---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 06/22/04: 31 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 03:37 AM - Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. (Bob 1) 2. 04:33 AM - Re: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... (LarryRobertHelming) 3. 04:38 AM - Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. (LarryRobertHelming) 4. 04:41 AM - Re: high egt's (cgalley) 5. 04:55 AM - Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. (SportAV8R@aol.com) 6. 05:48 AM - Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. (linn walters) 7. 05:52 AM - Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. (Bob 1) 8. 06:15 AM - Re: SD-20 Alternator installation question (Pat Hatch) 9. 06:17 AM - Re: high egt's (Scott Bilinski) 10. 06:17 AM - Re: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. (RV_8 Pilot) 11. 06:23 AM - Re: Slider Canopy Help (Denis Walsh) 12. 07:00 AM - Cool Collar installation (Frazier, Vincent A) 13. 07:15 AM - Re: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... (Bill VonDane) 14. 07:20 AM - Canopy Frame Tweak () 15. 09:36 AM - Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors for RV-8 (dag adamson) 16. 10:05 AM - Re: First in Space (Skylor Piper) 17. 10:40 AM - Re: Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors for RV-8 (Condrey, Bob (US SSA)) 18. 10:44 AM - QB Aft top skin F-7112 (slider canopy0 (Richard Suffoletto) 19. 10:57 AM - Re: QB Aft top skin F-7112 (slider canopy0 (Ralph E. Capen) 20. 11:29 AM - Re: Pro Sys AOA - RV-8 Location (Jack Blomgren) 21. 11:32 AM - Re: high egt's (Skylor Piper) 22. 01:17 PM - Re: Slider Canopy Help (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club) 23. 01:57 PM - Re: high egt's (cgalley) 24. 02:07 PM - Re: SD-20 Alternator installation question (Pat Hatch) 25. 02:18 PM - Re: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... (LarryRobertHelming) 26. 02:38 PM - Re: First in Space (Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)) 27. 02:43 PM - Re: First in Space (Skylor Piper) 28. 03:03 PM - Re: high egt's (Skylor Piper) 29. 04:42 PM - Re: Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors for RV-8 (Charles Rowbotham) 30. 05:03 PM - Re: Garmin/Navaid interface (Jim Anglin) 31. 09:21 PM - Catto Prop VS (Bruno) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 03:37:22 AM PST US From: "Bob 1" Subject: Re: RV-List: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" > --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com > > Not to open a can of worms, but where do you want your oil temps to be? I usually fiddle with the air door on the cooler if I can't get temps up to at least 180, and I like to see 200-210 in cruise since I know then the water is boiling off at altitude. Should I be trying to stay below 200?? > > -BB > do not archive ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ FWIW... Water boils at LESS than 212 degrees at altitude. For example - at 82,500 feet on a standard day... H20 [water] boils at approximately 70 degrees. SOB - Sweet Old Bob do not archive ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:33:43 AM PST US From: "LarryRobertHelming" Subject: Re: RV-List: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" The picture enlarging works on my computer. I just wonder how much the filter housing and replaceable filters will cost. Have you set prices yet? Do you need more testers? Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker" do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard E. Tasker" Subject: Re: RV-List: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... > --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" > > Hey, Bill. The "enlarged" pictures on your web site are the same size > as the un-enlarged pictures (at least on my computer) - both small. > > Dick Tasker > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 04:38:10 AM PST US From: "LarryRobertHelming" Subject: Re: RV-List: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob 1" Subject: Re: RV-List: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com > > > > Not to open a can of worms, but where do you want your oil temps to be? I > usually fiddle with the air door on the cooler if I can't get temps up to at > least 180, and I like to see 200-210 in cruise since I know then the water > is boiling off at altitude. Should I be trying to stay below 200?? > > > > -BB > > do not archive > > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > > FWIW... > > Water boils at LESS than 212 degrees at altitude. > > For example - at 82,500 feet on a standard day... > H20 [water] boils at approximately 70 degrees. > > SOB - Sweet Old Bob ((((((((()))))))))))) Interesting. What is the formula so anyone could determine the boil temp for other altitudes, like say 12,000 or 8,000 feet. I don't plan to take my 7 up to 82,500 for a while anyway. ;-) While you are doing that, I assume that the freezing temp for water changes also at altitude. How about that formula too if you don't mind. Thanks, Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker" ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 04:41:49 AM PST US From: "cgalley" Subject: Re: RV-List: high egt's --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" EGT readings are relative and always go down as your plane goes up. Why? because EGT is a measure of the heat or power that the engine is producing. Unless your engine is turboed, more altitude always means less air. Less air, less power, less heat! So your take-off temps should be higher than the max possible high altitude EGT readings. Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "Skylor Piper" Subject: Re: RV-List: high egt's > --> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper > > 1450 to 1500 might be a bit high, but what's really > more important is your CHT's. If your CHT's run below > 380 at full power/climb power, then you're fine. If > you're CHT's are warmer, you need to have your full > power mixture richened. Once you've established good > takeoff/climb CHT's, then you can note your EGT's and > use those as future reference for ideal takeoff > mixture, & those EGT's will be good target values for > high altitude takeoff leaning. > > --- Dave Ford wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" > > > > > > Just wondering about egt's and what is considered a > > normal range during takeoff--I am showing in the > > yellow at about 1450 to 1500 F. I know it is > > relative to where the probes are on the exhaust but > > is the range of temp really a cause for concern or > > is it more to look at a departing individual egt > > from the group? > > > > Dave Ford > > RV6 85 hours > > > > > > > > Contributions > > any other > > Forums. > > > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 04:55:48 AM PST US From: SportAV8R@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com FWIW... Water boils at LESS than 212 degrees at altitude. For example - at 82,500 feet on a standard day... H20 [water] boils at approximately 70 degrees. SOB - Sweet Old Bob Yeah, I know. That's why my post never mentioned a temp above 210 ;-) I also know the oil temps are slightl;y higher in the bowels of the crankcase than at the oil temp sensor in the hi-pressure screen housing. But much of the flying I do is around the patch at 2000 MSL or less, so my question still stands: what temps are we shooting for to get the job done and be nice to the oil? -BB do not archive ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:48:27 AM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters LarryRobertHelming wrote: >((((((((()))))))))))) >Interesting. What is the formula so anyone could determine the boil temp >for other altitudes, like say 12,000 or 8,000 feet. I don't plan to take my >7 up to 82,500 for a while anyway. ;-) > PV=nRT >While you are doing that, I assume that the freezing temp for water changes >also at altitude. How about that formula too if you don't mind. > Water freezes at 32 deg F or 0 deg C. No change at altitude. Linn > >Thanks, Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker" > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 05:52:42 AM PST US From: "Bob 1" Subject: Re: RV-List: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" > > FWIW... > > Water boils at LESS than 212 degrees at altitude. > > For example - at 82,500 feet on a standard day... > H20 [water] boils at approximately 70 degrees. > > SOB - Sweet Old Bob > > Yeah, I know. That's why my post never mentioned a temp above 210 ;-) I also know the oil temps are slightl;y higher in the bowels of the crankcase than at the oil temp sensor in the hi-pressure screen housing. But much of the flying I do is around the patch at 2000 MSL or less, so my question still stands: what temps are we shooting for to get the job done and be nice to the oil? > > -BB do not archive ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ The 0-320 Textron Lycoming Operator's Manual sez.... Average Ambient Air ------------ Above 80 degrees F. Desired ... 180 degrees F. Max ....... 245 degrees F. 0 degrees to 70 degrees F. Desired ... 170 degrees F. Max ....... 225 degrees F. SOB - Sweet Old BOb Do not archive ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:15:42 AM PST US From: "Pat Hatch" Subject: Re: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" Ralph, I was able to torque three of the nuts with the torque wrench, then I guessed at the one with the Cleaveland wrench based on the other three. I did use torque seal on the nut to mark it. I have the -7 uncowled today so I will check the clearance and get back to you. Pat ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: Re: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" > > Thanks Pat! - mine is currently off the mount as you have described - I just > wanted to know if the tool would fit before I bought it. > > How did you measure the torque?...or did you just muscle it, paint a dot on > it, and check it regularly? > > Looking forward to hearing about that after-mounting access...! > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Pat Hatch" > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" > > > > Ralph, > > > > I have the SD-20 on the RV-7 and used the Cleaveland vacuum pump tool. > > Worked very well. However, I think it is much easier to mount the SD-20 > > when the engine is off the mount. Not sure how much access their is for > the > > wrench with the engine on the aircraft/mount. I'll check it out and let > you > > know. > > > > Pat Hatch > > RV-4 > > RV-6 > > RV-7 All Flying > > Vero Beach, FL > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Ralph E. Capen" > > To: > > Subject: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question > > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" > > > > > > Fellow listers, > > > > > > Have any of you successfully used either the Aircraft Spruce or > Cleaveland > > vacuum pump installation tool (wrench) on a B&C SD-20 alternator? > > > > > > There