Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:07 AM - Re: New engine and prop... long... (Doug Gray)
2. 03:23 AM - Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing (Jim Sears)
3. 03:39 AM - Blue Mountain EFIS for sale on ebay (Kirk Hammersmith)
4. 04:31 AM - Re: Blue Mountain EFIS for sale on ebay (Mickey Coggins)
5. 05:56 AM - Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing (cgalley)
6. 06:06 AM - Bahamas trip in November? (Garrett, Randy L (C4S))
7. 06:29 AM - Re: RV7A Rudder... (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
8. 06:35 AM - RV10 (Ron Walker)
9. 07:02 AM - Re: Bahamas trip in November? (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
10. 07:34 AM - Hotel room available for OSH (David Grover)
11. 08:38 AM - Need help with brake lines (Jason Sneed)
12. 09:50 AM - Re: RV10 (Jim Sears)
13. 10:02 AM - Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing (Jim Sears)
14. 10:04 AM - Paint Inquiry (rebibb@comcast.net)
15. 11:21 AM - Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing (JusCash@aol.com)
16. 12:06 PM - Re: Need help with brake lines (Tim Bryan)
17. 12:59 PM - Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing (Dean)
18. 01:32 PM - Avionics shop in New England? (Garrett, Randy L (C4S))
19. 01:47 PM - Re: Pressure Trivia (was carrying pressurized cylinders) (Sebastian Trost)
20. 04:28 PM - Re: Need help with brake lines (Mike Robertson)
21. 04:33 PM - Camping in Vintage Camping in Oshkosh (Gert)
22. 05:24 PM - Re: Pressure Trivia (was carrying pressurized cylinders) (Tedd McHenry)
23. 06:01 PM - Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door (Ralph E. Capen)
24. 06:25 PM - Re: Need help with brake lines (N223RV@aol.com)
25. 06:51 PM - Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door (linn walters)
26. 07:07 PM - Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door (Jeff Point)
27. 07:46 PM - Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door (Laird Owens)
28. 09:15 PM - Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door (Harvey Sigmon)
29. 10:20 PM - Tach & Tune and Bank for sale (Jim Anglin)
30. 11:31 PM - Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: New engine and prop... long... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Yes, I say fuel up and go take some more measurements....
do not archive..
Dave Bristol wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
> Doug and Kevin,
>
> It seems to me that since GPS does not give "heading" information, that
> data would have had to come from the DG or compass, both of which are a
> little suspect accuracy wise. So I would think it more prudent to make
> another test flight and get the "track" data from the GPS. Or maybe I'm
> missing something? : > )
>
> Thanks for a another great tool and all the really usable info you guys
> give us on a regular basis!
>
> Dave Bristol
>
>
> Doug Gray wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>>
>>Kevin,
>>
>>I agree, why not eliminate the error if we can. A GPS and the simple
>>calculation provides a remarkably precise tool to make real performance
>>assessment.
>>
>>To make use of Heading rather than the GPS track data the solution is to
>>create a new cell that is the sum of the squares of the differences
>>between the spreadsheet's Heading output cells and the actual headings
>>recorded.
>>
>>Then, use the 'solver' tool to minimise this cell (ie zero since it is
>>the sum of squares) while varying the three track input fields.
>>
>>It is a bit messy, but has rescued more than one flight data set.
>>
>>Note.. I believe some GPS manufacturers label the 'Track' data field as
>>'Heading'. This does not help.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> You're gonna want to replace that bolt you sanded ASAP! You most likely
> removed the cad plating, and the bolt can now rust. The intent is not for
> the bushing to rotate around the bolt -- rather the bellcrank rotates
around
> the bushing. To make this perfectly clear...the bolt & bushing should
> remain STATIONARY with respect to the plane and each other. This is the
> case for aileron bellcranks, control stick pivots, etc.
>
> (Note: I'm speaking in terms of RV-7 and RV-8 wings only...I can't speak
for
> the design on other models, but I presume they're similar.)
