Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:57 AM - Re: First Flight N266WB (Charles Rowbotham)
2. 01:02 AM - Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. (Todd Bartrim)
3. 03:17 AM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (Kevin Horton)
4. 03:36 AM - Re: LED Navigation Light Project (alan@reichertech.com)
5. 04:53 AM - Re: Aileron Trim (LarryRobertHelming)
6. 05:10 AM - Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. (LarryRobertHelming)
7. 05:18 AM - Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. (CBRxxDRV@aol.com)
8. 05:38 AM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (cgalley)
9. 05:50 AM - Flywheel (Dave Durakovich)
10. 05:50 AM - Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
11. 06:22 AM - Re: How to make a fresh air respirator (Jordan Grant)
12. 06:22 AM - ALT (lui)
13. 06:50 AM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (Dan Checkoway)
14. 07:56 AM - Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. (cgalley)
15. 09:26 AM - Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 (Tim Bryan)
16. 10:15 AM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (Shemp)
17. 11:33 AM - Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 (Monty Barrett)
18. 12:57 PM - fuel injection (Wheeler North)
19. 01:19 PM - Re: How to make a fresh air respirator (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
20. 01:26 PM - Re: ALT (Wayne R. Couture)
21. 01:32 PM - Re: Fitting Completed Fuel Tank (Matthew Brandes)
22. 01:48 PM - Re: ALT (Andy Karmy)
23. 01:53 PM - Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 (Jim Sears)
24. 02:19 PM - Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 (Tim Bryan)
25. 04:18 PM - Re: ALT (Bruce Gray)
26. 04:41 PM - Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose (Charlie Kuss)
27. 04:41 PM - Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 (Charlie Kuss)
28. 04:49 PM - TruTrak Servo Hardware (Steve&Anita Nyman)
29. 05:29 PM - insurance (Chuck Weyant)
30. 05:30 PM - Re: TruTrak Servo Hardware (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
31. 05:43 PM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (Alex Peterson)
32. 05:58 PM - Re: insurance (J. R. Dial)
33. 06:13 PM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (Dan Checkoway)
34. 06:22 PM - LED Bulb replacements for Nav Lights (Mark Taylor)
35. 06:44 PM - Re: TruTrak Servo Hardware (N67BT@aol.com)
36. 07:07 PM - Re: insurance (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
37. 07:17 PM - Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 (Jim Sears)
38. 07:25 PM - Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. (Jim Sears)
39. 07:54 PM - Re: insurance (Jim Sears)
40. 08:53 PM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (Doug Rozendaal)
41. 08:54 PM - Re: insurance (RV6 Flyer)
42. 08:57 PM - Re: Fitting Completed Fuel Tank ()
43. 09:19 PM - Re: TruTrak Servo Hardware (Richard E. Tasker)
44. 09:35 PM - (no subject) (CBRxxDRV@aol.com)
45. 09:36 PM - CS vs FP props (CBRxxDRV@aol.com)
46. 10:03 PM - Rudder issues. (Dean Psiropoulos)
Message 1
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| Subject: | First Flight N266WB |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Doug,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Doug Bell" <dbell@manisteenational.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: First Flight N266WB
>Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 23:58:39 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Bell" <dbell@manisteenational.com>
>
>Well,
>After 5 1/2 years of building and working as all others have, N266WB took
>flight on a perfect summer Sunday in Northern Michigan
>RV8
>Kit # 80889
>O360 A4M
>Fixed pitch Catto 3 Blade Prop
>Ellison Throttle Body
>Basic VFR
>
>My father and I have been slowing down this quick build for a while now but
>it all came to a perfect first flight at 830pm on 8/8/04. The flight went
>very well and lasted about 35 minutes. Take off was as expected and I
>spent most of the time around 3500-4500 ft making gradual passes around the
>field in Cadillac MI. One high speed run indicated 145mph but I was not
>trimmed properly so I was climbing most of the run. All temps stayed in
>line and I never felt anything but confidence. Only thing that I noticed
>was a heavy left wing. Landing was pretty good if I do say so myself and
>caught on film it looks good every time I replay it.
>Many thanks go out to all the listers I read emails from. I read more than
>contribute and appreciate all of your emails.
>Thanks to Danny King for a thanksgiving weekend ride for me and an earlier
>one for my father, to Mike Seger for early RV training flights and to Dave
>Lammers of Cedar Rapids IA. I flew last week with Dave for my RV checkout
>and his training gave me all the confidence I needed for first flight. I
>would highly recommend anyone flying with Dave if you can. First class in
>every way and a terrific instructor. Thanks to my Co Building Dad and his
>inspiration to me to tackle this project. We did it together and that is
>awesome. To may Mom for supplying lunch and dinner so many nights and
>winter days and to my broter Mike for keeping the hanger plowed open in the
>winter.
>My sweetheart Ann, and the kids deserve many thanks for dealing with this
>crazy idea and putting up with the final push to complete it. Family
>really does suffer at some or all times while these things get built.
>Kudos to all you "better halfs" out there.
>So many other people are involved along the way and all deserve thanks.
>Vans support was always great and I look forward to many trips and meeting
>all of you out there at some fly in.
>Look for the RV 8 with a golfer on the tail.
>Here to seeing you all soon.
>Doug Bell Jr., PGA
>RV8
>N266WB
>Flying..........Oh that sounds so good!
>
>
Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and
Message 2
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| Subject: | Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
Hi Terry;
I'm a brand new pilot and did most of my learning on the RV-9a that I
built. During my test hours I flew to an unmaintained 2000' grass strip a
few times and I had absolutely no problems. I built my plane with both mains
for TG & TD, as I plan to one day put it on skis as a TD, but for bush
operations I currently feel no need to change to a TD for rough fields. I
have had the opportunity to do ~1.5 hours of touch & goes in an RV6 and
while I still could use more taildragger practice, I'm not against the TD,
but I do feel that the better visibility in the TG is nice when on a rough
strip. If you can see the hole, you can avoid the hole.