is one bolt at 7 o'clock that can't be gotten to 'normally'. One > > lister made a tool with a 1/4" drive socket and some 1/4" square stock > bent > > to fit so I know it can be done..... > > > > > > I've sent mail to both Spruce and Cleaveland without any answers - so > > far.... > > > > > > Thanks, > > > Ralph Capen > > > RV6A N822AR - finally registered! > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 06:17:10 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: high egt's --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski With my set up the highest I see is just over 1400. On a normal day with a full rich climb out I will see about 1250. I have the VM1000. At 09:51 PM 6/21/2004 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" > >Just wondering about egt's and what is considered a normal range during >takeoff--I am showing in the yellow at about 1450 to 1500 F. I know it is >relative to where the probes are on the exhaust but is the range of temp >really a cause for concern or is it more to look at a departing individual >egt from the group? > >Dave Ford >RV6 85 hours > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 06:17:10 AM PST US From: "RV_8 Pilot" Subject: Re: RV-List: Cool Collar oil filter cooler. --> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" I believe the water in the oil issue is more complex than the boiling point of water at a given elevation. It's a dynamics of soluability issue (Henry's Law?). I don't have the specifics on hand for water in oil, but I bet SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) or (Aero)Shell does. When you dissolve one liquid in another, the resulting mixture takes on different physical properties. As far as getting the water out, there'll always be some water dissolved in the oil. How much is too much (10, 100, 1000 ppm)? Again, try asking someone like SAE or Shell. I'd think for lubricity, up to saturation (free water) would be OK. Now corrosion may be a different story. Bottom line - I don't believe boiling point of water matters for dissolved water in oil. As for the temp issue, I'd go to the two groups above for technical backup - SAE and Shell. Couple of clicks on the Internet and I got a Shell contacts form. http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=aviation-en&FC2=/aviation-en/html/iwgen/leftnavs/zzz_lhn10_0_0.html&FC3=/aviation-en/html/iwgen/contact.html Bryan Jones -8 www.LoneStarSquadron.com Houston, Texas >FWIW... > >Water boils at LESS than 212 degrees at altitude. > >For example - at 82,500 feet on a standard day... >H20 [water] boils at approximately 70 degrees. > >SOB - Sweet Old Bob > >Yeah, I know. That's why my post never mentioned a temp above 210 ;-) I >also know the oil temps are slightl;y higher in the bowels of the crankcase >than at the oil temp sensor in the hi-pressure screen housing. But much of >the flying I do is around the patch at 2000 MSL or less, so my question >still stands: what temps are we shooting for to get the job done and be >nice to the oil? > >-BB do not archive ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 06:23:22 AM PST US From: Denis Walsh Subject: Re: RV-List: Slider Canopy Help --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh My slider slides. I am happy. Personally I have even screwed up paint by leaving it in the can too long. On the other hand I have never had any av gas go stale on me. DLW On Jun 21, 2004, at 10:29 PM, Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club wrote: > . About the only thing I havent managed to screwed up on it is the > paint--- It is still in the cans. Phil in Illinois > sometimes, I wish I would have left its engine on the Pitt's...... > > Do not archive... > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:00:08 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Cool Collar installation From: "Frazier, Vincent A" --> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" Cool Collar installation Squirt some silicone heat sink compound on it before installation so you'll get good heat transfer. You can get the silicone stuff at any electronics store. Vince ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:15:40 AM PST US From: Bill VonDane Subject: Re: RV-List: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... rv-8@yahoogroups.com, RV10@yahoogroups.com --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane Larry... The filters have a cleanable and reusable filter element, so you don't have to replace it... The filters are designed to last a lifetime, and will easily last the life of your 2000 hour engine! The quad-ring gasket and the spirol lock are also designed to last for the life of your engine, but if you should damage them in any way, replacements will be available for just a few bucks each... Pricing is yet to be determined, but consider this; on a 2000 hour engine, and changing the oil and filter every 50 hours, and Champion oil filters at $17 a pop, you talking $680 in filters over the life of your engine... Even if you go 100 hours on the filter you're talking $340! That said... I am hoping to keep the cost to about $150... I will let you all know when I have all the details worked out... -Bill VonDane EAA Tech Counselor RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs www.vondane.com www.creativair.com www.epanelbuilder.