Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:38 AM - Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
2. 02:53 AM - Re: dynon performance (RV8ter@aol.com)
3. 05:15 AM - Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops (linn walters)
4. 05:30 AM - Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
5. 05:44 AM - Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops (Alex Peterson)
6. 06:07 AM - Re: turbine power (Scott Bilinski)
7. 06:10 AM - Re: Insurance Requirements (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
8. 06:15 AM - Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
9. 06:18 AM - (Ken Simmons)
10. 06:23 AM - Re: Falcon Filght in the Rockies (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
11. 06:28 AM - Pledge? (Larry Bowen)
12. 06:36 AM - Re: RV-List Bird Rash (Scott Bilinski)
13. 06:54 AM - Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops (David Carter)
14. 07:06 AM - Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops (Gary Zilik)
15. 07:25 AM - Re: Falcon Filght in the Rockies (Rabaut, Chuck)
16. 07:37 AM - Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops (Greg Young)
17. 08:04 AM - Re: Falcon Flight in the Rockies (Stuart B McCurdy)
18. 08:23 AM - rudder stops (Frazier, Vincent A)
19. 08:24 AM - Re:Pledge? (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
20. 08:37 AM - Re:Rv-6 Rudder Stops (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
21. 09:03 AM - Trutrack alt hold (Shemp)
22. 09:21 AM - Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops (Shemp)
23. 10:09 AM - Olympia to Arlington Route Suggestions (Ross Mickey)
24. 10:29 AM - Sat Radio Antenna ()
25. 10:51 AM - Re: Pledge? (Stein Bruch)
26. 11:34 AM - Re: Pledge? (Rabaut, Chuck)
27. 11:34 AM - Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops (JusCash@aol.com)
28. 11:45 AM - Re: Pledge? (JusCash@aol.com)
29. 12:05 PM - Re: Pledge? (RV_8 Pilot)
30. 12:20 PM - Re: Pledge? (linn walters)
31. 01:59 PM - Re: Olympia to Arlington Route Suggestions (Mike Robertson)
32. 02:41 PM - Re: Olympia to Arlington Route Suggestions (Ross Mickey)
33. 04:29 PM - Re: (Jim Anglin)
34. 04:29 PM - Re: Olympia to Arlington Route Suggestions (Jim Anglin)
35. 04:40 PM - Re: RV-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 06/27/04 (RV4WGH@aol.com)
36. 05:15 PM - Re: RV-List Digest: Control Stick S- bending (Nick Gaglia)
37. 05:46 PM - Re: Pledge? (David Burton)
38. 06:05 PM - Re: Pledge? (Paul Besing)
39. 06:54 PM - APV - Apple Valley, California Open House (Tom Gummo)
40. 07:00 PM - Re: Pledge? (SportAV8R@aol.com)
41. 08:12 PM - Re: Pledge? (Alex Peterson)
42. 08:14 PM - Re: Pledge? (Gordon and Marge)
43. 08:43 PM - Re: Pledge? (sportpilot)
44. 08:48 PM - Re: Pledge? (Vanremog@aol.com)
45. 09:06 PM - Re: Pledge? (Alex Peterson)
46. 09:20 PM - Re: Pledge? (Ned Thomas)
47. 09:37 PM - Re: Pledge? (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
48. 09:54 PM - Re: Pledge? (Brian Kraut)
49. 09:55 PM - Re: Pledge? (linn walters)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Dean,
Your math and geometry look right. The angle you're talking about is only
the angle at the very back of the stop where the rudder horn touches. I would
suggest making the stop oversized, and then slide it fore and aft for the right
rudder travel before making the rivet holes. Make sure you get the
interference fixed before doing the stops. If you have to adjust the heim joints,
the
position of the stops will change.
Moving the heim joints out to get more travel doesn't help much, since the
pivot point is fixed, and making the hinges longer just means that the rudder
has to travel farther for the same angle. My rudder skins hit the vertical stab
very close to the stop. Also, the bottom fiberglass tip rubs some before
reaching the stops. I think I will have to trim some of it.
In my RV-7 plans book it calls for 30 to 35 degrees. Not sure about the -6.
The extra 5 degrees may not be worth the trouble.
Hope this helps.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Final inspection over with. Still waiting for FAA registration for
signoff. Register you aircraft several months before you're done!)
In a message dated 6/28/04 12:44:09 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
deanpsir@easystreet.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
>
> Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've
> thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from
> neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right stop is what the
> instructions say. If the fuselage sides were straight, that would mean the
> angle cut into the stop should be 55 degrees (since the rudder horn is 90
> degrees to neutral rudder, 180 deg fuse centerline minus 90deg horn minus 35
> degrees max rudder travel equal 55 degrees remaining). However the fuse
> sides are not straight and since they angle outward toward the rudder (sort
> of) one must make the angle in the stop smaller to account for this. My
> measurements show the fuse sides angle about 10 degrees back in the tail
> area. So.due to this fact it looks like I need to also subtract this value
> from the 180 degrees in the equation above, which leaves me with a 45 degree
> cut in the rudder stop. It also seems like an RV builder long ago told me
> that his stop came out to be about 45 degrees but I don't remember for
> certain. So..those of you who've done this, is 45 degrees the right answer?
>
>
> And while I was trimming my side skins to try and get the rudder to be able
> to travel that far (assuming 45 degree stop) I seem to have run into
> something that is keeping the rudder from quite getting there. Can't seem
> to figure out exactly what that is yet (which is what caused me to draw out
> the geometry and start pulling what little is left of my hair out) but that
> brought up the question...if indeed my calculations are correct and I need
> the 45 degree stop can I actually get the rudder to move that far? Anybody
> had a problem getting your rudder to bump up against the stop (assuming you
> needed that much angle on the stop)? Thanks for the help.
>
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
>
> RV-6A N197DM
>
> TMX-360 in test cell this week.
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: dynon performance |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the feedback!
For the G meter, the 10A version which supports audio should help out because
you should be able to set audio alarms at different values so you don't have
to look at it nearly as much. We do this in some military aircraft using
pre-recorded .wav files (I think they are .wav files - I could double check if
they ask). Like all other software, you have to figure out how to do this
without being overly sensitive and annoying to the crew, i.e. if you set up an
alarm
to go off at plus 3 Gs and another at plus 4 Gs and you are trying to hold it
steady at 3 during a loop and go back and forth between 2.8 and 3.2 Gs what
should the alarm do? And what if you quickly go from 2.9 to 4 and back to 3.1,
what should you hear then? Stuff like that they have to figure out. But
it's definately doable and nice when working right. The beauty is in software
the test, fix, fly, test, fix, fly, test, fix, fly...is cheap compared to
hardware fixes and can be done usually a lot quicker.
Same concept for the AI fixes you'd like to see. I think the SW requirements
writers don't write the requirements perfectly the first time or two on
purpose for each function so they have job security by having to stick around to
keep tweaking the requirements. :-)
Nobody on the email lists I asked had anything good to say about their Angle
of Attack function. I guess they have a ways to go to fix it and maybe it
will require a hardware mod to their probe. It's one of the main reasons I want
the unit so I hope they get on that one.
Another feature I hope they add is a an ability to add a cheap glass head
that slaved to the main unit so in Tandem aircraft arrangements a pilot in back
could use it to fly.
A hardware change I hope they make before I buy (but surely probably won't in
time) is to use a knob instead of just all buttons to more quickly and easy
do stuff like change barometric pressure values. I'd pay some more for that
ease of use feature.
