Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:37 AM - Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. (Bob 1)
2. 04:33 AM - Re: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... (LarryRobertHelming)
3. 04:38 AM - Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. (LarryRobertHelming)
4. 04:41 AM - Re: high egt's (cgalley)
5. 04:55 AM - Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. (SportAV8R@aol.com)
6. 05:48 AM - Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. (linn walters)
7. 05:52 AM - Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. (Bob 1)
8. 06:15 AM - Re: SD-20 Alternator installation question (Pat Hatch)
9. 06:17 AM - Re: high egt's (Scott Bilinski)
10. 06:17 AM - Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. (RV_8 Pilot)
11. 06:23 AM - Re: Slider Canopy Help (Denis Walsh)
12. 07:00 AM - Cool Collar installation (Frazier, Vincent A)
13. 07:15 AM - Re: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... (Bill VonDane)
14. 07:20 AM - Canopy Frame Tweak ()
15. 09:36 AM - Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors for RV-8 (dag adamson)
16. 10:05 AM - Re: First in Space (Skylor Piper)
17. 10:40 AM - Re: Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors for RV-8 (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
18. 10:44 AM - QB Aft top skin F-7112 (slider canopy0 (Richard Suffoletto)
19. 10:57 AM - Re: QB Aft top skin F-7112 (slider canopy0 (Ralph E. Capen)
20. 11:29 AM - Re: Pro Sys AOA - RV-8 Location (Jack Blomgren)
21. 11:32 AM - Re: high egt's (Skylor Piper)
22. 01:17 PM - Re: Slider Canopy Help (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
23. 01:57 PM - Re: high egt's (cgalley)
24. 02:07 PM - Re: SD-20 Alternator installation question (Pat Hatch)
25. 02:18 PM - Re: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... (LarryRobertHelming)
26. 02:38 PM - Re: First in Space (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG))
27. 02:43 PM - Re: First in Space (Skylor Piper)
28. 03:03 PM - Re: high egt's (Skylor Piper)
29. 04:42 PM - Re: Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors for RV-8 (Charles Rowbotham)
30. 05:03 PM - Re: Garmin/Navaid interface (Jim Anglin)
31. 09:21 PM - Catto Prop VS (Bruno)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" <rv3a@comcast.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
> Not to open a can of worms, but where do you want your oil temps to be? I
usually fiddle with the air door on the cooler if I can't get temps up to at
least 180, and I like to see 200-210 in cruise since I know then the water
is boiling off at altitude. Should I be trying to stay below 200??
>
> -BB
> do not archive
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
FWIW...
Water boils at LESS than 212 degrees at altitude.
For example - at 82,500 feet on a standard day...
H20 [water] boils at approximately 70 degrees. <g>
SOB - Sweet Old Bob
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
The picture enlarging works on my computer. I just wonder how much the
filter housing and replaceable filters will cost. Have you set prices yet?
Do you need more testers?
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New MicroFilter Oil Filter...
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker"
<retasker@optonline.net>
>
> Hey, Bill. The "enlarged" pictures on your web site are the same size
> as the un-enlarged pictures (at least on my computer) - both small.
>
> Dick Tasker
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob 1" <rv3a@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cool Collar oil filter cooler.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" <rv3a@comcast.net>
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
> >
> > Not to open a can of worms, but where do you want your oil temps to be?
I
> usually fiddle with the air door on the cooler if I can't get temps up to
at
> least 180, and I like to see 200-210 in cruise since I know then the water
> is boiling off at altitude. Should I be trying to stay below 200??
> >
> > -BB
> > do not archive
>
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
> FWIW...
>
> Water boils at LESS than 212 degrees at altitude.
>
> For example - at 82,500 feet on a standard day...
> H20 [water] boils at approximately 70 degrees. <g>
>
> SOB - Sweet Old Bob
((((((((())))))))))))
Interesting. What is the formula so anyone could determine the boil temp
for other altitudes, like say 12,000 or 8,000 feet. I don't plan to take my
7 up to 82,500 for a while anyway. ;-)
While you are doing that, I assume that the freezing temp for water changes
also at altitude. How about that formula too if you don't mind.
Thanks, Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
EGT readings are relative and always go down as your plane goes up. Why?
because EGT is a measure of the heat or power that the engine is producing.