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "LarryRobertHelming" Subject: Re: RV-List: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" The picture enlarging works on my computer. I just wonder how much the filter housing and replaceable filters will cost. Have you set prices yet? Do you need more testers? Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker" ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 07:20:25 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Canopy Frame Tweak From: --> RV-List message posted by: Guys (and all) all canopys are a royal pain in the A$$. I bent my frame for 2 long days before I cut it apart and peged it and had it welded. Now that you have drilled the glass on you have a serious delima that you need to be aware of. This is a closed loop. The stress that you put on the canopy on the front bow will manifest itself in the rear bow if you are not extremely carefull to isolate what you do. DO NOT bend the bow on your knee after you have it drilled. I helped a rocket builder one day. His started out just like you describe. The glass put an outward bias on the rollers. So he grabbed his frame and just bent it in. We bent that frame for 8 hours chasing out the new stresses. Don't do this. Make a wood form out of ply wood that will isolate what you need to do. Make sure the form holds the frame secure and bends only what you intend. What you need is an inward bias and you can simply put spacers between the glass and the bars if you need to maintain the shape you currently have, after you do the bending. Also keep in mind, it will loosen up as the rollers wear, help them out by sanding them down on the edges just a little, make a nice smooth radius with 600 grit sand paper. Hope this helps Eric > --> RV-List message posted by: "davercook" > > Hi all > > Canopy frustration time. Question, after drilling canopy to frame, it causes the frame to exert pressure on the tracks so that the canopy nolonger rolls , but scrapes the track and digs into the aluminum. I widened the tracks about 1/8" on both sides but no joy.I trimmed the rollers , no joy.I bent the bracket holding the roller, no joy. What's a body to do,start over? I tried bending the front bow for conformity to the roll bar and broke it and had to have it welded so I know I don't want to go that route again. Sometimes the head of the screw digs in, and sometime the shoulder of the bracket digs in. > > I should have built the tip-up! > Dave Cook Finish Kit/Canopy Hey Dave....... I should have built a tip over. I am doing my canopy and I am having same frustrations. The canopy bow is an abortion as it comes from the factory. !/2 inch off from the windshild bow in some areas. I straightened, rebent, straightend and rebent and I am almost there now. Then I talk with others who say theirs mated right up. Oh well I made my mind up a couple of years ago that it wasnt going to get any trophy's. About the only thing I havent managed to screwed up on it is the paint--- It is still in the cans. Phil in Illinois sometimes, I wish I would have left its engine on the Pitt's...... ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 09:36:44 AM PST US From: dag adamson Subject: RV-List: Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors for RV-8 --> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson Hello- Looking for suggestions on placement of AOA sensors for an RV-8 wing. I know the instuctions say 10 to 40% of the cord With the tips off - I was planning on installing the top and lower sensors in the first bay. Thoughts? How man inches from the leading edge? or inches from the forward cutout hole of the rib? Thanks Dag PS please post and email. ===== ***************** Dag Adamson 617 513 1182 Cambridge, MA Denver, CO ***************** __________________________________ http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 10:05:14 AM PST US From: Skylor Piper Subject: Re: RV-List: First in Space --> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper This is tongue in cheek, right? I believe the EFIS systems in both White Knight and Spaceship One were developed jointly between scaled composites and Fundamental Technology Systems. Basic info is here: http://www.scaled.com/projects/tierone/data_sheets/html/flight_nav.htm And a picture of it in flight is here: http://www.scaled.com/projects/tierone/photos/images/video/14p_apogee.jpg --- Wheeler North wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North > > > Well, > > since I use the daily digest I haven't yet heard > today's chatter, but I > couldn't resist waiting to post this one. > > A buddy of mine took the day off from building his > RV7 and popped up to > Mojave to watch and listen in. > > Apparently during the descent sometime Mike Neville > decided to disengage the > autopilot and commented on how it was flying without > it, then he commented > on how neat the Dynon D-10 was. > > So, that said, listen up you lurkers from Dynon, I > want the first promo > sticker that reads, "Dynon Avionics - First in > Space" > > Now if Van had been on top of this he could have > also paid Mike to blurt out > "What the heck just went over my head??? Dang me > Lord, that's an RV passing > on by!" > > Congrats D, that's a real cool deal to be the first > EFIS in space. > > > Driving a Dynon in a rocket ship brings to mind a > question about an > aerobatic screen option. When one is pointed > straight up is it possible for > the D10 to display a red dot on the straight up > point and a black dot on the > straight down point? This might appeal to some of > the aerobatic folks. > Another option that might appeal to that market > would