As a low time pilot, I realize I may not have the credibility of some of
the old-timers on the list who will surely want to start a primer war over
this (ouch... just kidding), but just wanted to say that If I can do it then
you shouldn't have any trouble.
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
That accident sounds like it was on Bonanza, with a Continental
engine. Most of them have boost pumps with both Hi and Lo speed
settings. Putting the boost pump on Hi, with the engine driven pump
working, is known to cause the engine to stumble and maybe quit. But
I've never heard of this problem with Lycoming IO-360s, which have a
single speed boost pump.
According to my Lycoming Opeator's Manual, that engine should be able
to handle up to 45 psi at the inlet to the "fuel injector". The
context isn't completely clear, but they seem to use that term to
mean the fuel injection servo, which is bolted on the front of the
sump. So, I think there must be some sort of problem with the fuel
injection servo on that engine. Or an electric pump that is putting
out more than 45 psi, and a pressure gauge that reads low.
Kevin Horton
>--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
>I am not an A&P nor did I stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night. I
>discussed Greg Young's problem at the time with my IA, a well-known Bonanza
>Mechanic. He said that this is a well known problem when the boost pump has
>more pressure than the engine driven one. My SWAG would be to reduce the
>pressure to what the engine driven pump is required to produce for the
>injection system.
>
>Cy Galley
>Safety Programs Editor
>EAA Sport Pilot
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
><alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>>
>>
>> >
>> > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
>> > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
>> > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
>> > standby for when the engine pump fails.
>> >
>> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
>> > Safety Programs Editor - TC
> > > EAA Sport Pilot
>>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: LED Navigation Light Project |
--> RV-List message posted by: alan@reichertech.com
I bought some LED replacement lamps for my car to try them out. They
ended up being quite a bit dimmer than the regular lamps, so I went back
to the normal lamps.
This is only one experience, but it seems that (at least in the auto
sector) the technology is not yet there. The LED Project looks
interesting, though. I'll keep watching that one.
- Alan
> Time: 04:21:45 PM PST US
> From: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
> Subject: RV-List: Re: LED Navigation Light Project
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
>
> Hi Doug,
>
> If you want to go with a simple bulb change, there are LED replacements
> currently avaliable. I have seen them advertised in electronic component
> catalogues, as well as some motorcycle accessory suppliers. They are ideal
> as tail-light globes in that high vibration environment. You can get them
> in
> red and clear, dunno about green though......
> Just a thought....
>
> Martin in Oz
> RV6 flying
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
My opinion on aileron trim is to use the manual option or none at all. When
using any electric trim (that is meant to include elevator trim also), you
are introducing another point of potential failure, and/or runaway. It
increases the number of wires you must install, and route.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker" I must be about done, all my drill
bits seem dull.
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty; in
meeting and solving problems, in facing facts, in being a dependable person.
- Richard L. Evans
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Neal E Capt AU/PC" <Neal.George@maxwell.af.mil>
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Trim
> --> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC
<Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
>
> Listers -
>
>
> Since I have another two months to wait for Vans to ship my standard wing
> kit, I'd like to hear some comments, experiences or recommendations
> regarding manual vs. electric aileron trim in the RV-7.
>
>
> Neal
>
> RV-7 N8ZG
>
> (STILL waiting for wings)
>
>
> <style>
> <!--
> /* Style Definitions */
> p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
> {margin:0in;
> margin-bottom:.0001pt;
> font-size:12.0pt;
> font-family:"Times New Roman";}
> a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
> {color:blue;
> text-decoration:underline;}
> a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
> {color:purple;
> text-decoration:underline;}
> span.EmailStyle17
> {font-family:Arial;
> color:windowtext;}
> @page Section1
> {size:8.5in 11.0in;
> margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;}
> div.Section1
> {page:Section1;}
> -->
> </style>
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Listers -
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Since I have another two months to wait for Vans to
ship my standard
> wing kit, I'd like to hear some comments, experiences or recommendations
> regarding manual vs. electric aileron trim in the RV-7.
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Neal
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>RV-7 N8ZG
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>(STILL waiting for wings)
>
>
> <span style='font-size:
> 12.0pt'>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
The A model will be easier to land, take off, and taxi with. The TW will
require you to get more flight training to get the TW endorsement. Some say
the TW endorsement will make you a better pilot. I am not wanting to start
a NW/TW skirmish here and I am not saying NW pilots cannot be as good as TW.
Also consider how it looks on the ground and if a time will come when you
might sell it. The NW could have more potential buyers. The NW is a bit
more challenging to build.
The type of field you land on and your skill level should help you make this
decision. Either option can be landed and taxied well with dedication to
concentrating on the situation. TW just requires more of it all the time
IMO........ Insurance may be a bit more on the TW especially for low-time
TW'er.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty; in
meeting and solving problems, in facing facts, in being a dependable person.
- Richard L. Evans
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski wheel problems." <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel
problems.
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> wheel problems.
>
> From what I have read either model can end up on its nose. Full up
> elevator really helps on an A model. Traditionally a tail dragger appears
> to be the more off road capable. Call the factory to verify the latest in
> landing gear changes.
>
>
> At 03:58 PM 8/9/2004 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore@shaw.ca>
> >
> >
> >Hi Gang:
> >
> >I'm finally going to be able to get back to building my RV-6A after too
> >long a break. I'm going to order my fuselage kit and I have to decide
> >which version to build.
> >
> >My situation has changed and it looks like I will be based on a 2000
> >foot grass strip that does have some rough spots. At the time I was
> >forced to put my project on the back burner there was a problem with the
> >nose wheel rod on the 6A's, some had broken and I believe there was a
> >recall of sorts.
