Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:36 AM - Re: Tilt canapy (JOHN STARN)
2. 01:10 AM - Hot air box with Ellison (Phil Chapman)
3. 02:52 AM - Dynon EFIS-D10A Usability (RV8ter@aol.com)
4. 03:50 AM - Re: Vertical Stab Alignment (Rvsearey@aol.com)
5. 04:05 AM - Re: Pilot operrating handbook (Jerry Calvert)
6. 04:31 AM - Re: Vertical Stab Alignment (Dana Overall)
7. 05:20 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 44 Msgs - 06/23/04 (Glen Matejcek)
8. 05:49 AM - Re: Vertical Stab Alignment (Ed Holyoke)
9. 06:40 AM - Painting Videos For Sale (richard dudley)
10. 06:46 AM - Re: Dynon EFIS-D10A Usability (RV_8 Pilot)
11. 07:17 AM - Re: Jeff Rose Electroair web site? (Ned Thomas)
12. 07:20 AM - Re: Tilt canapy (LML Klingmuller)
13. 07:32 AM - Re: Tilt canapy (bertrv6@highstream.net)
14. 08:17 AM - Re: Dynon EFIS-D10A Usability (Ross Schlotthauer)
15. 08:27 AM - Re: Dynon EFIS-D10A Usability (Rabaut, Chuck)
16. 09:08 AM - Re: Cowling mounting without prop (Eustace Bowhay)
17. 09:40 AM - Re: Jeff Rose Electroair web site? (Dale Mitchell)
18. 12:59 PM - Insurance Requirement Change (John)
19. 01:36 PM - Re: Insurance Requirement Change (RV9)
20. 01:43 PM - Re: Insurance Requirement Change (Rob Prior)
21. 02:01 PM - Airplanes on the cheap (Ross Mickey)
22. 02:33 PM - Re: Airplanes on the cheap (Scott Vanartsdalen)
23. 03:02 PM - Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA (Vic Jacko)
24. 03:59 PM - Re: RV List Spinner (czechsix@juno.com)
25. 05:01 PM - Re: RV-6/-7 Tip-up canopy side frame WD-725 (David Carter)
26. 05:05 PM - Re: Airplanes on the cheap (Ross Mickey)
27. 05:08 PM - Re: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA (sportpilot)
28. 05:09 PM - Re: Insurance Requirement Change (Charlie England)
29. 05:22 PM - Re: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA (Vic Jacko)
30. 06:22 PM - Re: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA (Harvey Sigmon)
31. 06:43 PM - Re:Insurance Requirement Change (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
32. 08:15 PM - Re: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA (Vic Jacko)
33. 09:26 PM - Re: Upper Gear Leg Fairing (Jeff Bertsch)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
You can also see where your going while in a turn, not as good as the view
from the HRII but it's better than the view from inside the Spirit of St.
Louis etc. KABONG 8*) Do Not Archive
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tilt canapy
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
>
> You can check your 6 while in flight!
>
> Great visibility
>
> Ron
> > Question for tilt canopy RV-6-7-&9's.:: What is the
> purpose/advantage/disadvantage of having plexiglass, behind the cokpit
over
> the baggage compartment??
Message 2
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| Subject: | Hot air box with Ellison |
24/06/2004 09:11:46
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Chapman <CHAPMAP@uk.ibm.com>
Hi,
Does anyone have a good design of a hot air box for use with a forward
facing Ellison carb, any help appreciated.
Cheers
Phil Chapman
Internet Chapmap@uk.ibm.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Dynon EFIS-D10A Usability |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
A few of questions about the Dynon EFIS for those that have flown with it for
a while.
Why haven't I heard anyone talk about it's Angle of Attack performance?
Does the AOA work well? Is it's display too small to be easily used in the
pattern?
Same for the VSI. I have heard that it's very hard to use in flight -
requires one to study it vs. quick glance. Why is that and have they tried to
fix
it yet?
For those that are using it, besides an alternate ASI and Altimeter, what
other steam gauge do you recommend to buy to make life easier? For example, is
the G meter too difficult to read during acro?
