Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:02 AM - Re: canadian charts (Curt Reimer)
2. 06:17 AM - Re: Cowling mounting without prop (Emrath)
3. 06:37 AM - Re: The Annual Inspection - Powerplant; a new video (richard dudley)
4. 06:46 AM - Re: The Annual Inspection - Powerplant; a new video (Bruce Gray)
5. 07:09 AM - Building Materials For Sale (John Brick)
6. 07:16 AM - Re: The Annual Inspection - Powerplant; a new video (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
7. 07:45 AM - Re: Dynon Inatallation in Memphis area? (Ross Schlotthauer)
8. 09:08 AM - Digitrak & KLX135A (Ken Simmons)
9. 09:52 AM - Re: Digitrak & KLX135A (Laird Owens)
10. 10:18 AM - Re: Digitrak & KLX135A (Vic Jacko)
11. 10:55 AM - screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake (thomas a. sargent)
12. 11:42 AM - Re: Digitrak & KLX135A (Stein Bruch)
13. 12:15 PM - Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake (Brian Kraut)
14. 12:42 PM - Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake (Richard E. Tasker)
15. 02:14 PM - Ignition problem (Dave Hyde)
16. 03:18 PM - RV-List Bird Rash (smoothweasel@juno.com)
17. 03:41 PM - Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake (cgalley)
18. 03:52 PM - Re: RV-List Bird Rash (Brian Kraut)
19. 04:01 PM - Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake (cgalley)
20. 04:12 PM - Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake (MMcs139808@aol.com)
21. 04:19 PM - how tight - threaded fittings in fuel tank? (Jerry Howell)
22. 04:46 PM - Re: how tight - threaded fittings in fuel tank? (Ron Walker)
23. 05:13 PM - Re: RV-List Bird Rash (Dick Jordan)
24. 07:41 PM - Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake (thomas a. sargent)
25. 08:16 PM - Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake (cgalley)
26. 08:41 PM - Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake (Richard E. Tasker)
27. 10:25 PM - rocket scientists (Wheeler North)
28. 10:34 PM - water vs oil (Wheeler North)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: canadian charts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca>
> Don't pay full list price ($21 ?) to Nav-Canada when Calgary Pilot Supply
> has VNC & WAC charts at $14.89 Cdn. Walk in price is higher and best price
> is internet order http://www.cyberpilotshop.com/. If you feel uneasy about
> giving credit card number on internet, order on internet and then phone in
> your credit card number. Note Calgary Pilot Supply has higher price on
some
> items such as Canada Flight Supplement than some others.
Yes, I see the local retail price I paid was a rip off. Oh well, I needed
them on short notice and couldn't wait for the mail. Lesson learned.
thanks,
Curt
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling mounting without prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
Thanks again Eustace. I am starting to understand this better, but I'm
having trouble understanding why the 1/4" spacer and washer as shown on
drawing C4, when mounted on the face of the backing plate will affect the
distance from the starting ring crank flange to the back of the backing
plate. Can you help me to understand?
Marty in Brentwood TN
Time: 04:50:39 PM PST US
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cowling mounting without prop
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Hi Marty:
The measurement on my 6A from the face of the starting ring at the crank
flange to the back of the backing plate is 2 and 1/32 inches. The backing
plate has a doubter on the back and this measurement is from the face of the
ring gear to the doubter. The backing plate for the spinner is mounted to
the prop with a washer and a 1/4 inch spacer between it and the prop. Some
may leave this washer out so that would add the width of the washer to my
measurement.
Hope this is what you are looking for.
Eustace
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: The Annual Inspection - Powerplant; a new video |
--> RV-List message posted by: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Andy,
Could you tell us the price of the new video/DVD?
Thanks.
RHDudley
Aircraft Technical Book Company wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
>
>I don't normally spam on this list, but I've been working on this video for
>about a year, its my first one, and I'm kinda proud of it. So here goes:
>
>
>THE ANNUAL INSPECTION - POWERPLANT 55 minutes
> Follow Westwood College of Aviation A&P instructors Tim Guerrera and
>Vaughn Dowell through a step by step demonstration of an annual inspection
>of the powerplant section of a Lycoming 0-360. This video explains every
>step of the process from an initial AD search to the final log entries.
