Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:28 AM - Emergency Parachutes (Glen Matejcek)
2. 05:57 AM - Re: Park brake (Dean)
3. 06:33 AM - Matco Parking Brake Valve (Mark Taylor)
4. 07:24 AM - brake cylinder springs (Knicholas2@aol.com)
5. 08:28 AM - Re: Park brake (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
6. 08:40 AM - Re: Park brake (Todd Bartrim)
7. 08:45 AM - Re: Matco Parking Brake Valve (Todd Bartrim)
8. 09:04 AM - Re: Park brake (Vanremog@aol.com)
9. 09:04 AM - Re: Performance Engines (Vanremog@aol.com)
10. 09:04 AM - Re: brake cylinder springs (Vanremog@aol.com)
11. 09:06 AM - Re: Park brake (Todd Bartrim)
12. 09:14 AM - Re: Park brake (Ed Holyoke)
13. 10:26 AM - EGT/CHT question (Ed Holyoke)
14. 10:40 AM - Re: Park brake (Gert)
15. 12:05 PM - Re: EGT/CHT question (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
16. 12:22 PM - Re: EGT/CHT question (Ed Holyoke)
17. 12:41 PM - Re: Performance Engines (sportpilot)
18. 01:39 PM - gelcoat (plaurence@the-beach.net)
19. 02:52 PM - Re: EGT/CHT question (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
20. 03:01 PM - Re: brake cylinder springs (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
21. 03:07 PM - Re: Matco Parking Brake Valve (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
22. 03:16 PM - Re: Emergency Parachutes (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
23. 03:22 PM - Re: gelcoat (RGray67968@aol.com)
24. 03:35 PM - Re: EGT/CHT question (Ed Holyoke)
25. 04:52 PM - NTSB (Wheeler North)
26. 06:07 PM - Airtech Wingtip lens kit (RVEIGHTA@aol.com)
27. 07:21 PM - Re: loose wheel bearings was brake cylinder springs (Charlie Kuss)
28. 07:42 PM - Re: loose wheel bearings was brake cylinder springs (Alex Peterson)
29. 08:54 PM - Re: Airtech Wingtip lens kit (sportpilot)
30. 09:17 PM - Re: gelcoat (David Carter)
31. 09:43 PM - Re: gelcoat (Jeff Point)
32. 10:02 PM - Not RV Related, and real long - delete as you see fit, Was Re: CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!! (Christopher J Fortin)
33. 10:03 PM - Re: loose wheel bearings was brake cylinder springs (Jaye and Scott Jackson)
34. 10:15 PM - Re: Not RV Related, and real long - delete as you see fit, (Jeff Point)
35. 10:26 PM - Re: Not RV Related, and real long - delete as you see fit, Was Re: ... (HCRV6@aol.com)
36. 10:50 PM - Re: Not RV Related, and real long - delete as you see fit, Was Re: CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!! (Stein Bruch)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Emergency Parachutes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi All-
I promise this is the last correction to the addenda... As I re-read the
note I posted I realized I made an error. My buddy was actually at about
400' when he pushed over. He was more like 200' or less when he pulled the
ripcord, hence the failure to open completely. As I recall, the TSO for
emergency rigs requires full opening and deceleration within about 500'.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
>
> Right at 2 years ago (Aug 10, 2002) my buddy found himself departing a
> crippled Eagle II that was travelling essentially vertically at about
400'.
> He's fine, the Eagle is landfill.
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Todd
Did you also find the Installation Drawing 4-621001 on their web site that
shows the total lever travel from open to closed is only 45 degrees, 22 1/2
degrees above and below the horizontal position ?
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A 13B Rotary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Park brake
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
>
> OK, now this sheds some light on the subject. I had assumed that
it was a
> simple on/off valve and unfortunately in it's installed location it is
very
> hard to closely inspect. This makes allot of sense and I believe I have
mine
> set up for a 90 degree arc of travel. I do remember that mine never came
> with any info at all. Every time that I have this problem I check that the
> lever is down and I try to reach down to push it that little extra, which
is
> apparently the wrong thing to do.
> Thanks Wheeler!
> Previous google searches failed to bring up Matco's web site, only
vendor
> sites, however a search for "Matco" only brought up Matco Mfg, which has
> exactly the info required including an exploded view of the valve,
> confirming Wheelers explanation. It can be seen at:
>
>
http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_produc
> tinfo&uid=2192&pi_id=61655&clist=0,59990,60741
> Click on illustrated parts list.
>
> It appears that they also recently increased the inlet hole spacing to
allow
> 90 degree AN fittings (remember that little pain-in-the-a**?)
>
> Thanks to all those that helped
>
> Todd Bartrim
>
> RV9Endurance
> 13B Turbo Rotary
> C-FSTB
> http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
> work and determination to the things they do."
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> The matco park brake valves have two spring loaded poppet valves (one for
> each side) that are pushed open by two cam lobes on a rotating shaft.
>
> When the cams are pushed on them they are stuck open, when the cam is
> rotated off they act like check valves and allow pressure to build up from
> the master cyls but not return.
>
> If the lever rotates too far it will cause the cam to come back off the
> valves and reengage the parking brake.
>
> If I remember correctly 90degs is too much lever travel, its more like 45
> degs.
>
> As stated in other posts, if the compensating valves in the master
cylinders
> don't open up at the top end of the MC piston travel this will also keep
the
> brakes on.
>
> W
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Matco Parking Brake Valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
We have the Matco valve too. When I looked at the drawing to figure out the
travel, I was most surprised that the valve has no internal stops. I decided
to make positive stops for mine externally. Check it out at
http://home.comcast.net/~mtaylo17/RV7/ on the fuselage page, about a third
of the way down.
Mark.
Message 4
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| Subject: | brake cylinder springs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
Hi all! I am having trouble with dragging brakes in my newly flying 9A. The
pedals have full and free motion but they still drag. I read in the archives
about replacing the return springs with longer-stronger ones. THe question:
how easy (difficult?) and messy of a job is that? I am finding it harder
and harder to climb under that panel!!! (... an aging thing....)
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - flying.
Seattle
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
Yikes, now this has me wondering if we've just been lucky allthis time.
I rigged the lever on our Matco valve to have the parking brakes on when the
lever is 90 degrees to the valve body, and off when the lever is in line
with the body.
If this is not the case, then I must rerig this lever and fast.
I did a search for Matco and the drawing you refer to but can't find it.
Could you include the address?
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Park brake
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
>
> Todd
>
> Did you also find the Installation Drawing 4-621001 on their web site that
> shows the total lever travel from open to closed is only 45 degrees, 22
1/2
> degrees above and below the horizontal position ?
>
> Dean Van Winkle
> RV-9A 13B Rotary
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Park brake
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
> >
> > OK, now this sheds some light on the subject. I had assumed that
> it was a
> > simple on/off valve and unfortunately in it's installed location it is
> very
> > hard to closely inspect. This makes allot of sense and I believe I have
> mine
> > set up for a 90 degree arc of travel. I do remember that mine never came
> > with any info at all. Every time that I have this problem I check that
the
> > lever is down and I try to reach down to push it that little extra,
which
> is
> > apparently the wrong thing to do.