Finally, it's encoder. What's a good transponder that can take read it's
seriel output? The one I was contemplating appears setup for a parallel signal.
thx,
lucky
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Vertical Stab Alignment |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rvsearey@aol.com
In a message dated 06/24/2004 1:10:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
deanpsir@easystreet.com writes:
> Also, has anyone canted the vertical stab to the
> left to compensate for P-factor and torque
Dean, I offset the vertical stab 3/16th inch to the left on my RV-4 (180 HP,
CS prop) and no rudder trim was required.
Dan
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Pilot operrating handbook |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
Here are several POH's that may be beneficial.
http://www.vansairforce.net/poh.htm
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
N296JC RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux@bendnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pilot operrating handbook
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux@bendnet.com>
>
> Is there a web site someone can down load a POH for a RV6A
> 180 HP fixed pitch?
>
> REgards Mike Comeaux
> mcomeaux@bendnet.com
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Vertical Stab Alignment |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
The 7 plans call for a 1/4" offset.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
>From: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
Also, has anyone canted the vertical stab to the
>left to compensate for P-factor and torque? If so how much should it be
>canted (inches off centerline reference)
Message 7
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| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 44 Msgs - 06/23/04 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> The North 40's access to Friar Tuck, Wal Mart, etc. was sorely missed.
Wal Mart moved some time ago. It's now several miles away.
Bummer. It was a good source for all the stuff I forgot to pack.
gm
Message 8
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| Subject: | Vertical Stab Alignment |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
I stretched a string above the fuselage center line so I could drop
plumb bobs. Then it's a simple matter to make a center mark on the top
skin and you can do any offsets from there.
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dean
Psiropoulos
Subject: RV-List: Vertical Stab Alignment
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos"
<deanpsir@easystreet.com>
Anybody have a quick and easy way to set the leading edge of the
Vertical
stabilizer before drilling its front spar to the horizontal stabilizer?
I
have measured across the front spar of the horizontal stabilizer and
made a
mark at the midpoint as a reference thinking that if I align the
midpoint of
the vertical stab spar with this mark I'll get the vertical stab
centered on
the centerline of the fuselage as recommended by the plans (no left or
right
offset). I'm thinking this should give me a good reference point but is
there a better/easier way? Also, has anyone canted the vertical stab to
the
left to compensate for P-factor and torque? If so how much should it be
canted (inches off centerline reference) to compensate for the torque of
a
180 horse 0-360 Lycoming at 75% cruise? Is this a good idea or should I
just put the small wedge on the rudder and compensate for it that way?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Putting the BIG pieces together!
==
==
==
==
Message 9
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| Subject: | Painting Videos For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Potential Painters,
I have two videos on painting that I would like to sell. They are:
- Aircraft Painting 101 by Sam James (cost $25 from Van's)
- Spray Painting 101 by Len Stuart (cost $25)
You can have the pair for $30. I'll pay the postage.
Please contact me off line.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A painting
Do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Dynon EFIS-D10A Usability |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>Same for the VSI. I have heard that it's very hard to use in flight -
>requires one to study it vs. quick glance. Why is that and have they tried
>to fix
>it yet?
It has very small numbers on the display, but does work well. For me, it's
much easier to glance at the old steam gauge VSI. Seems that Dynon could
make the display items optionally large or small with some future software
rev. That might make it better. But when they get the autopilot system
finished, it'll be a moot point - for cruise anyway! ;)
>For those that are using it, besides an alternate ASI and Altimeter, what
>other steam gauge do you recommend to buy to make life easier?
I like my current arrangement - Typical 6-pack with Dynon top center and
Garmin 196 embedded bottom center. Might go with 2.25" instruments when I
built my F-1 (wishing) at some point in the future.
>For example, is the G meter too difficult to read during acro?
No, I have trained my eyes to know where to go when I'm pulling. It works
OK and I believe I like not having the old analog G-meter in the panel.
For normal flight, and even IMC, I pretty much use the Dynon for attitude
only. still like the conventional altimeter, airspeed, VSI.
