---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 07/18/04: 24 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:58 AM - Flying to Oshkosh (Donald Mei) 2. 03:52 AM - Heads Up (Steve Glasgow) 3. 05:48 AM - Re: Bolt on roll bar handles? (Esten Spears) 4. 05:54 AM - Re: Bolt on roll bar handles? (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 5. 06:10 AM - Re: Bolt on roll bar handles? (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 6. 06:20 AM - Re:RV-4 Brakes (Oldsfolks@aol.com) 7. 06:55 AM - Re: Heads Up (Sam Buchanan) 8. 07:50 AM - Re: RV-4 Brakes (Pat Hatch) 9. 08:01 AM - Is my RV9A too slow? (Knicholas2@aol.com) 10. 08:03 AM - VS rear spar attachment (Steve&Anita Nyman) 11. 08:24 AM - Re: Is my RV9A too slow? (Jerry Springer) 12. 08:25 AM - Re: RV-4 Brakes (Ken Beene) 13. 09:41 AM - Re: flying to OSH (Shemp) 14. 09:43 AM - Brake caliper (Shemp) 15. 09:49 AM - Re: EGT follow-up (Skylor Piper) 16. 11:50 AM - Filling the brake system. (Was RV-4 Brakes) (Charlie Brame) 17. 11:58 AM - Re: flying to Oshkosh (Hal / Carol Kempthorne) 18. 03:41 PM - Re: Brake caliper (cgalley) 19. 05:58 PM - Re: RV-4 Brakes (Jerry Isler) 20. 06:15 PM - Rooms @ Rippon for Oshkosh (lui) 21. 06:16 PM - Room @ Rippon for Oshkosh (lui) 22. 06:19 PM - Re: flying to Oshkosh (Scott Bilinski) 23. 08:39 PM - Torquing and other assundry questions. (Dean Psiropoulos) 24. 11:28 PM - Re: flying to Oshkosh and thanks to Galley and crew (Richard Scott) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:58:16 AM PST US From: "Donald Mei" Subject: RV-List: Flying to Oshkosh --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" I'll start out by saying that I've never flown into Osh. I don't really have a valid opinion about which altitude you should use. The higher/faster one sounds like less hassle, simply because 90 kts sounds almost like a maximum for this approach, not a minimum. 90 Kts in an RV is Very Very easy, and comfortable. Just a bit of flaps helps bring the nose down for a more normal sight picture. Like someone else said before, if and your aircraft can't fly around comfortably at 90 kts, you shouldn't be going to Osh. With that said, the human side of the problem is easy. Go practice. Get some altitude, do the whole clearing turn thing, and practice flying around at 90 kts. Try it no flaps, try it with a little flap. Write down the RPM/MP combo necessary to do this. Then do something you probably haven't done in a while if you're uncomfortable at 90 kts, stall the airplane, then do it again. Practice lifting the wing with RUDDER only. Stall it with flaps, without, with a little power, etc. Practice a descent at 500 fpm at 80 kts, then 70 kts. Just to know it in case a cub ends up in front of you. This is basic stuff people, and well within the perfromance envelope of an RV. I fly a power off short final in my '4 at 70 mph (61 kts or so), so I can tell you that the plane will not drop out of the sky. The published stall speed of the RV-4 is 54 mph. So I'm hardly on the jagged edge. Finally, the situation with the gentleman in the glassair was a tragedy. But he crashed and died for only 1 reason. He accepted a situation he shouldn't have. He could have always gone around. Please don't flame me for stating this fairly obvious fact. We've all screwed up, in some cases, but for the grace of God, it didn't kill us. But lets at least learn something from this tragedy. He didn't die because he chose the slow approach, he died because he did not properly excercise his authority as PIC and go around. Finally, finally, really. I've read that many of those who arive at Osh haven't read the notam. That amazes me. My thought on planning to fly to osh, is to read the notam, AND assume that no one else has. i.e. fly defensively. Safe flying. (work is getting in the way of flying to Osh again this year) Don Mei Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/ ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:52:24 AM PST US From: "Steve Glasgow" Subject: RV-List: Heads Up --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" Heads Up In 2002 I bought a new XP-360 from Superior Air Parts which was sent to Aero Sport Power to be built up and test run. Both are great companies and both did a great job for me. Unfortunately, Aero Sport Power is in Canada and when my engine was sent back to me, it had to clear US Customs. Well guess what, US Customs sent the sales slip to the NC Department of Revenue and now I have a bill from NC for Sales Tax not paid to NC. With penalty and interest the Tax due is over $2,600 on a $22,000 engine. If I had it to do over I would use a US company and avoid the possibility of US Customs forwarding information to my state. Steve Glasgow ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:48:14 AM PST US From: "Esten Spears" Subject: Re: RV-List: Bolt on roll bar handles? --> RV-List message posted by: "Esten Spears" > Time: 08:15:18 