Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:04 AM - Re: key/mags/start switches (Richard Bibb)
2. 06:05 AM - Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. (Ralph E. Capen)
3. 06:27 AM - Re: Baffleologist Needed (Phil Birkelbach)
4. 06:49 AM - Re: Baffleologist Needed (DAVID REEL)
5. 07:18 AM - ICOM A200 Installation manual (Ken Simmons)
6. 07:46 AM - Re: Aeroflash Tailight/strobe (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
7. 08:26 AM - Re: [SPAM] osk kosh product update (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
8. 09:23 AM - Printable panel instruments (Matthew Brandes)
9. 09:38 AM - Any I-K Technologies Aim-2 Reports? (DvdBock@aol.com)
10. 10:44 AM - Re: Printable panel instruments (Kathleen (rv7))
11. 11:36 AM - Re: Printable panel instruments (Dan Checkoway)
12. 01:46 PM - Re: Printable panel instruments (CBRxxDRV@aol.com)
13. 08:56 PM - Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. (Ed Holyoke)
14. 09:30 PM - Baffle pics, thanks (Mike Holland)
15. 09:48 PM - google rocks the house (Dan Checkoway)
16. 09:58 PM - Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. (Dan Checkoway)
17. 10:40 PM - Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. (Ed Holyoke)
18. 11:08 PM - Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. (Jim Jewell)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: key/mags/start switches |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Bibb" <rebibb@comcast.net>
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Rev10/z10.pdf
Look at Figure Z-20 in the above to see how to wire this switch. Tons of
good stuff on here related to anything electrical on your ship.
Bob is a real asset to the community.
Richard Bibb
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Andy,
I like your solution - I had already made some decisions that prevented me
from doing it that way.....
next time......
Ralph Capen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuse Blocks on a slider.
> --> RV-List message posted by: Andy Karmy <andy@karmy.com>
>
> I have some pictures of my flip down fuse blocks on my 9A slider.
>
> http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/fuselage/electrical/index.htm
>
> - Andy Karmy
> andy@karmy.com
>
> On Jul 27, 2004, at 3:54 AM, Dana Overall wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> >
> > Does anyone know a good website showing picture locations for a
> > battery,
> > main and essential set of blocks for a 6 or 7 slider?
> >
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Baffleologist Needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
I went through a lot of posterboard while building my baffles. Make the
piece out of posterboard first and then use the posterboard as a
template to trim the aluminum. If you cut off too much paper stuff get
some tape and put some more on and trim again.
Here is my page on the baffles. I am building an O-360 C/S so it will
be somewhat different but it might help.
http://www.myrv7.com/viewlog.php?chapterid=23
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
Mike Holland wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
>Vans baffle kit front floors require a diagonal bend to bring the front in alignment
with the real edge of the cowl. In trying to do that with all the extra
material there appeared to be I cut quite a bit away. But even with a deep
bend the edges don't align well so I was wondering how folks actually do this.
Has anyone posted pictures of these artful bends?
>
>If not a word picture would help. I promise, if I ever get these to fit, per-plans,
I'll post the photos for posterity. It's a standard O-320 with fixed pitch
prop.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike Holland
>RV9A
>Dana Point, CA
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Baffleologist Needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I got a pretty even fit of the baffle front floors to the lower cowl inlet flange
on my O360 by the bend a little then test fit method. Takes a lot of trips
back and forth to the vise but it does work though others may have some secret
approach I don't know about. What I found, Mike, was that the bend line on
the baffle kit plan didn't make sense. I think the cowl has changed making the
location of the bend line obsolete. I also cut a lot away from the front &
I would characterize the bend for the right side floor as fairly steep, about
30 degrees, whereas the left side floor is very shallow. On both sides, the bend
starts within about an inch forward of the cylinder fins and is not parallel
to them. I also remember that I put some twist into the right side floor by
bending it more sharply as you move outboard along the bend line to get the
floor to align with the inlet flange. Everything is disassembled right now, but
if you need it, send me an email & I should be able to eventually forward a
digital picture. My daughter is about to give me a grandson so there may be
some delay.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 5
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| Subject: | ICOM A200 Installation manual |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
I'm looking for an installation manual for this radio. I found the pinout on Bob's
website, but I was hoping for a little more detail.
