Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:33 AM - Lycoming design improvements (R.A.S)
2. 07:57 AM - Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. (Jim Streit)
3. 08:37 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: Any I-K Technologies Aim-2 Reports? (Ken Anderson)
4. 09:52 AM - Micromonitor calibration (Knicholas2@aol.com)
5. 10:53 AM - Strobe regs question (Paul M Parashak)
6. 11:06 AM - Re: Baffleologist Needed (HCRV6@aol.com)
7. 12:07 PM - Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. (Jim Sears)
8. 12:08 PM - Alternate Air Source on RV4 (Jerry Isler)
9. 12:37 PM - Re: Strobe regs question (Michael McGee)
10. 12:46 PM - Re: Alternate Air Source on RV4 (Kyle Boatright)
11. 02:43 PM - Re: Baffleologist Needed (Larry Bowen)
12. 03:46 PM - Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. (Jim Streit)
13. 05:22 PM - Low-Cost wig wag (Scott Vanartsdalen)
14. 06:06 PM - Re: Low-Cost wig wag (linn walters)
15. 06:26 PM - Re: Low-Cost wig wag (Scott Vanartsdalen)
16. 07:57 PM - lyco crankshaft crossover/sludge tube (RGray67968@aol.com)
17. 08:18 PM - Shopping for a VHF Radio (Jim Oke)
18. 08:40 PM - Converting O360 to IO360 (Richard B. Rauch)
19. 09:12 PM - Re: Converting O360 to IO360 (Jim Cimino)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Lycoming design improvements |
--> RV-List message posted by: "R.A.S" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
apparently lycoming is improving it's design of the piston family engines:
a quote from an article from the EAA Airventure Today says it all:
""Lycoming points to the success of its IO-390-X, introduced at EAA
AirVenture 2003, as proof of the success of its technology plan. "This is
the most powerful, turbocharged, normally aspirated engine we've ever
brought to market," said Wolf.""
That's a truly amazing technological achievement, a turbocharged normally
aspirated engine.......
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
Hey Dan and listers,
Vans sell two types of heat selector boxes, you probably have either the
1st or 2nd one. The 1st is all aluminum, no good in a fire. The second
is an aluminum box with a stainless steel flapper valve which should
keep fire out of the cockpit except for the fact that the aluminum will
melt or deform allowing the flapper valve to fall away from the 2 +"
hole in the firewall creating a flame thrower. There is a 3rd.
alternative, an all stainless box and flapper valve which I purchased
from EPM.AV Corp. http://www.epm-avcorp.com/
I have received my heat box and it is first class. Very well made and
cost $96 which is only $23 or $33 more than the one's that Vans sells.
but according to EPM.AV's web site the stainless one will stand up to a
2000 degree fire.
a blurb from their web site
"With an all stainless heat selector box design now in hand, our
attention turned to testing the unit in a simulated "real life"
application. Paul built a mockup firewall and attached it to a stainless
steel heat selector box and proceeded to apply flames from a propane
weed burner affectionately named "Puff the Magic Dragon". "Puff" spits
out 2 ft. flames in the neighborhood of 1800 to 2000F.
Immediately the temperature sensor output signal in the firewall mockup
raced past 500F. Within two minutes the firewall temperature was over
1000 degrees and the heat selector box began glowing dull red. In about
three minutes the firewall temperature stabilized just below 1400
degrees and the selector box was glowing bright red.
Some surface scaling was present but the unit did not melt. After ten
minutes "Puff" was extinguished. The stainless selector box held up well
as expected. What happened next caught our attention!
We attached an all aluminum heat selector box to the mockup firewall and
reproduced the same flame test. Within eight seconds of flame impacting
the aluminum selector box the frame changed shape and lost substantial
strength. The firewall temperature at this point was approximately
400F. Within sixteen seconds, the "flapper" valve melted, allowing test
flames to enter the test cockpit area. Within one minute the selector
box melted away, with only the mounting bolts remaining.
The dramatic and rapid meltdown of the aluminum box inspired concerns
about the time available to shut down engine operation and cut off fuel
flow."
They also sell stainless fire wall penetrations that you can check out
as wiring holes can be a deadly source of a cabin fire in an engine fire
situation
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>
>
>>I wonder if you've considered a way to keep flame and gases from
>>penetrating the firewall at your wire and cable pass throughs? It
>>appears in the photos that you're using plastic snap fittings.