> > Thanks Wheeler!
> > Previous google searches failed to bring up Matco's web site,
only
> vendor
> > sites, however a search for "Matco" only brought up Matco Mfg, which has
> > exactly the info required including an exploded view of the valve,
> > confirming Wheelers explanation. It can be seen at:
> >
> >
>
http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_produc
> > tinfo&uid=2192&pi_id=61655&clist=0,59990,60741
> > Click on illustrated parts list.
> >
> > It appears that they also recently increased the inlet hole spacing to
> allow
> > 90 degree AN fittings (remember that little pain-in-the-a**?)
> >
> > Thanks to all those that helped
> >
> > Todd Bartrim
> >
> > RV9Endurance
> > 13B Turbo Rotary
> > C-FSTB
> > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> >
> > "The world will always have a place for those that bring
hard
> > work and determination to the things they do."
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> >
> > The matco park brake valves have two spring loaded poppet valves (one
for
> > each side) that are pushed open by two cam lobes on a rotating shaft.
> >
> > When the cams are pushed on them they are stuck open, when the cam is
> > rotated off they act like check valves and allow pressure to build up
from
> > the master cyls but not return.
> >
> > If the lever rotates too far it will cause the cam to come back off the
> > valves and reengage the parking brake.
> >
> > If I remember correctly 90degs is too much lever travel, its more like
45
> > degs.
> >
> > As stated in other posts, if the compensating valves in the master
> cylinders
> > don't open up at the top end of the MC piston travel this will also keep
> the
> > brakes on.
> >
> > W
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
Hi Dean;
The link for the installation drawing seems to be broken. Did anybody else
receive their p-brake without an installation drawing or are they normally
included? If anybody has one they can scan and send to me I sure would
appreciate it, otherwise I'll just e-mail their tech dept, should get an
answer on Monday.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dean
Subject: Re: RV-List: Park brake
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Todd
Did you also find the Installation Drawing 4-621001 on their web site that
shows the total lever travel from open to closed is only 45 degrees, 22 1/2
degrees above and below the horizontal position ?
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A 13B Rotary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Park brake
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
>
> OK, now this sheds some light on the subject. I had assumed that
it was a
> simple on/off valve and unfortunately in it's installed location it is
very
> hard to closely inspect. This makes allot of sense and I believe I have
mine
> set up for a 90 degree arc of travel. I do remember that mine never came
> with any info at all. Every time that I have this problem I check that the
> lever is down and I try to reach down to push it that little extra, which
is
> apparently the wrong thing to do.
> Thanks Wheeler!
> Previous google searches failed to bring up Matco's web site, only
vendor
> sites, however a search for "Matco" only brought up Matco Mfg, which has
> exactly the info required including an exploded view of the valve,
> confirming Wheelers explanation. It can be seen at:
>
>
http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_produc
> tinfo&uid=2192&pi_id=61655&clist=0,59990,60741
> Click on illustrated parts list.
>
> It appears that they also recently increased the inlet hole spacing to
allow
> 90 degree AN fittings (remember that little pain-in-the-a**?)
>
> Thanks to all those that helped
>
> Todd Bartrim
>
> RV9Endurance
> 13B Turbo Rotary
> C-FSTB
> http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
> work and determination to the things they do."
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> The matco park brake valves have two spring loaded poppet valves (one for
> each side) that are pushed open by two cam lobes on a rotating shaft.
>
> When the cams are pushed on them they are stuck open, when the cam is
> rotated off they act like check valves and allow pressure to build up from
> the master cyls but not return.
>
> If the lever rotates too far it will cause the cam to come back off the
> valves and reengage the parking brake.
>
> If I remember correctly 90degs is too much lever travel, its more like 45
> degs.
>
> As stated in other posts, if the compensating valves in the master
cylinders
> don't open up at the top end of the MC piston travel this will also keep
the
> brakes on.
>
> W
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Matco Parking Brake Valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
Hi Mark;
This is a great idea. I was thinking about drilling a set of shallow holes
to insert roll pins to use as stops, but due to the location of the shaft at
the bottom of the block, this is not practical. Your solution looks like it
will work great.
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
We have the Matco valve too. When I looked at the drawing to figure out the
travel, I was most surprised that the valve has no internal stops. I decided
to make positive stops for mine externally. Check it out at
http://home.comcast.net/~mtaylo17/RV7/ on the fuselage page, about a third
of the way down.
Mark.
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 8/14/2004 7:02:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
The matco park brake valves have two spring loaded poppet valves (one for
each side) that are pushed open by two cam lobes on a rotating shaft.
When the cams are pushed on them they are stuck open, when the cam is
rotated off they act like check valves and allow pressure to build up from
the master cyls but not return.
If the lever rotates too far it will cause the cam to come back off the
valves and reengage the parking brake.
====================================
Okay. Now we get to the crux of the matter. As I have a Parker Cleveland
valve in my 6A, I don't have this possibility. The construction is completely
different Cleveland vs Matco. IMO the Matco is a poor design, if it
requires external stops. The Cleveland valve is self contained and has it's own
built in stops.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Performance Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 8/14/2004 10:50:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv6_flyer@hotmail.com writes:
My aircraft will be 7 years old in September. Some of this engine work goes
back 10 years. I was able to purchase a WRECKED airplane for $2,600. That
is how I got the engine in my RV. The engine was balanced, "blue printed",
and rebuilt to NEW specs. Total time on engine is now over 4,500 hours.
========================================
After watching the news last night it looks as though there will be a few
more wrecked planes in Florida that will help engine availability for RVs.
It's one of those bad news good news things.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: brake cylinder springs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 8/15/2004 7:25:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Knicholas2@aol.com writes:
Hi all! I am having trouble with dragging brakes in my newly flying 9A.
The
pedals have full and free motion but they still drag. I read in the
archives
about replacing the return springs with longer-stronger ones. THe question:
how easy (difficult?) and messy of a job is that? I am finding it harder
and harder to climb under that panel!!!
=======================================
Hire a small flexible person to do it, but definitely get it done. I still
believe that the real problem with the springs that came on my cylinders
wasn't that they were any shorter, but that the wire used was not properly heat
treated and so they were yielding or "sacking out" as a result of actuating
them with no fluid occasionally prior to installation.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
OK, I've found the install drawing through their technical support page.
I
hadn't looked there yet as I'd expected the usual contact info for tech
support, Instead it opens up a library of all of their product drawings with
all of the necessary info.
