Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:09 AM - Fitting Positec oil cooler to RV6 (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)
2. 07:26 AM - Re: Elevator horn travel limit (Phil Birkelbach)
3. 08:35 AM - Re: Fitting Positec oil cooler to RV6 (Jim Oke)
4. 09:35 AM - Re: North to Alaska (Hal / Carol Kempthorne)
5. 01:54 PM - Slider Canopy Help (davercook)
6. 02:26 PM - Re: Slider Canopy Help (Ron Walker)
7. 03:07 PM - Re: Slider Canopy Help (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
8. 03:15 PM - Re: Slider Canopy Help (Stein Bruch)
9. 03:35 PM - Re: Traveling Tool Kit (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
10. 04:19 PM - Re: Traveling Tool Kit (cgalley)
11. 05:20 PM - Re: North to Alaska (Ted)
12. 08:41 PM - Re: North to Alaska (RV6 Flyer)
13. 09:07 PM - Re: Traveling Tool Kit (Vanremog@aol.com)
14. 11:17 PM - Re: North to Alaska (GMC)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fitting Positec oil cooler to RV6 |
--> RV-List message posted by:
I'm fitting the larger, hot climate Positec oil cooler to my Rv6/Superior O360.
I've purchased the baffle kit from Vans. The plans for the oil cooler show
a spacer on the aft side of the left side rear baffle flange. The baffle kit
drawings show a reinforcing angle on the forward side of the same aft left baffle.
The parts list states that the reinforcing angle is 3/4"x3/4 angle - but
the supplied material is 3/4" x 1.00". The rear flange on the baffle is 1.00".
If I fit the angle with the one inch side flush with the one inch rear flange,
I have NO edge distance for the screw holding the baffle to the engine case.
If I reverse the angle, the 3/4" flange gives very limited edge distance
for hte nutplates installed on that flange.
Has any one else had this problem? Which way did you orient the angle? Do I really
need both the reinforcement angle and the spacer - I'm not sure what function
the spacer is performing? The Positec cooler is wider than the standard
Harrison/Stewart Warner cooler, which also makes it difficult to fit in this area
- can any one give me any tips?
Thanks
Shirley Harding
RV6 QB
Baffled!
Perth, Western Australia
DO NOT ARCHIVE
---------------------------------
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator horn travel limit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
I was not talking about the flange of the HS I was talking about the flange
on the Horn. The HS spar flange won't help the original poster because his
problem is that the elevator horn is hitting the rear bulkhead before it
hits the elevator stop. I had the same issue but on my airplane it hit the
bulkhead at exactly the right elevator travel so I got lucky. Richard was
not so lucky and will have to trim the elevator horn to get the right
travel.
You will find as you progress through the process that the plans become less
and less useful. Van's did not anticipate every single little problem than
any builder is ever going to have. Sometimes you have to trust your own
judgement, or the judgement of others or simply call Van's.
Godspeed,
Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen@rv7.us>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Elevator horn travel limit
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen@rv7.us>
>
> OK Phil, I must be confused about what you guys are discussing. According
> to the builders' manual, "It will probably be necessary to remove the
bottom
> flange of the HS-603PP to allow the elevator horns enough swing." On my
> DWG-3 (of the HS) it says, pointing to the lower flange, "Trim HS rear
spar
> to allow elevator horns to pivot forward and contact the elevator 'down'
> control stop."
>
> Nowhere does it say anything about trimming the horns. Are you talking
> about something else or making the case that the plans are wrong?
>
> Kathleen,
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Birkelbach
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator horn travel limit
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
>
> My elevator horn hits the bulkhead right at the required up travel, so I
got
> lucky. I called Van's to make sure that it was okay that the horn hit the
> bulkhead before it hit the stop and they were not worried about it but
they
> did want to make sure that I had the required up travel.
>
> I suspect that you could trim a little on the horns, just make sure that
you
> don't cut into the 'flanges' and be sure that the edge distances are
okay.
> I would also call Van's and double check.
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
>
> Richard Suffoletto wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Suffoletto"
> >--> <rsuffoletto@hotmail.com>
> >
> >
> >I am not able to get the necessary up travel on the elevators because the
> most rear horn hits the rear bulk head just as it reaches the stop. ( 4
> degrees short) Consequently taking anymore off the stop is not going to
> help. Is it OK to trim away some of the lower horn to get a few more
degrees
> of travel? Anybody else run into this?
> >
> >
> >Richard
> >
> >
> >RV-7A QB
> >
> >
> > Getting married? Find great tips, tools and the latest trends at MSN
Life
> Events.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fitting Positec oil cooler to RV6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Hi Shirley;
I have a similar set-up with an O-320 and the small Positech and the Van's
baffle kit on a RV-6A. (The small Positech does just fine for me here in the
local climate - which is usually cool if not downright cold.)
