Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:57 AM - Plenum (LarryRobertHelming)
2. 07:57 AM - Semco Sealant Cartridges (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
3. 08:19 AM - Re: Plenum (Jeff Point)
4. 08:36 AM - Re: Is my RV9A too slow? (Donald Mei)
5. 08:36 AM - Re: Plenum (Jim Anglin)
6. 09:56 AM - Some interesting pictures of a turbine installation in an RV-6A (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
7. 11:02 AM - Re: Initial electrical set up (Jeff Cours)
8. 11:13 AM - Re: Fw: plans (Jeff Cours)
9. 12:25 PM - Attaching Jig posts to cement floor. Was: "plans" (Jamie Painter)
10. 12:48 PM - Re: Attaching Jig posts to cement floor. Was: "plans" (Sam Buchanan)
11. 12:48 PM - Plenum Pics (Jeff Point)
12. 01:30 PM - Brake chatter (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
13. 01:35 PM - Re: Attaching Jig posts to cement floor. Was: "plans" (Randy Lervold)
14. 01:38 PM - Hoisting fuselage (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
15. 02:04 PM - Re: Attaching Jig posts to cement floor. Was: "plans" (Patrick Kelley)
16. 03:07 PM - Re: Attaching Jig posts to cement floor. Was: "plans" (Richard Lundin)
17. 03:46 PM - Re: Attaching Jig posts to cement floor. Was: "plans" (Scott Vanartsdalen)
18. 04:12 PM - Re: Brake chatter (Denis Walsh)
19. 04:47 PM - Re: Brake chatter (RV6 Flyer)
20. 05:06 PM - Re: Attaching Jig posts to cement floor. Was: "plans" (Dave Bristol)
21. 07:52 PM - Re: Plenum (DJB6A@cs.com)
22. 07:55 PM - Seeking some expertise (Brian)
23. 08:29 PM - Re: Seeking some expertise (Tom Gummo)
24. 08:37 PM - Re: Seeking some expertise (Karie Daniel)
25. 08:46 PM - Headset Recommendation (Kyle Boatright)
26. 08:49 PM - Re: Seeking some expertise (John Ammeter)
27. 09:01 PM - Re: Headset Recommendation (Cory Emberson)
28. 09:06 PM - Re: Photos of RV-4 Stick boots. (Jeff Bertsch)
29. 09:06 PM - Re: Seeking some expertise (Scott Vanartsdalen)
30. 10:13 PM - Re: Seeking some expertise (Kathleen (rv7))
31. 10:23 PM - Re: Seeking some expertise (Bruce Gray)
32. 11:25 PM - Re: Seeking some expertise (Bob 1)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Andy (or anyone else who wishes to respond), this has probably been just
about worn out as far as you are concerned, but I have a question that is
causing me to hesitate somewhat before making a fiberglass/epoxy based
plenum for my O-360. Is there any concern about the high temps in the
plenum after engine shut down that would cause the plenum to change its
shape when using West System epoxy? Is there a alternative to epoxy more
heat tolerant when using fiberglass or carbon fiber? Thanks.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Message 2
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| Subject: | Semco Sealant Cartridges |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
I purchased a surplus Semco gun on ebay and it seems to work well with
the prepackaged cartridges. However, when I ordered some additional
cartridges from AC Spruce they didn't come with the rear seal (the part
that the gun plunger pushes on). A couple empty cartridges were
included with the gun that had them. A call to AC Spruce didn't seem to
get much besides head scratching. I've also looked at the other
aviation tool places and haven't had any luck locating either the seals
or another source empty cartridges that do have them.
I'd use the filled cartridges from Vans except that in addition to being
much more expensive, I believe that they have 1/2 pot life instead of
the 2 hours that you get from mixing from the quart cans.
Surely I can't be the first to encounter this - any thoughts?
Bob
RV-10 #40105
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Have you considered forgetting the fiberglass and going with an aluminum
plenum? Probably a lot less work, and no worries about heat. I can
send you some pics of mine if you want ideas.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Is my RV9A too slow? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Kim, what RPM were you turning whan you were flat out? What altitude were
you indicating 140 Kts??
I flew an RV-9 / 160 back from Seattle to CT and found that at 2700 rpm my
true airspeed at 9500 feet was about 155 kts. I just read the TAS off the
instrument and don't have any real supporting info besides that.
Don
"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
An easy way to do a fibreglass lid is lay the lid up in the top of the
cowling and then fit and trim it to standard baffling with .032 angle bent
the appropiate angle to blend into the lid. Put the angles on in 6" pcs.
for temp flexxing and because it's easier to make them the proper angle. As
for the heat, it shouldn't be a problem because it will be cool when you are
flying and there won't be any pressure on it when it is hot (on the ground).
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Plenum
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
> Have you considered forgetting the fiberglass and going with an aluminum
> plenum? Probably a lot less work, and no worries about heat. I can
> send you some pics of mine if you want ideas.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6
> Milwaukee WI
>
>
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Some interesting pictures of a turbine installation in an RV-6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
http://riversaeronautical.com/rv6at.asp
<http://riversaeronautical.com/rv6at.asp>
A friend (Barefoot Billy) sold his plane to this company as a test bed.
Do not ask me any questions about this cause I know less than zero about
it. We have already hashed this turbine stuff recently in the list so
check there before going around the Mulberry bush again.
They do PLAN on flying it to Osh.