Ahhh... If only I'd found this info a few years ago when I was installing
this thing.
http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/IM27a.jpg
http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/mastercylinder23a.jpg
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
Hi Dean;
The link for the installation drawing seems to be broken. Did
anybody else
receive their p-brake without an installation drawing or are they normally
included? If anybody has one they can scan and send to me I sure would
appreciate it, otherwise I'll just e-mail their tech dept, should get an
answer on Monday.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dean
Subject: Re: RV-List: Park brake
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Todd
Did you also find the Installation Drawing 4-621001 on their web site that
shows the total lever travel from open to closed is only 45 degrees, 22 1/2
degrees above and below the horizontal position ?
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A 13B Rotary
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Try this:
http://matco.elixirlabs.com/users/matco/images/IM27a.jpg
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
Jackson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Park brake
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
<jayeandscott@telus.net>
Yikes, now this has me wondering if we've just been lucky allthis time.
I rigged the lever on our Matco valve to have the parking brakes on when
the
lever is 90 degrees to the valve body, and off when the lever is in line
with the body.
If this is not the case, then I must rerig this lever and fast.
I did a search for Matco and the drawing you refer to but can't find it.
Could you include the address?
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Park brake
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
>
> Todd
>
> Did you also find the Installation Drawing 4-621001 on their web site
that
> shows the total lever travel from open to closed is only 45 degrees,
22
1/2
> degrees above and below the horizontal position ?
>
> Dean Van Winkle
> RV-9A 13B Rotary
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Park brake
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
> >
> > OK, now this sheds some light on the subject. I had assumed
that
> it was a
> > simple on/off valve and unfortunately in it's installed location it
is
> very
> > hard to closely inspect. This makes allot of sense and I believe I
have
> mine
> > set up for a 90 degree arc of travel. I do remember that mine never
came
> > with any info at all. Every time that I have this problem I check
that
the
> > lever is down and I try to reach down to push it that little extra,
which
> is
> > apparently the wrong thing to do.
> > Thanks Wheeler!
> > Previous google searches failed to bring up Matco's web
site,
only
> vendor
> > sites, however a search for "Matco" only brought up Matco Mfg, which
has
> > exactly the info required including an exploded view of the valve,
> > confirming Wheelers explanation. It can be seen at:
> >
> >
>
http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_pr
oduc
> > tinfo&uid=2192&pi_id=61655&clist=0,59990,60741
> > Click on illustrated parts list.
> >
> > It appears that they also recently increased the inlet hole spacing
to
> allow
> > 90 degree AN fittings (remember that little pain-in-the-a**?)
> >
> > Thanks to all those that helped
> >
> > Todd Bartrim
> >
> > RV9Endurance
> > 13B Turbo Rotary
> > C-FSTB
> > http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
> >
> > "The world will always have a place for those that
bring
hard
> > work and determination to the things they do."
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> >
> > The matco park brake valves have two spring loaded poppet valves
(one
for
> > each side) that are pushed open by two cam lobes on a rotating
shaft.
> >
> > When the cams are pushed on them they are stuck open, when the cam
is
> > rotated off they act like check valves and allow pressure to build
up
from
> > the master cyls but not return.
> >
> > If the lever rotates too far it will cause the cam to come back off
the
> > valves and reengage the parking brake.
> >
> > If I remember correctly 90degs is too much lever travel, its more
like
45
> > degs.
> >
> > As stated in other posts, if the compensating valves in the master
> cylinders
> > don't open up at the top end of the MC piston travel this will also
keep
> the
> > brakes on.
> >
> > W
> >
> >
>
>
==
==
==
==
Message 13
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| Subject: | EGT/CHT question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Engine gurus,
I know that high EGTs can lead to high CHTs. Can a semi-inverse
relationship exist as well?
In our O-320 fixed pitch 6a, I've noticed that the #1 cyl has run
noticeably cooler in both EGT and CHT than the others with #3 being
consistently hotter in CHT. The EGT on #1 was sometimes 100 or more
degrees cooler than the rest but sometimes within 30 degrees or so. The
inconsistency is more troubling that the actual figures.
I've been experimenting with blocking part of the airflow to #1 with
metal tape to see if I can get #3 to run cooler. This has worked quite
well, bringing #1's temp up to within a few degrees of #s 2 and 4 and
bringing #3's down to within about 20 or 30 degrees of the pack. This is
gratifying. I've only flown it a couple of hours with the latest tape
job, so the figures are preliminary. If they hold up, I'll make a more
permanent shield from sheet metal.
There was, however an unexpected rise in the EGT of #1 bringing it into
line with the others. The spread is now much smaller with #1 usually not
the lowest anymore. I'm not complaining. I'm just mystified. Was the
cylinder running so cool that breathing or combustion was somehow
inhibited?
Anybody have a good explanation for this?
Ed Holyoke
Co-owner RV-6a N79WH
RV-6 N86ED (reserved)
Message 14
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
No I did not get a drawing either with my valve
Gert
Todd Bartrim wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
>
> Hi Dean;
> The link for the installation drawing seems to be broken. Did anybody
else
> receive their p-brake without an installation drawing or are they normally
> included? If anybody has one they can scan and send to me I sure would
> appreciate it, otherwise I'll just e-mail their tech dept, should get an
> answer on Monday.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dean
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Park brake
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
>
> Todd
>
> Did you also find the Installation Drawing 4-621001 on their web site that
> shows the total lever travel from open to closed is only 45 degrees, 22 1/2
> degrees above and below the horizontal position ?
>
> Dean Van Winkle
> RV-9A 13B Rotary
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Park brake
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
>>
>> OK, now this sheds some light on the subject. I had assumed that
>
> it was a
>
>>simple on/off valve and unfortunately in it's installed location it is
>
> very
>
>>hard to closely inspect. This makes allot of sense and I believe I have
>
> mine
>
>>set up for a 90 degree arc of travel. I do remember that mine never came
>>with any info at all. Every time that I have this problem I check that the
>>lever is down and I try to reach down to push it that little extra, which
>
> is
>
>>apparently the wrong thing to do.
>> Thanks Wheeler!
>> Previous google searches failed to bring up Matco's web site, only
>
> vendor
>
>>sites, however a search for "Matco" only brought up Matco Mfg, which has
>>exactly the info required including an exploded view of the valve,
>>confirming Wheelers explanation. It can be seen at:
>>
>>
>
> http://www.matcomfg.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&action=catalog_produc
>
>>tinfo&uid=2192&pi_id=61655&clist=0,59990,60741
>> Click on illustrated parts list.
>>
>>It appears that they also recently increased the inlet hole spacing to
>
> allow
>
>>90 degree AN fittings (remember that little pain-in-the-a**?)
>>
>>Thanks to all those that helped
>>
>>Todd Bartrim
>>
>>RV9Endurance
>>13B Turbo Rotary
>>C-FSTB
>>http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>>
>> "The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
>>work and determination to the things they do."
>>
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>>
>>The matco park brake valves have two spring loaded poppet valves (one for
>>each side) that are pushed open by two cam lobes on a rotating shaft.
>>
>>When the cams are pushed on them they are stuck open, when the cam is
>>rotated off they act like check valves and allow pressure to build up from
>>the master cyls but not return.