I used the spacer at the aft LH corner of the baffle set on the argument
that this would add a bit of extra "beef" at the join and also for the
outboard row of bolts holding cooler itself as they pass through this area.
I placed the angle doubler with the 1.00" flange running fore and aft
although this required trimming the flange to clear the #4 cylinder valve
cover. I assume the "screw into the case" you mention is the one which
threads into the aft side of the #4 cylinder adjacent to the valve cover. I
used the supplied rectangular doubler here as well so this screw passes
through three thicknesses of material (rect. doubler, the 1.00" flange of
the angle, and the basic side baffle).
There is not a lot of room here for the cooler especially with a -320 which
is 1/2" or so narrower than a -360. My cooler thus had a problem moving in
far enough to get decent airflow through the back baffle without rubbing on
one of the engine mount tubes. Thus I ended up grinding a half circle out of
the inner aft mounting flange on the cooler to clear the tube. This allowed
the oil cooler to move inwards about 3/4" which made a big difference in how
it all worked out. (This flange on the cooler doesn't do anything so no loss
here).
A picture will probably be worth more than any additional words so have a
look at:
http://www.vansairforce.org/projects/okej/onephoto.cgi?Picture_0015.jpg
or go to http://www.vansairforce.org/projects/okej/ and scroll about halfway
down - click to enlarge the picture.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, Canada
RV-3, RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: <owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fitting Positec oil cooler to RV6
> --> RV-List message posted by:
>
> I'm fitting the larger, hot climate Positec oil cooler to my Rv6/Superior
O360. I've purchased the baffle kit from Vans. The plans for the oil
cooler show a spacer on the aft side of the left side rear baffle flange.
The baffle kit drawings show a reinforcing angle on the forward side of the
same aft left baffle. The parts list states that the reinforcing angle is
3/4"x3/4 angle - but the supplied material is 3/4" x 1.00". The rear flange
on the baffle is 1.00". If I fit the angle with the one inch side flush
with the one inch rear flange, I have NO edge distance for the screw holding
the baffle to the engine case. If I reverse the angle, the 3/4" flange
gives very limited edge distance for hte nutplates installed on that flange.
>
> Has any one else had this problem? Which way did you orient the angle?
Do I really need both the reinforcement angle and the spacer - I'm not sure
what function the spacer is performing? The Positec cooler is wider than the
standard Harrison/Stewart Warner cooler, which also makes it difficult to
fit in this area - can any one give me any tips?
>
> Thanks
>
> Shirley Harding
> RV6 QB
> Baffled!
> Perth, Western Australia
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: North to Alaska |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 07:47 PM 6/19/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
>All,
>
>I am off to Alaska for the Elmendorf AFB airshow next weekend
Hi Doug, Are you sure you are not having too much fun for an Iowan?
I have heard of flying the trench but I can't figure out from the charts
where that is. Have you heard of it?
How will the B25 get there?
hal
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Slider Canopy Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
Hi all
Canopy frustration time. Question, after drilling canopy to frame, it causes the
frame to exert pressure on the tracks so that the canopy nolonger rolls , but
scrapes the track and digs into the aluminum. I widened the tracks about 1/8"
on both sides but no joy.I trimmed the rollers , no joy.I bent the bracket holding
the roller, no joy. What's a body to do,start over? I tried bending the
front bow for conformity to the roll bar and broke it and had to have it welded
so I know I don't want to go that route again. Sometimes the head of the screw
digs in, and sometime the shoulder of the bracket digs in.
I should have built the tip-up!
Dave Cook Finish Kit/Canopy
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
While I don't have any *direct* experience, I do understand your
frustrations ... there were a few times in my tip-up construction that I was
saying "Wish I built the slider!" ... Take a deep breath .. maybe move on to
something else for a couple days ... you'll find your answer ;o)
Good Luck and keep steady!
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
Subject: RV-List: Slider Canopy Help
> --> RV-List message posted by: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
>
> Hi all
>
> Canopy frustration time. Question, after drilling canopy to frame, it
causes the frame to exert pressure on the tracks so that the canopy nolonger
rolls , but scrapes the track and digs into the aluminum. I widened the
tracks about 1/8" on both sides but no joy.I trimmed the rollers , no joy.I
bent the bracket holding the roller, no joy. What's a body to do,start over?
I tried bending the front bow for conformity to the roll bar and broke it
and had to have it welded so I know I don't want to go that route again.
Sometimes the head of the screw digs in, and sometime the shoulder of the
bracket digs in.
>
> I should have built the tip-up!
>
> Dave Cook Finish Kit/Canopy
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Hi Dave,
Yes, start over! You need to take it apart and bend the frame narrower until
it springs to the right width. Leave the tracks alone once you have them
parallel, and adjust on the frame. Some builders cut the frame and cut or bend
the pieces individually, then weld it back together. I didn't have to do that,
but I may have gotten a better fit if I had. There is an issue of the RVator
about a year ago which was devoted to the slider. Someone else may remember
exactly which one it was. It would probably help you to review it.