Lucky
In a message dated 6/27/2004 8:27:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
skytop@megsinet.net writes:
Lucky,
You raise some good points about the usability of the EFIS-D10. (see below).
Confession: I have 35 hours behind the EFIS and have just yesterday began
aerobatics.
First, I am hard pressed to deal with the usability of the g-meter beyond 2
g's. I have another g-meter from Van's and it works just fine - easier to
watch the needle when pressing into tight situations. I feel this feature is just
a bonus goodie on the Dynon. You may want to leave it set throughout the
flight, just to see the absolute max, while resetting the larger gauge between
maneuvers.
The rate of climb on the Dynon is more sensitive than my steam unit and when
I want to stabilize my altitude, I look to the Dynon. Again, small font, but
very useful once you know where to look.
Regarding the airspeed, I almost always rely on the big numbers on the Dynon.
I found it most useful when coming up with the numbers for placing in my POH
regarding stall speeds. The lowest number that your brain registers (prior
to the break) is the number that goes into the book. I say "prior to the
break", because during the break, it registers about 2mph drop for a brief moment
during the buffet and nose drop.
Once in a while, I will notice the artificial horizon is banked while I am
traveling straight. This is a warning that the ball is out of center. Rest my
toe on the right rudder (1/2 ball's worth) and the AH comes back level.
I like to use the standard rate turn feature on this unit over the one
provided with my wing leveler.
And most of all, I like the way it works without regard to physical
limitations regarding aileron rolls and loops. I have not gotten used to the way
they
represent the number of degrees bank and pitch.
===> With a copy of this e-mail to Dynon support, I would suggest they add a
feature where; when the bank angle or climb angle exceeds a certain point,
numbers appear on the screen, maybe every 5 degrees or so. Then you could tell
you are at 60, 65, 70 degrees at a glance. The way it is now, I have to think
about it. Maybe for F-16 pilots it is intuitive, but not for me.
The feature I REALLY like is the check lists. Very well done. One quirk
that bothers me is when using the checklist during engine start, and the unit is
running on its backup battery, at some point, maybe when I switch on the
aircraft power buss, three or four of the lower lines of the check list is
overlaid with data. I forget exactly what data, maybe the battery voltage and
a
couple other things. But sure enough, it blows away the items I'm suppost to
check following the engine start. Maybe for someone that does not have another
indication of voltage, this is a good feature.
Good luck with your fact finding. I'm sure you'll love your EFIS once you
pull it out of the box. That last year of construction will pass more enjoyably
for you.
Tom Barnes RV-6 N442TB 35+ hrs.
~snip
A few of questions about the Dynon EFIS for those that have flown with it for
a while.
Why haven't I heard anyone talk about it's Angle of Attack performance?
Does the AOA work well? Is it's display too small to be easily used in the
pattern?
Same for the VSI. I have heard that it's very hard to use in flight -
requires one to study it vs. quick glance. Why is that and have they tried to
fix
it yet?
For those that are using it, besides an alternate ASI and Altimeter, what
other steam gauge do you recommend to buy to make life easier? For example,
is
the G meter too difficult to read during acro?
Finally, it's encoder. What's a good transponder that can take read it's
seriel output? The one I was contemplating appears setup for a parallel
signal.
thx,
lucky
~snip
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
>
>Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've
>thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from
>neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right stop is what the
>instructions say. If the fuselage sides were straight, that would mean the
>angle cut into the stop should be 55 degrees (since the rudder horn is 90
>degrees to neutral rudder, 180 deg fuse centerline minus 90deg horn minus 35
>degrees max rudder travel equal 55 degrees remaining). However the fuse
>sides are not straight and since they angle outward toward the rudder (sort
>of) one must make the angle in the stop smaller to account for this. My
>measurements show the fuse sides angle about 10 degrees back in the tail
>area. So.due to this fact it looks like I need to also subtract this value
>from the 180 degrees in the equation above, which leaves me with a 45 degree
>cut in the rudder stop. It also seems like an RV builder long ago told me
>that his stop came out to be about 45 degrees but I don't remember for
>certain. So..those of you who've done this, is 45 degrees the right answer?
>
Well, I haven't done this ..... planning on a -10 in the near future
..... but take it from an Pitts driver .... you want all the rudder you
can get. There isn't any real design reason to limit the rudder travel
..... I've seen my buddies -6a up close ..... and you just may need the
rudder travel in a severe crosswind someday. Instead of doing the math
to incorporate the fuse angle, just drop a plumb bob to the floor from
the hinge line and the trailing edge ..... draw the lines and measure
the angle.
>And while I was trimming my side skins to try and get the rudder to be able
>to travel that far (assuming 45 degree stop) I seem to have run into
>something that is keeping the rudder from quite getting there. Can't seem
>to figure out exactly what that is yet (which is what caused me to draw out
>the geometry and start pulling what little is left of my hair out) but that
>brought up the question...if indeed my calculations are correct and I need
>the 45 degree stop can I actually get the rudder to move that far? Anybody
>had a problem getting your rudder to bump up against the stop (assuming you
>needed that much angle on the stop)? Thanks for the help.
>
You may check to see if the geometry of the pedals isn't causing them to
hit something. Maybe the brake hoses need to be re-routed or fittings
turned etc. for more cleareance. I hope someone that has actual
experience on a -6 will comment ...... my comment is from a practical
standpoint. I can't really find fault with your math though!
Linn
>
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>
>RV-6A N197DM
>
>TMX-360 in test cell this week.
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | RV-6 Rudder Stops |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
The "right" answer as you requested, is to cleco the rudder stop to the
fuse well undercut, and take a ziz wheel, or what ever you use, and trip
until the rudder stops exactly at the desired deflection.
The variation of the stops location on the fuse will directly vary the
angle you are requesting.
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dean
Psiropoulos
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Rudder Stops
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos"
<deanpsir@easystreet.com>
Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've
thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from
neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right stop is what
the
instructions say. If the fuselage sides were straight, that would mean
the
angle cut into the stop should be 55 degrees (since the rudder horn is
90
degrees to neutral rudder, 180 deg fuse centerline minus 90deg horn
minus 35
degrees max rudder travel equal 55 degrees remaining). However the fuse
sides are not straight and since they angle outward toward the rudder
(sort
of) one must make the angle in the stop smaller to account for this. My
measurements show the fuse sides angle about 10 degrees back in the tail
area. So.due to this fact it looks like I need to also subtract this
value
from the 180 degrees in the equation above, which leaves me with a 45
degree
cut in the rudder stop. It also seems like an RV builder long ago told
me
that his stop came out to be about 45 degrees but I don't remember for
certain. So..those of you who've done this, is 45 degrees the right
answer?
And while I was trimming my side skins to try and get the rudder to be
able
to travel that far (assuming 45 degree stop) I seem to have run into
something that is keeping the rudder from quite getting there. Can't
seem
to figure out exactly what that is yet (which is what caused me to draw
out
the geometry and start pulling what little is left of my hair out) but
that
brought up the question...if indeed my calculations are correct and I
need
the 45 degree stop can I actually get the rudder to move that far?
Anybody
had a problem getting your rudder to bump up against the stop (assuming
you
needed that much angle on the stop)? Thanks for the help.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
TMX-360 in test cell this week.
