Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:01 AM - Re: Saw this engine on Ebay (Bob 1)
2. 04:38 AM - Question for the aerodynamycists (Richard Bibb)
3. 05:40 AM - Re: Saw this engine on Ebay (Steve & Denise)
4. 05:50 AM - Re: Saw this engine on Ebay (Ronnie Brown)
5. 06:07 AM - Re: Re: Saw this engine on Ebay (Richard Bibb)
6. 06:20 AM - RV-8 Canopy Track Question (Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com)
7. 06:42 AM - Re: Parachutes, any record (bertrv6@highstream.net)
8. 06:42 AM - Re: Saw this engine on Ebay (Bill VonDane)
9. 07:16 AM - Re: RV-8 Canopy Track Question (Tailgummer@aol.com)
10. 07:34 AM - RV8 one piece wings skins (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
11. 07:38 AM - Re: RV-8 Canopy Track Question (David E. Nelson)
12. 08:56 AM - Re: RV8 one piece wings skins (WFACT01@aol.com)
13. 09:03 AM - Re: Propeller balance (Laird Owens)
14. 09:09 AM - Re: Re: Saw this engine on Ebay (Phil Birkelbach)
15. 09:37 AM - Re: RV8 one piece wings skins (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
16. 10:50 AM - Re: Question for the aerodynamycists (Greg Milner)
17. 10:54 AM - Re: Parachutes, any record (RV_8 Pilot)
18. 10:55 AM - 46 states trip picture (Wheeler North)
19. 11:26 AM - Re: Re: Saw this engine on Ebay (Bartrim, Todd)
20. 12:55 PM - Compass liquid (Matthew Brandes)
21. 01:09 PM - Re: Compass liquid (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
22. 01:20 PM - Re: Compass liquid (Chuck)
23. 02:46 PM - Re: Compass liquid (Rhett Westerman)
24. 03:30 PM - Floor Standing Pneumatic Dimpler... (Matt Johnson)
25. 05:40 PM - Re: Compass liquid (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
26. 06:01 PM - Re: Compass liquid (David Burton)
27. 06:42 PM - Re: Floor Standing Pneumatic Dimpler... (not processed: message from valid local sender) (Fred Kunkel)
28. 07:01 PM - Re: Compass liquid (Wayne R. Couture)
29. 08:31 PM - Buying a used engine (Eustace Bowhay)
30. 08:31 PM - Re: Park brake (Richard E. Tasker)
31. 10:10 PM - don't want the engine to fall off. (thomas a. sargent)
32. 10:10 PM - Re: RV8 one piece wings skins (Charlie Kuss)
33. 11:20 PM - Re: don't want the engine to fall off. (Jim Jewell)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Saw this engine on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" <rv3a@comcast.net>
>
> Great for a low budget bird:
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?viewItem&rd=1&item=2487056705&category=26437
>
> if the link doesn't work, go to ebay and put the item number into the
search
> window:
>
> 2487056705
>
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The H2AD series of engines have a less than stellar history.
Let the buyer beware.
Bob
Message 2
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| Subject: | Question for the aerodynamycists |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Bibb" <rebibb@comcast.net>
I am going to install a NACA vent on the side of the forward fuselage on the
RV-4 I am rebuilding. I am thinking of installing it right below the cowl
cheek angled downward so that the longitudinal axis of the vent is parallel
to the logitudnal axis of the cowl cheek extension. My thought is the
pressure will be positive in this area and will result in good positive
airflow into the vent (this will be for fresh air ventilation to the front
cockpit).
I assume that the left side will be best for airflow given the vortex
generated by the propeller but the right side would be best for internal
routing of the scat tubing as there is no throttle and mixture control
cables to avoid.
Does it make an appreciable difference? As in most things the best idea
would be to try it to find out but that is not practical given the hole I
need to cut in the fuselage skin.
I'm looking for opinions and/or experience with this location. Is my
thinking sound or am I missing something?
Net, net - I'd like to install on the right but the left seems like a better
location. Which is best and will either work?