Dan is correct; but, my controls don't work that way. When I was building
Scooter, I approached my local A&Ps with IAs and discussed how the assembly
is to be built. I could build it as Dan stated; or, I could build it making
the bushing stationary and let it rotate about the bolt. The latter was the
preferred method, by general concensus amongst us. The reason being is to
let the bolt wear out before the assembly. It's easier to replace the bolt
than it is to replace the weldment, if that still exists when the weldment
wears out. Granted, we could be talking about years from now; but, I still
liked the idea of replacing a bolt rather than the assembly. I installed my
bushing with a very tight fit and let the bolt rotate within it. I also
changed out the bolts so that I could use castellated nuts and cotter pins.
I also installed washers at each end of the bushing for friction relief. So
far, it's working quite well. I keep the bolt lubed with LPS-2, each year.
There's very little friction there; so, the bolt should last well into this
century. If not, I'll buy a bushing and bolt instead of an assembly. Much
cheaper to fix, that way.
Although I'm not advocating anyone's changing the way they're doing their
assembly, I just wanted you to know that there is another way to approach
the problem. I'm sure the cad plating is already gone on my bolts because
of the rotation. I'm not planning on replacing them anytime soon, though.
I'm also going to use the same method on my new -7A because it seems like
the right thing to do for me.
Now, to the original question. When the rubbing occurs, is the bolt
tightened down or loose? I'm betting the bolts are straight. You could do
a roll test on a very flat surface and watch for light under them as you
roll them. A bent bolt will have light variances under them as they are
rolled. Is it possible that when you tighten down the bolts that you may be
bending the bushing ever so slightly? I can remember vaguely that mine did
that until I changed my approach to the problem. I can't swear to that,
though. It was a very long time ago.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Finishing the tail. Wings awaitin')
EAA Technical Counselor
EAA Flight Advisor
Message 3
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| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS for sale on ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kirk Hammersmith" <kirk@direct2avionics.com>
For anyone interested in a BM EFIS or BM EFIS Lite, I came accross this on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd1&item2485259014&category26436&sspagenameWDVW
Kirk
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain EFIS for sale on ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
The = signs get removed for some reason, probably a
Microsoft conspiracy. :-)
Try this simplified URL:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2485259014
or search for item number 2485259014.
Mickey
>For anyone interested in a BM EFIS or BM EFIS Lite, I came accross this on ebay.
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd1&item2485259014&category26436&sspagenameWDVW
>
>Kirk
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Let me take a different approach. When the bushing rotates on the bolt, the
bolt assumes all the loadings. When the bushing does not rotate on the bolt,
all loadings are taken by the bushing, Since the bushing is larger, it is
stronger to let the fitting rotate about the bushing. That is the way Van
and many others design pivots so they can use a bolt that is small for
lightness but doesn't have the critical strength necessary.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears@searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
>
>
> > You're gonna want to replace that bolt you sanded ASAP! You most likely
> > removed the cad plating, and the bolt can now rust. The intent is not
for
> > the bushing to rotate around the bolt -- rather the bellcrank rotates
> around
> > the bushing. To make this perfectly clear...the bolt & bushing should
> > remain STATIONARY with respect to the plane and each other. This is the
> > case for aileron bellcranks, control stick pivots, etc.
> >
> > (Note: I'm speaking in terms of RV-7 and RV-8 wings only...I can't speak
> for
> > the design on other models, but I presume they're similar.)
>
> Dan is correct; but, my controls don't work that way. When I was building
> Scooter, I approached my local A&Ps with IAs and discussed how the
assembly
> is to be built. I could build it as Dan stated; or, I could build it
making
> the bushing stationary and let it rotate about the bolt. The latter was
the
> preferred method, by general concensus amongst us. The reason being is to
> let the bolt wear out before the assembly. It's easier to replace the
bolt
> than it is to replace the weldment, if that still exists when the weldment
> wears out. Granted, we could be talking about years from now; but, I
still
> liked the idea of replacing a bolt rather than the assembly. I installed
my
> bushing with a very tight fit and let the bolt rotate within it. I also
> changed out the bolts so that I could use castellated nuts and cotter
pins.
> I also installed washers at each end of the bushing for friction relief.
So
> far, it's working quite well. I keep the bolt lubed with LPS-2, each
year.
