Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:18 AM - Re: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop (Jim Sears)
2. 03:48 AM - Re: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (LarryRobertHelming)
3. 04:42 AM - Vans "value added" when purchasing avionics? (lucky macy)
4. 06:31 AM - Dont trust this RV6 owner (mark phipps)
5. 06:39 AM - Paint on plexiglass (Don/Marcia Piermattei)
6. 07:00 AM - Re: Paint on plexiglass (David Burton)
7. 07:08 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 35 Msgs - 07/10/04 (Glen Matejcek)
8. 07:23 AM - Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder (Phil Birkelbach)
9. 07:30 AM - Re: Vans "value added" when purchasing avionics? (Ron Walker)
10. 08:11 AM - Re: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (Jim Oke)
11. 08:23 AM - Re: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (David Burton)
12. 08:23 AM - Re: Pitot tube line? (Jim Oke)
13. 09:04 AM - Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder (Dan Morrow)
14. 09:19 AM - Re: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed: message from va... (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
15. 10:07 AM - Part #A906 & A907-L wings alierons (sportpilot)
16. 10:21 AM - Re: Vans "value added" when purchasing avionics? (Karie Daniel)
17. 11:04 AM - Re: Paint on Plexi (Jim Duckett)
18. 11:33 AM - Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner (Konrad Werner)
19. 12:00 PM - Re: Re: Paint on Plexi (Kathleen (rv7))
20. 12:55 PM - Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner (mark phipps)
21. 02:00 PM - Re: Sensenich Fixed-Pitch Prop (J. R. Dial)
22. 02:19 PM - Re: Part #A906 & A907-L wings alierons (sportpilot)
23. 06:14 PM - Re: Fuel Float Wire bends (Charlie England)
24. 06:39 PM - Van's Turn Coordinator (Gary Liming)
25. 07:18 PM - Re: Re: engine seminars at oshkosh (Karie Daniel)
26. 07:29 PM - Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
27. 08:49 PM - Re: Fuel Float Wire bends ()
28. 09:22 PM - Re: Fuel Float Wire bends (Randy Lervold)
29. 09:39 PM - Re: Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner (Konrad Werner)
30. 10:46 PM - Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder (Jeff Cours)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
>
> Try this little "Rule of Thumb" formula: Pitch x RPM /1125 MPH.
>
> Tommy Walker
> 6A, Ridgetop, TN
>
> do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Hal / Carol Kempthorne
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, July 10, 2004 2:34 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Sensenich Fixed Pitch Prop
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne
<kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> I returned from Oshkosh last year with the 85" prop at high altitudes.
It
> was very smoky over the Sierra Nevada so I came direct from about Bishop
to
> Visalia at 17,999 feet. It was still willing to climb but I didn't have
> IFR equipment. I have the newer 'pressure recovery' wheelpants and
they
> make a big difference.
>
> hal
>
> At 09:12 AM 7/10/2004, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent"
<sarg314@earthlink.net>
> >
> >Hal:
> > I also have an 83" sensenich. Back when I bought it, that was
> > what they
> >were recommending. (They've offered to repitch it for me.) I'm not
> >flying yet, but what did your 83" prop do at higher altitudes? Here in
> >arizona, one can find oneself at 10,000 - 12,000 ft fairly often. I'm
> >guessing that when taking off from a 7000 ft runway at 100 degrees F.,
> >an 83" might be good to have.
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet Direction, does it matter? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
It can also reduce stress cracks from the expanding shop head in the thinner
material. There is no official rule about it from FAA that I can find, but
it makes sense to me to put, when practical/possible, the round head on the
side with the thinner material as previously advised. An experienced and
well schooled builder once told me that it was my plane and my life flying
in it. If you have a choice about doing it one way of the other, which way
do you want to go. Your choice.
Lack of information is not a concern, bad information is the real bummer.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed:
message from valid local sender)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
> Matt,
>
> Put the round head on the side with the thinner piece of metal. It
prevents the edges of the flange from curling up as bad.