>Each procedure is detailed including compression check, ignition timing,
>spark plug service, exhaust pressure check, oil change, fuel system,
>propeller, electrical system, etc..... , showing the proper techniques
>along with plenty of professional hints and tips. A final segment details
>safety wiring techniques as used throughout the powerplant section.
> Most of this video was filmed at Westwood College in Denver using a
>Piper Archer, however a few segments were done locally in Granby, CO with my
>RV-6A and hangarmate Dave Cook's RV-6.
>
>available now in DVD and VHS
>from Builder's Bookstore
>http://www.buildersbooks.com/annual_inspection_powerplant.htm
>800 780-4115
>
>...and to sweeten up the spam, mention "Matronics" when you order and get
>25% off through the end of June.
>
>Thanks,
>Andy
>RV-6A N-5060 flying
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | The Annual Inspection - Powerplant; a new video |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Follow the link. It lists a price of $34.95.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of richard dudley
Subject: Re: RV-List: The Annual Inspection - Powerplant; a new video
--> RV-List message posted by: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Andy,
Could you tell us the price of the new video/DVD?
Thanks.
RHDudley
Aircraft Technical Book Company wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
<winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
>
>I don't normally spam on this list, but I've been working on this video
for
>about a year, its my first one, and I'm kinda proud of it. So here
goes:
>
>
>THE ANNUAL INSPECTION - POWERPLANT 55 minutes
> Follow Westwood College of Aviation A&P instructors Tim Guerrera
and
>Vaughn Dowell through a step by step demonstration of an annual
inspection
>of the powerplant section of a Lycoming 0-360. This video explains
every
>step of the process from an initial AD search to the final log entries.
>Each procedure is detailed including compression check, ignition
timing,
>spark plug service, exhaust pressure check, oil change, fuel system,
>propeller, electrical system, etc..... , showing the proper techniques
>along with plenty of professional hints and tips. A final segment
details
>safety wiring techniques as used throughout the powerplant section.
> Most of this video was filmed at Westwood College in Denver using
a
>Piper Archer, however a few segments were done locally in Granby, CO
with my
>RV-6A and hangarmate Dave Cook's RV-6.
>
>available now in DVD and VHS
>from Builder's Bookstore
>http://www.buildersbooks.com/annual_inspection_powerplant.htm
>800 780-4115
>
>...and to sweeten up the spam, mention "Matronics" when you order and
get
>25% off through the end of June.
>
>Thanks,
>Andy
>RV-6A N-5060 flying
>
>
>
>
==
==
==
==
Message 5
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| Subject: | Building Materials For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Brick" <jbrick@wolfenet.com>
Contact Dana Burt in Tacoma, mailto:dburt@nventure.com
<mailto:dburt@nventure.com> 253-474-4467
He will give a good discount if you buy the whole package
List of aluminum, clecos, and rivets
Misc
1 36 solid round bar, 6061-T6
$14.00
Tube
4 1x2&1/2x9 .049 streamlined tube
$158.00
4 1x2&1/2x19 .049 streamlined tube
$20.00
5 2x12 .058
$427.00
5 1&7/8x 12 .058
$410.00
5 1x12 .058
$250.00
2 x12 .058 square tube
$80.00
1 7/8x12 .058
$41.00
Angle
1 2x24x1/8
$64.80
1 1&1/4x24x1/8
$54.00
3 x24x1/8
$106.56
1 1x126&1/2x1/8
$13.00
1 1x96&1/4x1/8
$10.00
2 3/4x12x1/8
$34.00
Sheet
2 .025x12 6061 T6
$168.80
1 .050 x11 6061 T6
$125.00
1 .090x2x4 6061 T6
$31.50 Aluminum Total
$2007.66
Clecos
50 #3s
$12.50
100 #4s
$25.00
50 #5s
$12.50
Solid rivets
3-3, 3-4, 3-7 flush approx 1lb
$25.00
4-10 on down 1lb+
$13.00
5-6 1lb 5-9 1lb
$25.00
Cherry rivets
290 4-3
$110.00
100 4-2
$35.00
12 5-2
$5.40
Books
(All in like new condition)
Restoring and Flying a Sport Plane on a Budget. 1985 Signed. $3.00
Pazmanys Light Plane Construction and Light Airplane Design $5.00
Wanttajas Kitplane Construction
$10.00
Elements Of Sport Airplane Design For The Homebuilder
$5.00
Bingelis Firewall Forward
$18.00
Bingelis on Engines
$18.00
Bingelis Sport Plane Builder
$18.00
Bingelis Sportplane Construction Techniques
$18.00
Or, all four Bingelis for $50.00
Message 6
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|
| Subject: | Re: The Annual Inspection - Powerplant; a new video |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Rich,
The regular price is going to be $34.95 in either DVD or VHS. But we having
an introductory price for RV-listers till the end of June at 25% off, or
$26.20.
