Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:30 AM - Re: what won't epoxy stick to? (Paul Besing)
2. 05:47 AM - Re: Brake fluid leak (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
3. 06:03 AM - Re: what won't epoxy stick to? (linn walters)
4. 07:27 AM - Re: what won't epoxy stick to? (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
5. 07:34 AM - (Cammie Patch)
6. 07:54 AM - Re: Strobe Lights (Donald Mei)
7. 08:18 AM - Power chart for IO-360A (Kevin Horton)
8. 08:52 AM - (RV8ter@aol.com)
9. 08:52 AM - Re: Counter Balance Weights (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
10. 08:55 AM - Re: Re: Strobe Lights (Bill VonDane)
11. 09:14 AM - Re: Power chart for IO-360A (Randy Lervold)
12. 09:24 AM - For Sale - RV6 Wing and Tail (Rod Kimmell)
13. 09:51 AM - Re: what won't epoxy stick to? (HCRV6@aol.com)
14. 10:10 AM - Re: Power chart for IO-360A (Ron Walker)
15. 10:35 AM - Aeroflash strobes (Sam Buchanan)
16. 10:52 AM - Re: what won't epoxy stick to? (Patty Gillies)
17. 11:17 AM - Re: Power chart for IO-360A (Kevin Horton)
18. 11:38 AM - Re: Power chart for IO-360A (Randy Lervold)
19. 12:08 PM - Re: TVRVBG to Oshkosh (Greg Milner)
20. 01:05 PM - RV-9 Empanage Kit is Sold (John)
21. 01:22 PM - Re: Power chart for IO-360A (Randy Lervold)
22. 03:39 PM - skychicken lands on taxi-way OSH (Greg Milner)
23. 06:51 PM - Re: TVRVBG to Oshkosh (Bobby Hester)
24. 06:58 PM - Blast tubes - Necessary or not? (Mike Holland)
25. 07:09 PM - Re: Blast tubes - Necessary or not? (Charles Rowbotham)
26. 07:14 PM - Re: Blast tubes - Necessary or not? (John Ammeter)
27. 08:00 PM - Re: Blast tubes - Necessary or not? (LarryRobertHelming)
28. 09:18 PM - CHT tempatures (Jason Sneed)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: what won't epoxy stick to? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
I don't like wax paper, becuase it tears and flakes. It's hard to get a
true release. As others have said, duct tape works great. Be sure you put
it on tight, and try not to have too many overlaps so you don't put many
voides under the lay up.
Another method when working with fiberglass pieces, drill holes and use
clecos. This is assuming you are glassing together two already completed
fiiberglass parts. You can fill the holes with filler when you take the
clecos out. Just be sure you take the clecos out just before it is fully
cured (the clecos will be kind of gooey when you take them out). Soak them
in a bath of MEK and they'll be good as new.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: what won't epoxy stick to?
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> I don't have any release tape. So how can I clamp some pieces of
fiberglass
> together and not have the clamps become a permanent part of the assembly?
>
> Does wax paper release from dried up epoxy?
>
> How about electrical tape?
>
> do not archive
>
> lucky
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Brake fluid leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Jim & Bev Cone wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim & Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
>
> I just put brake fluid in my RV-7A and even though I tightened the fittings as
tight as I could and still have them point in the right direction, they both
leak. They will not make another turn tighter. Does anyone on the list have
a suggestion to stop the leaks?
>
> Jim Cone
> 3-peat Offender
I had this problem on my right side using Matco cylinders. They were not tapped
deep enough, I could only get a couple of threads into it. I got a 1/8" NPT tap
and went in a couple of more turns. Both of them needed it. I done remember
now but I think it took them
apart and blew out the chips from the tapping. The other side has Clevelands and
I didnt need it on them, but with other fittings or cylinders, it could be neccessary.
By the way thanks for writing the article about canopy installation. mine went
smooth. The most important idea of yours that I used was to cut off the tube that
would support the latch so that the canopy will fit down on the frame. The
rear skirts which I feared, fit
like a glove, the pilot side skirt only had to be made three times, passenger side
skirt fit great. My front bow in the canopy frame could have used some more
"imagineering" at the factory to make it conform to the windshield bow better.
But it is done and it works
good.
Over the weekend, I had the pleasure of delivering the old Pitts that was owned
by Bob Herendeen, to a contest and bring it back home....... What a plane.