==
==
==
==
Message 5
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Subject: | RV-6 Rudder Stops |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've
> thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from
> neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right
> stop is what the instructions say. If the fuselage sides
> were straight, that would mean the angle cut into the stop
Another way to work it out is to mount the horizontal stab and elevators
together with the vs and rudder. The desired deflection angles bring
the rudder quite close to the elevators when they are at their neutral
position. I'd set that gap at around 1/2" and call it good. Mine has
the correct angular deflection, but gets within about 1/8" under no air
loads, a bit too close I'd say.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 484 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: turbine power |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I talked with them a couple years ago, they calculate HP from thrust, after
asking around I learned that method has a lot to be desired. The way I look
at it is if they cant get over 3000 FPM climb........well do I need to say
any more. They dont give performance numbers for the RV-4.
At 07:55 PM 6/25/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
>
>OK Folks,
>
> There's a new article in "Kitbuilt Airplanes" about "Affordable
> Turbine power" and there Solar turbine engine. Again they boast that
> they are getting 16 gph at 250 hp and 13 gph at 200 hp using an
> automotive type fuel injection system. Now the last time we talked about
> this it was said that the best they could possibly get would be about 1.1
> to 1.2 pounds of fuel per hp with a single stage compressor. That's over
> 20 gph! So what's going on? Could they possibly be getting that kind of
> fuel burn? It sure would be COOL to be running a turbine. Any comments
> from you engineers out there?
>
>Wayne
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Insurance Requirements |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 6/25/04 11:44:48 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
n1cxo320@salidaco.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
> 3. Avemco should be viewed in light of their handling of the infamous
> Davenport case where payment was refused when a fuel system change was
> made, then re-changed again to original configuration and then an
> off-airport landing occured where some property damage was done. Avemco held
> that there should have been a new airworthiness inspection upon the first
> change, and another one when the system was restored to its original
> configuration; since that wasn't done they said the coverage was void. If
> you have Avemco I wonder just what, if any, coverage you really have. Look
> up the case if your interested. I dropped Avemco after that one !!
> Since then it is my understanding they have changed their attitude on this
> sort of thing, but you wonder ?
>
> 4. Illegitimus non carborundum !
>
> John at Salida, CO
>
>
>
This is also my reason for not using Avemco. I'm sure anyone with Avemco
insurance who reads the case would have to wonder if they are "insured."
Dan H.
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 6/28/04 4:40:20 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> Dean,
>
> Your math and geometry look right. The angle you're talking about is only
> the angle at the very back of the stop where the rudder horn touches. I
> would
> suggest making the stop oversized, and then slide it fore and aft for the
> right
> rudder travel before making the rivet holes. Make sure you get the
> interference fixed before doing the stops. If you have to adjust the heim
> joints, the
> position of the stops will change.
>
>
I was wrong in saying that the "position of the stops will change." The
pivot point is fixed to the vertical stab which is fixed to the fuselage.
Therefore the angle, once set should not change.
Dan
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
I've been pondering my problem with the KLX135A not talking to the Digitrak. I'm
definitely getting something other than the KLX135A, but what?
I'm now considering a panel mount GPS. I hadn't considered this before because
I thought the installations were pretty much a kludge. That's until I read the
recent discussions on how to panel mount these and saw some at the home wing
fly-in. There were some pretty innovative an nice looking setups.
I have a couple of questions if I go this route. My mission will be mostly local
flying with an occasional cross-country.
Is a comm and transponder the only other avionics "needed"? Is the GPS removed
frequently or can the installation be more "permanent". Trutrak recommends against
a handheld because of slow update rates. They do say that the newer ones
are OK. I've seen a couple of installations with the Digtrak and the Garmin handhelds
so this doesn't seem to be an issue. I'm considering the Garmin 196, which
specifies a 1/sec update rate.
Thanks.
Ken
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 10
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Subject: | Falcon Filght in the Rockies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Great Post Keith.
No doubt they will appreciate you saying so.
I can tell you from personal experience, they are all those things you
mentioned, and a lot more. They fly great, but more importantly, they
are great people.
The team had a personal loss last year and really showed their
professionalism during that time. They got back out on the circuit and
just kept flying. When times are tough, you really see what people are
made of. They responded gracefully with dignity.
Remember, there is no money in this stuff. They do it for the love of
the sport, personal gratification, comradery, fun, and for the public.
They shell out their own time and effort to put on a show. Sure its fun,
but it is a lot of work and commitment. Not to mention the cost. They
are not only ambassadors to the RV community, but to general aviation as
a whole. Many pilots, and wanna be pilots have been inspired by their
pursuit of perfection, myself included.
I first saw Falcon Flight fly into Waco a few years ago. They brought
the place to a halt. The field was buzzing with early morning activity
with all the arrivals into the tiny grass strip. But when they made
their first pass, all eyes were up and glued, including mine. For a few
moments, the world stopped for every single person on that field. A real
class act.
Since then I have gotten to fly with them on a several occasions. They
fly great, but as always, it's the people. When you get to know them
personally, you quickly learn why they do it, and why they are so good.
It's a passion.
Those at Osh this year will get to see them perform their routine with
an 8 ship I believe. With any luck, I'll get to hang on a wing with
them. Come out and see them.
If you have a desire to fly like that, you have a golden opportunity to
train with them. Falcon Flight, along with other like minded formation
pilots, are putting on a formation clinic in Mason City Iowa, the
weekend before Osh. Details here.
http://www.mstewart.net/teamrv/formationclinic/masoncity04/
Don't miss this golden opportunity to learn from experienced pilots and
hang out with pilots with a passion for precision formation
demonstration flight like none you have seen before. Its fun,
challenging, and very rewarding.
Regards,
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv6tc
Subject: RV-List: Falcon Filght in the Rockies
--> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" <rv6tc@myawai.com>
Howdy RVers.
I just returned from working at the EAA Rocky Mountain fly in where I
worked
on the line with the airshow performers. I wanted to publicly let you
all
(all-Y'all for the Texans) know how well represented we are by the
members
of Falcon Flight. To those of you who have seen them fly, their flying
speaks for itself. We had performers ranging from a DeHavilland DH-112
Venom (only three flying) to a MIG -17, with a number of military and
professional pilots, but I wanted to tell you that no one was as totally
professional and easy to work with as the Falcon Flight. Their hard
work
made a positive impression on everyone at the air show staff, and are
fantastic ambassadors to the RV world.
Just thought you should know.
Thanks guys, it was a pleasure.
Keith Hughes
RV-6
Denver
==
==
==
==
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 12
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|
Subject: | Re: RV-List Bird Rash |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I saw an A&P remove just that type of dent. He started tapping with a
rubber mallet around the dent and pretty soon it was 90% gone! I was amazed
at what I saw. I would ask around locally as to who has the skill to remove
that type of dent. Remember though the alum is 2024 once bent it is
difficult to return it to its proper shape for us mortals.
At 04:57 PM 6/26/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
>
>Hey guys, I intercepted the path of a innocent bystander (some kind of
>a bird) at aprox. 180kn. today. It only made a little click noise but
>looking to the left revealed a seen that I didn't wan't to see. I now
>have a really nice or maybe not so nice dent on the leading edge of the
>wing and it isn't where I would put a landing light.
> Have anyone of you had experience doing this kind of repair? Did
>you replace the whole skin or can I cut out the dent, flute the edge and
>then make a new piece to fit the cut out?
>
>The dent is contained between two ribs.
