Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:42 AM - Re: Kim's first flight in N82JN!!! (Imfairings@aol.com)
2. 04:25 AM - Re: gradual peak EGT creep - significance? (SportAV8R@aol.com)
3. 04:31 AM - Steinair harness (Dana Overall)
4. 05:09 AM - Re: indicator lights (sjhdcl@kingston.net)
5. 06:49 AM - Re: Steinair harness (Dale Mitchell)
6. 06:52 AM - Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder (Ed Holyoke)
7. 07:49 AM - The Air Beetle (Rick Galati)
8. 08:23 AM - Re: The Air Beetle (Ed Holyoke)
9. 09:04 AM - How many forum members does it takes to change a light bulb? not really RV related, but... (flmike)
10. 01:16 PM - Re: How many forum members does it takes to change a light bulb? not really RV related, but... (Scott Vanartsdalen)
11. 01:16 PM - Re: The Air Beetle (Scott Vanartsdalen)
12. 01:30 PM - Question for engine gurus (rebibb@comcast.net)
13. 01:30 PM - Re: How many forum members does it takes to change a light bulb? not really RV related, but... (R. Craig Chipley)
14. 02:18 PM - Re: Question for engine gurus (linn walters)
15. 03:33 PM - Re: Question for engine gurus (Mike Robertson)
16. 03:48 PM - Re: Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner (Alan McKeen)
17. 04:19 PM - Re: Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner (mark phipps)
18. 04:41 PM - Re: Determining Compression Ratio (Tom Barnes)
19. 04:58 PM - Re: Determining Compression Ratio (Charlie England)
20. 05:24 PM - Re: Question for engine gurus (Ken Beene)
21. 05:38 PM - Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder (Charlie England)
22. 05:39 PM - Re: Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner (Kevin Horton)
23. 05:39 PM - Matco MC-5 Brake Master Cylinder (Ken Brooks)
24. 05:54 PM - Re: Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner (mark phipps)
25. 05:57 PM - Re: Question for engine gurus (Hal / Carol Kempthorne)
26. 06:06 PM - Re: Question for engine gurus (Richard Bibb)
27. 06:07 PM - Re: The Air Beetle (Jerry Springer)
28. 07:06 PM - Re: Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner (cgalley)
29. 07:24 PM - Re: don't trust this RV 6 guy (Donald Mei)
30. 08:43 PM - Re: Re: don't trust this RV 6 guy (Jerry Springer)
31. 10:53 PM - Re: Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner (Stan J. Jones)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Kim's first flight in N82JN!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Imfairings@aol.com
Congratulations Kim on your first flight.
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc
Message 2
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| Subject: | gradual peak EGT creep - significance? |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
I'm monitoring all 4 for EGT and CHT, but with the page I default to, I only usually
look at #3's values in flight (older model with limited display abilities)
do not archive
In a message dated 7/12/2004 2:36:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time, "Kathleen (rv7)"
<Kathleen@rv7.us> writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen@rv7.us>
>
>Dan raised the issue of finding these problems through having constant
>monitoring of EGT for all cylinders. He's right. You can't live without
>it. We recently lost a Mooney 201, and almost our lives, because of
>partially clogged fuel injectors shortly after a warm day takeoff from a
>5000' msl mountain airport. With only 1 cylinder being monitored for EGT,
>the problem wasn't immediately apparent. Had we had 4-channel EGT, we may
>have landed back at the airport instead of cartwheeling along a steep rocky
>mountainside. In our case, Dan's 2 cents worth would have equaled avoiding
>the loss of a nice airplane and months in the hospital. Hmmm, let's see,
>that, or the cost of an EGT? A lesson hard learned. If you're not flying
>with all-cylinder EGT monitoring, you'd better give it some really serious
>thought. You can bet your hind quarters that I'm not flying anything
>without it...
>
>
>Kathleen Evans
>www.rv7.us
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: gradual peak EGT creep - significance?
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I'll bet it's ignition related. Turn off each mag in flight, one mag at a
>time. When you turn off the mag you should see a rise in EGT on all 4
>cylinders. If you don't see one or more cylinders' EGT rise, then you
>pretty much know you've got a spark/ignition issue there. If all four
>cylinders' EGTs rise when you turn off each mag, then you can rule out that
>possibility.
>
>On a recent flight I noticed cylinders 3 & 4 running hotter EGT than
>"normal," and when I shut of my one mag (running only on the EI), the engine
>ran rough at best. When I shut off the EI, only cylinders 1 & 2 EGTs
>rose...I knew immediately that the coil firing 3 & 4 wasn't doing its job.
>Traced the problem to a wiring fault, done deal.
>
>I got into a debate last week when I attended the FAA's seminar on "Modern
>Piston Engine Management." It was aimed at people running with fuel
>injection and all-cylinder EGT monitoring capability, because the topic of
>conversation was lean of peak operations. Right up my alley. But there
>were some people with carb+single probe EGT there...the discussion didn't
>really apply to them, but they asked if there was any rationalization for
>having a 4-probe EGT on their O-360. Most people said, "Don't spend the
>money, it's a waste." But I argue strongly on the other side of the fence.
>The more engine monitoring we have, the more quickly we can detect and
>diagnose a problem.
>
>Just my 2 cents (only partially relevant, sorry).
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <SportAV8R@aol.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: gradual peak EGT creep - significance?
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>>
>> I have a GRT engine monitor keeping watch over my Lycoming O-320 with
>fixed pitch Sensenich prop. For the past 6 years and 400 hours, I have had
>the monitor set to notify me at an upper limit EGT of 1520 F, to eliminate
>nuisance alarms. Typically, when I lean to peak, and sometimes beyond, the
>EGT will rise on #3 cylinder (the one I usually watch) to about 1510 and
>then drop. Of note, I can lean this carbureted engine to about 1480
>{lean-of-peak} without any roughness (but with noticable power loss). I lean
>agressively in cruise, to about peak, and then stop before power loss
>becomes a factor.
>>
>> Over the past three weeks, I have noticed a steady increase in the number
>of EGT over-temp alarms which require me to enrich the mixture to cancel
>them out. On a recent cross country, this became very annoying. I realize
>that absolute EGT readings are almost meaningless, and that one solution to
>the problem is to reset the alarm limits on the GRT monitor, but I want to
>know why the new trend has developed. Just for science, I went ahead and
>leaned to peak the other day and found my "new peak" occurred at 1539 F.