Three vertical rolls and Hammerhead with a fat slob like me. Not bad for a pumped
up 180. 170 cruise at 2750, 190+ wide open with a climb prop. I think when
Charlie Greer was racing it at Reno with the race prop, it was averaging close
to 200 around the course. My old
Pitts was like flying with a drag chute tied to it.
Sure wish my RV was done........
Phil in Litchfield, IL
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: what won't epoxy stick to? |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Paul Besing wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
>
>I don't like wax paper, becuase it tears and flakes. It's hard to get a
>true release. As others have said, duct tape works great. Be sure you put
>it on tight, and try not to have too many overlaps so you don't put many
>voides under the lay up.
>
>Another method when working with fiberglass pieces, drill holes and use
>clecos. This is assuming you are glassing together two already completed
>fiiberglass parts. You can fill the holes with filler when you take the
>clecos out. Just be sure you take the clecos out just before it is fully
>cured (the clecos will be kind of gooey when you take them out). Soak them
>in a bath of MEK and they'll be good as new.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A Sold
>RV-10 Soon
>http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
>Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
>http://www.kitlog.com
>
Or put some oil or peroleum jelly on the cleco before assembly. Much
better than trying to clean them up after the fact.
Linn
Message 4
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| Subject: | what won't epoxy stick to? |
--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
My experiences with epoxy and waxed paper have been consistently bad.
It seems that if the wax gets into the epoxy, either by scratching or
melting (epoxy heats up as it cures), the epoxy will not cure properly, and
sometimes not at all.
Saran wrap works very well as a no-mess substrate.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (wings)
> Does wax paper release from dried up epoxy?
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Cammie Patch" <cammie@sunvalley.net>
Has anyone considered the possibility of a titanium step?
Cammie
Message 6
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| Subject: | re: Strobe Lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Darrell,
Whelen's public safety strobe power supplies are great for experimental
aircraft use. Do a search on my name and the word Whelen and you'll get
some hits.
My home field is right nextdoor to Whelen and is owned by whelen. I've had
several off the record conversations with Whelen people about this.
Some have written that public safety strobes don't have to be as visible as
far away in the day time. (Although the person who wrote that knows FAR
FAR more about aviation than I will ever know, he is wrong in this instance)
Whelen rates their power supplies in Joules. A Joule is a Joule is a Joule.
Another option is to investigate a power supply from another quality vendor.
Nova electronics. ( www.strobe.com ) Nova is just a few miles down the
road from Whelen and was started by ex-whelen employees. I have a Nova
power supply in my plane. (model EPS-40X)
It is a "ruggedized" verson of one of their power supplies. The entire unit
is potted in epoxy. Its completely water and vibration proof. It can drive
2 strobes with a variety of patterns. I believe I paid about $125 for it.
When I purchased it, I confirmed that it provided enough energy to the tubes
to be appropriate for aviation use.
It provides 34 Joules of energy to the tubes when used in an alternating
pattern.
This is identical to the energy provided with individual wing tip whelen
power supplies (A490ATSCF)
If you use the single Whelen power supply (A413AHDACF), this unit can
provide 42 Joules of power in alternating flash mode.
I hope this helps. Either way, a good Public safety power supply (either
Nova or Whelen) will work great in an aircraft.
By the way, have you ever been to Osh or SnF and seen the Whelen sponsored
airplane with all of the strobes all over it. That plane is powered by
several School Bus strobe power supplies.
Finally, some will say that non-aviation strobes are too "noisy". Have you
ever looked inside a modern Police car. They've got more radios than we do.
Power supplies, all of them, need to be quiet. Proper wiring and
grounding are what is needed for a quiet strobe installation. With any power
supply.
Don
Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/
Message 7
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| Subject: | Power chart for IO-360A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
I've been on the road quite a bit lately, and I've had some time on
my hands in the evenings. I put together a power chart for the
IO-360A series engines. It has rpm and MP combinations for 75%, 65%
and 55% power, plus target fuel flows for best power and best
economy. All data is from the Lycoming Operator's Manual and checked
against power charts for Cessna 177RG and Beech Sierra 200 B24R (both
have IO-360-A1B6 engines).
The power chart is available one my web site at:
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
It's in the What's New block for now, on the right side of the page,
but it'll eventually slip off that page, and end up on the Links
page, under Engines.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
What's wrong the the cheaply price but complete looking nav/strobe kit sold in
ACS by Aeorflash (I think that's what it goes buy). Quite a bit less than Whelen
for the same setup (two seperate wing tip power supplies and integrated nav/white/strobe
wingtip lights)?