> There's very little friction there; so, the bolt should last well into
this
> century. If not, I'll buy a bushing and bolt instead of an assembly.
Much
> cheaper to fix, that way.
>
> Although I'm not advocating anyone's changing the way they're doing their
> assembly, I just wanted you to know that there is another way to approach
> the problem. I'm sure the cad plating is already gone on my bolts because
> of the rotation. I'm not planning on replacing them anytime soon, though.
> I'm also going to use the same method on my new -7A because it seems like
> the right thing to do for me.
>
> Now, to the original question. When the rubbing occurs, is the bolt
> tightened down or loose? I'm betting the bolts are straight. You could
do
> a roll test on a very flat surface and watch for light under them as you
> roll them. A bent bolt will have light variances under them as they are
> rolled. Is it possible that when you tighten down the bolts that you may
be
> bending the bushing ever so slightly? I can remember vaguely that mine
did
> that until I changed my approach to the problem. I can't swear to that,
> though. It was a very long time ago.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
> RV-7A #70317 (Finishing the tail. Wings awaitin')
> EAA Technical Counselor
> EAA Flight Advisor
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Bahamas trip in November? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Garrett, Randy L (C4S)" <Randy.L.Garrett@gdc4s.com>
John King (kingjohn@erols.com) is organizing a trip to the Bahamas in November.
John has a Kitfox, but has opened this trip to RV's and other types as well. For a sample of John's excellent trip planning skills (and a really fun read), see http://www.sportflight.com/alaska/
I am planning to go. If anyone else is interested, please contact John by email.
Randy
RV-6A
380 hours
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Travis -
I haven't yet mounted the bottom rudder tip on my -7; I'm waiting till the
tail is mounted to make sure there isn't a gross mismatch in the
tailcone-to-rudder intersection. Mine has a line scribed in the gelcoat. A
call to Van's confirmed my suspicion that the scribed line is a trim-to
mark. If you're burning to cut it now just to have something to do, trim to
the scribe mark...
Neal George, RV-7 N8ZG (wings)
> I am having trouble visualizing what needs to get cut and where to cut it.
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
Got my first look up close at an RV10 under construction. I've seen the
factory demo one, but seeing the 'guts' really gives you a better
understanding of it. Really sweet lookin even without the skins. These guys
had the emp done, QB wings and were working on the fuse. They're really
making progress and will have it in the air before ya know it.
What *really* impressed me were the new plans! The way the instructions are
printed along side of the assembly drawings now on legal size paper bound in
a binder ! A very nice layout! They just keep getting better and better! Now
if they could go back and retrofit the 7 plans to that format ;o) Wouldn't
help me at all ... but there are plenty out there that WOULD benefit !
It was also cool seeing a 6A, 7A, 9A and 10 all in the same hangar space
that's not at the Vans factory!
Ron
N520TX - 41 hrs and out of my Phase 1 prison cell !!!
Message 9
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| Subject: | Bahamas trip in November? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Feel free to poke around the site I created for the flight of 15 RV's 3
months ago to the Bahamas and the Turks. It will probably have some
useful info for newbees. This site was the central communications tool
for the group. It was indeed a trip of a lifetime. Funny thing is we all
are interested in headin for Alaska on our next adventure.
Enjoy.
Mike Stewart
http://www.mstewart.net/teamrv/turkscaicos
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garrett, Randy
L (C4S)
Subject: RV-List: Bahamas trip in November?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Garrett, Randy L (C4S)"
<Randy.L.Garrett@gdc4s.com>
John King (kingjohn@erols.com) is organizing a trip to the Bahamas in
November.
John has a Kitfox, but has opened this trip to RV's and other types as
well. For a sample of John's excellent trip planning skills (and a
really fun read), see http://www.sportflight.com/alaska/
I am planning to go. If anyone else is interested, please contact John
by email.
Randy
RV-6A
380 hours
==
==
==
==
Message 10
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| Subject: | Hotel room available for OSH |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Grover" <grover@ev1.net>
I have reservation for a room at the Best Western in Ripon starting July
28 - Aug. 1st. that I am not going to be able to use. If anyone is
interested in any or all of the days in the block that I have reserved
please contact me off the list.