Don't get me wrong though... I think the Dynon EFIS is one of the best
homebuilder avionics developments in the last 20 years.
>Finally, it's encoder. What's a good transponder that can take read it's
>seriel output? The one I was contemplating appears setup for a parallel
>signal.
Contemplating the change to the D-10A, I am faced with putting that d@##
encoder back in or switching transponders (MORE $$!). I believe I'd go with
the Garmin GTX-327. Solid state, digital, about $1900 and Garmin. Not sure
what I'll do about the xpdr situation... Probably put the encoder back in.
Bryan Jones -8
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Jeff Rose Electroair web site? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ned Thomas" <923te@cox.net>
Anyone know of a link to information on Jeff Rose Electroair electronic
ignition?
Thanks,
Ned
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller@earthlink.net>
LIGHT, LOOKS (while parked) , for all to see what you have in the baggage compartment
and more glass to polish.
Ggo to a tip up and cover it with dark paper to see what it looks like.
LML Klingmuller
l_klingmuller@earthlink.net
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Quoting JOHN STARN <jhstarn@verizon.net>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>
> You can also see where your going while in a turn, not as good as the view
> from the HRII but it's better than the view from inside the Spirit of St.
> Louis etc. KABONG 8*) Do Not Archive
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Tilt canapy
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
> >
> > You can check your 6 while in flight!
> >
> > Great visibility
> >
> > Ron
> > > Question for tilt canopy RV-6-7-&9's.:: What is the
> > purpose/advantage/disadvantage of having plexiglass, behind the cokpit
> over
> > the baggage compartment??
>
> What is a canapy? is that part of the canopy?
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Dynon EFIS-D10A Usability |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
I have only flown my 7 around inside the garage, but... it's encoder seems
to work fine with the garmin GTX-327. The g-meter is very consistent in
letting me know that no matter how sharp I pull back on the stick, I can't
pull more than 1.0 G's.
-Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 Finishing
www.experimentalair.com
>From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon EFIS-D10A Usability
>Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 08:46:33 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
> >Same for the VSI. I have heard that it's very hard to use in flight -
> >requires one to study it vs. quick glance. Why is that and have they
>tried
> >to fix
> >it yet?
>
>It has very small numbers on the display, but does work well. For me, it's
>much easier to glance at the old steam gauge VSI. Seems that Dynon could
>make the display items optionally large or small with some future software
>rev. That might make it better. But when they get the autopilot system
>finished, it'll be a moot point - for cruise anyway! ;)
>
> >For those that are using it, besides an alternate ASI and Altimeter, what
> >other steam gauge do you recommend to buy to make life easier?
>
>I like my current arrangement - Typical 6-pack with Dynon top center and
>Garmin 196 embedded bottom center. Might go with 2.25" instruments when I
>built my F-1 (wishing) at some point in the future.
>
> >For example, is the G meter too difficult to read during acro?
>
>No, I have trained my eyes to know where to go when I'm pulling. It works
>OK and I believe I like not having the old analog G-meter in the panel.
>
>For normal flight, and even IMC, I pretty much use the Dynon for attitude
>only. still like the conventional altimeter, airspeed, VSI.
>
>Don't get me wrong though... I think the Dynon EFIS is one of the best
>homebuilder avionics developments in the last 20 years.
>
> >Finally, it's encoder. What's a good transponder that can take read it's
> >seriel output? The one I was contemplating appears setup for a parallel
> >signal.
>
>Contemplating the change to the D-10A, I am faced with putting that d@##
>encoder back in or switching transponders (MORE $$!). I believe I'd go
>with
>the Garmin GTX-327. Solid state, digital, about $1900 and Garmin. Not
>sure
>what I'll do about the xpdr situation... Probably put the encoder back in.
>
>Bryan Jones -8
>www.LoneStarSquadron.com
>Houston, Texas
>
>
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 15
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| Subject: | Dynon EFIS-D10A Usability |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut@fresnosheriff.org>
Ross,
Chuck
* oh please Do Not Archive this dribble.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ross
Schlotthauer
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon EFIS-D10A Usability
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
I have only flown my 7 around inside the garage, but... it's encoder seems
to work fine with the garmin GTX-327. The g-meter is very consistent in
letting me know that no matter how sharp I pull back on the stick, I can't
pull more than 1.0 G's.
-Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 Finishing
www.experimentalair.com
>From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon EFIS-D10A Usability
>Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2004 08:46:33 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
> >Same for the VSI. I have heard that it's very hard to use in flight -
> >requires one to study it vs. quick glance. Why is that and have they
>tried
> >to fix
> >it yet?
>
>It has very small numbers on the display, but does work well. For me, it's
>much easier to glance at the old steam gauge VSI. Seems that Dynon could
>make the display items optionally large or small with some future software
>rev. That might make it better. But when they get the autopilot system
>finished, it'll be a moot point - for cruise anyway! ;)
>
> >For those that are using it, besides an alternate ASI and Altimeter, what
> >other steam gauge do you recommend to buy to make life easier?
>
>I like my current arrangement - Typical 6-pack with Dynon top center and
>Garmin 196 embedded bottom center. Might go with 2.25" instruments when I
>built my F-1 (wishing) at some point in the future.
>
> >For example, is the G meter too difficult to read during acro?
>
>No, I have trained my eyes to know where to go when I'm pulling. It works
>OK and I believe I like not having the old analog G-meter in the panel.
>
>For normal flight, and even IMC, I pretty much use the Dynon for attitude
>only. still like the conventional altimeter, airspeed, VSI.
>
>Don't get me wrong though... I think the Dynon EFIS is one of the best
>homebuilder avionics developments in the last 20 years.
>
> >Finally, it's encoder. What's a good transponder that can take read it's
> >seriel output? The one I was contemplating appears setup for a parallel
> >signal.
>
>Contemplating the change to the D-10A, I am faced with putting that d@##
>encoder back in or switching transponders (MORE $$!). I believe I'd go
>with
>the Garmin GTX-327. Solid state, digital, about $1900 and Garmin. Not
>sure
>what I'll do about the xpdr situation... Probably put the encoder back in.
>
>Bryan Jones -8
>www.LoneStarSquadron.com
>Houston, Texas
>
>
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling mounting without prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Hi Marty:
On my 6A the distance from the front of the teeth on the ring gear to the
rear edge of the backing plate for the spinner is 3 and 1/32 inches . This
is a Aero Sport 0360 with a Hartzell HC=C2YK-1BF/F7666A-4. This gives me
about 3/16 gap.The backing plate is from a 1998 finishing kit.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cowling mounting without prop
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
>
> Listers:
> I have some instructions for mounting my cowling without having a prop in
> hand. I would like to set up my RV-6 for a C/S Hartzell and wanted to know
> from someone that has mounted the cowling in this fashion, what the
correct
> spacing is from the crankshaft starting ring to the back of the spinner.
I
> believe it is 2.25". Anyone have some advice on this?
> Marty in Brentwood TN
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Jeff Rose Electroair web site? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
TRY THIS LINK
http://www.fly-gbi.com/EIS.htm
Dale Mitchell
--- Ned Thomas <923te@cox.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ned Thomas"
> <923te@cox.net>
>
> Anyone know of a link to information on Jeff Rose
> Electroair electronic
> ignition?
> Thanks,
> Ned
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 18
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| Subject: | Insurance Requirement Change |
0.3 FROM_HAS_MIXED_NUMS From: contains numbers mixed in with letters
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
I was just informed by Nation Air that under the Van Guard program, when
writing on Phoenix Aviation Underwriters, that pilots 70 years of age or
older are now required by the underwriter to have an ANNUAL MEDICAL
examination... class 3 for private pilot...even though FAA only requires the
exam every TWO years.
The agent suggested that the annual exam isn't required under the EAA
program for the same coverage, but having just checked for another pilot
that the rate would be $350 more than Phoenix wants.
Any suggestions short of selling the plane?
John at Salida, CO
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance Requirement Change |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV9 <rv9@charter.net>
Hello John,
It looks to me like you have at least three choices
besides selling the plane.