>
>Weasel Graber
>-4 (39hr.....was happy, now feelin bad)
>Brooksville MS
>662 574 5210
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Because of all the filing of skins to get 30 degrees deflection, I chose to
accept 30 degrees, not 35 as my "goal". The angle on my stop is 36 degrees
from perpendicular. Gives me 30 degrees of rudder deflection. Stop
measured on Drawing is 47 degrees from perpendicular.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 Rudder Stops
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> Dean,
>
> Your math and geometry look right. The angle you're talking about is only
> the angle at the very back of the stop where the rudder horn touches. I
would
> suggest making the stop oversized, and then slide it fore and aft for the
right
> rudder travel before making the rivet holes. Make sure you get the
> interference fixed before doing the stops. If you have to adjust the heim
joints, the
> position of the stops will change.
>
> Moving the heim joints out to get more travel doesn't help much, since the
> pivot point is fixed, and making the hinges longer just means that the
rudder
> has to travel farther for the same angle. My rudder skins hit the
vertical stab
> very close to the stop. Also, the bottom fiberglass tip rubs some before
> reaching the stops. I think I will have to trim some of it.
>
> In my RV-7 plans book it calls for 30 to 35 degrees. Not sure about
the -6.
> The extra 5 degrees may not be worth the trouble.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (Final inspection over with. Still waiting for FAA registration for
> signoff. Register you aircraft several months before you're done!)
>
>
> In a message dated 6/28/04 12:44:09 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> deanpsir@easystreet.com writes:
>
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos"
<deanpsir@easystreet.com>
> >
> > Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've
> > thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from
> > neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right stop is what
the
> > instructions say. If the fuselage sides were straight, that would mean
the
> > angle cut into the stop should be 55 degrees (since the rudder horn is
90
> > degrees to neutral rudder, 180 deg fuse centerline minus 90deg horn
minus 35
> > degrees max rudder travel equal 55 degrees remaining). However the fuse
> > sides are not straight and since they angle outward toward the rudder
(sort
> > of) one must make the angle in the stop smaller to account for this. My
> > measurements show the fuse sides angle about 10 degrees back in the tail
> > area. So.due to this fact it looks like I need to also subtract this
value
> > from the 180 degrees in the equation above, which leaves me with a 45
degree
> > cut in the rudder stop. It also seems like an RV builder long ago told
me
> > that his stop came out to be about 45 degrees but I don't remember for
> > certain. So..those of you who've done this, is 45 degrees the right
answer?
> >
> >
> > And while I was trimming my side skins to try and get the rudder to be
able
> > to travel that far (assuming 45 degree stop) I seem to have run into
> > something that is keeping the rudder from quite getting there. Can't
seem
> > to figure out exactly what that is yet (which is what caused me to draw
out
> > the geometry and start pulling what little is left of my hair out) but
that
> > brought up the question...if indeed my calculations are correct and I
need
> > the 45 degree stop can I actually get the rudder to move that far?
Anybody
> > had a problem getting your rudder to bump up against the stop (assuming
you
> > needed that much angle on the stop)? Thanks for the help.
> >
> >
> > Dean Psiropoulos
> >
> > RV-6A N197DM
> >
> > TMX-360 in test cell this week.
> >
>
>
Message 14
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|
Subject: | Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Basically the only measurement needed is to make sure that at full
rudder deflection the trailing edge of the elevator is 1/2-3/4" away
from rudder. This results in approx 35 degrees rudder deflection.
Gary
Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
>
>Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've
>thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from
>neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right stop is what the
>instructions say. If the fuselage sides were straight, that would mean the
>angle cut into the stop should be 55 degrees (since the rudder horn is 90
>degrees to neutral rudder, 180 deg fuse centerline minus 90deg horn minus 35
>degrees max rudder travel equal 55 degrees remaining). However the fuse
>sides are not straight and since they angle outward toward the rudder (sort
>of) one must make the angle in the stop smaller to account for this. My
>measurements show the fuse sides angle about 10 degrees back in the tail
>area. So.due to this fact it looks like I need to also subtract this value
>from the 180 degrees in the equation above, which leaves me with a 45 degree
>cut in the rudder stop. It also seems like an RV builder long ago told me
>that his stop came out to be about 45 degrees but I don't remember for
>certain. So..those of you who've done this, is 45 degrees the right answer?
>
>
>And while I was trimming my side skins to try and get the rudder to be able
>to travel that far (assuming 45 degree stop) I seem to have run into
>something that is keeping the rudder from quite getting there. Can't seem
>to figure out exactly what that is yet (which is what caused me to draw out
>the geometry and start pulling what little is left of my hair out) but that
>brought up the question...if indeed my calculations are correct and I need
>the 45 degree stop can I actually get the rudder to move that far? Anybody
>had a problem getting your rudder to bump up against the stop (assuming you
>needed that much angle on the stop)? Thanks for the help.
>
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>
>RV-6A N197DM
>
>TMX-360 in test cell this week.
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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|
Subject: | Falcon Filght in the Rockies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut@fresnosheriff.org>
Mike,
Hope you're not offended, but I'm reposting "for the archives".
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RE: RV-List: Falcon Filght in the Rockies
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Great Post Keith.
No doubt they will appreciate you saying so.
I can tell you from personal experience, they are all those things you
mentioned, and a lot more. They fly great, but more importantly, they
are great people.
The team had a personal loss last year and really showed their
professionalism during that time. They got back out on the circuit and
just kept flying. When times are tough, you really see what people are
made of. They responded gracefully with dignity.
Remember, there is no money in this stuff. They do it for the love of
the sport, personal gratification, comradery, fun, and for the public.
They shell out their own time and effort to put on a show. Sure its fun,
but it is a lot of work and commitment. Not to mention the cost. They
are not only ambassadors to the RV community, but to general aviation as
a whole. Many pilots, and wanna be pilots have been inspired by their
pursuit of perfection, myself included.
I first saw Falcon Flight fly into Waco a few years ago. They brought
the place to a halt. The field was buzzing with early morning activity
with all the arrivals into the tiny grass strip. But when they made
their first pass, all eyes were up and glued, including mine. For a few
moments, the world stopped for every single person on that field. A real
class act.
Since then I have gotten to fly with them on a several occasions. They
fly great, but as always, it's the people. When you get to know them
personally, you quickly learn why they do it, and why they are so good.
It's a passion.
Those at Osh this year will get to see them perform their routine with
an 8 ship I believe. With any luck, I'll get to hang on a wing with
them. Come out and see them.
If you have a desire to fly like that, you have a golden opportunity to
train with them. Falcon Flight, along with other like minded formation
pilots, are putting on a formation clinic in Mason City Iowa, the
weekend before Osh. Details here.
http://www.mstewart.net/teamrv/formationclinic/masoncity04/
Don't miss this golden opportunity to learn from experienced pilots and
hang out with pilots with a passion for precision formation
demonstration flight like none you have seen before. Its fun,
challenging, and very rewarding.
Regards,
Mike
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RV-List: Falcon Filght in the Rockies
--> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" <rv6tc@myawai.com>
Howdy RVers.
I just returned from working at the EAA Rocky Mountain fly in where I
worked
on the line with the airshow performers. I wanted to publicly let you
all
(all-Y'all for the Texans) know how well represented we are by the
members
of Falcon Flight. To those of you who have seen them fly, their flying
speaks for itself. We had performers ranging from a DeHavilland DH-112
Venom (only three flying) to a MIG -17, with a number of military and
professional pilots, but I wanted to tell you that no one was as totally
professional and easy to work with as the Falcon Flight. Their hard
work
made a positive impression on everyone at the air show staff, and are
fantastic ambassadors to the RV world.