Michael Stewart
Do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Initial electrical set up |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
Curt Reimer wrote:
> Without getting into the math, redundant systems with fuses are going to be
> more reliable than a single system with a circuit breaker *every time*.
> Usually by several orders of magnitude.
It's been a long time since the last time I took a class that covered
redundant and reliable circuits, so I certainly don't mean this to come
across as arguing the point. I'm mostly trying to knock some of the rust
off the old neurons.
From what I remember, if you have multiple redundant systems, and you
assume independent failure probabilities across the systems (not sure
whether or not that's a good assumption, in this case), the probability
of a partial failure increases but the probability of a total failure
decreases. In other words, ignoring electrical fires, lightning strikes,
and other events that are likely to cause common failures, your chances
of having to replace a fuse should increase because there are more
things with fuses, but your chances of totally losing, say, all your
radios decrease because of the redundancy.
Do I have it right?
thanks,
Jeff C.
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Cours <rv-j@moriarti.org>
Jim Sears wrote:
> Gosh, guys. I'm glad I put my two cents in about my twisted rudder.
> It's raised some good discussion. Anyway, I used a simple jig and got
> almost all of the twist out.
I'm just coming up on the 7A's rudder skeleton now. Since I'm a first
time builder, and working on a newer 7A kit which doesn't seem to
describe any tail jigs[1], what sort of jig are you using and how are
you using it? I'm imagining an "H" made of 2x4's, with the uprights set
plumb, with center lines on the top of the horizontal bar and the
insides of the uprights. (Either that or a "U" on top of the work table,
with shelf brackets to hold the uprights.) Are you fastening the spar to
the horizontal piece somehow and then centering the end ribs on the
uprights? Also, are you running a string across the uprights for the
trailing edge, or just centering the end ribs?
thanks,
Jeff C.
[1] Or maybe I just missed it, which is certainly possible. Just this
morning I started hunting for the "detail view" on dwg 7 of the aft
holes in the rudder horn and haven't found it yet... There is a wing jig
description which I could probably adapt, but I haven't really gone into
it in detail, yet.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Attaching Jig posts to cement floor. Was: "plans" |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
After mulling over Dan's comment below I think that he makes a good point
about the cost/time factors of building and using a precision jig. Granted, I
still think that simple geometry tells me otherwise but you guys have
instilled enough doubt in me that I am converting my hacked together wing jig
to a more precision jig. Yes I'm stubborn...my wife let's me know about it
all the time. :-)
My wife has expressed her discomfort with my drilling holes into our cement
garage floor for attaching the posts (I'm not too thrilled about the idea
myself). My question: Does anyone have a clever method of attaching 4x4 jig
posts to a garage floor that doesn't involve drilling into the floor?
I mean, I know I can just go back with some cement crack filler and fill in
the darn holes, but I would like to avoid it if at all possible. I'm also
worried about cracking the floor.
Jamie
do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>> My main concern is this: I can't see how any component built from
completely pre-punched components could come out twisted. The only
possible exception could be something such as an inaccurate bend in a
folded trailing edge or the AEX wedge riveting I mentioned in my earlier
post.
>
> My comment whenever the "to jig or not to jig" topic comes up is: why
WOULDN'T you use jigs?! It doesn't cost diddly in terms of wood, screws,
clamps, plumb bobs, and fishing line. Just do it and take the variables out
of the equation!
>
> Just because Van's allows such-and-such acceptable twist in the wings
doesn't mean you shouldn't strive to ensure zero. It takes like 20 minutes
to build an H-stand for your HS (VS can be done there, too), and then you
just take the horizontal member down and it's your wing stand. Elevators,
rudder, etc. can be V-groove jigged on the bench. Helps to have 'em in a
stand like that when riveting anyway.
>
> In my book, 1/16" twist from root to tip on one of these wings is
unacceptable if it can be prevented -- and it CAN. Match-drilled or not,
just build the jig and be done with it.
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
http://rv.jpainter.org
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
http://rv.jpainter.org
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching Jig posts to cement floor. Was: "plans" |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Jamie Painter wrote:
My question: Does anyone have a clever method of attaching 4x4 jig
> posts to a garage floor that doesn't involve drilling into the floor?
Liquid Nail (other similar brand) construction adhesive available at any
building supply store.
Sam Buchanan
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
To all who requested pics of my plenum, I put some on a web site:
http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/rv6plenumpics/
Jeff Point
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Since we're on the subject of brakes...
Our RV6a went thru it's first set of pads at 216 hrs, and started to squeal
and chatter a little before we looked into it and discovered the pads down to
the rivets on the right side. Of course, thought replacing all pads would quiet
things down, but it didn't. The right side still howls and chatters after 3
hours and maybe 10 landings. BTW, the rotor looks fine.
Any thoughts/comments/cures from all you listers? Thanks mucho.
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching Jig posts to cement floor. Was: "plans" |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> My wife has expressed her discomfort with my drilling holes into our
cement
> garage floor for attaching the posts (I'm not too thrilled about the idea
> myself). My question: Does anyone have a clever method of attaching 4x4
jig
> posts to a garage floor that doesn't involve drilling into the floor?
>
> I mean, I know I can just go back with some cement crack filler and fill
in
> the darn holes, but I would like to avoid it if at all possible. I'm also
> worried about cracking the floor.
