Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:01 AM - Matco Parking brake Lock-up? (Todd Bartrim)
2. 12:34 AM - Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? (linn walters)
3. 12:55 AM - Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? (Todd Bartrim)
4. 05:26 AM - Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? (cgalley)
5. 05:32 AM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (cgalley)
6. 06:30 AM - Re: insurance (Shemp)
7. 06:40 AM - Re: TruTrak Servo Hardware (Shemp)
8. 06:46 AM - Re: CS vs FP props (Doug Rozendaal)
9. 06:48 AM - Fuel Servo problem (Glen Matejcek)
10. 06:52 AM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (Shemp)
11. 06:58 AM - Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 (sjhdcl@kingston.net)
12. 07:01 AM - facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction (SportAV8R@aol.com)
13. 07:06 AM - Re: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 (Shemp)
14. 07:19 AM - Re: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 (Scott Bilinski)
15. 07:30 AM - RV6-A Plenum Question (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
16. 07:43 AM - Re: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 (Richard Bibb)
17. 07:57 AM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (Monty Barrett)
18. 07:59 AM - Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
19. 08:04 AM - Re: TruTrak Servo Hardware (Steve&Anita Nyman)
20. 08:06 AM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (Greg Young)
21. 08:14 AM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
22. 08:17 AM - Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction (Tim Bryan)
23. 08:20 AM - Re: RV6-A Plenum Question (Ross Mickey)
24. 08:27 AM - Re: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 (Phil Birkelbach)
25. 08:28 AM - Fw: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
26. 08:31 AM - Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction (Sam Buchanan)
27. 08:31 AM - Re: RV6-A Plenum Question (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
28. 08:32 AM - Re: CS vs FP props (Tim Bryan)
29. 08:39 AM - Re: RV6-A Plenum Question (Jeff Point)
30. 08:48 AM - Re: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 (Dan Checkoway)
31. 08:55 AM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (cgalley)
32. 09:26 AM - Re: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 (Scott Bilinski)
33. 09:27 AM - Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
34. 09:36 AM - RV-7A newbie questions ()
35. 09:48 AM - Rudder issues (Charles E. Brame)
36. 09:49 AM - Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel pro (czechsix@juno.com)
37. 09:51 AM - Re: CS vs FP props (czechsix@juno.com)
38. 09:53 AM - Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 (czechsix@juno.com)
39. 10:31 AM - Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction (Randy Lervold)
40. 10:46 AM - Re: Rudder issues (Trainnut01@aol.com)
41. 10:46 AM - Re: RV-7A newbie questions (Phil Birkelbach)
42. 10:58 AM - Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction (Gary Zilik)
43. 11:09 AM - Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? (Neil McLeod)
44. 11:24 AM - Talking about LED position lights and Strobes... (Amit Dagan)
45. 11:24 AM - Reassembly at the airport (Mickey Coggins)
46. 11:41 AM - Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction (JOHN STARN)
47. 11:48 AM - Re: CS vs FP props (Doug Rozendaal)
48. 12:07 PM - Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction (SportAV8R@aol.com)
49. 12:23 PM - Re: CS vs FP props (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
50. 01:15 PM - Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel (Terry Mortimore)
51. 01:24 PM - Re: Labeling wiring (Terry Mortimore)
52. 01:30 PM - Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
53. 01:42 PM - Re: RV6-A Plenum Question (LarryRobertHelming)
54. 02:12 PM - Re: Reassembly at the airport (Ed Anderson)
55. 02:14 PM - Re: Reassembly at the airport (Kyle Boatright)
56. 02:30 PM - Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? (Neil McLeod)
57. 02:38 PM - Re: Reassembly at the airport (Scott Bilinski)
58. 03:09 PM - Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 (Scott.Fink@microchip.com)
59. 03:36 PM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (Greg Young)
60. 03:48 PM - Starter Interruption (David Schaefer)
61. 04:28 PM - Re: Starter Interruption (Richard Bibb)
62. 04:30 PM - Re: Starter Interruption (James E. Clark)
63. 05:05 PM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (Alex Peterson)
64. 05:15 PM - Re: Starter Interruption (Gert)
65. 05:23 PM - Re: RV6-A Plenum Question (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
66. 05:50 PM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (Larry Bowen)
67. 06:08 PM - Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction (James Ashford)
68. 06:15 PM - New RV-7A Construction log site... (Matt Johnson)
69. 06:17 PM - Rudder issues. (Emrath)
70. 06:22 PM - Re: Reassembly at the airport (Dean Pichon)
71. 07:15 PM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (Harvey Sigmon)
72. 07:15 PM - Re: New RV-7A Construction log site... (not processed: message from valid local sender) (Kathleen (rv7))
73. 07:23 PM - Re: Fuel Servo problem (linn walters)
74. 08:18 PM - Metal Polish/Cleaner? (Larry Bowen)
75. 09:00 PM - Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction (Charlie Kuss)
76. 09:39 PM - Thanks. (Dean Psiropoulos)
77. 10:14 PM - RV traveling to PNW (Kenneth Cantrell)
78. 10:38 PM - Cherry Max rivet question (Karie Daniel)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
Hi All;
I have the Matco parking brake sold by Van's on my RV-9a and have a real
problem with it that I can't find in the archives. When I use it for parking
I apply full brake pressure then close the parking valve and it holds very
well. However when I open the valve to release the brakes, it almost always
leaves me with at least one locked brake and sometimes both. I have ensured
that the valve is in the open position, but the only way to get the brake to
release is to remove the wheel pant and crack the bleed valve. 2 drops of
fluid is enough to bleed and it will free the brake completely and brake
operation will be normal. I had this problem right from first use last year,
but I really haven't needed it at all in the months since so I'd forgotten
about it, but lately I've had occasion to use it a few times and I must say
it is very annoying to pull the wheel pant to fix it... especially the last
time as I was foolishly only equipped with a Leatherman!
Anybody else experience this? Any suggestions?
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Todd Bartrim wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
>
>Hi All;
> I have the Matco parking brake sold by Van's on my RV-9a and have a real
>problem with it that I can't find in the archives. When I use it for parking
>I apply full brake pressure then close the parking valve and it holds very
>well. However when I open the valve to release the brakes, it almost always
>leaves me with at least one locked brake and sometimes both. I have ensured
>that the valve is in the open position, but the only way to get the brake to
>release is to remove the wheel pant and crack the bleed valve. 2 drops of
>fluid is enough to bleed and it will free the brake completely and brake
>operation will be normal. I had this problem right from first use last year,
>but I really haven't needed it at all in the months since so I'd forgotten
>about it, but lately I've had occasion to use it a few times and I must say
>it is very annoying to pull the wheel pant to fix it... especially the last
>time as I was foolishly only equipped with a Leatherman!
> Anybody else experience this? Any suggestions?
>
I haven't a clue as to how the valve is plumbed in your bird, so this is
a real SWAG! The next time it locks up, try and pull the brake pedal
back. The valve in the brake cylinder may be closed off preventing
fluid from flowing back through the cylinder.
Best of luck, Linn
>
>Todd Bartrim
>
>RV9Endurance
>13B Turbo Rotary
>C-FSTB
>http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
>work and determination to the things they do."
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
I haven't a clue as to how the valve is plumbed in your bird, so this is
a real SWAG!
Pretty much the same as everybody else.
The next time it locks up, try and pull the brake pedal
back. The valve in the brake cylinder may be closed off preventing
fluid from flowing back through the cylinder.
Best of luck, Linn
Tried that... no luck
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Have a couple of friends that were flying to Alaska in a 125 hour old Maule
this summer. Used the parking brake. Took off OK but one brake was still
locked on landing. Wiped out the gear, one wing, 3 bladed prop. Fortunately
the $45,000 repair is covered by insurance as they are now looking at more
things.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
Subject: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
>
> Hi All;
> I have the Matco parking brake sold by Van's on my RV-9a and have a
real
> problem with it that I can't find in the archives. When I use it for
parking
> I apply full brake pressure then close the parking valve and it holds very
> well. However when I open the valve to release the brakes, it almost
always
> leaves me with at least one locked brake and sometimes both. I have
ensured
> that the valve is in the open position, but the only way to get the brake
to
> release is to remove the wheel pant and crack the bleed valve. 2 drops of
> fluid is enough to bleed and it will free the brake completely and brake
> operation will be normal. I had this problem right from first use last
year,
> but I really haven't needed it at all in the months since so I'd forgotten
> about it, but lately I've had occasion to use it a few times and I must
say
> it is very annoying to pull the wheel pant to fix it... especially the
last
> time as I was foolishly only equipped with a Leatherman!
> Anybody else experience this? Any suggestions?
>
> Todd Bartrim
>
> RV9Endurance
> 13B Turbo Rotary
> C-FSTB
> http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
> work and determination to the things they do."
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I believe these are your words..
> For 30 minutes I had a glorious flight and was the happiest man in the
air.
> Returning to Hooks, when I turned on the boost pump the engine went rough.
> After trying various combinations of boost on/off and leaning I thought
the
> engine was running smooth and planned for a high speed approach
Am I wrong?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
>
> Cy, your recollection of my accident is incorrect. In fact, my boost pump
> was OFF on landing precisely because of symptoms similar to those Andre
> described. The engine ran fine until I pulled the power on base. Airflow
> Performance recommends the boost be ON for takeoff and landing as does
> Lycoming for their Bendix injected engines. I turned it off because my
> mixture went over-rich when I turned the boost on for approach. I still
> don't have a definitive cause of the engine failure but my working theory
is
> that the boost being off was a contributing event in a chain leading to
> vapor lock.
>
> Andre, your symptoms sound like what I experienced in flight and I implore
> you not to fly until you resolve the problem. Have you tried leaning it
when
> the boost is on? That would confirm an over-rich condition like I
> experienced. I can't offer any suggestions other than to resolve it on the
> ground. I would be very interested in anything you find, it may answer
some
> questions for me. Even if you have a Bendix system, the AFP was based on
the
> Bendix design so any findings would probably apply.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
> Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> > standby for when the engine pump fails.
> >
> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs
> > Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Berthet, Andre G" <andre.g.berthet@intel.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Berthet, Andre G"
> > <andre.g.berthet@intel.com>
> > >
> > > I have an IO-360-A1A and have a strange problem. When the
> > engine is hot,
> > > turning the booster pump ON will results in a substantial
> > drop of RPM.
> > > Let say if I set my engine speed to 1300 RPM and then turn
> > the booster
> > > ON, the engine speed will decrease by about 500 RPM. Of
> > course if I do
> > > that at a normal idling of 700 RPM, the engine just quit.
> > My servo has
> > > been overhauled in January, re-inspected in June and I'm
> > sending it back
> > > again. The flow divider and the fuel nozzles have been
> > overhauled last
> > > June too. Also the idling speed is changing depending if
> > the engine is
> > > hot or cold. My mixture is adjusted for a 25 RPM rise at ICO.
> > >
> > > My engine driven pump alone produces 23 PSI of fuel
> > pressure, and when
> > > the booster pump is turned ON it increases the pressure to 28 PSI.
> > >
> > > Could anyone have suggestions how to fix this problem?
> > >
> > > Andre
> > >
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Nationair
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
Subject: RV-List: insurance
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
>
> Who you guys using for insurance? Best quote I can get is $1,700 a year.
> Chuck
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Servo Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
That's a good idea. I ended up using a little loctite per my conversation
with the factory rep but should have done what you did. Dont need anything
coming loose back there!!!!
shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: <N67BT@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: TruTrak Servo Hardware
> --> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
>
>
> On my Altrak servo (same as the roll servo) I drilled out the threads and
> put AN bolts clear through with washers and lock nuts. This will also
safety
> the small socket head screws nearby. I plan to do the same with the roll
> servo.
>
> Bob Trumpfheller
>
>
> In a message dated 8/10/2004 5:50:24 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> nyman@bellsouth.net writes:
>
> I'm installing the roll servo in the right wing of my 7 and was curious
what
> others used for hardware to mount the servo to the bracket that replaces
the
> lower bellcrank bracket. The attach holes in the servo are threaded for
an
> AN3 bolt or an AN509-10 screw. I was thinking one of those with a lock
> washer and Loctite, or maybe a long enough screw to go all the way
through the
> servo housing and put a lock nut on it.
>
> Thanks
> Steve
> 7QB
> MEM
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: CS vs FP props |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I had a wood FP on my first RV-4 and I wanted a C/S for the following
reasons.