Unless your engine is turboed, more altitude always means less air. Less
air, less power, less heat! So your take-off temps should be higher than the
max possible high altitude EGT readings.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Skylor Piper" <skylor4@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: high egt's
> --> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
>
> 1450 to 1500 might be a bit high, but what's really
> more important is your CHT's. If your CHT's run below
> 380 at full power/climb power, then you're fine. If
> you're CHT's are warmer, you need to have your full
> power mixture richened. Once you've established good
> takeoff/climb CHT's, then you can note your EGT's and
> use those as future reference for ideal takeoff
> mixture, & those EGT's will be good target values for
> high altitude takeoff leaning.
>
> --- Dave Ford <dford@michweb.net> wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford"
> > <dford@michweb.net>
> >
> > Just wondering about egt's and what is considered a
> > normal range during takeoff--I am showing in the
> > yellow at about 1450 to 1500 F. I know it is
> > relative to where the probes are on the exhaust but
> > is the range of temp really a cause for concern or
> > is it more to look at a departing individual egt
> > from the group?
> >
> > Dave Ford
> > RV6 85 hours
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions
> > any other
> > Forums.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/chat
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
FWIW...
Water boils at LESS than 212 degrees at altitude.
For example - at 82,500 feet on a standard day...
H20 [water] boils at approximately 70 degrees. <g>
SOB - Sweet Old Bob
Yeah, I know. That's why my post never mentioned a temp above 210 ;-) I also
know the oil temps are slightl;y higher in the bowels of the crankcase than at
the oil temp sensor in the hi-pressure screen housing. But much of the flying
I do is around the patch at 2000 MSL or less, so my question still stands: what
temps are we shooting for to get the job done and be nice to the oil?
-BB do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>((((((((())))))))))))
>Interesting. What is the formula so anyone could determine the boil temp
>for other altitudes, like say 12,000 or 8,000 feet. I don't plan to take my
>7 up to 82,500 for a while anyway. ;-)
>
PV=nRT
>While you are doing that, I assume that the freezing temp for water changes
>also at altitude. How about that formula too if you don't mind.
>
Water freezes at 32 deg F or 0 deg C. No change at altitude.
Linn
>
>Thanks, Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" <rv3a@comcast.net>
>
> FWIW...
>
> Water boils at LESS than 212 degrees at altitude.
>
> For example - at 82,500 feet on a standard day...
> H20 [water] boils at approximately 70 degrees. <g>
>
> SOB - Sweet Old Bob
>
> Yeah, I know. That's why my post never mentioned a temp above 210 ;-) I
also know the oil temps are slightl;y higher in the bowels of the crankcase
than at the oil temp sensor in the hi-pressure screen housing. But much of
the flying I do is around the patch at 2000 MSL or less, so my question
still stands: what temps are we shooting for to get the job done and be nice
to the oil?
>
> -BB do not archive
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The 0-320 Textron Lycoming Operator's Manual sez....
Average
Ambient Air
------------
Above 80 degrees F.
Desired ... 180 degrees F.
Max ....... 245 degrees F.
0 degrees to 70 degrees F.
Desired ... 170 degrees F.
Max ....... 225 degrees F.
SOB - Sweet Old BOb
Do not archive
Message 8
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|
| Subject: | Re: SD-20 Alternator installation question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Ralph,
I was able to torque three of the nuts with the torque wrench, then I
guessed at the one with the Cleaveland wrench based on the other three. I
did use torque seal on the nut to mark it. I have the -7 uncowled today so
I will check the clearance and get back to you.
Pat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
> Thanks Pat! - mine is currently off the mount as you have described - I
just
> wanted to know if the tool would fit before I bought it.
>
> How did you measure the torque?...or did you just muscle it, paint a dot
on
> it, and check it regularly?
>
> Looking forward to hearing about that after-mounting access...!
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
> >
> > Ralph,
> >
> > I have the SD-20 on the RV-7 and used the Cleaveland vacuum pump tool.
> > Worked very well. However, I think it is much easier to mount the SD-20
> > when the engine is off the mount. Not sure how much access their is for
> the
> > wrench with the engine on the aircraft/mount. I'll check it out and let
> you
> > know.