>
> Scott
> 7A WIngs
>
>
> --- On Sun 07/11, Matt Johnson < matt@n559rv.com > wrote:
> From: Matt Johnson [mailto: matt@n559rv.com]
> To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 22:29:01 -0700
> Subject: RV-List: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed:
message from valid local sender)
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> I am about to rivet the HS-404, 405, 702 and 710 together for the front
> spar and ribs on the HS but this question applies in general to all
> riveting. Does it matter which direction the rivet goes in and which
> side is the shop head? I noticed the plans dont distinctly say so I
> imagine
> it doesnt, can someone confirm or correct me on this?
>
> - Matt
>
>
> ============
>
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Vans "value added" when purchasing avionics? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Is there any advantage to ordering avionics from Van's vs. some other mail
order outfit like ACS?
I once heard someone say they did but can't recall what the reasoning was
years later...
do not archive
lucky
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Dont trust this RV6 owner |
--> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com>
Listers, Watch out for RV6 owner and RV10 builder Steve Dinieri of New York. He
came on the list 3 months ago looking for a rudder for his six. I agreed to sell
him an extra I had and made the mistake of sending it to him before I was
paid. Guess what, 3 months later and no money, says he is too busy. My mistake
evidently. If you deal with this person or know him, make sure you get paid first.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A, Almost Flying
Do Not Archive
---------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | Paint on plexiglass |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don/Marcia Piermattei" <dlpier@lamar.colostate.edu>
Does anyone out there have a suggestion on removing paint from plexiglass?
Poor masking left me with a few streaks.
Don Piermattei
RV-9A N 192DP
Donald L. Piermattei DVM, PhD
5000 E County Rd 92
Carr, CO 80612
970/568-9047
Fax 970/568-7279
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Paint on plexiglass |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Kerosene or Stoddard solvent are the safest products to use. Take a look at
any aircraft windshield manufacturer's web site and they are likely to tell
you the same thing. Most other products are dangerous and the damage isn't
apparent until later... People will tell you that alcohol is safe. It is
not. I work in a hospital. Nurses wipe everything down with alcohol, even
when the instructions on the equipment specifically state not to use alcohol
to disinfect. There probably has been a billion dollars worth of medical
equipment ruined by cleaning with alcohol. Why repeat the same mistake over
and over? Use something known to be safe...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don/Marcia Piermattei" <dlpier@lamar.colostate.edu>
Subject: RV-List: Paint on plexiglass
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Don/Marcia Piermattei"
<dlpier@lamar.colostate.edu>
>
> Does anyone out there have a suggestion on removing paint from plexiglass?
> Poor masking left me with a few streaks.
>
> Don Piermattei
> RV-9A N 192DP
>
> Donald L. Piermattei DVM, PhD
> 5000 E County Rd 92
> Carr, CO 80612
> 970/568-9047
> Fax 970/568-7279
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 35 Msgs - 07/10/04 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
> Time: 03:47:45 PM PST US
> From: BGCrook@aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: Pitot tube line?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: BGCrook@aol.com
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm getting ready to route my pitot line through the wing. I didn't
> find any info on the plans as to how much tubing should extend out the
root rib.
>
>
> I have considered using a bulkhead union at the root rib instead. Later
when
> the wing was mated to the fuse, I could just make a line to connect the
root
> rib fitting to the fitting in the fuse. However, I don't know if this
would
> work as I have not seen how much room there is between the wing and the
fuse.
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions?
>
> Bryon Crook
> -7 wings
>
>
Hi Bryon-
I had a similar idea originaly. However, flaring the pitot line inside the
wing for the back side of the bulkhead union would be tricky, as would
installing the inbourd B nut of this union once the wing is on the plane.
What I've decided to do is leave about a foot and a half of my aluminum
pitot line protruding from the root rib and bent forward, almost parallel
to the rib. The pitot line from the instruments out the side of the fuse
will be flexible. Once I determine where exactly I want to exit the fuse
with this line, I'll shorten the aluminum line appropriately, slip the flex
line over the end of the aluminum line, and secure with a hose clamp.
Simple, easy, easy to work on in the extremely limited space between the
wing and fuse, and it eliminates three of the four joints / potential leaks
of the jumper / bulkhead union scheme I originallly considered.
FWIW
gm
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
Skip the file and go straight from the snips to the scotchbrite wheel.