1. Rain, I needed a metal prop of some sort for IFR.
2. Acro, with a metal FP, rpm overspeed is really critical and I did not
want to live in fear of the propeller coming apart.
3. Formation, The C/S has both, better power response, and better braking
for formation flying.
4. T/O climb performance. The C/S wins big here, much longer vertical
lines.
5.Lower cruise RPM, The C/S allows me to cruise at a much lower rpm which
is quieter and saves fuel. At 12,000 ft, 2300 and 2400 rpm yields the same
speed and 2500 rpm is slower, but the fuel flow changes dramatically with
decreasing rpms. 2100 rpms up high and I can get some amazing miles per
gallon numbers.
6. Weight, The only time weight is a good thing in an airplane, but I
wanted to be able to put a fat guy in the back seat of my -4. My wood prop
airplane was pretty spooky with a heavy guy in back.
That was the thought process I used, and I am really happy. I would hate to
go back to a F/P of any sort. Your results may differ......
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
Message 9
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| Subject: | Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi All-
What great timing- another forum I sat in on at OSH was about the RSA
injection systems and was put on by Precision (Bendix). They stated point
blank that the RSA fuel servo has its own regulator built in and that pump
output pressure has no effect on fuel flow, as long as the servo inlet
pressure is within the specified limits. Therefore, if the application in
question has a Bendix / Precision RSA injector and engine stumbles / fails
when the boost pump is activated, it would seem that either the pump output
is way too high or there is a problem with the injection system, most
likely the fuel pressure regulator. I'd sure get it checked...
Glen
Time: 10:15:34 AM PST US
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I have a Bendix injector and when I turn on the b.p., the engine rpm drops
for a half second, then comes back up to normal. I see a surge on my fuel
pressure gauge but then it returns to normal. I dont feel any change at
above idle settings.
Shemp
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Speaking of Bendix injectors, I was speaking with one of the factory reps at
Oshkosh concerning the cd they gave me for maintaing the RSA fuel injection
system. One of the topics on the cd is what to do if you get run on during
shut down. The cd says this is due to a servo problem. I just had my
servo and distributor rebuilt 100 hours ago. It only runs on when the
engine and oat are hot. Im having a hard time accepting the fact that the
servo isnt working properly. Has anyone else had this situation?
Thanks
Shemp (Jeff Dowling)
RV-6a/ 100 hours
Chicago/ Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
>
> Cy, your recollection of my accident is incorrect. In fact, my boost pump
> was OFF on landing precisely because of symptoms similar to those Andre
> described. The engine ran fine until I pulled the power on base. Airflow
> Performance recommends the boost be ON for takeoff and landing as does
> Lycoming for their Bendix injected engines. I turned it off because my
> mixture went over-rich when I turned the boost on for approach. I still
> don't have a definitive cause of the engine failure but my working theory
is
> that the boost being off was a contributing event in a chain leading to
> vapor lock.
>
> Andre, your symptoms sound like what I experienced in flight and I implore
> you not to fly until you resolve the problem. Have you tried leaning it
when
> the boost is on? That would confirm an over-rich condition like I
> experienced. I can't offer any suggestions other than to resolve it on the
> ground. I would be very interested in anything you find, it may answer
some
> questions for me. Even if you have a Bendix system, the AFP was based on
the
> Bendix design so any findings would probably apply.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
> Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> > standby for when the engine pump fails.
> >
> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs
> > Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Berthet, Andre G" <andre.g.berthet@intel.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Berthet, Andre G"
> > <andre.g.berthet@intel.com>
> > >
> > > I have an IO-360-A1A and have a strange problem. When the
> > engine is hot,
> > > turning the booster pump ON will results in a substantial
> > drop of RPM.
> > > Let say if I set my engine speed to 1300 RPM and then turn
> > the booster
> > > ON, the engine speed will decrease by about 500 RPM. Of
> > course if I do
> > > that at a normal idling of 700 RPM, the engine just quit.
> > My servo has
> > > been overhauled in January, re-inspected in June and I'm
> > sending it back
> > > again. The flow divider and the fuel nozzles have been
> > overhauled last
> > > June too. Also the idling speed is changing depending if
> > the engine is
> > > hot or cold. My mixture is adjusted for a 25 RPM rise at ICO.
> > >
> > > My engine driven pump alone produces 23 PSI of fuel
> > pressure, and when
> > > the booster pump is turned ON it increases the pressure to 28 PSI.
> > >
> > > Could anyone have suggestions how to fix this problem?
> > >
> > > Andre
> > >
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 |
--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
Anybody know where to find AN470AD3-3.5.
I've tried B&B Aircraft Supply (they carry several 1/2 size rivets) but no
luck.
Steve
RV7A #2
Message 12
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| Subject: | facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Question for you fellows:
Last weekend, my Facet didn't sound right on start-up (carbureted O-320 with electric
solenoid primer) and the engine behaved as if it had received no primer
shot, though I gave it the usual "4-count" on the primer button. The usual loud
clacking of the fuel boost pump was not present; instead there was a muted
clicking... a few light taps on the body of the pump with a mallet restored the
familiar noise, along with a rise in fuel pressure from 1 to 2 psig (normal
reading is 4 or 5 psig). The engine then started normally and fuel pressure
was 4 psi with or without the boost pump (normal readings, BTW). The round trip
flight to Cleveland was completed without incident, and the pump sounded and
behaved normally on this and a subsequent flight (to Dean Meylor's beautiful
home airstrip, 9NC9).
I'm wondering if I should be concerned by this recent "hiccup" in pump operation...
is it the beginning of the end for my electric pump? Could it foreshadow
a dangerous fuel line stoppage condition?
Just curious how "pre-emptive" I need to be in this situation.
-Bill B / "Stormy"
RV-6A - 410 hrs
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Did u try Vans?
shemp
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5
> --> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
>
> Anybody know where to find AN470AD3-3.5.
>
> I've tried B&B Aircraft Supply (they carry several 1/2 size rivets) but no
> luck.
>
> Steve
> RV7A #2
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
You dont have the rivet cut tool in your tool kit? It basically shears off
the unwanted length.
At 09:58 AM 8/11/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
>
>Anybody know where to find AN470AD3-3.5.
>
>I've tried B&B Aircraft Supply (they carry several 1/2 size rivets) but no
>luck.
>
>Steve
>RV7A #2
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 15
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| Subject: | RV6-A Plenum Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
List,
For the builders who have installed a plenum to cool their engines have
you needed to install Van's upper cowl cooling ramps?
I can't see why they would be of any value with the Plenum Conversion and
might just be in the way?
Thanks for any help, Tom in Ohio
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Bibb" <rebibb@comcast.net>
They are a standard size in the RV-4 kit so I know Van's has them....
----- Original Message -----
From: <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5
> --> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
>
> Anybody know where to find AN470AD3-3.5.
>
> I've tried B&B Aircraft Supply (they carry several 1/2 size rivets) but no
> luck.
>
> Steve
> RV7A #2
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Monty Barrett" <bpa@bpaengines.com>
The usual cause of " Run on " or after firing is a small leakage past the
idle valve when in idle cutoff. The smallest grain of grit will scar the 2
Plates that rotate to close off an orfice when in ICO and this will allow
enough fuel to after fire.
I suggest:
1. check your mixture cable rigging to make sure you are at ICO
2. make sure the boost pump is OFF at shutdown.
3. If after firing is a nuisance to you, after the mixture is in
ICO,
open the throttle and it should quit. Make sure the brakes work
stick full back if you open the throttle.
4. Normal procedure at servo overhaul is to lap the 2 plates so that
they are perfectly smooth with no scratches.
I saw a thread about boost pump on changing the speed momentarily. I would
consider this to be normal.
Monty Barrett
Barrett Performance Aircraft, Inc.
FAA-CRS XBTR929K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shemp
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Speaking of Bendix injectors, I was speaking with one of the factory reps at
Oshkosh concerning the cd they gave me for maintaing the RSA fuel injection
system. One of the topics on the cd is what to do if you get run on during
shut down. The cd says this is due to a servo problem. I just had my
servo and distributor rebuilt 100 hours ago. It only runs on when the
engine and oat are hot. Im having a hard time accepting the fact that the
servo isnt working properly. Has anyone else had this situation?
Thanks
Shemp (Jeff Dowling)
RV-6a/ 100 hours
Chicago/ Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
>
> Cy, your recollection of my accident is incorrect. In fact, my boost pump
> was OFF on landing precisely because of symptoms similar to those Andre
> described. The engine ran fine until I pulled the power on base. Airflow
> Performance recommends the boost be ON for takeoff and landing as does
> Lycoming for their Bendix injected engines. I turned it off because my
> mixture went over-rich when I turned the boost on for approach. I still
> don't have a definitive cause of the engine failure but my working theory
is
> that the boost being off was a contributing event in a chain leading to
> vapor lock.
>
> Andre, your symptoms sound like what I experienced in flight and I implore
> you not to fly until you resolve the problem. Have you tried leaning it
when
> the boost is on? That would confirm an over-rich condition like I
> experienced. I can't offer any suggestions other than to resolve it on the
> ground. I would be very interested in anything you find, it may answer
some
> questions for me. Even if you have a Bendix system, the AFP was based on
the
> Bendix design so any findings would probably apply.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
> Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> > standby for when the engine pump fails.
> >
> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs
> > Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Berthet, Andre G" <andre.g.berthet@intel.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Berthet, Andre G"
> > <andre.g.berthet@intel.com>
> > >
> > > I have an IO-360-A1A and have a strange problem. When the
> > engine is hot,
> > > turning the booster pump ON will results in a substantial
> > drop of RPM.
> > > Let say if I set my engine speed to 1300 RPM and then turn
> > the booster
> > > ON, the engine speed will decrease by about 500 RPM. Of
> > course if I do
> > > that at a normal idling of 700 RPM, the engine just quit.
> > My servo has
> > > been overhauled in January, re-inspected in June and I'm
> > sending it back
> > > again. The flow divider and the fuel nozzles have been
> > overhauled last
> > > June too. Also the idling speed is changing depending if
> > the engine is
> > > hot or cold. My mixture is adjusted for a 25 RPM rise at ICO.
> > >
> > > My engine driven pump alone produces 23 PSI of fuel
> > pressure, and when
> > > the booster pump is turned ON it increases the pressure to 28 PSI.
> > >
> > > Could anyone have suggestions how to fix this problem?
> > >
> > > Andre
> > >
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
Todd:
I also equipped my 6 with the same valve, thinking it would stop calf
cramps in my three teenage daughters holding the brakes during runups.
My valve behaves just like yours, which is annoying. I suspect that two
things are at play here, and there is a way to get it to release without
the need to shutdown or egress.
I think that either the internal design of the valve, or the mechanical
advantage of the valve lever, or even the rigidity of the Bowden cable that
actuates the lever, can't overcome the pressure trapped in the lines once
the parking brakes are set.
With this in mind, the way to reduce the load on the valve is to apply and
hold pressure with the toe brakes, then move the valve to the off position.
It takes a few tries to get it to work, usually only one wheel releases
first, before it will roll with only idle power.
My daughter says that it works best if the pressure applied to the toe
brakes is the same and the pressure originally applied, and trapped in, the
brakes lines by the valve being closed.
This makes sense, in effect balancing the pressure on both sides of the
valve, making it easier to move internally.
I did find it so annoying-from the outside, it appears that one is so
stupid they're attempting to taxi with the brakes on and can't figure out
why it won't go anywhere-that I don't use it anymore, but the girls find it
worth the hassle.
I've started to wonder what to do if the valve should accidentally get
closed in flight, though.....
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> Have a couple of friends that were flying to Alaska in a 125 hour old
Maule
> this summer. Used the parking brake. Took off OK but one brake was still
> locked on landing. Wiped out the gear, one wing, 3 bladed prop.
Fortunately
> the $45,000 repair is covered by insurance as they are now looking at more
> things.
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> Safety Programs Editor - TC
> EAA Sport Pilot
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
> To: "RV List (E-mail)" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
> >
> > Hi All;
> > I have the Matco parking brake sold by Van's on my RV-9a and have a
> real
> > problem with it that I can't find in the archives. When I use it for
> parking
> > I apply full brake pressure then close the parking valve and it holds
very
> > well. However when I open the valve to release the brakes, it almost
> always
> > leaves me with at least one locked brake and sometimes both. I have
> ensured
> > that the valve is in the open position, but the only way to get the
brake
> to
> > release is to remove the wheel pant and crack the bleed valve. 2 drops
of
> > fluid is enough to bleed and it will free the brake completely and brake
> > operation will be normal. I had this problem right from first use last
> year,
> > but I really haven't needed it at all in the months since so I'd
forgotten
> > about it, but lately I've had occasion to use it a few times and I must
> say
> > it is very annoying to pull the wheel pant to fix it... especially the
> last
> > time as I was foolishly only equipped with a Leatherman!