>>
>>If the lever rotates too far it will cause the cam to come back off the
>>valves and reengage the parking brake.
>>
>>If I remember correctly 90degs is too much lever travel, its more like 45
>>degs.
>>
>>As stated in other posts, if the compensating valves in the master
>
> cylinders
>
>>don't open up at the top end of the MC piston travel this will also keep
>
> the
>
>>brakes on.
>>
>>W
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
Do you have the front cylinder-temperature raising plates installed as per
the baffle drawings?
Scott in Vancouver
going out to look at the parking brake valve....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: EGT/CHT question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
>
> Engine gurus,
>
> I know that high EGTs can lead to high CHTs. Can a semi-inverse
> relationship exist as well?
>
> In our O-320 fixed pitch 6a, I've noticed that the #1 cyl has run
> noticeably cooler in both EGT and CHT than the others with #3 being
> consistently hotter in CHT. The EGT on #1 was sometimes 100 or more
> degrees cooler than the rest but sometimes within 30 degrees or so. The
> inconsistency is more troubling that the actual figures.
>
> I've been experimenting with blocking part of the airflow to #1 with
> metal tape to see if I can get #3 to run cooler. This has worked quite
> well, bringing #1's temp up to within a few degrees of #s 2 and 4 and
> bringing #3's down to within about 20 or 30 degrees of the pack. This is
> gratifying. I've only flown it a couple of hours with the latest tape
> job, so the figures are preliminary. If they hold up, I'll make a more
> permanent shield from sheet metal.
>
> There was, however an unexpected rise in the EGT of #1 bringing it into
> line with the others. The spread is now much smaller with #1 usually not
> the lowest anymore. I'm not complaining. I'm just mystified. Was the
> cylinder running so cool that breathing or combustion was somehow
> inhibited?
>
> Anybody have a good explanation for this?
>
> Ed Holyoke
> Co-owner RV-6a N79WH
> RV-6 N86ED (reserved)
>
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | EGT/CHT question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Scott,
I haven't even looked at that area of the plans. Come to think of it, I
don't believe I have the baffle drawings. We didn't build this plane and
mine isn't that far along yet. So far I've just put metal tape on the
front of the #1 cyl and head about an inch high as a temporary air dam.
We can do something more permanent once we're sure how much air to
block.
I expected this to raise the CHT on #1, but I don't understand why the
EGT went up as well.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Co-owner RV-6a N79WH
RV-6 N86ED (reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
Jackson
Subject: Re: RV-List: EGT/CHT question
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
<jayeandscott@telus.net>
Do you have the front cylinder-temperature raising plates installed as
per
the baffle drawings?
Scott in Vancouver
going out to look at the parking brake valve....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: EGT/CHT question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
>
> Engine gurus,
>
> I know that high EGTs can lead to high CHTs. Can a semi-inverse
> relationship exist as well?
>
> In our O-320 fixed pitch 6a, I've noticed that the #1 cyl has run
> noticeably cooler in both EGT and CHT than the others with #3 being
> consistently hotter in CHT. The EGT on #1 was sometimes 100 or more
> degrees cooler than the rest but sometimes within 30 degrees or so.
The
> inconsistency is more troubling that the actual figures.
>
> I've been experimenting with blocking part of the airflow to #1 with
> metal tape to see if I can get #3 to run cooler. This has worked quite
> well, bringing #1's temp up to within a few degrees of #s 2 and 4 and
> bringing #3's down to within about 20 or 30 degrees of the pack. This
is
> gratifying. I've only flown it a couple of hours with the latest tape
> job, so the figures are preliminary. If they hold up, I'll make a more
> permanent shield from sheet metal.
>
> There was, however an unexpected rise in the EGT of #1 bringing it
into
> line with the others. The spread is now much smaller with #1 usually
not
> the lowest anymore. I'm not complaining. I'm just mystified. Was the
> cylinder running so cool that breathing or combustion was somehow
> inhibited?
>
> Anybody have a good explanation for this?
>
> Ed Holyoke
> Co-owner RV-6a N79WH
> RV-6 N86ED (reserved)
>
>
==
==
==
==
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Performance Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
I am just hoping our pilot and builder brothers and sisters are ok
and they are safe , I can't imagine spending 3-10
years building my dream plane and it going to rubble in a matter of
minutes / hours in a storm, although I live on
the gulf coast also, ( I have seen the damage these things can do )
only mother nature can tell where these things
can go.. I just wanted to wish all the florida people the best and I
hope everyones family is ok..
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Performance Engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 8/14/2004 10:50:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> rv6_flyer@hotmail.com writes:
>
> My aircraft will be 7 years old in September. Some of this engine work
goes
>
> back 10 years. I was able to purchase a WRECKED airplane for $2,600.
That
> is how I got the engine in my RV. The engine was balanced, "blue
printed",
> and rebuilt to NEW specs. Total time on engine is now over 4,500 hours.
>
>
> ========================================
>
> After watching the news last night it looks as though there will be a few
> more wrecked planes in Florida that will help engine availability for RVs.
> It's one of those bad news good news things.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
>
>
Message 18
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: plaurence@the-beach.net
Listers,
Has anyone sanded the gelcoat off the fiberglass end caps on
the rudder, verticle
stab ect. I know that gelcoat tends to crack after a period
of time.
Any advice on this is appreciated
Peter
RV9A
waiting for wings
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
OK, these pieces rise vertically from teh horizontal intake ramps, rest
against the front of the front cylinders, and reach all the way up the
vertical surfaces of the cylinders. There are two pieces per side, the inner
one has a slight curve to follow the fins of the cylinder barrel itself,
while the outer one shields the cylinder head. they are rivetted to aluminum
angle that is also rivetted to the inlet ramps.
Some builders leave them out, I don't know what the percentages are.
I don';t know what dynamic is at work to change the EGT. While there must be
some relationship between the CHT and EGT, perhaps the EGT probe was getting
some cooling from the baffle system before you changed the airflow, but I
would think that would be a longshot.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: EGT/CHT question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
> Scott,
>
> I haven't even looked at that area of the plans. Come to think of it, I
> don't believe I have the baffle drawings. We didn't build this plane and
> mine isn't that far along yet. So far I've just put metal tape on the
> front of the #1 cyl and head about an inch high as a temporary air dam.
> We can do something more permanent once we're sure how much air to
> block.
>
> I expected this to raise the CHT on #1, but I don't understand why the
> EGT went up as well.
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
> Co-owner RV-6a N79WH
> RV-6 N86ED (reserved)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
> Jackson
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: EGT/CHT question
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
> <jayeandscott@telus.net>
>
> Do you have the front cylinder-temperature raising plates installed as
> per
> the baffle drawings?
> Scott in Vancouver
> going out to look at the parking brake valve....
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
> To: <SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RV-List: EGT/CHT question
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
> >
> >
> > Engine gurus,
> >
> > I know that high EGTs can lead to high CHTs. Can a semi-inverse
> > relationship exist as well?
