---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 07/24/04: 20 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:23 AM - Re: Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh!!! (Mxbruegger@aol.com) 2. 08:08 AM - Re: CHTs, EGTs, and Oil Temp (Matt Jurotich) 3. 08:50 AM - NPT question (Mickey Coggins) 4. 09:01 AM - Candy thermometer? (Jerry2DT@aol.com) 5. 09:02 AM - Re: NPT question (Vanremog@aol.com) 6. 09:22 AM - Re: NPT question (John Ammeter) 7. 09:26 AM - Re: NPT question (Richard E. Tasker) 8. 09:50 AM - Re: NPT question (Mickey Coggins) 9. 10:06 AM - Re: Counter Balance Weights (BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks)) 10. 10:15 AM - Brake fluid leak (Jim & Bev Cone) 11. 10:30 AM - Fuel Filter (Jerry Isler) 12. 12:19 PM - Alternate Oil Cooler Location/Setup (Dan Checkoway) 13. 01:22 PM - Re: Brake fluid leak (J. R. Dial) 14. 02:24 PM - Re: NPT question (Charlie Kuss) 15. 02:48 PM - [ Doug Gray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares) 16. 04:47 PM - Transponder testing (Ralph E. Capen) 17. 06:21 PM - Why an NPT tap/die? (Louis Willig) 18. 07:16 PM - Re: Transponder testing (William Gill) 19. 08:32 PM - Re: Transponder testing (Cammie Patch) 20. 11:45 PM - Re: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale (Albert Gardner) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:23:48 AM PST US From: Mxbruegger@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Re: Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh!!! --> RV-List message posted by: Mxbruegger@aol.com Hi all, I too bought the CD but never use it because my connection speed is fantastic. I only got it because I think Dan deserves something in return for the endless information on his site. This also takes him endless hours to continue to put together just so all of us waiting for an update have something new to read and learn. I think that anyone who has gained anything at all from Dan's site should drop the small chunk of pizza change and show your thanks. (............. okay, maybe some beer change in there as well :)........). Anyway, nothing beats a permanent copy if you ask me! And Dan, keep writing as we all love the whole thing as it develops now into ownership trials and tribulations of your RV7. Mike....................' ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 08:08:01 AM PST US From: Matt Jurotich Subject: Re: RV-List: CHTs, EGTs, and Oil Temp --> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich Might want to try the archives. I seem to remember a story about casting flash causing very high temps on some cylinders. Matthew M. Jurotich NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center JWST ISIM Systems Engineer m/c : 443 e-mail mailto: mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov phone : 301-286-5919 fax : 301-286-7021 JWST URL: http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2004-07-23.html ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 08:50:55 AM PST US From: Mickey Coggins Subject: RV-List: NPT question --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins Hi, How does one tap an NPT (American Standard Taper Pipe thread), since it is tapered? Anyone know of a good place to pick up a tap and die kit with all the "common" sizes we use on an RV? Thanks, Mickey -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 09:01:34 AM PST US From: Jerry2DT@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Candy thermometer? --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com Doug, Aren't you assuming then, that the candy thermometer is correct? These things are not lab quality instruments I think... Would it work to boil some water at 212 deg. (adjusted for local elevation) and calibrate against that? I'm sure some scientists on this board would have thoughts on this. JM .02... Jerry Cochran (BTW, I calibrated my CHT sensors against a candy thermometer at about 400 degrees and they were easily within 5 degrees of each other.) Thanks in advance. Doug Medema RV-6A N276DM ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 09:02:54 AM PST US From: Vanremog@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: NPT question --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com In a message dated 7/24/2004 8:51:54 AM Pacific Daylight Time, mick-matronics@rv8.ch writes: How does one tap an NPT (American Standard Taper Pipe thread), since it is tapered? Anyone know of a good place to pick up a tap and die kit with all the "common" sizes we use on an RV? ===================================== I never needed any building my 6A, but these are readily available many places. I know McMaster-Carr, Olander and MSC would have them. You probably need only two sizes, 1/8" and 1/4". GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs) ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 09:22:26 AM PST US From: John Ammeter Subject: Re: RV-List: NPT question --> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter On Sat, 24 Jul 2004 17:49:50 +0200, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins > >Hi, > >How does one tap an NPT (American Standard Taper Pipe thread), >since it is tapered? Anyone know of a good place to pick up >a tap and die kit with all the "common" sizes we use on an RV? > >Thanks, >Mickey The NPT thread dies are available at most larger hardware stores. I built an RV-6 and don't recall ever needing to tap anything, though... What is it that you're wanting to tap?? John ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:26:19 AM PST US From: "Richard E. Tasker" Subject: Re: RV-List: NPT question --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" The 1/8 and 1/4 are probably available right in you local hardware store. Also, I know Home Depot carries them. That said, you probably don't really need them. Dick Tasker, RV9A # 90573 Vanremog@aol.