> > Anybody else experience this? Any suggestions?
> >
> > Todd Bartrim
> >
> > RV9Endurance
> > 13B Turbo Rotary
> > C-FSTB
> > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> >
> > "The world will always have a place for those that bring
hard
> > work and determination to the things they do."
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: TruTrak Servo Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve&Anita Nyman" <nyman@bellsouth.net>
TruTrak does indeed have a hardware list for there installation. Paul at
TruTrak emailed it to me this morning. Most of it I have, but will have to
order replacements.
Thanks
Steve
7QB
MEM
Message 20
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| Subject: | Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Those are my words but your inference that the boost stayed on is incorrect.
I wrote that two days after the accident and although I've recounted it
numerous time in the last 3 years, I guess back then I wasn't specific in
the <final> configuration. I fell back to what had been working flawlessly
for the 30 minutes prior, i.e. full rich and boost OFF. That followed the
theory that if the last action you took made things worse, then undo it.
Greg
> --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> I believe these are your words..
> > For 30 minutes I had a glorious flight and was the happiest
> man in the
> air.
> > Returning to Hooks, when I turned on the boost pump the
> engine went rough.
> > After trying various combinations of boost on/off and leaning I
> > thought
> the
> > engine was running smooth and planned for a high speed approach
>
> Am I wrong?
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
> >
> > Cy, your recollection of my accident is incorrect. In fact,
> my boost pump
> > was OFF on landing precisely because of symptoms similar to
> those Andre
> > described. The engine ran fine until I pulled the power on
> base. Airflow
> > Performance recommends the boost be ON for takeoff and
> landing as does
> > Lycoming for their Bendix injected engines. I turned it off
> because my
> > mixture went over-rich when I turned the boost on for
> approach. I still
> > don't have a definitive cause of the engine failure but my
> working theory
> is
> > that the boost being off was a contributing event in a
> chain leading to
> > vapor lock.
> >
> > Andre, your symptoms sound like what I experienced in
> flight and I implore
> > you not to fly until you resolve the problem. Have you
> tried leaning it
> when
> > the boost is on? That would confirm an over-rich condition like I
> > experienced. I can't offer any suggestions other than to
> resolve it on the
> > ground. I would be very interested in anything you find, it
> may answer
> some
> > questions for me. Even if you have a Bendix system, the AFP
> was based on
> the
> > Bendix design so any findings would probably apply.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> > RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
> > Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> >
> >
> > >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> > >
> > > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> > > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> > > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> > > standby for when the engine pump fails.
> > >
> > > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs
> > > Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Berthet, Andre G" <andre.g.berthet@intel.com>
> > > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Berthet, Andre G"
> > > <andre.g.berthet@intel.com>
> > > >
> > > > I have an IO-360-A1A and have a strange problem. When the
> > > engine is hot,
> > > > turning the booster pump ON will results in a substantial
> > > drop of RPM.
> > > > Let say if I set my engine speed to 1300 RPM and then turn
> > > the booster
> > > > ON, the engine speed will decrease by about 500 RPM. Of
> > > course if I do
> > > > that at a normal idling of 700 RPM, the engine just quit.
> > > My servo has
> > > > been overhauled in January, re-inspected in June and I'm
> > > sending it back
> > > > again. The flow divider and the fuel nozzles have been
> > > overhauled last
> > > > June too. Also the idling speed is changing depending if
> > > the engine is
> > > > hot or cold. My mixture is adjusted for a 25 RPM rise at ICO.
> > > >
> > > > My engine driven pump alone produces 23 PSI of fuel
> > > pressure, and when
> > > > the booster pump is turned ON it increases the pressure
> to 28 PSI.
> > > >
> > > > Could anyone have suggestions how to fix this problem?
> > > >
> > > > Andre
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
My two cents:
somewhere in the archives should be a previous post describing how larger
aircraft overcome fuel "boiling", caused by warm fuel lifted quickly to a
high altitude before it has time to cool. The result is bubbles in the fuel
line, minimized by having a pump at the supply source, in the tank.
Large airliners sometimes have a gravity-feeding max altitude table, to use
in case of massive electrical problems that depower the tank pumps. The
table is divided into two depending on how long the aircraft has been at
altitude, if not for very long, an immediate descent into the mid-teens is
necessary.
Scott in Vancouver----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Dan, why the pump when switching tanks?
> >
>
>
> Alex,
>
> Many low wing aircraft flight manuals call for boost pumps on while
> switching tanks. This is especially important in higher altitude
airplanes.
> Between the vapor pressure of the fuel and the low ambient air pressure,
> switching tanks can get interesting.
>
> At sea level, you have 14.7 psi available to replace the fuel consumed by
> the engine, but at 18,000 it is less than half of that. Throw in the
vapor
> pressure of the fuel and getting fuel to the pump can be a big deal. Many
> high altitude airplanes have the electric boost pump built in the tank.
> Some have small boost pumps in the tank that run all the time to feed the
> engine driven or primary electric boost pumps.
>
> Many turbine airplanes have jet (or venturi) pumps that are powered by the
> return fuel that feeds fuel to the engine driven fuel pump much like a two
> pipe well pump system on a farm.
>
> In the B-25 the fuel pressure will start to jump around above 10,000 feet
in
> the summertime. We have a low setting on the electric pumps that we use
to
> smooth it out.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer@improvementteam.com>
Stormy,
If you had to tap the pump to get it going, You are not getting a rise in
pressure with it running over the engine pump, and not seeing your normal
pressure on the guage... Then you need to address this NOW!
My feeling is that you are now test flying your airplane as it is not in the
same condition as previously tested and flown.
Don't rule out a problem with the engine pump or the wiring but sounds like
a boost pump problem
Just my .02 worth.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Question for you fellows:
Last weekend, my Facet didn't sound right on start-up (carbureted O-320 with
electric solenoid primer) and the engine behaved as if it had received no
primer shot, though I gave it the usual "4-count" on the primer button. The
usual loud clacking of the fuel boost pump was not present; instead there
was a muted clicking... a few light taps on the body of the pump with a
mallet restored the familiar noise, along with a rise in fuel pressure from
1 to 2 psig (normal reading is 4 or 5 psig). The engine then started
normally and fuel pressure was 4 psi with or without the boost pump (normal
readings, BTW). The round trip flight to Cleveland was completed without
incident, and the pump sounded and behaved normally on this and a subsequent
flight (to Dean Meylor's beautiful home airstrip, 9NC9).
I'm wondering if I should be concerned by this recent "hiccup" in pump
operation... is it the beginning of the end for my electric pump? Could it
foreshadow a dangerous fuel line stoppage condition?
Just curious how "pre-emptive" I need to be in this situation.
-Bill B / "Stormy"
RV-6A - 410 hrs
Message 23
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| Subject: | RV6-A Plenum Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin
List,
For the builders who have installed a plenum to cool their
engines have you needed to install Van's upper cowl cooling ramps?
I can't see why they would be of any value with the Plenum
Conversion and might just be in the way?
Thanks for any help, Tom in Ohio
Tom,
This depends on your plenum. I built my own. All I did was cover the
baffles with a custom cut/bent piece of aluminum sheet that is held in
place with hinge pins and a few screws in front. I am using the
standard air intake ducts. I made my plenum to fit the standard cowl
and baffle setup.
Ross Mickey
RV6A
N9PT
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
Here is a link to Wicks. They are listed as MS20470 instead of AN470
but they should be the same thing.
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=2182/index.html
Just curious, where you are using such a small universal head rivet in
your RV-7A? There were a few times when I wanted to just use a small UH
rivet but it always seemed easier to just go ahead and dimple the thing
than to worry about ordering and waiting.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
sjhdcl@kingston.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
>
>Anybody know where to find AN470AD3-3.5.
>
>I've tried B&B Aircraft Supply (they carry several 1/2 size rivets) but no
>luck.
>
>Steve
>RV7A #2
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
> Todd:
> I also equipped my 6 with the same valve, thinking it would stop calf
> cramps in my three teenage daughters holding the brakes during runups.
> My valve behaves just like yours, which is annoying. I suspect that two
> things are at play here, and there is a way to get it to release without
> the need to shutdown or egress.
> I think that either the internal design of the valve, or the mechanical
> advantage of the valve lever, or even the rigidity of the Bowden cable
that
> actuates the lever, can't overcome the pressure trapped in the lines once
> the parking brakes are set.
> With this in mind, the way to reduce the load on the valve is to apply
and
> hold pressure with the toe brakes, then move the valve to the off
position.
> It takes a few tries to get it to work, usually only one wheel releases
> first, before it will roll with only idle power.
> My daughter says that it works best if the pressure applied to the toe
> brakes is the same and the pressure originally applied, and trapped in,
the
> brakes lines by the valve being closed.
> This makes sense, in effect balancing the pressure on both sides of the
> valve, making it easier to move internally.
> I did find it so annoying-from the outside, it appears that one is so
> stupid they're attempting to taxi with the brakes on and can't figure out
> why it won't go anywhere-that I don't use it anymore, but the girls find
it
> worth the hassle.
> I've started to wonder what to do if the valve should accidentally get
> closed in flight, though.....
>
> Scott in Vancouver
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 5:26 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> > Have a couple of friends that were flying to Alaska in a 125 hour old
> Maule
> > this summer. Used the parking brake. Took off OK but one brake was
still
> > locked on landing. Wiped out the gear, one wing, 3 bladed prop.
> Fortunately
> > the $45,000 repair is covered by insurance as they are now looking at
more
> > things.
> >
> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> > Safety Programs Editor - TC
> > EAA Sport Pilot
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
> > To: "RV List (E-mail)" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
> > >
> > > Hi All;
> > > I have the Matco parking brake sold by Van's on my RV-9a and have
a
> > real
> > > problem with it that I can't find in the archives. When I use it for
> > parking
> > > I apply full brake pressure then close the parking valve and it holds
> very
> > > well. However when I open the valve to release the brakes, it almost
> > always
> > > leaves me with at least one locked brake and sometimes both. I have
> > ensured
> > > that the valve is in the open position, but the only way to get the
> brake
> > to
> > > release is to remove the wheel pant and crack the bleed valve. 2 drops
> of
> > > fluid is enough to bleed and it will free the brake completely and
brake
> > > operation will be normal. I had this problem right from first use last
> > year,
> > > but I really haven't needed it at all in the months since so I'd
> forgotten
> > > about it, but lately I've had occasion to use it a few times and I
must
> > say
> > > it is very annoying to pull the wheel pant to fix it... especially the
> > last
> > > time as I was foolishly only equipped with a Leatherman!
> > > Anybody else experience this? Any suggestions?
> > >
> > > Todd Bartrim
> > >
> > > RV9Endurance
> > > 13B Turbo Rotary
> > > C-FSTB
> > > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> > >
> > > "The world will always have a place for those that bring
> hard
> > > work and determination to the things they do."
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
SportAV8R@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
> Question for you fellows:
>
> Last weekend, my Facet didn't sound right on start-up (carbureted
> O-320 with electric solenoid primer) and the engine behaved as if it
> had received no primer shot, though I gave it the usual "4-count" on
> the primer button. The usual loud clacking of the fuel boost pump
> was not present; instead there was a muted clicking... a few light
> taps on the body of the pump with a mallet restored the familiar
> noise, along with a rise in fuel pressure from 1 to 2 psig (normal
> reading is 4 or 5 psig). The engine then started normally and fuel
> pressure was 4 psi with or without the boost pump (normal readings,
> BTW). The round trip flight to Cleveland was completed without
> incident, and the pump sounded and behaved normally on this and a
> subsequent flight (to Dean Meylor's beautiful home airstrip, 9NC9).
>
> I'm wondering if I should be concerned by this recent "hiccup" in
> pump operation... is it the beginning of the end for my electric
> pump? Could it foreshadow a dangerous fuel line stoppage condition?
>
> Just curious how "pre-emptive" I need to be in this situation.