Andy
>
> Andy,
> Could you tell us the price of the new video/DVD?
>
> Thanks.
>
> RHDudley
>
> Aircraft Technical Book Company wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
<winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
> >
> >I don't normally spam on this list, but I've been working on this video
for
> >about a year, its my first one, and I'm kinda proud of it. So here goes:
> >
> >
> >THE ANNUAL INSPECTION - POWERPLANT 55 minutes
> > Follow Westwood College of Aviation A&P instructors Tim Guerrera and
> >Vaughn Dowell through a step by step demonstration of an annual
inspection
> >of the powerplant section of a Lycoming 0-360. This video explains every
> >step of the process from an initial AD search to the final log entries.
> >Each procedure is detailed including compression check, ignition timing,
> >spark plug service, exhaust pressure check, oil change, fuel system,
> >propeller, electrical system, etc..... , showing the proper techniques
> >along with plenty of professional hints and tips. A final segment
details
> >safety wiring techniques as used throughout the powerplant section.
> > Most of this video was filmed at Westwood College in Denver using a
> >Piper Archer, however a few segments were done locally in Granby, CO with
my
> >RV-6A and hangarmate Dave Cook's RV-6.
> >
> >available now in DVD and VHS
> >from Builder's Bookstore
> >http://www.buildersbooks.com/annual_inspection_powerplant.htm
> >800 780-4115
> >
> >...and to sweeten up the spam, mention "Matronics" when you order and get
> >25% off through the end of June.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Andy
> >RV-6A N-5060 flying
> >
>
do not archive
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Dynon Inatallation in Memphis area? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Schlotthauer" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
Bill,
It is truly a blessed life you live.
-Ross
Ross Schlotthauer
www.experimentalair.com
Do Not Archive
>From: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>, rv-list@matronics.com,
>rv-8@yahoogroups.com, RV10@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RV-List: Dynon Inatallation in Memphis area?
>Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 07:48:22 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
>I just got an email from my YAK-52 buddy who knows a guy with a CJ-6A who
>is
>looking to install a Dynon and was looking for anyone with one already
>flying in the Memphis area...
>
>If you can help let me know and I will get you in contact!
>
>Thanks!
>
>-Bill
>
>PS... I got a ride in a CJ a couple weeks ago! YAAA HAAAA!!!
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Digitrak & KLX135A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
I got a good deal on a Bendix/King 135A from a lister a while back. I also recently
bought a Digitrak from another lister again for a good deal. I guess the
idea of a good deal got in the way of checking to see if these two were compatible.
As far as I can tell, they are not. The 135A does put out an RS-232 signal,
but doesn't appear to be a NMEA-0183 signal that the Digitrak needs. It supposedly
works with an Airtex ELT and a couple of Argus moving maps.
I had been considering selling the KLX135A and getting a GNC250XL. I don't have
a copy of the GNC250XL installation manual, but from what I've seen in the archives
and on Garmin's website it would definitely be compatible with the Digitrak.
Any thoughts? Anyone looking for a good used KLX135A so I don't have to ebay it?
As you might expect the best price I found for the GNC250XL was from John Stark.
Thanks.
Ken
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Digitrak & KLX135A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
I know the 250XL drives the DigiTrak just fine. That's the combination
I had before I upgraded to a 430. One of my old posts in the archives
mentions which pin to use on the 250XL.
Laird RV-6
SoCal
On Jun 26, 2004, at 9:07 AM, Ken Simmons wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>
> I got a good deal on a Bendix/King 135A from a lister a while back. I
> also recently bought a Digitrak from another lister again for a good
> deal. I guess the idea of a good deal got in the way of checking to
> see if these two were compatible. As far as I can tell, they are not.