AM PST US > Subject: Re: RV-List: Bolt on roll bar handles? > From: czechsix@juno.com > > --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com > > Just out of curiosity, does anyone share my concern about putting too > much stress on the rollbar by pulling on it (with or without handles)? > Perhaps the -6/7/9 series is more rigid due to the brace that goes up to > the center of the roll bar, but on my -8A I noticed before glassing in my > windshield that the roll bar would flex quite a bit by pushing/pulling on > it. I remember thinking at the time that this would imply quite a bit of > stress being transferred to the plexiglass via the screws that hold it to > the roll bar. Sounds to me like a crack waiting to happen. But maybe > extensive experience has proven that this is not a valid concern???? Mark, If your rollbar installation is so flexible you would be worried about cracking the windshield, then yours is way more flexible than it should be or any I've seen. Keep in mind its primary purpose is a "rollbar" which could be subjected to an 1800 # impact load and not collapse. I did a little study at our last Leeward Air Ranch Fly-In. I watched pilots getting in and out of RV8's and RV8A's. (We had 18 of them) Two of them had handles installed on the rollbar and of course used them.14 out of the remaining 16 of them put their hand on the windshield fairing at some point in the process of getting in or out. Certainly if you're young and agile you can do without it, but I wouldn't even consider building an 8 without one. Esten Spears, RV8A, 80922, N922ES (reserved), Leeward Air Ranch, Ocala, FL ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:54:38 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Bolt on roll bar handles? --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:10:37 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Bolt on roll bar handles? --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com Oops, I double clicked on Reply. Sorry for the empty post. When I built my -7A, I knew people who rode with me would be reaching up and grabbing anything they could find to get out. When I took my first ride in an RV, I did the same thing! When I got to that stage of building I looked at the handle options, but didn't want anything protruding out, so I elected to just make the fiberglass strong enough to support even a big guy like me. I haven't taken anyone a ride yet, but when I do they can reach up and grab the windshield and I won't worry about it. Mine came out about 5/32 inch thick -- all fiberglass. Just my . 00000002 megabucks worth. Do not archive. Dan Hopper N766DH RV-7A (12 hours already -- hope to make OSH) Look for an unpainted, kinda ugly airplane! ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:20:15 AM PST US From: Oldsfolks@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Re:RV-4 Brakes --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com Jerry; The brake system is a hydraulic system,with oil being the liquid in the system. Oil will not compress,so there should ne NO compression in the system - unless there is air in the system. Somewhere you have to have some air in there,and there shouldn't be. Did you use the nylon type brake lines? If so,you could see air bubbles in the lines. I had small bubbles in the lines above the master cylinders(Where the lines had a loop). I had to put pressure on the system and loosen a fitting to let the bubbles get out. The bubbles will go to the highest point in the line,so look at the top of any loop. I have a pressure bleeder and I bled my system from top and bottom. I rigged a plug for the resevoir so that I could overflow it without making a mess. I then ran a lot of fluid through the system to flush out any bubbles. My pedal travel is almost none - maybe a half inch on the pedal top. I have had no further problems for two years. Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:55:39 AM PST US From: Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: Heads Up --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan Steve Glasgow wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" > > > Heads Up > > > In 2002 I bought a new XP-360 from Superior Air Parts which was sent > to Aero Sport Power to be built up and test run. Both are great > companies and both did a great job for me. Unfortunately, Aero Sport > Power is in Canada and when my engine was sent back to me, it had to > clear US Customs. Well guess what, US Customs sent the sales slip to > the NC Department of Revenue and now I have a bill from NC for Sales > Tax not paid to NC. With penalty and interest the Tax due is over > $2,600 on a $22,000 engine. > > > If I had it to do over I would use a US company and avoid the > possibility of US Customs forwarding information to my state. Steve, I suspect you will also get a love note from NC once your aircraft is registered. The FAA will forward the