> >
> > Pat Hatch
> > RV-4
> > RV-6
> > RV-7 All Flying
> > Vero Beach, FL
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
<recapen@earthlink.net>
> > >
> > > Fellow listers,
> > >
> > > Have any of you successfully used either the Aircraft Spruce or
> Cleaveland
> > vacuum pump installation tool (wrench) on a B&C SD-20 alternator?
> > >
> > > There is one bolt at 7 o'clock that can't be gotten to 'normally'.
One
> > lister made a tool with a 1/4" drive socket and some 1/4" square stock
> bent
> > to fit so I know it can be done.....
> > >
> > > I've sent mail to both Spruce and Cleaveland without any answers - so
> > far....
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Ralph Capen
> > > RV6A N822AR - finally registered!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
With my set up the highest I see is just over 1400. On a normal day with a
full rich climb out I will see about 1250. I have the VM1000.
At 09:51 PM 6/21/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
>
>Just wondering about egt's and what is considered a normal range during
>takeoff--I am showing in the yellow at about 1450 to 1500 F. I know it is
>relative to where the probes are on the exhaust but is the range of temp
>really a cause for concern or is it more to look at a departing individual
>egt from the group?
>
>Dave Ford
>RV6 85 hours
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
I believe the water in the oil issue is more complex than the boiling point
of water at a given elevation. It's a dynamics of soluability issue
(Henry's Law?). I don't have the specifics on hand for water in oil, but I
bet SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) or (Aero)Shell does.
When you dissolve one liquid in another, the resulting mixture takes on
different physical properties. As far as getting the water out, there'll
always be some water dissolved in the oil. How much is too much (10, 100,
1000 ppm)? Again, try asking someone like SAE or Shell. I'd think for
lubricity, up to saturation (free water) would be OK. Now corrosion may be
a different story.
Bottom line - I don't believe boiling point of water matters for dissolved
water in oil.
As for the temp issue, I'd go to the two groups above for technical backup -
SAE and Shell. Couple of clicks on the Internet and I got a Shell contacts
form.
http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=aviation-en&FC2=/aviation-en/html/iwgen/leftnavs/zzz_lhn10_0_0.html&FC3=/aviation-en/html/iwgen/contact.html
Bryan Jones -8
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
>FWIW...
>
>Water boils at LESS than 212 degrees at altitude.
>
>For example - at 82,500 feet on a standard day...
>H20 [water] boils at approximately 70 degrees. <g>
>
>SOB - Sweet Old Bob
>
>Yeah, I know. That's why my post never mentioned a temp above 210 ;-) I
>also know the oil temps are slightl;y higher in the bowels of the crankcase
>than at the oil temp sensor in the hi-pressure screen housing. But much of
>the flying I do is around the patch at 2000 MSL or less, so my question
>still stands: what temps are we shooting for to get the job done and be
>nice to the oil?
>
>-BB do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
My slider slides. I am happy.
Personally I have even screwed up paint by leaving it in the can too
long.
On the other hand I have never had any av gas go stale on me.
DLW
On Jun 21, 2004, at 10:29 PM, Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club
wrote:
> . About the only thing I havent managed to screwed up on it is the
> paint--- It is still in the cans. Phil in Illinois
> sometimes, I wish I would have left its engine on the Pitt's......
>
> Do not archive...
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Cool Collar installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
Cool Collar installation
Squirt some silicone heat sink compound on it before installation so
you'll get good heat transfer. You can get the silicone stuff at any
electronics store.
Vince
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... |
rv-8@yahoogroups.com, RV10@yahoogroups.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Larry...
The filters have a cleanable and reusable filter element, so you don't have
to replace it... The filters are designed to last a lifetime, and will
easily last the life of your 2000 hour engine! The quad-ring gasket and the
spirol lock are also designed to last for the life of your engine, but if
you should damage them in any way, replacements will be available for just a
few bucks each...
Pricing is yet to be determined, but consider this; on a 2000 hour engine,
and changing the oil and filter every 50 hours, and Champion oil filters at
$17 a pop, you talking $680 in filters over the life of your engine... Even
if you go 100 hours on the filter you're talking $340!
That said... I am hoping to keep the cost to about $150... I will let you
all know when I have all the details worked out...
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New MicroFilter Oil Filter...
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
The picture enlarging works on my computer. I just wonder how much the
filter housing and replaceable filters will cost. Have you set prices yet?