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com > > >In a message dated 7/24/2004 8:51:54 AM Pacific Daylight Time, >mick-matronics@rv8.ch writes: > >How does one tap an NPT (American Standard Taper Pipe thread), >since it is tapered? Anyone know of a good place to pick up >a tap and die kit with all the "common" sizes we use on an RV? > > >===================================== > >I never needed any building my 6A, but these are readily available many >places. I know McMaster-Carr, Olander and MSC would have them. You probably >need only two sizes, 1/8" and 1/4". > >GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs) > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:50:09 AM PST US From: Mickey Coggins Subject: Re: RV-List: NPT question --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins Hi, My local HW stores only have metric stuff, since I live in Switzerland. I was back in the US a week or so ago, but I had not yet stripped out the NPT fitting on the ACS A-600 brake reservoirs when I was there. I think I'll just buy a new reservoir, or go back to the Van's method. Probably the easiest. Best regards, Mickey >The NPT thread dies are available at most larger hardware >stores. I built an RV-6 and don't recall ever needing to >tap anything, though... > >What is it that you're wanting to tap?? -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 10:06:36 AM PST US From: BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks) Subject: Re: RV-List: Counter Balance Weights --> RV-List message posted by: BrooksRV6@webtv.net (Chris Brooks) I would suggest that you sand the inside of the fiberglass tips before you install them. I had to add weight after painting. 1. Drill a 3/8" hole thru the counterbalance rib just aft of the weight. 2. Hang the elevator from the hinges, wire or string works fine. 3. While holding the elevator level place a small paper cup over the front of the counterbalance, and fill with lead shot (from shotgun shells) until the elevator hangs level. 4. Place a short piece of clear 3/8" vinyl tube into the 3/8" hole, and stick a funnel into the end of it. 5. Temporarily tape the elevator to the wire in a trailing edge up position so that the lead shot will fall down to the front of the counter balance. 6. Mix some epoxy resin and stir into your cup of lead shot. 7. Pour the resin/shot into the counter balance. You'll need a piece of coat hangar wire or something to help shove it in. 8. Cap the hole with a 3/8" stainless snap plug (I found mine at Home Depot). 9. Before the resin has time to cure, remove the tape holding the trailing edge up. With the added weight of the resin the counterbalance should hang slightly low. Tilt the nose up briefly so that the resin/shot mixture slides aft until the elevator hang level. If you go too far just lift the trailing edge to slide the shot forward. ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 10:15:46 AM PST US From: "Jim & Bev Cone" Subject: RV-List: Brake fluid leak --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim & Bev Cone" I just put brake fluid in my RV-7A and even though I tightened the fittings as tight as I could and still have them point in the right direction, they both leak. They will not make another turn tighter. Does anyone on the list have a suggestion to stop the leaks? Jim Cone 3-peat Offender ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 10:30:50 AM PST US From: "Jerry Isler" Subject: RV-List: Fuel Filter --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" Where is the best place to install a fuel filter? Here are the options: 1) Between the tanks and the fuel selector valve. This would require 2 filters but would provide some back up if one clogged, assuming you had fuel in the non-clogged tank. 2) Between the fuel selector and the electric fuel pump. Only one filter, but not clog tolerant. 3) Downstream of the electric fuel pump. Still only one filter. What kind of filter would you use? I am leaning toward one with AN flaired fittings on both ends and a sintered bronze filter element of about 35 microns. Would a paper element be better? How about the see thru glass tube type? I don't intend to use the gasculator I purchased. There just isn't a decent place to put it on an RV4. Jerry Isler RV4 N455J Donalsonville,Ga ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 12:19:09 PM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: Alternate Oil Cooler Location/Setup --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" I've been farting around with my oil cooler setup on my RV-7. I recently beefed up the installation behind cylinder #4, braced the oil cooler better, and I have very high confidence in this setup for this particular plane & engine & conditions. It works great. But I was looking back through some old photos I took of my Mooney 201 several years ago. I bought the plane with a run-out engine (1962 hours TTAF and TTE, good compression but burning oil) with the intent to replace the engine right away. I got a Lycoming factory overhauled engine, and I took some photos of the r&r process that my shop did at the time (before I had a shadow of a clue). Anyway, a couple of photos caught my eye this morning as I looked through 'em. On the '77 Mooney 201, the oil cooler attaches to a plenum/duct that attaches to the firewall, and the duct butts up against the back of the #4 baffles with what looks like a silicone seal: http://images.rvproject.com/m20j/images/engine/firewall.jpg The baffles have a built-in duct of sorts that dumps into the oil cooler plenum/duct: http://images.rvproject.com/m20j/images/engine/baffle.jpg The duct in the baffles also serves to have one continuous wall along the back of the engine to simplify the baffle seals. I figured this might be of interest to some folks out there who are contemplating alternative oil cooler setups. I don't know if I recommend this setup per se, since I usually had pretty hot oil temps in the summer and had to at least partially open the cowl flaps to keep it in check a lot of the time. But I think that may be partly due to the crappy oil cooler that was being used. Who knows. I'm not endorsing this setup, just figured somebody out there might find interest in it. Food for thought, at least. On my current setup with the oil cooler right behind #4, things are workin' great. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (160 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 01:22:11 PM PST US From: "J. R. Dial" Subject: RE: RV-List: Brake fluid leak --> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" Buy a tube of Leak Lock at and air conditioning supply house and your troubles are over. I fought the same problems. The stuff is less than $3.00 and I will assure it works. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim & Bev Cone Subject: RV-List: Brake fluid leak --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim & Bev Cone" I just put brake fluid in my RV-7A and even though I tightened the fittings as tight as I could and still have them point in the right direction, they both leak. They will not make another turn tighter. Does anyone on the list have a suggestion to stop the leaks? Jim Cone 3-peat Offender == == == == ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 02:24:56 PM PST US From: Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: NPT question --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss Mickey Generally, I run the tap about 3/4 of it's length into the hole. This will allow about 4 to 5 threads of whatever AN fitting you are screwing in. Some machinist books suggest 1/2 way in, but I find that this only allows 2-3 threads of the fitting to screw in. That's not enough in my book. Charlie Kuss PS Remember, you can always tap it deeper, but you can't "untap" it. >--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins > >Hi, > >How does one tap an NPT (American Standard Taper Pipe thread), >since it is tapered? Anyone know of a good place to pick up >a tap and die kit with all the "common" sizes we use on an RV? > >Thanks, >Mickey > >-- >Mickey Coggins >http://www.rv8.ch/ >#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 02:48:56 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: [ Doug Gray ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! From: Email List Photo Shares --> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Doug Gray Subject: Plenum - Very good example & worth a look. http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dgra1233@bigpond.net.au.07.24.2004/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures@matronics.com ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 04:47:59 PM PST US From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: RV-List: Transponder testing --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" Fellow listers, Is there any way to check your transponder on the ground? I had a conversation with the controller at my airport today and he told me that I needed to be airborne....meanwhile, this little birdie from flight school reminds me that I was always instructed to leave my transponder in the 'Stand-By' mode till I took the active so it wouldn't mess up the controllers. Considering that I was a hundred yards away, I thought that he could have told me to hit the ident button and be done with it...we have radar on the field too but that shouldn't matter. Am I nutso? Does one of us not really know how stuff works? I'll be more than happy to take an education from this list..... Thanks ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 06:21:02 PM PST US From: Louis Willig Subject: RV-List: Why an NPT tap/die? --> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig Hi guys. Its funny how often a coincidental situation arises on this list. No one can think of why Mickey Coggins might need an NPT tap/die. But I can. I have had a mystery leak in my RV-4 (IO-360, CS prop) for three years. No one could find the source. I always had drips on the right side of my engine, towards the front and below the cooling air intake ramp. The alternator always had oil on it as did the crankcase and front cylinder base. Three mechanics and the builder tried everything from replacing the crankshaft nose seal to replacing the oil return line on the cylinder, to tightening the cylinder base nuts. Since the upper front of the engine was dry, we could rule out the upper half from our search. Right? WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. Last week, I was in a Sherlock Holmes mode and decided to solve this problem or die trying. Here's what happened: With a magnifying glass, I spent 1/2 hour just looking at every nook and cranny on the front right of the engine. Starting from the bottom. When I got above the level of the air intake ramp, I kept on looking even though the engine is always dry and clean in this zone. But ,then, I found a droplet of oil. The C/S prop oil line that runs from the prop governor to the prop runs below the right hand cylinders and takes a turn vertically at the front of crankcase. It runs up through a hole cut out of the air ramp, and connects to the nose of the engine via a bronze elbow. The elbow has a standard aircraft flare on the end that points down to the oil line, and it screws into the crankcase with a NPT pipe thread. There is absolutely NO misalignment permitted