Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:58 AM - Re: Flaps--Big Picture? (Jeff Point)
2. 01:00 AM - Re: Fuel Float Wire bends (Jeff Point)
3. 01:52 AM - Virus alert (j1j2h3@juno.com)
4. 04:04 AM - Re: Flaps--Big Picture? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
5. 04:35 AM - Re: engine seminars at oshkosh (Art Glaser)
6. 04:37 AM - Re: Re: engine seminars at oshkosh (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
7. 04:51 AM - Re: Fuel Float Wire bends (DAVID REEL)
8. 06:49 AM - Re: Fluting Questions... (not processed: message from valid local se... (HalBenjamin@aol.com)
9. 07:02 AM - RVs on Cap Cod (HalBenjamin@aol.com)
10. 07:15 AM - Re: Fluting Questions... (not processed: message from valid local sender) (Pat Hatch)
11. 08:05 AM - Re: Flaps--Big Picture? (Dan Checkoway)
12. 08:34 AM - Re: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop (Hal / Carol Kempthorne)
13. 08:58 AM - Countersinking Question... (Matt Johnson)
14. 09:12 AM - Re: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop (thomas a. sargent)
15. 10:31 AM - xm satellite weather (Shemp)
16. 11:15 AM - Re: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop (Stein Bruch)
17. 12:36 PM - Re: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop (Hal / Carol Kempthorne)
18. 01:08 PM - Re: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop (Tommy Walker)
19. 03:14 PM - stiffeners for the 7 rudder (Jeff Cours)
20. 03:41 PM - Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder (BGCrook@aol.com)
21. 03:47 PM - Pitot tube line? (BGCrook@aol.com)
22. 04:02 PM - Re: 12 V Receptical (Nielsen Mark)
23. 04:49 PM - Re: Pitot tube line? (Ben Cunningham)
24. 05:23 PM - Re: 12V receptacle (Rick Galati)
25. 05:24 PM - Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder (Karie Daniel)
26. 05:40 PM - Re: Pitot tube line? (BGCrook@aol.com)
27. 06:04 PM - Re: Pitot tube line? (Ron Walker)
28. 06:27 PM - Re: Pitot tube line? (Ron Walker)
29. 06:36 PM - Re: Sensenich Fixed-Pitch Prop (Gary Zilik)
30. 06:38 PM - Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder (Gary Zilik)
31. 07:25 PM - Re: Pitot tube line? (Are Barstad)
32. 08:58 PM - Re: Countersinking Question... (not processed: message from valid local sender) (Eustace Bowhay)
33. 10:17 PM - Rivet Direction, does it matter? (Matt Johnson)
34. 10:52 PM - Re: Pitot tube line? (Jeff Point)
35. 11:46 PM - Re: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed: message from valid local sender) ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Flaps--Big Picture? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
It is much easier to drill the rear spar attach point with the flap off.
Jeff Point
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Float Wire bends |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
IIRC, you can tell the left from right by using the pre-drilled holes in
the access cover. The left and right are off slightly, and putting one
in the wrong hole will be obvious, as it is tilted 20 deg or so sideways.
Jeff Point
RV-6 72 hours
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 3
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aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
Beware of files sent by rv6capt@pacificcoast.net. Two different files
sent to me by this source contained viruses.
Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage
Do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Flaps--Big Picture? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Don,
I have read Dan C. and Steins replies to you. I took the other approach and
like it. Put just the pin in the hinge of the wing and see where the hole
wants to be -- exactly in line with the pin. Mark the aileron bracket and drill
the hole. This will let the flap hinge pin come out, even if the ailerons are
installed. Now for the trick! When you install the flap hinge pin, leave it
long enough to extend out both ends. The fuselage will keep it from moving
inboard. To keep it from moving outboard just bend the end about 1/8 of an
inch so it misses the hole in the flap bracket. That means bending about the
last inch or so of the pin. Now when you want to remove the pin you just reach
up with pliers, spring it 1/8 inch until it starts into the hole, and it can be
slid out. With the offset, it can never get itself started into the hole.
