not have to fly into DC. I was sure glad it was stupidity last week in DC
or we would all be flying mode S VFR flight plans.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Do I really need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? The reason I ask
is
> because of something specified in the document:
>
> STANDARDISED VALIDATION OF A SPECIAL AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATE -
> EXPERIMENTAL, FOR THE PURPOSE OF OPERATING A UNITED STATES - REGISTERED
> AMATEUR-BUILT AIRCRAFT IN CANADIAN AIRSPACE
>
> (jeez, what a long title) That's a document that I'm required to have with
> me, and it says:
>
> "3. the nationality and registration marks assigned to the aircraft by the
> Federal Aviation Administration shall be displayed on the aircraft in
> accordance with the requirements of the United States;"
>
> Well, the requirements of the US...that's 3" numbers. I'm not clear on
> whether that means I can get by with 3" numbers or whether I'll need 12"
> numbers...anybody know the real deal?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Best way to mount Dynon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
What is the most popular method to mount a Dynon D-10A in an instrument
panel? Since the face of my radios (KY-97A and KT-76A) stick out the front
of my panel I am leaning toward the 3.125" hole in the panel. I do have the
flush mount bracket on order so it is an option to mount it that way also.
Which way looks best? What's your opinion?
Jerry Isler
RV4 # 1070
Donalsonville, GA.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to mount Dynon |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
> Which way looks best? What's your opinion?
Definitely flush mount. Otherwise it looks like an afterthought or a
shortcut. Use the Dynon flush mount or better yet the bracket from
Todd: http://www.rvwoody.com/Rev2Information.html
Jim Daniels
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
I have gone in and out a couple of time with my 3" N numbers. I really
believe the 12 inchers are only required to cross the ADIZ
Gary
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Do I really need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? The reason I ask is
>because of something specified in the document:
>
>STANDARDISED VALIDATION OF A SPECIAL AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATE -
>EXPERIMENTAL, FOR THE PURPOSE OF OPERATING A UNITED STATES - REGISTERED
>AMATEUR-BUILT AIRCRAFT IN CANADIAN AIRSPACE
>
>(jeez, what a long title) That's a document that I'm required to have with
>me, and it says:
>
>"3. the nationality and registration marks assigned to the aircraft by the
>Federal Aviation Administration shall be displayed on the aircraft in
>accordance with the requirements of the United States;"
>
>Well, the requirements of the US...that's 3" numbers. I'm not clear on
>whether that means I can get by with 3" numbers or whether I'll need 12"
>numbers...anybody know the real deal?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | EIS plus what engine instrumentation? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
-8, 8A Drivers,
I'm looking for good engine instrument solutions to accompany a Grand Rapids
EIS for the right third of my -8 panel. If you have an EIS plus instrument
combination you like and would recommend, I welcome your input. Thanks.
Jack Blomgren
-8 80%
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 9
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| Subject: | Best way to mount Dynon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
I did the regular surface mount through the 3 1/2" hole.
Reasons:
1: I can change to another gyro if I want to, or move the Dynon to one of
the other standard holes. (So far, I don't want to...)
2: Clearance behind the panel is tight. (In my RV-6 slider) If you use the
flush mount, its even worse - probably would necessitate (another) big
cutout in the bulkhead behind the panel. And if you screwed up like me and
cut the mounting hole right in front of the left panel support rib, you're
in even bigger trouble.
3: I think it looks just fine that way.
Jordan Grant
RV-6 FWF/painting?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Daniels
Subject: Re: RV-List: Best way to mount Dynon
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
> Which way looks best? What's your opinion?
Definitely flush mount. Otherwise it looks like an afterthought or a
shortcut. Use the Dynon flush mount or better yet the bracket from
Todd: http://www.rvwoody.com/Rev2Information.html
Jim Daniels
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to mount Dynon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Jerry,
While I think the flush installation looks cleanest by far, there are some
advantages to having it "stick out."
1. Simplify the installation. Cut your 3.125" hole if you haven't already,
drill the standard 4-screw pattern, slide it in, install the nuts, done.
2. When you're in turbulence and you're trying to use the menu buttons, it
can be a pain. Since mine sticks out, I rest one or two fingers on the top
"ledge" and it helps me to stabilize my hand if it's gettin' wobbly up
there.
Again, I think flush looks best, but if you're trying to rationalize the
easy way out, there are some advantages.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: Best way to mount Dynon
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
>
> What is the most popular method to mount a Dynon D-10A in an instrument
> panel? Since the face of my radios (KY-97A and KT-76A) stick out the front
> of my panel I am leaning toward the 3.125" hole in the panel. I do have
the
> flush mount bracket on order so it is an option to mount it that way also.