Godspeed,
Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Cours" <rv-j@moriarti.org>
Subject: RV-List: stiffeners for the 7 rudder
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>
> I've been fabricating the stiffeners for a newer 7-style rudder. I'm
> almost done with them, and will probably finish by the time any
> responses to this message come back, but I'm in this process to learn
> and can't help but wonder if there's a better way.
>
> So far, I've been cutting away the extra aluminum with snips, leaving it
> wide of the line. Then I file to the line with an aluminum file, deburr,
> finish on a scotch-brite wheel, and bend and flute as necessary (since
> the snips tend to distort the soft stiffener stock) to get them flat
> again. It works well, but it's a fairly slow process. Out of curiousity,
> have any of you all come up with a better or faster method?
>
> thanks,
> Jeff
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Vans "value added" when purchasing avionics? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
I've bought 90% of the 'extra' stuff from ACS. I see two advantages ...
first - the turnaround time is alot quicker - at most, I wait 4 days for
anything from ACS. Second ... because I did buy so much from ACS, the
occasional time when I ordered the wrong part, or just plain needed to
return something, they waived the restocking fee most of the time.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Vans "value added" when purchasing avionics?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
> Is there any advantage to ordering avionics from Van's vs. some other mail
> order outfit like ACS?
>
> I once heard someone say they did but can't recall what the reasoning was
> years later...
>
>
> do not archive
>
> lucky
>
> http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet Direction, does it matter? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
But if the material thickness are the same, riveting should be arranged to
give the most convenient access to the rivet for bar & gun. The idea being
to make it as easy as possible to get a quality rivet. Note there are some
cases in an RV where a row of rivets may call for several heads to be
reversed to allow a later component or bit of structure to be installed.
Jim Oke
RV-3, RV-6A
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rivet Direction, does it matter?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
> It can also reduce stress cracks from the expanding shop head in the
thinner
> material. There is no official rule about it from FAA that I can find,
but
> it makes sense to me to put, when practical/possible, the round head on
the
> side with the thinner material as previously advised. An experienced and
> well schooled builder once told me that it was my plane and my life flying
> in it. If you have a choice about doing it one way of the other, which
way
> do you want to go. Your choice.
>
> Lack of information is not a concern, bad information is the real bummer.
>
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed:
> message from valid local sender)
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
> >
> >
> > Matt,
> >
> > Put the round head on the side with the thinner piece of metal. It
> prevents the edges of the flange from curling up as bad.
> >
> > Scott
> > 7A WIngs
> >
> >
> > --- On Sun 07/11, Matt Johnson < matt@n559rv.com > wrote:
> > From: Matt Johnson [mailto: matt@n559rv.com]
> > To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com, rv-list@matronics.com
> > Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2004 22:29:01 -0700
> > Subject: RV-List: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not
processed:
> message from valid local sender)
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
> >
> > I am about to rivet the HS-404, 405, 702 and 710 together for the front
> > spar and ribs on the HS but this question applies in general to all
> > riveting. Does it matter which direction the rivet goes in and which
> > side is the shop head? I noticed the plans dont distinctly say so I
> > imagine
> > it doesnt, can someone confirm or correct me on this?
> >
> > - Matt
> >
> >
> > ============
> >
> >
> > Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> > The most personalized portal on the Web!
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet Direction, does it matter? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Van's says that if it doesn't interfere with structure it makes no
difference. They agree that it makes intuitive sense to put the
manufactured head on the thin material, but if you are going to put a smile
on the material while driving the rivet it would be better to do it in the
thicker material... It's probably preferable to install it so that the best
quality rivet is obtained.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> I am about to rivet the HS-404, 405, 702 and 710 together for the front
> spar and ribs on the HS but this question applies in general to all
> riveting. Does it matter which direction the rivet goes in and which
> side is the shop head? I noticed the plans dont distinctly say so I
> imagine
> it doesnt, can someone confirm or correct me on this?
>
> - Matt
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot tube line? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
The simple answer is that there is not much room between the fuselage side
and the wing root rib. Getting things like wiring, fuel and vent lines
connected is enough of a struggle (unless you have skinny fingers about 8"
long!) that keeping the pitot connection simple is the best plan.