David Grover
grover@ev1.net
Message 11
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| Subject: | Need help with brake lines |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
I have an RV-6 and I have had numerous problems with my brake lines.
The builder used what looks like plastic (poly) brake lines down the
gear leg fairing to the caliper. A couple times the caliper heated up
and melted the plastic tube at the fitting and I lost all my fluid.
Yesterday I did a fast no flap landing and my right brake pedal was
very stiff after landing (probably due to the brake fluid being VERY
hot) once stopped I mashed the brake and POP. At the very top of the
gear leg fairing I have a pin hole in the plastic which leaked the
fluid. I am getting pretty good at landing on a 2000 foot strip with no
brakes but I do not think this is a good thing to brag about.
Obviously I have to get rid of the plastic hose on both sides my
questions are:
1. What type of hose to use?
2. I have woods stiffeners on my gear legs wrapped in glass, do I need
to remove this to install the brake line?
3. Do I need to order pre-made hoses or can I make my own?
4. Is aluminum tubbing better that steel braided? or is there something
better?
5. my brake lines basically are in the middle of the wood stiffeners.
Any help would be great...
Thanks,
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
www.highland-parks.com/n242ds
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> What *really* impressed me were the new plans! The way the instructions
are
> printed along side of the assembly drawings now on legal size paper bound
in
> a binder ! A very nice layout! They just keep getting better and better!
Now
> if they could go back and retrofit the 7 plans to that format ;o) Wouldn't
> help me at all ... but there are plenty out there that WOULD benefit !
Like Ron, I do like the way they did it; but, I can attest to seeing some
instructions that really need to be edited to make sense. A friend showed
me one that I must have read at least three or four times and still didn't
get much sense out of. As Dana says, we've become assemblers. :-) Even
with some of the minor problems I'm having with the -7A, it sure beats all
of the trial fitting I had to do with the -6A. Not having the mark and
drill holes is nice, as well.
Jim Sears in KY
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> Let me take a different approach. When the bushing rotates on the bolt,
the
> bolt assumes all the loadings. When the bushing does not rotate on the
bolt,
> all loadings are taken by the bushing, Since the bushing is larger, it is
> stronger to let the fitting rotate about the bushing. That is the way Van
> and many others design pivots so they can use a bolt that is small for
> lightness but doesn't have the critical strength necessary.
That's a good observation; but, it seems to me that the loads, which haven't
been very heavy in my RV, would be in shear. If that's the case, wouldn't
the shear loads be carried by the bolt, no matter how big or small it is and
which of the two methods is used? I'm no engineer; so, I can't swear to it.
I just know the method I used was the preferred method when I talked with my
IA buddies. It made sense then and still does. I think we talked about
shear, as well. It's been a long while ago, though. With the bolt rotating
in the bushing, one might want to check the bolt for wear more often than
when the assembly is rotating around the bushing. I don't think it rotates
all that much, though. Unless one is beating the heck out of the end points
of the stick throws, there is very little force on those bolts. Just how
much force is required when one is flying by barely touching the stick with
the fingertips? Even when the loads are heavier in the pattern, they
aren't very much because we trim that out. Under aerobatic loads, one might
see things load up a bit. Since I'm a big chicken, I've not experienced
those loads in Scooter. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
Message 14
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0.5 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
--> RV-List message posted by: rebibb@comcast.net
Has anyone ever used National Paint Industries Uraglow Polyurethane Enamel? I'm
thinkking using it on my RV and wanted to see if anyone has ever used or seen
it being used.
Thanks
Has anyone ever used National Paint Industries Uraglow Polyurethane Enamel? I'm
thinkking using it on my RV and wanted to see if anyone has ever used or seen
it being used.
Thanks
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
Thanks Cy, that was the explanation I was going to send. The reason you gave
was hashed out on the list a few years ago.