> >
> >My question, have there been any problems since? Has the problem been
> >corrected?
> >
> >I would prefer the 6A, but if there is any doubt about it I would go
> >with the 6 and get some tailwheel training.
> >
> >
> > thanks, terry.
> >
> >
> >Terry Mortimore,
> >426 McNabb Street
> >Sault Ste Marie, Ontario
> >Canada P6B-1Z3
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. |
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
In a message dated 8/10/04 8:11:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
lhelming@sigecom.net writes:
> The NW is a bit
> more challenging to build.
>
??? Now you have my interest. Why ?
Sal
Lakeland, FL
RV-4
RV-8 tail
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Greg Young had an RV-6 and is currently re-building.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
> That accident sounds like it was on Bonanza, with a Continental
> engine. Most of them have boost pumps with both Hi and Lo speed
> settings. Putting the boost pump on Hi, with the engine driven pump
> working, is known to cause the engine to stumble and maybe quit. But
> I've never heard of this problem with Lycoming IO-360s, which have a
> single speed boost pump.
>
> According to my Lycoming Opeator's Manual, that engine should be able
> to handle up to 45 psi at the inlet to the "fuel injector". The
> context isn't completely clear, but they seem to use that term to
> mean the fuel injection servo, which is bolted on the front of the
> sump. So, I think there must be some sort of problem with the fuel
> injection servo on that engine. Or an electric pump that is putting
> out more than 45 psi, and a pressure gauge that reads low.
>
> Kevin Horton
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> >I am not an A&P nor did I stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night. I
> >discussed Greg Young's problem at the time with my IA, a well-known
Bonanza
> >Mechanic. He said that this is a well known problem when the boost pump
has
> >more pressure than the engine driven one. My SWAG would be to reduce the
> >pressure to what the engine driven pump is required to produce for the
> >injection system.
> >
> >Cy Galley
> >Safety Programs Editor
> >EAA Sport Pilot
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> ><alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> >> > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> >> > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> >> > standby for when the engine pump fails.
> >> >
> >> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> >> > Safety Programs Editor - TC
> > > > EAA Sport Pilot
> >>
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Durakovich <ddurakovich@yahoo.com>
Anyone have an idea of appropriate part numbers for a flywheel for an O-360?
Plain jane, no de-ice, etc., but do need alternator belt (standard size!) capabilities.
Going on a RV-4....
Thanks,
Dave
Message 10
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| Subject: | Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Another wheel pant, another gear fairing, transition fairing to cowl,
more hardware, more alignments, more weight, another tire hub assembly,
another potential shimmy hassle.
Mike Stewart
6A
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
CBRxxDRV@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose
wheel problems.
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
In a message dated 8/10/04 8:11:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
lhelming@sigecom.net writes:
> The NW is a bit
> more challenging to build.
>
??? Now you have my interest. Why ?
Sal
Lakeland, FL
RV-4
RV-8 tail
==
==
==
==
Message 11
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| Subject: | How to make a fresh air respirator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Question about using a vac for your fresh-air source: Does the air that you
breath get hot?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Scott
Subject: RV-List: How to make a fresh air respirator
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
This system costs less than $120 and gives you filtered air from a remote
location, similar to a Hobby Air.
1. Get a small shop vac called "The Stinger" from Home Depot for about
$28. Use it only for your respirator.
2. Get a Tyvek painting hood from an auto paint supplier for about $28.
3. Get a swimming pool vacuum hose, 1.5" diameter, about $40-50, a little
less in the fall when business slows. I bought 50 feet, it is also sold in
40 ft. lengths; Hobby Air uses 40 ft.
4. Pick up a belt clip from your hardware store's key section and a hose
clamp for your pool hose.
Take the small orange attachment from the shop vac and cut off the spreader
portion, saving the round tube portion. This is your adapter you will use
to mate the pool hose to the shop vac hose. Connect the pool hose to the
shop vac hose and the hood, but making sure you use the end that swivels
for the spray hood. Attach the belt clip to the pool hose near the hood
with a zip tie.
Take an old baseball cap and cut off the bill. Attach that to the inside
of the hood with a couple safety pins or whatever such that it your head
movements.
Put a belt around your chest and use the belt clip to keep the hose weight
from pulling on the hood.
Locate the vac in a safe location & spray away! Be sure to be aware of any
changes in the wind.
Notes:
1. If you try to go cheap & use 1 1/4" pool hose it will set up a howl
that earplugs won't even begin to deal with. The larger diameter hose
reduces the velocity & removes the howl. However, a fellow builder did go
with the smaller hose and reports that placing an old 35mm film can in the
hose slowed the air enough to quiet the howl. I have not tried this. The
1 1/4" hose will connect directly to the shop vac hose without the adapter.
2. I have not tried the baseball cap thing yet. I have used the system
without it and as I tilt my head up or down the hood does not follow. So
far, I have always had a free hand to adjust the hood as necessary, but I
do intend to try the baseball cap thing, just haven't needed to yet.
3. There are peel off lenses available for the hood. Some paint suppliers
carry them, some don't, some that do only sell them in a package , rather
than individually. You may have to cough up ~ $25 for a package of them.
Richard Scott
RV-9A Emp almost done
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "lui" <signco@ev1.net>
Just wondering if anyone has any suggestion for a good Altimeter source.
So far I have seen the low end Falcons for $100+ and the upper United $500+.
Any other that I may be missing?
Are those Falcons any good?
Luis
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump on during
the
> first flight, killed the engine and could not restart because it was
> flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a standby for when the engine pump
fails.
Huh?!? This sure sounds like an isolated incident.
If turning on the boost pump floods the engine, fix the problem.