Do you need more testers?
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Message 14
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| Subject: | Canopy Frame Tweak |
--> RV-List message posted by: <EricHe@FlexSolPackaging.com>
Guys (and all) all canopys are a royal pain in the A$$. I bent my frame for 2 long
days before I cut it apart and peged it and had it welded. Now that you have
drilled the glass on you have a serious delima that you need to be aware of.
This is a closed loop. The stress that you put on the canopy on the front bow
will manifest itself in the rear bow if you are not extremely carefull to isolate
what you do. DO NOT bend the bow on your knee after you have it drilled.
I helped a rocket builder one day. His started out just like you describe. The
glass put an outward bias on the rollers. So he grabbed his frame and just bent
it in. We bent that frame for 8 hours chasing out the new stresses. Don't
do this. Make a wood form out of ply wood that will isolate what you need to do.
Make sure the form holds the frame secure and bends only what you intend. What
you need is an inward bias and you can simply put spacers between the glass
and the bars if you need to maintain the shape you currently have, after you
do the bending.
Also keep in mind, it will loosen up as the rollers wear, help them out by sanding
them down on the edges just a little, make a nice smooth radius with 600 grit
sand paper.
Hope this helps
Eric
> --> RV-List message posted by: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
>
> Hi all
>
> Canopy frustration time. Question, after drilling canopy to frame, it causes
the frame to exert pressure on the tracks so that the canopy nolonger rolls ,
but scrapes the track and digs into the aluminum. I widened the tracks about 1/8"
on both sides but no joy.I trimmed the rollers , no joy.I bent the bracket
holding the roller, no joy. What's a body to do,start over? I tried bending the
front bow for conformity to the roll bar and broke it and had to have it welded
so I know I don't want to go that route again. Sometimes the head of the
screw digs in, and sometime the shoulder of the bracket digs in.
>
> I should have built the tip-up!
> Dave Cook Finish Kit/Canopy
Hey Dave.......
I should have built a tip over. I am doing my canopy and I am having same frustrations.
The canopy bow is an abortion as it comes from the factory. !/2 inch
off from the windshild bow in some areas. I straightened, rebent, straightend
and rebent and I am almost there now. Then I talk with others who say theirs mated
right up. Oh well I made my mind up a couple of years ago that it wasnt
going to get any trophy's. About the only thing I havent managed to screwed up
on it is the paint--- It is still in the cans. Phil in Illinois
sometimes, I wish I would have left its engine on the Pitt's......
Message 15
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| Subject: | Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors for |
RV-8
--> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson <dag_adamson@yahoo.com>
Hello-
Looking for suggestions on placement of AOA sensors
for an RV-8 wing.
I know the instuctions say 10 to 40% of the cord
With the tips off - I was planning on installing the
top and lower sensors in the first bay. Thoughts?
How man inches from the leading edge? or inches from
the forward cutout hole of the rib?
Thanks
Dag
PS please post and email.
=====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Cambridge, MA
Denver, CO
*****************
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: First in Space |
--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
This is tongue in cheek, right? I believe the EFIS
systems in both White Knight and Spaceship One were
developed jointly between scaled composites and
Fundamental Technology Systems.
Basic info is here:
http://www.scaled.com/projects/tierone/data_sheets/html/flight_nav.htm
And a picture of it in flight is here:
http://www.scaled.com/projects/tierone/photos/images/video/14p_apogee.jpg
--- Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North
> <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Well,
>
> since I use the daily digest I haven't yet heard
> today's chatter, but I
> couldn't resist waiting to post this one.
>
> A buddy of mine took the day off from building his
> RV7 and popped up to
> Mojave to watch and listen in.
>
> Apparently during the descent sometime Mike Neville
> decided to disengage the
> autopilot and commented on how it was flying without
> it, then he commented
> on how neat the Dynon D-10 was.
>
> So, that said, listen up you lurkers from Dynon, I
> want the first promo
> sticker that reads, "Dynon Avionics - First in
> Space"
>
> Now if Van had been on top of this he could have
> also paid Mike to blurt out
> "What the heck just went over my head??? Dang me
> Lord, that's an RV passing
> on by!"
>
> Congrats D, that's a real cool deal to be the first
> EFIS in space.