> >
> > In our O-320 fixed pitch 6a, I've noticed that the #1 cyl has run
> > noticeably cooler in both EGT and CHT than the others with #3 being
> > consistently hotter in CHT. The EGT on #1 was sometimes 100 or more
> > degrees cooler than the rest but sometimes within 30 degrees or so.
> The
> > inconsistency is more troubling that the actual figures.
> >
> > I've been experimenting with blocking part of the airflow to #1 with
> > metal tape to see if I can get #3 to run cooler. This has worked quite
> > well, bringing #1's temp up to within a few degrees of #s 2 and 4 and
> > bringing #3's down to within about 20 or 30 degrees of the pack. This
> is
> > gratifying. I've only flown it a couple of hours with the latest tape
> > job, so the figures are preliminary. If they hold up, I'll make a more
> > permanent shield from sheet metal.
> >
> > There was, however an unexpected rise in the EGT of #1 bringing it
> into
> > line with the others. The spread is now much smaller with #1 usually
> not
> > the lowest anymore. I'm not complaining. I'm just mystified. Was the
> > cylinder running so cool that breathing or combustion was somehow
> > inhibited?
> >
> > Anybody have a good explanation for this?
> >
> > Ed Holyoke
> > Co-owner RV-6a N79WH
> > RV-6 N86ED (reserved)
> >
> >
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: brake cylinder springs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
I had this problem when I first flew my 6, and it took quite a bit of
troubleshooting to find the problem.
In my case, I'm ashamed to admit that both wheels had become slightly loose
and where wobbling enough to drag the brake disc on the pads.
How this happened, I don't know, I was so careful to adjust the bearing
preload just right, like I've done many times before.
only found it when I jacked up the wheel and rocked it from side-to-side,
and it didn't move much, but it hadn't had any sideplay when I assembled it
the first time.
Took ten hours of flying to track it down, then it's been fine for the 140
hours put on since.
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: brake cylinder springs
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 8/15/2004 7:25:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> Knicholas2@aol.com writes:
>
> Hi all! I am having trouble with dragging brakes in my newly flying 9A.
> The
> pedals have full and free motion but they still drag. I read in the
> archives
> about replacing the return springs with longer-stronger ones. THe
question:
>
> how easy (difficult?) and messy of a job is that? I am finding it
harder
> and harder to climb under that panel!!!
>
>
> =======================================
>
> Hire a small flexible person to do it, but definitely get it done. I
still
> believe that the real problem with the springs that came on my cylinders
> wasn't that they were any shorter, but that the wire used was not properly
heat
> treated and so they were yielding or "sacking out" as a result of
actuating
> them with no fluid occasionally prior to installation.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Matco Parking Brake Valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
You're obviously a much-better builder than me. My parking brake just
appeared from VAn's in a paper bag, nothing else with it. I figured that the
lever let fluid through when it was in-line with the valve, and blocked it
when it was at 90 degrees to the valve.
I installed it that way, with lever stops, and it actually worked, except
for having to play with pedal pressures to get it to release.
Even included a microswitch that illuminated a "park Brake" annunciator on
the panel whenever the lever was off the in-line stop,so we wouldn't try to
go anywhere with the valve at any position other than full-open.
Guess it was just s...house luck that it's worked this long, and that we
never landed with the brakes locked on.
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Matco Parking Brake Valve
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
>
> We have the Matco valve too. When I looked at the drawing to figure out
the
> travel, I was most surprised that the valve has no internal stops. I
decided
> to make positive stops for mine externally. Check it out at
> http://home.comcast.net/~mtaylo17/RV7/ on the fuselage page, about a third
> of the way down.
>
> Mark.
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Emergency Parachutes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
Ah, if it were so easy!
Why, we'd all be equipped with cartridge starters, I'm sure.
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>
> Remember our motto. "There's no problem in the world that can't be
> solved with enough explosives".
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jaye and Scott
> Jackson
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
> <jayeandscott@telus.net>
>
> Sam:
> As per the writeup on the WWWing webpage, I replaced the hardware that
> holds the front of the canopy frame to the track rollers with quick
> release
> hitch pins of the same diameter. These are also known as tractor pins in
> farm supply stores.
> I figured I could unlatch the canopy, pull these two pins, slide it
> enough
> to have the overhead latching arm clear the rollover frame, then provide
> just enough of a lift at the front to get the airflow underneath,
> instead of
> having the airflow on the top pushing the canopy forward and downwards,
> which it apparently does.
> If anyone has done it before, and found the effort of raising the
> canopy a
> couple of inches too great, I'm playing with the idea of two
> lever-operated
> cams, that would pull aft and down, acting upon the canopy track, to
> provide
> the necessary force.
> Safer than, but not as much bang as, det. cord glued to the canopy
> around
> the edges, which would surely work.
> Scott in Vancouver
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Emergency Parachutes
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> >
> > Jaye and Scott Jackson wrote:
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
> <jayeandscott@telus.net>
> > >
> > > Although I fly an RV-6, I have two chutes.
> > <snip>
> >
> >
> > Scott, what is your plan for dealing with the RV-6 canopy if you
> decide
> > you need to exit the plane while airborne?
> >
> > Sam Buchanan
> >
> >
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
Message 23
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
Peter, MO....don't waste your time sanding off the gelcoat on the items you
mention. The gelcoat 'can' and 'will' crack in areas where it is
stressed.....and those areas do not stress. But, when you get to the air inlets
of the cowl
.....be sure to get rid of the gel coat. That area is under continuous stress
and WILL crack if left on.....just look at any RV with the 'old' style cowls.
Rick Gray RV6 O-360 Hartzell in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
for the archives
Has anyone sanded the gelcoat off the fiberglass end caps on
the rudder, verticle
stab ect. I know that gelcoat tends to crack after a period
of time.
Any advice on this is appreciated
Peter
RV9A
waiting for wings
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | EGT/CHT question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Hey Scott,
Thanks for the description of the front cylinder temperature raising
plates. I've covered perhaps 1/2 the vertical surface of the front of
the cylinder and head with metal tape. Cylinders # 2 and 4 are so
similar in temps that I don't think it needs one on that side. I'll go
through the drawings we got with the airplane and see if there's a
baffle plan there.
By the way, I was looking at a Maule with an O-320 and it has flexible
baffle seal material laid up against the front of the cylinders on both
sides from the factory as a sort of air dam.
Ed
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
<jayeandscott@telus.net>
OK, these pieces rise vertically from teh horizontal intake ramps, rest
against the front of the front cylinders, and reach all the way up the
vertical surfaces of the cylinders. There are two pieces per side, the
inner
one has a slight curve to follow the fins of the cylinder barrel
itself,
while the outer one shields the cylinder head. they are rivetted to
aluminum
angle that is also rivetted to the inlet ramps.
Some builders leave them out, I don't know what the percentages are.