In a message dated 7/26/2004 10:54:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
>Darrell,
>
>Whelen's public safety strobe power supplies are great for experimental
>aircraft use. Do a search on my name and the word Whelen and you'll get
>some hits.
>
>My home field is right nextdoor to Whelen and is owned by whelen. I've had
>several off the record conversations with Whelen people about this.
>
>Some have written that public safety strobes don't have to be as visible as
>far away in the day time. (Although the person who wrote that knows FAR
>FAR more about aviation than I will ever know, he is wrong in this instance)
>
>Whelen rates their power supplies in Joules. A Joule is a Joule is a Joule.
>
>Another option is to investigate a power supply from another quality vendor.
> Nova electronics. ( www.strobe.com ) Nova is just a few miles down the
>road from Whelen and was started by ex-whelen employees. I have a Nova
>power supply in my plane. (model EPS-40X)
>
>It is a "ruggedized" verson of one of their power supplies. The entire unit
>is potted in epoxy. Its completely water and vibration proof. It can drive
>2 strobes with a variety of patterns. I believe I paid about $125 for it.
>When I purchased it, I confirmed that it provided enough energy to the tubes
>to be appropriate for aviation use.
>
>It provides 34 Joules of energy to the tubes when used in an alternating
>pattern.
>This is identical to the energy provided with individual wing tip whelen
>power supplies (A490ATSCF)
>
>If you use the single Whelen power supply (A413AHDACF), this unit can
>provide 42 Joules of power in alternating flash mode.
>
>I hope this helps. Either way, a good Public safety power supply (either
>Nova or Whelen) will work great in an aircraft.
>
>By the way, have you ever been to Osh or SnF and seen the Whelen sponsored
>airplane with all of the strobes all over it. That plane is powered by
>several School Bus strobe power supplies.
>
>Finally, some will say that non-aviation strobes are too "noisy". Have you
>ever looked inside a modern Police car. They've got more radios than we do.
> Power supplies, all of them, need to be quiet. Proper wiring and
>grounding are what is needed for a quiet strobe installation. With any power
>supply.
>
>
>Don
>
>Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Counter Balance Weights |
--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Neil -
Before paint, my left elevator with electric trim needs a little more weight
than the supplied lead block provides. I mounted a nutplate across the
forward tooling hole in the ribs and used an assortment of fender washers on
a -3 bolt to balance it. I haven't decided yet whether to cast a lead chunk
to replace the washers.
Alternatively, someone (Gretz, maybe?) is making a kit to relocate the servo
and it's attendant weight to the fuse, to get the mass out of the elevator.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (wings)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: re: Strobe Lights |
rv-8@yahoogroups.com, RV10@yahoogroups.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I have contracted Nova (www.strobes.com) to make my power supplies... These
are not the automotive supplies they sell, they are new supplied designed
after their Whelen counterparts... They have the same or more output than
their Whelen counterparts, and are built using modern technology, not the
dated technology that Whelen and AeroFlash uses...
I currently only have the single centrally mounted power supply done and for
sale, but the individual power supplies are in developments as I write
this... I also have low profile strobe heads and installation kits...
My AVI-PAK power supply is $260, designed as a direct replacement for the
Whelen A-413A-HDA-CF-14, and is $110 cheaper than Van's price on the
Whelen...
I am working on direct replacements for the tail strobe/nav lamp from
Whelen, as well as the Whelen all-in-one position/strobe/nave unit that goes
out on the wingtip...
http://creativair.com/cva/
-Bill VonDane
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-8A ~ N8WV ~ Colorado Springs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: re: Strobe Lights
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Darrell,
Whelen's public safety strobe power supplies are great for experimental
aircraft use. Do a search on my name and the word Whelen and you'll get
some hits.
My home field is right nextdoor to Whelen and is owned by whelen. I've had
several off the record conversations with Whelen people about this.
Some have written that public safety strobes don't have to be as visible as
far away in the day time. (Although the person who wrote that knows FAR
FAR more about aviation than I will ever know, he is wrong in this instance)
Whelen rates their power supplies in Joules. A Joule is a Joule is a Joule.
Another option is to investigate a power supply from another quality vendor.