>
>
> Driving a Dynon in a rocket ship brings to mind a
> question about an
> aerobatic screen option. When one is pointed
> straight up is it possible for
> the D10 to display a red dot on the straight up
> point and a black dot on the
> straight down point? This might appeal to some of
> the aerobatic folks.
> Another option that might appeal to that market
> would be an aerobatic
> setting option that reduces some of the pitch
> dampening that occurs during a
> loop, or rapid changes in velocity.
>
> In fact an aerobatic software version well thought
> out might have some great
> appeal to that market.
>
> Dynon D-10A(Normal)
> Dynon D-10X(Aerobatic)
> Dynon D-10S(Space-local)
> Dynon D-10SI(Space-Intersteller)
>
> :{)
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 17
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| Subject: | Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors |
for RV-8
--> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Actually they have detailed info on the web site - I've attached the
link. I just purchased one of these for my RV-10.
http://www.angle-of-attack.com/FAQ.htm Scroll down and there's a table
with locations for a variety of aircraft including all of the RVs.
Bob RV-10 #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dag adamson
To:
rv-list@matronics.com.pts.rule.name.description.----.-------------------
---.-------------------------------------------
Subject: RV-List: Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for
sensors for RV-8
--> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson <dag_adamson@yahoo.com>
Hello-
Looking for suggestions on placement of AOA sensors
for an RV-8 wing.
I know the instuctions say 10 to 40% of the cord
With the tips off - I was planning on installing the
top and lower sensors in the first bay. Thoughts?
How man inches from the leading edge? or inches from
the forward cutout hole of the rib?
Thanks
Dag
PS please post and email.
=====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Cambridge, MA
Denver, CO
*****************
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 18
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| Subject: | QB Aft top skin F-7112 (slider canopy0 |
pts rule name description
---- ---------------------- -------------------------------------------
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto@hotmail.com>
It's not clear to me when you are suppose to rivet on the aft top skin F-7112.
The instructtions end with telling you to cleco on the skin and match up the F-6111
l R brace. I have read through the manual up to and including the canopy
installation and have found no mention of riveting on the Aft top skin. Seems
it should be done before the canopy on a slider.
Can any of you who have been through this give me some guidance?
Thanks
Richard.... drilling out too many rivets...
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: QB Aft top skin F-7112 (slider canopy0 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
I did mine right before fitting the slider mechanism...I could have put the clecoes
in from below - but I wanted it to have no chances of changing. No regrets
so far and I'll be working the plastic this summer.
Ralph Capen
6AQB N822AR
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Suffoletto <rsuffoletto@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: QB Aft top skin F-7112 (slider canopy0
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Suffoletto" <rsuffoletto@hotmail.com>
It's not clear to me when you are suppose to rivet on the aft top skin F-7112.
The instructtions end with telling you to cleco on the skin and match up the F-6111
l R brace. I have read through the manual up to and including the canopy
installation and have found no mention of riveting on the Aft top skin. Seems
it should be done before the canopy on a slider.
Can any of you who have been through this give me some guidance?
Thanks
Richard.... drilling out too many rivets...
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Pro Sys AOA - RV-8 Location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
Dag.
Placement guide for the -8 wing are in the AOA Operating and Installation
Manual, and are as follows:
Wing Span Location--"Middle of the outboard wing bay. Upper port 4 3/4" and
lower port 7 1/2" inboard of the wing skin outer end."
Wing Chord Location-- " 6" forward of the wing skin break [or] about 12" aft
of the leading edge."
Jack, -8 80% Red Wing, MN
From: dag adamson dag_adamson@yahoo.com
Subject: RV-List: Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for
sensors for RV-8
Hello-
Looking for suggestions on placement of AOA sensors
for an RV-8 wing.
(snip)
Dag Adamson
Cambridge, MA
Denver, CO
MSN 9 Dial-up Internet Access fights spam and pop-ups now 3 months FREE!
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
> EGT readings are relative and always go down as your
> plane goes up. Why?
> because EGT is a measure of the heat or power that
> the engine is producing.
This is not exactly true. EGT goes down as your plane
goes up because the mixture is getting richer (less
air, same fuel).
> Unless your engine is turboed, more altitude always
> means less air. Less
> air, less power, less heat! So your take-off temps
> should be higher than the
> max possible high altitude EGT readings.