Liquid Nails, available at any home improvement center, about $3.50. You
dispense it with a caulking gun, works great. When it's time to take the jig
down just bend the wood post over and it will release. The dried Liquid
Nails can be then removed from the concrete with MEK.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 368 hrs, sold
RV-3B, empennage, about to start fuselage and secure my jig posts to the
floor with Liquid Nails
Message 14
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| Subject: | Hoisting fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Dean,
An engine hoist with a couple (for safety) of ratcheting cargo straps will
easily lift the fuse. I did this but had to anchor the tail at the same time.
Works very slick... You DO have an engine crane don't you? Best $149 spent. BTW,
do you miss Oregon yet? :)
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
7) When I go to put my main landing gear on I=92ll have the wings and
tail on the airplane but probably not the motor yet, for you guys who used
spar plugs on your 6As to get your airplanes on the gear while finishing in
your garage and then taking the plane out to the airport and having to put
the wings on after everything else is done, how did you lift up the airplane
to pull the spar plugs install the wings and reinstall the main gear mounts?
Seems like the airplane would have to be lifted up quite a ways to install
the gear legs from the bottom, how did you jack up the plane to do this
Message 15
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| Subject: | Attaching Jig posts to cement floor. Was: "plans" |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
You can check out my free-standing jig at
http://www.flion.com/rv6a/chap03.htm. Don't get too hung up on a
'precision' jig. It is possible to incorrectly align a part in a jig no
matter how accurately the jig was built. On the other hand, it is possible
to accurately align parts in any reasonable jig. Part of the semantic
problem is that we are not really talking about jigs but about fixtures -
structures designed to hold parts in position during assembly. As long as
the fixture is stable, your assemblies will stay where you set them. Save
your fine measuring for the parts themselves.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Fuselage being skinned, about to move to new home.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jamie Painter
Subject: RV-List: Attaching Jig posts to cement floor. Was: "plans"
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
After mulling over Dan's comment below I think that he makes a good point
about the cost/time factors of building and using a precision jig. Granted,
I
still think that simple geometry tells me otherwise but you guys have
instilled enough doubt in me that I am converting my hacked together wing
jig
to a more precision jig. Yes I'm stubborn...my wife let's me know about it
all the time. :-)
My wife has expressed her discomfort with my drilling holes into our cement
garage floor for attaching the posts (I'm not too thrilled about the idea
myself). My question: Does anyone have a clever method of attaching 4x4 jig
posts to a garage floor that doesn't involve drilling into the floor?
I mean, I know I can just go back with some cement crack filler and fill in
the darn holes, but I would like to avoid it if at all possible. I'm also
worried about cracking the floor.
Jamie
do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>> My main concern is this: I can't see how any component built from
completely pre-punched components could come out twisted. The only
possible exception could be something such as an inaccurate bend in a
folded trailing edge or the AEX wedge riveting I mentioned in my earlier
post.
>
> My comment whenever the "to jig or not to jig" topic comes up is: why
WOULDN'T you use jigs?! It doesn't cost diddly in terms of wood, screws,
clamps, plumb bobs, and fishing line. Just do it and take the variables out
of the equation!
>
> Just because Van's allows such-and-such acceptable twist in the wings
doesn't mean you shouldn't strive to ensure zero. It takes like 20 minutes
to build an H-stand for your HS (VS can be done there, too), and then you
just take the horizontal member down and it's your wing stand. Elevators,
rudder, etc. can be V-groove jigged on the bench. Helps to have 'em in a
stand like that when riveting anyway.
>
> In my book, 1/16" twist from root to tip on one of these wings is
unacceptable if it can be prevented -- and it CAN. Match-drilled or not,
just build the jig and be done with it.
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
http://rv.jpainter.org
Message 16
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| Subject: | Attaching Jig posts to cement floor. Was: "plans" |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Lundin <rlundin46@yahoo.com>
Use construction adhesive to attach the posts to the
concrete floor. Works great. I'm assuming you can
attach them to the ceiling as well, with screws nails
etc.
Rick
-- Patrick Kelley <webmaster@flion.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley"
> <webmaster@flion.com>
>
> You can check out my free-standing jig at
> http://www.flion.com/rv6a/chap03.htm. Don't get too
> hung up on a
> 'precision' jig. It is possible to incorrectly
> align a part in a jig no
> matter how accurately the jig was built. On the
> other hand, it is possible
> to accurately align parts in any reasonable jig.
> Part of the semantic
> problem is that we are not really talking about jigs
> but about fixtures -
> structures designed to hold parts in position during
> assembly. As long as
> the fixture is stable, your assemblies will stay
> where you set them. Save
> your fine measuring for the parts themselves.
>
> Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Fuselage being skinned,
> about to move to new home.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Jamie Painter
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Attaching Jig posts to cement
> floor. Was: "plans"
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter"
> <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
>
>
> After mulling over Dan's comment below I think that
> he makes a good point
> about the cost/time factors of building and using a
> precision jig. Granted,
> I
> still think that simple geometry tells me otherwise
> but you guys have
> instilled enough doubt in me that I am converting my
> hacked together wing
> jig
> to a more precision jig. Yes I'm stubborn...my wife
> let's me know about it
> all the time. :-)
>
> My wife has expressed her discomfort with my
> drilling holes into our cement
> garage floor for attaching the posts (I'm not too
> thrilled about the idea
> myself). My question: Does anyone have a clever
> method of attaching 4x4 jig
> posts to a garage floor that doesn't involve
> drilling into the floor?