Cash Copeland A&P
RV-6 N46FC
Hayward, Ca
In a message dated 7/22/2004 5:57:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
cgalley@qcbc.org writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Let me take a different approach. When the bushing rotates on the bolt, the
bolt assumes all the loadings. When the bushing does not rotate on the bolt,
all loadings are taken by the bushing, Since the bushing is larger, it is
stronger to let the fitting rotate about the bushing. That is the way Van
and many others design pivots so they can use a bolt that is small for
lightness but doesn't have the critical strength necessary.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears@searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
>
>
> > You're gonna want to replace that bolt you sanded ASAP! You most likely
> > removed the cad plating, and the bolt can now rust. The intent is not
for
> > the bushing to rotate around the bolt -- rather the bellcrank rotates
> around
> > the bushing. To make this perfectly clear...the bolt & bushing should
> > remain STATIONARY with respect to the plane and each other. This is the
> > case for aileron bellcranks, control stick pivots, etc.
> >
> > (Note: I'm speaking in terms of RV-7 and RV-8 wings only...I can't speak
> for
> > the design on other models, but I presume they're similar.)
>
> Dan is correct; but, my controls don't work that way. When I was building
> Scooter, I approached my local A&Ps with IAs and discussed how the
assembly
> is to be built. I could build it as Dan stated; or, I could build it
making
> the bushing stationary and let it rotate about the bolt. The latter was
the
> preferred method, by general concensus amongst us. The reason being is to
> let the bolt wear out before the assembly. It's easier to replace the
bolt
> than it is to replace the weldment, if that still exists when the weldment
> wears out. Granted, we could be talking about years from now; but, I
still
> liked the idea of replacing a bolt rather than the assembly. I installed
my
> bushing with a very tight fit and let the bolt rotate within it. I also
> changed out the bolts so that I could use castellated nuts and cotter
pins.
> I also installed washers at each end of the bushing for friction relief.
So
> far, it's working quite well. I keep the bolt lubed with LPS-2, each
year.
> There's very little friction there; so, the bolt should last well into
this
> century. If not, I'll buy a bushing and bolt instead of an assembly.
Much
> cheaper to fix, that way.
>
> Although I'm not advocating anyone's changing the way they're doing their
> assembly, I just wanted you to know that there is another way to approach
> the problem. I'm sure the cad plating is already gone on my bolts because
> of the rotation. I'm not planning on replacing them anytime soon, though.
> I'm also going to use the same method on my new -7A because it seems like
> the right thing to do for me.
>
> Now, to the original question. When the rubbing occurs, is the bolt
> tightened down or loose? I'm betting the bolts are straight. You could
do
> a roll test on a very flat surface and watch for light under them as you
> roll them. A bent bolt will have light variances under them as they are
> rolled. Is it possible that when you tighten down the bolts that you may
be
> bending the bushing ever so slightly? I can remember vaguely that mine
did
> that until I changed my approach to the problem. I can't swear to that,
> though. It was a very long time ago.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
> RV-7A #70317 (Finishing the tail. Wings awaitin')
> EAA Technical Counselor
> EAA Flight Advisor
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Need help with brake lines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer@improvementteam.com>
Jason,
The plans call for soft aluminum tubing to the brakes from the firewall area
You may be able to just replace a small section near and connecting to the
brake caliper to eliminate the heat.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Need help with brake lines
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
I have an RV-6 and I have had numerous problems with my brake lines.
The builder used what looks like plastic (poly) brake lines down the
gear leg fairing to the caliper. A couple times the caliper heated up
and melted the plastic tube at the fitting and I lost all my fluid.
Yesterday I did a fast no flap landing and my right brake pedal was
very stiff after landing (probably due to the brake fluid being VERY
hot) once stopped I mashed the brake and POP. At the very top of the
gear leg fairing I have a pin hole in the plastic which leaked the
fluid. I am getting pretty good at landing on a 2000 foot strip with no
brakes but I do not think this is a good thing to brag about.
Obviously I have to get rid of the plastic hose on both sides my
questions are:
1. What type of hose to use?
2. I have woods stiffeners on my gear legs wrapped in glass, do I need
to remove this to install the brake line?
3. Do I need to order pre-made hoses or can I make my own?
4. Is aluminum tubbing better that steel braided? or is there something
better?
5. my brake lines basically are in the middle of the wood stiffeners.
