Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:23 AM - Re: Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh!!! (Mxbruegger@aol.com)
2. 08:08 AM - Re: CHTs, EGTs, and Oil Temp (Matt Jurotich)
3. 08:50 AM - NPT question (Mickey Coggins)
4. 09:01 AM - Candy thermometer? (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
5. 09:02 AM - Re: NPT question (Vanremog@aol.com)
6. 09:22 AM - Re: NPT question (John Ammeter)
7. 09:26 AM - Re: NPT question (Richard E. Tasker)
8. 09:50 AM - Re: NPT question (Mickey Coggins)
9. 10:06 AM - Re: Counter Balance Weights (BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks))
10. 10:15 AM - Brake fluid leak (Jim & Bev Cone)
11. 10:30 AM - Fuel Filter (Jerry Isler)
12. 12:19 PM - Alternate Oil Cooler Location/Setup (Dan Checkoway)
13. 01:22 PM - Re: Brake fluid leak (J. R. Dial)
14. 02:24 PM - Re: NPT question (Charlie Kuss)
15. 02:48 PM - [ Doug Gray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
16. 04:47 PM - Transponder testing (Ralph E. Capen)
17. 06:21 PM - Why an NPT tap/die? (Louis Willig)
18. 07:16 PM - Re: Transponder testing (William Gill)
19. 08:32 PM - Re: Transponder testing (Cammie Patch)
20. 11:45 PM - Re: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale (Albert Gardner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mxbruegger@aol.com
Hi all, I too bought the CD but never use it because my connection speed is
fantastic. I only got it because I think Dan deserves something in return for
the endless information on his site. This also takes him endless hours to
continue to put together just so all of us waiting for an update have something
new to read and learn. I think that anyone who has gained anything at all
from Dan's site should drop the small chunk of pizza change and show your
thanks. (............. okay, maybe some beer change in there as well :)........).
Anyway, nothing beats a permanent copy if you ask me! And Dan, keep writing
as we all love the whole thing as it develops now into ownership trials and
tribulations of your RV7.
Mike....................'
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: CHTs, EGTs, and Oil Temp |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov>
Might want to try the archives. I seem to remember a story about casting
flash causing very high temps on some cylinders.
Matthew M. Jurotich
NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center
JWST ISIM Systems Engineer
m/c : 443
e-mail mailto: mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov
phone : 301-286-5919
fax : 301-286-7021
JWST
URL:
<http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov>http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2004-07-23.html
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
How does one tap an NPT (American Standard Taper Pipe thread),
since it is tapered? Anyone know of a good place to pick up
a tap and die kit with all the "common" sizes we use on an RV?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 4
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| Subject: | Candy thermometer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Doug,
Aren't you assuming then, that the candy thermometer is correct? These things
are not lab quality instruments I think... Would it work to boil some water
at 212 deg. (adjusted for local elevation) and calibrate against that? I'm sure
some scientists on this board would have thoughts on this. JM .02...
Jerry Cochran
(BTW, I calibrated my CHT sensors against a candy thermometer
at about 400 degrees and they were easily within 5 degrees of each
other.)
Thanks in advance.
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: NPT question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 7/24/2004 8:51:54 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
mick-matronics@rv8.ch writes:
How does one tap an NPT (American Standard Taper Pipe thread),
since it is tapered? Anyone know of a good place to pick up
a tap and die kit with all the "common" sizes we use on an RV?
=====================================
I never needed any building my 6A, but these are readily available many
places. I know McMaster-Carr, Olander and MSC would have them. You probably
need only two sizes, 1/8" and 1/4".
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: NPT question |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter <jammeter@comcast.net>
On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 17:49:50 +0200, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>Hi,
>
>How does one tap an NPT (American Standard Taper Pipe thread),
>since it is tapered? Anyone know of a good place to pick up
>a tap and die kit with all the "common" sizes we use on an RV?
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
The NPT thread dies are available at most larger hardware
stores. I built an RV-6 and don't recall ever needing to
tap anything, though...
What is it that you're wanting to tap??
John
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: NPT question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
The 1/8 and 1/4 are probably available right in you local hardware
store. Also, I know Home Depot carries them.
That said, you probably don't really need them.