>This is 25 degrees higher than I had ever been able to push the EGT in the
>past 6 years. The engine otherwise runs normally.
>>
>> There has been no appreciable difference in fuel burn, static rpm or
>overall performance. Could this be: a thermocouple or instrument issue; a
>change in timing (e-gap, magneto points, etc); spring summer mogas blended
>differently this year than last season; or some other cause I haven't
>thought of? The engine is high-compression and has had nothing but 93
>octane mogas for the past few months; in past years I have been more
>consistent about running some 100LL through it every now and then. Oil
>analysis and compression tests don't point to anything wrong.
>>
>> Before I just reset my alarm limits and learn to live with new relative
>readings, I'd like to make sure there isn't more to be on the lookout for.
>Thoughts appreciated.
>>
>> -BB RV-6A 399 hrs
>>
>>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Steinair harness |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Just a head's up on Stein's service building harnesses. I just got my total
harness from Steinair, including a T-shirt, from Stein. It is nothing but
professional quality!!
I worked with Stein and sent him my various install kits along with
discussions on various lengths, various inputs, leaving some wires without
connectors to be completed by me, push to talk lengths, Dynon remote sensor
length. As a note, my panel harness included wiring between my
430/327/106A/EZ pilot autopilot/Dynon/MP3DVD player/Monroy traffic alert
voice. The harness I pulled out of the box has all the attention to detail
that make it a total package.
I just decided to keep it in house and use someone that enjoys the flying we
all do. Stein took care of getting it done professionally.
I couldn't have done this in months. I'll leave it up to Stein to discuss
prices with you as every harness would be different. Can you say, plug and
play?? In a morning I was able to temp. fire up the panel. Sweeeeeet
Thanks Stein, I see no reason not to keep it in house.
http://www.steinair.com
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | RE: indicator lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
Tried those. Had 5 of them in the last RV. They really need to be shielded
from direct sunlight. Not quite what I'm looking for.
Steve
RV7A
> Time: 10:33:40 AM PST US
> From: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Indicator Lights
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
>
> How about these?
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/legendlights.php
> Gary
>
> sjhdcl@kingston.net wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
>>
>>Anybody know where I can get some indicator lights made? I want the 1" by
>>1/4" (or so) lights that have word cutouts on them such as LOW VOLTAGE,
>>CANOPY OPEN, etc. Cirrus SR22 aircraft have lights like this. Sort of
>> like
>>most warning lights in cars.
>>
>>I've tried all sorts of lights on my last RV but never really liked any
>> of
>>them.
>>
>>Steve
>>RV7A - 70015 sold
>>RV7A - 71629
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Steinair harness |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
Iv ordered several electrical connectors from
Steinair.
They have good prices and quick shipping.
Iv been totally happy with them.
Dale Mitchell
RV-8A Minnesota wing
--- Dana Overall <bo124rs@hotmail.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall"
> <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> Just a head's up on Stein's service building
> harnesses. I just got my total
> harness from Steinair, including a T-shirt, from
> Stein. It is nothing but
> professional quality!!
>
> I worked with Stein and sent him my various install
> kits along with
> discussions on various lengths, various inputs,
> leaving some wires without
> connectors to be completed by me, push to talk
> lengths, Dynon remote sensor
> length. As a note, my panel harness included wiring
> between my
> 430/327/106A/EZ pilot autopilot/Dynon/MP3DVD
> player/Monroy traffic alert
> voice. The harness I pulled out of the box has all
> the attention to detail
> that make it a total package.
>
> I just decided to keep it in house and use someone
> that enjoys the flying we
> all do. Stein took care of getting it done
> professionally.
>
> I couldn't have done this in months. I'll leave it
> up to Stein to discuss
> prices with you as every harness would be different.
> Can you say, plug and
> play?? In a morning I was able to temp. fire up the
> panel. Sweeeeeet
>
> Thanks Stein, I see no reason not to keep it in
> house.
>
>
> http://www.steinair.com
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
> do not archive
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 6
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| Subject: | stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
I do most of my metal cutting with a cutoff wheel in an angle die
grinder. On thin aluminum it cuts like butter and you can go right to
the line. Just clamp the work down so it doesn't move and run a finger
along the edge of the bench to help steady the die grinder.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Cours
Subject: Re: RV-List: stiffeners for the 7 rudder
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
Thanks for all the suggestions!
The reason for the fluting is that the snips were mildly distorting the
stiffeners. They come straight/flat from the factory, but the snips made
them slightly concave. Since the stiffeners pretty much control the
shape of the rudder's skin, I wanted to make sure they had the right
shape. I was able to mostly straighten them with seamers but had to
flute a bit to get them completely flat again.
One one of them, I did try going straight from the snips to the
scotchbrite wheel, but it was slow going: for the taper, there were
places I had to leave quite a bit of aluminum. I think the file was
faster...
I guess there's a bandsaw, a belt sander, or both in my future. :-)
thanks again!
Jeff
==
==
==
==
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Anyone care to hazard a guess as to what an Air Beetle is before clicking on the
enclosed link?
http://www.dananig.com/air_betle.htm
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Isn't that the RV that Van's sold a bunch of to the Nigerian air force
as a primary trainer?
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati
Subject: RV-List: The Air Beetle
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Anyone care to hazard a guess as to what an Air Beetle is before
clicking on the enclosed link?
http://www.dananig.com/air_betle.htm
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
==
==
==
==
Message 9
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| Subject: | How many forum members does it takes to change a light bulb? |
not really RV related, but...
--> RV-List message posted by: flmike <flmike2001@yahoo.com>
Saw this on another forum.
In honor of recent threads:
How many forum members does it takes to change a light
bulb?
1 to change the light bulb and to post that the light
bulb has been changed
14 to share similar experiences of changing light
bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed
differently
7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs
1 to move it to the Lighting section
2 to argue then move it to the Electricals section
7 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about
changing light bulbs
5 to flame the spell checkers
3 to correct spelling/grammar flames
6 to argue over whether it's "lightbulb" or "light
bulb" ... another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid
2 industry professionals to inform the group that the
proper term is "lamp"
15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry,
and that "light bulb" is perfectly correct
19 to post that this forum is not about light bulbs
and to please take this discussion to a lightbulb
forum
11 to defend the posting to this forum saying that we
all use light bulbs and therefore the posts are
relevant to this forum
36 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is
superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what
brand of light bulbs work best for this technique and
what brands are faulty
7 to post URL's where one can see examples of
different light bulbs
4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and
then post the corrected URL's
3 to post about links they found from the URL's that
are relevant to this group which makes light bulbs
relevant to this group
13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their
entirety including all headers and signatures, and add
"Me too"
5 to post to the group that they will no longer post
because they cannot handle the light bulb controversy
4 to say "didn't we go through this already a short
time ago?"