> The 135A does put out an RS-232 signal, but doesn't appear to be a
> NMEA-0183 signal that the Digitrak needs. It supposedly works with an
> Airtex ELT and a couple of Argus moving maps.
>
> I had been considering selling the KLX135A and getting a GNC250XL. I
> don't have a copy of the GNC250XL installation manual, but from what
> I've seen in the archives and on Garmin's website it would definitely
> be compatible with the Digitrak.
>
> Any thoughts? Anyone looking for a good used KLX135A so I don't have
> to ebay it? As you might expect the best price I found for the
> GNC250XL was from John Stark.
>
> Thanks.
> Ken
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Digitrak & KLX135A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
Ken, what are you asking for the uses KLX 135A?
Vic
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
Subject: RV-List: Digitrak & KLX135A
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>
> I got a good deal on a Bendix/King 135A from a lister a while back. I also
recently bought a Digitrak from another lister again for a good deal. I
guess the idea of a good deal got in the way of checking to see if these two
were compatible. As far as I can tell, they are not. The 135A does put out
an RS-232 signal, but doesn't appear to be a NMEA-0183 signal that the
Digitrak needs. It supposedly works with an Airtex ELT and a couple of Argus
moving maps.
>
> I had been considering selling the KLX135A and getting a GNC250XL. I don't
have a copy of the GNC250XL installation manual, but from what I've seen in
the archives and on Garmin's website it would definitely be compatible with
the Digitrak.
>
> Any thoughts? Anyone looking for a good used KLX135A so I don't have to
ebay it? As you might expect the best price I found for the GNC250XL was
from John Stark.
>
> Thanks.
> Ken
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
I started hooking up the brake line to the brakes today and tried to
screw the AN elbow fitting into the brake itself. After less than a
full turn it abruptly becomes pretty hard to screw in (using fingers
With a wrench I'm sure I can crank it a lot further). I generally don't
like to push the fittings more than about 1 turn past that point, but
obviously I want more than 2 full threads engaged. How many turns does
a fitting like this need to get in order to be adequately engaged?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
Message 12
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| Subject: | Digitrak & KLX135A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Ken,
Are you sure it won't work?? When looking at the pinouts for the KLX135A,
on connector P1, there are two pins labeled "RS-232IN (pin J)" & "RS-232OUT
(pin K)". I would think those should suffice for the Digitrak.....
Also, the GNC250XL pinout also shows an RS-232 in and RS-232 out (Pins 17 &
24 respectively).
Anyway, just going off the most current pinouts from my big book. When
you're ready, we can build you a digitrak harness for $75.00!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Simmons
Subject: RV-List: Digitrak & KLX135A
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
I got a good deal on a Bendix/King 135A from a lister a while back. I also
recently bought a Digitrak from another lister again for a good deal. I
guess the idea of a good deal got in the way of checking to see if these two
were compatible. As far as I can tell, they are not. The 135A does put out
an RS-232 signal, but doesn't appear to be a NMEA-0183 signal that the
Digitrak needs. It supposedly works with an Airtex ELT and a couple of Argus
moving maps.
I had been considering selling the KLX135A and getting a GNC250XL. I don't
have a copy of the GNC250XL installation manual, but from what I've seen in
the archives and on Garmin's website it would definitely be compatible with
the Digitrak.
Any thoughts? Anyone looking for a good used KLX135A so I don't have to ebay
it? As you might expect the best price I found for the GNC250XL was from
John Stark.
Thanks.
Ken
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 13
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| Subject: | screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
And how many licks does it take to get to the center of a Tootsi Pop?
Sorry, I couldn't resist.
I had a similar situation on the brakes on my KR-2. After putting a wrench
to it I got about four more threads without excessively tightening it which
is more than I expected after hand tightening. Sometimes pipe threads are
just funny that way.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of thomas a.
sargent
Subject: RV-List: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake
How many turns does
a fitting like this need to get in order to be adequately engaged?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Below is the standard for pipe threads. If you can only get the fitting
to go in one turn by hand, something is wrong. The brake lines see a
good bit of pressure so you do want a reasonable number of threads
engaged, although you really do not need as many as the specification
which is specified for pressures up to 10,000 psi.. Have you tried a
different AN fitting to see if there is something wrong with the
fitting? Does this happen with both brakes?