I don';t know what dynamic is at work to change the EGT. While there
must be
some relationship between the CHT and EGT, perhaps the EGT probe was
getting
some cooling from the baffle system before you changed the airflow, but
I
would think that would be a longshot.
Scott
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
On August 1, 2004, at 1850 central daylight time, a Lancair 2000, N98SN,
collided with a light post and the terrain during an off airport landing in
Madison, Wisconsin,
Well,
Not sure what Madison was like at 1800, but at 1200 that day I wouldn't have
flown there, and in fact didn't. That was the mother and father of embedded
cell systems to the north and south of central wisconsin and the IA/MN
border. We did find a big west bound hole right on that border, but it
closed as we went through it. Had a bolt land between myself and the other
aircraft when we were a few hundred yards apart.
There is some idication that they were having engine trouble, and the
chelton FDC/EDC was recovered intact.
RE NTSB Reports. There was one about a kitfox incident at Arlington. Since I
was right there helping to remove the aircraft from the boo boo site it was
amazing to see how badly they messed it up. The only two things that were
reasonably accurate were the aircraft make and the airport.
I do have to say that I am on the top of the "Fear and other emotions make
me do stupid things" list. I would also suggest that one can easily become
IMC without ever flying into a cloud. Been there, done that, bought the tee
shirt and had it canned.
But I now know a few more things to consider during flight preparation that
might help me to avoid a repeat.
All that said, it is always a blessing when one of us makes a mistake, and
both lives to learn from it and learns to live from it.
W
Message 26
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| Subject: | Airtech Wingtip lens kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
I noticed several rv's at Oshkosh had installed nav lights, strobes and
landing lights in a very neat looking flush mounted wingtip lens. I assume these
are probably the Airtech Wingtip lens kits sold by Van's.
Any comments on difficulty of installation, problems in service? I'm
considering installing these versus the nav light extensions/leading edge landing
&
taxi light kit as I did on my RV-8A.
Walt Shipley 100 + hours on RV-8A
Beginning constructions of RV-8 QB
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: loose wheel bearings was brake cylinder springs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Scott,
It's very likely that you didn't do anything wrong. The tapered roller
bearings wear slightly when new. This is part of their "break in" process.
You should re check the bearing adjustment at some point in your 25 - 40
hour Phase 1 test period. After that, I'd check them at 100 hour intervals.
Remember, wheel bearings are a "wear" item. The wear is small, but it
exists. It's normal to have to re-adjust them from time to time.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
><jayeandscott@telus.net>
>
>I had this problem when I first flew my 6, and it took quite a bit of
>troubleshooting to find the problem.
>In my case, I'm ashamed to admit that both wheels had become slightly loose
>and where wobbling enough to drag the brake disc on the pads.
>How this happened, I don't know, I was so careful to adjust the bearing
>preload just right, like I've done many times before.
>only found it when I jacked up the wheel and rocked it from side-to-side,
>and it didn't move much, but it hadn't had any sideplay when I assembled it
>the first time.
>Took ten hours of flying to track it down, then it's been fine for the 140
>hours put on since.
>Scott in Vancouver
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: brake cylinder springs
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 8/15/2004 7:25:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > Knicholas2@aol.com writes:
> >
> > Hi all! I am having trouble with dragging brakes in my newly flying 9A.
> > The
> > pedals have full and free motion but they still drag. I read in the
> > archives
> > about replacing the return springs with longer-stronger ones. THe
>question:
> >
> > how easy (difficult?) and messy of a job is that? I am finding it
>harder
> > and harder to climb under that panel!!!
>snipped
Message 28
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| Subject: | loose wheel bearings was brake cylinder springs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> Remember, wheel bearings are a "wear" item. The wear is small, but it
> exists. It's normal to have to re-adjust them from time to
> time. Charlie Kuss
Properly lubricated, clean and adjusted wheel bearings virtually do not
wear, they should be good for hundreds of thousands of taxi miles. That
said, if they don't have proper preload, they will indeed wear, and wear
fast. Roller bearings are designed to have a line contact with their
races. If not adjusted properly, the contact area becomes a point -
ouch. Often what happens to cause slop in the system is that there is a
little bit of dirt in the contact area of the adjusting nut when the
initial adjustment occurs. This dirt goes away soon, leaving slop. The
best way to set up roller bearings is to tighten significantly while
constantly rotating the wheel (crushing any debris preventing full
seating). This tightening should cause noticable drag fighting the
rotation. Then, back off the torque until the bearing is loose, and
re-snug the nut until the play is gone and add perhaps 10 degrees more
tightening on the nut.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 113 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Airtech Wingtip lens kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
Does the RV8 use the " NOT FOR USE on Sheared Wing Tips. I thought all the
wings these days were of that type.. ?
I am going to ask the list, whats the best plug and play wingtip
strobe/position/landing wingtip setup ? who makes it?
----- Original Message -----
From: <RVEIGHTA@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Airtech Wingtip lens kit
> --> RV-List message posted by: RVEIGHTA@aol.com
>
> I noticed several rv's at Oshkosh had installed nav lights, strobes and
> landing lights in a very neat looking flush mounted wingtip lens. I assume
these
> are probably the Airtech Wingtip lens kits sold by Van's.
>
> Any comments on difficulty of installation, problems in service? I'm
> considering installing these versus the nav light extensions/leading edge
landing &
> taxi light kit as I did on my RV-8A.
>
> Walt Shipley 100 + hours on RV-8A
> Beginning constructions of RV-8 QB
>
>
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
What is "gel coat"? I've fit my empennage tips and they are smooth white,
as they came from Van's. Is the white finish "gel coat"?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: <RGray67968@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: gelcoat
> --> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
>
> Peter, MO....don't waste your time sanding off the gelcoat on the items
you
> mention. The gelcoat 'can' and 'will' crack in areas where it is
> stressed.....and those areas do not stress. But, when you get to the air
inlets of the cowl
> ......be sure to get rid of the gel coat. That area is under continuous
stress
> and WILL crack if left on.....just look at any RV with the 'old' style
cowls.
> Rick Gray RV6 O-360 Hartzell in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
> for the archives
> Has anyone sanded the gelcoat off the fiberglass end caps on
> the rudder, verticle
> stab ect. I know that gelcoat tends to crack after a period
> of time.
>
> Any advice on this is appreciated
>
>
> Peter
> RV9A
> waiting for wings
>
>
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Yes. Earlier fglass stuff from Vans was gell coated, the later stuff is
pre-preg expoxy w/out gell coat. Gell coat adds weight but reduces the
amount of finishing work to get a smooth surface.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
Is the white finish "gel coat"?
>
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Not RV Related, and real long - delete as you see fit, Was RE: |
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!
--> RV-List message posted by: Christopher J Fortin <cjfortin@juno.com>
Jerry Springer wrote:
>Chris
>This is a public F U to the personal email you sent me. I suggest if
>things here bother you so bad you find another
>list to join. I guess I really don't need to be here after all I have
>been flying my RV-6 for over 15 years, so I guess you
>are right I should just go somewhere else myself.