I made my 1/4" alum pitot line to fit with a grommet in the root rib and
then put a 90 bend about 1" past the rib and ran it parallel to the rib
forward about 12" to await further developments. Wait until you have the
fuselage done, the panel installed, and the routing of the pitot line
thought out re: bulkheads and support and exit point through the fuselage
side before getting too fancy.
As others have said, a simple joint with some plastic tubing slide over the
pitot line (from the wing) and some tiewraps or safety wire will do fine at
the end of the day.
Jim Oke
RV-3 RV-6A
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: <BGCrook@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pitot tube line?
> --> RV-List message posted by: BGCrook@aol.com
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm getting ready to route my pitot line through the wing. I didn't
> find any info on the plans as to how much tubing should extend out the
root rib.
>
> I have considered using a bulkhead union at the root rib instead. Later
when
> the wing was mated to the fuse, I could just make a line to connect the
root
> rib fitting to the fitting in the fuse. However, I don't know if this
would
> work as I have not seen how much room there is between the wing and the
fuse.
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions?
>
> Bryon Crook
> -7 wings
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Morrow" <DanFM01@butter.toast.net>
A bandsaw works very well for cutting stiffeners. Once you have the fence
set for the desired angle of the cut, you can cut them almost like on an
assembly line. In order to cut the shallow angle taper on one end, I had
to make a T shaped wooden adapter to fit the fence. The bandsaw doesn't
cause any distortion while cutting and gives a fairly smooth cut. All that
is required then is to finish them on the scotchbrite wheel. I have the
inexpensive Sears Craftsman variable speed model with a metal cutting
blade. For cutting thin aluminum, a fixed gear model with wood blade would
probably work fine. It's a rather expensive tool just to cut stiffeners,
but it is useful for other projects.
Dan Morrow
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Cours" <rv-j@moriarti.org>
Subject: RV-List: stiffeners for the 7 rudder
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>
> I've been fabricating the stiffeners for a newer 7-style rudder. I'm
> almost done with them, and will probably finish by the time any
> responses to this message come back, but I'm in this process to learn
> and can't help but wonder if there's a better way.
>
> So far, I've been cutting away the extra aluminum with snips, leaving it
> wide of the line. Then I file to the line with an aluminum file, deburr,
> finish on a scotch-brite wheel, and bend and flute as necessary (since
> the snips tend to distort the soft stiffener stock) to get them flat
> again. It works well, but it's a fairly slow process. Out of curiousity,
> have any of you all come up with a better or faster method?
>
> thanks,
> Jeff
>
>
---
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet Direction, does it matter? (not processed: message |
from va...
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
It is generally agreed that you want the shop head on the heavier gauge part.
This will usually result in less distortion of the shop head side part as
the head forms. I suggest you try squeezing and pounding several trial rivets
on some scrap just to see how this works before experimenting on your
experimental!
One thing that really worked well for me was to make some little donuts from
1/4" thick rubber sheet with a hole in the middle just big enough to hold it
on the shank of the rivet before you squeeze/pound. Just use it until the
rivet starts to expand, then remove and finish the rivet. Holds the rivet in
place on hard-to-access locations, but the main thing is that it will help make
sure there is no gap between the parts as the rivet begins to set.
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark - RV-6A N51PW 80+ hours & packing for OSH
Message 15
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| Subject: | Part #A906 & A907-L wings alierons |
--> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportpilot@moneypit.com>
ok, now I have a question, my plans are dated 11/15/99
kinda old, but on my left wing brackets A906 & A907-L
shows bolts holding them to the alieron and I don't
see
any that are that small, anyone know what bag those
are suppose to be in.. ? do those rivet in ? they show
bolts and washer with nuts.. Danny..
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Vans "value added" when purchasing avionics? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Lucky,
You have to just do your homework on any avionics you plan to buy. A good
example, I was Arlington yesterday and I was looking at buying the Dynon.
The guy at the Vans booth says it's cheaper on their website because of an
agreement. I checked and Dynon was offering the new model (not available for
shipping just yet) for $2100 at Arlington yesterday and Vans website appears
to $200 more than the Dynon direct price. Vans could be adding something
along with the unit like an install kit or something, I couldn't really tell
from the website.