> Which way looks best? What's your opinion?
>
> Jerry Isler
> RV4 # 1070
> Donalsonville, GA.
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | re: EIS plus what engine instrumentation? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Hyde" <nauga@brick.net>
> If you have an EIS plus instrument
> combination you like and would recommend...
I've got a -4, not an -8, but I've got an EIS and love
it. I've got (optional) fuel flow, manifold pressure,
and current (ammeter) sensors in the aux inputs.
Only other sort of engine-related instrumentation I
have are fuel gauges, although these could be incorporated
in the EIS as well.
By the way, 4-channel EGT and CHT have been a huge
help in troubleshooting engine and cooling problems
(which turned out to be mostly non-existant). Grand Rapids
is also great to deal with, and very helpful.
Dave Hyde
nauga@brick.net
RV-4 in flight test, EAA tech counselor
Message 12
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| Subject: | need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "GMC" <gmcnutt@uniserve.com>
Subject: RV-List: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada?
Hi Dan
The short answer is "NO".
The long answer is that the bureaucrats have screwed up our regulations so
badly that nobody really knows exactly what is required for this simple item
anymore.
George in Langley
(6 inch numbering)
-------------------
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Do I really need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? The reason I ask is
because of something specified in the document:
STANDARDISED VALIDATION OF A SPECIAL AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATE -
EXPERIMENTAL, FOR THE PURPOSE OF OPERATING A UNITED STATES - REGISTERED
AMATEUR-BUILT AIRCRAFT IN CANADIAN AIRSPACE
(jeez, what a long title) That's a document that I'm required to have with
me, and it says:
"3. the nationality and registration marks assigned to the aircraft by the
Federal Aviation Administration shall be displayed on the aircraft in
accordance with the requirements of the United States;"
Well, the requirements of the US...that's 3" numbers. I'm not clear on
whether that means I can get by with 3" numbers or whether I'll need 12"
numbers...anybody know the real deal?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
Message 13
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| Subject: | platenut problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "greg" <greg@itmack.com>
I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the platenuts
and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads. Also I'm worried
about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting onto them.
Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the platenuts?
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "greg" <greg@itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: platenut problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "greg" <greg@itmack.com>
>
> I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the
platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads.
Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting
onto them.
>
> Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the
platenuts?
I woudn't tap 'em. First, make sure you're using the right size screws.
Second, rub some wax, soap, or Boe-lube (a great product sold by aviation
supply houses)on the screw threads as a lubricant.
KB
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Do I really need 12" N-numbers for flight into Canada? The reason I ask is
>because of something specified in the document:
>
>STANDARDISED VALIDATION OF A SPECIAL AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATE -
>EXPERIMENTAL, FOR THE PURPOSE OF OPERATING A UNITED STATES - REGISTERED
>AMATEUR-BUILT AIRCRAFT IN CANADIAN AIRSPACE
>
>(jeez, what a long title) That's a document that I'm required to have with
>me, and it says:
>
>"3. the nationality and registration marks assigned to the aircraft by the
>Federal Aviation Administration shall be displayed on the aircraft in
>accordance with the requirements of the United States;"
>
>Well, the requirements of the US...that's 3" numbers. I'm not clear on
>whether that means I can get by with 3" numbers or whether I'll need 12"
>numbers...anybody know the real deal?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
Dan,
The applicable Canadian Aviation Regulation is CAR 202.01 (1)
202.01 (1) Subject to subsection (2), no person shall operate an
aircraft in Canada unless its marks are visible and are displayed
(a) in the case of a Canadian aircraft, in accordance with the
requirements of the Aircraft Marking and Registration Standards; and
(b) in the case of an aircraft registered in a foreign state, in
accordance with the laws of that foreign state.
Thus you only need to meet the US requirements, not the Canadian ones.
<http://www.tc.gc.ca/aviation/REGSERV/CARAC/CARS/cars/202e.htm#202_01>
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Fixing Tank Leaks |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
You can mix up some proseal as you normally would and then thin it with
MEK....I use a 1:1 ratio (proseal/MEK) for this. It does not want to mix
easily so you will have to stir it for a while. Then dump it into that
corner and tip the tank up in the air to run it around the suspect area. Let
it set up for a couple of days minimum then recheck. Keep some of the
sealant mix in your mixing cup so you can poke at it once in a while to see
how its setting up. Dont let anyone talk you into using slosh......Call me
if you need any more advise on this.....I think I have fixed a hundred of
these guys by now. :)
Evan Johnson
(530)351-1776
www.evansaviationproducts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dwight Frye" <dwight@openweave.org>
Subject: RV-List: Fixing Tank Leaks
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
>
> Ok ... I've finished my right tank, and just today did a leak
> test. All of the rivet lines are good, and the back baffle (which
> includes the z-brackets) seem to be leak free. However, I have
> leaks in three spots, two of which are easy to deal with and the
> third I have questions about.