13 to say "do a Google search on light bulbs before
posting questions about light bulbs"
1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6
months from now and start it all over again.
do not archive
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: How many forum members does it takes to change a light bulb? |
not really RV related, but...
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
What kind of primer should I use?
do not archive
flmike <flmike2001@yahoo.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: flmike
Saw this on another forum.
In honor of recent threads:
How many forum members does it takes to change a light
bulb?
1 to change the light bulb and to post that the light
bulb has been changed
14 to share similar experiences of changing light
bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed
differently
7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs
1 to move it to the Lighting section
2 to argue then move it to the Electricals section
7 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about
changing light bulbs
5 to flame the spell checkers
3 to correct spelling/grammar flames
6 to argue over whether it's "lightbulb" or "light
bulb" ... another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid
2 industry professionals to inform the group that the
proper term is "lamp"
15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry,
and that "light bulb" is perfectly correct
19 to post that this forum is not about light bulbs
and to please take this discussion to a lightbulb
forum
11 to defend the posting to this forum saying that we
all use light bulbs and therefore the posts are
relevant to this forum
36 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is
superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what
brand of light bulbs work best for this technique and
what brands are faulty
7 to post URL's where one can see examples of
different light bulbs
4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and
then post the corrected URL's
3 to post about links they found from the URL's that
are relevant to this group which makes light bulbs
relevant to this group
13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their
entirety including all headers and signatures, and add
"Me too"
5 to post to the group that they will no longer post
because they cannot handle the light bulb controversy
4 to say "didn't we go through this already a short
time ago?"
13 to say "do a Google search on light bulbs before
posting questions about light bulbs"
1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6
months from now and start it all over again.
do not archive
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: The Air Beetle |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
The Nigerian Air Force uses them. They also have RV grins!
Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati
Anyone care to hazard a guess as to what an Air Beetle is before clicking on the
enclosed link?
http://www.dananig.com/air_betle.htm
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 12
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| Subject: | Question for engine gurus |
0.5 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
--> RV-List message posted by: rebibb@comcast.net
I have an O-320-E2D with about 900 hours or so on it. I have removed the cylinders
for inspection (the engine has been sittting around for awhile) and I can
see evidence of some spalling on the tappet faces. I cannot see any evidence
of lobe damage to the camshaft but I can't get that good a look without tearing
the engine apart further.
Question is: Is any level of spalling "acceptable" or is evidence of any reason
for rework/replacement of Camshaft and/or tappet faces?
I'm only looking to see if I should bite the bullet now or can I get a few more
hundred hours out of this as is. Of course it is preferable to redo the engine
now but I plan on upgrading to a larger engine in the future (either by adding
high compression pistons to this engine or going the whole nine yards to a
O-360/Constant speed setup.
How close to the original mirror finish does the tappet face have to remain before
it is declared junk?
I'm not really intertested in everyone's opionion on why it makes more sense to
do the overhaul now but rather to gain the knowledge to be able to intelligently
determine whether I HAVE to do it now to be safe.
I already know how to change a lightbulb....
Thanks,
Richard Bibb
RV-4 N144KT - being rebuilt for economical fun.
M20F N212WD - for going places
T6-G N3518G - for making noise and having uneconomical fun.
I have an O-320-E2D with about 900 hours or so on it. I have removed the cylinders
for inspection (the engine has been sittting around for awhile) and I can
see evidence of some spalling on the tappet faces. I cannot see any evidence of
lobe damage to the camshaft but I can't get that good a look without tearing
the engine apart further.
Question is: Is any level of spalling "acceptable" or is evidence of any reason
for rework/replacement of Camshaft and/or tappet faces?
I'm only looking to see if I should bite the bullet now or can I get a few more
hundred hours out of this as is. Of course it is preferable to redo the engine
now but I plan on upgrading to a larger engine in the future (either by adding
high compression pistons to this engine or going the whole nine yards to a
O-360/Constant speed setup.
How close to the original mirror finish does the tappet face have to remain before
it is declared junk?
I'm not really intertested in everyone's opionion on why it makes more sense to
do the overhaul now but rather to gain the knowledge to be able to intelligently
determine whether I HAVE to do it now to be safe.
I already know how to change a lightbulb....
Thanks,
Richard Bibb
RV-4 N144KT - being rebuilt for economical fun.
M20F N212WD - for going places
T6-G N3518G - for making noise and having uneconomical fun.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: How many forum members does it takes to change a light bulb? |
not really RV related, but...
--> RV-List message posted by: "R. Craig Chipley" <mechtech81@yahoo.com>
Scott, That is on the Cessna Pilots forum which I am
also a member of. It is too true!!
--- Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen
> <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
> What kind of primer should I use?
>
> do not archive
>
> flmike <flmike2001@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: flmike
>
> Saw this on another forum.
> In honor of recent threads:
>
> How many forum members does it takes to change a
> light
> bulb?
>
> 1 to change the light bulb and to post that the
> light
> bulb has been changed
> 14 to share similar experiences of changing light
> bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed
> differently
> 7 to caution about the dangers of changing light
> bulbs
>
> 1 to move it to the Lighting section
> 2 to argue then move it to the Electricals section
> 7 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts
> about
> changing light bulbs
> 5 to flame the spell checkers
> 3 to correct spelling/grammar flames
> 6 to argue over whether it's "lightbulb" or "light
> bulb" ... another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid
> 2 industry professionals to inform the group that
> the
> proper term is "lamp"
> 15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry,
> and that "light bulb" is perfectly correct
> 19 to post that this forum is not about light bulbs
> and to please take this discussion to a lightbulb
> forum
> 11 to defend the posting to this forum saying that
> we
> all use light bulbs and therefore the posts are
> relevant to this forum
> 36 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is
> superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what
> brand of light bulbs work best for this technique
> and
> what brands are faulty
> 7 to post URL's where one can see examples of
> different light bulbs
> 4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and
> then post the corrected URL's
> 3 to post about links they found from the URL's that
> are relevant to this group which makes light bulbs
> relevant to this group
> 13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their
> entirety including all headers and signatures, and
> add
> "Me too"
> 5 to post to the group that they will no longer post
> because they cannot handle the light bulb
> controversy
> 4 to say "didn't we go through this already a short
> time ago?"