Just thought you should know.
Thanks guys, it was a pleasure.
Keith Hughes
RV-6
Denver
Message 16
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|
Subject: | RV-6 Rudder Stops |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Gary's correct, the most important issue is non-interference with the
elevator. Additionally, position them vertically so they don't interfere
with the rudder cables. Don't bother calculating the angle, it will vary
with the space between the elevator horns and the adjustment of the rod
ends. Just put an oversize stop in place and trim with a Dremel.
Greg
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
>
> Basically the only measurement needed is to make sure that at
> full rudder deflection the trailing edge of the elevator is
> 1/2-3/4" away from rudder. This results in approx 35 degrees
> rudder deflection.
>
>
Message 17
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|
Subject: | Re: Falcon Flight in the Rockies |
--> RV-List message posted by: Stuart B McCurdy <sturdy@att.net>
Keith and the RV World,
Thanks for the great comments about Falcon Flight, but I want the world to know
how well run and what a great site the newly relocated Rocky Mountain Regional
Fly-in is. The site is in the flat land east of Denver, and through it is very
close to DIA, the airspace was not a problem. The airfield layout is perfect
for display and for the airshow. But even greater was the attention to detail
and the responsiveness of the organizers. We were met on the flight line
by Keith and others who cared about what they were doing and had the information
ready to pass out. Everything was planned and taken care of. Their efforts
and answers spoke well of their preplanning. Keith was on top of everything
making sure our needs were met, that info was flowing, that performers were
ready on time, and that any problems were taken care of.
Scott McMillan and Keith Hughes (and many others) put on a great fly-in.
Stu McCurdy
Falcon Flight
------
Time: 04:08:34 PM PST US
From: "rv6tc" <rv6tc@myawai.com>
Subject: RV-List: Falcon Filght in the Rockies
--> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" <rv6tc@myawai.com>
Howdy RVers.
I just returned from working at the EAA Rocky Mountain fly in where I worked
on the line with the airshow performers. I wanted to publicly let you all
(all-Y'all for the Texans) know how well represented we are by the members
of Falcon Flight. To those of you who have seen them fly, their flying
speaks for itself. We had performers ranging from a DeHavilland DH-112
Venom (only three flying) to a MIG -17, with a number of military and
professional pilots, but I wanted to tell you that no one was as totally
professional and easy to work with as the Falcon Flight. Their hard work
made a positive impression on everyone at the air show staff, and are
fantastic ambassadors to the RV world.
Just thought you should know.
Thanks guys, it was a pleasure.
Keith Hughes
RV-6
Denver
____________
Message 18
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP
Time: 10:43:33 PM PST US
From: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Rudder Stops
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos"
<deanpsir@easystreet.com>
Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've
thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from
neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right stop is what
the
instructions say. If the fuselage sides were straight, that would mean
the
angle cut into the stop should be 55 degrees (since the rudder horn is
90
degrees to neutral rudder, 180 deg fuse centerline minus 90deg horn
minus 35
degrees max rudder travel equal 55 degrees remaining). However the fuse
sides are not straight and since they angle outward toward the rudder
(sort
of) one must make the angle in the stop smaller to account for this. My
measurements show the fuse sides angle about 10 degrees back in the tail
area. So.due to this fact it looks like I need to also subtract this
value
from the 180 degrees in the equation above, which leaves me with a 45
degree
cut in the rudder stop. It also seems like an RV builder long ago told
me
that his stop came out to be about 45 degrees but I don't remember for
certain. So..those of you who've done this, is 45 degrees the right
answer?
And while I was trimming my side skins to try and get the rudder to be
able
to travel that far (assuming 45 degree stop) I seem to have run into
something that is keeping the rudder from quite getting there. Can't
seem
to figure out exactly what that is yet (which is what caused me to draw
out
the geometry and start pulling what little is left of my hair out) but
that
brought up the question...if indeed my calculations are correct and I
need
the 45 degree stop can I actually get the rudder to move that far?
Anybody
had a problem getting your rudder to bump up against the stop (assuming
you
needed that much angle on the stop)? Thanks for the help. SNIP
Dean,
The rod ends on the rudder can be screwed in or out somewhat to help
correct the interferences. Often the fiberglas rudder bottom will hit
the VS stab.
If the rod ends are out as far as is designed, then it's time to trim
fuselage skin or grind fiberglas. Have fun.
My Rocket required that part of the rudder fiberglass bottom be ground
away to clear the bolt heads that hold the VS to the fuselage.
I've found that the angles aren't critical. Don't fret over them too
much. The elevators provide you with the data you need since the rudder
must not touch them!
So just hack off the rudder stop as needed to provide 1/4" or so
clearance at the elevators. Sometimes eyeball engineering really is
best. I think this situation is an appropriate example.
Vince Frazier
F-1H Rocket, N540VF
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
Message 19
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Not the preferred canopy cleaner around our house !!
I'll stick with Mequiars Mirrow Glaze. That's a PROVEN product : not
something which might ruin my $5,000.00 Rv-4 canopy. (My time to replace the
canopy
would be worth that much-at least !!)
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 20
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|
Subject: | Re:Rv-6 Rudder Stops |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Why not just move the rudder to the max travel and place the rudder stop
angle on the skin,then trace the angle needed on the rudder stop angle ???
NO math needed !!!
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 21
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|
Subject: | Trutrack alt hold |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I just installed the trutrack alt hold and flew for a couple of hours. I couldnt
be more pleased. Wow, what a nice upgrade. It held altitude within 10 feet
for over an hour and a half, including some small turns. Push the button, its
on, push it again, its off. Really simple. The install was also very simple.
I would recommend keeping the controller behind the baggage comp, close to
the servo, to simplify the wiring harness. I dont have it hooked up to the
static system. Excellent customer support as well.
I have the old nav aid auto pilot and the two worked well together so far.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6a
Chicago/ Louisville
Message 22
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|
Subject: | Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
As Alex already stated, I would just center the elevator, move the rudder to
within about 1/2 inch and drill the stop.
The swaged fitting on the rudder pedal side of the cable may be getting
stuck on the former and causing the interference.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 Rudder Stops
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> Because of all the filing of skins to get 30 degrees deflection, I chose
to
> accept 30 degrees, not 35 as my "goal". The angle on my stop is 36
degrees
> from perpendicular. Gives me 30 degrees of rudder deflection. Stop
> measured on Drawing is 47 degrees from perpendicular.
>
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 Rudder Stops
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
> >
> > Dean,
> >
> > Your math and geometry look right. The angle you're talking about is
only
> > the angle at the very back of the stop where the rudder horn touches. I
> would
> > suggest making the stop oversized, and then slide it fore and aft for
the
> right
> > rudder travel before making the rivet holes. Make sure you get the
> > interference fixed before doing the stops. If you have to adjust the
heim
> joints, the
> > position of the stops will change.
> >
> > Moving the heim joints out to get more travel doesn't help much, since
the
> > pivot point is fixed, and making the hinges longer just means that the
> rudder
> > has to travel farther for the same angle. My rudder skins hit the
> vertical stab
> > very close to the stop. Also, the bottom fiberglass tip rubs some
before
> > reaching the stops. I think I will have to trim some of it.