>
> -Bill B / "Stormy" RV-6A - 410 hrs
Less than $40.00 will put this question to bed:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1092238105-152-264&browse=engines&product=pump-carb
Just replace the pump instead of worrying about it. :-)
Sam Buchanan
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: RV6-A Plenum Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
My plenum top is just a large sheet of .032. At the front, it has ears of
baffle sealing material at the vertical sides, and about a six-inch-wide
"finger" of .032 extending forward across the top of the cowl inlets, which
spring up against the inlet ramps, protected against chafing with UHMW tape
left over from the flaps.
SCott in VAncouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6-A Plenum Question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom & Cathy Ervin
>
> List,
> For the builders who have installed a plenum to cool their
> engines have you needed to install Van's upper cowl cooling ramps?
> I can't see why they would be of any value with the Plenum
> Conversion and might just be in the way?
>
> Thanks for any help, Tom in Ohio
>
> Tom,
>
> This depends on your plenum. I built my own. All I did was cover the
> baffles with a custom cut/bent piece of aluminum sheet that is held in
> place with hinge pins and a few screws in front. I am using the
> standard air intake ducts. I made my plenum to fit the standard cowl
> and baffle setup.
>
> Ross Mickey
> RV6A
> N9PT
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: CS vs FP props |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer@improvementteam.com>
Great post Doug,
I am not flying mine yet but another plus I thought of was descent speed. I
had a C-170 with 0360 Lyc and constant speed equipped. With the constant
speed prop I could just trim down and keep my speeds up for the last miles
of the trip. With the FP I had to begin to slow down also to keep from over
RPM. It kind of made up for the slower climb out speeds to get it back at
the other end.
Not sure if this is a factor in the RV but I would think so.
Tim Bryan RV-6
0-360 and CS prop
Will fly this year
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: CS vs FP props
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I had a wood FP on my first RV-4 and I wanted a C/S for the following
reasons.
1. Rain, I needed a metal prop of some sort for IFR.
2. Acro, with a metal FP, rpm overspeed is really critical and I did not
want to live in fear of the propeller coming apart.
3. Formation, The C/S has both, better power response, and better braking
for formation flying.
4. T/O climb performance. The C/S wins big here, much longer vertical
lines.
5.Lower cruise RPM, The C/S allows me to cruise at a much lower rpm which
is quieter and saves fuel. At 12,000 ft, 2300 and 2400 rpm yields the same
speed and 2500 rpm is slower, but the fuel flow changes dramatically with
decreasing rpms. 2100 rpms up high and I can get some amazing miles per
gallon numbers.
6. Weight, The only time weight is a good thing in an airplane, but I
wanted to be able to put a fat guy in the back seat of my -4. My wood prop
airplane was pretty spooky with a heavy guy in back.
That was the thought process I used, and I am really happy. I would hate to
go back to a F/P of any sort. Your results may differ......
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: RV6-A Plenum Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
On my plenum, I designed the inlets to follow the approximate shape of
the cooling ramps. No need to glass the ramps into the cowl, and they
would be in the way if installed.
Pics at : http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/rv6plenumpics/
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Rivet cutter...
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5
> --> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
>
> Anybody know where to find AN470AD3-3.5.
>
> I've tried B&B Aircraft Supply (they carry several 1/2 size rivets) but no
> luck.
>
> Steve
> RV7A #2
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
The inference that the boost stayed on is incorrect. My source which I
consulted claims that the "over boost" creates turbulence and cavitation in
the engine pump. It takes a little time for everything to come back to
normal. But the chain of events was started by the over boost even though
you removed it, the cavitation (air bubble) stopped the engine.
At least that is what my Mechanic with over 40 years of experience said. He
also said that this was a well known phenomenon.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
>
> Those are my words but your inference that the boost stayed on is
incorrect.
> I wrote that two days after the accident and although I've recounted it
> numerous time in the last 3 years, I guess back then I wasn't specific in
> the <final> configuration. I fell back to what had been working flawlessly
> for the 30 minutes prior, i.e. full rich and boost OFF. That followed the
> theory that if the last action you took made things worse, then undo it.
>
> Greg
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> > I believe these are your words..
> > > For 30 minutes I had a glorious flight and was the happiest
> > man in the
> > air.
> > > Returning to Hooks, when I turned on the boost pump the
> > engine went rough.
> > > After trying various combinations of boost on/off and leaning I
> > > thought
> > the
> > > engine was running smooth and planned for a high speed approach
> >
> > Am I wrong?
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Gregory Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
> > >
> > > Cy, your recollection of my accident is incorrect. In fact,
> > my boost pump
> > > was OFF on landing precisely because of symptoms similar to
> > those Andre
> > > described. The engine ran fine until I pulled the power on
> > base. Airflow
> > > Performance recommends the boost be ON for takeoff and
> > landing as does
> > > Lycoming for their Bendix injected engines. I turned it off
> > because my
> > > mixture went over-rich when I turned the boost on for
> > approach. I still
> > > don't have a definitive cause of the engine failure but my
> > working theory
> > is
> > > that the boost being off was a contributing event in a
> > chain leading to
> > > vapor lock.
> > >
> > > Andre, your symptoms sound like what I experienced in
> > flight and I implore
> > > you not to fly until you resolve the problem. Have you
> > tried leaning it
> > when
> > > the boost is on? That would confirm an over-rich condition like I
> > > experienced. I can't offer any suggestions other than to
> > resolve it on the
> > > ground. I would be very interested in anything you find, it
> > may answer
> > some
> > > questions for me. Even if you have a Bendix system, the AFP
> > was based on
> > the
> > > Bendix design so any findings would probably apply.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> > > RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
> > > Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> > > >
> > > > Don't turn on the pump. We lost a plane that turned the pump
> > > > on during the first flight, killed the engine and could not
> > > > restart because it was flooded. Ask Greg Young. Pump is a
> > > > standby for when the engine pump fails.
> > > >
> > > > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs
> > > > Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Berthet, Andre G" <andre.g.berthet@intel.com>
> > > > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > > Subject: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Berthet, Andre G"
> > > > <andre.g.berthet@intel.com>
> > > > >
> > > > > I have an IO-360-A1A and have a strange problem. When the
> > > > engine is hot,
> > > > > turning the booster pump ON will results in a substantial
> > > > drop of RPM.
> > > > > Let say if I set my engine speed to 1300 RPM and then turn
> > > > the booster
> > > > > ON, the engine speed will decrease by about 500 RPM. Of
> > > > course if I do
> > > > > that at a normal idling of 700 RPM, the engine just quit.
> > > > My servo has
> > > > > been overhauled in January, re-inspected in June and I'm
> > > > sending it back
> > > > > again. The flow divider and the fuel nozzles have been
> > > > overhauled last
> > > > > June too. Also the idling speed is changing depending if
> > > > the engine is
> > > > > hot or cold. My mixture is adjusted for a 25 RPM rise at ICO.
> > > > >
> > > > > My engine driven pump alone produces 23 PSI of fuel
> > > > pressure, and when
> > > > > the booster pump is turned ON it increases the pressure
> > to 28 PSI.
> > > > >
> > > > > Could anyone have suggestions how to fix this problem?
> > > > >
> > > > > Andre
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
You did not get one in your tool kit? I did. Drop the rivet in and adjust
it to the length you need squeeze the handle and there you go, the exact
length you need.
At 08:50 AM 8/11/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Rivet cutter...
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Rivet search AN470AD3-3.5
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
> >
> > Anybody know where to find AN470AD3-3.5.
> >
> > I've tried B&B Aircraft Supply (they carry several 1/2 size rivets) but no
> > luck.
> >
> > Steve
> > RV7A #2
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Dernit, Sam, if he just replaces the pump we won't get to argue about it for
the next few weeks.
73... neal
>Less than $40.00 will put this question to bed:
>Sam Buchanan
Message 34
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| Subject: | RV-7A newbie questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: <dfiggins@es.com>
After reviewing the archives on priming/primers I have determined that
the following is probably the most logical approach to priming/primers
for the RV-7A. I would just like some confirmation that I have
understood the posts correctly:
1. As a minimum need to prime the joined parts (riveted rib flanges etc)
2. As a minimum non-alclad parts need to be primed
3. 2 part epoxy primer seems to be the primer of choice (way back when I
recall we used zinc chromate on everything but I guess this is old hat)
4. Self etch Marhyde spray can is ok for spot priming (csk holes etc)
but is not good enough for general priming/corrosion protection
5. Breathing apparatus is essential when spraying the epoxy primer (can
this stuff be brushed on for small areas?)
The above is a reasonable compromise between corrosion protection and
weight.
Is this a correct interpretation of the archives??
Additionally when referring to scotchbrite wheels do most people use
them in bench grinders or handheld drills or both, I assume the
deburring/polishing version is the one that is used.
Thanks
Dave RV-7A (just starting the empennage kit)
Do not archive
Dave
Message 35
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|
Dean Psiropoulos <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles E. Brame" <charleyb@earthlink.net>
Dean,
Here are my solutions.
I trimmed the aft fuselage skin so that it just clears the rudder at
full deflection. The resulting trailing edge of the fuselage skin is not
a straight line, but it doesn't detract from the appearance at all. I
figured as much fairing as I could get was the best idea. Seems to work okay.
I gave up on Van's standard 6A tie down bracket. I ordered a -7A tie
down bracket, which is an extruded fixture which mounts on the forward
side of the aft bulkhead. The tie down ring screws into the fixture
similar to the wing tie down rings. I intend for the aft tie down ring
to be permanently installed as it also acts as a skid bar to protect the
rudder bottom in the -6A.
I too, have the nav light/strobe package in the rudder bottom. I ran the
fat wire and the nav light wires laced together up the inside of the
rudder to above the hinge. I made an adel clamp to hold the wires clear
of the hinge. I cut a 5/8" tall, three inch wide slot in the forward
edge of the rudder for the wires to exit the rudder and to allow for
wire movement with rudder deflection. The slot is about three inches
above the hinge. I made a single 1/2" hole in the centerline of the aft
bulkhead/vertical fin spar to match up with the slot. I used staggerd
handshake connectors for all the wires which will connect just inside of
the aft bulkhead - that will allow for easy rudder removal if necessary
and the stagger makes the wires easier to fit though the hole.
I'll try to take a picture of my set up and send it to you off line.
Charlie
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
------------------------------------
> Time: 10:03:31 PM PST US
> From: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Rudder issues.
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
>
> I have a few rudder installation issues on my RV-6A. First there is the aft
> fuselage skin overlap, I left it fairly long and made some smooth cutouts
> where the rudder bottom leading edge would touch it when the rudder is
> deflected. From other RVs I've seen most people cut it straight down pretty
> close to the aft bulkhead leaving quite a gap there. Any reason for this or
> is everyone just cutting it close as a painless exercise?
>
>
> Also, on the RV-6A there is the tie down bracket mounted on the aft bulkhead
> right in front of the fiberglass rudder bottom leading edge. With the rudder
> adjusted out from the vertical stab as specified on Van's plans and the tie
> down bracket ground down close to the weld, the rudder bottom won't allow
> the rudder to inserted far enough in to get the hinge bolts in. What's the
> fix for this? Is everyone just adjusting the hiem bearings out from the
> rudder to increase the gap? Or are you cutting the leading edge off the
> bottom fairing and making it shorter? Or something else?
>
>
> One last thing, I will be installing a combination aft position light strobe
> light in the rudder bottom. I need a hole for the fat strobe wire and a
> smaller hole for small power and ground wires to the light. Where is the
> best place to put these holes, above the bottom hinge bracket, below the
> bottom hinge bracket, some other place? Should I use one large hole or a
> large hole and a small hole? I need to make a slot in the rudder bottom to
> allow for rudder deflection I assume?! Any suggestions? Thanks for
> entertaining this anal slow builder.
>
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
>
> RV-6A N197DM
Message 36
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| Subject: | Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel pro |
blems.
--> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
As far as greater building "challenge" of the NW, remember also the addition of
a step (or two for some folks). With respect to weight, for the -8 series, the
-8A is actually a bit lighter because the -8 has those big honkin' gear tower
structures. But for the -6/7/9 series the TD model will be a few pounds lighter...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D painting...
Subject: RE: RV-List: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel problems.
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Another wheel pant, another gear fairing, transition fairing to cowl,
more hardware, more alignments, more weight, another tire hub assembly,
another potential shimmy hassle.
Mike Stewart
6A
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
CBRxxDRV@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose
wheel problems.