Any help would be great...
Thanks,
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
www.highland-parks.com/n242ds
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Jim and Others
Van's bellcrank designs, at least in the RV-9/9A, is that the bushing is
slightly longer than the bellcrank tube so that the bellcrank rotates about
the captured bushing. By design, the bolt is more than adequate to take out
any induced shear loads. The only contribution that the bushing could make
against shear loads would be slight from the clamping friction at each end
supplied by the bolt pressure. The bushing is the sacrificial material in
the rotating joint. The wear rate on the OD of the bushing will be less than
it would be on the ID due to the larger surface area and lower unit surface
pressures involved. This design allows for easy bushing replacement and
precludes bolt rotation that could enlarge holes in the support brackets.
Hope this adds a little clarity to the situation.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Sears" <sears@searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: WD-421 Aileron Bellcrank bushing
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
>
>
> > Let me take a different approach. When the bushing rotates on the bolt,
> the
> > bolt assumes all the loadings. When the bushing does not rotate on the
> bolt,
> > all loadings are taken by the bushing, Since the bushing is larger, it
is
> > stronger to let the fitting rotate about the bushing. That is the way
Van
> > and many others design pivots so they can use a bolt that is small for
> > lightness but doesn't have the critical strength necessary.
>
> That's a good observation; but, it seems to me that the loads, which
haven't
> been very heavy in my RV, would be in shear. If that's the case, wouldn't
> the shear loads be carried by the bolt, no matter how big or small it is
and
> which of the two methods is used? I'm no engineer; so, I can't swear to
it.
> I just know the method I used was the preferred method when I talked with
my
> IA buddies. It made sense then and still does. I think we talked about
> shear, as well. It's been a long while ago, though. With the bolt
rotating
> in the bushing, one might want to check the bolt for wear more often than
> when the assembly is rotating around the bushing. I don't think it
rotates
> all that much, though. Unless one is beating the heck out of the end
points
> of the stick throws, there is very little force on those bolts. Just how
> much force is required when one is flying by barely touching the stick
with
> the fingertips? Even when the loads are heavier in the pattern, they
> aren't very much because we trim that out. Under aerobatic loads, one
might
> see things load up a bit. Since I'm a big chicken, I've not experienced
> those loads in Scooter. :-)
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
>
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Avionics shop in New England? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Garrett, Randy L (C4S)" <Randy.L.Garrett@gdc4s.com>
It's time for me to get my biennial transponder check.
Is there an avionics shop in the Boston / Providence area that anyone particularly
recommends?
Thanks, Randy
RV-6A
380 hours
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Pressure Trivia (was carrying pressurized cylinders) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sebastian Trost <sebastian.trost@sbcglobal.net>
I don't know what airliner you were flying, but the Boeing 737 baggage
compartment is pressurized, as I think all other jets are. You do get to
8000' cabin altitude, which I have had pop open sunscreen tubes, but you get
to the same altitude sitting in the cabin. That's why passengers with a
head cold have ear pain on descent...
Sebastian Trost
RV-7A QB Tipup
Just got finish kit
Working on rollover bar
Message 20
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| Subject: | Need help with brake lines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Jason,
On all the current aircraft the brake lines from the fuselage to the brake
calipers are aluminum. You may be able to snake the alum line through as
you pull the poly line out from your gear legs.
Mike Robertson
>From: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Need help with brake lines
>Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2004 10:34:30 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
>I have an RV-6 and I have had numerous problems with my brake lines.
>The builder used what looks like plastic (poly) brake lines down the
>gear leg fairing to the caliper. A couple times the caliper heated up
>and melted the plastic tube at the fitting and I lost all my fluid.
>Yesterday I did a fast no flap landing and my right brake pedal was
>very stiff after landing (probably due to the brake fluid being VERY
>hot) once stopped I mashed the brake and POP. At the very top of the
>gear leg fairing I have a pin hole in the plastic which leaked the
>fluid. I am getting pretty good at landing on a 2000 foot strip with no
>brakes but I do not think this is a good thing to brag about.