> >
> > In my RV-7 plans book it calls for 30 to 35 degrees. Not sure about
> the -6.
> > The extra 5 degrees may not be worth the trouble.
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Dan Hopper
> > RV-7A (Final inspection over with. Still waiting for FAA registration
for
> > signoff. Register you aircraft several months before you're done!)
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 6/28/04 12:44:09 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> > deanpsir@easystreet.com writes:
> >
> > >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos"
> <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
> > >
> > > Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've
> > > thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from
> > > neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right stop is what
> the
> > > instructions say. If the fuselage sides were straight, that would
mean
> the
> > > angle cut into the stop should be 55 degrees (since the rudder horn is
> 90
> > > degrees to neutral rudder, 180 deg fuse centerline minus 90deg horn
> minus 35
> > > degrees max rudder travel equal 55 degrees remaining). However the
fuse
> > > sides are not straight and since they angle outward toward the rudder
> (sort
> > > of) one must make the angle in the stop smaller to account for this.
My
> > > measurements show the fuse sides angle about 10 degrees back in the
tail
> > > area. So.due to this fact it looks like I need to also subtract this
> value
> > > from the 180 degrees in the equation above, which leaves me with a 45
> degree
> > > cut in the rudder stop. It also seems like an RV builder long ago
told
> me
> > > that his stop came out to be about 45 degrees but I don't remember for
> > > certain. So..those of you who've done this, is 45 degrees the right
> answer?
> > >
> > >
> > > And while I was trimming my side skins to try and get the rudder to be
> able
> > > to travel that far (assuming 45 degree stop) I seem to have run into
> > > something that is keeping the rudder from quite getting there. Can't
> seem
> > > to figure out exactly what that is yet (which is what caused me to
draw
> out
> > > the geometry and start pulling what little is left of my hair out) but
> that
> > > brought up the question...if indeed my calculations are correct and I
> need
> > > the 45 degree stop can I actually get the rudder to move that far?
> Anybody
> > > had a problem getting your rudder to bump up against the stop
(assuming
> you
> > > needed that much angle on the stop)? Thanks for the help.
> > >
> > >
> > > Dean Psiropoulos
> > >
> > > RV-6A N197DM
> > >
> > > TMX-360 in test cell this week.
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 23
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|
Subject: | Olympia to Arlington Route Suggestions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
I am planning my flight to Arlington for the 9th and would like some
suggestions from local flyers. I will be in a meeting the morning of
the 9th in Olympia, WA and will be heading to Arlington around 1pm. I
am IFR capable and am wondering what the best route to Arlington may be.
I have the NOTAM and all the other info from the website.
Ross Mickey
N9PT
Message 24
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|
Subject: | Sat Radio Antenna |
--> RV-List message posted by: <EricHe@FlexSolPackaging.com>
Anyone have any idea if you could run your GPS off a Satellite Radio antenna? They
have some slick little antennas.
Eric
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
I've been using Plexus for some years now, used by the Heli guys on those
huge bubbles and used by the Biz Jet folks on thier windows to.
Not cheap, but does a really nice job.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RV-List: Pledge?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rabaut, Chuck" <Chuck.Rabaut@fresnosheriff.org>
I'll second the Plexus. Comes in an aerosal can, costs an arm & a leg, doesn't
smell as good as Lemon Pledge, but does a good cleanin' job. So good in fact,
I can't remember what I use to use (5+ years ago).
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Pledge?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
I've been using Plexus for some years now, used by the Heli guys on those
huge bubbles and used by the Biz Jet folks on thier windows to.
Not cheap, but does a really nice job.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RV-List: Pledge?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 27
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|
Subject: | Re: RV-6 Rudder Stops |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
You have received a lot of good advice about setting the rudder angle. One
thing I haven't seen mentioned is rudder cable interference with the stop at
full deflection. Make sure that the rudder horn contacts the stop squarely
without interference from the cable clevis fork.
Cash Copeland
RV-6 150hrs and counting
Hayward, Ca
In a message dated 6/27/2004 10:44:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
deanpsir@easystreet.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
Ok guys I've been pulling my hair out tonight about this thing. I've
thought about this and even drawn out the geometry. 35 degrees from
neutral to left stop and 35 degrees from neutral to right stop is what the
instructions say. If the fuselage sides were straight, that would mean the
angle cut into the stop should be 55 degrees (since the rudder horn is 90
degrees to neutral rudder, 180 deg fuse centerline minus 90deg horn minus 35
degrees max rudder travel equal 55 degrees remaining). However the fuse
sides are not straight and since they angle outward toward the rudder (sort
of) one must make the angle in the stop smaller to account for this. My
measurements show the fuse sides angle about 10 degrees back in the tail
area. So.due to this fact it looks like I need to also subtract this value
from the 180 degrees in the equation above, which leaves me with a 45 degree
cut in the rudder stop. It also seems like an RV builder long ago told me
that his stop came out to be about 45 degrees but I don't remember for
certain. So..those of you who've done this, is 45 degrees the right answer?
And while I was trimming my side skins to try and get the rudder to be able
to travel that far (assuming 45 degree stop) I seem to have run into
something that is keeping the rudder from quite getting there. Can't seem
to figure out exactly what that is yet (which is what caused me to draw out
the geometry and start pulling what little is left of my hair out) but that
brought up the question...if indeed my calculations are correct and I need
the 45 degree stop can I actually get the rudder to move that far? Anybody
had a problem getting your rudder to bump up against the stop (assuming you
needed that much angle on the stop)? Thanks for the help.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
TMX-360 in test cell this week.
Message 28
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
Maybe an "old wives tale," I was told years ago not to use the lemon version
because of some reaction with the plastic. Have been using the regular for 20
years with no problem.
Cash Copeland
RV-6 150hrs and counting
Hayward, Ca
In a message dated 6/28/2004 6:38:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Larry@bowenaero.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 29
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
I tried Pledge on the plexi but was not pleased with the dust it seemed to
attract/gather/stuck to it afterward. Instead I use an aviation aerosol
foam plexi cleaner - sorry, can't remember the name.
I do use a pledge knock-off on the paint. Walgreens sells their store brand
in 12 or 16-ounce cans. you can catch them on sale periodically for $1 each
(2 for $1.99).
Bryan Jones -8
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
>
>Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy?
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry@BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
Message 30
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
JusCash@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
>
>Maybe an "old wives tale," I was told years ago not to use the lemon version
>because of some reaction with the plastic. Have been using the regular for 20
>years with no problem.
>
>Cash Copeland
>RV-6 150hrs and counting
>Hayward, Ca
>
You don't want to use anything with ammonia in it. Like Windex etc.
Haven't heard anything against the 'lemon' .... which may nt be real
anyway!!!
Linn
>
>In a message dated 6/28/2004 6:38:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
>Larry@bowenaero.com writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
>Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy?
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry@BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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|
Subject: | Olympia to Arlington Route Suggestions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Ross,
While you can come in from the west, the preferred way is from the southeast
because the check-in reporting point is to the southeast of Arlington. It
is also easier to miss the Class B airspace and the TFRs.
Mike R.
Do Not Archive
>From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Olympia to Arlington Route Suggestions
>Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 10:08:50 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
>
>I am planning my flight to Arlington for the 9th and would like some
>suggestions from local flyers. I will be in a meeting the morning of
>the 9th in Olympia, WA and will be heading to Arlington around 1pm. I
>am IFR capable and am wondering what the best route to Arlington may be.