American Standard Taper Pipe Threads Nominal size Actual OD Threads
per inch Length of engagement
(tightened by hand) Hand tight turns Wrench makeup turns
Length of
effective thread
1 ?_8 0.405 27 0.180 4 2 0.260
0.540 18 0.200 4 3 0.401
3 ?_8 0.675 18 0.240 4 3 0.408
0.840 14 0.320 4 3 0.534
1.050 14 0.340 4 3 0.546
Dick Tasker
thomas a. sargent wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
>I started hooking up the brake line to the brakes today and tried to
>screw the AN elbow fitting into the brake itself. After less than a
>full turn it abruptly becomes pretty hard to screw in (using fingers
>With a wrench I'm sure I can crank it a lot further). I generally don't
>like to push the fittings more than about 1 turn past that point, but
>obviously I want more than 2 full threads engaged. How many turns does
>a fitting like this need to get in order to be adequately engaged?
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Ignition problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Hyde" <nauga@brick.net>
I have what I think is an ignition problem
that's got me baffled. My #3 cylinder has
always run a little cold on the right mag only.
I fixed what I thought was an intake leak 20
hours ago and that helped, or at least seemed
like it, but today it became clear that #3
was not firing on the right mag. To make a very
long story a little shorter, the problem travels
with the ignition lead. If I switch top and bottom
leads on #3, it still goes cold on the right mag,
which tells me that it's not the plug. The harness
checks fine on a lead tester, and when I finally
broke down and pulled the mag I was able to 'spark out'
all four leads against the mag case. I was expecting
either the #3 lead would be bad or it wouldn't
spark, but it looks like that's not the case.
Anybody ever see anything like this? Anyone got
any suggestions?
The engine is an O-320D with Slick mags in an RV-4.
The engine, airplane, and mags all have about 24 hours
on them (STOH in the case of the engine). The mags,
harness, and plugs are about 6 months old.
Dave Hyde
RV-4 in flight test, EAA tech counselor
Message 16
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| Subject: | RV-List Bird Rash |
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
Hey guys, I intercepted the path of a innocent bystander (some kind of
a bird) at aprox. 180kn. today. It only made a little click noise but
looking to the left revealed a seen that I didn't wan't to see. I now
have a really nice or maybe not so nice dent on the leading edge of the
wing and it isn't where I would put a landing light.
Have anyone of you had experience doing this kind of repair? Did
you replace the whole skin or can I cut out the dent, flute the edge and
then make a new piece to fit the cut out?
The dent is contained between two ribs.
Weasel Graber
-4 (39hr.....was happy, now feelin bad)
Brooksville MS
662 574 5210
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Sounds like you have it cross-threaded. Check the fitting and B-nut threads
carefully.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> I started hooking up the brake line to the brakes today and tried to
> screw the AN elbow fitting into the brake itself. After less than a
> full turn it abruptly becomes pretty hard to screw in (using fingers
> With a wrench I'm sure I can crank it a lot further). I generally don't
> like to push the fittings more than about 1 turn past that point, but
> obviously I want more than 2 full threads engaged. How many turns does
> a fitting like this need to get in order to be adequately engaged?
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | RV-List Bird Rash |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
The good news is that a bird strike is a once in a lifetime experience. You
have now probably been saved from the chance of one going through your
windshield sometime later in life.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
smoothweasel@juno.com
Subject: RV-List: RV-List Bird Rash
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
Hey guys, I intercepted the path of a innocent bystander (some kind of
a bird) at aprox. 180kn. today. It only made a little click noise but
looking to the left revealed a seen that I didn't wan't to see. I now
have a really nice or maybe not so nice dent on the leading edge of the
wing and it isn't where I would put a landing light.
Have anyone of you had experience doing this kind of repair? Did
you replace the whole skin or can I cut out the dent, flute the edge and
then make a new piece to fit the cut out?
The dent is contained between two ribs.
Weasel Graber
-4 (39hr.....was happy, now feelin bad)
Brooksville MS
662 574 5210
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
You also may have damaged threads as it took a fitting and easily turned is
about 4 turn by hand. The fitting then had no play.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake
> --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> Sounds like you have it cross-threaded. Check the fitting and B-nut
threads
> carefully.