registration info to the state and the Revenoors are going to expect you to pay taxes on the kit and components of the RV. You probably want to go ahead and make a preemptive strike by getting with the revenue department to make tax payments on stuff already purchased so you can avoid most penalties. The penalties and interest can really accumulate over the life of a building project. Sam Buchanan (RV-6) http://thervjournal.com ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:50:46 AM PST US From: "Pat Hatch" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Brakes --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" Jerry, OK, you have the cylinders springs up, good. It should be easy to bleed. Here's how I do it (and I bet most people on this list do it): Get yourself a little oil squirt can with a gooseneck extension. Fill the oil can with 5606 hydraulic fluid. Find some neoprene tubing the correct size that you can slip over the gooseneck extension on the oil can and also that fits tight over the bleeder screw on the bottom of the caliper (you may have to use two differenct sizes of tubing and some breeze clamps, etc.). You can actually do this by yourself without any help, but of course, if you have a helper it makes it easier. I made myself a little pipe fitting that screws into the top of the brake reservoir that has a brake bleeder fitting screwed to it (or you can order one from Spruce, p/n 11225 for about $5). You can attach another plastic tube here that drains into a catch can for the overflow from the reservoir. Now just loosen the bleeder screw on one of the brake calipers, pump until fluid overflows into the catch can. Go to the other caliper, repeat. If the brake pedals feel firm you're done, if not, go back and forth between calipers and just keep pumping fluid until both pedals feels solid. If this doesn't work, something's very wrong. Should work. Let us know. You should start feeling resistance as soon as the pedal moves, fluid is incompressible, so assuming no air and you are only moving the brake piston perhaps an eigth of an inch max, so almost imediate resistance upon depressing cylinder is the norm. Pat Hatch RV-4 RV-6 RV-7 All Flying Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Isler" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Brakes > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" > > To further expand on what I have now that I'm back from the Outback > (Steakhouse that is). > > The master cylinders are installed springs up and all of the components > are built and installed according to the plans . There is about an inch of > travel on the shaft of the master cylinder before it starts to engage or > build up pressure. This amount of travel allows the brake pedal to move full > stroke, i.e.. from the neutral, at rest position, to the fully depressed > position before the master cylinder starts to build up pressure. Should the > master cylinder start to build pressure before it strokes this far? If so, > that would solve my problem. If the master cylinder would start to develop > pressure as soon as the shaft is depressed it would work. Is that the way it > should be? > > Jerry Isler > RV-4 N455J > Donalsonville, GA > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Scott Vanartsdalen" > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Brakes > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen > > > > Now I remember. We used a hudson weed sprayer with a fitting on the end > that fit the nipple on the bottom of the brake caliper. Loosen the zert a > bit and pump up the Hudson. When the red gets to the brake fluid resevoir, > tighten the zert. Repeat on the other side. Worked well. Some use adapted > oil squirters too. > > > > Richard Bibb wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: > "Richard Bibb" > > > > I installed mine per the plans and they worked fine. > > > > In order to bleed the breaks I had to undo the cylinders and hold the > lower > > end "up" above the normal top end of the cylinder and pump flius from the > > botom. Other wise all you are doing is pushing air. > > > > RB > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:01:07 AM PST US From: Knicholas2@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Is my RV9A too slow? --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com I flew my RV9A for the first time last week and now have a woppin' 3 hours of flight time. The plane handles beautifully, tracks well on take off, lands easily and climbs like crazy. My only concern is that she is slower than I expected. I am using a 0-320, 150 horse engine with a fixed pitch Senenich prop. (the prop Van's recommends for this engine). At 4000 feet, full throttle I am only reading 140 knots. (indicated and GPS). I don't want to be greedy but I was expecting more. Is this speed ok or do I have a potential problem? Kim Nicholas RV9A Seattle Do Not Archive ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:03:15 AM PST US From: "Steve&Anita Nyman" Subject: RV-List: VS rear spar attachment --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve&Anita Nyman" I'm getting ready to drill the 3 bolt holes in the VS-410PP, WD-409, VS-808pp, and F-712 aft bulkhead. According to the RV7 Dwg 27, detail A-A the two AN4 bolts that go through the VS-410PP lower hinge bracket and the WD-409 tail spring mount will only have 3/8" edge distance. Since AN4 bolts are 1/4" diameter, I thought the edge distance was supposed to be 1/2" measured from the center of the hole. Because of the positions of the VS-410PP and WD-409 I see no way to get more than 3/8" distance from the top of the WD-409 and bottom of the VS-410PP, but the holes could be moved inboard for the side distance. Am I missing something, or is this one of the exceptions to the 2X diameter edge distance rule. Thanks, Steve 7QB MEM ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 08:24:40 AM PST US From: Jerry Springer Subject: Re: RV-List: Is my RV9A too slow? --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer Knicholas2@aol.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com > >I flew my RV9A for the first time last week and now have a woppin' 3 hours of >flight time. The plane handles beautifully, tracks well on take off, lands >easily and climbs like crazy. > >My only concern is that she is slower than I expected. I am using a 0-320, >150 horse engine with a fixed pitch Senenich prop. (the prop Van's recommends >for this engine). At 4000 feet, full throttle I am only reading 140 knots. >(indicated and GPS). I don't want to be greedy but I was expecting more. Is >this speed ok or do I have a potential problem? > >Kim Nicholas >RV9A >Seattle > >Do Not Archive > > > > You do know that 140 Kts is about 161 mph and depending on outside temps, etc. your TAS could be 8 to 10 MPH faster than that. Using GPS you would need to do several runs at different headings to calculate your airspeed. Do you have all of the fairings installed? You did not say what RPM you were getting at full throttle. Jerry ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 08:25:06 AM PST US From: "Ken Beene" Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-4 Brakes --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Beene" Jerry, Make sure your master cylinders are fully retracted. Pull forward on the top of the pedals. If the springs are not strong enough to fully return or the pedals bind a little, the port is not open to the reservoir and you can not pump fluid up from the wheel cylinders. Ken ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 09:41:44 AM PST US From: "Shemp" Subject: Re: RV-List: flying to OSH --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" Speaking of slow flight, I was practicing stall series a few days ago and noticed very little difference in stall speed between 0,50 and full flaps. She was getting down to about 57mph before quitting. Pretty impressive. I was surprised by the negligible effect of the flaps. I also forgot how much the lumps of skin and bone attached to the end of my legs need to be working. Ive been flying the big guys for a while and havent used rudder in a loooonnnng time. Im still getting used to using it for plain old normal turns. Jeff ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kosta Lewis" Subject: RE: RV-List: flying to OSH > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" > > >An RV is not a Glasair III. IT (the RV) can outperform the Glasair III > at > >SLOW speeds. ANY RV pilot that cannot fly the approach to OSH at 90 > should > >not be flying to AirVenture. > > Agreed. Or maybe anywhere else, for that matter. Didn't you do this on > your flight testing? Do you do other things with your airplane than > blast around from place to place? Like practice? How well do you know > the edges of your performance envelope, especially slow flight? How > slow, what bank before it lets loose? Hmmmm > > One of the many reasons I built an RV was for the wide performance > envelope. These airplanes fly GREAT at slow speeds. That wing just HANGS > on. The only reason they wouldn't fly well is the pilot has not been out > practicing slow flight. The approach to OSH is NO DIFFERENT in speeds > than you should be using in your pattern at your home field. Do you > blast into the home pattern at 135 knots? Probably not. At least you > shouldn't be; you will take forever to slow down and you are traveling > too fast for most other traffic in the pattern. 90 knots is not slow for > an RV but you need to have practiced slow flight, and sometime before > you leave for the trip, as well as other realms of flight, to be good at > it and feel comfortable with it. And you should. Engine failure at slow > speed? My best rate of glide is 5 knots slower than this "slow" 90 knots > so I would have to slow down further, not speed up. With full flaps? How > else are you going to land in an emergency? Have you practiced putting > on and taking off flaps while on your emergency glide (you DO practice > emergency procedures including slow and dirty, don't you?)