Nova electronics. ( www.strobe.com ) Nova is just a few miles down the
road from Whelen and was started by ex-whelen employees. I have a Nova
power supply in my plane. (model EPS-40X)
It is a "ruggedized" verson of one of their power supplies. The entire unit
is potted in epoxy. Its completely water and vibration proof. It can drive
2 strobes with a variety of patterns. I believe I paid about $125 for it.
When I purchased it, I confirmed that it provided enough energy to the tubes
to be appropriate for aviation use.
It provides 34 Joules of energy to the tubes when used in an alternating
pattern.
This is identical to the energy provided with individual wing tip whelen
power supplies (A490ATSCF)
If you use the single Whelen power supply (A413AHDACF), this unit can
provide 42 Joules of power in alternating flash mode.
I hope this helps. Either way, a good Public safety power supply (either
Nova or Whelen) will work great in an aircraft.
By the way, have you ever been to Osh or SnF and seen the Whelen sponsored
airplane with all of the strobes all over it. That plane is powered by
several School Bus strobe power supplies.
Finally, some will say that non-aviation strobes are too "noisy". Have you
ever looked inside a modern Police car. They've got more radios than we do.
Power supplies, all of them, need to be quiet. Proper wiring and
grounding are what is needed for a quiet strobe installation. With any power
supply.
Don
Discover the best of the best at MSN Luxury Living. http://lexus.msn.com/
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Power chart for IO-360A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> I've been on the road quite a bit lately, and I've had some time on
> my hands in the evenings. I put together a power chart for the
> IO-360A series engines. It has rpm and MP combinations for 75%, 65%
> and 55% power, plus target fuel flows for best power and best
> economy. All data is from the Lycoming Operator's Manual and checked
> against power charts for Cessna 177RG and Beech Sierra 200 B24R (both
> have IO-360-A1B6 engines).
Kevin,
A couple of years ago I had breakfast with Van and his brother Jerry and we
got to talking about power settings. I hypothosized that normal power charts
would not apply to RVs because the FAB intake system is more efficient than
a normal aircraft and in fact provides a minor bump in MAP relative to
ambient at any given altitude. They agreed and we concluded that using the
"rule of 48" system was probably a better method of estimating power. Of
course this wouldn't apply to anyone using a snorkel intake or anything
other than the FAB or some other ram air system.
Thoughts?
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
www.rv-3.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | For Sale - RV6 Wing and Tail |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rod Kimmell" <rod.kimmell@comcast.net>
RV6A empenage and wing kits for sale. I'm moving and can't take the project
with me this time.
Wing kit has Phlogiston spars. Left wing skeleton is assembled. Tail section
is mostly complete.
This kit is mostly pre-punched.
All of the wing skins are prepunched from Vans except the top skin, where I
opted for a single one piece skins.
All of the small wing parts are totally finished. They are CNC machined,
punched and anodized. The small parts were purchased from Bernard Aircraft
when he was selling a fast build option prior to Van coming out with a full
pre-punched kit. The ribs are not pre-punched.
Price: $1800 Buyer pays all shipping.
Location: Portland Oregon Area
Please respond off-list to: rod.kimmell@comcast.net
Rod Kimmell
503 332-7438 mobile
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: what won't epoxy stick to? |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 7/25/04 6:27:28 PM Pacific Daylight Time, RV8ter@aol.com
writes:
<< Does wax paper release from dried up epoxy?
How about electrical tape?
>>
Yes.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Power chart for IO-360A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
> They agreed and we concluded that using the
> "rule of 48" system was probably a better method of estimating power.
What's the "rule of 48" ?
Ron
Message 15
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| Subject: | Aeroflash strobes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
RV8ter@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> What's wrong the the cheaply price but complete looking nav/strobe
> kit sold in ACS by Aeorflash (I think that's what it goes buy).
> Quite a bit less than Whelen for the same setup (two seperate wing
> tip power supplies and integrated nav/white/strobe wingtip lights)?
Absolutely nothing. The Aeroflash strobes are in use on many RVs
(including mine) and are indeed reasonably priced.
There has been MUCH discussion on the list over the years (check the
archives!) as to whether or not they are powerful enough to meet current
experimental regs; those who think they aren't are firm in their
position, and those who think it doesn't matter that much are flying
them on their airplanes after successfully passing the DAR routine. :-)
Any strobe system is visible at night, and in my experience with a bunch
of flying with other RVs, some with Whelen systems and some with
AeroFlash, during daylight hours you will see the profile of an
approaching plane much sooner than you will notice the strobes.