>>
>>
>
>Gases are one thing, but fire is another. Are you planning on using an
>aluminum heat bypass box? If so, then fireproofing every little nook and
>cranny on your firewall may not make a bit of difference if you do have a
>fire. In theory, won't that heat box melt and expose a relatively huge 2+
>inch hole straight into the cockpit?
>
>Just playing devil's advocate...
>
>I understand there are stainless steel heat boxes available...have to admit
>that mine is aluminum.
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: Any I-K Technologies Aim-2 Reports? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Anderson" <ken@peggyking.com>
I had I-K Technologies make a AIM-2 unit that would read out Fuel Quantities
for my RV-9A with Capacitive sensors. I found that Ralph was knowledgeable,
responsive, and easy to work with. I have my AIM-2 unit now, but have not
installed it. The unit arrived with good documentation. I am looking
forward to installing and using it.
Ken Anderson
RV-9A Fuselage
From: DvdBock@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Any I-K Technologies Aim-2 Reports?
--> RV-List message posted by: DvdBock@aol.com
Listers:
Am planning on I-K Technologies Aim-2 Eng Monitor -- have searched
archives
& found much-earlier favorable report on I-K 2000 by Stein Bruch, but
nothing recent. I-K site no help ("under constrn").
Any other user reports on this option? Any info on ease of sensor install,
or other comments?
Thanks in advance.
Dave Bockelman
F1 Rocket
Message 4
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| Subject: | Micromonitor calibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
How do I calibrate the amp. meter setting on my Rocky Mt. Instruments
micromonitor? The manual makes reference to calibration but I I cannot find it
in
the manual. (It is probably right in from of me and I just don't see it......)
Thanks.
Kim Nicholas
Seattle
RV9A Flying!!!
Message 5
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| Subject: | Strobe regs question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul M Parashak <paulmike@parashak.net>
With all the discussion of strobes, I started digging into the regs and have
a question. FAR23.1401=A0=A0=A0Anticollision light system ( found here:
http://tinyurl.com/3k6g3 ), is this the strobe or the red beacon? How many
strobes do I really need? Two or three? I was planning a rudder position
light but Van=B9s also sells an aft light/strobe combo. Do I need the combo?
Regards, Paul
rv8a.parashak.net
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Baffleologist Needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 7/29/04 8:54:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
hollandm@pacbell.net writes:
<< if I ever get these to fit, per-plans >>
I don't think you ever will Mike. In my case with 0-360, I had to shorten
the inlet floors a lot and the bends, both the floors and the sidewalls,
required to match up with the cowl were not in the places shown on the plans.
I
concluded that the plans are more of a generic guide. I used a lot of cardboard
patterns to figure out the necessary geometry. Sorry, I don't have any
pictures, but that would just spoil your fun anyway.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> Vans sell two types of heat selector boxes, you probably have either the
> 1st or 2nd one. The 1st is all aluminum, no good in a fire. <snip> Vans
sells.
> but according to EPM.AV's web site the stainless one will stand up to a
> 2000 degree fire.
I hate to sound like a spoil sport and may be totally off base in this
discussion; but, I've just got to ask the question, anyway. Have any of you
ever given any thoughts about what the cowl is made of? I think the heat
selector box is going to be the last thing I'll worry about if a fire in the
engine compartment is hot enough to melt the box. That cowl is going to be
going up in smoke. Right behind it will be a canopy melting in my lap. I'm
not going to be worried about a fire in a two inch hole. I'm going to worry
about how to get away from that melting plastic! One guy has already
experienced this problem and didn't make it. He was a great RV-list
contributor, too. Of course, I've been known to be wrong about these things
and try to learn from my mistakes. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
EAA Technical Counselor
Message 8
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| Subject: | Alternate Air Source on RV4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
I have a filtered air box from Van's that I am installing on an RV-4 and I
also have a carb heat muff from Robbins. The question is how do you connect
the two together? The filtered air box, as designed, has a flapper valve
that opens or closes a 'D' shaped hole in the top of the box for the
alternate air source. This source is the heated air that comes past the
cylinders underneath the engine. I do not see a good way to connect a 2"
SCAT hose to the top of the box and over to the heat muff. The problem is
the way the actuator arm is installed on the flapper valve. It protrudes
through the 'D' shaped hole so you cannot cover it up with a hose connector.
Is the heated air from the cylinders all I need for carb heat?