>
> I mean, I know I can just go back with some cement
> crack filler and fill in
> the darn holes, but I would like to avoid it if at
> all possible. I'm also
> worried about cracking the floor.
>
> Jamie
>
> do not archive
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> <dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> >> My main concern is this: I can't see how any
> component built from
> completely pre-punched components could come out
> twisted. The only
> possible exception could be something such as an
> inaccurate bend in a
> folded trailing edge or the AEX wedge riveting I
> mentioned in my earlier
> post.
> >
> > My comment whenever the "to jig or not to jig"
> topic comes up is: why
> WOULDN'T you use jigs?! It doesn't cost diddly in
> terms of wood, screws,
> clamps, plumb bobs, and fishing line. Just do it
> and take the variables out
> of the equation!
> >
> > Just because Van's allows such-and-such acceptable
> twist in the wings
> doesn't mean you shouldn't strive to ensure zero.
> It takes like 20 minutes
> to build an H-stand for your HS (VS can be done
> there, too), and then you
> just take the horizontal member down and it's your
> wing stand. Elevators,
> rudder, etc. can be V-groove jigged on the bench.
> Helps to have 'em in a
> stand like that when riveting anyway.
> >
> > In my book, 1/16" twist from root to tip on one of
> these wings is
> unacceptable if it can be prevented -- and it CAN.
> Match-drilled or not,
> just build the jig and be done with it.
>
> --
> Jamie D. Painter
> RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
> http://rv.jpainter.org
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching Jig posts to cement floor. Was: "plans" |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I borrowed a friend's wing jig that was made from steel U channel (the upright
portion) with two pieces of steel angle bolted to them to make the "shelf" that
the wing spar rests on. There was a hex nut welded to the top and bottom of
the steel U channel uprights and a jackscrew was threaded through the nuts.
A steel plate was welded on the top and bottom ends of the two jackscrews along
with another nut. Then you just position the thing tighten the jackscrews against
your ceiling or truss and against the garage floor. The assembly would
have been better made out of aluminum but he works with steel so go figure.
I might be able to rustle up some photos if you're interested.
Jamie Painter <jdpainter@jpainter.org> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie
Painter"
After mulling over Dan's comment below I think that he makes a good point
about the cost/time factors of building and using a precision jig. Granted, I
still think that simple geometry tells me otherwise but you guys have
instilled enough doubt in me that I am converting my hacked together wing jig
to a more precision jig. Yes I'm stubborn...my wife let's me know about it
all the time. :-)
My wife has expressed her discomfort with my drilling holes into our cement
garage floor for attaching the posts (I'm not too thrilled about the idea
myself). My question: Does anyone have a clever method of attaching 4x4 jig
posts to a garage floor that doesn't involve drilling into the floor?
I mean, I know I can just go back with some cement crack filler and fill in
the darn holes, but I would like to avoid it if at all possible. I'm also
worried about cracking the floor.
Jamie
do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
>
>> My main concern is this: I can't see how any component built from
completely pre-punched components could come out twisted. The only
possible exception could be something such as an inaccurate bend in a
folded trailing edge or the AEX wedge riveting I mentioned in my earlier
post.
>
> My comment whenever the "to jig or not to jig" topic comes up is: why
WOULDN'T you use jigs?! It doesn't cost diddly in terms of wood, screws,
clamps, plumb bobs, and fishing line. Just do it and take the variables out
of the equation!
>
> Just because Van's allows such-and-such acceptable twist in the wings
doesn't mean you shouldn't strive to ensure zero. It takes like 20 minutes
to build an H-stand for your HS (VS can be done there, too), and then you
just take the horizontal member down and it's your wing stand. Elevators,
rudder, etc. can be V-groove jigged on the bench. Helps to have 'em in a
stand like that when riveting anyway.
>
> In my book, 1/16" twist from root to tip on one of these wings is
unacceptable if it can be prevented -- and it CAN. Match-drilled or not,
just build the jig and be done with it.
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
http://rv.jpainter.org
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings N622JP (reserved)
http://rv.jpainter.org
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Brake chatter |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
First check for a full release on all brake pedals. Reach in and see
if the pedals (especially the right side right pedal) always and easily
returns to the full aft position. If it does not then it would cause
the dragging brake which could cause the squeal and premature wear.
Lubricate, loosen and finally perhaps replace (or stretch) the return
springs.
There is very little movement in these master cylinders and it is easy
to miss a stiff pedal. The plane doesn't give much clue that a brake is
dragging unless it is really stuck hard.
Good luck. This will fix it 90% of the time. 95% if you have dual
brakes.
Denis
On Jul 19, 2004, at 2:29 PM, Jerry2DT@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>
> Since we're on the subject of brakes...
>
> Our RV6a went thru it's first set of pads at 216 hrs, and started to
> squeal
> and chatter a little before we looked into it and discovered the pads
> down to
> the rivets on the right side. Of course, thought replacing all pads
> would quiet
> things down, but it didn't. The right side still howls and chatters
> after 3
> hours and maybe 10 landings. BTW, the rotor looks fine.
>
> Any thoughts/comments/cures from all you listers? Thanks mucho.