Thanks.
Ken
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash Tailight/strobe |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
While we're on the subject of Aeroflash...
I installed the Aeroflash combo unit in my rudder and had to trim the flange
around the housing holding the bulbs to match the rudder and used a Whelen
retainer ring (the Aeroflash units come with a large round flange). The initial
installation would flash intermittently, gradually deteriorating to fewer
flashes before crapping out all together. A new power supply from Aeroflash
(great customer service) did not cure the problem, but a new strobe worked
correctly before I trimmed the flange again and installed into the rudder, which
now
exhibits the original intermittent flashing. There is about 4 feet of wiring
from the power supply (mounted under emp fairing) and the bulb, with one
five-pin amp connector on the end of a short pigtail from the lamp unit. All wiring
has been triple-checked.
Anyone else run into this or can explain why "carefully" trimming the flange
would cause this failure?
Mark -6A N51PW now sports an OSH propcard! 8-) do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: osk kosh product update |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 07/28/2004 10:36:47 AM Central Standard Time,
mstewart@iss.net writes:
They told me directly December.
Mike
>>>>>>>>>>>>
I grilled 'em about the nav (moving map) unit also, and was told "by next
OSH, maybe..." so at least they're working on it. The engine monitor does look
damn nice, tho...........
Mark do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Printable panel instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
I'd like to start mocking up my panel and would like some printable versions
of the various flight/engine instruments in full size if possible. Anyone
have any? Altimeter, VSI, ASI, etc.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Any I-K Technologies Aim-2 Reports? |
--> RV-List message posted by: DvdBock@aol.com
Listers:
Am planning on I-K Technologies Aim-2 Eng Monitor -- have searched archives
& found much-earlier favorable report on I-K 2000 by Stein Bruch, but
nothing recent. I-K site no help ("under constrn").
Any other user reports on this option? Any info on ease of sensor install,
or other comments?
Thanks in advance.
Dave Bockelman
F1 Rocket
Message 10
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| Subject: | Printable panel instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen@rv7.us>
Mathew,
I have images that I add to my panel layouts full-size in Photoshop. They
are not great quality, but you or anyone else is welcome to them. I'd be
happy to email them (they are all 300 dpi). I put each one up as a separate
layer so I can move them around at will. This is certainly not the best way
to do it, but failing other options, I'm happy to offer what I have.
You can look at some (shrunk and dropped to 72 dpi) panel mockups at
http://www.rv7.us/a_panel.htm, but NO laughing at my ideas! :-)
Kathleen Evans
Folsom, CA
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matthew Brandes
Subject: RV-List: Printable panel instruments
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
I'd like to start mocking up my panel and would like some printable versions
of the various flight/engine instruments in full size if possible. Anyone
have any? Altimeter, VSI, ASI, etc.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Printable panel instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
http://images.rvproject.com/images/panel/
That's some to start with, maybe outdated by now. Have fun with your "panel
puzzle." 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Printable panel instruments
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
>
> I'd like to start mocking up my panel and would like some printable
versions
> of the various flight/engine instruments in full size if possible. Anyone
> have any? Altimeter, VSI, ASI, etc.
>
>
> Matthew Brandes,
> Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
> EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
> www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Printable panel instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Fuse Blocks on a slider. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Andy,
It's beautiful.
I wonder if you've considered a way to keep flame and gases from
penetrating the firewall at your wire and cable pass throughs? It
appears in the photos that you're using plastic snap fittings.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Karmy
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuse Blocks on a slider.
--> RV-List message posted by: Andy Karmy <andy@karmy.com>
I have some pictures of my flip down fuse blocks on my 9A slider.
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/fuselage/electrical/index.htm
- Andy Karmy
andy@karmy.com
On Jul 27, 2004, at 3:54 AM, Dana Overall wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> Does anyone know a good website showing picture locations for a
> battery,
> main and essential set of blocks for a 6 or 7 slider?
>
==
==
==
==
Message 14
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| Subject: | Baffle pics, thanks |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Holland" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
Appreciate the good photos and suggestions, excellent timing too, with the weekend
to bend aluminum.
It's beginning to make sense which usually is the feeling I get just before I have
to start ordering replacement parts.