Jerry,
I guess you're hell bent on airing this in a public forum. I don't
understand why, but you get your wish. But lets put all the cards on the
table. Its not fair to only see one side of the story.
I wrote:
"Ah Jerry. You've been doing so "well" since our talks back in December.
But don't let this little slip get you down. Just like AA says, "One day
at a time".
I'm sorry that you feel the official guidelines shouldn't include the
rule "DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal." I guess Matt should have
passed that by you for your approval before he started "HIS" lists. I
must admit though, you've got quite a set of balls to think that way. I
guess you could always start up a list of your own. Then you could make
all the rules."
Your response to this is noted above. SO, where do I begin. I don't want
to find another list to join. I subscribe to enough right now. True, I do
get a little bothered by the lack of discipline shown here from time to
time. For the most part, I don't see these problems on other lists.
Nowhere in the post did I say you shouldn't be here or that you should go
somewhere else. Read it carefully. I said you could make up any rules you
want if you started your "own" list. You should be proud that you've been
flying your plane for >15 yrs. I know your always saying you were the
first to complete that model kit. That is quite an accomplishment. Having
never seen your plane I don't know if that means you rushed through it to
complete it, or what. So I can't judge that.
I may not agree with a lot of things you say (as evidenced from some of
our previous discussions, see below), but I have stored away some of your
ideas for future use. I don't want to see you leave, just simply play by
the rules.
Chris Fortin
N813CJ reserved
Do not archive
This is where it all began.
RV-list message posted by: Jerry Springer<jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
If people are so thinned skinned that they let a few off topic posts
bother them then
they should maybe find another means of getting information. Lets see
yesterday there
was some good information posted about...Empty weights, Vortex
generators, batteries,
tools, prop performance, cabin heat fuel tank testing, etc. Now if
someone cannot find
any good in any of these topics and can only criticize a topic such as
the Wright Flyer
topic then they are not looking for good information only to gripe. If
the person that did
not like the off topic had posted a valid question instead of complaining
then I am sure
he would have gotten all the help he could ever want.
do not archive
Jerry
Jerry,
The point is - if its an off topic question/answer your going to reply
to, why not take it off list. Why should everybody have to read it. Do
you conduct a conference call with all your neighbors when you call
someone? I agree with others that the list is here for a specific
purpose. These side bars need to go away.
Chris Fortin
N813CJ reserved
On Thu, 04 Dec 2003 18:29:12 -0800 Jerry
Springerjsflyrv@earthlink.net>writes:
You are entitled to your opinions, I just do not happen to agree with
you. This is not like a conference call, this is like a gathering at you
local hanger. If you want to restrict this to building tips and help only
you well lose a lot of people that are already done building or people
like me. I have been flying my RV-6 for 15 years and have been on the
list since 1994. The same questions asked over and over again can be
boring so there needs to be a little color added once in a while...good
luck with your project.
Jerry,
You missed the point I was trying to convey. I just wish that you would
take "your" replies to the off topic subjects off list. I'm not
interested in hearing them, as are many others. Why is it you feel the
need to include everyone on the list when your reply is being directed to
a specific individual. I'm sorry that you find the same questions being
asked over and over again, boring. I thought the list existed to help
people with issues regarding building and flying RVs. Not everybody
started at the same time so I would expect that these questions would
return time and time again. Below you will find the guidelines that apply
to the list. It looks pretty straightforward to me. Just wish people
would abide by them. It would certainly cut down on the clutter.
Chris Fortin
N813CJ reserved
Do not archive
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules
therein. Failure to use the RV-List in the manner described below may
result in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RV-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RV-List is to provide a forum of discussion for things
related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals are to
serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver high-quality
content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie among its
members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals requires
the participation and cooperation of each and every member of the List.
To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long lost
buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line about
where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid bulky
signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary space in the
archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the web
page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of your
response the same as that of the original post. This makes it easy to
find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that quoting
the entire original post has on the size of the archive cannot be
overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT then
go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the "reply"
button on your mail package does not necessarily send your response to
the original poster. You might have to actively address your response
with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something to
add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I agree",
and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent to the
original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone polite
and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack other
listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously controversial
issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that will hurt feelings,
waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
On Fri, 05 Dec 2003 19:43:12 -0800 Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
writes:
Funny, I don't see your name on the list of financial contributors to the
list anywhere in Matts list of contributors. I sure hope you write to the
guy that posted how many "RV's to change a light bulb" After all he is
just wasting your time by writing that. It is obvious you are new here so
learn to lighten up and get to know the people that post to the list. I
have made a whole bunch of really great friends through this list. I have
been to Matt Dralles house and taken him for a ride in my RV-6. I did the
Beta testing for his FuelChek fuel computer. Lighten up Chris and you
well be happier.
Jerry
Jerry,
I guess I will address the points in your reply and then maybe you will
finally answer my questions.
- "It is obvious you are new here so learn to lighten up and get to know
the people that post to the list."
Your right, I am new to the list. Been here for less than a year.
- "I sure hope you write to the guy that posted how many "RV's to change
a light bulb"."
I must have missed that post. But I have in the past replied to others
when the clutter exceeded my tolerance level.
- "Funny, I don't see your name on the list of financial contributors to
the list anywhere in Matts list of contributors."
Your right about this one also. I assume that you bring this up as a way
to justify that you have a vested interest in the list. This somehow
gives you the right to disregard the general rules that were set up to
guide the behavior of the participants. I guess if I made a financial
contribution I would be entitled to more of a say in the list conduct.
- "I have been to Matt Dralles house and taken him for a ride in my
RV-6. I did the Beta testing for his FuelChek fuel computer.
Ah, is this more justification for your disregard of the guidelines.
"He's my personal friend and he owes me for the beta testing."
Ok lets get to my questions. Below are excerpts from the list guidelines
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV-List. You
are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RV-List in the manner described below may result in
the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RV-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RV-List is to provide a forum of discussion for things
related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals are to
serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver high-quality
content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie among its
members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals requires
the participation and cooperation of each and every member of the List.
To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT then
go ahead and reply to the List.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something to
add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I agree",
and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent to the
original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
Questions:
1. After reading these guidelines, do you feel it is correct to post a
reply to an off topic subject to the entire list instead of the
individual you are writing to?
2. Do you agree the list guidelines apply to you in the same manner as me
even though I have no vested monetary interest.
3. Do you think that all the flaming that gets perpetuated by posting to
the entire list would be lessened if everybody wasn't bombarded with it
and felt the need to jump on the bandwagon? Is this how we are suppose to
promote moral support and camaraderie?
4. Do you think I have the right to expect that people will follow these
guidelines as intended by Matt?
I'll leave the questions at that.
One other thing, I assume that in your 2 previous responses you meant to
use the word "will" instead of "well", because well is not really a verb.