Thanks,
Jerry Isler
RV-4 N455J
Donalsonville, Ga.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Strobe regs question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
At 10:43 2004-07-31, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul M Parashak <paulmike@parashak.net>
>
>With all the discussion of strobes, I started digging into the regs and have
>a question. FAR23.1401=A0=A0=A0Anticollision light system ( found here:
>http://tinyurl.com/3k6g3 ), is this the strobe or the red beacon? How many
>strobes do I really need? Two or three? I was planning a rudder position
>light but Van=B9s also sells an aft light/strobe combo. Do I need the combo?
>
>Regards, Paul
>rv8a.parashak.net
Simply put, you need to be able to see at least one of the strobes all the
way around the plane, all 360 degrees. So...
If you use the combo lights that stick out the end of the wing tips that
you can see from behind the plane, you don't need the tail light on the rudder.
If you use the lights that are recessed into the forward corner of the wing
tip that you cannot see from behind the plane, then you need the tail light.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode, RD-1C, EC-2
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate Air Source on RV4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Van's sells an adapter that makes exactly the connection you need. It has a
2" flange for SCAT tubing on one end and the other end rivets to your
airbox. The airbox end is raised slightly off of the airbox, and I can think
of a couple of reasons for that, but I dunno if they are the *real* reasons.
There are a couple of pic's at this link:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/engine4.html but they don't give a
tremendous view of the details of the adapter.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: Alternate Air Source on RV4
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
>
> I have a filtered air box from Van's that I am installing on an RV-4 and I
> also have a carb heat muff from Robbins. The question is how do you
connect
> the two together? The filtered air box, as designed, has a flapper valve
> that opens or closes a 'D' shaped hole in the top of the box for the
> alternate air source. This source is the heated air that comes past the
> cylinders underneath the engine. I do not see a good way to connect a 2"
> SCAT hose to the top of the box and over to the heat muff. The problem is
> the way the actuator arm is installed on the flapper valve. It protrudes
> through the 'D' shaped hole so you cannot cover it up with a hose
connector.
> Is the heated air from the cylinders all I need for carb heat?
>
> Thanks,
> Jerry Isler
> RV-4 N455J
> Donalsonville, Ga.
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Baffleologist Needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
In contrast, my inlet floors & sides have no bends - they weren't needed. I
had to cut almost 2" off the floor length.
Use the plans only to understand the concepts of how/why it's done. Then do
whatever is needed to make your individual installation work.
-
Larry Bowen. RV-8 almost...
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: HCRV6@aol.com [mailto:HCRV6@aol.com]
> Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2004 2:06 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Baffleologist Needed
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 7/29/04 8:54:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> hollandm@pacbell.net writes:
>
> << if I ever get these to fit, per-plans >>
>
> I don't think you ever will Mike. In my case with 0-360, I
> had to shorten
> the inlet floors a lot and the bends, both the floors and the
> sidewalls,
> required to match up with the cowl were not in the places
> shown on the plans. I
> concluded that the plans are more of a generic guide. I used
> a lot of cardboard
> patterns to figure out the necessary geometry. Sorry, I
> don't have any
> pictures, but that would just spoil your fun anyway.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, final assembly
>
>
> ============
> Matronics Forums.
> ============
> ============
> ============
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse Blocks on a slider. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
A gasoline fire will be fed from a gasoline source ( the carburator/amd
or fuel lines)which is at the bottom of the engine. The air flow
through the cowling is from the air intake , through the baffles , then
down past the firewall and out through the exit at the rear of the
cowl. The cowling , at least at the air intake will be experiencing
relatively cool air vs. the temp of the air where the gasoline fire is
burning. Shutting off the fuel pump and fuel valve could stop the fire
before it spread to the fiberglass cowliing.
Jim Streit
CFII
RV-9A
90073
N973MC
Jim Sears wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
>
>
>
>
>>Vans sell two types of heat selector boxes, you probably have either the
>>1st or 2nd one. The 1st is all aluminum, no good in a fire. <snip> Vans
>>
>>
>sells.
>
>
>>but according to EPM.AV's web site the stainless one will stand up to a
>>2000 degree fire.
>>
>>
>
>I hate to sound like a spoil sport and may be totally off base in this
>discussion; but, I've just got to ask the question, anyway. Have any of you
>ever given any thoughts about what the cowl is made of? I think the heat
>selector box is going to be the last thing I'll worry about if a fire in the
>engine compartment is hot enough to melt the box. That cowl is going to be
>going up in smoke. Right behind it will be a canopy melting in my lap. I'm
>not going to be worried about a fire in a two inch hole. I'm going to worry
>about how to get away from that melting plastic! One guy has already
>experienced this problem and didn't make it. He was a great RV-list
>contributor, too. Of course, I've been known to be wrong about these things
>and try to learn from my mistakes. :-)
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
>EAA Technical Counselor
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Low-Cost wig wag |
rv4-list@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I just received Knuckolls' alternating flasher from the B&C website. Cost $25
including shipping. It took me about 15 minutes to install it mostly because
I had already wired up my switches in anticipation of installing a flasher. I
didn't want to shell out the buck for the other wig wag units (which are very
nice...I'm just a cheapskate.) The thing works great. Four wires, some fast-on
connectors, and a very small module; very easy to install. It's not adjustable,
you get one flash pattern and that's it. It's working well for me.