Dick Tasker, RV9A # 90573
Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>
>In a message dated 7/24/2004 8:51:54 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
>mick-matronics@rv8.ch writes:
>
>How does one tap an NPT (American Standard Taper Pipe thread),
>since it is tapered? Anyone know of a good place to pick up
>a tap and die kit with all the "common" sizes we use on an RV?
>
>
>=====================================
>
>I never needed any building my 6A, but these are readily available many
>places. I know McMaster-Carr, Olander and MSC would have them. You probably
>need only two sizes, 1/8" and 1/4".
>
>GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: NPT question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
My local HW stores only have metric stuff, since I
live in Switzerland. I was back in the US a week
or so ago, but I had not yet stripped out the
NPT fitting on the ACS A-600 brake reservoirs
when I was there. I think I'll just buy a
new reservoir, or go back to the Van's method.
Probably the easiest.
Best regards,
Mickey
>The NPT thread dies are available at most larger hardware
>stores. I built an RV-6 and don't recall ever needing to
>tap anything, though...
>
>What is it that you're wanting to tap??
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Counter Balance Weights |
--> RV-List message posted by: BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks)
I would suggest that you sand the inside of the fiberglass tips before
you install them. I had to add weight after painting.
1. Drill a 3/8" hole thru the counterbalance rib just aft of the
weight.
2. Hang the elevator from the hinges, wire or string works fine.
3. While holding the elevator level place a small paper cup over the
front of the counterbalance, and fill with lead shot (from shotgun
shells) until the elevator hangs level.
4. Place a short piece of clear 3/8" vinyl tube into the 3/8" hole, and
stick a funnel into the end of it.
5. Temporarily tape the elevator to the wire in a trailing edge up
position so that the lead shot will fall down to the front of the
counter balance.
6. Mix some epoxy resin and stir into your cup of lead shot.
7. Pour the resin/shot into the counter balance. You'll need a piece of
coat hangar wire or something to help shove it in.
8. Cap the hole with a 3/8" stainless snap plug (I found mine at Home
Depot).
9. Before the resin has time to cure, remove the tape holding the
trailing edge up. With the added weight of the resin the counterbalance
should hang slightly low. Tilt the nose up briefly so that the
resin/shot mixture slides aft until the elevator hang level. If you go
too far just lift the trailing edge to slide the shot forward.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Brake fluid leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim & Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
I just put brake fluid in my RV-7A and even though I tightened the fittings as
tight as I could and still have them point in the right direction, they both leak.
They will not make another turn tighter. Does anyone on the list have a
suggestion to stop the leaks?
Jim Cone
3-peat Offender
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
Where is the best place to install a fuel filter? Here are the options:
1) Between the tanks and the fuel selector valve. This would require 2
filters but would provide some back up if one clogged, assuming you had fuel
in the non-clogged tank.
2) Between the fuel selector and the electric fuel pump. Only one filter,
but not clog tolerant.
3) Downstream of the electric fuel pump. Still only one filter.
What kind of filter would you use? I am leaning toward one with AN flaired
fittings on both ends and a sintered bronze filter element of about 35
microns. Would a paper element be better? How about the see thru glass tube
type?
I don't intend to use the gasculator I purchased. There just isn't a decent
place to put it on an RV4.
Jerry Isler
RV4 N455J
Donalsonville,Ga
Message 12
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| Subject: | Alternate Oil Cooler Location/Setup |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I've been farting around with my oil cooler setup on my RV-7. I recently
beefed up the installation behind cylinder #4, braced the oil cooler better,
and I have very high confidence in this setup for this particular plane &
engine & conditions. It works great.
But I was looking back through some old photos I took of my Mooney 201
several years ago. I bought the plane with a run-out engine (1962 hours
TTAF and TTE, good compression but burning oil) with the intent to replace
the engine right away. I got a Lycoming factory overhauled engine, and I
took some photos of the r&r process that my shop did at the time (before I
had a shadow of a clue).
Anyway, a couple of photos caught my eye this morning as I looked through
'em. On the '77 Mooney 201, the oil cooler attaches to a plenum/duct that
attaches to the firewall, and the duct butts up against the back of the #4
baffles with what looks like a silicone seal:
http://images.rvproject.com/m20j/images/engine/firewall.jpg
The baffles have a built-in duct of sorts that dumps into the oil cooler
plenum/duct:
http://images.rvproject.com/m20j/images/engine/baffle.jpg
The duct in the baffles also serves to have one continuous wall along the
back of the engine to simplify the baffle seals.