See definitions below. "Lighten up Chris and you well be happier." "If
you want to restrict this to building tips and help only you well lose a
lot of people that are already done building or people like me."
well (noun)
1. A deep hole or shaft sunk into the earth to obtain water, oil,
gas, or brine.
2. A container or reservoir for a liquid, such as ink.
c. A place where water issues from the earth; a spring or fountain.
d. A mineral spring.
e. wells A watering place; a spa.
f. An abundant source: a well of information.
g. An open space extending vertically through the floors of a
building, as for stairs or ventilation.
well (adverb)
1. In a good or proper manner: behaved well.
2. Skillfully or proficiently: dances well.
3. Satisfactorily or sufficiently: slept well.
4. Successfully or effectively: gets along well with people.
5. In a comfortable or affluent manner: lived well.
6. In a manner affording benefit or gain; advantageously: married
well.
7. With reason or propriety; reasonably: can't very well say no.
8. In all likelihood; indeed: You may well need your umbrella.
will (aux verb past tense)
1. Used to indicate simple futurity: They will appear later.
2. Used to indicate likelihood or certainty: You will regret this.
3. Used to indicate willingness: Will you help me with this package?
4. Used to indicate requirement or command: You will report to me
afterward.
5. Used to indicate intention: I will too if I feel like it.
6. Used to indicate customary or habitual action: People will talk.
7. Used to indicate capacity or ability: This metal will not crack
under heavy pressure.
8. Used to indicate probability or expectation: That will be the
messenger ringing.
I'll overlook the "you" instead of "your" in the following sentence.
"This is not like a conference call, this is like a gathering at you
local hanger."
Chris Fortin
N813CJ reserved
Do not archive
On Sat, 06 Dec 2003 13:13:51 -0800 Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
writes:
I have a good idea how to end this Chris and that is for you to go FUCK
yourself. DO NOT PRIVATE EMAIL ME AGAIN, ALL OTHER POSTS FROM YOU
***WELL*** BE POSTED PUBLICLY. Apparently I am not as learned as you are
nor am I as good at spelling or typing as you. It must really be great to
be perfect, just to bad your tolerance level is so low. BTW how ides it
feel to be a cheapscape and a jerk at the same time?
Jerry
Jerry,
Well, I guess that answering your questions was not enough to elicit a
civil response to mine. I can only assume that you do not have the
courage to admit the shortcomings in your ability to follow a "simple"
set of rules that were set up for everyone. Maybe I'm being a little
harsh on you. Having spent a good deal of my life in the military where
you are required to follow rules, I sometimes forget others are not up to
the task. I can only imagine what a joy it must have been to have you as
a student. And as far as being not as learned as me, all you need is a
high school education.
I never claimed to be perfect. This is an idea that you have formulated.
I would probably attribute this to feelings of inadequacy and a product
of low self-esteem. Feel free to put this into a public forum if you
desire. I would expect nothing less of you, as this is what prompted this
whole discussion, "the fact that you cannot seem to take things off the
list". I seriously doubt that you will because others would then be privy
to your shortcomings. God only knows how people on the list would react
to this farce. I imagine that plenty would jump on the bandwagon with
very witty remarks. I have a thick skin but have doubts about yours. But
I see that this conversation is falling on deaf ears. Your behavior has
not changed after having it brought to your attention. You are still
jumping on the bandwagon as evidenced with one of your latest posts.(see
below)
One last question. What does it cost to not be a cheapskate (not
cheapscape, yes a joy indeed) / jerk and disregard the list rules? If
its not a lot. I might consider it. LOL
Chris Fortin
N813CJ reserved
Do not archive
Time: 04:31:14 AM PST US
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: Cockpit "Audio out" to
videocamera
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
my my I think we all should send this this person a nice friendly
e-mail. LOL
do not archive
HereBostonTim@aol.com wrote
Jerry Springer wrote:
[snip]
>Other words you don't like it when other people voice their opinions? No
>one has told Jeff not to
>try to design it for an RV. I believe he also can learn a lot form the
>differing opinions out there.
>Your "loss" to move to a list that only has ideas that agree with yours.
>I am sure he can also use
>the feedback to determine what his market would be. There is probably a
>good representation
>of RV builders and flyers here.
>Jerry
>do not archive
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: loose wheel bearings was brake cylinder springs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
Excellent advice, and thank you for forwarding it.
I was probably treating the wheel bearings as if they're the ones on our
'78 Suburban, which seems to thrive on neglect and refuses to die....
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: loose wheel bearings was brake cylinder springs
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> Scott,
> It's very likely that you didn't do anything wrong. The tapered roller
> bearings wear slightly when new. This is part of their "break in" process.
> You should re check the bearing adjustment at some point in your 25 - 40
> hour Phase 1 test period. After that, I'd check them at 100 hour
intervals.
> Remember, wheel bearings are a "wear" item. The wear is small, but it
> exists. It's normal to have to re-adjust them from time to time.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson"
> ><jayeandscott@telus.net>
> >
> >I had this problem when I first flew my 6, and it took quite a bit of
> >troubleshooting to find the problem.
> >In my case, I'm ashamed to admit that both wheels had become slightly
loose
> >and where wobbling enough to drag the brake disc on the pads.
> >How this happened, I don't know, I was so careful to adjust the bearing
> >preload just right, like I've done many times before.
> >only found it when I jacked up the wheel and rocked it from side-to-side,
> >and it didn't move much, but it hadn't had any sideplay when I assembled
it
> >the first time.
> >Took ten hours of flying to track it down, then it's been fine for the
140
> >hours put on since.
> >Scott in Vancouver
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: brake cylinder springs
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
> > >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 8/15/2004 7:25:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > > Knicholas2@aol.com writes:
> > >
> > > Hi all! I am having trouble with dragging brakes in my newly flying
9A.
> > > The
> > > pedals have full and free motion but they still drag. I read in the
> > > archives
> > > about replacing the return springs with longer-stronger ones. THe
> >question:
> > >
> > > how easy (difficult?) and messy of a job is that? I am finding it
> >harder
> > > and harder to climb under that panel!!!
> >snipped
>
>
Message 34
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|
Was RE": !!!@CONGRATULATIONS.and.WELL.DONE.UUCP
| Subject: | Re: Not RV Related, and real long - delete as you see fit, |
Was RE: CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
OK, I normally stay out of these things, but I feel compelled to get my
$.02 in here:
Chris- Get a life!
Jerry- Give 'em hell!
Matt- do not archive!
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Not RV Related, and real long - delete as you see fit, Was |
RE: ...
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
GIVE IT A REST!
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final assembly
Message 36
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| Subject: | Not RV Related, and real long - delete as you see fit, Was |
RE: CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
DITTO!!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Point
CONGRATULATIONS.and.WELL.DONE!!!!@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Not RV Related, and real long - delete as you see
fit, Was RE: CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
OK, I normally stay out of these things, but I feel compelled to get my
$.02 in here:
Chris- Get a life!
Jerry- Give 'em hell!
Matt- do not archive!
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
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