Round both ends of the pin on your Scotchbrite wheel.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Finally flying -- about 4 hours into phase I.)
In a message dated 7/9/04 7:33:17 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
dpharker@worldnet.att.net writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Don Harker" <dpharker@worldnet.att.net>
>
>
> I have finished the left wing in my 7A and have the flap and aileron
> attached. I have reviewed the wing/fuselage assembly instructions and don't
> understand why I need to split the flap hinge pin or drill a hole in the
> aileron bracket.
>
> Must the wing be mated to the fuselage without the flap attached? Or are
> these instructions for flap removal at some future point in time. If I have
> to remove the flap why can't I drill the hole in the aileron bracket then?
>
> Trying to sort out big picture. Thanks
>
> Don Harker
> Gurnee IL
> 7A Wings
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: engine seminars at oshkosh |
--> RV-List message posted by: Art Glaser <airplane@megsinet.net>
Does anyone remember a post regarding an engine disassembly and
reassembly seminar at oshkosh? Who, When, Where? I believe it was
several hours over a couple of days.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: engine seminars at oshkosh |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 7/10/04 6:35:58 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
airplane@megsinet.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Art Glaser <airplane@megsinet.net>
>
> Does anyone remember a post regarding an engine disassembly and
> reassembly seminar at oshkosh? Who, When, Where? I believe it was
> several hours over a couple of days.
>
>
I attended at SnF. It was at the Mattituck tent.
Dan H (RV-7A)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Float Wire bends |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I'm building an 8A so I can't be sure how this applies to other models, but I also
had difficulty interpreting the instructions for bending the fuel float gauge
wires. The left and right sides are both shown in Van's installation instructions,
however, I found that the drawing for the right tank was misleading.
The wire wrapped end of the float should be forward instead of aft as shown
in the right wing tank drawing. With this change I was able to get the float
to move unrestricted throughout the tank. Hope this helps Scott.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Fluting Questions... (not processed: message from valid local |
se...
--> RV-List message posted by: HalBenjamin@aol.com
In a message dated 7/10/2004 12:10:06 AM Eastern Standard Time,
matt@n559rv.com writes:
> Does anyone have a closeup of a rib that has been fluted? I want to make
> sure that mine is correctly done. All the pictures I have found on
> the web have been too far away to really see the detail of the flute...
>
> Also, I know that many people in the pictures have full size plans
> showing the flute locations on the rib.
Hi Matt,
I don't have any pictures with me (On vacation). But it's pretty easy. Just
figure out where you are going to drill holes and flute between them. Flutes
usually don't have to be to deep, so just start slow and easy. You can
always make the flutes a little deeper if you need to. Be sure you check the ribs
a
good flat surface
& you'll be done in no time. Have fun!
Hal "Where's da paddle" Benjamin
RV-4 Canoe Stage
Vacationing on Cap Cod
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: HalBenjamin@aol.com
Listers,
Anyone building on Cap Cod? I'll be here for another week & can only take so
much of the beach!
Hal Benjamin
RV-4, From LI, NY
Do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Fluting Questions... (not processed: message from |
valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Matt,
It is not so much what the flute looks like but the final result achieved
that is important. What you want is for the rib to lie flat on a flat
surface, and the flanges should be 90 degrees to the web (in most cases). I
would attempt to get the flanges square first, then apply your flutes,
lightly at first to see what effect it has. You will soon learn which
direction and how much the web moves in relation to the flute...so you might
want to have some flutes deeper than others depending on how much the web
needs to move--usually the flutes are deeper in the center of the rib, for
example. Also, I try to flute every space between holes, even if only very
slightly in some places. Apply all your flutes lightly, check on a flat
surface, re-apply your flutes, check again. Occasionally you will "over
flute." You will know this because the web is now "out of flat" in the
opposite direction. So take your hand seamers and lightly squeeze some of
your flutes and check again. You will soon develop the skill needed to make
perfect ribs.