>
> Jerry Cochran
> Wilsonville, OR
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
A number of years back, there was an RV-6(A) that had a squeal with the
brakes all the time from day one. Turns out there was hose all the way down
the gear to the caliper. Apply brakes, and the hose got stiff (tried to
straighten out) and caused a little out of alignment of the brakes to the
disc. When replaced with rigid tubing, it worked fine.
On my airplane with rigid tubing, I have seen the problem of squeal noise
from brakes on one occasion. After changing the lining, I got the tubing a
little out of line and that kept the pads from hitting the disc straight.
After about 3 attempts of adjusting the tubing, I got the tubing aligned
without any preload on the caliper. The noise was gone.
This may not be your problem but it is worth checking. It has happened to
me once and only trial an error (one change at a time) found the problem.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,527 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Brake chatter
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Since we're on the subject of brakes...
Our RV6a went thru it's first set of pads at 216 hrs, and started to squeal
and chatter a little before we looked into it and discovered the pads down
to
the rivets on the right side. Of course, thought replacing all pads would
quiet
things down, but it didn't. The right side still howls and chatters after 3
hours and maybe 10 landings. BTW, the rotor looks fine.
Any thoughts/comments/cures from all you listers? Thanks mucho.
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Attaching Jig posts to cement floor. Was: "plans" |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Bondo will hold it and it comes off easy.
Dave
Jamie Painter wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
>
>
>After mulling over Dan's comment below I think that he makes a good point
>about the cost/time factors of building and using a precision jig. Granted, I
>still think that simple geometry tells me otherwise but you guys have
>instilled enough doubt in me that I am converting my hacked together wing jig
>to a more precision jig. Yes I'm stubborn...my wife let's me know about it
>all the time. :-)
>
>My wife has expressed her discomfort with my drilling holes into our cement
>garage floor for attaching the posts (I'm not too thrilled about the idea
>myself). My question: Does anyone have a clever method of attaching 4x4 jig
>posts to a garage floor that doesn't involve drilling into the floor?
>
>I mean, I know I can just go back with some cement crack filler and fill in
>the darn holes, but I would like to avoid it if at all possible. I'm also
>worried about cracking the floor.
>
>Jamie
>
>do not archive
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>>
>>
>>
>>>My main concern is this: I can't see how any component built from
>>>
>>>
>completely pre-punched components could come out twisted. The only
>possible exception could be something such as an inaccurate bend in a
>folded trailing edge or the AEX wedge riveting I mentioned in my earlier
>post.
>
>
>>My comment whenever the "to jig or not to jig" topic comes up is: why
>>
>>
>WOULDN'T you use jigs?! It doesn't cost diddly in terms of wood, screws,
>clamps, plumb bobs, and fishing line. Just do it and take the variables out
>of the equation!
>
>
>>Just because Van's allows such-and-such acceptable twist in the wings
>>
>>
>doesn't mean you shouldn't strive to ensure zero. It takes like 20 minutes
>to build an H-stand for your HS (VS can be done there, too), and then you
>just take the horizontal member down and it's your wing stand. Elevators,
>rudder, etc. can be V-groove jigged on the bench. Helps to have 'em in a
>stand like that when riveting anyway.
>
>
>>In my book, 1/16" twist from root to tip on one of these wings is
>>
>>
>unacceptable if it can be prevented -- and it CAN. Match-drilled or not,
>just build the jig and be done with it.
>
>
>
Message 21
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com
Larry,
I built my plenum using the cowl as the top form. Then used foam to form the
rest of the plenum plug. I used West Epoxy and carbon fiber to try and reduce
weight. It took a lot of time and effort to make the plug, mold and them the
plenum - looks rather cool though. After I had finished it I spoke with Sam
James (James Holy Cowl) at Sun n Fun and he said he uses a special high temp
epoxy, but you have to have a "license" to buy it.
Any way I was pretty upset after talking with him, he suggested heat curing
it, I went home and put it in the Sauna increasing temp to 200F and then left
it there for an hour. When I went in to check it was hot, but fine, no
distortion.
I haven't flown yet - maybe September or October then I'll let you know if I
find a gooey mess under the cowl - don't expect to.
Dave Burnham
RV6A N64FN
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Seeking some expertise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian" <hogriding@ameritech.net>
Hello-
I am seeking some expertise in the purchase of an experimental aircraft.
I have been on this distribution list for apprx four months simply
observing all of the communication that takes place regarding the RV. I
have to admit that there is an impressive sense of camaraderie and pride
in owning an RV that I have not experienced anywhere else..
I would like to know if anyone can offer any information with respect to
purchasing an RV (-6a, -8a or -9a) vs Lancair or Glasair? I have begun
researching these planes but I am a neophyte with respect to owning my
own plane- especially an experimental. I have flown the traditional
Pipers Warriors, Archers, Cessna 172, 182 and the Aztec twin. Except for
the twin the other planes don't offer the enjoyment the experimentals
can.
I would like to invest in an aircraft that is economical to operate, has
strong performance, good cruise speed for those long cross country
trips, stable enough to be flown in instrument conditions yet take off
from a 2200 foot grass strip with an obstacle (tall pine tress) in WI
when the temp is 95 degrees coupled with a high density altitude and a
passenger (I know it's a lot to ask)..
A friend of mine gave me a ride in the back seat of an RV-4 and it was a
lot great! That ride is what really led to my peaked interest in
purchasing (I don't have any place to build so maybe sometime down the
road) one of the aircraft mentioned above.. I have to say I am leaning
on the RV series but I need to compare the facts..