Sam Buchanan
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: what won't epoxy stick to? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patty Gillies" <PGILLIES@gwm.sc.edu>
Both will work. I also used the shiny shelf paper to protect areas I
did not want the resin on ( it always drips). Also, little car wax will
help to ease the separation.
Patty Hamilton
RV-6 Flying, South Carolina
>>> RV8ter@aol.com 7/25/2004 9:26:11 PM >>>
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
I don't have any release tape. So how can I clamp some pieces of
fiberglass
together and not have the clamps become a permanent part of the
assembly?
Does wax paper release from dried up epoxy?
How about electrical tape?
do not archive
lucky
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Power chart for IO-360A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
At 9:12 -0700 26/7/04, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>
>> I've been on the road quite a bit lately, and I've had some time on
>> my hands in the evenings. I put together a power chart for the
>> IO-360A series engines. It has rpm and MP combinations for 75%, 65%
>> and 55% power, plus target fuel flows for best power and best
>> economy. All data is from the Lycoming Operator's Manual and checked
>> against power charts for Cessna 177RG and Beech Sierra 200 B24R (both
>> have IO-360-A1B6 engines).
>
>
>Kevin,
>A couple of years ago I had breakfast with Van and his brother Jerry and we
>got to talking about power settings. I hypothosized that normal power charts
>would not apply to RVs because the FAB intake system is more efficient than
>a normal aircraft and in fact provides a minor bump in MAP relative to
>ambient at any given altitude. They agreed and we concluded that using the
>"rule of 48" system was probably a better method of estimating power. Of
>course this wouldn't apply to anyone using a snorkel intake or anything
>other than the FAB or some other ram air system.
>
>Thoughts?
>
>Randy Lervold
Load of crap, if you ask me. Yes, a more efficient intake means that
there is more MP available. So, you would be able to get a
particular percent power at a slightly higher altitude, than if you
had a less efficient intake. But, the Lycoming power chart uses
inputs of rpm, MP, altitude and temperature. So it is quite capable
of dealing with intakes of different efficiencies. It is just a pain
in the butt to use Lycoming's power chart. Which is why I converted
it into a spreadsheet, and why I've made up my own tabular power
chart.
With a given MP, the engine breathes better if you increase the
altitude. The lower pressure at the exhaust ports helps it scavenge
better, so it makes more power. The rule of 48 is not that
inaccurate, as it doesn't take the effect of altitude into account.
I just fired a few numbers into my IO-360 power spreadsheet (because
it was more interesting than sanding fibreglas, which is what I
really should be doing this afternoon). The rule of 48 isn't too far
off the mark at altitude (i.e. near the highest altitude at which you
can reasonably expect to get a given percent power). It is quite
inaccurate at lower altitudes. For example, using 48 (hundreds value
of RPM, plus MP = 48), I get percent powers that range from 68% to
74%. 45 gives me between 54% and 65%, and 42 gives me between 45%
and 55%. The rule is worst at sea level, and gets better as the
altitude increases.
The rule of 48 is not very good. It is about as accurate as saying
that on average, the sun's position is in the south. So if you head
for the sun you'll be going south. We wouldn't propose that as a
means of navigation, and we shouldn't propose the rule of 48 as a
substitute for a power setting chart.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Power chart for IO-360A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> > They agreed and we concluded that using the
> > "rule of 48" system was probably a better method of estimating power.
>
> What's the "rule of 48" ?
Take your manifold pressure (in inches) and your rpm (in hundreds of rpm)
and add them together. 48, as in 24" of MAP, and 24(00) rpm equals 75%
power. Then for every 3 the sum drops or increases you lose/gain 10% power.
I created a set of tables which I printed and laminated for cockpit use...
http://www.rv-8.com/Downloads/N558RL-CockpitPowerChart.doc
Randy
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: TVRVBG to Oshkosh |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Milner" <tldrgred@execpc.com>
Hartford has car gas for$1.99. 100ll might be $2.60. They have a credit card
actuated gas pump (24-7) and indoor men`s and ladies rooms if youd need to
wash up. Hartford is about 20mi. NW of Waukesha (UES)
Red Milner
RV-4
based@UES
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: TVRVBG to Oshkosh
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
> Bobby Hester wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> >
> > Well I got a call a earlier today that there was an RV6A at our airport
> > awaiting better weather and that the pilot would like to see my RV if I
> > was not busy. Hoped in the truck and zipped off to the airport.