Richard
RV-4 N144KT - rising from he ashes of a 1998 landing in the trees at IGX.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Saw this engine on Ebay |
3.3 DATE_IN_FUTURE_12_24 Date: is 12 to 24 hours after Received: date
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
Exactly.
Why anybody would build a $60,000 airplane and finish it off with a $4000
engine is
beyond my reasoning.
The most important piece of the puzzle and I see way too many builders
trying to find
the cheapest they can get.
If I have to spend $35,000 to get a good engine either new or a very well
documented
log books then so be it. Wheres the checkbook?
If anyone buys an engine like this the amateur built warning sign should
include the price
paid for the engine in large capital letters.
As the saying goes: If you can't afford a good engine, you can't afford an
airplane.
Ebay is for digital camera batteries, not aircraft engines.
Steve
RV7A #2
70015
71629
> Time: 12:46:03 PM PST US
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Saw this engine on Ebay
> From: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
>
>
> Just an FYI on this Engine:
>
> It appears to have been involved in the following accident (based on the
> N-number on the aircraft logbook).
>
> http://www2.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id=20040803X01125&key=1
>
> On July 4, 2004, about 1700 eastern daylight time, a Cessna 172N, N10DJ,
> received substantial damage during the landing roll out at the Grand
Canyon
> Airport, Wellsboro, Pennsylvania. The certificated private pilot was not
> injured. Visual meteorological conditions prevailed, and the airplane was
not
> operating on a flight plan. The local personal flight, which departed
Cherry
> Springs Airport (5G6), Galeton, Pennsylvania, was conducted under 14 CFR
Part
> 91.
>
> According to a Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) inspector, the pilot
> elected to perform a precautionary landing at Grand Canyon Airport due to
> deteriorating weather conditions in the area. While landing on runway 28,
the
> airplane veered off the right side of the runway and impacted a hay bail.
>
> ...
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
> >
> >
> > Great for a low budget bird:
> >
> >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?viewItem&rd=1&item=2487056705&category=26437
> >
> > if the link doesn't work, go to ebay and put the item number into the
search
> > window:
> >
> > 2487056705
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Saw this engine on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
Please don't perpetuate the myths about this engine. I ran two of these O320-H2AD
engines to TBO on our 1977 Cessna 172N with ABSOLUTELY NO internal problems.
There were indeed problems with the early engines at a time when these engines
were not flying much due to the oil embargos of the 70's. I also have a
friend with this engine installed on his RV-7A, with over 500 trouble free hours
and he is very happy with it.
See the bottom of page http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/C172.ENGINES.html for more info on the truth (not myths) about this engine.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Saw this engine on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Bibb" <rebibb@comcast.net>
>
> Exactly.
>
> Why anybody would build a $60,000 airplane and finish it off with a $4000
> engine is
> beyond my reasoning.
>
A couple of reasons. The $3,500 is probably less than the value of the good
parts on the engine. Its less than the cost of a case alone, for example.
The H2D had a bad reputation as early versions had problems (can't remember
what they were but I think CAM and/or lifter related. Later serial numbers
fixed those problems and it became a very reliable engine.
For $3,500 youcould buy this engine and overhaul it by having the parts sent
out for yellow tag inpection and refurb/replace for 5-$15,000 depending on
what needed to be scrapped.
I'd have a hard time buying it sight unseen and would want to at least pull
the cylinders to get a look at the cam and dial the crank but it is a good
deal if anything major is salvageble.
But if you would rather convert cash to an new engine that is also a very
wise choice, maybe even a preferable one.
There has been a lot of talk on how much it cost to build one of these
things. That is inversely proportional to the amount of work you want to do
scrounging for deals on used stuff versus buying brand new out of the box.
Of course new is better, but a flying aircraft can be done safely and a heck
of a lot less cash out the door. Of course this assumes you pay yourself
the kind of wages tyrants the world over pay their minions...
Message 6
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| Subject: | RV-8 Canopy Track Question |
08/20/2004 09:12:07 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
I am in the process of putting my C-804 / C-805 rear slide track together
and have run into a question that I can't seem to find the answer to. The
plans indicate that the 805 should be countersunk on both sides for the AN
426 rivets. I don't understand what this means. How does one go about
driving the rivets on this assembly? I imagine that the shop head of the
rivet somehow nests inside the bottom countersink, but I don't see how to
drive the rivet down into a "funnel" shaped hole.