Ultimately, I understand it does come down to personal preference, but
if anyone has gone through this process and has any insight to offer I
would really appreciate the feedback.
Thank you very much-
Brian
Starting from the basics
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Seeking some expertise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Brian,
I have flown in a Lancair a couple of times (but I am not an expert nor do I
play one on TV) but isn't 2200 feet a little short for those plastic planes
with tall trees at each end. Bruce (Glasair III), jump in here, and set the
record straight. What is the min runway length that you would be comfortable
in these planes?
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian" <hogriding@ameritech.net>
Subject: RV-List: Seeking some expertise
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian" <hogriding@ameritech.net>
>
> Hello-
>
> I am seeking some expertise in the purchase of an experimental aircraft.
> I have been on this distribution list for apprx four months simply
> observing all of the communication that takes place regarding the RV. I
> have to admit that there is an impressive sense of camaraderie and pride
> in owning an RV that I have not experienced anywhere else..
>
> I would like to know if anyone can offer any information with respect to
> purchasing an RV (-6a, -8a or -9a) vs Lancair or Glasair? I have begun
> researching these planes but I am a neophyte with respect to owning my
> own plane- especially an experimental. I have flown the traditional
> Pipers Warriors, Archers, Cessna 172, 182 and the Aztec twin. Except for
> the twin the other planes don't offer the enjoyment the experimentals
> can.
>
> I would like to invest in an aircraft that is economical to operate, has
> strong performance, good cruise speed for those long cross country
> trips, stable enough to be flown in instrument conditions yet take off
> from a 2200 foot grass strip with an obstacle (tall pine tress) in WI
> when the temp is 95 degrees coupled with a high density altitude and a
> passenger (I know it's a lot to ask)..
>
> A friend of mine gave me a ride in the back seat of an RV-4 and it was a
> lot great! That ride is what really led to my peaked interest in
> purchasing (I don't have any place to build so maybe sometime down the
> road) one of the aircraft mentioned above.. I have to say I am leaning
> on the RV series but I need to compare the facts..
>
> Ultimately, I understand it does come down to personal preference, but
> if anyone has gone through this process and has any insight to offer I
> would really appreciate the feedback.
>
> Thank you very much-
>
> Brian
> Starting from the basics
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Seeking some expertise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Brian,
What part of the country do you live? Vans has no problem burning a little
100LL to help you make this decision. If you aren't near Oregon then most
likely there is an EAA chapter not far away from where you do live. Visit a
meeting, talk to the members who are always glad to show off their pride and
joy.
Also to know more about each or the RV's be sure to vist
HTTP://www.vansaircraft.com you will find a wealth of pre-purchase
information regarding all of their aircraft. Good Luck and FWIW....some
builders started out in their living room before moving to the garage.
Karie Daniel
RV-7A QB
Sammamish, WA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian" <hogriding@ameritech.net>
Subject: RV-List: Seeking some expertise
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian" <hogriding@ameritech.net>
>
> Hello-
>
> I am seeking some expertise in the purchase of an experimental aircraft.
> I have been on this distribution list for apprx four months simply
> observing all of the communication that takes place regarding the RV. I
> have to admit that there is an impressive sense of camaraderie and pride
> in owning an RV that I have not experienced anywhere else..
>
> I would like to know if anyone can offer any information with respect to
> purchasing an RV (-6a, -8a or -9a) vs Lancair or Glasair? I have begun
> researching these planes but I am a neophyte with respect to owning my
> own plane- especially an experimental. I have flown the traditional
> Pipers Warriors, Archers, Cessna 172, 182 and the Aztec twin. Except for
> the twin the other planes don't offer the enjoyment the experimentals
> can.
>
> I would like to invest in an aircraft that is economical to operate, has
> strong performance, good cruise speed for those long cross country
> trips, stable enough to be flown in instrument conditions yet take off
> from a 2200 foot grass strip with an obstacle (tall pine tress) in WI
> when the temp is 95 degrees coupled with a high density altitude and a
> passenger (I know it's a lot to ask)..
>
> A friend of mine gave me a ride in the back seat of an RV-4 and it was a
> lot great! That ride is what really led to my peaked interest in
> purchasing (I don't have any place to build so maybe sometime down the
> road) one of the aircraft mentioned above.. I have to say I am leaning
> on the RV series but I need to compare the facts..
>
> Ultimately, I understand it does come down to personal preference, but
> if anyone has gone through this process and has any insight to offer I
> would really appreciate the feedback.
>
> Thank you very much-
>
> Brian
> Starting from the basics
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Headset Recommendation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
I need to upgrade my passenger (AKA wife) headsets. I have a set of Lightspeed
25XL's, and would consider buying another set of Lightspeed's for her, but they
only offer headsets with the mic and cord on the left, and I need the cord
on the right for my passenger.
Recommendations?
Thanks in advance,
KB
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Seeking some expertise |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter <jammeter@comcast.net>
On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 20:34:15 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
>Brian,
>What part of the country do you live? Vans has no problem burning a little
>100LL to help you make this decision. If you aren't near Oregon then most
>likely there is an EAA chapter not far away from where you do live. Visit a
>meeting, talk to the members who are always glad to show off their pride and
>joy.