I figured this might be of interest to some folks out there who are
contemplating alternative oil cooler setups. I don't know if I recommend
this setup per se, since I usually had pretty hot oil temps in the summer
and had to at least partially open the cowl flaps to keep it in check a lot
of the time. But I think that may be partly due to the crappy oil cooler
that was being used. Who knows. I'm not endorsing this setup, just figured
somebody out there might find interest in it. Food for thought, at least.
On my current setup with the oil cooler right behind #4, things are workin'
great.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (160 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Brake fluid leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Buy a tube of Leak Lock at and air conditioning supply house and
your troubles are over. I fought the same problems. The stuff is less
than $3.00 and I will assure it works.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim & Bev Cone
Subject: RV-List: Brake fluid leak
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim & Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
I just put brake fluid in my RV-7A and even though I tightened the
fittings as tight as I could and still have them point in the right
direction, they both leak. They will not make another turn tighter.
Does anyone on the list have a suggestion to stop the leaks?
Jim Cone
3-peat Offender
==
==
==
==
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: NPT question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Mickey
Generally, I run the tap about 3/4 of it's length into the hole. This
will allow about 4 to 5 threads of whatever AN fitting you are screwing in.
Some machinist books suggest 1/2 way in, but I find that this only allows
2-3 threads of the fitting to screw in. That's not enough in my book.
Charlie Kuss
PS Remember, you can always tap it deeper, but you can't "untap" it.
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>Hi,
>
>How does one tap an NPT (American Standard Taper Pipe thread),
>since it is tapered? Anyone know of a good place to pick up
>a tap and die kit with all the "common" sizes we use on an RV?
>
>Thanks,
>Mickey
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | [ Doug Gray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.auau>
Subject: Plenum - Very good example & worth a look.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dgra1233@bigpond.net.au.07.24.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Transponder testing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Fellow listers,
Is there any way to check your transponder on the ground? I had a conversation
with the controller at my airport today and he told me that I needed to be airborne....meanwhile,
this little birdie from flight school reminds me that I was
always instructed to leave my transponder in the 'Stand-By' mode till I took
the active so it wouldn't mess up the controllers.
Considering that I was a hundred yards away, I thought that he could have told
me to hit the ident button and be done with it...we have radar on the field too
but that shouldn't matter.
Am I nutso? Does one of us not really know how stuff works? I'll be more than
happy to take an education from this list.....
Thanks
Message 17
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| Subject: | Why an NPT tap/die? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
Hi guys.
Its funny how often a coincidental situation arises on this list. No one
can think of why Mickey Coggins might need an NPT tap/die. But I can.
I have had a mystery leak in my RV-4 (IO-360, CS prop) for three years. No
one could find the source. I always had drips on the right side of my
engine, towards the front and below the cooling air intake ramp. The
alternator always had oil on it as did the crankcase and front cylinder
base. Three mechanics and the builder tried everything from replacing the
crankshaft nose seal to replacing the oil return line on the cylinder, to
tightening the cylinder base nuts. Since the upper front of the engine was
dry, we could rule out the upper half from our search. Right?
WRONG, WRONG, WRONG.
Last week, I was in a Sherlock Holmes mode and decided to solve this
problem or die trying. Here's what happened:
With a magnifying glass, I spent 1/2 hour just looking at every nook and
cranny on the front right of the engine. Starting from the bottom. When I
got above the level of the air intake ramp, I kept on looking even though
the engine is always dry and clean in this zone. But ,then, I found a
droplet of oil.
The C/S prop oil line that runs from the prop governor to the prop runs
below the right hand cylinders and takes a turn vertically at the front of
crankcase. It runs up through a hole cut out of the air ramp, and connects
to the nose of the engine via a bronze elbow. The elbow has a standard
aircraft flare on the end that points down to the oil line, and it screws
into the crankcase with a NPT pipe thread. There is absolutely NO
misalignment permitted between the S/S oil line and the elbow. The Elbow
must be dead nuts vertical, while at the same time be tight enough to seal.