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
In a message dated 8/10/04 8:11:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
lhelming@sigecom.net writes:
> The NW is a bit
> more challenging to build.
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: CS vs FP props |
--> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
Sal,
I recently got a new Hartzell for my -8A, not flying quite yet. I've flown with
several friends in RV's of various types, some with FP and some with CS props.
The CS props are definitely a bigger kick in the pants for takeoff and climb
as you've already noted. The FP are sure nice for their low cost and simplicity
(and lighter weight when compared to Hartzell), but there are some more
operational limitations other than just takeoff. If you're always going to cruise
at the same altitude and power setting, get a FP setup for this one condition
and you'll be happy. If you want the flexibility of optimizing cruise at
different altitudes and power settings, go with CS. The typical pitch setting
on a Sensenich for an RV will overspeed the engine at lower altitudes and higher
power settings. So you have to reduce power, and even then you may end up
running 26-2700 rpm when you'd prefer to reduce noise and increase efficiency
by pulling the prop back to 2400. Also if you do a
cro I'm sure you're aware of the CS advantages (more power on the upside, braking
on the downside, etc).
FWIW....this is all a repeat of what's been rehashed in the archives over and over...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D painting...
Time: 09:36:39 PM PST US
From: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: CS vs FP props
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
Has anyone made an upgrade?
Built the plane then made the switch from Fixed pitch to constant speed?
That would be a great way to compare.
I have a RV-4 with a Hartsell. It has plenty of wow on takeoff. I find that
at 500 feet agl I pull the power back and set the prop to the rpm I want.
Set it and forget it. The -6 I trained in had a fixed pitch and it had
enough wow at take off. Am I missing something here? With 190 hp
0-360 I figure I should have all the wow that is needed and cruise should
not be an issue on a -8. Anyone have any views or thoughts??
I am trying to decide if I want to spend the extra $$ for a new hartsell
for my -8. I promissed myself I would not cut corners but an Extra
$4500 for the first 500 feet AGL seems a bit much.
TIA
RV-4
RV-8 tail
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
There's also a bazillion Piper Cherokee-series (Warriors and Archers and etc) out
there with the round "beer can" Facet pump happily thumping away on the engine
side of the firewall...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D with "beer can" pump in my wingroot...(as well as a gascolator, but that's
another discussion, in itself :-)
From: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> Wherever you put the Boost pump, it should be on the " cold side " of the
> firewall, NOT in the engine compartment. Boost pumps do not survive the
> high temps present in the engine bay. They are much happier and live
longer
> If kept away from the heat as much as practical.
I beg to differ. I had a round Facet boost pump on my '77 Cheetah that did
quite well on the engine side of the firewall. With that, I put the same
kind on my -6A on the engine side of the firewall. Works like a charm.
Maybe the little square ones that Van's sells don't last in the heat; but, I
didn't care too much for those, anyway.
I personally don't care for having the boost pump in the cabin with me.
Because I put mine on the engine side, it was easy to T off that for the
primer valve, as well.
Oh, yeah. I don't have a gascolator, either. That's another discussion, in
itself. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Finishing the tail)
EAA Technical Counselor
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> Last weekend, my Facet didn't sound right on start-up (carbureted O-320
with electric solenoid primer) and the engine behaved as if it had received
no primer shot, though I gave it the usual "4-count" on the primer button.
The usual loud clacking of the fuel boost pump was not present; instead
there was a muted clicking... a few light taps on the body of the pump with
a mallet restored the familiar noise, along with a rise in fuel pressure
from 1 to 2 psig (normal reading is 4 or 5 psig). The engine then started
normally and fuel pressure was 4 psi with or without the boost pump (normal
readings, BTW). The round trip flight to Cleveland was completed without
incident, and the pump sounded and behaved normally on this and a subsequent
flight (to Dean Meylor's beautiful home airstrip, 9NC9).
>
> I'm wondering if I should be concerned by this recent "hiccup" in pump
operation... is it the beginning of the end for my electric pump? Could it
foreshadow a dangerous fuel line stoppage condition?
>
> Just curious how "pre-emptive" I need to be in this situation.
>
> -Bill B / "Stormy"
> RV-6A - 410 hrs
Bill, those pumps are only $36 from Van's. Personally, I'd replace it at the
next opportunity as a preventative measure.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
EAA Technical Counselor
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder issues |
--> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
Charlie
Any chance I could get a copy of that picture also.
Carroll Jernigan
7A Fuselage
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7A newbie questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
I all different kinds of primer on my plane in one place or another.
Basically because I could never make up my mind. Here is a synopsis of
what I think of each...
Mar Hyde
Pros - Easy (self-etching), durable, quick drying (can work with the
part in an hour)
Con - rattle cans are expensive and the finger get's tired.
Note - You can buy it by the quart and spray it with a gun
Epoxy
Pros - Bulletproof and is a moisture barrier without top coat. Looks
(fairly) nice.
Cons - Pain in the posterior, toxic, not self etching, fairly expensive,
heavy, takes a day to cure before working, mixing
Vinyl Wash (PG60G2)
Pros - Easy (self-etching), lightweight, quick drying (about the same as
Mar Hyde), fairly inexpensive
Cons - No moisture barrier without topcoat, Ugly as sin, mixing
Zinc Chromate
(Don't know have no experience)
Basically I don't know that Epoxy is the primer of choice (I chose not
to use it after the emp kit) but I can tell you that if you put it on
correctly you'll need a file to scratch it. The question is, what do
you need? and sometimes you don't need the best there is. You can kill
a fly with a sledgehammer but do you really want to?
The next airplane I build will probably be Mar Hyde all the way. I's
use the quart stuff to spray large parts and big jobs and the rattle can
for the little stuff.
You could probably brush on the Epoxy but you'll still need at least a
good repirator to open the can and mix the parts. Probably should use a
good respirator for all the above, and a breathing system is always better.
I know this will probably start a war but this is just what works for
me. Cessna has built a bunch of airplanes with no primer, and few if
any of the WWII warbirds were primed and many of them have survived the
years. I live in Houston and that is why I am priming. If I lived in
Phoenix I probably wouldn't have bothered.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
dfiggins@es.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <dfiggins@es.com>
>
>After reviewing the archives on priming/primers I have determined that
>the following is probably the most logical approach to priming/primers
>for the RV-7A. I would just like some confirmation that I have
>understood the posts correctly:
>1. As a minimum need to prime the joined parts (riveted rib flanges etc)
>2. As a minimum non-alclad parts need to be primed
>3. 2 part epoxy primer seems to be the primer of choice (way back when I
>recall we used zinc chromate on everything but I guess this is old hat)
>4. Self etch Marhyde spray can is ok for spot priming (csk holes etc)
>but is not good enough for general priming/corrosion protection
>5. Breathing apparatus is essential when spraying the epoxy primer (can
>this stuff be brushed on for small areas?)
>
>The above is a reasonable compromise between corrosion protection and
>weight.
>
>Is this a correct interpretation of the archives??
>
>Additionally when referring to scotchbrite wheels do most people use
>them in bench grinders or handheld drills or both, I assume the
>deburring/polishing version is the one that is used.
>
>Thanks
>
>Dave RV-7A (just starting the empennage kit)
>Do not archive
>
>Dave
>
>
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@excelgeo.com>
Wait just one dag-burn minute. He's gotta replace the pump and polish
the spinner. Then we won't know what fixed it. The pump or the spinner?
George Neal E Capt AU/PC wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
>
> Dernit, Sam, if he just replaces the pump we won't get to argue about it for
> the next few weeks.
>
> 73... neal
>
>
>>Less than $40.00 will put this question to bed:
>>Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
Three teenage daughters!!!??? As the parent of one teenage and one 3 year
old daughter I commend you on the ability to keep your medical, I think I
would have too much stress induced hypertension if I had 3 teens. Way to go
Dad!
Neil McLeod
7QB FWF and Finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
Jackson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
<jayeandscott@telus.net>
Todd:
I also equipped my 6 with the same valve, thinking it would stop calf
cramps in my three teenage daughters holding the brakes during runups.
My valve behaves just like yours, which is annoying. I suspect that two
things are at play here, and there is a way to get it to release without
the need to shutdown or egress.
I think that either the internal design of the valve, or the mechanical
advantage of the valve lever, or even the rigidity of the Bowden cable that
actuates the lever, can't overcome the pressure trapped in the lines once
the parking brakes are set.
With this in mind, the way to reduce the load on the valve is to apply and
hold pressure with the toe brakes, then move the valve to the off position.
It takes a few tries to get it to work, usually only one wheel releases
first, before it will roll with only idle power.
My daughter says that it works best if the pressure applied to the toe
brakes is the same and the pressure originally applied, and trapped in, the
brakes lines by the valve being closed.
This makes sense, in effect balancing the pressure on both sides of the
valve, making it easier to move internally.
I did find it so annoying-from the outside, it appears that one is so
stupid they're attempting to taxi with the brakes on and can't figure out
why it won't go anywhere-that I don't use it anymore, but the girls find it
worth the hassle.
I've started to wonder what to do if the valve should accidentally get
closed in flight, though.....
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> Have a couple of friends that were flying to Alaska in a 125 hour old
Maule
> this summer. Used the parking brake. Took off OK but one brake was still
> locked on landing. Wiped out the gear, one wing, 3 bladed prop.
Fortunately
> the $45,000 repair is covered by insurance as they are now looking at more
> things.
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> Safety Programs Editor - TC
> EAA Sport Pilot
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
> To: "RV List (E-mail)" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
> >
> > Hi All;
> > I have the Matco parking brake sold by Van's on my RV-9a and have a
> real
> > problem with it that I can't find in the archives. When I use it for
> parking
> > I apply full brake pressure then close the parking valve and it holds
very
> > well. However when I open the valve to release the brakes, it almost
> always
> > leaves me with at least one locked brake and sometimes both. I have
> ensured
> > that the valve is in the open position, but the only way to get the
brake
> to
> > release is to remove the wheel pant and crack the bleed valve. 2 drops
of
> > fluid is enough to bleed and it will free the brake completely and brake
> > operation will be normal. I had this problem right from first use last
> year,
> > but I really haven't needed it at all in the months since so I'd
forgotten
> > about it, but lately I've had occasion to use it a few times and I must
> say
> > it is very annoying to pull the wheel pant to fix it... especially the
> last
> > time as I was foolishly only equipped with a Leatherman!
> > Anybody else experience this? Any suggestions?
> >
> > Todd Bartrim
> >
> > RV9Endurance
> > 13B Turbo Rotary
> > C-FSTB
> > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> >
> > "The world will always have a place for those that bring
hard
> > work and determination to the things they do."
> >
> >
>
>
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | Talking about LED position lights and Strobes... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
You guys gotta check this one out:
http://www.silence-aircraft.de/index-e.html
go to "construction" and then on to "Strobe lights".
There is even a short video of the strobe/position lights in action.
THAT is what they should be like IMHO!
AD.
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | Reassembly at the airport |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
Still several months away, but where I live we have to
plan quite a bit in advance. I'm trying to get an
idea of how long it will take to reassemble my RV8
after transporting it to an airport. I plan to
have the plane 100% assembled and ready to fly
in the workshop before taking it apart to
transport it.
Many thanks for any words of wisdom and experience!
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Besides that, he'll have to redo both takeoff and landing check lists by
removing the "whack the fuel pump" part. 8*) KABONG Do Not Archive
> Wait just one dag-burn minute. He's gotta replace the pump and polish
> the spinner. Then we won't know what fixed it. The pump or the spinner?
> > Dernit, Sam, if he just replaces the pump we won't get to argue about it
for
> > the next few weeks.
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Re: CS vs FP props |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
That is a factor, but it is easily compensated for by starting decent
earlier. It would be a long ways down on my list of reasons for C/S
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer@improvementteam.com>
>
> Great post Doug,
>
> I am not flying mine yet but another plus I thought of was descent speed.
I
> had a C-170 with 0360 Lyc and constant speed equipped. With the constant
> speed prop I could just trim down and keep my speeds up for the last miles
> of the trip. With the FP I had to begin to slow down also to keep from
over
> RPM. It kind of made up for the slower climb out speeds to get it back at
> the other end.
>
> Not sure if this is a factor in the RV but I would think so.