On my IO-360-A1B6 w/Airflow Performance injection, my high pressure boost
pump is ON during every takeoff and landing, and whenever switching tanks.
Operating the boost pump should essentially not alter the engine operating
characteristics at all in normal conditions.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
If you think for a moment that tail wheels don't shimmy, think again. Tail
wheels were the biggest problem this year at Oshkosh. used our tail dragger
stick more than the nose wheel puller. Tail wheels can and do damage
rudders. Tail wheels can cause easier loss of control, ground loops. Yet I
own tailwheel airplane.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel
problems.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
>
> Another wheel pant, another gear fairing, transition fairing to cowl,
> more hardware, more alignments, more weight, another tire hub assembly,
> another potential shimmy hassle.
>
>
> Mike Stewart
> 6A
> Do not archive
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> CBRxxDRV@aol.com
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose
> wheel problems.
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 8/10/04 8:11:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> lhelming@sigecom.net writes:
>
>
> > The NW is a bit
> > more challenging to build.
> >
>
> ??? Now you have my interest. Why ?
>
>
> Sal
> Lakeland, FL
> RV-4
> RV-8 tail
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer@improvementteam.com>
I must say I have monitored this list for several years and I have poked
around in the archives some. I remember lots of different pictures over the
years about this - But...
I had intended to place my fuel pump under the fuel valve as I have seen
done before. I think there is room however I am not now able to find a
fitting to connect the pump (flared) fitting directly to the fuel valve
(pipe) fitting. There does not seem to be enough room to build a short
piece of tubing there and still get out under the fuel pump to the engine
I really don't like placing the pump sticking out of the left side of the
cockpit. It would seem more work than I want to put it in the wing root and
plumb through the metal two extra times.
I am now looking for ideas from scratch. I have no plumbing in the cabin
yet for fuel but my gascolator is mounted on the left side of the firewall
with the incoming port coming through the firewall behind the pedals.
Any new ideas, pictures, etc...? When a plan doesn't work you just
re-work the plan.
Thanks for any help
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
Emp kit purchased in Feb- 1990
Will FLY this year!!!
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I have a Bendix injector and when I turn on the b.p., the engine rpm drops
for a half second, then comes back up to normal. I see a surge on my fuel
pressure gauge but then it returns to normal. I dont feel any change at
above idle settings.
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
> That accident sounds like it was on Bonanza, with a Continental
> engine. Most of them have boost pumps with both Hi and Lo speed
> settings. Putting the boost pump on Hi, with the engine driven pump
> working, is known to cause the engine to stumble and maybe quit. But
> I've never heard of this problem with Lycoming IO-360s, which have a
> single speed boost pump.
>
> According to my Lycoming Opeator's Manual, that engine should be able
> to handle up to 45 psi at the inlet to the "fuel injector". The
> context isn't completely clear, but they seem to use that term to
> mean the fuel injection servo, which is bolted on the front of the
> sump. So, I think there must be some sort of problem with the fuel
> injection servo on that engine. Or an electric pump that is putting
> out more than 45 psi, and a pressure gauge that reads low.
>
> Kevin Horton
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> >I am not an A&P nor did I stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night. I
> >discussed Greg Young's problem at the time with my IA, a well-known
Bonanza
> >Mechanic. He said that this is a well known problem when the boost pump
has
> >more pressure than the engine driven one. My SWAG would be to reduce the
> >pressure to what the engine driven pump is required to produce for the
> >injection system.
> >
> >Cy Galley
> >Safety Programs Editor
> >EAA Sport Pilot
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> ><alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> >> > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> >> > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> >> > standby for when the engine pump fails.
> >> >
> >> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> >> > Safety Programs Editor - TC
> > > > EAA Sport Pilot
> >>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Monty Barrett" <bpa@bpaengines.com>
Wherever you put the Boost pump, it should be on the " cold side " of the
firewall, NOT in the engine compartment. Boost pumps do not survive the
high temps present in the engine bay. They are much happier and live longer
If kept away from the heat as much as practical.
Monty Barrett
BPA Engines.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer@improvementteam.com>
I must say I have monitored this list for several years and I have poked
around in the archives some. I remember lots of different pictures over the
years about this - But...
I had intended to place my fuel pump under the fuel valve as I have seen
done before. I think there is room however I am not now able to find a
fitting to connect the pump (flared) fitting directly to the fuel valve
(pipe) fitting. There does not seem to be enough room to build a short
piece of tubing there and still get out under the fuel pump to the engine
I really don't like placing the pump sticking out of the left side of the
cockpit. It would seem more work than I want to put it in the wing root and
plumb through the metal two extra times.
I am now looking for ideas from scratch. I have no plumbing in the cabin
yet for fuel but my gascolator is mounted on the left side of the firewall
with the incoming port coming through the firewall behind the pedals.
Any new ideas, pictures, etc...? When a plan doesn't work you just
re-work the plan.
Thanks for any help
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
Emp kit purchased in Feb- 1990
Will FLY this year!!!
Message 18
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Last I heard Bonanza's have Continental engines not Lycomings.
The Continental continous flow system is very pressure dependant as the
pressure created by fuel pump RPM is how it knows the engine speed, the
Precision/Bendix RSA system used on lycomings isn't.
It sounds like something may be wrong in the servo. Does mixture setting
alter the behaviour? Does the pressure to the flow divider change with the
boost pump on, if so, it shouldn't so it would have to be in the servo.
W
Time: 01:44:18 PM PST US
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
From: "Berthet, Andre G" <andre.g.berthet@intel.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Berthet, Andre G"
<andre.g.berthet@intel.com>
I have an IO-360-A1A and have a strange problem. When the engine is hot,
turning the booster pump ON will results in a substantial drop of RPM.