be an aerobatic > setting option that reduces some of the pitch > dampening that occurs during a > loop, or rapid changes in velocity. > > In fact an aerobatic software version well thought > out might have some great > appeal to that market. > > Dynon D-10A(Normal) > Dynon D-10X(Aerobatic) > Dynon D-10S(Space-local) > Dynon D-10SI(Space-Intersteller) > > :{) > > do not archive > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > __________________________________ http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 10:40:12 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors for RV-8 From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" Actually they have detailed info on the web site - I've attached the link. I just purchased one of these for my RV-10. http://www.angle-of-attack.com/FAQ.htm Scroll down and there's a table with locations for a variety of aircraft including all of the RVs. Bob RV-10 #40105 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dag adamson To: rv-list@matronics.com.pts.rule.name.description.----.------------------- ---.------------------------------------------- Subject: RV-List: Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors for RV-8 --> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson Hello- Looking for suggestions on placement of AOA sensors for an RV-8 wing. I know the instuctions say 10 to 40% of the cord With the tips off - I was planning on installing the top and lower sensors in the first bay. Thoughts? How man inches from the leading edge? or inches from the forward cutout hole of the rib? Thanks Dag PS please post and email. ===== ***************** Dag Adamson 617 513 1182 Cambridge, MA Denver, CO ***************** __________________________________ http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail == direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. == == == ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 10:44:30 AM PST US From: "Richard Suffoletto" Subject: RV-List: QB Aft top skin F-7112 (slider canopy0 pts rule name description ---- ---------------------- ------------------------------------------- --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Suffoletto" It's not clear to me when you are suppose to rivet on the aft top skin F-7112. The instructtions end with telling you to cleco on the skin and match up the F-6111 l R brace. I have read through the manual up to and including the canopy installation and have found no mention of riveting on the Aft top skin. Seems it should be done before the canopy on a slider. Can any of you who have been through this give me some guidance? Thanks Richard.... drilling out too many rivets... ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 10:57:50 AM PST US From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: Re: RV-List: QB Aft top skin F-7112 (slider canopy0 --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" I did mine right before fitting the slider mechanism...I could have put the clecoes in from below - but I wanted it to have no chances of changing. No regrets so far and I'll be working the plastic this summer. Ralph Capen 6AQB N822AR -----Original Message----- From: Richard Suffoletto Subject: RV-List: QB Aft top skin F-7112 (slider canopy0 --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Suffoletto" It's not clear to me when you are suppose to rivet on the aft top skin F-7112. The instructtions end with telling you to cleco on the skin and match up the F-6111 l R brace. I have read through the manual up to and including the canopy installation and have found no mention of riveting on the Aft top skin. Seems it should be done before the canopy on a slider. Can any of you who have been through this give me some guidance? Thanks Richard.... drilling out too many rivets... ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 11:29:31 AM PST US From: "Jack Blomgren" Subject: RE: RV-List: Pro Sys AOA - RV-8 Location --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" Dag. Placement guide for the -8 wing are in the AOA Operating and Installation Manual, and are as follows: Wing Span Location--"Middle of the outboard wing bay. Upper port 4 3/4" and lower port 7 1/2" inboard of the wing skin outer end." Wing Chord Location-- " 6" forward of the wing skin break [or] about 12" aft of the leading edge." Jack, -8 80% Red Wing, MN From: dag adamson dag_adamson@yahoo.com Subject: RV-List: Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors for RV-8 Hello- Looking for suggestions on placement of AOA sensors for an RV-8 wing. (snip) Dag Adamson Cambridge, MA Denver, CO MSN 9 Dial-up Internet Access fights spam and pop-ups now 3 months FREE! http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/ ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 11:32:16 AM PST US From: Skylor Piper Subject: Re: RV-List: high egt's --> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper > EGT readings are relative and always go down as your > plane goes up. Why? > because EGT is a measure of the heat or power that > the engine is producing. This is not exactly true. EGT goes down as your plane goes up because the mixture is getting richer (less air, same fuel). > Unless your engine is turboed, more altitude always > means less air. Less > air, less power, less heat! So your take-off temps > should be higher than the > max possible high altitude EGT readings. PEAK EGT will decrease with altitude BUT don't forget, proper Sea Level full power mixture is set well rich