Hang in there. It took me maybe two weeks just to get the frame and canopy
fit. The better job you do here, the better and easier it is to get the skirts
to fit and look good.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Taxiing and waiting for FAA paperwork.)
In a message dated 6/20/04 3:55:46 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
davercook@prodigy.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
>
> Hi all
>
> Canopy frustration time. Question, after drilling canopy to frame, it causes
> the frame to exert pressure on the tracks so that the canopy nolonger rolls
> , but scrapes the track and digs into the aluminum. I widened the tracks
> about 1/8" on both sides but no joy.I trimmed the rollers , no joy.I bent the
> bracket holding the roller, no joy. What's a body to do,start over? I tried
> bending the front bow for conformity to the roll bar and broke it and had to
have
> it welded so I know I don't want to go that route again. Sometimes the head
> of the screw digs in, and sometime the shoulder of the bracket digs in.
>
> I should have built the tip-up!
>
> Dave Cook Finish Kit/Canopy
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Slider Canopy Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Dave,
Your problem is not uncommon to us slider types. I now have 2 flying slider
RV6's, and after much cussing, et.al, I now have two canopies that slide
themselves open past the first 8 inches.
The 1st thing is to absolutely get the front bow to shape. That may mean
some bending, maybe the use of a torch or something. I just put one of
those ratcheting straps across the bottom of the bow and cranked until it
was right. Next, make sure the rails are at the appropriate spot outboard.
Moving them too far outboard will cause problems with the side skirts later,
so be careful about moving them too far outboard. Make sure the canopy
frame slides nicely before you put the plexi on, if it doesn't, it only gets
worse when you put the plexi on. In fact, I would try to bend the frame
slightly inboard a bit too much, as the weight of the plexi and it's effort
try to push the frame open somewhat, exaserbating any rubbing tendencies you
may have had before installing the plexi.
Also, gently chamfer the outboard side of the plastic rollers to the shape
of the rail and make sure you have the right amount of spacers between the
mouting ear and the roller, that will keep the screw head from rubbing the
rail. You may have to fiddle with that as well.
Last but not least, to make for a really nice, smooth opening, I have put a
strip of teflon tape in the inside of the rail. That way if the roller
rubs, it still slides nicely. Both mine were extreme pains in the rear, but
with some time they now work great. Both of my canopies slide by themselves
and the skirts fit like gloves!
Hope this helps,
Stein.
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of davercook
Subject: RV-List: Slider Canopy Help
--> RV-List message posted by: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
Hi all
Canopy frustration time. Question, after drilling canopy to frame, it causes
the frame to exert pressure on the tracks so that the canopy nolonger rolls
about 1/8" on both sides but no joy.I trimmed the rollers , no joy.I bent
the bracket holding the roller, no joy. What's a body to do,start over? I
tried bending the front bow for conformity to the roll bar and broke it and
had to have it welded so I know I don't want to go that route again.
Sometimes the head of the screw digs in, and sometime the shoulder of the
bracket digs in.
I should have built the tip-up!
Dave Cook Finish Kit/Canopy
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Or, could it be people are not using the right fluid? I don't really want to
start anything here, but I know from just my limited exposure at the local
airport of 3 different "best" brake fluids.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Waiting for FAA registration. Register your plane now. Don't wait
'till its done!)
In a message dated 6/16/04 11:21:18 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
Bluecavu@aol.com writes:
>
> Frankly I'm amazed at this... after decades now of fooling around with
> little
> airplanes -both as a full-time GA A&P for many years, and as a
> homebuilder/restorer. I've never heard of a brake O-ring failure at the
> caliper (other than
> a little sticky ooze of a leak) -EXCEPT where the poor souls have had the
> pistons installed backwards... -and as the pads wore, the (wrong) end of the
> piston w/ the O-rings moved out of the bore. Must be some really poor
> O-rings out
> there these days... or else you guys are puttin the pistons in wrong (the
> end
> w/ the O-ring goes in the hole first!)
>
> Scott
> N4ZW (and NC76740/N2597V)
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Cleveland had a manufacturing problem where the pistons were installed
backwards AT the FACTORY.
I spent a lot of time with them developing a way to check without
disassembly. The article is in one of the past Experimenters in my safety
column. Basically, it involves loosening the bolts holding out pad so one
can pump the piston out. If you see the o-ring within about a 1/10 of an
inch, it is in back wards. No fluid is lost, and no disassembly is
necessary unless you find that the piston has been installed incorrectly.