PEAK EGT will decrease with altitude BUT don't forget,
proper Sea Level full power mixture is set well rich
of peak (250F).
Somewhere in the neighborhood of 8000', Peak EGT will
be pretty close to sea level takeoff EGT, and also
pretty close to peak power. Since the engine IS
making less power at this altitude, you don't need to
be well rich (or lean) of peak for temperature control.
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Slider Canopy Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Denis Walsh wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>
> My slider slides. I am happy.
>
> Personally I have even screwed up paint by leaving it in the can too
> long.
>
> On the other hand I have never had any av gas go stale on me.
>
> DLW
> On Jun 21, 2004, at 10:29 PM, Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club
> wrote:
>
> > . About the only thing I havent managed to screwed up on it is the
> > paint--- It is still in the cans. Phil in Illinois
> > sometimes, I wish I would have left its engine on the Pitt's......
> >
> > Do not archive...
Well it is 3:05 pm. I have worked on the canopy system about 7 days now. It is
on. Still have some trimming and tweeking, but it is on. A few little screw
ups, but it is on. I am going to work on the rollers a little, when the canopy
comes off again, but I am satisfied. Funny thing, the rear skirts were not a
problem. They wont win a beauty prize but I didnt have any problem with them.
The biggest complaint was the canopy frame being so untrue to everything else.
Even the right and left rear frames were not true with each other. They were
visibly different.
You know what they say... If it was all easy everyone would be doing it...
Well I have wasted 10 minutes on this computer tha should have been spent
trying to get that thing ready to fly..
Phil in Illinois
Do not archive
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Even when leaned, since the air is less dense at higher altitudes, the
naturally aspirated engine with produce less power as the altitude goes up.
Physics being what they are, as the air is less dense from any reason, the
power goes down. Even higher humidity will reduce the power output.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Skylor Piper" <skylor4@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: high egt's
> --> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
>
> > EGT readings are relative and always go down as your
> > plane goes up. Why?
> > because EGT is a measure of the heat or power that
> > the engine is producing.
>
> This is not exactly true. EGT goes down as your plane
> goes up because the mixture is getting richer (less
> air, same fuel).
>
>
> > Unless your engine is turboed, more altitude always
> > means less air. Less
> > air, less power, less heat! So your take-off temps
> > should be higher than the
> > max possible high altitude EGT readings.
>
> PEAK EGT will decrease with altitude BUT don't forget,
> proper Sea Level full power mixture is set well rich
> of peak (250F).
>
> Somewhere in the neighborhood of 8000', Peak EGT will
> be pretty close to sea level takeoff EGT, and also
> pretty close to peak power. Since the engine IS
> making less power at this altitude, you don't need to
> be well rich (or lean) of peak for temperature control.
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: SD-20 Alternator installation question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Ralph,
Update: I just checked the Cleaveland wrench on the RV-7 and it works fine
on the 7 o'clock nut, but it would be easier to get to if the oil filter was
removed. The length of the wrench is just enough to clear the rear of the
SD-20.
Pat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
> Thanks Pat! - mine is currently off the mount as you have described - I
just
> wanted to know if the tool would fit before I bought it.
>
> How did you measure the torque?...or did you just muscle it, paint a dot
on
> it, and check it regularly?
>
> Looking forward to hearing about that after-mounting access...!
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Thanks. Keep me posted when you get it all worked out.
Indiana Larry, RV7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
<rv-8@yahoogroups.com>; <RV10@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New MicroFilter Oil Filter...
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
> Larry...
>
> The filters have a cleanable and reusable filter element, so you don't
have
> to replace it... The filters are designed to last a lifetime, and will
> easily last the life of your 2000 hour engine! The quad-ring gasket and
the
> spirol lock are also designed to last for the life of your engine, but if
> you should damage them in any way, replacements will be available for just
a
> few bucks each...
>
> Pricing is yet to be determined, but consider this; on a 2000 hour engine,
> and changing the oil and filter every 50 hours, and Champion oil filters
at
> $17 a pop, you talking $680 in filters over the life of your engine...
Even
> if you go 100 hours on the filter you're talking $340!
>
> That said... I am hoping to keep the cost to about $150... I will let
you
> all know when I have all the details worked out...