Don Alexander
RV-8 Half way there...seeing the light at the end of the dark tunnel
Message 7
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| Subject: | Parachutes, any record |
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Quoting RV_8 Pilot <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
> I wore a chute on first flights not for structural problems but for fire...
> and it's just one more option you have available should "something" happen.
>
> Bryan Jones -8
> www.LoneStarSquadron.com
> Houston, Texas
>
> >
> > I have notice, that some people use parachute on the first flight,some
> >do not. Is any actual record anywhere, of any RV breaking up, during
> >first
> >flight?
> >
> > Has any one, ever jumpped from an RV, using a parachute?
> >
> > I cannot find anything on this from the Rvator..or really a suggestions
> >as
> >to, if one should or should not wear parachute on first flight..
> >
> >
> Bryant: Thnaks for the reply, however, two things, what do you do in
case of fire, as you said, how can one open the canopy in flight, and when is
the fire bad enough to get to this situation?
Second I really would like to know if there is any record anywhere, as to
has any one ever, to use the word, egressed, from an rv in flight?
Thnaks
Bert
rv6a
Do Not archive>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Saw this engine on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Agreed... He had three (now just two) H2AD's running on RV's here and have
not had any problems with any of them... Use aeroshell oil (has the
additives) and fly regularly and you will not have any trouble...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado Springs
EAA Tech Counselor
www.vondane.com
www.rv8a.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Saw this engine on Ebay
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
>
> Please don't perpetuate the myths about this engine. I ran two of these
O320-H2AD engines to TBO on our 1977 Cessna 172N with ABSOLUTELY NO internal
problems. There were indeed problems with the early engines at a time when
these engines were not flying much due to the oil embargos of the 70's. I
also have a friend with this engine installed on his RV-7A, with over 500
trouble free hours and he is very happy with it.
>
> See the bottom of page
http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/C172.ENGINES.html for more info on the
truth (not myths) about this engine.
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Track Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tailgummer@aol.com
Don, it's reffered to as " double countersinking". Just countersink each
side as usual then select a rivet length shorter than you would use to produce
a
shop head and squeeze. Try it out on scrap to get a feel for the correct
length. The final result is a smooth surface on both sides. It might not be
perfect, but it will work.
John D'Onofrio
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV8 one piece wings skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
I just found out from Charlie Kuss, builder in Fl., that Vans now can
make for you single piece wing skins, .032 in stead of 025, for the RV8.
I am a little upset (OK A LOT) I did not know about this. Up charge is
some $50 or something, negligible shipping charge change.
Many of you probably know that when you sight down the wing of any RV
with 025 skins, you see the dip between the ribs. Unsightly. Weight
penalty is about 4lbs total for the plane using the 4 new skins. Im no
aerodynamicist but Ill bet that the speed increase is more than
negligible with the lack of distortion using the 032 skins.
I sure would have liked to have known this on the Super 8. I'd of taken
that penalty for strength in a heartbeat. Thought you all would find
this interesting.
I have not spoken to Vans yet about this so I can not confirm the cost
or availability.
I would also be interested in knowing what strength increase could be
expected from a change from 025 to 032 skins if anyone happens to know
(or swag) this off the top of their heads.
Regards,
Michael Stewart
All my list watching did not turn up this info. ARGH!
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy Track Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi Don,
This same technique was used to make the TE on the rudder (at least on my 7A).
The plans/instructions walked my through the procedure. The rivet was basically
back riveted to fill in the countersink.
Regards,
/\/elson
Austin, TX
RV-7A - Got the goo, ready to finish the tank
On Fri, 20 Aug 2004 Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
>
>
> I am in the process of putting my C-804 / C-805 rear slide track together
> and have run into a question that I can't seem to find the answer to. The
> plans indicate that the 805 should be countersunk on both sides for the AN
> 426 rivets. I don't understand what this means. How does one go about
> driving the rivets on this assembly? I imagine that the shop head of the
> rivet somehow nests inside the bottom countersink, but I don't see how to
> drive the rivet down into a "funnel" shaped hole.