On some ribs, the flanges will not necessarily be 90 degrees; for example,
on the tapering horizontal stab, you may want to go slightly beyond the 90
to match the angle of the skin, but this is definitely advanced metal
working!
After you complete your flutes, go back and check your flange angles--they
may need a tweak or two. For this job it helps the have a small 90 degree
square, available at hobby shops for RC modelers. (Or you can make your own
out of balsa.)
Of course, you need to position your flutes between the holes! I just
eyeball mine; again, it is not important where the flutes are, just the
final result. I would not waste a lot of time trying to center the flute
exactly between the holes--close is close enough.
Hope this helps.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 All Flying
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fluting Questions... (not processed: message from valid
local sender)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> Does anyone have a closeup of a rib that has been fluted? I want to make
> sure that mine is correctly done. All the pictures I have found on
> the web have been too far away to really see the detail of the flute...
>
> Also, I know that many people in the pictures have full size plans
> showing the flute locations on the rib. My kit does not have this (in the
> plans or the preview plans). I just purchased the empennage kit a week
> ago so I am not sure if this is something that has been removed
> from the newer kits? What DWG plan number is it so I can see if it is
> missing?
>
> Thanks for the feedback.
>
> - Matt
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Flaps--Big Picture? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> It is much easier to drill the rear spar attach point with the flap off.
Absolutely. I wouldn't bother putting the control surfaces on until that
wing is squared up, incidence set, locked in.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
I had an 83" on my RV6a with 180hp and sold it to get an 85"
Full throttle at 7500 ft would give more than 2700 rpm with the 83".
hal
At 09:23 PM 7/9/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: LarryLicking@aol.com
>
>I failed to mention that I have an O-360, 180 hp engine. Again, does anyone
>know if the S Type cowl is the standard or the long version? Also,
>Sensenich's standard prop has 83", climb has 81", and cruise has 85". In
>a hot
>climate, perhaps the standard (83) may be a good compromise.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Countersinking Question... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
In the instructions, it talks about increasing the countersink "two clicks" to
accomidate a dimple when you are putting a dimple against a
countersink to make sure the metals are flat. In order for us to get the dimpled
sheet to lay flat we had to increase the countersink about
two full turns! and that was just enough to make the metal with the dimple lay
flat. Are we doing someting wrong? the goal is to have the
dimpled metal lay flat correct? two clicks did nothing... I dont want to continue
past this until I know we are doing it correctly, any feedback
would be appreciated, thanks.
- Matt
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Hal:
I also have an 83" sensenich. Back when I bought it, that was what they
were recommending. (They've offered to repitch it for me.) I'm not
flying yet, but what did your 83" prop do at higher altitudes? Here in
arizona, one can find oneself at 10,000 - 12,000 ft fairly often. I'm
guessing that when taking off from a 7000 ft runway at 100 degrees F.,
an 83" might be good to have.
Hal / Carol Kempthorne wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> I had an 83" on my RV6a with 180hp and sold it to get an 85"
>
> Full throttle at 7500 ft would give more than 2700 rpm with the 83".
>
> hal
> At 09:23 PM 7/9/2004, you wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: LarryLicking@aol.com
>>
>>I failed to mention that I have an O-360, 180 hp engine. Again, does anyone
>>know if the S Type cowl is the standard or the long version? Also,
>>Sensenich's standard prop has 83", climb has 81", and cruise has 85". In
>>a hot
>>climate, perhaps the standard (83) may be a good compromise.
>
>
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
Message 15
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| Subject: | xm satellite weather |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Has anyone tried using this service yet?
shemp
Message 16
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| Subject: | Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
I would concurr. It seems as of late that the 85" seems to be the best
compromise, give the new whell pant fairings etc.. With my 180hp & 85", I
can still run up to 2800+, even at altitude, and I fly out of a 1800' grass
strip with no troubles at all, climb is still fine. I've seen these twisted
up to 87", I know there are some RV8 guys around with 87" FP's around down
in IA.