>
>Obviously I have to get rid of the plastic hose on both sides my
>questions are:
>
>1. What type of hose to use?
>2. I have woods stiffeners on my gear legs wrapped in glass, do I need
>to remove this to install the brake line?
>3. Do I need to order pre-made hoses or can I make my own?
>4. Is aluminum tubbing better that steel braided? or is there something
>better?
>5. my brake lines basically are in the middle of the wood stiffeners.
>
>Any help would be great...
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jason Sneed
>Commercial Lending Officer
>First National Bank and Trust
>www.highland-parks.com/n242ds
>
>
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
Message 21
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| Subject: | Camping in Vintage Camping in Oshkosh |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
This is a heads up for all who would like to continue camping in the
ORIGINAL showplane camping area by vintage planes.
Antique/classic/vintage has informed us that as a general rule only
vintage airplanes can camp in that area. homebuilds will have to go to
the *NEW* homebuild area, west of the RV parking area.
only *pre-approved* non-vintage airplanes will be allowed. At least that
is what we, the 'north-point crew' have een told.
Ya'all read my buddy Jeff's article in the RVator on signs, signals,
etc. If not, please do. If you do NOT have a readable sign, and sticky
notes in pencil behind the colored canopy do not count as a sign, count
on being stopped at about *every* intersection.
For those who are 'old timers' and have parked in the rv area before,
know that the taxiway leading up to the RV area and now the new
homebuilt/showplane camping is only a ONE_WAY taxiway.
This means that if traffic is en-route on the taxi way we have to not
only hold you but also *STAGE* you at the entry to the warbird area.
This to prevent a mexican stand-off at the intersection with Papa 1.
Read about the EAA PECKING ORDER in the RVator.
Please, please, when we direct you in the throat of the warbird area by
the trimoter, turn into the throat and make a 180 degree turn so you
face south again. Unless you fly in nigerian warbird RV6 colors you
won't be welcome in warbirds. Hopefully we will be able to accomoate you
as soon as possible.
Gert
p.s.
Did I mention yet to bring yer 8x11 sign..facing the orange vests...the
one in the NOTAMs....For several years now, the FAA folks have joked
with us about starting NOTAM checks, let's hope it stays a joke. Last
year one of them stood at north point doing an informal count of lack of
signs.....he left shaking his head in despair....I have seen the feds
follow at least 2 airplanes to their parking spots for gross neglect of
following hand signals, almost running over an orange vest in each
instance did not help their course..., neither airplane was an RV of
course, but....have a copy in the airplane.....ya never know...
--
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Pressure Trivia (was carrying pressurized cylinders) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
Sebastian:
> I don't know what airliner you were flying, but the Boeing 737 baggage
> compartment is pressurized, as I think all other jets are.
It was a Canadair CT-114 trainer, and the baggage compartment (a glovebox-sized
thing in the wing root) was definitely not pressurized.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC, Canada
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 23
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| Subject: | Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Fellow listers,
I'm thinking about mounting a battery charger connector on my firewall so that
I can keep my battery charged as my AM/FM radio draws some current to keep the
stations/clock....
I'm trying to determine what area on the firewall can be reached through the oil
filler door so I can mount this thing before I close the forward top skin and
work on my canopy
Does anyone have a general idea of what can be reached? I'm hoping for an area
above and to the right/left of where Van's firewall forward instructions tell
you to put the brake fluid reservior.
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB - N822AR on the gear - engine's real soon
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Need help with brake lines |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
Go to Pegasus racing, they have some an4 stainless steel braided hose and
fittings. Very easy to assemble and very flexible. E-mail me offline if you
can't find the part numbers and I'll get the catalog from the hanger this
weekend.
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage complete, working on Tailcone
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>Fellow listers,
>
>I'm thinking about mounting a battery charger connector on my firewall so that
I can keep my battery charged as my AM/FM radio draws some current to keep the
stations/clock....
>
>I'm trying to determine what area on the firewall can be reached through the oil
filler door so I can mount this thing before I close the forward top skin and
work on my canopy
>
>Does anyone have a general idea of what can be reached? I'm hoping for an area
above and to the right/left of where Van's firewall forward instructions tell
you to put the brake fluid reservior.