> >
> > Kevin Belue was there with his beautiful RV6A he was on his way to
> > Oshkosh, when he left John C. Tune in Nashville the sky was blue but by
> > the time he got here the sky was closing in. We checked the weather on
> > the terminal computer and it looked like it might be past us in an hour
> > or so. Off we went to my hanger so Kevin could check out my RV7A. After
> > a while we went back to the terminal and saw that the rain was all past
> > us but the overcast was around 1300 and did not even start to clear up
> > past Evansville, IN. Kevin made the decision to tie it down and head to
> > a hotel. I helped him and then took him to a local hotel.
> >
> > He is safe and sound for the night and it looks like things should clear
> > up tomarrow so he can countine on. I hope to hit the road Tuesday
> > morning with a buddy for Oshkosh, hope to see some of you guys there :-)
>
>
> Bobby, thanks for looking after our man Kevin! :-)
>
> My brother and I plan to launch from DCU Tuesday morning so maybe we
> will see you up the road. We'll stop at Watertown, WI to gas up for the
> approach into OSH.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 399SB)
>
>
> _____________________________________________________
>
Message 20
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"rv9-list@matronics.com" <rv9-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | RV-9 Empanage Kit is Sold |
--> RV-List message posted by: John <jleclercq@charter.net>
I am very sorry but the RV-9 Empenage Kit is Sold and most likely the
tools as well. I am sorry if I have not gotten to all the responses to
my post but I did not expect to recieve so many replies. This news group
is really a good one for everyone. Thanks to all for the help.
Sincerely, John L.
Another physically aging person...sadly parting from 90599
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Power chart for IO-360A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> Load of crap, if you ask me. Yes, a more efficient intake means that
> there is more MP available. So, you would be able to get a
> particular percent power at a slightly higher altitude, than if you
> had a less efficient intake. But, the Lycoming power chart uses
> inputs of rpm, MP, altitude and temperature. So it is quite capable
> of dealing with intakes of different efficiencies. It is just a pain
> in the butt to use Lycoming's power chart. Which is why I converted
> it into a spreadsheet, and why I've made up my own tabular power
> chart.
>
> With a given MP, the engine breathes better if you increase the
> altitude. The lower pressure at the exhaust ports helps it scavenge
> better, so it makes more power. The rule of 48 is not that
> inaccurate, as it doesn't take the effect of altitude into account.
>
> I just fired a few numbers into my IO-360 power spreadsheet (because
> it was more interesting than sanding fibreglas, which is what I
> really should be doing this afternoon). The rule of 48 isn't too far
> off the mark at altitude (i.e. near the highest altitude at which you
> can reasonably expect to get a given percent power). It is quite
> inaccurate at lower altitudes. For example, using 48 (hundreds value
> of RPM, plus MP = 48), I get percent powers that range from 68% to
> 74%. 45 gives me between 54% and 65%, and 42 gives me between 45%
> and 55%. The rule is worst at sea level, and gets better as the
> altitude increases.
>
> The rule of 48 is not very good. It is about as accurate as saying
> that on average, the sun's position is in the south. So if you head
> for the sun you'll be going south. We wouldn't propose that as a
> means of navigation, and we shouldn't propose the rule of 48 as a
> substitute for a power setting chart.
Ok, thanks for setting us straight Kevin. Now you can go back to sanding
fiberglass... ;-)
Randy
Message 22
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| Subject: | skychicken lands on taxi-way OSH |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Milner" <tldrgred@execpc.com>
Sunday a 172 landed on the taxi way left of rwy 36. Orange vests ran for cover.
100LL is $2.49 delivered at OSH.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: TVRVBG to Oshkosh |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>Bobby, thanks for looking after our man Kevin! :-)
>
>My brother and I plan to launch from DCU Tuesday morning so maybe we
>will see you up the road. We'll stop at Watertown, WI to gas up for the
>approach into OSH.
>
>Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 399SB)
>
>
>
Kevin, is still here he did not make it out today, it stayed bad all day
but should clear out tomarrow.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 24
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| Subject: | Blast tubes - Necessary or not? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
I'm working on baffles at the moment. O-320 D2A, 60amp vans alternator, gascolator,
one mag, one electronic setup.