1. Pay the extra $350 dollars/year for coverage.
2. Take the yearly medical exam.
3. Fly without insurance.
They are listed in my personal order of preference.
Steve Mottin
RV-9A Fuselage
N609RV (Reserved)
Granbury, Texas
Thursday, June 24, 2004, 2:52:31 PM, you wrote:
-->> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
J> I was just informed by Nation Air that under the Van Guard program, when
J> writing on Phoenix Aviation Underwriters, that pilots 70 years of age or
J> older are now required by the underwriter to have an ANNUAL MEDICAL
J> examination... class 3 for private pilot...even though FAA only requires the
J> exam every TWO years.
J> The agent suggested that the annual exam isn't required under the EAA
J> program for the same coverage, but having just checked for another pilot
J> that the rate would be $350 more than Phoenix wants.
J> Any suggestions short of selling the plane?
J> John at Salida, CO
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance Requirement Change |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior" <rv7@b4.ca>
On 15:59 31/12/1969 "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
> The agent suggested that the annual exam isn't required under the EAA
> program for the same coverage, but having just checked for another pilot
> that the rate would be $350 more than Phoenix wants.
>
> Any suggestions short of selling the plane?
One thing comes to mind: get a medical every year.
Living in Canada, and being under 45, I only need a medical every *five*
years to meet Transport Canada requirements for my PPL. But if I want to
fly into the US, I have to get one every *two* years, because the FAA
doesn't recognize medical periods longer than 2 years. Yes, it's annoying.
But really, it's not that big a deal. I just tell myself that if there is
something medically wrong with me, that it's best to catch it sooner rather
than later.
Insurance companies are always going to be looking for ways to reduce
costs. Phoenix has just decided that this will be one way they reduce
their costs this year, by trying to find pilots with medical problems one
year earlier than the FAA would.
So, compare the cost of the extra medical to the $350 more it would cost to
go elsewhere, and take the cheaper of the two options (and it's probably
still Phoenix). Really, there isn't much other choice, unless you would
rather make a point of switching to EAA's insurance, and paying more, just
on principle.
-Rob
Message 21
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| Subject: | Airplanes on the cheap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
The EAA Homebuilt Council wants to showcase at AirVenture recently built
experimentals that were built for $10,000, $20,000 and $30,000. If you
know of anyone who has built an airplane that fits one of these
categories who would like to be in the spotlight there and in a future
issue of Sport Aviation, have them contact Wally Anderson at
WALLYANDER@earthlink.net.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Airplanes on the cheap |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
What a great angle. I don't think most people realize that they can build a fly
a good airplane for less than what they paid for their SUV.
If $35,000 qualifies, I'm in.
Ross Mickey <rmickey@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey"
The EAA Homebuilt Council wants to showcase at AirVenture recently built
experimentals that were built for $10,000, $20,000 and $30,000. If you
know of anyone who has built an airplane that fits one of these
categories who would like to be in the spotlight there and in a future
issue of Sport Aviation, have them contact Wally Anderson at
WALLYANDER@earthlink.net.
tion
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 23
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| Subject: | Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
List, I have a rear (aft) facing sump for a Lycoming I0-320 BIA in perfect condition
if anyone is interested. (cheap)
Vic
505-622-8513
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: RV List Spinner |
--> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
Weasel,
You can get one from George Ordorff (his contact info is in the yeller pages).
When I got mine, it was $200 and comes uncut (i.e. you have to make the cutouts
for the blades of whatever prop you're using). It's exactly the same shape
as the fiberglass spinner that Vans includes in the kits. You use the spinner
bulkheads from Vans.
One comment...while the spinner comes "polished", it's not polished very well...it
looks decent from 10 ft away but you can still see grooves up close that should
have been worked smooth before polishing. That's a shame because I plan
to take sandpaper to it and undo the polishing to get out the grooves and then
work back up the a shiny finish. That said, for $200 it's not a bad deal (the
only other metal spinner on the market that I'm aware of for RV's is the Sensenich
one which comes unpolished and is over $400 if I recall correctly).