> 13 to say "do a Google search on light bulbs before
> posting questions about light bulbs"
> 1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6
> months from now and start it all over again.
>
> do not archive
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
> on
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Question for engine gurus |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
rebibb@comcast.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: rebibb@comcast.net
>
>I have an O-320-E2D with about 900 hours or so on it. I have removed the cylinders
for inspection (the engine has been sittting around for awhile) and I can
see evidence of some spalling on the tappet faces. I cannot see any evidence
of lobe damage to the camshaft but I can't get that good a look without tearing
the engine apart further.
>Question is: Is any level of spalling "acceptable"
>
No
> or is evidence of any reason for rework/replacement of Camshaft and/or tappet
faces?
>
Rework/replacement of the cam followers is the only option.
>I'm only looking to see if I should bite the bullet now or can I get a few more
hundred hours out of this as is.
>
How much of a gambler are you? Failure would be gradual but along with
the cam followers you'll need a new camshaft.
> Of course it is preferable to redo the engine now
>
Of course!
> but I plan on upgrading to a larger engine in the future (either by adding high
compression pistons to this engine
>
You can do that now too.
> or going the whole nine yards to a O-360/Constant speed setup.
>
MUCH easier to make this decision now and avoid dismantling the airplane
later. Once you're flying, you'll do just about anything to keep from
taking it apart!!! Not a good mental choice.
>How close to the original mirror finish does the tappet face have to remain before
it is declared junk?
>
That depends on the depth of the spalling. The cam followers can be
faced if they're not too bad. This is one area that just a little
rust/corrosion can do a lot of damage. The faces aren't usually 'flat'
but are concave so that they rotate a little under use.
>I'm not really intertested in everyone's opionion on why it makes more sense to
do the overhaul now but rather to gain the knowledge to be able to intelligently
determine whether I HAVE to do it now to be safe.
>
Like I said, you're the gambler and it'll only cost more down the road.
Cam's ain't cheap! You don't HAVE to do it now ..... it's just SMARTER
to do it now. Something to think about. As the cam lobes deteriorate,
so does your available power. And it's insidious ...... you'll probably
not even be aware that it's happening ...... but one day at high DA
..... you'll be reminded.
Linn
> I already know how to change a lightbulb....
>Thanks,
>Richard Bibb
>RV-4 N144KT - being rebuilt for economical fun.
>M20F N212WD - for going places
>T6-G N3518G - for making noise and having uneconomical fun.
>
>
>I have an O-320-E2D with about 900 hours or so on it. I have removed the cylinders
for inspection (the engine has been sittting around for awhile) and I can
see evidence of some spalling on the tappet faces. I cannot see any evidence
of lobe damage to the camshaft but I can't get that good a look without tearing
the engine apart further.
>
>
>Question is: Is any level of spalling "acceptable" or is evidence of any reason
for rework/replacement of Camshaft and/or tappet faces?
>
>
>I'm only looking to see if I should bite the bullet now or can I get a few more
hundred hours out of this as is. Of course it is preferable to redo the engine
now but I plan on upgrading to a larger engine in the future (either by adding
high compression pistons to this engine or going the whole nine yards to a
O-360/Constant speed setup.
>
>
>How close to the original mirror finish does the tappet face have to remain before
it is declared junk?
>
>
>I'm not really intertested in everyone's opionion on why it makes more sense to
do the overhaul now but rather to gain the knowledge to be able to intelligently
determine whether I HAVE to do it now to be safe.
>
>
>I already know how to change a lightbulb....
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Richard Bibb
>
>
>RV-4 N144KT - being rebuilt for economical fun.
>
>
>M20F N212WD - for going places
>
>
>T6-G N3518G - for making noise and having uneconomical fun.
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Question for engine gurus |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Richard,
If there is spalling on the tappets you can pretty much accept that there is
galling on the cam lobes and it needs inspeciton and rework.
Mike Robertson
>From: rebibb@comcast.net
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Question for engine gurus
>Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 20:30:35 +0000 0.5 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART
>Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: rebibb@comcast.net
>
>I have an O-320-E2D with about 900 hours or so on it. I have removed the
>cylinders for inspection (the engine has been sittting around for awhile)
>and I can see evidence of some spalling on the tappet faces. I cannot see
>any evidence of lobe damage to the camshaft but I can't get that good a
>look without tearing the engine apart further.
>Question is: Is any level of spalling "acceptable" or is evidence of any
>reason for rework/replacement of Camshaft and/or tappet faces?
>I'm only looking to see if I should bite the bullet now or can I get a few
>more hundred hours out of this as is. Of course it is preferable to redo
>the engine now but I plan on upgrading to a larger engine in the future
>(either by adding high compression pistons to this engine or going the
>whole nine yards to a O-360/Constant speed setup.
>How close to the original mirror finish does the tappet face have to remain
>before it is declared junk?
>I'm not really intertested in everyone's opionion on why it makes more
>sense to do the overhaul now but rather to gain the knowledge to be able to
>intelligently determine whether I HAVE to do it now to be safe.
> I already know how to change a lightbulb....
>Thanks,
>Richard Bibb
>RV-4 N144KT - being rebuilt for economical fun.
>M20F N212WD - for going places
>T6-G N3518G - for making noise and having uneconomical fun.
>
>
>I have an O-320-E2D with about 900 hours or so on it. I have removed the
>cylinders for inspection (the engine has been sittting around for awhile)
>and I can see evidence of some spalling on the tappet faces. I cannot see
>any evidence of lobe damage to the camshaft but I can't get that good a
>look without tearing the engine apart further.
>
>
>Question is: Is any level of spalling "acceptable" or is evidence of any
>reason for rework/replacement of Camshaft and/or tappet faces?
>
>
>I'm only looking to see if I should bite the bullet now or can I get a few
>more hundred hours out of this as is. Of course it is preferable to redo
>the engine now but I plan on upgrading to a larger engine in the future
>(either by adding high compression pistons to this engine or going the
>whole nine yards to a O-360/Constant speed setup.
>
>
>How close to the original mirror finish does the tappet face have to remain
>before it is declared junk?