Vans plans have call outs for:
1) Alternator
2) Mag
3) Gascolator
How necessary are any of these?
Thanks
Message 25
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| Subject: | Blast tubes - Necessary or not? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Mike,
We installed blast tubes for the Alt, fuel pump and mag. Took Van's and
other's advice - cheap insurance. We picked up some used blast tubes from a
piper baffle set up.
Good Building - it's really worthit !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (300 +) hours
>From: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Blast tubes - Necessary or not?
>Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2004 18:54:42 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
>I'm working on baffles at the moment. O-320 D2A, 60amp vans alternator,
>gascolator, one mag, one electronic setup.
>
>Vans plans have call outs for:
>
>1) Alternator
>
>2) Mag
>
>3) Gascolator
>
>How necessary are any of these?
>
>Thanks
>
>
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Blast tubes - Necessary or not? |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter <jammeter@comcast.net>
On Mon, 26 Jul 2004 18:54:42 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
>I'm working on baffles at the moment. O-320 D2A, 60amp vans alternator, gascolator,
one mag, one electronic setup.
>
>Vans plans have call outs for:
>
>1) Alternator
>
>2) Mag
>
>3) Gascolator
>
>How necessary are any of these?
>
>Thanks
>
>
I didn't do any of these and had no problems with an E2A 150
HP engine in an RV-6 in the Pacific Northwest...
John
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Blast tubes - Necessary or not? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I think it is a good idea to install the cooling blast tubes. Not a big job
to do them. Vans sent me a couple of tubes. Not sure which kit it came
in -- might of been the FWF. I will attach tube thru/to the baffle using
two nuts and lock washer holding a bent brass rod inside of the tube so it
points to the alternator, mag, or whatever. Somebody has a picture of this
somewhere that I got the idea from. It works great. It will prolong the
useful life of your components by reducing temperature. It does rob a bit
of cooling air that would otherwise be used for oil and cylinder head
cooling. But Vans is the designer. He thought it important enough to
include the cooling tubes in his design. I figure I should use the design I
paid for and he probably made the inlets big enough to do that AND cool the
rest of the engine. What do you thinnk??
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty; in
meeting and solving problems, in facing facts, in being a dependable person.
- Richard L. Evans
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Ammeter" <jammeter@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Blast tubes - Necessary or not?
> --> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter <jammeter@comcast.net>
>
> On Mon, 26 Jul 2004 18:54:42 -0700, you wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
> >
> >I'm working on baffles at the moment. O-320 D2A, 60amp vans alternator,
gascolator, one mag, one electronic setup.
> >
> >Vans plans have call outs for:
> >
> >1) Alternator
> >
> >2) Mag
> >
> >3) Gascolator
> >
> >How necessary are any of these?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >
>
> I didn't do any of these and had no problems with an E2A 150
> HP engine in an RV-6 in the Pacific Northwest...
>
> John
>
>
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
I am in North West florida and lately we have had hot 87-94 degree very
humid days. I have noticed that if I do a hot start and take off from
an airport with an OAT of 86 degrees or more I am seeing in the climb
the following data:
climb (hot 85 degree day) Climb only went to 2,500
RF 380-395
LF 395-405
RB 405-445
LB 365-380
cruise (6000 feet 72-75 OAT)
RF 400
LF 410
RB 425
LB 370
I checked the probes, they are very accurate.
At about 2000 feet I start seeing 445 on the EIS at this point I level
off and fly for a while to cool the engine (I climb at 140 mph). This
is very aggregating because ATC does not like to see me stop climbing,
I am sweating my but off and my passenger is pale white watching the
birds and television towers go by. I understand that with a 90 degree
OAT it is hard to cool an engine but are these numbers correct? Is this
normal? My oil cooler is behind #4 and oil temps never bust 225 they
are around 195 in cruise. I have experimented with opening the baffling
sealing the cowl seal ect... The only thing I have not done is make the
air exit hole bigger in the bottom of the cowl. I think redline is 475
I wonder if it is better to just climb until I hit 475 and level off. I
am also not leaning on these hot days which I think is bad for carbon
buildup and bad on my wallet. Any help would be great.
Has anyone noticed a big difference enlarging the air exit hole at the
bottom of the cowl where the exhaust exits the bottom cowl?
RV-6
o-360 with airflow performance fuel injection
9.1 pistons
Thanks again,
Jason
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