Mike
Message 15
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<RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | google rocks the house |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Ok, I knew about google's conversion tools...which are way cool. For
example, go to http://google.com (or use the google toolbar) and type in
"200 mph in knots" or "42 gal in liters" or "1100 pounds in kilos" or "2
quarts in liters" or whatever.
But I just stumbled across something that's even more relevant to us
aviation geeks...
Go to google and type in any N-number. Above the search results is a link
to quickly look up the FAA registration. Now you don't have to navigate
through the FAA's horrible web site and click like 7 times just to get to
the query page. Straight to the results.
Somebody over there at google is thinkin', that's for sure.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> I wonder if you've considered a way to keep flame and gases from
> penetrating the firewall at your wire and cable pass throughs? It
> appears in the photos that you're using plastic snap fittings.
Gases are one thing, but fire is another. Are you planning on using an
aluminum heat bypass box? If so, then fireproofing every little nook and
cranny on your firewall may not make a bit of difference if you do have a
fire. In theory, won't that heat box melt and expose a relatively huge 2+
inch hole straight into the cockpit?
Just playing devil's advocate...
I understand there are stainless steel heat boxes available...have to admit
that mine is aluminum.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Fuse Blocks on a slider. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Dan,
That's a good point. I'm planning for a stainless heat box and stainless
pipe / firesleeve combo for wires and probably stainless eyeballs for
cables for just that reason. Aluminum quickly melts at gas fire
temperatures. If there were to be a fire, it would be fanned by (nearly)
200 mph wind and could get very hot indeed. On our current ride, I've
liberally covered two piece metal grommet covers with 3M intumescent (it
swells when it gets hot) firecaulk to make myself feel better. Anything
you can do to delay the infiltration of fire and noxious fumes as long
as possible seems prudent. Sealing the firewall thoroughly may cut down
on carbon monoxide in the cabin during normal operation as well.
Ed Holyoke
> I wonder if you've considered a way to keep flame and gases from
> penetrating the firewall at your wire and cable pass throughs? It
> appears in the photos that you're using plastic snap fittings.
Gases are one thing, but fire is another. Are you planning on using an
aluminum heat bypass box? If so, then fireproofing every little nook
and
cranny on your firewall may not make a bit of difference if you do have
a
fire. In theory, won't that heat box melt and expose a relatively huge
2+
inch hole straight into the cockpit?
Just playing devil's advocate...
I understand there are stainless steel heat boxes available...have to
admit
that mine is aluminum.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
==
==
==
==
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Dan,
I ran into this same thought with the Aluminium triangle shaped heat box
that Van's supplied.
I replaced the heat box door and the actuator arm with SS pieces. while I
was at it I moved the actuator arm to the outside so that I could add a duct
tube on the inside of the firewall for better heat distribution. While I was
at it I moved the Plate nuts off the heat box and put them on the inside of
the firewall. I inserted a 2" scat tube flange into the hole in the firewall
from the engine side to allow scat tube attachment on the cabin side. The
heat box sits on top of the flange holding it in place when the screws are
done up.
This makes the heat box and flange removable from the firewall from the
engine side for service etc.Almost every thing on the firewall forward side
is similarly removable. I hope to reduce under control panel time this way.
The heat control cable penetrates the firewall and is also heat protected.
It was easier to change the door and arm than I thought and a lot cheaper
than ordering the alternative all SS heat box.
I am on the lookout for a small bit of SS hinge to replace the aluminum one
that is on the Van's heat box to complete the upgrade.
With the added bit of SS hinge door and actuator the 2' hole can be
mechanically closed well enough to buy some time in that bad situation, I
hope. {[8-[ !
Good flights and greased landings,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuse Blocks on a slider.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > I wonder if you've considered a way to keep flame and gases from
> > penetrating the firewall at your wire and cable pass throughs? It
> > appears in the photos that you're using plastic snap fittings.
>
> Gases are one thing, but fire is another. Are you planning on using an
> aluminum heat bypass box? If so, then fireproofing every little nook and
> cranny on your firewall may not make a bit of difference if you do have a
> fire. In theory, won't that heat box melt and expose a relatively huge 2+
> inch hole straight into the cockpit?
>
> Just playing devil's advocate...
>
> I understand there are stainless steel heat boxes available...have to
admit
> that mine is aluminum.
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
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