There have been several reports of the backward piston coming out far enough
to leak all the brake fluid. This happens when the pads wear enough in about
300 hours and it dumps the brake fluid. O-rings can't do the job when one
assumes that the factory installed the piston correctly.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Traveling Tool Kit
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
> Or, could it be people are not using the right fluid? I don't really want
to
> start anything here, but I know from just my limited exposure at the local
> airport of 3 different "best" brake fluids.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (Waiting for FAA registration. Register your plane now. Don't wait
> 'till its done!)
>
> In a message dated 6/16/04 11:21:18 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> Bluecavu@aol.com writes:
>
> >
> > Frankly I'm amazed at this... after decades now of fooling around with
> > little
> > airplanes -both as a full-time GA A&P for many years, and as a
> > homebuilder/restorer. I've never heard of a brake O-ring failure at the
> > caliper (other than
> > a little sticky ooze of a leak) -EXCEPT where the poor souls have had
the
> > pistons installed backwards... -and as the pads wore, the (wrong) end of
the
> > piston w/ the O-rings moved out of the bore. Must be some really poor
> > O-rings out
> > there these days... or else you guys are puttin the pistons in wrong
(the
> > end
> > w/ the O-ring goes in the hole first!)
> >
> > Scott
> > N4ZW (and NC76740/N2597V)
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ted" <ted_french@telus.net>
"Flying the trench" is the north end of the trip in a direct route from
Prince george BC to Watson Lake. It starts roughly at Williston lake and
runs for about 250 miles north. The lake is also part of it. In my RV-6A I
did the PG to Watson Lake trip in 3 hours even. From PG to Fort Ware which
is 50 miles north of the north end of Williston lake there are emergency
landing strips. From Ft Ware to Watson Lake is 1.5 hrs of trees.
Ted French
RV-6A C-FXCS 180 hours
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hal / Carol
Kempthorne
Subject: Re: RV-List: North to Alaska
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne
<kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 07:47 PM 6/19/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
>All,
>
>I am off to Alaska for the Elmendorf AFB airshow next weekend
Hi Doug, Are you sure you are not having too much fun for an Iowan?
I have heard of flying the trench but I can't figure out from the charts
where that is. Have you heard of it?
How will the B25 get there?
hal
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Didn't we meet in Canada for the first time on a trip just like this one
about 3 years ago?
Just got back from the Bahamas last month. Am saving my vacation for
AirVenture. Too many good flying activities and places to fly. Not enough
saved yet to quit my job.
We will see you again in Mason City for the Formation Clinic before Oshkosh.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,521 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Subject: RV-List: North to Alaska
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
All,
I am off to Alaska for the Elmendorf AFB airshow next weekend, I am flying
up on a crowd-killer (aka airliner) Monday, we will do a crew change at
Anchorage and I will be at Elmendorf next weekend with our B-25 "Miss
Mitchell" and then home across Canada early the Mon-Tues following. Any
Alaska RVers that are at the show please stop by the B-25, ask for me, and
say hello. I will give you the VIP tour. No extra charge for putting spit
on the inside of the windshield. As I said last year, everyone should take
a trip to Alaska in a little airplane, it is an easy trip and the most
beautiful flying you will ever do!!!
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Watch the online reality show Mixed Messages with a friend and enter to win
a trip to NY
http://www.msnmessenger-download.click-url.com/go/onm00200497ave/direct/01/
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Traveling Tool Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 6/20/2004 3:36:02 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
Or, could it be people are not using the right fluid? I don't really want
to
start anything here, but I know from just my limited exposure at the local
airport of 3 different "best" brake fluids.
===================================
MIL-H-5606 (petroleum, flash point ~104 deg C) with nitrile seals (~135 deg
C rated) is what is recommended.
DOT 5 (silicone, high flash point) with Viton seals (~232 deg C rated) is
what some local Long-EZ drivers swear by because they land fast, with a long
roll out and are heavy on the brakes.
MIL-H-83282 (synthetic, flash point ~240 deg C) replaced MIL-H-5606 for all
but civilian aircraft use in the '50s after they got fed up having too many
military aircraft brake fires. It is usable with Viton seals.
You all are grownups and can decide for yourselves whether the first case is
the preferred situation.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 701 hrs; last trip, Sedona)
If you do what you've always done, you will get what you've always gotten.
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "GMC" <gmcnutt@uniserve.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne
<kempthornes@earthlink.net>
I have heard of flying the trench but I can't figure out from the charts
where that is. Have you heard of it?
hal
-----------------------------------------
Hi Hal
I have never flown the trench, just looked down from the flight levels.
The Trench is a fairly straight valley running from Mackenzie (near 55N
123W) to Watson Lake on the Alaska Highway, approximately 360 N.M. The floor
of the trench is 2-3000' msl with 7-8000' mountains along each side.
It is a frequently used flight way but with very limited facilities and
emergency strips.
George in Langley
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