>
> Tim Bryan RV-6
> 0-360 and CS prop
> Will fly this year
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Less than $40.00 will put this question to bed:
>>Sam Buchanan
>
Where's the fun in that? You guys don't live very close to the edge, do you? ;-)
Okay, okay, I'll pay Van $40 for the pump + 19.95 S&H + small-order fee and we'll
never know what the real story was. Are you happy now?
Actually, the advice is so sensible I'm embarassed I asked the question. At 40
bucks, it really is a throw-away part (like my nosewheel tire tubes and all those
wheel bearings over the years; don't question why they fail, just replace
them every few hours and be glad they're relatively cheap)- but I was hoping
to save some small change in the kitty for all those electro-whizzies from Perihelion
Design... shucks.
-Stormy
Message 49
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Rick Gray did last week. Multi award winning 6.
rgray67968@aol.com
His comments to me were.
Awesome, 6+kts, climb rocks, it was more work than he thought.
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
CBRxxDRV@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: CS vs FP props
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
Has anyone made an upgrade?
Built the plane then made the switch from Fixed pitch to constant speed?
That would be a great way to compare.
I have a RV-4 with a Hartsell. It has plenty of wow on takeoff. I find
that
at 500 feet agl I pull the power back and set the prop to the rpm I
want.
Set it and forget it. The -6 I trained in had a fixed pitch and it had
enough wow at take off. Am I missing something here? With 190 hp
0-360 I figure I should have all the wow that is needed and cruise
should
not be an issue on a -8. Anyone have any views or thoughts??
I am trying to decide if I want to spend the extra $$ for a new hartsell
for my -8. I promissed myself I would not cut corners but an Extra
$4500 for the first 500 feet AGL seems a bit much.
TIA
RV-4
RV-8 tail
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
==
==
==
==
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Can someone bring me up to speed - RV-6A nose wheel |
problems.
--> RV-List message posted by: Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore@shaw.ca> problems.
Hi gang, thanks for the replies.
Looks like I'll go for the 6A version, I'm more comfortable with that idea. I'll
order the newer nose gear for peace of mind.
tailwinds, terry.
Terry Mortimore,
426 McNabb Street Apt #4,
Sault Ste Marie, Ontario
Canada P6B-1Z3
Message 51
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|
| Subject: | Re: Labeling wiring |
--> RV-List message posted by: Terry Mortimore <terry.mortimore@shaw.ca>
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>I found that I could write by hand on white heat shrink tubing before putting
>it on the wire. Use a Sharpie Twin-tip pen (they come in colors, too). When
>the heat shrink shrinks, so does the writing. Easy, cheap and works real
>well.
>
>Dan Hopper
>RV-7A (About 35 hours now)
>
>
>
Hi Dan:
Another variation on the theme is to make labels on paper in small font. Roll it
around the wire and use clear heat shrink tubing. Makes for a nice job.
tailwinds, terry.
Terry Mortimore,
426 McNabb Street Apt #4,
Sault Ste Marie, Ontario
Canada P6B-1Z3
Message 52
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|
| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
It's actually worse than that!
I have four teenagers, it's just that one isn't interested...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
>
> Three teenage daughters!!!??? As the parent of one teenage and one 3 year
> old daughter I commend you on the ability to keep your medical, I think I
> would have too much stress induced hypertension if I had 3 teens. Way to
go
> Dad!
>
> Neil McLeod
> 7QB FWF and Finishing
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
> Jackson
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
> <jayeandscott@telus.net>
>
> Todd:
> I also equipped my 6 with the same valve, thinking it would stop calf
> cramps in my three teenage daughters holding the brakes during runups.
> My valve behaves just like yours, which is annoying. I suspect that two
> things are at play here, and there is a way to get it to release without
> the need to shutdown or egress.
> I think that either the internal design of the valve, or the mechanical
> advantage of the valve lever, or even the rigidity of the Bowden cable
that
> actuates the lever, can't overcome the pressure trapped in the lines once
> the parking brakes are set.
> With this in mind, the way to reduce the load on the valve is to apply
and
> hold pressure with the toe brakes, then move the valve to the off
position.
> It takes a few tries to get it to work, usually only one wheel releases
> first, before it will roll with only idle power.
> My daughter says that it works best if the pressure applied to the toe
> brakes is the same and the pressure originally applied, and trapped in,
the
> brakes lines by the valve being closed.
> This makes sense, in effect balancing the pressure on both sides of the
> valve, making it easier to move internally.
> I did find it so annoying-from the outside, it appears that one is so
> stupid they're attempting to taxi with the brakes on and can't figure out
> why it won't go anywhere-that I don't use it anymore, but the girls find
it
> worth the hassle.
> I've started to wonder what to do if the valve should accidentally get
> closed in flight, though.....
>
> Scott in Vancouver
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> > Have a couple of friends that were flying to Alaska in a 125 hour old
> Maule
> > this summer. Used the parking brake. Took off OK but one brake was
still
> > locked on landing. Wiped out the gear, one wing, 3 bladed prop.
> Fortunately
> > the $45,000 repair is covered by insurance as they are now looking at
more
> > things.
> >
> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> > Safety Programs Editor - TC
> > EAA Sport Pilot
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
> > To: "RV List (E-mail)" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
> > >
> > > Hi All;
> > > I have the Matco parking brake sold by Van's on my RV-9a and have
a
> > real
> > > problem with it that I can't find in the archives. When I use it for
> > parking
> > > I apply full brake pressure then close the parking valve and it holds
> very
> > > well. However when I open the valve to release the brakes, it almost
> > always
> > > leaves me with at least one locked brake and sometimes both. I have
> > ensured
> > > that the valve is in the open position, but the only way to get the
> brake
> > to
> > > release is to remove the wheel pant and crack the bleed valve. 2 drops
> of
> > > fluid is enough to bleed and it will free the brake completely and
brake
> > > operation will be normal. I had this problem right from first use last
> > year,
> > > but I really haven't needed it at all in the months since so I'd
> forgotten
> > > about it, but lately I've had occasion to use it a few times and I
must
> > say
> > > it is very annoying to pull the wheel pant to fix it... especially the
> > last
> > > time as I was foolishly only equipped with a Leatherman!
> > > Anybody else experience this? Any suggestions?
> > >
> > > Todd Bartrim
> > >
> > > RV9Endurance
> > > 13B Turbo Rotary
> > > C-FSTB
> > > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> > >
> > > "The world will always have a place for those that bring
> hard
> > > work and determination to the things they do."
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: RV6-A Plenum Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV6-A Plenum Question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
>
> List,
> For the builders who have installed a plenum to cool their
engines have you needed to install Van's upper cowl cooling ramps?
> I can't see why they would be of any value with the Plenum
Conversion and might just be in the way?
>
Thanks for any help, Tom in Ohio
>
You can throw the upper cowl cooling ramps away. You will need something
however to guide the incoming air into/within your plenum.
> Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty; in
meeting and solving problems, in facing facts, in being a dependable person.
- Richard L. Evans
>
>
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: Reassembly at the airport |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Well, Micky its hard to say. I took my RV-6A out to the airport Sept 23
1997 planning to have it flying by Thanksgiving as it was 100% complete
{:>). I actually did fly it before Thanksgiving - of 1998 that is. So many
things that you think are completed you find are not. But, perhaps you will
be much closer to that 100% point than I.
Good Luck
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: RV-List: Reassembly at the airport
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Hi,
>
> Still several months away, but where I live we have to
> plan quite a bit in advance. I'm trying to get an
> idea of how long it will take to reassemble my RV8
> after transporting it to an airport. I plan to
> have the plane 100% assembled and ready to fly
> in the workshop before taking it apart to
> transport it.
>
> Many thanks for any words of wisdom and experience!
>
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Message 55
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|
| Subject: | Re: Reassembly at the airport |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Mickey,
The answer to your question is It depends. If you can borrow a spare set of
hands (or two) when you need 'em, don't have any cold weather issues to deal
with, and are able to spend several hours a day on the airplane, you might
get the job done in a week or two depending on how much disassembly you did
prior to transportation.
In my case, I had a few minor items to complete once I got to the airfield.
They would have taken 5-10 hours in my shop. It probably took a couple of
weeks once I got to the airport. Part of the delay was due to "wrong tools
at the airport". For instance, I didn't expect to need the close tolerance
90 degree angle drill, so that meant a trip home to get it.
Another delay I suffered was due to cold and dark weather. I put the
airplane together at the airport beginning at the start of November, and
made my first flight on March 1. There were quite a few evenings where I
had to quit work after a half hour or so, simply because it was too cold to
continue working, despite various space heaters I was running. I don't
believe I was ever able to work more than a couple of hours on any evening,
again because of the cold.
Finally, there are un-knowables, like when you have to troubleshoot
something. In my case, I spent a couple of evenings troubleshooting an
intermittant starter problem. Turned out that the fuse on the starter
switch was getting intermittant contact in the fuse holder. Also, my carb
float had failed, which was another week waiting on getting a new carb float
installed.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: RV-List: Reassembly at the airport
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Hi,
>
> Still several months away, but where I live we have to
> plan quite a bit in advance. I'm trying to get an
> idea of how long it will take to reassemble my RV8
> after transporting it to an airport. I plan to
> have the plane 100% assembled and ready to fly
> in the workshop before taking it apart to
> transport it.
>
> Many thanks for any words of wisdom and experience!
>
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Message 56
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|
| Subject: | Matco Parking brake Lock-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
Double wow!
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
Jackson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
<jayeandscott@telus.net>
It's actually worse than that!
I have four teenagers, it's just that one isn't interested...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
>
> Three teenage daughters!!!??? As the parent of one teenage and one 3 year
> old daughter I commend you on the ability to keep your medical, I think I
> would have too much stress induced hypertension if I had 3 teens. Way to
go
> Dad!
>
> Neil McLeod
> 7QB FWF and Finishing
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
> Jackson
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
> <jayeandscott@telus.net>
>
> Todd:
> I also equipped my 6 with the same valve, thinking it would stop calf
> cramps in my three teenage daughters holding the brakes during runups.
> My valve behaves just like yours, which is annoying. I suspect that two
> things are at play here, and there is a way to get it to release without
> the need to shutdown or egress.
> I think that either the internal design of the valve, or the mechanical
> advantage of the valve lever, or even the rigidity of the Bowden cable
that
> actuates the lever, can't overcome the pressure trapped in the lines once
> the parking brakes are set.
> With this in mind, the way to reduce the load on the valve is to apply
and
> hold pressure with the toe brakes, then move the valve to the off
position.
> It takes a few tries to get it to work, usually only one wheel releases
> first, before it will roll with only idle power.
> My daughter says that it works best if the pressure applied to the toe
> brakes is the same and the pressure originally applied, and trapped in,
the
> brakes lines by the valve being closed.
> This makes sense, in effect balancing the pressure on both sides of the
> valve, making it easier to move internally.
> I did find it so annoying-from the outside, it appears that one is so
> stupid they're attempting to taxi with the brakes on and can't figure out
> why it won't go anywhere-that I don't use it anymore, but the girls find
it
> worth the hassle.
> I've started to wonder what to do if the valve should accidentally get
> closed in flight, though.....
>
> Scott in Vancouver
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> > Have a couple of friends that were flying to Alaska in a 125 hour old
> Maule
> > this summer. Used the parking brake. Took off OK but one brake was
still
> > locked on landing. Wiped out the gear, one wing, 3 bladed prop.
> Fortunately
> > the $45,000 repair is covered by insurance as they are now looking at
more
> > things.
> >
> > Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> > Safety Programs Editor - TC
> > EAA Sport Pilot
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
> > To: "RV List (E-mail)" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Matco Parking brake Lock-up?
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
> > >
> > > Hi All;
> > > I have the Matco parking brake sold by Van's on my RV-9a and have
a
> > real
> > > problem with it that I can't find in the archives. When I use it for
> > parking
> > > I apply full brake pressure then close the parking valve and it holds
> very
> > > well. However when I open the valve to release the brakes, it almost
> > always
> > > leaves me with at least one locked brake and sometimes both. I have
> > ensured
> > > that the valve is in the open position, but the only way to get the
> brake
> > to
> > > release is to remove the wheel pant and crack the bleed valve. 2 drops
> of
> > > fluid is enough to bleed and it will free the brake completely and
brake
> > > operation will be normal. I had this problem right from first use last
> > year,
> > > but I really haven't needed it at all in the months since so I'd
> forgotten
> > > about it, but lately I've had occasion to use it a few times and I
must
> > say
> > > it is very annoying to pull the wheel pant to fix it... especially the
> > last
> > > time as I was foolishly only equipped with a Leatherman!