Let say if I set my engine speed to 1300 RPM and then turn the booster
ON, the engine speed will decrease by about 500 RPM. Of course if I do
that at a normal idling of 700 RPM, the engine just quit. My servo has
been overhauled in January, re-inspected in June and I'm sending it back
again. The flow divider and the fuel nozzles have been overhauled last
June too. Also the idling speed is changing depending if the engine is
hot or cold. My mixture is adjusted for a 25 RPM rise at ICO.
My engine driven pump alone produces 23 PSI of fuel pressure, and when
the booster pump is turned ON it increases the pressure to 28 PSI.
Could anyone have suggestions how to fix this problem?
Andre
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: How to make a fresh air respirator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
Not the one I use, I think the volume is too high ,and it is the pressure
that would cause the temp rise. Perhaps the air expands when it comes into
the painter's hood, but it feels refreshingly cool right on the back of my
neck where it comes out of the hose.
Scott in vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: How to make a fresh air respirator
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>
>
> Question about using a vac for your fresh-air source: Does the air that
you
> breath get hot?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Scott
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: How to make a fresh air respirator
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
>
> This system costs less than $120 and gives you filtered air from a remote
> location, similar to a Hobby Air.
>
> 1. Get a small shop vac called "The Stinger" from Home Depot for about
> $28. Use it only for your respirator.
>
> 2. Get a Tyvek painting hood from an auto paint supplier for about $28.
>
> 3. Get a swimming pool vacuum hose, 1.5" diameter, about $40-50, a little
> less in the fall when business slows. I bought 50 feet, it is also sold
in
> 40 ft. lengths; Hobby Air uses 40 ft.
>
> 4. Pick up a belt clip from your hardware store's key section and a hose
> clamp for your pool hose.
>
> Take the small orange attachment from the shop vac and cut off the
spreader
> portion, saving the round tube portion. This is your adapter you will use
> to mate the pool hose to the shop vac hose. Connect the pool hose to the
> shop vac hose and the hood, but making sure you use the end that swivels
> for the spray hood. Attach the belt clip to the pool hose near the hood
> with a zip tie.
>
> Take an old baseball cap and cut off the bill. Attach that to the inside
> of the hood with a couple safety pins or whatever such that it your head
> movements.
>
> Put a belt around your chest and use the belt clip to keep the hose weight
> from pulling on the hood.
>
> Locate the vac in a safe location & spray away! Be sure to be aware of
any
> changes in the wind.
>
> Notes:
> 1. If you try to go cheap & use 1 1/4" pool hose it will set up a howl
> that earplugs won't even begin to deal with. The larger diameter hose
> reduces the velocity & removes the howl. However, a fellow builder did go
> with the smaller hose and reports that placing an old 35mm film can in the
> hose slowed the air enough to quiet the howl. I have not tried this. The
> 1 1/4" hose will connect directly to the shop vac hose without the
adapter.
> 2. I have not tried the baseball cap thing yet. I have used the system
> without it and as I tilt my head up or down the hood does not follow. So
> far, I have always had a free hand to adjust the hood as necessary, but I
> do intend to try the baseball cap thing, just haven't needed to yet.
> 3. There are peel off lenses available for the hood. Some paint
suppliers
> carry them, some don't, some that do only sell them in a package , rather
> than individually. You may have to cough up ~ $25 for a package of them.
>
> Richard Scott
> RV-9A Emp almost done
>
>
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
get a rebuilt one from Rudy's aircraft instrument's for about $375.00. They
work and look great.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "lui" <signco@ev1.net>
Subject: RV-List: ALT
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lui" <signco@ev1.net>
>
> Just wondering if anyone has any suggestion for a good Altimeter source.
> So far I have seen the low end Falcons for $100+ and the upper United
$500+.
> Any other that I may be missing?
> Are those Falcons any good?
>
> Luis
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | RE: Fitting Completed Fuel Tank |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
Scott,
I'm sure you've checked but make sure the tank isn't hanging up an any of
the spar rivets. Some of the spar rivets fall REAL close to the tank
baffle. You may have to stick an inspection mirror in somewhere to peek.
I assume the inboard z-bracket isn't sitting all the way down on the spar
flange and that whatever is hanging up is preventing this?
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: Andy Karmy <andy@karmy.com>
Well, I have a falcon, I had to adjust it by removing the little screw
and resetting the knob to get it to agree with pressure vs altitude. It
seems to work fine, however the needles are never still while flying.
My plane is dynamically balanced, and I still get hand vibrations that
I assume is due to a cheap unit. Don't know if a $500 one would damp
out those vibrations or not.
- Andy Karmy
andy@karmy.com
On Aug 10, 2004, at 6:28 AM, lui wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lui" <signco@ev1.net>
>
> Just wondering if anyone has any suggestion for a good Altimeter
> source.
> So far I have seen the low end Falcons for $100+ and the upper United
> $500+.
> Any other that I may be missing?
> Are those Falcons any good?
>
> Luis
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> Wherever you put the Boost pump, it should be on the " cold side " of the
> firewall, NOT in the engine compartment. Boost pumps do not survive the
> high temps present in the engine bay. They are much happier and live
longer
> If kept away from the heat as much as practical.
I beg to differ. I had a round Facet boost pump on my '77 Cheetah that did
quite well on the engine side of the firewall. With that, I put the same
kind on my -6A on the engine side of the firewall. Works like a charm.
Maybe the little square ones that Van's sells don't last in the heat; but, I
didn't care too much for those, anyway.
I personally don't care for having the boost pump in the cabin with me.
Because I put mine on the engine side, it was easy to T off that for the
primer valve, as well.
Oh, yeah. I don't have a gascolator, either. That's another discussion, in
itself. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Finishing the tail)
EAA Technical Counselor
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer@improvementteam.com>
Thanks all for the great ideas and pictures. My boost pump will definately
be in the cabin area, just a matter of where.