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D fuselage paint...polished Ordorff spinner still sitting on the shelf
where it's been for a couple years...
Subject: RV-List: RV List Spinner
From: smoothweasel@juno.com
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
Hey do any of you have or know where I can get a 13" Polished Alum.
Spinner for a O-320 with a Hartzell HCYL prop hub.
Phone numbers are ideal however if you send a web link I will try to find
somewhere that I can vew it.
Weasel Graber
-4 (38.5hr of super fun)
Brooksville MS
662 574 5210
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6/-7 Tip-up canopy side frame WD-725 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Gus, RV-6 Dwg 22, the long drawing showing full length side view, also has a
"top view curve profile for upper fuselage longeron, full size". If you
will check at Station 55 3/4, which is where the fwd face of F-631A canopy
frame lies, and remember that the fwd end of the angle welded onto the aft
end of WD-725 side frame is 2 inches fwd of station 55 3/4, you can clearly
see that the longeron is, for all practical purposes, parallel to the
longitudinal axis of the RV-6. It is true that the fuselage "appears" - to
the naked eye - to be getting fatter for just a bit in front of Sta 55 34 -
but it is an optical illusion. Dwg 22 gives the facts, and that drawing
agrees with what I see, as described below.
I measured the angle of between the aft end of angle on frame and the welded
on side frame and it is 92 degrees, i.e., 2 degrees (2.2 to be precise) off
of perpendicular - this is causing the aft face of the aft angle to NOT be
flush with the F-631A rear frame, as reported in my original e-mail below.
With reference to your statement in your reply below that it "should be a
couple of degrees off 90 because as you go forward from the 631 the fuse is
getting wider", and your ref to RV-6 Dwgs 51 & 37, those drawings do look
that way (only about 1 degree) but neither is authoritative or accurate,
when compared to Dwg 22 cited above.
I suggest you take a machinist's square and a piece of 3 inch long aluminum
stock (1/8 or more thick) that is truly rectangular or square (has 90 degree
angles) that is 2 or 3 or more inches wide, go to an RV-6 with the tip-up
canopy raised out of the way, lay the stock on canopy deck with aft edge
against roll bar, with outbd edge near o'bd edge of longeron, and hold a
machinist square against the front face of stock and see if the other side
of the square doesn't look exactly parallel to the longeron. It does on my
plane.
If you agree that Dwg 22 is correct, and you verify as suggested in
preceding paragraph, I would again ask you to have the production jigs
corrected to make the side frame and its aft angle "perpendicular" at the
outside aft corner.
For the RV-list, RV-6 and RV-7 builders, have you noticed that the aft face
of "the angle at aft end of side frame" does not lay flush (parallel) to aft
canopy frame F-631A? I hope other builders will comment, so as either to
correct me, or to help Van's see that there is an opportunity to make life
easier for future builders.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gus Funnell" <gusf@vansaircraft.com>
Subject: Re: RV-7 and -6 Tip-up's canopy side frame WD-725
> It seems odd that your 631 is perpendicular to the longeron, it
> should be a couple of degrees off 90 because as you go forward
> from the 631 the fuse is getting wider, and narrower as you go
> back. That is the reason the WD-725Bs are not welded at 90 deg.
> to the 725As outboard surface.
>
> I suspect either your fuselage is not getting wider forward of the
> 605 bulkhead or the 631 roll bar is slightly twisted so its face is
> perpendicular to the longeron. You can see on dwg 51 or 37 or
> some others what the fuse shape should be. You could fix the part
> as you describe to work with your fuse.
>
> Vans
>
> On 23 Jun 04, at 15:10, David Carter wrote:
>
> > Dear Van's,
> >
> > Both my WD-725s (L & R) had the angle welded on aft end at less than
> > 90 degrees to the side piece, which makes entire side frame stick
> > outbd of longeron/side of fuselage IF you hold the angle flush to the
> > F-631. I put right side on first and made a wedge shim to fill gap of
> > rivet in top outbd corner of the aft angle. Now I'm working on pilot
> > side frame, noticed the same anomally, and took more time to examine
> > it - put my shop square up to aft side of frame and can see that aft
> > angle has about 1/8" gap from other arm of square at outbd side. .. .