Anyway, just my 2 cents.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hal / Carol
Kempthorne
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne
<kempthornes@earthlink.net>
I had an 83" on my RV6a with 180hp and sold it to get an 85"
Full throttle at 7500 ft would give more than 2700 rpm with the 83".
hal
At 09:23 PM 7/9/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: LarryLicking@aol.com
>
>I failed to mention that I have an O-360, 180 hp engine. Again, does
anyone
>know if the S Type cowl is the standard or the long version? Also,
>Sensenich's standard prop has 83", climb has 81", and cruise has 85". In
>a hot
>climate, perhaps the standard (83) may be a good compromise.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
I returned from Oshkosh last year with the 85" prop at high altitudes. It
was very smoky over the Sierra Nevada so I came direct from about Bishop to
Visalia at 17,999 feet. It was still willing to climb but I didn't have
IFR equipment. I have the newer 'pressure recovery' wheelpants and they
make a big difference.
hal
At 09:12 AM 7/10/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
>Hal:
> I also have an 83" sensenich. Back when I bought it, that was
> what they
>were recommending. (They've offered to repitch it for me.) I'm not
>flying yet, but what did your 83" prop do at higher altitudes? Here in
>arizona, one can find oneself at 10,000 - 12,000 ft fairly often. I'm
>guessing that when taking off from a 7000 ft runway at 100 degrees F.,
>an 83" might be good to have.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop |
Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 15:08:56 -0500
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
Try this little "Rule of Thumb" formula: Pitch x RPM /1125 MPH.
Tommy Walker
6A, Ridgetop, TN
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Hal / Carol Kempthorne
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 10, 2004 2:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
I returned from Oshkosh last year with the 85" prop at high altitudes. It
was very smoky over the Sierra Nevada so I came direct from about Bishop to
Visalia at 17,999 feet. It was still willing to climb but I didn't have
IFR equipment. I have the newer 'pressure recovery' wheelpants and they
make a big difference.
hal
At 09:12 AM 7/10/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
>Hal:
> I also have an 83" sensenich. Back when I bought it, that was
> what they
>were recommending. (They've offered to repitch it for me.) I'm not
>flying yet, but what did your 83" prop do at higher altitudes? Here in
>arizona, one can find oneself at 10,000 - 12,000 ft fairly often. I'm
>guessing that when taking off from a 7000 ft runway at 100 degrees F.,
>an 83" might be good to have.
Message 19
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| Subject: | stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
I've been fabricating the stiffeners for a newer 7-style rudder. I'm
almost done with them, and will probably finish by the time any
responses to this message come back, but I'm in this process to learn
and can't help but wonder if there's a better way.
So far, I've been cutting away the extra aluminum with snips, leaving it
wide of the line. Then I file to the line with an aluminum file, deburr,
finish on a scotch-brite wheel, and bend and flute as necessary (since
the snips tend to distort the soft stiffener stock) to get them flat
again. It works well, but it's a fairly slow process. Out of curiousity,
have any of you all come up with a better or faster method?
thanks,
Jeff
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
--> RV-List message posted by: BGCrook@aol.com
I used a Robin Craftsmen snip I got from Avery. Cuts a nice smooth burr free
line without distorting the metal. Then just scotchbrite and your done.
Bryon Crook
-7 wings
Message 21
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| Subject: | Pitot tube line? |
--> RV-List message posted by: BGCrook@aol.com
Hi all,
I'm getting ready to route my pitot line through the wing. I didn't
find any info on the plans as to how much tubing should extend out the root rib.