>
> The leaks are around the BNC fuel sender connector, and the two
> lower rear corners. On the inboard rib the problem is fairly easy
> to deal with ... I take the cover off, reach in, clean a bit, and
> proseal like crazy. Easy enough (unless I'm missing something in
> which case some pointers would be welcome).
>
> The question I have is concerning the leak at the outboard lower
> rear corner. The bubbles come from the rib corner with air getting
> out between the lower skin, the rib, and the baffle. I can obviously
> slather on proseal from the outside, but wonder if that is the
> right/best fix. Given that all the rivet lines (top, bottom, back,
> front, everywhere) are good I hate to drill any out. Can I get some
> advice? Thanks!
>
> -- Dwight
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: platenut problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dale Ellis" <rv8builder@worldnet.att.net>
I had a couple of nutplates like yours and I ended up replacing them with
"floating" nutplates. Look under Aircraft Spruce part number F5000-08. The
nut part of this device floats and the threads of the screw are much easier
to engage.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "greg" <greg@itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: platenut problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "greg" <greg@itmack.com>
>
> I'm trying to mount the electric trim and the screws won't go into the
platenuts and I'm really laying into them and starting to bur the heads.
Also I'm worried about stretching the skin with all the force I'm putting
onto them.
>
> Is there any trick I'm missing or do I need to run a tap through the
platenuts?
>
>
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Bell" <DBell@ManisteeNational.com>
Thanks for the comments guys, Bill you did come in light.
Looking forward to seeing some of you soon after flight testing
Doug Bell
Message 19
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| Subject: | Boeing Quick Change Chuck |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
Does anyone out there know anything about "Boeing Quick Change Drill Chucks"?
I bought a real nice used Dotco drill with this chuck, but I am a little confused.
1) Where do you get bits for it (it is not a hex-style quick change)?
2) How can you remove the chuck (it does not have an allen screw in the bottom)?
3) What chucks do the Sioux use and can you buy them separately?
I would appreciate any help anyone can provide. Contact me off list if desired.
Thanks,
Scott
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Boeing Quick Change Chuck |
--> RV-List message posted by: BrownTool@aol.com
In a message dated 6/13/2004 9:19:33 PM Central Standard Time,
tx_jayhawk@excite.com writes:
All,
Does anyone out there know anything about "Boeing Quick Change Drill Chucks"?
I bought a real nice used Dotco drill with this chuck, but I am a little
confused.
1) Where do you get bits for it (it is not a hex-style quick change)?
2) How can you remove the chuck (it does not have an allen screw in the
bottom)?
3) What chucks do the Sioux use and can you buy them separately?
I would appreciate any help anyone can provide. Contact me off list if
desired.
Thanks,
Scott
Scott,
We can special order the Boeing Quick Change Drill Bits for you, but you will
find they are extremely expensive. You will probably be better off and much
happier removing the Boeing Style Quick Change Chuck from your Dotco Drill and
installing a Jacobs standard or keyless chuck. The Boeing Quick Change system
has been around for well over 15 years now, and there is a reason it has not
migrated to the rest of the industry including the home-built market ---- it
is extremely expensive! Boeing and all of the other big manufacturers are
willing to pay the cost of the system beacause it shaves thousands of man hours
from an aircraft assembly. On smaller aircraft, or projects, the Boeing Quick
Change System does not make economic sense. The cost of Boeing Style Quick
Change Drills is 3-4 times the cost of standard drills.
If you will call me, I will be glad to walk you through removing the chuck.
Have a pair of vise grip pliers, a vise, and a mallet ready when you call. The
Boeing Chuck you have on your drill and the normal Jacobs Chucks all feature
3/8-24 internal threads and are interchangeable from drill to drill.
Hope I have helped.
Michael Brown
Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co.
3801 S. Meridian Ave.
Oklahoma City, OK 73119
USA
1-800-587-3883
405-688-6888
Fax 405-688-6555
browntool@aol.com
www.browntool.com
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--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
I have been looking around for Loctite PST at hardware stores and auto
parts stores, but haven't ben able to find it. Can any one suggest a
source?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
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