>
>
>I'm not really intertested in everyone's opionion on why it makes more
>sense to do the overhaul now but rather to gain the knowledge to be able to
>intelligently determine whether I HAVE to do it now to be safe.
>
>
>I already know how to change a lightbulb....
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Richard Bibb
>
>
>RV-4 N144KT - being rebuilt for economical fun.
>
>
>M20F N212WD - for going places
>
>
>T6-G N3518G - for making noise and having uneconomical fun.
>
>
http://join.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alan McKeen" <amckeen@twcny.rr.com>
From Yahoo people search. I do not know him but there are several very nice RV
plane and builders in the Buffalo NY area. They probably know who he is and
what he is up to.
Steven Dinieri
1202 Main St
Niagara Falls, NY
(716) 285-8935
F Time: 12:55:25 PM PST US
rom: mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner
--> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com>
Hi Conrad, Good to hear from you. He owes $200. I also was hoping someone
on the
list knows this person. Sadly in these cases one of the two parties involved
has to send either the money or goods on faith. I would not have expected
this
from a fellow RV'r.
Mark Phipps
Konrad Werner <klwerner@comcast.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner"
Dear Mark,
Sorry to hear that some RV'er is trying to not pay you for parts sent on
good faith.
What is the amount he owes you? Does anybody in the list know this guy?
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: mark phipps
Subject: RV-List: Dont trust this RV6 owner
--> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps
Listers, Watch out for RV6 owner and RV10 builder Steve Dinieri of New York.
He
came on the list 3 months ago looking for a rudder for his six. I agreed
to sell
him an extra I had and made the mistake of sending it to him before I was
paid. Guess what, 3 months later and no money, says he is too busy. My mistake
evidently. If you deal with this person or know him, make sure you get paid
first.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A, Almost Flying
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner |
--> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com>
Thanks for the info Alan.
Mark Phipps
Alan McKeen <amckeen@twcny.rr.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alan McKeen"
From Yahoo people search. I do not know him but there are several very nice RV
plane and builders in the Buffalo NY area. They probably know who he is and what
he is up to.
Steven Dinieri
1202 Main St
Niagara Falls, NY
(716) 285-8935
F Time: 12:55:25 PM PST US
rom: mark phipps
Subject: Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner
--> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps
Hi Conrad, Good to hear from you. He owes $200. I also was hoping someone on the
list knows this person. Sadly in these cases one of the two parties involved
has to send either the money or goods on faith. I would not have expected this
from a fellow RV'r.
Mark Phipps
Konrad Werner wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner"
Dear Mark,
Sorry to hear that some RV'er is trying to not pay you for parts sent on good faith.
What is the amount he owes you? Does anybody in the list know this guy?
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: mark phipps
Subject: RV-List: Dont trust this RV6 owner
--> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps
Listers, Watch out for RV6 owner and RV10 builder Steve Dinieri of New York. He
came on the list 3 months ago looking for a rudder for his six. I agreed to sell
him an extra I had and made the mistake of sending it to him before I was
paid. Guess what, 3 months later and no money, says he is too busy. My mistake
evidently. If you deal with this person or know him, make sure you get paid first.
Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A, Almost Flying
---------------------------------
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Determining Compression Ratio |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Barnes" <skytop@megsinet.net>
John,
This method is anything but exotic, but it works on light weight
motorcycle engines where they can easily be moved around. You can give it
some thought and consider if it will work for you.
If the engine is on the bench,
and you have relatively good piston rings in the cylinder to be tested,
stand the cylinder upright,
squirt a little oil around the piston to seal the rings,
position the piston to compression stroke, top-dead-center.
Use a dispensor that can measure CC's and fill the head cavity up to the
bottom of the spark plug threads and note the volume that was added.
Example: 90 cc's.
Next, you have to come up with the piston displacement. If you know the
exact bore and stroke, you can calculate it using the pi * R squared
formula.
The ugly way to find the piston displacement is to rotate the engine to
bottom-dead-center and repeat the process and record the amount liquid added
on this second run leaving the initial liquid in the chamber. Record the
volume. Example 900 cc's.
Your answer is the ratio between the two numbers. Example: 900 : 90 or
simply 10 : 1
Good luck.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: Determining Compression Ratio
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
> Is there a simple method of determining the compression ratio on a
Lycoming
> O-320 that may or may not have been upgraded to larger pistons without
> taking anything apart and without using some exotic measuring devise?
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Determining Compression Ratio |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Wouldn't it be (900+90) : 90 ?
Charlie
Tom Barnes wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Barnes" <skytop@megsinet.net>
>
>John,
> This method is anything but exotic, but it works on light weight
>motorcycle engines where they can easily be moved around. You can give it
>some thought and consider if it will work for you.
>
>If the engine is on the bench,
>and you have relatively good piston rings in the cylinder to be tested,
>stand the cylinder upright,
>squirt a little oil around the piston to seal the rings,
>position the piston to compression stroke, top-dead-center.
>Use a dispensor that can measure CC's and fill the head cavity up to the
>bottom of the spark plug threads and note the volume that was added.
>Example: 90 cc's.
>Next, you have to come up with the piston displacement. If you know the
>exact bore and stroke, you can calculate it using the pi * R squared
>formula.
>The ugly way to find the piston displacement is to rotate the engine to
>bottom-dead-center and repeat the process and record the amount liquid added
>on this second run leaving the initial liquid in the chamber. Record the
>volume. Example 900 cc's.
>Your answer is the ratio between the two numbers. Example: 900 : 90 or
>simply 10 : 1
>
>Good luck.
> Tom
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Determining Compression Ratio
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>>
>>Is there a simple method of determining the compression ratio on a
>>
>>
>Lycoming
>
>
>>O-320 that may or may not have been upgraded to larger pistons without
>>taking anything apart and without using some exotic measuring devise?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Question for engine gurus |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Beene" <kbeene@citilink.com>
Richard,
My engine is an O-320 E3D that was removed from service at 2250 hours total
time because of bad lifters and cam. The cam has only six lobes since two
of the lobes operate valves on both sides of the engine. These are the ones
that normally fail first. Most of the lifters showed some damage but the
ones on the second lobe from the front were the worst. I will send some
pictures of different ones removed from my engine. This might give you some
idea of how bad they can get and the engine still run.
It might be difficult to see the damage to the cam without close inspection.