Tommy sent me a picture of the -7 idea that also fits the description of the
another poster. This seems like a reasonable solution. I do have my
battery box in the stock -6 location but should be able to navigate this no
problem.
Thanks to all
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6
--> RV-List message posted by: "Monty Barrett" <bpa@bpaengines.com>
Wherever you put the Boost pump, it should be on the " cold side " of the
firewall, NOT in the engine compartment. Boost pumps do not survive the
high temps present in the engine bay. They are much happier and live longer
If kept away from the heat as much as practical.
Monty Barrett
BPA Engines.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer@improvementteam.com>
I must say I have monitored this list for several years and I have poked
around in the archives some. I remember lots of different pictures over the
years about this - But...
I had intended to place my fuel pump under the fuel valve as I have seen
done before. I think there is room however I am not now able to find a
fitting to connect the pump (flared) fitting directly to the fuel valve
(pipe) fitting. There does not seem to be enough room to build a short
piece of tubing there and still get out under the fuel pump to the engine
I really don't like placing the pump sticking out of the left side of the
cockpit. It would seem more work than I want to put it in the wing root and
plumb through the metal two extra times.
I am now looking for ideas from scratch. I have no plumbing in the cabin
yet for fuel but my gascolator is mounted on the left side of the firewall
with the incoming port coming through the firewall behind the pedals.
Any new ideas, pictures, etc...? When a plan doesn't work you just
re-work the plan.
Thanks for any help
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
Emp kit purchased in Feb- 1990
Will FLY this year!!!
Message 25
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Falcon gages are made in Red China. I consider their stuff to be
garbage.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Andy Karmy
Subject: Re: RV-List: ALT
--> RV-List message posted by: Andy Karmy <andy@karmy.com>
Well, I have a falcon, I had to adjust it by removing the little screw
and resetting the knob to get it to agree with pressure vs altitude. It
seems to work fine, however the needles are never still while flying.
My plane is dynamically balanced, and I still get hand vibrations that
I assume is due to a cheap unit. Don't know if a $500 one would damp
out those vibrations or not.
- Andy Karmy
andy@karmy.com
On Aug 10, 2004, at 6:28 AM, lui wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lui" <signco@ev1.net>
>
> Just wondering if anyone has any suggestion for a good Altimeter
> source.
> So far I have seen the low end Falcons for $100+ and the upper United
> $500+.
> Any other that I may be missing?
> Are those Falcons any good?
>
> Luis
==
==
==
==
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose |
wheel problems.
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net> wheel problems.
Mike
Probably the biggest headache peculiar to the 6A, is installing the main
landing gear weldments. The 6A shares the old 2 piece main spars of the 3,
4 & 6. Part of the reason for the newer 3 piece main spar, is that the main
gear and weldment sockets don't have to be removed to take the wings on or off.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
><mstewart@iss.net>
>
>Another wheel pant, another gear fairing, transition fairing to cowl,
>more hardware, more alignments, more weight, another tire hub assembly,
>another potential shimmy hassle.
>
>
>Mike Stewart
>6A
>Do not archive
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose
>wheel problems.
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 8/10/04 8:11:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>lhelming@sigecom.net writes:
>
>
> > The NW is a bit
> > more challenging to build.
> >
>
>??? Now you have my interest. Why ?
>
>
>Sal
>Lakeland, FL
>RV-4
>RV-8 tail
>
>
>==
>==
>==
>==
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
At 04:52 PM 8/10/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
>
> > Wherever you put the Boost pump, it should be on the " cold side " of the
> > firewall, NOT in the engine compartment. Boost pumps do not survive the
> > high temps present in the engine bay. They are much happier and live
>longer
> > If kept away from the heat as much as practical.
>
>I beg to differ. I had a round Facet boost pump on my '77 Cheetah that did
>quite well on the engine side of the firewall. With that, I put the same
>kind on my -6A on the engine side of the firewall. Works like a charm.
>Maybe the little square ones that Van's sells don't last in the heat; but, I
>didn't care too much for those, anyway.
>I personally don't care for having the boost pump in the cabin with me.
>Because I put mine on the engine side, it was easy to T off that for the
>primer valve, as well.
>Oh, yeah. I don't have a gascolator, either. That's another discussion, in
>itself. :-)
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
>RV-7A #70317 (Finishing the tail)
>EAA Technical Counselor
Jim
I believe the discussion was referring to fuel injected boost pumps.
Charlie Kuss
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | TruTrak Servo Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve&Anita Nyman" <nyman@bellsouth.net>
I'm installing the roll servo in the right wing of my 7 and was curious what others
used for hardware to mount the servo to the bracket that replaces the lower
bellcrank bracket. The attach holes in the servo are threaded for an AN3 bolt
or an AN509-10 screw. I was thinking one of those with a lock washer and
Loctite, or maybe a long enough screw to go all the way through the servo housing
and put a lock nut on it.
Thanks
Steve
7QB
MEM
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
Who you guys using for insurance? Best quote I can get is $1,700 a year.