Many times Vans does offer a better price but you will occasionally see
sales through Pacific Coast, Spruce or others of the like on a particular
instrument. It's perplexing but if you do your research you will be able to
save hundreds.
Karie Daniel
RV-7A
Looking for instruments too!
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Vans "value added" when purchasing avionics?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
> Is there any advantage to ordering avionics from Van's vs. some other mail
> order outfit like ACS?
>
> I once heard someone say they did but can't recall what the reasoning was
> years later...
>
>
> do not archive
>
> lucky
>
> http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | RE: Paint on Plexi |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
Hi Don,
As you probably know you want to be careful with what products you use
on your plexi to prevent degradation. Most thinners, reducers, and
petroleum distillates used in refinishing will immediately or eventually
craze the plastic.
If your "streaks" are light to moderate overspray then polishing is
probably the best route to take. There are several products we use that
have worked fine for us and haven't shown any signs of degradtion or
crazing over the years. Both Meguir's and Reflekt make polishes and
glazes without any silicones, waxes, or distillates for doing final
finishes on clear coats and they work just as well on plexi and lexan.
Don't use any compounds (anything above 6 Microns) or you'll have a hard
time polishing the haze out. Plus most compounds have distillates added
to them to aid in the cutting action.
Start with a finish polish, then a final glaze, and finish with a good
cleaning with Plexus. Bottom line is, use the finest polish or glaze
you can that will remove the blemishes.
If your streaks are opaque (numerous coats of finish) it becomes far
more labor intensive and involves a larger area of the plastic. Plus
you will have to do several more stages of polishing.
Probably the easiest way to explain it is to imagine a bullseye. The
center is your blemish and where you will use the most aggresive polish.
With each finer polish you work from the center outward extending past
the last polishing. Be sure to remove all of the previous polish before
starting a finer polishing pass.
This process takes a lot of time and patience to keep from hazing the
plastic or creating a "lens" in the canopy from heavy centralized
polishing using coarse polishes.
Hope this helps...
Jim Duckett N708JD
Jimmie Dee's Custom Hot Rod Shop
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
Dear Mark,
Sorry to hear that some RV'er is trying to not pay you for parts sent on good faith.
What is the amount he owes you? Does anybody in the list know this guy?
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: mark phipps
To: rv pst
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2004 7:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: Dont trust this RV6 owner
--> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com>
Listers, Watch out for RV6 owner and RV10 builder Steve Dinieri of New York.
He came on the list 3 months ago looking for a rudder for his six. I agreed to
sell him an extra I had and made the mistake of sending it to him before I was
paid. Guess what, 3 months later and no money, says he is too busy. My mistake
evidently. If you deal with this person or know him, make sure you get paid
first.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A, Almost Flying
Do Not Archive
---------------------------------
Message 19
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| Subject: | RE: Paint on Plexi |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen@rv7.us>
Jim,
I wasn't asking the question, but I was very interested in your response.
There good info out here and, unfortunately, some bad info. Rarely, does
one see a response that so clearly and logically explain the "what to do"
AND the "why" in such logical and practical terms. I've worked with Lexan
and see that you know exactly what you are talking about. Just had to say,
Thanks!
Do not archive
Kathleen
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Duckett
Subject: RV-List: RE: Paint on Plexi
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
Hi Don,
As you probably know you want to be careful with what products you use on
your plexi to prevent degradation. Most thinners, reducers, and petroleum
distillates used in refinishing will immediately or eventually craze the
plastic.
If your "streaks" are light to moderate overspray then polishing is probably
the best route to take. There are several products we use that have worked
fine for us and haven't shown any signs of degradtion or crazing over the
years. Both Meguir's and Reflekt make polishes and glazes without any
silicones, waxes, or distillates for doing final finishes on clear coats and
they work just as well on plexi and lexan.
Don't use any compounds (anything above 6 Microns) or you'll have a hard
time polishing the haze out. Plus most compounds have distillates added to
them to aid in the cutting action.
Start with a finish polish, then a final glaze, and finish with a good
cleaning with Plexus. Bottom line is, use the finest polish or glaze you
can that will remove the blemishes.