>
> -Bill VonDane
> EAA Tech Counselor
> RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
> www.vondane.com
> www.creativair.com
> www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 26
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" <F.vanderHulst@ucol.ac.nz>
Hmmm... that page says that off-the-shelf hardware and OS are used.
Can I get an "As used in Space" badge for my PC? "Intel Outside (the
Atmosphere)"?
Wonder what the OS is?
This could bring a whole new meaning to Windows BSOD!
Frank
--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
http://www.scaled.com/projects/tierone/data_sheets/html/flight_nav.htm
Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online
at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL
(0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information
and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of
Learning.
Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your
future
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: First in Space |
--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
Nevermind...
--- Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper
> <skylor4@yahoo.com>
>
> This is tongue in cheek, right? I believe the EFIS
> systems in both White Knight and Spaceship One were
> developed jointly between scaled composites and
> Fundamental Technology Systems.
>
> Basic info is here:
>
>
http://www.scaled.com/projects/tierone/data_sheets/html/flight_nav.htm
>
> And a picture of it in flight is here:
>
>
http://www.scaled.com/projects/tierone/photos/images/video/14p_apogee.jpg
>
>
> --- Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us> wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North
> > <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> >
> > Well,
> >
> > since I use the daily digest I haven't yet heard
> > today's chatter, but I
> > couldn't resist waiting to post this one.
> >
> > A buddy of mine took the day off from building his
> > RV7 and popped up to
> > Mojave to watch and listen in.
> >
> > Apparently during the descent sometime Mike
> Neville
> > decided to disengage the
> > autopilot and commented on how it was flying
> without
> > it, then he commented
> > on how neat the Dynon D-10 was.
> >
> > So, that said, listen up you lurkers from Dynon, I
> > want the first promo
> > sticker that reads, "Dynon Avionics - First in
> > Space"
> >
> > Now if Van had been on top of this he could have
> > also paid Mike to blurt out
> > "What the heck just went over my head??? Dang me
> > Lord, that's an RV passing
> > on by!"
> >
> > Congrats D, that's a real cool deal to be the
> first
> > EFIS in space.
> >
> >
> > Driving a Dynon in a rocket ship brings to mind a
> > question about an
> > aerobatic screen option. When one is pointed
> > straight up is it possible for
> > the D10 to display a red dot on the straight up
> > point and a black dot on the
> > straight down point? This might appeal to some of
> > the aerobatic folks.
> > Another option that might appeal to that market
> > would be an aerobatic
> > setting option that reduces some of the pitch
> > dampening that occurs during a
> > loop, or rapid changes in velocity.
> >
> > In fact an aerobatic software version well thought
> > out might have some great
> > appeal to that market.
> >
> > Dynon D-10A(Normal)
> > Dynon D-10X(Aerobatic)
> > Dynon D-10S(Space-local)
> > Dynon D-10SI(Space-Intersteller)
> >
> > :{)
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> >
> > Contributions
> > any other
> > Forums.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/chat
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 28
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
EGT's alone are not a good measure of engine power:
For example: Run an engine 100 LOP and run 100 ROP at
the same MP. Same EGT, right? Yep Same power?
Absolutely not.
I KNOW less power is made at high altitude with a NA
engine. The last sentence in my previous post states
that...
I guess I should have said "Somewhere in the
neighborhood of 8000', PEAK EGT will be pretty close
to sea level takeoff EGT, and this will also be pretty
close to peak power [for that altitude]."
--- cgalley <cgalley@qcbc.org> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley"
> <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> Even when leaned, since the air is less dense at
> higher altitudes, the
> naturally aspirated engine with produce less power
> as the altitude goes up.
> Physics being what they are, as the air is less
> dense from any reason, the
> power goes down. Even higher humidity will reduce
> the power output.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Skylor Piper" <skylor4@yahoo.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: high egt's
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper
> <skylor4@yahoo.com>
> >
> > > EGT readings are relative and always go down as
> your
> > > plane goes up. Why?
> > > because EGT is a measure of the heat or power
> that
> > > the engine is producing.
> >
> > This is not exactly true. EGT goes down as your
> plane
> > goes up because the mixture is getting richer
> (less
> > air, same fuel).
> >
> >
> > > Unless your engine is turboed, more altitude
> always
> > > means less air. Less
> > > air, less power, less heat! So your take-off
> temps
> > > should be higher than the
> > > max possible high altitude EGT readings.