Chuck
Message 30
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| Subject: | TruTrak Servo Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>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b24gaXQuDQoJDQoJVGhhbmtzDQoJU3RldmUNCgk3UUINCglNRU0NCgkNCgkNCglfLT09PT09PT09
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ICBodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vRkFRL1JWLUxpc3QuaHRtDQoJXy09ICBTZWFyY2gg
RW5naW5lOiAgaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL3NlYXJjaA0KCV8tPSAgNy1EYXkgQnJv
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PSAgTGl2ZSBMaXN0IENoYXQ6IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9jaGF0DQoJXy09ICBB
cmNoaXZlczogICAgICAgaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL2FyY2hpdmVzDQoJXy09ICBQ
aG90byBTaGFyZTogICAgaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL3Bob3Rvc2hhcmUNCglfLT0g
IExpc3QgU3BlY2lmaWM6ICBodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vcnYtbGlzdA0KCV8tPSAg
T3RoZXIgTGlzdHM6ICAgIGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9lbWFpbGxpc3RzDQoJXy09
ICBUcm91YmxlIFJlcG9ydCAgaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL3Ryb3VibGUtcmVwb3J0
DQoJXy09ICBDb250cmlidXRpb25zOiAgaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL2NvbnRyaWJ1
dGlvbg0KCV8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQoJDQoJDQoJDQoJDQoJDQoNCg==
Message 31
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| Subject: | Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> On my IO-360-A1B6 w/Airflow Performance injection, my high
> pressure boost pump is ON during every takeoff and landing,
> and whenever switching tanks. Operating the boost pump should
> essentially not alter the engine operating characteristics at
> all in normal conditions.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
Dan, why the pump when switching tanks?
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 510 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
Try Falcon Insurance,
830-257-1000
Jim Nelson
They did a good job for me on my RV6.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant
Subject: RV-List: insurance
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
Who you guys using for insurance? Best quote I can get is $1,700 a
year.
Chuck
==
==
==
==
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Dan, why the pump when switching tanks?
It's the way I've always done it on all the low wing planes I've flown.
Wish I had a more technical answer, but that's all I got. 8-)
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | LED Bulb replacements for Nav Lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
Gents,
You probably shouldn't use direct replacement LED bulbs for the NAV lights
as they're directional, and certain angle requirements have to be met.
That's why the proper LED nav lights you can buy have the LED bent all over
the place.
Mark.
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Servo Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
On my Altrak servo (same as the roll servo) I drilled out the threads and
put AN bolts clear through with washers and lock nuts. This will also safety
the small socket head screws nearby. I plan to do the same with the roll
servo.
Bob Trumpfheller
In a message dated 8/10/2004 5:50:24 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
nyman@bellsouth.net writes:
I'm installing the roll servo in the right wing of my 7 and was curious what
others used for hardware to mount the servo to the bracket that replaces the
lower bellcrank bracket. The attach holes in the servo are threaded for an
AN3 bolt or an AN509-10 screw. I was thinking one of those with a lock
washer and Loctite, or maybe a long enough screw to go all the way through the
servo housing and put a lock nut on it.
Thanks
Steve
7QB
MEM
Message 36
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--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
J.T. Helms has insured my last 3 birds.
Nationair - 877-475-5860
Doug
RV8 N127EK
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> > Wherever you put the Boost pump, it should be on the " cold side " of
the
> > > firewall, NOT in the engine compartment. Boost pumps do not survive
the
> > > high temps present in the engine bay. They are much happier and live
> >longer
> > > If kept away from the heat as much as practical.
> >
> >I beg to differ. I had a round Facet boost pump on my '77 Cheetah that
did
> >quite well on the engine side of the firewall. With that, I put the same
> >kind on my -6A on the engine side of the firewall. Works like a charm.
> >Maybe the little square ones that Van's sells don't last in the heat;
but, I
> >didn't care too much for those, anyway.
> >I personally don't care for having the boost pump in the cabin with me.
> >Because I put mine on the engine side, it was easy to T off that for the
> >primer valve, as well.
> >Oh, yeah. I don't have a gascolator, either. That's another discussion,
in
> >itself. :-)
> >
> >Jim Sears in KY
> >RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
> >RV-7A #70317 (Finishing the tail)
> >EAA Technical Counselor
>
> Jim
> I believe the discussion was referring to fuel injected boost pumps.
> Charlie Kuss
>
Oh, gee. I thought we were talking low pressure boost pumps. I just caught
the tail end of that one, I guess. If that's the case, put it in the
cabin; but, be very careful with the plumbing. Pat Patterson bought a RV
that had been damaged in a forced landing. As it happens, it appeared that
a fitting worked loose on the plumber's nightmare around the boost pump
you're talking about. It was at the base of the left gear mount. Ugly. I
guess it works, though. That is, if the fittings are tight. :-)
Jim in KY
do not archive
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> Probably the biggest headache peculiar to the 6A, is installing the main
> landing gear weldments. The 6A shares the old 2 piece main spars of the 3,
> 4 & 6. Part of the reason for the newer 3 piece main spar, is that the
main
> gear and weldment sockets don't have to be removed to take the wings on or
off.
> Charlie Kuss
>
I must admit that I really do like that feature. However, there seems to be
that added security I have in the fact that my -6A has 80 bolts holding on
the wings. I'll have to do some adjusting to get comfortable with the 20
bolts, or so, on the -7A I'm building. :-)
Jim in KY
Message 39
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> J.T. Helms has insured my last 3 birds.
>
> Nationair - 877-475-5860
I switched to Nationair this year. I was insured through another agent and
got a substantial savings by making the switch.
Jim Sears in KY
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
<alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> Dan, why the pump when switching tanks?
>
Alex,
Many low wing aircraft flight manuals call for boost pumps on while
switching tanks. This is especially important in higher altitude airplanes.
Between the vapor pressure of the fuel and the low ambient air pressure,
switching tanks can get interesting.
At sea level, you have 14.7 psi available to replace the fuel consumed by
the engine, but at 18,000 it is less than half of that. Throw in the vapor
pressure of the fuel and getting fuel to the pump can be a big deal. Many
high altitude airplanes have the electric boost pump built in the tank.
Some have small boost pumps in the tank that run all the time to feed the
engine driven or primary electric boost pumps.
Many turbine airplanes have jet (or venturi) pumps that are powered by the
return fuel that feeds fuel to the engine driven fuel pump much like a two
pipe well pump system on a farm.