> > > Anybody else experience this? Any suggestions?
> > >
> > > Todd Bartrim
> > >
> > > RV9Endurance
> > > 13B Turbo Rotary
> > > C-FSTB
> > > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> > >
> > > "The world will always have a place for those that bring
> hard
> > > work and determination to the things they do."
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 57
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|
| Subject: | Re: Reassembly at the airport |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Also dont forget the airport factor, it takes twice as long to get half as
much done as it did at home, in the garage.
At 05:11 PM 8/11/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
>Well, Micky its hard to say. I took my RV-6A out to the airport Sept 23
>1997 planning to have it flying by Thanksgiving as it was 100% complete
>{:>). I actually did fly it before Thanksgiving - of 1998 that is. So many
>things that you think are completed you find are not. But, perhaps you will
>be much closer to that 100% point than I.
>
>Good Luck
>
>Ed
>
>Ed Anderson
>RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>Matthews, NC
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Reassembly at the airport
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > Still several months away, but where I live we have to
> > plan quite a bit in advance. I'm trying to get an
> > idea of how long it will take to reassemble my RV8
> > after transporting it to an airport. I plan to
> > have the plane 100% assembled and ready to fly
> > in the workshop before taking it apart to
> > transport it.
> >
> > Many thanks for any words of wisdom and experience!
> >
> > Mickey
> >
> > --
> > Mickey Coggins
> > http://www.rv8.ch/
> > #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 58
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6 |
08/11/2004 03:11:10 PM,
Serialize complete at 08/11/2004 03:11:10 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott.Fink@Microchip.com
...Isolated from the rest of the engine compartment in a box with the
gascolator, and with a blast tube from the back of the baffling.
Scott
"czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
08/11/2004 09:51 AM
Please respond to rv-list
To: rv-list@matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Boost Pump Location RV-6
--> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
There's also a bazillion Piper Cherokee-series (Warriors and Archers and
etc) out there with the round "beer can" Facet pump happily thumping away
on the engine side of the firewall...
Message 59
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|
| Subject: | Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Cy, I find it incredulous that you can diagnose my engine failure and
present the cause as fact when you've never seen the aircraft, have no idea
of the conditions of the flight, the sequence or timing of events and no
knowledge of the system configuration of the aircraft. And further, to do it
based on the speculation of a third party, who has even less specific
knowledge, just blows me away. I'd dearly love to definitively know the
cause but this is the first I've heard of this "well known phenomenon." If
this occurred every time a boost pump was cycled, airplanes would be falling
out of the sky. I'm an engineer. Show me some data on how, when and under
what conditions this phenomenon occurs, even anecdotal evidence, and I'll
throw it in the mix of possible causes to consider. But for you to state it
as THE cause, at this point, is BS.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> The inference that the boost stayed on is incorrect. My
> source which I consulted claims that the "over boost"
> creates turbulence and cavitation in the engine pump. It
> takes a little time for everything to come back to normal.
> But the chain of events was started by the over boost even
> though you removed it, the cavitation (air bubble) stopped the engine.
>
> At least that is what my Mechanic with over 40 years of
> experience said. He also said that this was a well known phenomenon.
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair Safety Programs
> Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
> >
> > Those are my words but your inference that the boost stayed on is
> incorrect.
> > I wrote that two days after the accident and although I've
> recounted it
> > numerous time in the last 3 years, I guess back then I
> wasn't specific in
> > the <final> configuration. I fell back to what had been
> working flawlessly
> > for the 30 minutes prior, i.e. full rich and boost OFF.
> That followed the
> > theory that if the last action you took made things worse,
> then undo it.
> >
> > Greg
Message 60
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|
| Subject: | Starter Interruption |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
I've wired my RV6 straight down the lines of Aeroelectric's Z-14 with the
exception that I don't use both busses to start the aircraft ( but I do have
a cross connect if I loose a single side). That said, I have two Grand
Rapids displays each with two separate power wires each wired to the two
different busses so that they will operate if I turn off either buss. Why
does the alternate buss 'die' when I start the aircraft, killing the
display? I can understand the primary bus kicking off during start .. but
why the alternate? I've got to go through the 'reboot' sequence again each
time I hit the starter!
Thanks...
David Schaefer
Finishing RV6-A
Message 61
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|
| Subject: | Re: Starter Interruption |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Bibb" <rebibb@comcast.net>
hard to say exactly why but your alternate bus voltage has to be getting
pulled down below the minimal level for the Great Plains when you hit that
starter. If the volatege gets below some level the Great Plains is going to
reboot. I don't have to diagram in front of me to figure out why the
isolation isn't working.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Starter Interruption
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
>
> I've wired my RV6 straight down the lines of Aeroelectric's Z-14 with the
> exception that I don't use both busses to start the aircraft ( but I do
have
> a cross connect if I loose a single side). That said, I have two Grand
> Rapids displays each with two separate power wires each wired to the two
> different busses so that they will operate if I turn off either buss. Why
> does the alternate buss 'die' when I start the aircraft, killing the
> display? I can understand the primary bus kicking off during start .. but
> why the alternate? I've got to go through the 'reboot' sequence again
each
> time I hit the starter!
>
>
> Thanks...
>
>
> David Schaefer
>
> Finishing RV6-A
>
>
Message 62
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|
| Subject: | Starter Interruption |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
David,
I am planning the same system you describe and am in the process of wiring
per Z-14. Since I am not working yet all I say below is SPECULATION and
"thinking out loud".
Is is fair to assume that you have you "left" PWR1 supplied by the "left"
contactor and the "right" PWR1 supplied by the "right" contactor with a
crisscross on for the PWR2? <nomenclature may be off here>
If so ...
No offense in the question, but is the "alternate" contactor turned on? The
GRT boxes are supposed to sense voltage on the multiple sources and switch
to the higher (spent some time with Greg talking about this and "backups"
last year).
I noticed on my friend's RV that the voltage at cranking can get quite low
for a little while and cause certain electronic ignitions and certain engine
monitors to "lose it" temporarily. There was lots of discussion on the
Aeroelectric list about how thing **should** perform.
But back to the GRT units, my thinking was that if there were THREE power
inputs on the system, you ALWAYS have power to the dual units from the dual
power busses *and potentially* from an optional "9V" battery in case both
batteries and both alternators fell out of the airplane! :-)
OK, I know this is a bit over the top so no cries of overkill, please. :-)
Just a little humor for us belt and suspenders types.
Now in your case, I would think that the second battery should be sitting
there happily supplying PLENTY of juice to keep the displays happy. I was
thinking that if I could crank on one battery, I would be guaranteed to have
good clean power for the electronics during cranking.
How is the AHRS/ADC powered?
Have you tried cranking with the crossfeed switch thrown???
Just some thoughts and if you are way past this, I apologize.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Schaefer
> Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 6:48 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Starter Interruption
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
>
> I've wired my RV6 straight down the lines of Aeroelectric's Z-14 with the
> exception that I don't use both busses to start the aircraft (
> but I do have
> a cross connect if I loose a single side). That said, I have two Grand
> Rapids displays each with two separate power wires each wired to the two
> different busses so that they will operate if I turn off either buss. Why
> does the alternate buss 'die' when I start the aircraft, killing the
> display? I can understand the primary bus kicking off during start .. but
> why the alternate? I've got to go through the 'reboot' sequence
> again each
> time I hit the starter!
>
>
> Thanks...
>
>
> David Schaefer
>
> Finishing RV6-A
>
>
Message 63
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| Subject: | Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Dan, why the pump when switching tanks?
> >
>
>
> Alex,
>
> Many low wing aircraft flight manuals call for boost pumps on
> while switching tanks. This is especially important in
> higher altitude airplanes. Between the vapor pressure of the
> fuel and the low ambient air pressure, switching tanks can
> get interesting.
>
> At sea level, you have 14.7 psi available to replace the fuel
> consumed by the engine, but at 18,000 it is less than half of
> that. Throw in the vapor pressure of the fuel and getting
> fuel to the pump can be a big deal. Many high altitude
> airplanes have the electric boost pump built in the tank.
> Some have small boost pumps in the tank that run all the time
> to feed the engine driven or primary electric boost pumps.
>
> Many turbine airplanes have jet (or venturi) pumps that are
> powered by the return fuel that feeds fuel to the engine
> driven fuel pump much like a two pipe well pump system on a farm.
>
> In the B-25 the fuel pressure will start to jump around above
> 10,000 feet in the summertime. We have a low setting on the
> electric pumps that we use to smooth it out.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
OK, got it, Doug. For a minute I thought we were talking about RV's :>)
My original question remains, although I'll be more specific this time:
Why would one need to use the boost pump when switching tanks on an RV,
assuming Van's standard fuel line routing arrangement? Unless one is at
extreme altitudes, there should be no -additional- tendency for vapor
lock during the switching procedure than during normal feed from the
tank. There could be a hot section of stagnant fuel in the cockpit fuel
lines during winter operations which might vaporize during the initial
draw when switching tanks, but the engine driven fuel pump should have
no problem keeping a draw on that (i.e., they should be self priming).
Cooler fuel would be right behind it.
I would suggest that if someone experiences trouble, which is fixed by
using the boost pump, during the tank switching operations that there is
a design or mechanical problem in the fuel system.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 510 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 64
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| Subject: | Re: Starter Interruption |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Do you need diodes in each of the lines to the displays?? to prevent
'crossfeed' through the displays??
David Schaefer wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
>
> I've wired my RV6 straight down the lines of Aeroelectric's Z-14 with the
> exception that I don't use both busses to start the aircraft ( but I do have
> a cross connect if I loose a single side). That said, I have two Grand
> Rapids displays each with two separate power wires each wired to the two
> different busses so that they will operate if I turn off either buss. Why
> does the alternate buss 'die' when I start the aircraft, killing the
> display? I can understand the primary bus kicking off during start .. but
> why the alternate? I've got to go through the 'reboot' sequence again each
> time I hit the starter!
>
>
> Thanks...
>
>
> David Schaefer
>
> Finishing RV6-A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 65
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| Subject: | Re: RV6-A Plenum Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Thanks everybody! Back to Fiberglass pinholes and primer!!
Do Not Archive
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV6-A Plenum Question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom & Cathy Ervin
>
> List,
> For the builders who have installed a plenum to cool their
> engines have you needed to install Van's upper cowl cooling ramps?
> I can't see why they would be of any value with the Plenum
> Conversion and might just be in the way?
>
> Thanks for any help, Tom in Ohio
>
> Tom,
>
> This depends on your plenum. I built my own. All I did was cover the
> baffles with a custom cut/bent piece of aluminum sheet that is held in
> place with hinge pins and a few screws in front. I am using the
> standard air intake ducts. I made my plenum to fit the standard cowl
> and baffle setup.
>
> Ross Mickey
> RV6A
> N9PT
>
>
Message 66
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| Subject: | Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I was also taught from day one to use the boost while switching tanks.
Probably just one of those "good habit" type things.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alex Peterson [mailto:alexpeterson@earthlink.net]
>
> OK, got it, Doug. For a minute I thought we were talking
> about RV's :>)
>
> My original question remains, although I'll be more specific
> this time: Why would one need to use the boost pump when
> switching tanks on an RV, assuming Van's standard fuel line
> routing arrangement? Unless one is at extreme altitudes,
> there should be no -additional- tendency for vapor lock
> during the switching procedure than during normal feed from
> the tank. There could be a hot section of stagnant fuel in
> the cockpit fuel lines during winter operations which might
> vaporize during the initial draw when switching tanks, but
> the engine driven fuel pump should have no problem keeping a
> draw on that (i.e., they should be self priming). Cooler fuel
> would be right behind it.
>
> I would suggest that if someone experiences trouble, which is
> fixed by using the boost pump, during the tank switching
> operations that there is a design or mechanical problem in
> the fuel system.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 510 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 67
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| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
--> RV-List message posted by: James Ashford <jashford@ashcreekwireless.com>
Bill,
Replace it! The Facet pumps are relatively cheap considering the
important role they would play in the event of engine driven pump
failure.
On my last homebuilt (not an RV), my facet failed after 150 hours of
flight time.