The area where the elbow screws into the engine is hidden by the oil line
and is out of view and out of touch. This is where I found a droplet of oil.
I loosened the flare connection to the elbow and found the elbow absolutely
loose to the touch. A sealant was used at the time the engine was built up.
This was probably done because your could not give an additional 360 degree
turn to the elbow without something snapping or threads stripping. This
sealant lost its capacity to make a good seal after the first 100 hrs. of
operation. At high RPMs the oil must have been leaking at a moderate rate,
but the huge volume of air entering the intake pushed this oil down the
outside of the oil line and through the hole in the air ramp to then
dispersed all over the lower half of the engine. This explains everything I
have found over the past few years. But how do I fix this. Well, I could
have purchased a few more elbows and find the one that might fit perfectly.
OR, I could chase the pipe threads a little bit at a time until the fitting
aligned and tight concurrently.
I guess I'm surprised that so many people responded similarly to G.V. But
then, I'm surprised that so many mechanics didn't find my oil leak problem.
Did I do the wrong thing by chasing the NPT threads to attain alignment?
Louis
Message 18
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| Subject: | Transponder testing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
At a recent CFI refresher clinic, the manager of the Kansas City ARTCC
said that putting the transponder on standby while on the ground was no
longer necessary. He explained that the new terminal radars were immune
to ground transmissions.
Hope this helps.
Bill Gill
Kansas City, MO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Subject: RV-List: Transponder testing
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Fellow listers,
Is there any way to check your transponder on the ground? I had a
conversation with the controller at my airport today and he told me that
I needed to be airborne....meanwhile, this little birdie from flight
school reminds me that I was always instructed to leave my transponder
in the 'Stand-By' mode till I took the active so it wouldn't mess up the
controllers.
Considering that I was a hundred yards away, I thought that he could
have told me to hit the ident button and be done with it...we have radar
on the field too but that shouldn't matter.
Am I nutso? Does one of us not really know how stuff works? I'll be
more than happy to take an education from this list.....
Thanks
==
==
==
==
Message 19
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| Subject: | Transponder testing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cammie Patch" <cammie@sunvalley.net>
Here in Boise ATC has a brand new radar. It's so good, it picks up all
transponders on the surface of the airport, which really clutters up the
screen for the controllers. In addition, I've been flying around in a Cirrus
a lot lately, and it's annoying to here "traffic, traffic" in my ear while
in the pattern, just because someone is taxiing around with their
transponder on ALT. I'm sure everyone else with some sort of traffic alert
system gets the same results.
I teach my students to activate the transponder only when cleared for
takeoff.
Cammie
cfii
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
At a recent CFI refresher clinic, the manager of the Kansas City ARTCC
said that putting the transponder on standby while on the ground was no
longer necessary. He explained that the new terminal radars were immune
to ground transmissions.
Fellow listers,
Is there any way to check your transponder on the ground? I had a
conversation with the controller at my airport today and he told me that
I needed to be airborne....meanwhile, this little birdie from flight
school reminds me that I was always instructed to leave my transponder
in the 'Stand-By' mode till I took the active so it wouldn't mess up the
controllers.
Considering that I was a hundred yards away, I thought that he could
have told me to hit the ident button and be done with it...we have radar
on the field too but that shouldn't matter.
Am I nutso? Does one of us not really know how stuff works? I'll be
more than happy to take an education from this list.....
Thanks
==
==
==
==
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
You are the only bidder on this oil cooler, do you still want it for $100?
I'll charge only the exact amount that UPS charges me to ship if you do.
Give me an address and I'll get it in the box and gone.
Albert
----- Original Message -----
From: "sportpilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale
> --> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
>
> I would like to bid on that item , 100.00 when I get back from cancun
> thursday ?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
> To: <rv9-list@matronics.com>; <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner"
<spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
> >
> > I have a yellow tagged Stewart Warner 10 coil oil cooler 10610A that I
> > bought from Pacific Oil Cooler but never used because it wouldn't fit on
> the
> > rear baffle without a lot more work than I wanted to do. I'll sell this
> for
> > the best offer.
> > Albert Gardner
> > RV-9A 872RV
> > Yuma, AZ
> >
> >
>
>
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