The number two lobe didn't look so bad but it measures a full 0.1 inches
less in diameter than some of the other ones. This will cause a loss of
power on those cylinders.
I understand the desire to fly the engine and overhaul later. There is the
concern of testing a new overhaul and airplane at the same time as well as
the need to run high power during engine break-in. I think the any spalling
is not acceptable but I don't know how rapidly the existing spalling will
increase. If you decide to run the engine without overhaul, I would change
oil more frequently as the engine will "make metal" and there is the concern
of damaging other good components in the engine -- such as the crank;
however my crank measured to new tolerances and only required polishing.
You mentioned that you were considering a constant speed prop. Although the
E2D does not have a solid crank, the case, front bearing and rear accessory
case are not designed for constant speed use.
I updated my engine to 160 hp. My E3D had plain steel cylinders which were
in good shape. The machine shop that overhauled my cylinders said that the
high compression pistons (O-360) were supposed to be used with a choke bore
in the cylinders. For this reason I had them choked bored 0.010 over since
I needed the new pistons any way. As the cylinders are not chrome or
nitrite treated, they can be easily bored without re-treatment. You will
find that the plain steel cylinders require chrome rings which cost about
three times as much as the steel rings used on treated cylinders.
Good luck, what ever decision you make.
Ken
RV-6A N94KB
RV-4 firewall forward
http://www.mninter.net/~kbeene/
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: stiffeners for the 7 rudder |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Jeff Cours wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
>
>Thanks for all the suggestions!
>
>The reason for the fluting is that the snips were mildly distorting the
>stiffeners. They come straight/flat from the factory, but the snips made
>them slightly concave. Since the stiffeners pretty much control the
>shape of the rudder's skin, I wanted to make sure they had the right
>shape. I was able to mostly straighten them with seamers but had to
>flute a bit to get them completely flat again.
>
>One one of them, I did try going straight from the snips to the
>scotchbrite wheel, but it was slow going: for the taper, there were
>places I had to leave quite a bit of aluminum. I think the file was
>faster...
>
>I guess there's a bandsaw, a belt sander, or both in my future. :-)
>
>thanks again!
>Jeff
>
I haven't seen anyone mention the relationship of rpm of the scotchbrite
wheel to how quickly you can dress edges with it. I found that the
highest speed on my el-cheapo benchtop drill press using the 6" wheel
makes dressing edges almost effortless (relatively speaking of course),
and faster than using a belt sander 1st because I could do it in one
operation.
I tried the band saw at first, then switched to snips for most of the
stiffeners. I used large sheet metal (non-aviation) snips that have ~4"
long smooth cutting edges & are probably 15-16" long overall. I was able
to cut all the way to the notch in the bend using these snips. Very
little distortion & much cleaner edge than the bandsawn ones, requiring
less dressing on the wheel.
Hope this is useful...
Charlie
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
For what it's worth, the FAA N number database has a different street
address, but still in Niagara Falls, NY.
N221RV:
Manufacturer Name
DINIERI STEVEN
Model
DINIERI RV-6A
Registered Owner
DINIERI STEVEN P
725 91ST ST
NIAGARA FALLS
NEW YORK
14304-3529
http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/acmain.htm
Kevin Horton
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alan McKeen" <amckeen@twcny.rr.com>
>
>From Yahoo people search. I do not know him but there are several
>very nice RV plane and builders in the Buffalo NY area. They
>probably know who he is and what he is up to.
>
>Steven Dinieri
>1202 Main St
>Niagara Falls, NY
>
> (716) 285-8935
>
>
> F Time: 12:55:25 PM PST US
> rom: mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com>
>
> Subject: Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com>
>
> Hi Conrad, Good to hear from you. He owes $200. I also was
>hoping someone on the
> list knows this person. Sadly in these cases one of the two
>parties involved
> has to send either the money or goods on faith. I would not
>have expected this
> from a fellow RV'r.
> Mark Phipps
>
> Konrad Werner <klwerner@comcast.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner"
>
> Dear Mark,
>
> Sorry to hear that some RV'er is trying to not pay you for
>parts sent on good faith.
> What is the amount he owes you? Does anybody in the list know this guy?
>
> Konrad
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: mark phipps
> Subject: RV-List: Dont trust this RV6 owner
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps
>
>Dinieri of New York. He
> came on the list 3 months ago looking for a rudder for his
>six. I agreed to sell
> him an extra I had and made the mistake of sending it to him
>before I was
> paid. Guess what, 3 months later and no money, says he is too
>busy. My mistake
> evidently. If you deal with this person or know him, make sure
>you get paid first.
>
> Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A, Almost Flying
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Matco MC-5 Brake Master Cylinder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
For those of you who have used the new style integrated reservoir master
cylinders from Matco, how did you attach to the Van's adjustable rudder
pedals? Any mods required? Any photos would be especially appreciated
off-list. I think they'll work great if I can just figure out the
logistics. Thanks in advance!
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
Always Finishing (and retrofitting)
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner |
--> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com>
I appreciate the help all the listers are showing here. This is what this list
and RVers are all about.
Mark Phipps
Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
For what it's worth, the FAA N number database has a different street
address, but still in Niagara Falls, NY.
N221RV:
Manufacturer Name
DINIERI STEVEN
Model
DINIERI RV-6A
Registered Owner
DINIERI STEVEN P
725 91ST ST
NIAGARA FALLS
NEW YORK
14304-3529
http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/acmain.htm
Kevin Horton
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alan McKeen"
>
>From Yahoo people search. I do not know him but there are several
>very nice RV plane and builders in the Buffalo NY area. They
>probably know who he is and what he is up to.
>
>Steven Dinieri
>1202 Main St
>Niagara Falls, NY
>
> (716) 285-8935
>
>
> F Time: 12:55:25 PM PST US
> rom: mark phipps
>
> Subject: Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps
>
> Hi Conrad, Good to hear from you. He owes $200. I also was
>hoping someone on the
> list knows this person. Sadly in these cases one of the two
>parties involved
> has to send either the money or goods on faith. I would not
>have expected this
> from a fellow RV'r.
> Mark Phipps
>
> Konrad Werner wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner"
>
> Dear Mark,
>
> Sorry to hear that some RV'er is trying to not pay you for
>parts sent on good faith.
> What is the amount he owes you? Does anybody in the list know this guy?