In the B-25 the fuel pressure will start to jump around above 10,000 feet in
the summertime. We have a low setting on the electric pumps that we use to
smooth it out.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 41
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--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
J.T. Helms at Nationair - 877-475-5860 for the past 3 years. Saw about a
25% savings over Avemco.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,570 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: insurance
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> J.T. Helms has insured my last 3 birds.
>
> Nationair - 877-475-5860
I switched to Nationair this year. I was insured through another agent and
got a substantial savings by making the switch.
Jim Sears in KY
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
Message 42
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| Subject: | RE: Fitting Completed Fuel Tank |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Thanks for the suggestion Matt. I dug into it more, and I found that it still
had too much proseal on the root end. I had to scrape it down to the rivet height.
As an FYI for those yet to proseal the baffle...I would recommend you use it sparingly
on the inboard end. I wouldn't dab any on the shop heads of the inboard
ten or so...it will just cause interference with the thickest portion of the
spar doubler.
Scott
7A Wings
--- On Tue 08/10, Matthew Brandes < matthew@n523rv.com > wrote:
From: Matthew Brandes [mailto: matthew@n523rv.com]
Cc: tx_jayhawk@excite.com
Subject: RE: Fitting Completed Fuel Tank
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2800.1458" name=GENERATOR>
<SPAN
class=531303020-10082004>Scott,
<SPAN
class=531303020-10082004>
I'm sure you've
checked but make sure the tank isn't hanging up an any of the spar rivets.
Some of the spar rivets fall REAL close to the tank baffle. You may have
to stick an inspection mirror in somewhere to peek.
<SPAN
class=531303020-10082004>
I assume the inboard
z-bracket isn't sitting all the way down on the spar flange and that whatever is
hanging up is preventing this?
<!-- Converted from text/rtf format --><FONT
face=Arial>
Matthew
Brandes,
<FONT face=Arial
size=2>Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
<FONT face=Arial
size=2>
<FONT face=Arial
size=2>EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
<FONT face=Arial
size=2><A
/">www.n523rv.com
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Servo Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Trutrak has a list of required hardware. For some reason they do not
send it with the kit but I asked for and received the list.
In any case, they specify AN3 bolts with drilled heads, which can then
be safety wired, for mounting the servo to the brackets.
Dick Tasker
Steve&Anita Nyman wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve&Anita Nyman" <nyman@bellsouth.net>
>
>I'm installing the roll servo in the right wing of my 7 and was curious what others
used for hardware to mount the servo to the bracket that replaces the lower
bellcrank bracket. The attach holes in the servo are threaded for an AN3
bolt or an AN509-10 screw. I was thinking one of those with a lock washer and
Loctite, or maybe a long enough screw to go all the way through the servo housing
and put a lock nut on it.
>
>Thanks
>Steve
>7QB
>MEM
>
>
>
>
Message 44
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--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
Sorry to bring this up....I did look around the archives.
Has anyone made an upgrade?
Built the plane then made the switch from Fixed pitch to constant speed?
That would be a great way to compare.
I have a RV-4 with a Hartsell. It has plenty of wow on takeoff. I find that
at 500 feet agl I pull the power back and set the prop to the rpm I want.
Set it and forget it. The -6 I trained in had a fixed pitch and it had
enough wow at take off. Am I missing something here? With 190 hp
0-360 I figure I should have all the wow that is needed and cruise should
not be an issue on a -8. Anyone have any views or thoughts??
I am trying to decide if I want to spend the extra $$ for a new hartsell
for my -8. I promissed myself I would not cut corners but an Extra
$4500 for the first 500 feet AGL seems a bit much.
TIA
RV-4
RV-8 tail
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
Message 45
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--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
Has anyone made an upgrade?
Built the plane then made the switch from Fixed pitch to constant speed?
That would be a great way to compare.
I have a RV-4 with a Hartsell. It has plenty of wow on takeoff. I find that
at 500 feet agl I pull the power back and set the prop to the rpm I want.
Set it and forget it. The -6 I trained in had a fixed pitch and it had
enough wow at take off. Am I missing something here? With 190 hp
0-360 I figure I should have all the wow that is needed and cruise should
not be an issue on a -8. Anyone have any views or thoughts??
I am trying to decide if I want to spend the extra $$ for a new hartsell
for my -8. I promissed myself I would not cut corners but an Extra
$4500 for the first 500 feet AGL seems a bit much.
TIA
RV-4
RV-8 tail
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
Message 46
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
I have a few rudder installation issues on my RV-6A. First there is the aft
fuselage skin overlap, I left it fairly long and made some smooth cutouts
where the rudder bottom leading edge would touch it when the rudder is
deflected. From other RVs I've seen most people cut it straight down pretty
close to the aft bulkhead leaving quite a gap there. Any reason for this or
is everyone just cutting it close as a painless exercise?
Also, on the RV-6A there is the tie down bracket mounted on the aft bulkhead
right in front of the fiberglass rudder bottom leading edge. With the rudder
adjusted out from the vertical stab as specified on Van's plans and the tie
down bracket ground down close to the weld, the rudder bottom won't allow
the rudder to inserted far enough in to get the hinge bolts in. What's the
fix for this? Is everyone just adjusting the hiem bearings out from the
rudder to increase the gap? Or are you cutting the leading edge off the
bottom fairing and making it shorter? Or something else?
One last thing, I will be installing a combination aft position light strobe
light in the rudder bottom. I need a hole for the fat strobe wire and a
smaller hole for small power and ground wires to the light. Where is the
best place to put these holes, above the bottom hinge bracket, below the
bottom hinge bracket, some other place? Should I use one large hole or a
large hole and a small hole? I need to make a slot in the rudder bottom to
allow for rudder deflection I assume?! Any suggestions? Thanks for
entertaining this anal slow builder.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
TMX-360 waiting for install
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