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> Safety Programs Editor - TC
> EAA Sport Pilot
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent"
<sarg314@earthlink.net>
> >
> > I started hooking up the brake line to the brakes today and tried to
> > screw the AN elbow fitting into the brake itself. After less than a
> > full turn it abruptly becomes pretty hard to screw in (using fingers
> > With a wrench I'm sure I can crank it a lot further). I generally don't
> > like to push the fittings more than about 1 turn past that point, but
> > obviously I want more than 2 full threads engaged. How many turns does
> > a fitting like this need to get in order to be adequately engaged?
> > --
> > Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
> >
> >
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: MMcs139808@aol.com
Tom
I found myself in a similar situation and after ensuring that the threads
were not crossed I used a tap to increase the thread depth. This not the first
time I have to do this, another occassion that comes to mind was on the fuel
tank drains.
Eugene
Message 21
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| Subject: | how tight - threaded fittings in fuel tank? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Howell <jehowell@tampabay.rr.com>
Listers,
Haven't found an answer to this one in the archives. I'm beginning to
wrap up my first fuel tank. Since, ideally, it won't be opened again,
I want to ensure that I don't leave anything to chance. So, how tight
should the threaded fittings be for the vent line? Is there a standard
torque? If so, how is it verified?
Thanks!,
Jerry
RV-7A
Left Wing, Fuel tank sealing.....
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: how tight - threaded fittings in fuel tank? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
"Since, ideally, it won't be opened again"
Sorry ... thats funny to me ;o)
I've opened mine twice so far (tank cover plate) ... once was my doing,
other was unforseen. My piece of wisdom is get some hex head screws for the
fuel tank cover - once your wings are mounted, its a real pain to take those
taking covers off with a short philips driver! The vent fitting will be just
fine since its only venting fumes.
Ron - first engine start today and cant wait for first flight!!!!!
http://home.earthlink.net/~n706lg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Howell" <jehowell@tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: how tight - threaded fittings in fuel tank?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Howell <jehowell@tampabay.rr.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> Haven't found an answer to this one in the archives. I'm beginning to
> wrap up my first fuel tank. Since, ideally, it won't be opened again,
> I want to ensure that I don't leave anything to chance. So, how tight
> should the threaded fittings be for the vent line? Is there a standard
> torque? If so, how is it verified?
>
> Thanks!,
> Jerry
> RV-7A
> Left Wing, Fuel tank sealing.....
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Bird Rash |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick Jordan" <mkejrj@erols.com>
Weasel,
My finished wing fell from a storage stand resulting in a 3" dent on the
leading edge. After an unsuccessful try to push the dent out from the inside
using a wood die and a small jack I thought I might seek assistance from a
pro in the automotive field. I found that most auto repair shops are not
really into dent removal any more. They either replace the damaged panel in
toto or rough out the dent and fill with Bondo. I hoped to avoid this
approach.
I did find a pro in a local Antique Auto restoration shop who was quite
competent in metal fabrication and repair and on aluminum and steel. He
removed my dent in 15 minutes with a body hammer and a dolly. You can not
tell, even under close examination, that the leading edge was damaged.
My repair was possible in that the location of the damage was accessible
to the pro so he could hold the dolly on the inside while relieving the
stress crease on the outside with light taps.
In short see if you can find a pro in a reputable Antique auto shop.
Good luck !
Dick Jordan
RV8A Finishing
N888BZ-Reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: <smoothweasel@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-List Bird Rash
> --> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
>
> Hey guys, I intercepted the path of a innocent bystander (some kind of
> a bird) at aprox. 180kn. today. It only made a little click noise but
> looking to the left revealed a seen that I didn't wan't to see. I now
> have a really nice or maybe not so nice dent on the leading edge of the
> wing and it isn't where I would put a landing light.
> Have anyone of you had experience doing this kind of repair? Did
> you replace the whole skin or can I cut out the dent, flute the edge and
> then make a new piece to fit the cut out?
>
> The dent is contained between two ribs.
>
> Weasel Graber
> -4 (39hr.....was happy, now feelin bad)
> Brooksville MS
> 662 574 5210
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
The threads are fine in both the brakes and the AN fitting. It's just
clear that to get it to go further it's going to take some force and I
don't want to push it any further than I have to. So, my question is,
is there a specification for a minimum number of threads that should be
engaged in these AN fittings?
cgalley wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> You also may have damaged threads as it took a fitting and easily turned is
> about 4 turn by hand. The fitting then had no play.