Submitted FWIW.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Low-Cost wig wag |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
>I just received Knuckolls' alternating flasher from the B&C website. Cost $25
including shipping. It took me about 15 minutes to install it mostly because
I had already wired up my switches in anticipation of installing a flasher.
I didn't want to shell out the buck for the other wig wag units (which are very
nice...I'm just a cheapskate.) The thing works great. Four wires, some fast-on
connectors, and a very small module; very easy to install. It's not adjustable,
you get one flash pattern and that's it. It's working well for me.
>
>Submitted FWIW.
>
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
Is this a landing light flasher?
Linn
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Low-Cost wig wag |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Yes, sorry. I knew what I was thinking I guess I can't expect everyone else to
know. This was in fact, a landing light flasher that specifically alternately
flashes your landing and taxi lights. My landing lights are Duckworks lights
in the leading edge. Using the standard bulb that shipped with the kit circa
1999.
linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters
Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen
>
>I just received Knuckolls' alternating flasher from the B&C website. Cost $25
including shipping. It took me about 15 minutes to install it mostly because I
had already wired up my switches in anticipation of installing a flasher. I didn't
want to shell out the buck for the other wig wag units (which are very nice...I'm
just a cheapskate.) The thing works great. Four wires, some fast-on
connectors, and a very small module; very easy to install. It's not adjustable,
you get one flash pattern and that's it. It's working well for me.
>
>Submitted FWIW.
>
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
Is this a landing light flasher?
Linn
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 16
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| Subject: | lyco crankshaft crossover/sludge tube |
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
Regarding the crossover/sludge tube in the hollow crank of my O-360 engine,
can any of you engine gurus tell me:
1-What the crossover tube is for?
2-How is the oil supplied to the tube?
3-In a fixed pitch application the oil runs back down the crank to the
sump....in a C/S application, is the oil just 'trapped' in the hollow crank?
4-Is the tube necessary?
Thanks in advance.
Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - Posted this on the lyco list as well.
for the archives
Message 17
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| Subject: | Shopping for a VHF Radio |
1.4 DATE_IN_FUTURE_96_XX Date": is.96.hours.or.more.after.Received:date@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Sigh, it seems that the old Terra handheld in my RV-3 has finally given it's last
gasp and it is time to shop for a suitable replacement. Due to size and space
constraints in my panel, the best option would probably be a 2 1/4" panel mount
such as the Microair M760 or similar. Anyone been shopping for a Microair
lately? How about the X-Air XCOM 760 or something similar? Any comment on price
and availability of these radios which I gather have been variable at times?
Jim Oke
RV-3 C-FIZM
RV-6A C-GKGZ
Winnipeg, MB
Message 18
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| Subject: | Converting O360 to IO360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard B. Rauch" <richardr@apcon.com>
Has anyone had any experience converting a Lycoming O360 carbureted engine to an
IO360 fuel injected engine.
Richard B. Rauch
Email: richardr@apcon.com
APCON, Inc.
17938 SW Upper Boones Ferry Rd.
Portland, OR 97224 USA
Ph: (503)639-6700
Fax: (503)639-6740
Web: www.apcon.com
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Converting O360 to IO360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
I have moved the fuel injection servo from the rear of my engine to the
front. But I think most guys just mount the fuel injection servo underneath
and install a scoop.
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
100+ Hours
570-842-4057
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard B. Rauch" <richardr@apcon.com>
Subject: RV-List: Converting O360 to IO360
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard B. Rauch" <richardr@apcon.com>
>
> Has anyone had any experience converting a Lycoming O360 carbureted engine
to an IO360 fuel injected engine.
>
>
> Richard B. Rauch
> Email: richardr@apcon.com
>
> APCON, Inc.
> 17938 SW Upper Boones Ferry Rd.
> Portland, OR 97224 USA
> Ph: (503)639-6700
> Fax: (503)639-6740
>
> Web: www.apcon.com
>
>
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