? Me oh my. I > was out several months ago flying formation right wing with an 85hp J-3 > Cub, for crying out loud. Including inside and outside turns. Was I > hyperaware? You bet. But never felt like I was on the edge. It was 20 > knots faster than my stall speed. Practice, practice, practice. I almost > built a Glasair taildragger. Thanks, Jim, for talking me out of that. > NOT that there is anything wrong with that, although there must be > reasons you don't see many of them around. I just like my RV better. > Flies fast, flies slow. One of the many reasons I fly an RV; I LOVE this > airplane. > > SO: I'll be in the lower not so slow altitude, flying right along with > most other people, not worried someone is roaring up behind me at 145 > knots. If someone is ahead going slower, I'll make adjustments. I have > NEVER felt uncomfortable with that procedure at OSH. You have to look > around; shouldn't you always be looking around? > > You can never know too much about your airplane and your ability to fly > it. Suzie Q and I have learned quite a bit in 6+ years of flitting > about. She loves to go to OSH and show herself off. See you there. > > Michael > RV-4 N232 Suzie Q > > Practice, practice, practice................getting to know you; getting > to know all about you.............. > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 09:43:53 AM PST US From: "Shemp" Subject: RV-List: Brake caliper --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" Since were on the subject of brakes, my left caliper is much harder to slide on the pins than my right. I took some 400 grit to the pins and cleaned them up but it still doesnt slide as smoothly as the right. There is a definite increase in brake dust on that side as well. Has anyone else seen this? Jeff ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 09:49:34 AM PST US From: Skylor Piper Subject: Re: RV-List: EGT follow-up --> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper Oops, I missed the fact that you were fixed pitch... --- SportAV8R@aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com > > >Finally, engine RPM will have an effect on the max > egt > >attainable at a given manifold pressure. Try > running > >the test at 2700 RPM's and see how much hotter they > >get! > > > >Skylor > > I would, but my Sensenich is designed to > self-destruct at 2601 rpm :-) > > do not archive > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > __________________________________ http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/yahoo/votelifeengine/ ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 11:50:33 AM PST US From: Charlie Brame Subject: RV-List: Filling the brake system. (Was RV-4 Brakes) --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Brame I'm about ready to put fluid in my -6A brakes for the first time. I plan to use an oil can pumper and fill from below. From my experience with car brakes, one should pour fluid very slowly from the original container into the oil can to avoid creating bubbles. Also, pump very slowly while filling the system for the same reason. Lastly, running low or out of fluid during the filling process increases the probability of pumping air into the system. Therein lies my problem - my oil can holds less than a pint of fluid. Does anyone know how much fluid is required to fill each brake system? Charlie RV-6A N11CB San Antonio ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 11:58:28 AM PST US From: Hal / Carol Kempthorne Subject: Re: RV-List: flying to Oshkosh --> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne Hi, I've flown in to Oshkosh five times, twice in my Debonair (same thing as early F33) and all at the lower level. Three times in my RV6a. All a piece of cake. The RV6a stalls at 43Kts flaps down. 90 is more than twice that. I feel that if you are uncomfortable at 90Kts, you should do some slow flight practice and stalls. You should be able to fly at 45Kts. You shouldn't stall and if you do, you should be able to recover from 1800 feet. Your engine should not overheat doing it either. It will not be 102F at Oshkosh, especially early in the day. By the way, it is harder going in near closing time. I don't recall ever being very close to others or being really slow. I do dimly recall a Cessna who was going way too fast and pulled out of the line. There's always that two percent. I'm not going to be flying in this year and probably not going any other way :-( Flying in is humongous fun. K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now. PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 03:41:57 PM PST US From: "cgalley" Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake caliper --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" Measure with a dial caliper the distance from pin to pin at the tips and at the mounting plate. They should be the same. If they aren't then the pins at not parallel. Why? could be bent, not installed correctly, mis-machined. Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shemp" Subject: RV-List: Brake caliper > --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" > > Since were on the subject of brakes, my left caliper is much harder to slide on the pins than my right. I took some 400 grit to the pins and cleaned them up but it still doesnt slide as smoothly as the right. There is a definite increase in brake dust on that side as well. Has anyone else seen this? > > Jeff > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 05:58:39 PM PST US From: "Jerry Isler" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Brakes --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" Thanks for all of the input about my brake delema. Turns out the biggest problem was that I was trying to use a Wal-Mart piece of crap oil can / squirter. It would not build up enough pressure to force the brake fluid up into the system so I pumped merrily away and nothing was happening. I visited my local crop duster today and borrowed his NAPA brand oil can and some more fluid. I had both sides filled and vented within 20 minutes of returning home. The pedal now hardly moves when the brakes are fully applied. maybe 1/8 inch, and it is rock solid. The second problem was that I was trying to apply automobile brake system knowledge to an airplane. I was expecting there to be some amount of travel on the actuator shaft of the master cylinder. To my surprise the is virtually none. Auto master cylinder shafts move quite a bit before engaging. "Patch" Price the local crop duster, says he has to bleed the brakes on his turbine Thrush every now and then. What is really interesting is that he says the Thrush uses Studebaker master cylinders with Cleaveland brake calipers from the factory. Imagine what a certified Studebaker master cylinder cost! Thanks for all the input. It really steered me in the right direction. Jerry Isler RV-4 N455J > --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" > > Jerry, > > OK, you have the cylinders springs up, good. It should be easy to bleed. > Here's how I do it (and I bet most people on this list do it): Get yourself > a little oil squirt can with a gooseneck extension. Fill the oil can with > 5606 hydraulic fluid. Find some neoprene tubing the correct size that you > can slip over the gooseneck extension on the oil can and also that fits > tight over the bleeder screw on the bottom of the caliper (you may have to > use two differenct sizes of tubing and some breeze clamps, etc.). > > You can actually do this by yourself without any help, but of course, if you > have a helper it makes it easier. I made myself a little pipe fitting that > screws into the top of the brake reservoir that has a brake bleeder fitting > screwed to it (or you can order one from Spruce, p/n 11225 for about $5). > You can attach another plastic tube here that drains into a catch can for > the overflow from the reservoir. > > Now just loosen the bleeder screw on one of the brake calipers, pump until > fluid overflows into the catch can. Go to the other caliper, repeat. If > the brake pedals feel firm you're done, if not, go back and forth between > calipers and just keep pumping fluid until both pedals feels solid. If this > doesn't work, something's very wrong. Should work. Let us know. > > You should start feeling resistance as soon as the pedal moves, fluid is > incompressible, so assuming no air and you are only moving the brake piston > perhaps an eigth of an inch max, so almost imediate resistance upon > depressing cylinder is the norm. > > Pat Hatch > RV-4 > RV-6 > RV-7 All Flying > Vero Beach, FL > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 06:15:03 PM PST US From: "lui" Subject: RV-List: Rooms @ Rippon for Oshkosh --> RV-List message posted by: "lui" In case you need room @ Oshkosh, Jack Gray has an extra room that doesn't need at the Rippon's College. I believe it is for 2-3 nights for $153 but check with him. You can reach him @ archerg@iapc.net or 281-543-8715 Later, L. ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 06:16:51 PM PST US From: "lui" Subject: RV-List: Room @ Rippon for Oshkosh --> RV-List message posted by: "lui" In case you need room @ Oshkosh, Jack Gray has an extra room that doesn't need at the Rippon's College. I believe it is for 2-3 nights for $153 but check with him. You can reach him @ archerg@iapc.net or 281-543-8715 Later, L. ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 06:19:29 PM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: flying to Oshkosh --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski Have to agree 90 kts is 50 MPH over stall. Thats a large margin of error. At 09:39 PM 7/16/2004 -0700, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer > >Bruce Gray wrote: > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" > > > >Tell that to Ben Moyle who dug a deep hole in the ground with a > >stall/spin on final in the 'slow' lane a couple of year ago in his > >Glasair III. The GIII can fly at 90 Kts and not overheat but it's not > >safe. > > > >Next time you don't have much to do, establish yourself at 5,000 agl and > >90 Kts. Trim things up so everything is stable, Pull the power to idle > >and wait for 3 seconds (the average time the FAA gives the pilot to > >react to an emergency). Now regain control of the airplane and assume > >normal glide attitude. Note your altitude loss. If you have a CS prop > >the number will shock you. Low and slow is a killer. > > > >Look for me at 2,300 msl and 135 Kts. > > > >Bruce > >www.glasair.org > > > > > > > > >Bruce that was a tragic accident, but a Glasair III is a totaly >different airplane than the RV's are. Personally I don't think >it is safe in a Glasair but it is perfectly safe in an RV. Gary is >correct if you can't fly your RV at 90 Kts. you better stay home. > >Jerry >do not archive > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 08:39:05 PM PST US From: "Dean Psiropoulos" Subject: RV-List: Torquing and other assundry questions. --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" I asked this a while back on the RV-6 list but that was before I realized that ALL the action is on the RV list not the RV-6 list. So=85. I=92ll ask again, maybe someone out there can tell me the answers. First the torquing: 1) Hiem joint jam nuts, do ya use a torque wrench w/crows foot and if so what torque value should I use 2) Fuel and vent line flare fittings, torque wrench with crows foot or what, if so what torque value 3) Elevator bellcrank pivot bolt, this is the quarter inch bolt that goes through the aluminum tube spacers and the bellcrank bearing, when I tighten it to the 75 inch pounds a =BC AN bolt is supposed to be tightened to, the bolt appears to bow in the assembly, should I be tightening this bolt this tight or use a different torque value, same question for the aileron bellcrank bolts 4) Rudder pedal and flap bearing plastic blocks, when I tighten the AN3 bolt to spec these blocks look like they get smashed down pretty good, is this too much torque for these blocks or not 5) Is there any special kind of grease that I should be using on the heim bearings, should I clean and grease em before final assembly, if so how 6) When installing the wing bolts a friend told me to use fuel lube on them, is this a good idea, does the fuel lube help them go in easier, does it keep them from corroding, being their in contact with a dissimilar metal 7) When I go to put my main landing gear on I=92ll have the wings and tail on the airplane but probably not the motor yet, for you guys who used spar plugs on your 6As to get your airplanes on the gear while finishing in your garage and then taking the plane out to the airport and having to put the wings on after everything else is done, how did you lift up the airplane to pull the spar plugs install the wings and reinstall the main gear mounts? Seems like the airplane would have to be lifted up quite a ways to install the gear legs from the bottom, how did you jack up the plane to do this 8) How did you run wiring through the main spar carry through (604 bulkhead), I use electric trim so I have the trim cable hole available but its not enough, can I enlarge this hole or maybe drill another next to it, the trim hole is large but I have an IFR stack and I=92ll probably need that hole just to run all the radio coax to the back of the plane, what is a good thing to do here Thanks for all the help Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM Installing wings ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 11:28:17 PM PST US From: Richard Scott Subject: RV-List: Re: flying to Oshkosh and thanks to Galley and crew --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Scott > >Scott, > >I beg to differ. EAA WAS about experimental aircraft. EAA is now about >sport aviation, as you may notice when you note the various divisions, one >for aerobatics, one for antiques and classics, etc. and remember the name >of EAA's magazine. > >The roster of our EAA chapter in Mulino, Oregon, shows about 56 members, >with about 27 projects or completed homebuilts, and an equal number of >factory built planes. Those who choose to fly factory built planes are >just as active and contribute just as much as the homebuilders--more, >perhaps, as several of the factory built planes are 4 place planes and flew >the majority of young eagles last year. > >When the Bonanza pilots want to arrive at Oshkosh together, I say, more >power to them, it just makes the party bigger! > >Richard Scott >1941 Interstate Cadet >RV-9A Emp. > >