If your streaks are opaque (numerous coats of finish) it becomes far more
labor intensive and involves a larger area of the plastic. Plus you will
have to do several more stages of polishing.
Probably the easiest way to explain it is to imagine a bullseye. The center
is your blemish and where you will use the most aggresive polish.
With each finer polish you work from the center outward extending past the
last polishing. Be sure to remove all of the previous polish before
starting a finer polishing pass.
This process takes a lot of time and patience to keep from hazing the
plastic or creating a "lens" in the canopy from heavy centralized polishing
using coarse polishes.
Hope this helps...
Jim Duckett N708JD
Jimmie Dee's Custom Hot Rod Shop
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner |
--> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com>
Hi Conrad, Good to hear from you. He owes $200. I also was hoping someone on the
list knows this person. Sadly in these cases one of the two parties involved
has to send either the money or goods on faith. I would not have expected this
from a fellow RV'r.
Mark Phipps
Konrad Werner <klwerner@comcast.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner"
Dear Mark,
Sorry to hear that some RV'er is trying to not pay you for parts sent on good faith.
What is the amount he owes you? Does anybody in the list know this guy?
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: mark phipps
Subject: RV-List: Dont trust this RV6 owner
--> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps
Listers, Watch out for RV6 owner and RV10 builder Steve Dinieri of New York. He
came on the list 3 months ago looking for a rudder for his six. I agreed to sell
him an extra I had and made the mistake of sending it to him before I was
paid. Guess what, 3 months later and no money, says he is too busy. My mistake
evidently. If you deal with this person or know him, make sure you get paid first.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A, Almost Flying
Do Not Archive
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Sensenich Fixed-Pitch Prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
I am using the 85" with 180 HP XP-360 and it is perfect for all
round use. Plane is an RV6. Talk to Ed Zercher at Sensenich as he is the
guru and I would sure go with his advice. Yours uses short spacer.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LarryLicking@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Sensenich Fixed-Pitch Prop
--> RV-List message posted by: LarryLicking@aol.com
Hello All,
I must soon choose a prop for my RV6A, and have definitely (nearly)
decided
on a Sensenich prop. Their web site lists props for a standard cowl and
for a
long cowl. Vans sent an S type cowl, but I cannot determine if this is
a std
or long. Anyone have any idea on this?
Next, what are your experiences with the climb, cruise and standard
pitches?
This may have been covered many times before on this site, but any
thoughts
would be appreciated.
==
==
==
==
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Part #A906 & A907-L wings alierons |
--> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportpilot@moneypit.com>
Forgot to say its an RV-9A left wing
Subject: RV-List: Part #A906 & A907-L wings alierons
> --> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportpilot@moneypit.com>
>
>
> ok, now I have a question, my plans are dated 11/15/99
> kinda old, but on my left wing brackets A906 & A907-L
> shows bolts holding them to the alieron and I don't
> see
> any that are that small, anyone know what bag those
> are suppose to be in.. ? do those rivet in ? they show
> bolts and washer with nuts.. Danny..
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Float Wire bends |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
>All,
>
>
>I am finishing up the 2nd (right) wing and tank on my RV7a. I am using the standard
Stewart Warner floats, and I have run into a problem. I had no problem
on the left, but it appears that the float will hit the stiffener on the right
if I bend it per the bending instructions included with the floats. I saw Randy
Lervold posted this exact same question quite some time ago in the archives,
but it never got answered. Should I just bend it to fit? Is there any way
to tell the difference between the right and left senders? I have one of the
385B and 385C, but I thought they might be mixed up in the C box.
>
>Thanks,
>Scott
>7A Wings
>www.scottsrv7a.com
>
I haven't gotten to the point of bending wires yet, but my B & C senders
look identical to me. I'd love to see an answer also.
Charlie
Message 24
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| Subject: | Van's Turn Coordinator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Liming <gary@liming.org>
Could someone please post the current draw and recommended (by the factory)
fuse requirements for the T/C that Van's sells?