I have considered using a bulkhead union at the root rib instead. Later when
the wing was mated to the fuse, I could just make a line to connect the root
rib fitting to the fitting in the fuse. However, I don't know if this would
work as I have not seen how much room there is between the wing and the fuse.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Bryon Crook
-7 wings
Message 22
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| Subject: | RE: 12 V Receptical |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Nielsen Mark" <Mark.Nielsen@andritz.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
> I'm looking for a 12V plug-in receptacle for installation into the
instrument panel
> to occasionally power such things as a hand-held, etc. The power
receptacles
> I have seen look like they came out of a car.....okay I suppose....
just not
> for me. Does anyone know of a source I can check out for a suitable
receptacle
> that suggests "aircraft" instead of "automobile"?
>
>
Rick,
I installed two 12V power jacks: 1) a standard cigar lighter jack under
the panel where it is out of the way but easily accessible, and 2) a
panel mounted, small diameter power jack similar to the jacks that you
see in the myriad of electronic devices with AC power converters. I
bought the power jacks and mating plugs at Radio Shack.
I use the small jack to power a handheld GPS that's mounted in my panel.
I cut the "cigarette lighter" adapter cord that came with the GPS short,
to the exact length I needed and installed the mating plug for the small
panel-mounted jack. I also installed an in-line jack in the other cut
end of the adapter cord. That leaves open the option of using the GPS
with the cigarette lighter adapter away from the airplane.
Note: In over seven years of flying, I have used the cigar lighter
power jack once -- to power a hand-held radio when my panel-mounted
radio went belly-up.
Mark Nielsen
RV-6; 920 hours
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube line? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ben Cunningham" <benandginny@insightbb.com>
Bryon,
This is an issue I have put off a long time. (I'm currently close to
finishing the finish kit.) I would like to transition from the alum tubing
to flexible tubing but I can't decide where to do it. (Obviously before
entering the fuse somewhere) My thoughts are to take the alum tube to the
last rib then transition to flexible tubing there. The length to be
determined much later in the project.
Ben Cunningham
Louisville, KY
RV7 N701VF
Crossflow Subaru
----- Original Message -----
From: <BGCrook@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pitot tube line?
> --> RV-List message posted by: BGCrook@aol.com
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm getting ready to route my pitot line through the wing. I didn't
> find any info on the plans as to how much tubing should extend out the
root rib.
>
> I have considered using a bulkhead union at the root rib instead. Later
when
> the wing was mated to the fuse, I could just make a line to connect the
root
> rib fitting to the fitting in the fuse. However, I don't know if this
would
> work as I have not seen how much room there is between the wing and the
fuse.
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions?
>
> Bryon Crook
> -7 wings
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: 12V receptacle |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Many thanks to all who responded to my query both on and off list regarding the
12V receptacle question. So many helpful responses provided me with a fresh
perspective and new ways of thinking through the subject. I'm still not 100%
sure how I will proceed but thanks to your valued input, I do know this. At
the end of the day "Darla" will have a receptacle (or two) installed, but the
casual observer viewing from the perspective of the flight line will never know
it.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Your process seems OK but I'm fairly sure that the stiffeners don't get or
need to be fluted.
Karie Daniel
RV-7A
QB In Progress
Sammamish, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Cours" <rv-j@moriarti.org>
Subject: RV-List: stiffeners for the 7 rudder
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>
> I've been fabricating the stiffeners for a newer 7-style rudder. I'm
> almost done with them, and will probably finish by the time any
> responses to this message come back, but I'm in this process to learn
> and can't help but wonder if there's a better way.
>
> So far, I've been cutting away the extra aluminum with snips, leaving it
> wide of the line. Then I file to the line with an aluminum file, deburr,
> finish on a scotch-brite wheel, and bend and flute as necessary (since
> the snips tend to distort the soft stiffener stock) to get them flat
> again. It works well, but it's a fairly slow process. Out of curiousity,
> have any of you all come up with a better or faster method?