>
>Also to know more about each or the RV's be sure to vist
>HTTP://www.vansaircraft.com you will find a wealth of pre-purchase
>information regarding all of their aircraft. Good Luck and FWIW....some
>builders started out in their living room before moving to the garage.
>
>Karie Daniel
>RV-7A QB
>Sammamish, WA.
>
>
I recall one Project Visit where the RV was being built in
the living room. BTW, the builder was single... He was
planning on replacing the carpet after finishing the
airplane.
John Ammeter
Message 27
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| Subject: | Headset Recommendation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cory Emberson" <bootless@earthlink.net>
I have Peltors and love them.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Subject: RV-List: Headset Recommendation
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
I need to upgrade my passenger (AKA wife) headsets. I have a set of
Lightspeed 25XL's, and would consider buying another set of Lightspeed's for
her, but they only offer headsets with the mic and cord on the left, and I
need the cord on the right for my passenger.
Recommendations?
Thanks in advance,
KB
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Photos of RV-4 Stick boots. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
I am also looking for ideas for stick boots - especially in the rear seat of my
RV-4. (It seems whenever I drop anything, it always goes into the hole.)
So please also send me any pictures you may have.
noms1reqd@yahoo.com
Thanks.
Jeff Bertsch
lonestarsquadron.com
---------------------------------
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Seeking some expertise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
It sounds like the plane you want is the RV-10 but it won't be available to purchase
in any price range for quite some time. I'd look for a nice used RV-6A
with 180 horse motor and a constant speed prop. That's probably your best bet
for a semi-economical go-anywhere-with-a-passenger machine. The RV-4 is your
best bet for a pure-joy machine (ok, maybe an RV-3) but you won't find either
in 'A' configurations.
If you're approaching this as an investment, be forewarned that you might not fit
in with the vast majority of the RV crowd. Most of us built ours from the
ground up for the pure love of these planes. Buying one for an investment is
fine, just don't tell anyone about it. :-)
I hope you read the thread recently on using RV's as instrument platforms. The
concensus (I'm not IFR rated so I have no opinion) is that unless you are at
the top of your IFR game you might want to think twice about it. Most agreed
that they are fine for punching through morning and marine stratus but it didn't
sound like you'd want to battle a decent storm in one. Sounded like an autopilot
was a must for IFR types in RVs.
95 deg, tall pine trees, 2200' strip, passenger. Hmmm might be cutting it close.
Definately doable solo. Maybe some of those trees could mysteriously fall
down in the middle of the night. It's been known to happen.
You might have to adjust your expectations slightly but you definately won't be
disappointed. Then again, there's always some RV-er out there ready and willing
to make a liar out of me.
Oh, and you'd not just like the plane but love it if you built it yourself. Yes
it's a sacrifice but is there anyone here who will say it wasn't worth it?
At least give it some thought.
Brian <hogriding@ameritech.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian"
Hello-
I am seeking some expertise in the purchase of an experimental aircraft.
I have been on this distribution list for apprx four months simply
observing all of the communication that takes place regarding the RV. I
have to admit that there is an impressive sense of camaraderie and pride
in owning an RV that I have not experienced anywhere else..
I would like to know if anyone can offer any information with respect to
purchasing an RV (-6a, -8a or -9a) vs Lancair or Glasair? I have begun
researching these planes but I am a neophyte with respect to owning my
own plane- especially an experimental. I have flown the traditional
Pipers Warriors, Archers, Cessna 172, 182 and the Aztec twin. Except for
the twin the other planes don't offer the enjoyment the experimentals
can.
I would like to invest in an aircraft that is economical to operate, has
strong performance, good cruise speed for those long cross country
trips, stable enough to be flown in instrument conditions yet take off
from a 2200 foot grass strip with an obstacle (tall pine tress) in WI
when the temp is 95 degrees coupled with a high density altitude and a
passenger (I know it's a lot to ask)..
A friend of mine gave me a ride in the back seat of an RV-4 and it was a
lot great! That ride is what really led to my peaked interest in
purchasing (I don't have any place to build so maybe sometime down the
road) one of the aircraft mentioned above.. I have to say I am leaning
on the RV series but I need to compare the facts..
Ultimately, I understand it does come down to personal preference, but
if anyone has gone through this process and has any insight to offer I
would really appreciate the feedback.
Thank you very much-
Brian
Starting from the basics
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Seeking some expertise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen@rv7.us>
Brian,
If you really are considering buying a homebuilt, there is one point to
consider that is always in the back of my mind regarding the difference
between conventional metal and glass airplanes. That is, how do you tell
if a glass airframe has been damaged and improperly repaired? It is pretty
hard to hide from an experienced eye when sheetmetal has been pounded out or
filled with bondo, but glass planes are especially easy to fill and hide the
evidence. Truly, most builders and owners are honest and want it done
right, but your ability to know that for sure is much stronger with a
sheetmetal airplane. If you've ever worked with fiberglass, you know that
it would be very easy to fill a structural crack and paint over it. To the
eye, it would look perfect and there are very few ways to find the defect.
I wouldn't be very confident buying a glass plane (homebuilt or certified)
unless I knew the seller very very well, but that's just one woman's
opinion....
Kathleen Evans
Folsom, CA
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian
Subject: RV-List: Seeking some expertise
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian" <hogriding@ameritech.net>
Hello-
I am seeking some expertise in the purchase of an experimental aircraft.