Jim Ashford
RV7 70% done, 80% to go
On Wednesday, August 11, 2004, at 07:01 AM, SportAV8R@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
> Question for you fellows:
>
> Last weekend, my Facet didn't sound right on start-up (carbureted
> O-320 with electric solenoid primer) and the engine behaved as if it
> had received no primer shot, though I gave it the usual "4-count" on
> the primer button. The usual loud clacking of the fuel boost pump was
> not present; instead there was a muted clicking... a few light taps on
> the body of the pump with a mallet restored the familiar noise, along
> with a rise in fuel pressure from 1 to 2 psig (normal reading is 4 or
> 5 psig). The engine then started normally and fuel pressure was 4 psi
> with or without the boost pump (normal readings, BTW). The round trip
> flight to Cleveland was completed without incident, and the pump
> sounded and behaved normally on this and a subsequent flight (to Dean
> Meylor's beautiful home airstrip, 9NC9).
>
> I'm wondering if I should be concerned by this recent "hiccup" in pump
> operation... is it the beginning of the end for my electric pump?
> Could it foreshadow a dangerous fuel line stoppage condition?
>
> Just curious how "pre-emptive" I need to be in this situation.
>
> -Bill B / "Stormy"
> RV-6A - 410 hrs
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 68
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| Subject: | New RV-7A Construction log site... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I just got done building my builders log software and set up a front end website
to access the data. The URL is:
http://www.rv7a.com
I am about a month into the project...
- Matt Johnson
Message 69
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
Dean, I use the -9A tie down. It mounts inside the rear bulkhead. There
are four bolts holding this on through the VS. Thus the tie down is
removable like in the wings. Seemed to work great when I fit my VS, but I'm
not flying.....yet. AS for the wiring, I've heard one should run the wire
in the bottom fairing, but angle up and into the VS and rear Bulkhead
somewhat higher so the wire will twist and not bend as the rudder is
deflected. Can't help with the number of holes issue, perhaps this is a
personal preference item.
I doubt if I'm any slower builder than you, but I try not to be anal.
Marty in Brentwood TN, RV-6A fairings, waiting for CS Hartzell to finish
cowling mounting.
Time: 10:03:31 PM PST US
From: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder issues.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos"
--> <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
I have a few rudder installation issues on my RV-6A. First there is the aft
fuselage skin overlap, I left it fairly long and made some smooth cutouts
where the rudder bottom leading edge would touch it when the rudder is
deflected. From other RVs I've seen most people cut it straight down pretty
close to the aft bulkhead leaving quite a gap there. Any reason for this or
is everyone just cutting it close as a painless exercise?
Also, on the RV-6A there is the tie down bracket mounted on the aft bulkhead
right in front of the fiberglass rudder bottom leading edge. With the rudder
adjusted out from the vertical stab as specified on Van's plans and the tie
down bracket ground down close to the weld, the rudder bottom won't allow
the rudder to inserted far enough in to get the hinge bolts in. What's the
fix for this? Is everyone just adjusting the hiem bearings out from the
rudder to increase the gap? Or are you cutting the leading edge off the
bottom fairing and making it shorter? Or something else?
One last thing, I will be installing a combination aft position light strobe
light in the rudder bottom. I need a hole for the fat strobe wire and a
smaller hole for small power and ground wires to the light. Where is the
best place to put these holes, above the bottom hinge bracket, below the
bottom hinge bracket, some other place? Should I use one large hole or a
large hole and a small hole? I need to make a slot in the rudder bottom to
allow for rudder deflection I assume?! Any suggestions? Thanks for
entertaining this anal slow builder.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
TMX-360 waiting for install
Message 70
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| Subject: | Reassembly at the airport |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon@msn.com>
I took my aircraft (RV-4) out of the basement in April of 2001 and made
the first flight on August 8th, 2001. In June of the same year, I spent
two weeks in Europe on my honeymoon. Before moving the aircraft to the
airport, the wings had never been fit to the aircraft, nor had any of
the control linkages been connected to the tail. I had installed the
engine and propeller while in the basement, but had to remove both to
get it out of the house.
If you do all you can in the comfort of your home shop, and I mean
everything, and you try your best to choreograph all the remaining
activities, four months is plenty. If you don't have to work for a
living, probably half that is sufficient. I was by no means a fast
builder, as I spent 3 weeks short of 10 years to go from receipt of tail
kit to first flight. I did find, however, that once I was at the
airport, I was highly motivated to get the thing flying. Finally, I've
been flying for just over 3 years, and I still wouldn't consider it
completely done - they never are...
Good luck,
Dean Pichon
Bolton, MA
RV-4, 220hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: RV-List: Reassembly at the airport
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
Still several months away, but where I live we have to
plan quite a bit in advance. I'm trying to get an
idea of how long it will take to reassemble my RV8
after transporting it to an airport. I plan to
have the plane 100% assembled and ready to fly
in the workshop before taking it apart to
transport it.
Many thanks for any words of wisdom and experience!
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 71
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
Larry: Thanks for bringing some common sense to this discussion, I have
personally experienced as a professional flight engineer for about 20 years
on all kinds of airplanes Piston airplanes up through B-747. The boost
pump is always turned on before a tank is selected. By watching the fuel
pressure rise as the tank pump is turned on and watch the slight drop when
the pump is turned off. On my last RV-6 had a I0-320 fuel injected engine,
the pump was used like all engines are used for take off, landing and
switching tanks. I would suspect the engine driven pump bypass valve is not
working if the pump causes the engine to flood out. Normally all you would
see at idle was a slight drop in RPM. Michael Stewart can tell you what is
the outcome if the engine driven fuel pump fail and the electric pump is
not available. I had one experience when I had a ruptured diaphragm in the
fuel servo and the engine did not like to run without the pump on. When
flying DC-8's in Vietnam with the high temperature on the ground 30 degrees
C. if the boost pumps were not used, when the power is retarded at
altitudes above 33,000ft the fuel pressure would fluctuate and the engines
would begin to flame out. The procedure had to be changed to leave the
pumps on all the time. Sorry for the long reply
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A Do not arcive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Servo problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> I was also taught from day one to use the boost while switching tanks.
> Probably just one of those "good habit" type things.
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
> Do not archive
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Alex Peterson [mailto:alexpeterson@earthlink.net]
> >
> > OK, got it, Doug. For a minute I thought we were talking
> > about RV's :>)
> >
> > My original question remains, although I'll be more specific
> > this time: Why would one need to use the boost pump when
> > switching tanks on an RV, assuming Van's standard fuel line
> > routing arrangement? Unless one is at extreme altitudes,
> > there should be no -additional- tendency for vapor lock
> > during the switching procedure than during normal feed from
> > the tank. There could be a hot section of stagnant fuel in
> > the cockpit fuel lines during winter operations which might
> > vaporize during the initial draw when switching tanks, but
> > the engine driven fuel pump should have no problem keeping a
> > draw on that (i.e., they should be self priming). Cooler fuel
> > would be right behind it.
> >
> > I would suggest that if someone experiences trouble, which is
> > fixed by using the boost pump, during the tank switching
> > operations that there is a design or mechanical problem in
> > the fuel system.
> >
> > Alex Peterson
> > Maple Grove, MN
> > RV6-A N66AP 510 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
Message 72
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| Subject: | New RV-7A Construction log site... (not processed: |
message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kathleen (rv7)" <Kathleen@rv7.us>
Matt, the site is very nice, but frankly, your shop is way too clean. You
should be embarrassed :-)
I spent a week cleaning mine and it's still a mess. How do you do that?
(do not archive)
Kathleen Evans
Folsom, CA
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Johnson
Subject: RV-List: New RV-7A Construction log site... (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I just got done building my builders log software and set up a front end
website to access the data. The URL is:
http://www.rv7a.com
I am about a month into the project...
- Matt Johnson
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 73
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Servo problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Larry Bowen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
>I was also taught from day one to use the boost while switching tanks.
>Probably just one of those "good habit" type things.
>
As, I think, we all were. It's just a way to lower the chance of things
going wrong. The boost pump would push any air that may be trapped in
the fuel tank of the 'switching to' tank ..... say from becoming
unported during unusual attitudes ..... which may become a problem for
the engine driven pump .... and then a problem for the engine. True or
not??? Hell, I don't know .... just throwing out ideas to see what sticks.
Linn
do not archive
>
>-
>Larry Bowen
>Larry@BowenAero.com
>http://BowenAero.com
>Do not archive
>
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Alex Peterson [mailto:alexpeterson@earthlink.net]
>>
>>OK, got it, Doug. For a minute I thought we were talking
>>about RV's :>)
>>
>>My original question remains, although I'll be more specific
>>this time: Why would one need to use the boost pump when
>>switching tanks on an RV, assuming Van's standard fuel line
>>routing arrangement? Unless one is at extreme altitudes,
>>there should be no -additional- tendency for vapor lock
>>during the switching procedure than during normal feed from
>>the tank. There could be a hot section of stagnant fuel in
>>the cockpit fuel lines during winter operations which might
>>vaporize during the initial draw when switching tanks, but
>>the engine driven fuel pump should have no problem keeping a
>>draw on that (i.e., they should be self priming). Cooler fuel
>>would be right behind it.
>>
>>I would suggest that if someone experiences trouble, which is
>>fixed by using the boost pump, during the tank switching
>>operations that there is a design or mechanical problem in
>>the fuel system.
>>
>>Alex Peterson
>>Maple Grove, MN
>>RV6-A N66AP 510 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 74
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| Subject: | Metal Polish/Cleaner? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
After recently removing the plastic from the rest of the plane skins, it's
real obvious where the plastic was removed years earlier, along the rivet
lines. I have stripes where the exposed AL has tarnished. Anyone know of a
good cleaner/polish I can used to even things up? I'm not trying to have a
polished plane, per say, but it would be nice if the whole thing was equally
shiney everywhere, as it might be many months before I have it painted.
Thx,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 75
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| Subject: | Re: facet electric fuel (boost) pump ? malfunction |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Bill
You may have simply passed a piece of debris through the pump. I'd
monitor it for a while.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
>Question for you fellows:
>
>Last weekend, my Facet didn't sound right on start-up (carbureted O-320
>with electric solenoid primer) and the engine behaved as if it had
>received no primer shot, though I gave it the usual "4-count" on the
>primer button. The usual loud clacking of the fuel boost pump was not
>present; instead there was a muted clicking... a few light taps on the
>body of the pump with a mallet restored the familiar noise, along with a
>rise in fuel pressure from 1 to 2 psig (normal reading is 4 or 5
>psig). The engine then started normally and fuel pressure was 4 psi with
>or without the boost pump (normal readings, BTW). The round trip flight
>to Cleveland was completed without incident, and the pump sounded and
>behaved normally on this and a subsequent flight (to Dean Meylor's
>beautiful home airstrip, 9NC9).
>
>I'm wondering if I should be concerned by this recent "hiccup" in pump
>operation... is it the beginning of the end for my electric pump? Could
>it foreshadow a dangerous fuel line stoppage condition?
>
>Just curious how "pre-emptive" I need to be in this situation.
>
>-Bill B / "Stormy"
>RV-6A - 410 hrs
>
>
Message 76
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
Thanks for all the input on the rudder fairing, tie-down and wiring guys.
Hopefully Hurricane Charlie won't make me the proud owner of mangled mess of
aluminum that I've spent the last seven years trying to turn into an RV-6A.
Cross your fingers for me and the rest of the Florida RV builders (you
wouldn't believe how many there are). Thanks again.
Dean Psiropoulos
N197DM
Message 77
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| Subject: | RV traveling to PNW |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kenneth Cantrell" <kcflyrv@comcast.net>
Hello listers,
My wife and I are planning to fly our RV-6 from home in central Ca to
the greater Seattle area including possibly Friday Harbor and Victoria
BC in a couple weeks. I'd like some advice on where to stay and sights
to see. Advice on customs procedures for travel into Canada appreciated
as well. We'll likely be staying 3 or 4 days.
Thanks in advance for any & all suggestions.
Ken Cantrell
RV-6, 299 hours
Message 78
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| Subject: | Cherry Max rivet question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
I would like to install some Cherry Max rivets in place of MSP-42 rivets. It's
for the Flap Brace on my 7-A. On the quick build wings you have to use the MSP-42
rivets since there isn't any access to place the AN rivets. I think it's supposed
to be a CR3213-4-6 but that's just a guess?
And yes I know....the MSP-42's will work just fine. I'll just sleep better using
the Max rivets for the flap brace since that's about all that's holding it on.
Thanks!
Karie Daniel
Sammamish
RV-7A QB (feels like a Slow Build)
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