>
> thanks,
> Jeff
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube line? |
--> RV-List message posted by: BGCrook@aol.com
How is the flexible tubing connected to the alum tubing? My thought was that
I could install the bulkhead union fitting in the root rib. If I could connect
the flexible tubing to this fitting I could make the transition there at the
root rib.
Is this possible? I'm not familar with how the flexible tubing connects.
Bryon Crook
-7 wings
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube line? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
I used 3/8 OD nyloflex to connect to the instrument panel. Ran it down to
the left wing root under the pilots floor where the 3/8" AL tubing came in
from the wing. I connected them with some 3/8" ID tubing (from the aircraft
parts section of Lowes) ... it slipped snugly over both the AL and the
Nyloflex ... overlapped by about 6". Some tie wraps and bam - worked like a
charm. No leaks either !
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: <BGCrook@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube line?
> --> RV-List message posted by: BGCrook@aol.com
>
> How is the flexible tubing connected to the alum tubing? My thought was
that
> I could install the bulkhead union fitting in the root rib. If I could
connect
> the flexible tubing to this fitting I could make the transition there at
the
> root rib.
>
> Is this possible? I'm not familar with how the flexible tubing connects.
>
> Bryon Crook
> -7 wings
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube line? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
Ooops ... Now that I think a bit more ... it may have been 1/4 OD nyloflex
with 1/4 ID tube joining it ... but I'm sure you get the picture.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube line?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
>
> I used 3/8 OD nyloflex to connect to the instrument panel. Ran it down to
> the left wing root under the pilots floor where the 3/8" AL tubing came in
> from the wing. I connected them with some 3/8" ID tubing (from the
aircraft
> parts section of Lowes) ... it slipped snugly over both the AL and the
> Nyloflex ... overlapped by about 6". Some tie wraps and bam - worked like
a
> charm. No leaks either !
>
> Ron
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <BGCrook@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube line?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: BGCrook@aol.com
> >
> > How is the flexible tubing connected to the alum tubing? My thought was
> that
> > I could install the bulkhead union fitting in the root rib. If I could
> connect
> > the flexible tubing to this fitting I could make the transition there at
> the
> > root rib.
> >
> > Is this possible? I'm not familar with how the flexible tubing connects.
> >
> > Bryon Crook
> > -7 wings
> >
> >
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Fixed-Pitch Prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
I think the s-cowl is the old standard cowl length. The fixed pitch guys
of old had longer cowls to get the prop a little further forward to
maybe help cg issues. I do know that you want to order the Sensenich
with a 2.25" spacer for the S-type cowl.
Also the little rule of thumb (pitch * rpm /1125 = mph) is amazingly
accurate.
I had a 6A running 83 pitch in Denver and would of rather had 85" of
pitch. I swapped the whole thing out for a CS and really like the 180
CS performance.
Gary
LarryLicking@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: LarryLicking@aol.com
>
>Hello All,
>
>I must soon choose a prop for my RV6A, and have definitely (nearly) decided
>on a Sensenich prop. Their web site lists props for a standard cowl and for a
>long cowl. Vans sent an S type cowl, but I cannot determine if this is a std
>or long. Anyone have any idea on this?
>
>Next, what are your experiences with the climb, cruise and standard pitches?
>This may have been covered many times before on this site, but any thoughts
>would be appreciated.
>
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
I cut mine for my old slow-build six by making a simple jig for my table
saw. A carbide tipped blade works wonders. Most wood working tools work
well with aluminum.
Gary
Jeff Cours wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>
>I've been fabricating the stiffeners for a newer 7-style rudder. I'm
>almost done with them, and will probably finish by the time any
>responses to this message come back, but I'm in this process to learn
>and can't help but wonder if there's a better way.
>
>So far, I've been cutting away the extra aluminum with snips, leaving it
>wide of the line. Then I file to the line with an aluminum file, deburr,
>finish on a scotch-brite wheel, and bend and flute as necessary (since
>the snips tend to distort the soft stiffener stock) to get them flat
>again. It works well, but it's a fairly slow process. Out of curiousity,
>have any of you all come up with a better or faster method?