Thanks,
Gary Liming
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: engine seminars at oshkosh |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Here is the EAA link to all of the engine seminars at Oshkosh.
http://www.airventure.org/forums/interest.asp?EventID=12&InterestID=68
Cheers!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Art Glaser" <airplane@megsinet.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: engine seminars at oshkosh
> --> RV-List message posted by: Art Glaser <airplane@megsinet.net>
>
> Does anyone remember a post regarding an engine disassembly and
> reassembly seminar at oshkosh? Who, When, Where? I believe it was
> several hours over a couple of days.
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I too got no payment from a "Noo Yawker" way back when I was selling landing
lights. I don't even remember his name, some Italian sounding name.
He only cheated me out of fifty bucks or so.
I sold more than 400 sets of lights and he was the only deadbeat I found.
That makes a great percentage of RV'ers the best people in the country and other
countries also.
I'm sorry you got hit so hard,but your posting may save someone else from the
crook !!
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Float Wire bends |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Charlie,
After checking with others and finishing the 2nd tank this weekend, I am confident
that the picture for the right wing float bends is wrong. If you look real
close as you go along, it will be real apparent what is the proper way to bend
that arm.
As for distinguishing between the two senders...I am told of a couple ways:
1) hold the sender with the arm poiting down and away. The "SW" will be on the
right side if it is the right tank and the left side if it is the left tank.
2) Position the sender in the tank with the white part facing down...if it is incorrect
the alignment will be off 20 degrees or so.
Scott
7A Wings - 1.75 done
www.scottsrv7a.com
--- On Sun 07/11, Charlie England < ceengland@bellsouth.net > wrote:
From: Charlie England [mailto: ceengland@bellsouth.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Float Wire bends
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
>All,
>
>
>I am finishing up the 2nd (right) wing and tank on my RV7a. I am using the standard
Stewart Warner floats, and I have run into a problem. I had no problem
on the left, but it appears that the float will hit the stiffener on the right
if I bend it per the bending instructions included with the floats. I saw Randy
Lervold posted this exact same question quite some time ago in the archives,
but it never got answered. Should I just bend it to fit? Is there any way
to tell the difference between the right and left senders? I have one of the
385B and 385C, but I thought they might be mixed up in the C box.
>
>Thanks,
>Scott
>7A Wings
>www.scottsrv7a.com
>
I haven't gotten to the point of bending wires yet, but my B & C senders
look identical
to me. I'd love to see an answer also.
Charlie
/rv-list
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Float Wire bends |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> I am finishing up the 2nd (right) wing and tank on my RV7a. I am using
the standard Stewart Warner floats, and I have run into a problem. I had no
problem on the left, but it appears that the float will hit the stiffener on
the right if I bend it per the bending instructions included with the
floats. I saw Randy Lervold posted this exact same question quite some time
ago in the archives, but it never got answered. Should I just bend it to
fit? Is there any way to tell the difference between the right and left
senders? I have one of the 385B and 385C, but I thought they might be mixed
up in the C box.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Wings
> www.scottsrv7a.com
Scott, as i recall the answer is to simply put the float in from the other
side and it avoids the stiffener completely.
Randy Lervold
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
Bob,
> . . . Some Italian sounding name? <
His name was not "Dinieri", was it ?
Just wondering?
Konrad
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Oldsfolks@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2004 8:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I too got no payment from a "Noo Yawker" way back when I was selling landing
lights. I don't even remember his name, some Italian sounding name.
He only cheated me out of fifty bucks or so.
I sold more than 400 sets of lights and he was the only deadbeat I found.
That makes a great percentage of RV'ers the best people in the country and other
countries also.
I'm sorry you got hit so hard,but your posting may save someone else from the
crook !!
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
Thanks for all the suggestions!
The reason for the fluting is that the snips were mildly distorting the
stiffeners. They come straight/flat from the factory, but the snips made
them slightly concave. Since the stiffeners pretty much control the
shape of the rudder's skin, I wanted to make sure they had the right
shape. I was able to mostly straighten them with seamers but had to
flute a bit to get them completely flat again.
One one of them, I did try going straight from the snips to the
scotchbrite wheel, but it was slow going: for the taper, there were
places I had to leave quite a bit of aluminum. I think the file was
faster...
I guess there's a bandsaw, a belt sander, or both in my future. :-)
thanks again!
Jeff
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