>
> Konrad
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: mark phipps
> Subject: RV-List: Dont trust this RV6 owner
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps
>
>Dinieri of New York. He
> came on the list 3 months ago looking for a rudder for his
>six. I agreed to sell
> him an extra I had and made the mistake of sending it to him
>before I was
> paid. Guess what, 3 months later and no money, says he is too
>busy. My mistake
> evidently. If you deal with this person or know him, make sure
>you get paid first.
>
> Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A, Almost Flying
---------------------------------
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Question for engine gurus |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 01:30 PM 7/13/2004, you wrote:
>Question is: Is any level of spalling "acceptable" or is evidence of any
>reason for rework/replacement of Camshaft and/or tappet faces?
You are the inspector, you decide. If I were the inspector, a teardown
would be mandatory.
If labor is cheap, you might be well off to save the rest of the
engine. That is, replace cam and tappets only, clean everything well and
fly on for many more hours.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Question for engine gurus |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Bibb" <rebibb@comcast.net>
Thanks Ken.
I've pretty much decided to bite the bullet and send all the parts out for
rework so I can have a nice zero time engine. I was only thinking of
Constant speed if I changed engines and then I'd go with an O-360....
For now I will go with the reworked engine and high compression pistons (If
I can choke bore the cylinders) and a Sensinich prop.
I've flown this pane before but am rebuilding it as I landed it in trees
about 5 years ago. I need to fit the cowl (might do before I send engine
parts out), mount the wings and get ready to paint.
I've been working on this off and on for five years and I'm geting into it
again and want to fly. Might ahve had something to do with a ride I had in
a buddies RV-6 the other day. Man these planes are nice.
Thanks.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Beene" <kbeene@citilink.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Question for engine gurus
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Beene" <kbeene@citilink.com>
>
> Richard,
>
> My engine is an O-320 E3D that was removed from service at 2250 hours
total
> time because of bad lifters and cam. The cam has only six lobes since two
> of the lobes operate valves on both sides of the engine. These are the
ones
> that normally fail first. Most of the lifters showed some damage but the
> ones on the second lobe from the front were the worst. I will send some
> pictures of different ones removed from my engine. This might give you
some
> idea of how bad they can get and the engine still run.
>
> It might be difficult to see the damage to the cam without close
inspection.
> The number two lobe didn't look so bad but it measures a full 0.1 inches
> less in diameter than some of the other ones. This will cause a loss of
> power on those cylinders.
>
> I understand the desire to fly the engine and overhaul later. There is
the
> concern of testing a new overhaul and airplane at the same time as well as
> the need to run high power during engine break-in. I think the any
spalling
> is not acceptable but I don't know how rapidly the existing spalling will
> increase. If you decide to run the engine without overhaul, I would
change
> oil more frequently as the engine will "make metal" and there is the
concern
> of damaging other good components in the engine -- such as the crank;
> however my crank measured to new tolerances and only required polishing.
>
> You mentioned that you were considering a constant speed prop. Although
the
> E2D does not have a solid crank, the case, front bearing and rear
accessory
> case are not designed for constant speed use.
>
> I updated my engine to 160 hp. My E3D had plain steel cylinders which
were
> in good shape. The machine shop that overhauled my cylinders said that
the
> high compression pistons (O-360) were supposed to be used with a choke
bore
> in the cylinders. For this reason I had them choked bored 0.010 over
since
> I needed the new pistons any way. As the cylinders are not chrome or
> nitrite treated, they can be easily bored without re-treatment. You will
> find that the plain steel cylinders require chrome rings which cost about
> three times as much as the steel rings used on treated cylinders.
>
> Good luck, what ever decision you make.
>
> Ken
> RV-6A N94KB
> RV-4 firewall forward
> http://www.mninter.net/~kbeene/
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: The Air Beetle |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
>The Nigerian Air Force uses them. They also have RV grins!
>
>Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati
>
>Anyone care to hazard a guess as to what an Air Beetle is before clicking on the
enclosed link?
>
>http://www.dananig.com/air_betle.htm
>
>
>Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
>
>
What is interesting is that they use 91 octane automotive fuel in ther
O-360 A1A.
Becaue I was an early builder of an RV-6 I got a call from Dana inviting
me to go over
and help build them, but at the time I was not interested.
Jerry
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
And he also owns a Piper Cherokee.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
> For what it's worth, the FAA N number database has a different street
> address, but still in Niagara Falls, NY.
>
> N221RV:
>
> Manufacturer Name
> DINIERI STEVEN
>
> Model
> DINIERI RV-6A
>
> Registered Owner
> DINIERI STEVEN P
> 725 91ST ST
> NIAGARA FALLS
> NEW YORK
> 14304-3529
>
>
> http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/acmain.htm
>
> Kevin Horton
>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Alan McKeen" <amckeen@twcny.rr.com>
> >
> >From Yahoo people search. I do not know him but there are several
> >very nice RV plane and builders in the Buffalo NY area. They
> >probably know who he is and what he is up to.
> >
> >Steven Dinieri
> >1202 Main St
> >Niagara Falls, NY
> >
> > (716) 285-8935
> >
> >
> > F Time: 12:55:25 PM PST US
> > rom: mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Subject: Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps
<skydive80020@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Hi Conrad, Good to hear from you. He owes $200. I also was
> >hoping someone on the
> > list knows this person. Sadly in these cases one of the two
> >parties involved
> > has to send either the money or goods on faith. I would not
> >have expected this
> > from a fellow RV'r.
> > Mark Phipps
> >
> > Konrad Werner <klwerner@comcast.net> wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner"
> >
> > Dear Mark,
> >
> > Sorry to hear that some RV'er is trying to not pay you for
> >parts sent on good faith.
> > What is the amount he owes you? Does anybody in the list know this
guy?
> >
> > Konrad
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: mark phipps
> > Subject: RV-List: Dont trust this RV6 owner
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps
> >
> >Dinieri of New York. He
> > came on the list 3 months ago looking for a rudder for his
> >six. I agreed to sell
> > him an extra I had and made the mistake of sending it to him
> >before I was
> > paid. Guess what, 3 months later and no money, says he is too
> >busy. My mistake
> > evidently. If you deal with this person or know him, make sure
> >you get paid first.
> >
> > Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A, Almost Flying
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | re: don't trust this RV 6 guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
All,
The trust among list members is one of the things that makes us a community. I've
sold stuff on the list for less than I could have goten on the "open market"
because it was no hassle. No ebay, no paypal, just ship the item and feel good
knowing that my item is crossing a check on its way to me somewhere in the
good old USPS.