>I have the NOTAM and all the other info from the website.
>
>Ross Mickey
>N9PT
>
>
Message 32
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|
Subject: | Olympia to Arlington Route Suggestions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
Thanks, Mike. I have that one plotted. My other alternative is to file
IFR from OLM-ARPEE int-PAE vor-WA25-AWO and cancel IFR after PAE vor.
This saves about 20 miles which is no biggy in a RV6A.
Ross
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Robertson
Ross,
While you can come in from the west, the preferred way is from the
southeast
because the check-in reporting point is to the southeast of Arlington.
It
is also easier to miss the Class B airspace and the TFRs.
Mike R.
Do Not Archive
>From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Olympia to Arlington Route Suggestions
>Date: Mon, 28 Jun 2004 10:08:50 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
>
>I am planning my flight to Arlington for the 9th and would like some
>suggestions from local flyers. I will be in a meeting the morning of
>the 9th in Olympia, WA and will be heading to Arlington around 1pm. I
>am IFR capable and am wondering what the best route to Arlington may
be.
>I have the NOTAM and all the other info from the website.
>
>Ross Mickey
>N9PT
>
Message 33
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
I have a Garmin GNC300XL. It is panel mounted and has a comm radio built
in. It is simple to use (of course, I'm not flying the airplane yet) but it
is in and tested and I've flown in an RV-6 with one and they are nice. You
can get Factory Remanned for around $2000 (mine is) and they are IFR rated.
I have mine wired to display the output of the encoder and to provide course
info to my Navaid. It has analog or digital output for your autipilot.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>
> I've been pondering my problem with the KLX135A not talking to the
Digitrak. I'm definitely getting something other than the KLX135A, but what?
>
> I'm now considering a panel mount GPS. I hadn't considered this before
because I thought the installations were pretty much a kludge. That's until
I read the recent discussions on how to panel mount these and saw some at
the home wing fly-in. There were some pretty innovative an nice looking
setups.
>
> I have a couple of questions if I go this route. My mission will be mostly
local flying with an occasional cross-country.
>
> Is a comm and transponder the only other avionics "needed"? Is the GPS
removed frequently or can the installation be more "permanent". Trutrak
recommends against a handheld because of slow update rates. They do say that
the newer ones are OK. I've seen a couple of installations with the Digtrak
and the Garmin handhelds so this doesn't seem to be an issue. I'm
considering the Garmin 196, which specifies a 1/sec update rate.
>
> Thanks.
> Ken
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 34
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|
Subject: | Re: Olympia to Arlington Route Suggestions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
Get yourself a Seattle Sectional and Terminal Chart. You can go east from
there and then go north up the east side of the Seattle area using the
charts to avoid Class B and military areas (my favorite), or you can go
north from there and cross the Sound north of Arlington avoiding military
space and TFRs. Entering the Arlington airspace is possible and simple from
either way. Get the directions from the NWEAA website.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RV-List: Olympia to Arlington Route Suggestions
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
>
> I am planning my flight to Arlington for the 9th and would like some
> suggestions from local flyers. I will be in a meeting the morning of
> the 9th in Olympia, WA and will be heading to Arlington around 1pm. I
> am IFR capable and am wondering what the best route to Arlington may be.
> I have the NOTAM and all the other info from the website.
>
> Ross Mickey
> N9PT
>
>
Message 35
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|
Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 06/27/04 |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV4WGH@aol.com
In a message dated 6/28/2004 2:00:08 AM Central Standard Time,
rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
>> snip... I did find a pro in a local Antique Auto restoration shop who
was quite
competent in metal fabrication and repair and on aluminum and steel. He
removed my dent in 15 minutes with a body hammer and a dolly. You can not
tell, even under close examination, that the leading edge was damaged ...
end snip
Our flying club had a Beech Sundowner with the same problem. Our mechanic
counted 150 dents in both leading edges! Two of our memberes, both CFI's were
landing in Central Wisconsin late on an October evening when they suddenly were
"IFR" in a flock of Starlings. Our mechanic had a friend who worked in the
body shop of the local Chevy dealer who was able to remove over 80% of the
dents with a single "educated" tap with a small hammer! VERY little bondo was
necessary. I think at that time that the leading edge which is a "D" section was
$4000 each if I remember correctly.
Two CFI"s were very lucky to have maintained control as they were on final
apprach at the time.
Wally Hunt
Rockford, IL
Message 36
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|
Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: Control Stick S- bending |
--> RV-List message posted by: Nick Gaglia <ngaglia@calpine.com>
I recall reading about a guy that offered a service of S- bending control
sticks for RV-8's
But I can't find it
Can anyone give a link
Nick in Livermore
Message 37
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Is there anything you like using other then paper towels to clean your
canopy? I'd like to find something less likely to scratch and disposable so
I can pitch it after one use...
Thanks!
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge?
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> JusCash@aol.com wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
> >
> >Maybe an "old wives tale," I was told years ago not to use the lemon
version
> >because of some reaction with the plastic. Have been using the regular
for 20
> >years with no problem.
> >
> >Cash Copeland
> >RV-6 150hrs and counting
> >Hayward, Ca
> >
> You don't want to use anything with ammonia in it. Like Windex etc.
> Haven't heard anything against the 'lemon' .... which may nt be real
> anyway!!!
> Linn
>
> >
> >In a message dated 6/28/2004 6:38:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> >Larry@bowenaero.com writes:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
> >
> >Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy?
> >
> >-
> >Larry Bowen
> >Larry@BowenAero.com
> >http://BowenAero.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 38
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Not sure about paper towels that you could use safely. I used to keep a
ziploc bag with a soft cloth in it (too keep dirt out of the cloth) and a
can of Plexus. The cloth could be used over and over again, and washed
occasionally. Or, you can buy a package of them (I purchased the yellow
ones at an autopart store). Use one (keep it away from dirt, i.e. a ziploc
bag) for a while, then discard and move on to the next. You might buy 2 or
3 packages of these per year. Works great, and won't harm your canopy like
paper towels will.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Someday
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>
> Is there anything you like using other then paper towels to clean your
> canopy? I'd like to find something less likely to scratch and disposable
so
> I can pitch it after one use...
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
> >
> > JusCash@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
> > >
> > >Maybe an "old wives tale," I was told years ago not to use the lemon
> version
> > >because of some reaction with the plastic. Have been using the regular
> for 20
> > >years with no problem.
> > >
> > >Cash Copeland
> > >RV-6 150hrs and counting
> > >Hayward, Ca
> > >
> > You don't want to use anything with ammonia in it. Like Windex etc.
> > Haven't heard anything against the 'lemon' .... which may nt be real
> > anyway!!!
> > Linn
> >
> > >
> > >In a message dated 6/28/2004 6:38:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > >Larry@bowenaero.com writes:
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
> > >
> > >Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy?
> > >
> > >-
> > >Larry Bowen
> > >Larry@BowenAero.com
> > >http://BowenAero.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 39
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|
"Rocket List" <rocket-list@matronics.com>,
"RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
Subject: | APV - Apple Valley, California Open House |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Everybody,
The Apple Valley Air Fair is being reduced this year to an "open house - fly in".
Money and politics have caused a reduction in this years event.
Anyway, the initial planning has started and everybody is invited to fly in for
the pancake breakfast. It is looking like the breakfast will be free for those
that fly in (more on than later and it is not in concrete yet).