I have been on this distribution list for apprx four months simply observing
all of the communication that takes place regarding the RV. I have to admit
that there is an impressive sense of camaraderie and pride in owning an RV
that I have not experienced anywhere else..
I would like to know if anyone can offer any information with respect to
purchasing an RV (-6a, -8a or -9a) vs Lancair or Glasair? I have begun
researching these planes but I am a neophyte with respect to owning my own
plane- especially an experimental. I have flown the traditional Pipers
Warriors, Archers, Cessna 172, 182 and the Aztec twin. Except for the twin
the other planes don't offer the enjoyment the experimentals can.
I would like to invest in an aircraft that is economical to operate, has
strong performance, good cruise speed for those long cross country trips,
stable enough to be flown in instrument conditions yet take off from a 2200
foot grass strip with an obstacle (tall pine tress) in WI when the temp is
95 degrees coupled with a high density altitude and a passenger (I know it's
a lot to ask)..
A friend of mine gave me a ride in the back seat of an RV-4 and it was a lot
great! That ride is what really led to my peaked interest in purchasing (I
don't have any place to build so maybe sometime down the
road) one of the aircraft mentioned above.. I have to say I am leaning on
the RV series but I need to compare the facts..
Ultimately, I understand it does come down to personal preference, but if
anyone has gone through this process and has any insight to offer I would
really appreciate the feedback.
Thank you very much-
Brian
Starting from the basics
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 31
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| Subject: | Seeking some expertise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
A Glasair II - 2,500 feet
A Glasair III - 3,000 feet.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Gummo
Subject: Re: RV-List: Seeking some expertise
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Brian,
I have flown in a Lancair a couple of times (but I am not an expert nor
do I
play one on TV) but isn't 2200 feet a little short for those plastic
planes
with tall trees at each end. Bruce (Glasair III), jump in here, and set
the
record straight. What is the min runway length that you would be
comfortable
in these planes?
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian" <hogriding@ameritech.net>
Subject: RV-List: Seeking some expertise
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian" <hogriding@ameritech.net>
>
> Hello-
>
> I am seeking some expertise in the purchase of an experimental
aircraft.
> I have been on this distribution list for apprx four months simply
> observing all of the communication that takes place regarding the RV.
I
> have to admit that there is an impressive sense of camaraderie and
pride
> in owning an RV that I have not experienced anywhere else..
>
> I would like to know if anyone can offer any information with respect
to
> purchasing an RV (-6a, -8a or -9a) vs Lancair or Glasair? I have
begun
> researching these planes but I am a neophyte with respect to owning my
> own plane- especially an experimental. I have flown the traditional
> Pipers Warriors, Archers, Cessna 172, 182 and the Aztec twin. Except
for
> the twin the other planes don't offer the enjoyment the experimentals
> can.
>
> I would like to invest in an aircraft that is economical to operate,
has
> strong performance, good cruise speed for those long cross country
> trips, stable enough to be flown in instrument conditions yet take off
> from a 2200 foot grass strip with an obstacle (tall pine tress) in WI
> when the temp is 95 degrees coupled with a high density altitude and a
> passenger (I know it's a lot to ask)..
>
> A friend of mine gave me a ride in the back seat of an RV-4 and it was
a
> lot great! That ride is what really led to my peaked interest in
> purchasing (I don't have any place to build so maybe sometime down the
> road) one of the aircraft mentioned above.. I have to say I am
leaning
> on the RV series but I need to compare the facts..
>
> Ultimately, I understand it does come down to personal preference, but
> if anyone has gone through this process and has any insight to offer I
> would really appreciate the feedback.
>
> Thank you very much-
>
> Brian
> Starting from the basics
>
>
==
==
==
==
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Seeking some expertise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" <rv3a@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian" <hogriding@ameritech.net>
Subject: RV-List: Seeking some expertise
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian" <hogriding@ameritech.net>
>
> Hello-
>
>
> I would like to know if anyone can offer any information with respect to
> purchasing an RV (-6a, -8a or -9a) vs Lancair or Glasair? I have begun
> researching these planes but I am a neophyte with respect to owning my
> own plane- especially an experimental. I have flown the traditional
> Pipers Warriors, Archers, Cessna 172, 182 and the Aztec twin. Except for
> the twin the other planes don't offer the enjoyment the experimentals
> can.
>
> I would like to invest in an aircraft that is economical to operate, has
> strong performance, good cruise speed for those long cross country
> trips, stable enough to be flown in instrument conditions yet take off
> from a 2200 foot grass strip with an obstacle (tall pine tress) in WI
> when the temp is 95 degrees coupled with a high density altitude and a
> passenger (I know it's a lot to ask)..
>
> Thank you very much-
>
> Brian
> Starting from the basics
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
I have a conservative friend that flies a Glasair III.
It will never see a 2500 foot strip with tall trees on each end...
hot summer or cold winter.
An acquaintance owns a 2500 foot grass strip with 80' trees all around.
Lots of RV's have flown in there.
Not one Lancair or Glasair, yet.
They buzz and then fly on by.
Lancair and Glasair aircraft go faster... and land faster. RV's they are
not, so the 'economies" are different. Also, be sure to check with your
insurance agent before you purchase either one. The two doods I know flying
these very hi performance aircraft are self insured because of rates and/or
availability. One is a retired airline pilot, the other a very accomplished
aerobatic pilot.
Bob
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