between the S/S oil line and the elbow. The Elbow must be dead nuts vertical, while at the same time be tight enough to seal. The area where the elbow screws into the engine is hidden by the oil line and is out of view and out of touch. This is where I found a droplet of oil. I loosened the flare connection to the elbow and found the elbow absolutely loose to the touch. A sealant was used at the time the engine was built up. This was probably done because your could not give an additional 360 degree turn to the elbow without something snapping or threads stripping. This sealant lost its capacity to make a good seal after the first 100 hrs. of operation. At high RPMs the oil must have been leaking at a moderate rate, but the huge volume of air entering the intake pushed this oil down the outside of the oil line and through the hole in the air ramp to then dispersed all over the lower half of the engine. This explains everything I have found over the past few years. But how do I fix this. Well, I could have purchased a few more elbows and find the one that might fit perfectly. OR, I could chase the pipe threads a little bit at a time until the fitting aligned and tight concurrently. I guess I'm surprised that so many people responded similarly to G.V. But then, I'm surprised that so many mechanics didn't find my oil leak problem. Did I do the wrong thing by chasing the NPT threads to attain alignment? Louis ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 07:16:46 PM PST US From: "William Gill" Subject: RE: RV-List: Transponder testing --> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" At a recent CFI refresher clinic, the manager of the Kansas City ARTCC said that putting the transponder on standby while on the ground was no longer necessary. He explained that the new terminal radars were immune to ground transmissions. Hope this helps. Bill Gill Kansas City, MO -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen Subject: RV-List: Transponder testing --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" Fellow listers, Is there any way to check your transponder on the ground? I had a conversation with the controller at my airport today and he told me that I needed to be airborne....meanwhile, this little birdie from flight school reminds me that I was always instructed to leave my transponder in the 'Stand-By' mode till I took the active so it wouldn't mess up the controllers. Considering that I was a hundred yards away, I thought that he could have told me to hit the ident button and be done with it...we have radar on the field too but that shouldn't matter. Am I nutso? Does one of us not really know how stuff works? I'll be more than happy to take an education from this list..... Thanks == == == == ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 08:32:47 PM PST US From: "Cammie Patch" Subject: RE: RV-List: Transponder testing --> RV-List message posted by: "Cammie Patch" Here in Boise ATC has a brand new radar. It's so good, it picks up all transponders on the surface of the airport, which really clutters up the screen for the controllers. In addition, I've been flying around in a Cirrus a lot lately, and it's annoying to here "traffic, traffic" in my ear while in the pattern, just because someone is taxiing around with their transponder on ALT. I'm sure everyone else with some sort of traffic alert system gets the same results. I teach my students to activate the transponder only when cleared for takeoff. Cammie cfii -----Original Message----- --> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" At a recent CFI refresher clinic, the manager of the Kansas City ARTCC said that putting the transponder on standby while on the ground was no longer necessary. He explained that the new terminal radars were immune to ground transmissions. Fellow listers, Is there any way to check your transponder on the ground? I had a conversation with the controller at my airport today and he told me that I needed to be airborne....meanwhile, this little birdie from flight school reminds me that I was always instructed to leave my transponder in the 'Stand-By' mode till I took the active so it wouldn't mess up the controllers. Considering that I was a hundred yards away, I thought that he could have told me to hit the ident button and be done with it...we have radar on the field too but that shouldn't matter. Am I nutso? Does one of us not really know how stuff works? I'll be more than happy to take an education from this list..... Thanks == == == == ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 11:45:44 PM PST US From: "Albert Gardner" Subject: Re: RV-List: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale --> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" You are the only bidder on this oil cooler, do you still want it for $100? I'll charge only the exact amount that UPS charges me to ship if you do. Give me an address and I'll get it in the box and gone. Albert ----- Original Message ----- From: "sportpilot" Subject: Re: RV-List: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale > --> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" > > I would like to bid on that item , 100.00 when I get back from cancun > thursday ? > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Albert Gardner" > To: ; > Subject: RV-List: SW 10 Coil Oil Cooler for sale > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" > > > > I have a yellow tagged Stewart Warner 10 coil oil cooler 10610A that I > > bought from Pacific Oil Cooler but never used because it wouldn't fit on > the > > rear baffle without a lot more work than I wanted to do. I'll sell this > for > > the best offer. > > Albert Gardner > > RV-9A 872RV > > Yuma, AZ > > > > > >