So, we have a rat among us who has screwed Mark Phipps. Well, we should let him
know that we all know. We shold also let him know that he is not welcome at any
RV type events. I for one will take great pleasure in telling him this to his
face if I ever recognize his N number at an event.
The Oswego EAA Chapter has a big RV fly in. Is he a member of that chapter??
I think a good start is for all of us to send a nice personal (non-hostile, non-threatening)
email to mister "sticky fingers" Dinieri.
His email address is:
capsteve@adelphia.net
If that doesn't help get mister Phipps his rudder back, (the following is said
tongue in cheek) we should go get it back. If mr Phipps has not been paid, he
still owns the rudder. I think Oshkosh would be a nice place to very carefullyremove
the rudder if Mr. Dinieri makes the trip. We need to be careful not to
damage the aircraft, since our intent is to only get Mr Phipps back his rightfully
owned property.
God this crap burns me. When I was unemployed durring the tech colapse a few years
ago,and got a bit short of cash I had to string some people along. This included
the place where I kept my airplane. BUT, I made it a point to regularly
contact those I owed money to and let them know that I still planned to pay them
back, but that they came after my mortgage. They all understood. I'm guessing
Mr Phipps can afford the $200 or 300 he lost. Its the getting screwed that
hurts.
Now go send Sticky Fingers an email!
Best regards,
Don Mei
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: re: don't trust this RV 6 guy |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Donald Mei wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
>All,
>The trust among list members is one of the things that makes us a community. I've
sold stuff on the list for less than I could have goten on the "open market"
because it was no hassle. No ebay, no paypal, just ship the item and feel good
knowing that my item is crossing a check on its way to me somewhere in the
good old USPS.
>
>So, we have a rat among us who has screwed Mark Phipps. Well, we should let him
know that we all know. We shold also let him know that he is not welcome at
any RV type events. I for one will take great pleasure in telling him this to
his face if I ever recognize his N number at an event.
>
>The Oswego EAA Chapter has a big RV fly in. Is he a member of that chapter??
>
>I think a good start is for all of us to send a nice personal (non-hostile, non-threatening)
email to mister "sticky fingers" Dinieri.
>
>His email address is:
>
>capsteve@adelphia.net
>
>If that doesn't help get mister Phipps his rudder back, (the following is said
tongue in cheek) we should go get it back. If mr Phipps has not been paid, he
still owns the rudder. I think Oshkosh would be a nice place to very carefullyremove
the rudder if Mr. Dinieri makes the trip. We need to be careful not to
damage the aircraft, since our intent is to only get Mr Phipps back his rightfully
owned property.
>
>
While I sympathize with anyone "getting screwed" I don't think the above
is funny even tongue in cheek Don. While most of you know that I
replaced the rudder on my RV-6 with an RV-7 rudder and stabilizer some
of you may not know why. Last year at Van's homecoming
flyin someone severely damaged the rudder on my RV-6. I of course being
the great safe flight instructor jumped in my airplane and took off.
(very important lesson #1 ALWAYS DO A WALK AROUND AND PRE-FLIGHT)climb
was fine but when I leveled out I knew I had a problem
the airplane went into a left roll and it took a lot of rudder and
aileron to fly straight. When I landed I found the trailing edge of the
rudder was
pushed over about two inches and the skin was torn where it had been
hit. Of course no one said a word to me, no notes, nothing. This is one
of those
situation that if I had crashed no one would have known why or
understood. I can see it now, he probably had a medical problem, this
seems to be
a catch all for any unexplained crashes. I post this for a couple
reasons. #1 don't be stupid like I was and jump in your airplane with
out at least a quick
walk around. #2 Please if you damage someones airplane at least leave a
note or try to notify someone. While I don't like my airplane damaged I
understand
accidents can happen where damage can occur. I certainly would have a
lot more respect for someone that came to me and admitted they did some
damage.
Jerry (Flying my RV-6 15 years tomorrow, first flight July 14, 1989)
Springer
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan J. Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
My father always drummed into me. "Always pay your bills by the 20th of the
month. Your credit rating is your biggest assett in life". This chap has
certainly blown his
Stan
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
And he also owns a Piper Cherokee.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Don't trust this RV-6 Owner
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
> For what it's worth, the FAA N number database has a different street
> address, but still in Niagara Falls, NY.
>
> N221RV:
>
> Manufacturer Name
> DINIERI STEVEN
>
> Model
> DINIERI RV-6A
>
> Registered Owner
> DINIERI STEVEN P
> 725 91ST ST
> NIAGARA FALLS
> NEW YORK
> 14304-3529
>
>
> http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/acmain.htm
>
> Kevin Horton
>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Alan McKeen" <amckeen@twcny.rr.com>
> >
> >From Yahoo people search. I do not know him but there are several
> >very nice RV plane and builders in the Buffalo NY area. They
> >probably know who he is and what he is up to.
> >
> >Steven Dinieri
> >1202 Main St
> >Niagara Falls, NY
> >
> > (716) 285-8935
> >
> >
> > F Time: 12:55:25 PM PST US
> > rom: mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Subject: Re: Dont trust this RV6 owner
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps
<skydive80020@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Hi Conrad, Good to hear from you. He owes $200. I also was
> >hoping someone on the
> > list knows this person. Sadly in these cases one of the two
> >parties involved
> > has to send either the money or goods on faith. I would not
> >have expected this
> > from a fellow RV'r.
> > Mark Phipps
> >
> > Konrad Werner <klwerner@comcast.net> wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner"
> >
> > Dear Mark,
> >
> > Sorry to hear that some RV'er is trying to not pay you for
> >parts sent on good faith.
> > What is the amount he owes you? Does anybody in the list know this
guy?
> >
> > Konrad
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: mark phipps
> > Subject: RV-List: Dont trust this RV6 owner
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps
> >
> >Dinieri of New York. He
> > came on the list 3 months ago looking for a rudder for his
> >six. I agreed to sell
> > him an extra I had and made the mistake of sending it to him
> >before I was
> > paid. Guess what, 3 months later and no money, says he is too
> >busy. My mistake
> > evidently. If you deal with this person or know him, make sure
> >you get paid first.
> >
> > Mark Phipps, N242RP, RV6A, Almost Flying
>
>
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