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>RV6AQB - N822AR on the gear - engine's real soon
>
Great idea Ralph, but instead of mounting it to the firewall, why not
attach a pigtail to the engine mount with a ty-rap or some other type of
clip? That way it would be easily accessible and the open oil door
would vent the heat after a flight. Radio Shack has some nice molex
polarized 2-pin connectors that are just made to order for this job.
Just use the molex crimping tool.
Linn
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
A 2-prong extension cord works well in this application too. The female
end gets cut off and attached to the battery, and tie-wrapped to the
mount. The male end can be used to connect to the charger with whatever
kind of connector is called for. The male end/ charger adapter is part
of my emergency tool kit.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>Great idea Ralph, but instead of mounting it to the firewall, why not
>attach a pigtail to the engine mount with a ty-rap or some other type of
>clip? That way it would be easily accessible and the open oil door
>would vent the heat after a flight. Radio Shack has some nice molex
>polarized 2-pin connectors that are just made to order for this job.
>Just use the molex crimping tool.
>Linn
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
Ralph,
I wanted to be able to do the same, but came up with a different way to
do than putting it on the firewall.
I have a 12V receptacle in the cockpit that's hooked straight to the E
bus, which comes straight off the battery. I made an adapter from the
male 12V plug for the battery tender. Works great to keep the
battery topped off.
YMMV,
Laird RV-6 950 hrs
SoCal
On Jul 22, 2004, at 6:54 PM, linn walters wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
>> <recapen@earthlink.net>
>>
>> Fellow listers,
>>
>> I'm thinking about mounting a battery charger connector on my
>> firewall so that I can keep my battery charged as my AM/FM radio
>> draws some current to keep the stations/clock....
>>
>> I'm trying to determine what area on the firewall can be reached
>> through the oil filler door so I can mount this thing before I close
>> the forward top skin and work on my canopy
>>
>> Does anyone have a general idea of what can be reached? I'm hoping
>> for an area above and to the right/left of where Van's firewall
>> forward instructions tell you to put the brake fluid reservior.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ralph Capen
>> RV6AQB - N822AR on the gear - engine's real soon
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
Ralph: On my RV-6A I installed a external power receptacle system inside
the oil door. What I did was at my airplane junkyard I removed the whole
external power system from a piper Cherokee. Inside the door aft on the
engine mount V I mounted the Receptacle Socket and on the opposite side of
the firewall I mounted the relay to control the power. And the power feeds
through the firewall to the battery bus. Inside the oil door I have a
switch to control the external power Relay. I also carry with my tools a
jumper cord to start the engine if the battery might be dead. I think
Electric Bob has an schematic idea of how to do this, Works fine.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N602RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> I'm thinking about mounting a battery charger connector on my firewall so
that I can keep my battery charged as my AM/FM radio draws some current to
keep the stations/clock....
>
> I'm trying to determine what area on the firewall can be reached through
the oil filler door so I can mount this thing before I close the forward top
skin and work on my canopy
>
> Does anyone have a general idea of what can be reached? I'm hoping for an
area above and to the right/left of where Van's firewall forward
instructions tell you to put the brake fluid reservior.
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
> RV6AQB - N822AR on the gear - engine's real soon
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Tach & Tune and Bank for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
I have in excellent condition a used Mitchell tach with 27" cable and a
Bendix Turn and Bank that hasn't been used since I got this -4. I am
getting rid of them because my tach drive seal is leaking and I don't want
to tear the engine apart to fix it so I went with electric. I don't want to
put on a vac. pump so the T & B has got to go.
I can email pictures.
Jim
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Firewall access through oil filler door |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 7/22/2004 7:46:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
owens@aerovironment.com writes:
I have a 12V receptacle in the cockpit that's hooked straight to the E
bus, which comes straight off the battery. I made an adapter from the
male 12V plug for the battery tender. Works great to keep the
battery topped off.
=====================================
Also good for charging the cell phone overnight while airplane camping.
Always connect your 12V receptacle (lighter socket) thru a circuit breaker (or
fuse) directly to the battery bus and it can do double duty unattended.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
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