> > . . - I put the square on my F-631 and it is perpendicular to
> > longeron, as I believe the canopy side frame's angle should be. .. . .
> > . - These parts came in my April 2004 Finish Kit and so the WD-725
> > nomenclature indicates this is a part common to the RV-7. .. . . . -
> > Will you please correct your production jigs to eliminate this small
> > error? This should be easy to correct, then all your thousands of
> > FUTURE RV-7 builders will not have this small problem to deal with.
> >
> > I'm going to use a 3" cutoff wheel, cut the fore-aft weld, bend the
> > weld of aft flange of angle-to-side to get 90 degrees, and then rivet
> > (in lieu of weld) the horizontal flange of angle back onto lower
> > flange of side piece.
> >
> > Your comments/feed back/response to this e-mail would be greatly
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Respectfully,
> >
> > David Carter
> > 409-722-7259
> > Bldr 60314
Message 26
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| Subject: | Airplanes on the cheap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
Wally is the one who will be deciding who is in. I would encourage you
to email him with your info.
Ross
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
What a great angle. I don't think most people realize that they can
build a fly a good airplane for less than what they paid for their SUV.
If $35,000 qualifies, I'm in.
Ross Mickey <rmickey@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey"
The EAA Homebuilt Council wants to showcase at AirVenture recently built
experimentals that were built for $10,000, $20,000 and $30,000. If you
know of anyone who has built an airplane that fits one of these
categories who would like to be in the spotlight there and in a future
issue of Sport Aviation, have them contact Wally Anderson at
WALLYANDER@earthlink.net.
tion
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA |
--> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportpilot@moneypit.com>
does this work on the RV 9A ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
>
> List, I have a rear (aft) facing sump for a Lycoming I0-320 BIA in
perfect condition if anyone is interested. (cheap)
>
> Vic
>
> 505-622-8513
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance Requirement Change |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
There is a 4th option (my 1st choice): sit down, write that 'agent
designation' letter & go see another agent.
Maybe the agent is correct & you're just out of luck. Maybe he/she isn't
right & you have other options with other underwriters. All it will cost
you is your time to go elsewhere & ask.
In my opinion, we should do everything we can to drag a/c insurance
underwriters kicking & screaming back into the free market.
Anybody out there using AOPA's underwriter who has gone through this?
Charlie
RV9 wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: RV9 <rv9@charter.net>
>
>Hello John,
>
>It looks to me like you have at least three choices
>besides selling the plane.
>
>1. Pay the extra $350 dollars/year for coverage.
>2. Take the yearly medical exam.
>3. Fly without insurance.
>
>They are listed in my personal order of preference.
>
>Steve Mottin
>RV-9A Fuselage
>N609RV (Reserved)
>Granbury, Texas
>
>Thursday, June 24, 2004, 2:52:31 PM, you wrote:
>
>-->> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
>J> I was just informed by Nation Air that under the Van Guard program, when
>J> writing on Phoenix Aviation Underwriters, that pilots 70 years of age or
>J> older are now required by the underwriter to have an ANNUAL MEDICAL
>J> examination... class 3 for private pilot...even though FAA only requires the
>J> exam every TWO years.
>
>J> The agent suggested that the annual exam isn't required under the EAA
>J> program for the same coverage, but having just checked for another pilot
>J> that the rate would be $350 more than Phoenix wants.
>
>J> Any suggestions short of selling the plane?
>
>J> John at Salida, CO
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
Sorry, I don't know, maybe someone else on the list may know.