of peak (250F). Somewhere in the neighborhood of 8000', Peak EGT will be pretty close to sea level takeoff EGT, and also pretty close to peak power. Since the engine IS making less power at this altitude, you don't need to be well rich (or lean) of peak for temperature control. __________________________________ http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 01:17:34 PM PST US From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" Subject: Re: RV-List: Slider Canopy Help --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" Denis Walsh wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh > > My slider slides. I am happy. > > Personally I have even screwed up paint by leaving it in the can too > long. > > On the other hand I have never had any av gas go stale on me. > > DLW > On Jun 21, 2004, at 10:29 PM, Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club > wrote: > > > . About the only thing I havent managed to screwed up on it is the > > paint--- It is still in the cans. Phil in Illinois > > sometimes, I wish I would have left its engine on the Pitt's...... > > > > Do not archive... Well it is 3:05 pm. I have worked on the canopy system about 7 days now. It is on. Still have some trimming and tweeking, but it is on. A few little screw ups, but it is on. I am going to work on the rollers a little, when the canopy comes off again, but I am satisfied. Funny thing, the rear skirts were not a problem. They wont win a beauty prize but I didnt have any problem with them. The biggest complaint was the canopy frame being so untrue to everything else. Even the right and left rear frames were not true with each other. They were visibly different. You know what they say... If it was all easy everyone would be doing it... Well I have wasted 10 minutes on this computer tha should have been spent trying to get that thing ready to fly.. Phil in Illinois Do not archive ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 01:57:11 PM PST US From: "cgalley" Subject: Re: RV-List: high egt's --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" Even when leaned, since the air is less dense at higher altitudes, the naturally aspirated engine with produce less power as the altitude goes up. Physics being what they are, as the air is less dense from any reason, the power goes down. Even higher humidity will reduce the power output. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Skylor Piper" Subject: Re: RV-List: high egt's > --> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper > > > EGT readings are relative and always go down as your > > plane goes up. Why? > > because EGT is a measure of the heat or power that > > the engine is producing. > > This is not exactly true. EGT goes down as your plane > goes up because the mixture is getting richer (less > air, same fuel). > > > > Unless your engine is turboed, more altitude always > > means less air. Less > > air, less power, less heat! So your take-off temps > > should be higher than the > > max possible high altitude EGT readings. > > PEAK EGT will decrease with altitude BUT don't forget, > proper Sea Level full power mixture is set well rich > of peak (250F). > > Somewhere in the neighborhood of 8000', Peak EGT will > be pretty close to sea level takeoff EGT, and also > pretty close to peak power. Since the engine IS > making less power at this altitude, you don't need to > be well rich (or lean) of peak for temperature control. > > > __________________________________ > http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail > > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 02:07:02 PM PST US From: "Pat Hatch" Subject: Re: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" Ralph, Update: I just checked the Cleaveland wrench on the RV-7 and it works fine on the 7 o'clock nut, but it would be easier to get to if the oil filter was removed. The length of the wrench is just enough to clear the rear of the SD-20. Pat ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: Re: RV-List: SD-20 Alternator installation question > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" > > Thanks Pat! - mine is currently off the mount as you have described - I just > wanted to know if the tool would fit before I bought it. > > How did you measure the torque?...or did you just muscle it, paint a dot on > it, and check it regularly? > > Looking forward to hearing about that after-mounting access...! > ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 02:18:58 PM PST US From: "LarryRobertHelming" Subject: Re: RV-List: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" Thanks. Keep me posted when you get it all worked out. Indiana Larry, RV7 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill VonDane" ; Subject: Re: RV-List: New MicroFilter Oil Filter... > --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane > > Larry... > > The filters have a cleanable and reusable filter element, so you don't have > to replace it... The filters are designed to last a lifetime, and will > easily last the life of your 2000 hour engine! The quad-ring gasket and the > spirol lock are also designed to last for the life of your engine, but if > you should damage them in any way, replacements will be available for just a > few bucks each... > > Pricing is yet to be determined, but consider this; on a 2000 hour engine, > and changing the oil and filter every 50 hours, and Champion oil filters at > $17 a pop, you talking $680 in filters over the life of your engine... Even > if you go 100 hours on the filter you're talking $340! > > That said... I am hoping to keep the cost to about $150... I will let you > all know when I have all the details worked out... > > -Bill VonDane > EAA Tech Counselor > RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs > www.vondane.com > www.creativair.com > www.epanelbuilder.com ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 02:38:20 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: First in Space From: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Frank van der Hulst (Staff WG)" Hmmm... that page says that off-the-shelf hardware and OS are used. Can I get an "As used in Space" badge for my PC? "Intel Outside (the Atmosphere)"? Wonder what the OS is? This could bring a whole new meaning to Windows BSOD! Frank --> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper http://www.scaled.com/projects/tierone/data_sheets/html/flight_nav.htm Learn real skills for the real world - Apply online at http://www.ucol.ac.nz or call 0800 GO UCOL (0800 46 8265) or txt free 3388 for more information and make a good move to UCOL Universal College of Learning. Enrol with a public institute and be certain of your future ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 02:43:49 PM PST US From: Skylor Piper Subject: Re: RV-List: First in Space --> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper Nevermind... --- Skylor Piper wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper > > > This is tongue in cheek, right? I believe the EFIS > systems in both White Knight and Spaceship One were > developed jointly between scaled composites and > Fundamental Technology Systems. > > Basic info is here: > > http://www.scaled.com/projects/tierone/data_sheets/html/flight_nav.htm > > And a picture of it in flight is here: > > http://www.scaled.com/projects/tierone/photos/images/video/14p_apogee.jpg > > > --- Wheeler North wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North > > > > > > Well, > > > > since I use the daily digest I haven't yet heard > > today's chatter, but I > > couldn't resist waiting to post this one. > > > > A buddy of mine took the day off from building his > > RV7 and popped up to > > Mojave to watch and listen in. > > > > Apparently during the descent sometime Mike > Neville > > decided to disengage the > > autopilot and commented on how it was flying > without > > it, then he commented > > on how neat the Dynon D-10 was. > > > > So, that said, listen up you lurkers from Dynon, I > > want the first promo > > sticker that reads, "Dynon Avionics - First in > > Space" > > > > Now if Van had been on top of this he could have > > also paid Mike to blurt out > > "What the heck just went over my head??? Dang me > > Lord, that's an RV passing > > on by!" > > > > Congrats D, that's a real cool deal to be the > first > > EFIS in space. > > > > > > Driving a Dynon in a rocket ship brings to mind a > > question about an > > aerobatic screen option. When one is pointed > > straight up is it possible for > > the D10 to display a red dot on the straight up > > point and a black dot on the > > straight down point? This might appeal to some of > > the aerobatic folks. > > Another option that might appeal to that market > > would be an aerobatic > > setting option that reduces some of the pitch > > dampening that occurs during a > > loop, or rapid changes in velocity. > > > > In fact an aerobatic software version well thought > > out might have some great > > appeal to that market. > > > > Dynon D-10A(Normal) > > Dynon D-10X(Aerobatic) > > Dynon D-10S(Space-local) > > Dynon D-10SI(Space-Intersteller) > > > > :{) > > > > do not archive > > > > > > > > Contributions > > any other > > Forums. > > > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > > http://www.matronics.com/archives > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > __________________________________ http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 03:03:54 PM PST US From: Skylor Piper Subject: Re: RV-List: high egt's --> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper EGT's alone are not a good measure of engine power: For example: Run an engine 100 LOP and run 100 ROP at the same MP. Same EGT, right? Yep Same power? Absolutely not. I KNOW less power is made at high altitude with a NA engine. The last sentence in my previous post states that... I guess I should have said "Somewhere in the neighborhood of 8000', PEAK EGT will be pretty close to sea level takeoff EGT, and this will also be pretty close to peak power [for that altitude]." --- cgalley wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" > > > Even when leaned, since the air is less dense at > higher altitudes, the > naturally aspirated engine with produce less power > as the altitude goes up. > Physics being what they are, as the air is less > dense from any reason, the > power goes down. Even higher humidity will reduce > the power output. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Skylor Piper" > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: high egt's > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper > > > > > > EGT readings are relative and always go down as > your > > > plane goes up. Why? > > > because EGT is a measure of the heat or power > that > > > the engine is producing. > > > > This is not exactly true. EGT goes down as your > plane > > goes up because the mixture is getting richer > (less > > air, same fuel). > > > > > > > Unless your engine is turboed, more altitude > always > > > means less air. Less > > > air, less power, less heat! So your take-off > temps > > > should be higher than the > > > max possible high altitude EGT readings. > > > > PEAK EGT will decrease with altitude BUT don't > forget, > > proper Sea Level full power mixture is set well > rich > > of peak (250F). > > > > Somewhere in the neighborhood of 8000', Peak EGT > will > > be pretty close to sea level takeoff EGT, and also > > pretty close to peak power. Since the engine IS > > making less power at this altitude, you don't need > to > > be well rich (or lean) of peak for temperature > control. > > > > > __________________________________ http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 04:42:52 PM PST US From: "Charles Rowbotham" Subject: RE: RV-List: Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for sensors for RV-8 --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" Dag, I know you've a couple of good responses. If you still have any questions - I'd give Jim Frantz a call at Pro Sys. Have you decided where you're going to locate the indicator? If you decide to place it above the glare shield in the Left side - Jim makes a holder for it. Good Building, Chuck Rowbotham RV-8A >From: dag adamson >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >rv-list@matronics.com.pts.rule.name.description.----.----------------------.------------------------------------------- >Subject: RV-List: Proprietary Systems AOA - Location suggestions for >sensors for RV-8 >Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2004 09:34:41 -0700 (PDT) > >--> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson > >Hello- > >Looking for suggestions on placement of AOA sensors >for an RV-8 wing. > >I know the instuctions say 10 to 40% of the cord > >With the tips off - I was planning on installing the >top and lower sensors in the first bay. Thoughts? > >How man inches from the leading edge? or inches from >the forward cutout hole of the rib? > >Thanks >Dag >PS please post and email. > >===== >***************** >Dag Adamson >617 513 1182 >Cambridge, MA >Denver, CO >***************** > > >__________________________________ >http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail > > http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/ ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 05:03:47 PM PST US From: "Jim Anglin" Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin/Navaid interface --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" Thanks for the help.............you are the only one of all those Rocket Scientists on the list who responded. I don't know if there is a difference in pinouts between a panel mount and handheld, but I found out that I can use the Deviation Bar pinouts (R & L) from the GPS to the AP-1 pins 3 and 6 since the GPS output is analog on these two pins. I got this from a tech at Pacific Coast Avionics. Thanks again Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin/Navaid interface > --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com > > > Hi Jim, > > See the page 7 in your Navaid manual for Fig. 3. In my manual there are 2 > page 7's and 2 Fig. 3's! You want the one titled "WIRING DIAGRAM FOR HAND-HELD > GPS AND AP-1 WITH GPS COUPLER." It shows the Data Out pin of the GPS going to > pin 8 of the Autopilot. Ground of the GPS also needs to go to ground of the > Autopilot (pin 1). You also need to connect 2 jumpers: one from pin 11 to pin > 3, and one from pin 12 to pin 6. The pins on the GPS you can find in your > GPS manual or on the internet by searching for "Garmin connector." I used a > twisted pair of wires to make the connection. > > A Garmin connector is avaliable at pfranc.com that is only $5 if your GNC > 300XL has the same connector as the Garmin 295. > > You will need to go to the interface screen on the GPS and enable the NMEA > output. This causes the GPS to send serial (ASCII) data which the Smart Coupler > receives and converts to an analog voltage which comes out pins 11 and 12, > and goes back into pins 3 and 6. > > Hope this helps, > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A (Taxi testing & waiting for inspection) > > > In a message dated 6/17/04 11:49:51 PM US Eastern Standard Time, > jlanglin44@earthlink.net writes: > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" > > > > I am having trouble figuring out which pin goes to which pin to navigate > > with input from my Garmin GNC 300XL to my Navaid autopilot. If anyone out > > there has some positive input I will listen. I have the Smart Coupler in my > > autopilot if that helps. > > > > Jim Anglin > > HR II > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 09:21:00 PM PST US From: Bruno Subject: RV-List: Catto Prop VS pts rule name description ---- ---------------------- ------------------------------------------- --> RV-List message posted by: Bruno Hello Bill I've been flying behind a 3 bladded Catto Prop on my RV-4 for the last 3 years and I can tell you that I wouldn't trade it for any wood or fix pitch metal prop for all the gold in world (Well maybe for all the gold in the world). It is very well built and very smooth compared to my previous wood prop ( B.Warnke) and the better ground clearance is a plus on gravel or dirt strip. Craig Catto has been very nice to deal with but expect a 2.5 to 3 months delivery window.Specially before the Reno Races which keep Craig pretty busy. Hope it answered some of your questions. Cheers Bruno Dionne rv4@videotron.ca