>
>thanks,
>Jeff
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Pitot tube line? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Are Barstad" <are_barstad@norlogic.com>
I used nyloflex in the entire wing... almost all the way to the heated
pitot/static. I only left approx. 4" of alum tubing between the nyloflex and
tube to avoid heat melting the nylon. It's now 2 1/2 years ago but I seem to
remember that this was what was recommended.
Are
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Walker
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube line?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
I used 3/8 OD nyloflex to connect to the instrument panel. Ran it down to
the left wing root under the pilots floor where the 3/8" AL tubing came in
from the wing. I connected them with some 3/8" ID tubing (from the aircraft
parts section of Lowes) ... it slipped snugly over both the AL and the
Nyloflex ... overlapped by about 6". Some tie wraps and bam - worked like a
charm. No leaks either !
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: <BGCrook@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot tube line?
> --> RV-List message posted by: BGCrook@aol.com
>
> How is the flexible tubing connected to the alum tubing? My thought was
that
> I could install the bulkhead union fitting in the root rib. If I could
connect
> the flexible tubing to this fitting I could make the transition there at
the
> root rib.
>
> Is this possible? I'm not familar with how the flexible tubing connects.
>
> Bryon Crook
> -7 wings
>
>
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Countersinking Question... (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
I cut pieces of scrap 3/4 X 2 1/2 of the various thicknesses then drill them
1/2 in from one end deburr and dimple. These simulate the skins you are
countersinking for. I lay the piece with the dimple into the countersink and
deepen the countersink until the piece will lay flat. If the countersink
gets too deep the dimple will lay flat but will move in the countersink.
This gives the correct setting.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Countersinking Question... (not processed: message from
valid local sender)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> In the instructions, it talks about increasing the countersink "two
clicks" to accomidate a dimple when you are putting a dimple against a
> countersink to make sure the metals are flat. In order for us to get the
dimpled sheet to lay flat we had to increase the countersink about
> two full turns! and that was just enough to make the metal with the dimple
lay flat. Are we doing someting wrong? the goal is to have the
> dimpled metal lay flat correct? two clicks did nothing... I dont want to
continue past this until I know we are doing it correctly, any feedback
> would be appreciated, thanks.
>
> - Matt
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Rivet Direction, does it matter? |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I am about to rivet the HS-404, 405, 702 and 710 together for the front
spar and ribs on the HS but this question applies in general to all
riveting. Does it matter which direction the rivet goes in and which
side is the shop head? I noticed the plans dont distinctly say so I
imagine
it doesnt, can someone confirm or correct me on this?
- Matt
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube line? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
You can connect fllexible tubing to AN flared fittings, by using the
flaring tool on the nylon tube. This is an acceptable way to connect
nylon and Al tube, and is the way I did it. But, as was pointed out to
me afterword, it is probably overkill. Use a larger diameter tube to
slip over the ends of both to make the connection. This has worked well
for many others. I'd also leave a couple of feet of Al tube past the
end rib, you can always trim it down later when you decide where to make
the transition.
Jeff Point
>
>Is this possible? I'm not familar with how the flexible tubing connects.
>
>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Matt,
Put the round head on the side with the thinner piece of metal. It prevents the
edges of the flange from curling up as bad.
Scott
7A WIngs
--- On Sun 07/11, Matt Johnson < matt@n559rv.com > wrote:
From: Matt Johnson [mailto: matt@n559rv.com]
Subject: RV-List: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I am about to rivet the HS-404, 405, 702 and 710 together for the front
spar and ribs on the HS but this question applies in general to all
riveting. Does it matter which direction the rivet goes in and which
side is the shop head? I noticed the plans dont distinctly say so I
imagine
it doesnt, can someone confirm or correct me on this?
- Matt
============
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