Vic
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "sportpilot" <sportpilot@moneypit.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA
> --> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportpilot@moneypit.com>
>
> does this work on the RV 9A ?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
> >
> > List, I have a rear (aft) facing sump for a Lycoming I0-320 BIA in
> perfect condition if anyone is interested. (cheap)
> >
> > Vic
> >
> > 505-622-8513
> >
> >
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
Vic: I will give you my experience with this engine. My first RV-6 I had
one of these engines that I had hopes of using to eliminate the scoop. The
sump as it comes off the Twin Comanche has a sump that has a rear boss that
comes off at 45 degrees for the fuel servo on the right side. From there
they used an additional 45 degree adapter to route the air from the right
side of the cowl. On the RV-6 there is a Horizontal bar on the engine
mount that supports the right and left gear leg. The only way to use the
sump would to make an adapter to clear the bar, as there is not enough
clearance. I talked to Van about this and he discouraged it, as a matter of
fact a builder years ago used this arrangement with a flexible duct, the
duct collapsed and he crashed. The best solution is to get a regular sump
and put the servo on the bottom center. I am using this same engine on my
present RV-6A, I think the clearance problems would be worse. these engine
are tough, but use an 18 degree engine mount.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
>
> Sorry, I don't know, maybe someone else on the list may know.
>
> Vic
>
> do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "sportpilot" <sportpilot@moneypit.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportpilot@moneypit.com>
> >
> > does this work on the RV 9A ?
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
> > >
> > > List, I have a rear (aft) facing sump for a Lycoming I0-320 BIA in
> > perfect condition if anyone is interested. (cheap)
> > >
> > > Vic
> > >
> > > 505-622-8513
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re:Insurance Requirement Change |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I am insured with AVEMCO for liability only and they haven't said anything
like that. I'm 72. I just renewed my policy.
I tried the EAA plan and they wouldn't insure me at all because I fly from an
1100' grass strip,with our RV-4. That didn't sound like a good system for
sport flyers who want to fly to home strips. My neighbor has their policy and
it would cost a bunch more to have grass strip coverage for his RV-6A.
Most of the fun little fly-ins around here are on grass strips,so the EAA
plan can go jump, as far as I'm concerned.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
Harvey, thank you for the info which is very important when I don't know
anything about rear facing sumps.
Vic
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
>
> Vic: I will give you my experience with this engine. My first RV-6 I had
> one of these engines that I had hopes of using to eliminate the scoop.
The
> sump as it comes off the Twin Comanche has a sump that has a rear boss
that
> comes off at 45 degrees for the fuel servo on the right side. From there
> they used an additional 45 degree adapter to route the air from the right
> side of the cowl. On the RV-6 there is a Horizontal bar on the engine
> mount that supports the right and left gear leg. The only way to use the
> sump would to make an adapter to clear the bar, as there is not enough
> clearance. I talked to Van about this and he discouraged it, as a matter
of
> fact a builder years ago used this arrangement with a flexible duct, the
> duct collapsed and he crashed. The best solution is to get a regular sump
> and put the servo on the bottom center. I am using this same engine on my
> present RV-6A, I think the clearance problems would be worse. these engine
> are tough, but use an 18 degree engine mount.
> Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Sorry, I don't know, maybe someone else on the list may know.
> >
> > Vic
> >
> > do not archive
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "sportpilot" <sportpilot@moneypit.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportpilot@moneypit.com>
> > >
> > > does this work on the RV 9A ?
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
> > > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: RV-List: Rear Facing Sump I0-320BIA
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
> > > >
> > > > List, I have a rear (aft) facing sump for a Lycoming I0-320 BIA in
> > > perfect condition if anyone is interested. (cheap)
> > > >
> > > > Vic
> > > >
> > > > 505-622-8513
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Upper Gear Leg Fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
Thanks for the suggestion Pat. That sounds similar to what I was thinking.
It is a little hard to visualize so if you have any pictures of the design that
would be great too.
Jeff Bertsch
Houston RV-4
RV4PatA@aol.com wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: RV4PatA@aol.com
In a message dated 6/23/04 9:41:17 PM Central Daylight Time,
noms1reqd@yahoo.com writes:
The upper gear leg fairing on our RV-4 keeps cracking and pulling loose from
its attach point.
You can rivet an aluminum angle to both sides of the inside of the fairing
and tie a loop of safety wire between them. Then put an Adel clamp around the
motor mount and run a spring down to the wire loop from the bolt in the clamp.
this has worked well on my -4.
Pat Allender
Iowa City
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