>
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I'm sorry. I missed the fact that you were screwing the pipe thread end into
a casting. As someone else pointed out, you may have to tap a little deeper
BUT before you do, get some pipe thread dope with Teflon powder. The will
make it easier to turn in. Since it is an elbow, "clocking" to get the
tubing end point the correct direction is the important thing. It is also
important to never go beyond the position as backing up will make it leak.
One of the nicest pipe joint compounds is PST by Loctite. It has the Teflon
powder for ease of tightening and some "crazy glue" that sets up to hold the
"clocking" and not leak even if it isn't real tight. Some times that last
turn can get so tight that you will break something trying to get to the
right position. If you get into this place where you think you can't turn it
far enough, remove, re-apply the PST and stop during the turn before it
locks up.
Hope I did a better job explaining a solution this time.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> The threads are fine in both the brakes and the AN fitting. It's just
> clear that to get it to go further it's going to take some force and I
> don't want to push it any further than I have to. So, my question is,
> is there a specification for a minimum number of threads that should be
> engaged in these AN fittings?
>
> cgalley wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> > You also may have damaged threads as it took a fitting and easily turned
is
> > about 4 turn by hand. The fitting then had no play.
> >
>
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: screwing AN elbow into cleavland brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Below is the standard for pipe threads (NPT). Hopefully this will come
through better than the previous table which was HTML and got totally
garbled on transmission.
American Standard Taper Pipe Threads
Columns below are:
1. Nominal size
2. Actual OD
3. Threads per inch
4. Length of engagement (tightened by hand)
5. Hand tight turns
6. Wrench makeup turns
7. Length of effective thread
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
1/8 0.405 27 0.180 4 2.5 0.260
1/4 0.540 18 0.200 4 3 0.401
3/8 0.675 18 0.240 4 3 0.408
1/2 0.840 14 0.320 4 3 0.534
So, the total threads engaged should be 6-7 depending on the pipe size.
These specifications are for pressures up to 10,000 psi, so a little
less than this would probably be fine for anything in our planes. They
also assume that both the male and female threads are nominal. Since
each can be +/- 1/2 thread from nominal you could have an engagement of
+/- 1 from the above numbers. In general, I accept anything that is
five threads or more. If it is a low pressure fitting, I might even go
down to four (brakes are not low pressure).
I have found plenty of threads that are not to spec, by the way -
usually under tapped.
Dick Tasker
thomas a. sargent wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
>The threads are fine in both the brakes and the AN fitting. It's just
>clear that to get it to go further it's going to take some force and I
>don't want to push it any further than I have to. So, my question is,
>is there a specification for a minimum number of threads that should be
>engaged in these AN fittings?
>
>cgalley wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>>
>>You also may have damaged threads as it took a fitting and easily turned is
>>about 4 turn by hand. The fitting then had no play.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@matronics.com
| Subject: | rocket scientists |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Jim,
most of us rocket scientists on the list don't happen to have a schematic of
a garmin 300 in our back pockets so your question wasn't very answerable.
I can tell you that the 400 series garmins put out "aviation" gps data, the
handhelds put out national marine electronics association 0183 verxx data.
Not sure what the differences are in these two types data streams but I
believe they are different.
I don't remember if the porcine converter will digest the aviation type data
or not, but it will digest the nmea 0183 data.
the trio avionics unit will digest either though.
I can attest that the navaid works better on the serial data then it does on
the analog data, (less oscillation) but it does work on both. And the trio
works better then the navaid both staying on track and not wandering.
Call porcine or try chuck at trio avionics if you want more specific info.
He's very friendly and would be glad to help you out even if you don't buy
his product.
W
Message 28
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"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
water may boil at 100C but it will evaporate at something slightly below 0C
and above, and very little water by mass will actually dissolve into the
oil. The oil manufacturers work hard on this so that even a luke warm engine
can motivate water out of the oil. The issue is rate, but at 90C it will get
rid of all the water in due time unless you are flying through rain.
The atmosphere you are in will always have a dew point well below engine
temps so it must move the water out eventually. (I've been told this rule
may not hold up in the deep south where it gets so humid the rain falls up)
W
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