> >
> > PEAK EGT will decrease with altitude BUT don't
> forget,
> > proper Sea Level full power mixture is set well
> rich
> > of peak (250F).
> >
> > Somewhere in the neighborhood of 8000', Peak EGT
> will
> > be pretty close to sea level takeoff EGT, and also
> > pretty close to peak power. Since the engine IS
> > making less power at this altitude, you don't need
> to
> > be well rich (or lean) of peak for temperature
> control.
> >
> >
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors |
for RV-8
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Dag,
I know you've a couple of good responses. If you still have any questions -
I'd give Jim Frantz a call at Pro Sys. Have you decided where you're going
to locate the indicator? If you decide to place it above the glare shield in
the Left side - Jim makes a holder for it.
Good Building,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: dag adamson <dag_adamson@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To:
>rv-list@matronics.com.pts.rule.name.description.----.----------------------.-------------------------------------------
>Subject: RV-List: Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for
>sensors for RV-8
>Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 09:34:41 -0700 (PDT)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson <dag_adamson@yahoo.com>
>
>Hello-
>
>Looking for suggestions on placement of AOA sensors
>for an RV-8 wing.
>
>I know the instuctions say 10 to 40% of the cord
>
>With the tips off - I was planning on installing the
>top and lower sensors in the first bay. Thoughts?
>
>How man inches from the leading edge? or inches from
>the forward cutout hole of the rib?
>
>Thanks
>Dag
>PS please post and email.
>
>=====
>*****************
>Dag Adamson
>617 513 1182
>Cambridge, MA
>Denver, CO
>*****************
>
>
>__________________________________
>http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
>
>
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Garmin/Navaid interface |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
Thanks for the help.............you are the only one of all those Rocket
Scientists on the list who responded. I don't know if there is a difference
in pinouts between a panel mount and handheld, but I found out that I can
use the Deviation Bar pinouts (R & L) from the GPS to the AP-1 pins 3 and 6
since the GPS output is analog on these two pins. I got this from a tech
at Pacific Coast Avionics.
Thanks again
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin/Navaid interface
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> See the page 7 in your Navaid manual for Fig. 3. In my manual there are 2
> page 7's and 2 Fig. 3's! You want the one titled "WIRING DIAGRAM FOR
HAND-HELD
> GPS AND AP-1 WITH GPS COUPLER." It shows the Data Out pin of the GPS
going to
> pin 8 of the Autopilot. Ground of the GPS also needs to go to ground of
the
> Autopilot (pin 1). You also need to connect 2 jumpers: one from pin 11 to
pin
> 3, and one from pin 12 to pin 6. The pins on the GPS you can find in your
> GPS manual or on the internet by searching for "Garmin connector." I used
a
> twisted pair of wires to make the connection.
>
> A Garmin connector is avaliable at pfranc.com that is only $5 if your GNC
> 300XL has the same connector as the Garmin 295.
>
> You will need to go to the interface screen on the GPS and enable the NMEA
> output. This causes the GPS to send serial (ASCII) data which the Smart
Coupler
> receives and converts to an analog voltage which comes out pins 11 and 12,
> and goes back into pins 3 and 6.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (Taxi testing & waiting for inspection)
>
>
> In a message dated 6/17/04 11:49:51 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> jlanglin44@earthlink.net writes:
>
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
> >
> > I am having trouble figuring out which pin goes to which pin to navigate
> > with input from my Garmin GNC 300XL to my Navaid autopilot. If anyone
out
> > there has some positive input I will listen. I have the Smart Coupler
in my
> > autopilot if that helps.
> >
> > Jim Anglin
> > HR II
> >
> >
>
>
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
Hello Bill
I've been flying behind a 3 bladded Catto Prop on my RV-4 for
the last 3 years and I can tell you that I wouldn't trade it for any wood
or fix pitch metal prop for all the gold in world (Well maybe for all the
gold in the world).
It is very well built and very smooth compared to my previous
wood prop ( B.Warnke) and the better ground clearance is a plus on gravel
or dirt strip.
Craig Catto has been very nice to deal with but expect a 2.5
to 3 months delivery window.Specially before the Reno Races which keep Craig
pretty busy.
Hope it answered some of your questions.
Cheers
Bruno Dionne
rv4@videotron.ca
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