So put October 9, 2004 from 9:00 AM to 3:00 PM, breakfast from 9:00 to 11:00 AM,
on your calendar. Come to the high desert and enjoy our beautiful blue skies,
warn weather, good food, and comradeship. Multiple low approaches on arrival
and departure will be encouraged. There will be NO waived airspace but safety
is paramount.
People Choice Awards will be given to the planes, cars, etc that the attendees
vote for.
So plan on coming and having a good time. More details will be posted as they
become available.
Tom "The Fired Air Boss" Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
Message 40
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
The yellow flannel rags from Wal Mart and Auto Zone are good for this job; stay
away from the microfiber ones; they feel soft to the touch but they will scratch
your canopy- been there & done that.
Ditto on keeping them uncontaminated in a plastic bag; but, why not wash and reuse
them? I toss mine in the laundry and they are good for dozens of uses.
-Stormy
Message 41
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
> The yellow flannel rags from Wal Mart and Auto Zone are good
> for this job; stay away from the microfiber ones; they feel
> soft to the touch but they will scratch your canopy- been
> there & done that.
>
> Ditto on keeping them uncontaminated in a plastic bag; but,
> why not wash and reuse them? I toss mine in the laundry and
> they are good for dozens of uses.
>
> -Stormy
I bought a pack of the yellow cotton cloths at WalMart three years ago,
I've washed them several times. Just be sure not to put anything else
in the wash that you don't want yellow. In the summer, I keep a bundle
of them in the plane.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 489 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 42
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Burton
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge?
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Is there anything you like using other then paper towels to clean your
canopy? I'd like to find something less likely to scratch and
disposable so I can pitch it after one use...
Thanks!
I suggest you not use paper in any form on a canopy. Water and bare
hands (if clean) work well but are not always practical. My canopy
accumulates enough bugs and dirt that I don't reuse any cloth. Plain
cotton T-shirt material with a good cleaner works very well. Use the
cloth once and throw it in the laundry. There are several good cleaners
available but I like Brillianize best. It can be sprayed on in
sufficient volume to soften bugs and leaves a polished surface. It can
be bought in gallon bottles and transferred to a small spritzer bottle.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 43
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportpilot@moneypit.com>
anyone used RainX to keep it slippery ?
or does that harm it.. ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Pledge?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon and Marge" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Burton
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge?
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>
> Is there anything you like using other then paper towels to clean your
> canopy? I'd like to find something less likely to scratch and
> disposable so I can pitch it after one use...
>
> Thanks!
>
> I suggest you not use paper in any form on a canopy. Water and bare
> hands (if clean) work well but are not always practical. My canopy
> accumulates enough bugs and dirt that I don't reuse any cloth. Plain
> cotton T-shirt material with a good cleaner works very well. Use the
> cloth once and throw it in the laundry. There are several good cleaners
> available but I like Brillianize best. It can be sprayed on in
> sufficient volume to soften bugs and leaves a polished surface. It can
> be bought in gallon bottles and transferred to a small spritzer bottle.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
>
>
Message 44
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--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 6/28/2004 8:43:53 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
sportpilot@moneypit.com writes:
anyone used RainX to keep it slippery ?
=======================================
If memory serves, RainX is a silicone grease dissolved in an isopropanol
solvent, so it should be okay on the acrylic every once in a while. I sure like
it on auto glass.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 703 hrs)
Message 45
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> anyone used RainX to keep it slippery ?
>
> or does that harm it.. ?
>
I have heard that it doesn't harm plexi, but... I did a test. I put
RainX on the left half of my 6A windscreen, and nothing on the right
side. I then found a little rain to fly through and discovered
absolutely no difference between the two halves. There are people who
swear by it, but do the side by side test. Works wonders on my auto
windshield, does nothing on the plexi.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 489 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 46
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ned Thomas" <923te@cox.net>
I called RainX. They said not to use it on pleiglass that it may cause
crazing, cracking and yellowing.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Pledge?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
<alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
> > anyone used RainX to keep it slippery ?
> >
> > or does that harm it.. ?
> >
>
> I have heard that it doesn't harm plexi, but... I did a test. I put
> RainX on the left half of my 6A windscreen, and nothing on the right
> side. I then found a little rain to fly through and discovered
> absolutely no difference between the two halves. There are people who
> swear by it, but do the side by side test. Works wonders on my auto
> windshield, does nothing on the plexi.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 489 hours
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
Message 47
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Alex Peterson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> > anyone used RainX to keep it slippery ?
> >
> > or does that harm it.. ?
> >
>
> I have heard that it doesn't harm plexi, but... I did a test. I put
> RainX on the left half of my 6A windscreen, and nothing on the right
> side. I then found a little rain to fly through and discovered
> absolutely no difference between the two halves. There are people who
> swear by it, but do the side by side test. Works wonders on my auto
> windshield, does nothing on the plexi.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 489 hours
Works great on a Harley Plexi windshield... Must be the speed.......
Phil in Illinois
Message 48
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
I went to my local fabic store and asked for the softest fabric they had. I
got a couple of yards of flanel very cheap. Well worth it.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Burton
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge?
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Is there anything you like using other then paper towels to clean your
canopy? I'd like to find something less likely to scratch and disposable so
I can pitch it after one use...
Thanks!
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge?
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> JusCash@aol.com wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
> >
> >Maybe an "old wives tale," I was told years ago not to use the lemon
version
> >because of some reaction with the plastic. Have been using the regular
for 20
> >years with no problem.
> >
> >Cash Copeland
> >RV-6 150hrs and counting
> >Hayward, Ca
> >
> You don't want to use anything with ammonia in it. Like Windex etc.
> Haven't heard anything against the 'lemon' .... which may nt be real
> anyway!!!
> Linn
>
> >
> >In a message dated 6/28/2004 6:38:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> >Larry@bowenaero.com writes:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
> >
> >Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy?
> >
> >-
> >Larry Bowen
> >Larry@BowenAero.com
> >http://BowenAero.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 49
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--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
David Burton wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>
>Is there anything you like using other then paper towels to clean your
>canopy?
>
Never, ever, use paper towels to clean your windshield! It's a tree!!!
Baby diapers work very well ..... use 'em and wash 'em. Any soft cloth
will be OK for your windshield.
Linn
> I'd like to find something less likely to scratch and disposable so
>I can pitch it after one use...
>
Well, the baby diapers aren't really disposable ..... but if it's
disposable, it's probably rougher than a cob.
>
>Thanks!
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Pledge?
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>>
>>JusCash@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
>>>
>>>Maybe an "old wives tale," I was told years ago not to use the lemon
>>>
>>>
>version
>
>
>>>because of some reaction with the plastic. Have been using the regular
>>>
>>>
>for 20
>
>
>>>years with no problem.
>>>
>>>Cash Copeland
>>>RV-6 150hrs and counting
>>>Hayward, Ca
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>You don't want to use anything with ammonia in it. Like Windex etc.
>>Haven't heard anything against the 'lemon' .... which may nt be real
>>anyway!!!
>>Linn
>>
>>
>>
>>>In a message dated 6/28/2004 6:38:06 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
>>>Larry@bowenaero.com writes:
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>>>
>>>Is lemon pledge still the favorite cleaner for the canopy?
>>>
>>>-
>>>Larry Bowen
>>>Larry@BowenAero.com
>>>http://BowenAero.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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