>
> Don Alexander
> RV-8 Half way there...seeing the light at the end of the dark tunnel
>
>
--
~~ ** ~~ If you didn't learn anything when you broke it the 1st ~~ ** ~~
time, then break it again.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV8 one piece wings skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com
MIKE-VANS MADE MINE 6 YEARS AGO-WHAT IS A SUPER 8-TOM
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01@aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (Engine Runs, Taxi-Tests)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Propeller balance |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
David,
Hummingbird Rotorwing Services will do it at Whiteman (WHP).
John Balkin 818 897 1995
$155, and he says he has about a week lead time.
Also one at Cable (CCB).
Mike Hartman
(909) 624-5022
Don't know what his cost or availability is.
Good luck,
Laird
On Aug 19, 2004, at 2:54 PM, David L Ahrens wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: David L Ahrens <daviddla@juno.com>
>
> Hello all, I need some help in finding someone to Dynamic balance my
> propeller and engine. I have a RV-6A with about 75 hrs., 0-320
> engine,conical mounts, sensenich propeller. The local shops do not show
> much interest in doing the work. One doesn't want to touch a homebuilt
> and the other can't work me into his schedule. I live in Bakersfield,
> Ca.
> Anyone have a favorite shop within an hours flight time of Bakersfield?
> Thanks, David Ahrens
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Saw this engine on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
Wow, beyond reasoning? I don't think I'd consider a $4,000 engine much
more than a core but if it's a good core and the crank, cam and case are
good you're only about $8,000 away from a good rebuilt engine. If I had
been able to find an engine for $12,000 then I wouldn't have a $60,000
airplane I'd have a $40,000 airplane.
If it were me I think I'd start looking east. There are about to be a
bunch of perfectly good engines coming out of bent up airplanes in
Florida. A guy here in Houston built a $28,000 RV-6 (8 years ago) and
part of his secret was a hurricane engine.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Panel
http://www.myrv7.com
Steve & Denise wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
>
>Exactly.
>
>Why anybody would build a $60,000 airplane and finish it off with a $4000
>engine is
>beyond my reasoning.
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | RV8 one piece wings skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Oh great. Even better that I did not know this and it is 6 year old
news. Just perfect..
ARGH!!
Super 8 info here:
http://68.233.185.158:8080/michael/rv/index.htm
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of WFACT01@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 one piece wings skins
--> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com
MIKE-VANS MADE MINE 6 YEARS AGO-WHAT IS A SUPER 8-TOM
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01@aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (Engine Runs, Taxi-Tests)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
==
==
==
==
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Question for the aerodynamycists |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Milner" <tldrgred@execpc.com>
My -4 has one on the left side and works good until backing off the
throttle.
Red Milner
RV-4 N79KM
based @ UES
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Bibb" <rebibb@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Question for the aerodynamycists
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Bibb" <rebibb@comcast.net>
>
> I am going to install a NACA vent on the side of the forward fuselage on
the
> RV-4 I am rebuilding. I am thinking of installing it right below the cowl
> cheek angled downward so that the longitudinal axis of the vent is
parallel
> to the logitudnal axis of the cowl cheek extension. My thought is the
> pressure will be positive in this area and will result in good positive
> airflow into the vent (this will be for fresh air ventilation to the front
> cockpit).
>
> I assume that the left side will be best for airflow given the vortex
> generated by the propeller but the right side would be best for internal
> routing of the scat tubing as there is no throttle and mixture control
> cables to avoid.
>
> Does it make an appreciable difference? As in most things the best idea
> would be to try it to find out but that is not practical given the hole I
> need to cut in the fuselage skin.
>
> I'm looking for opinions and/or experience with this location. Is my
> thinking sound or am I missing something?
>
> Net, net - I'd like to install on the right but the left seems like a
better
> location. Which is best and will either work?
>
> Richard
> RV-4 N144KT - rising from he ashes of a 1998 landing in the trees at IGX.
>
>
> _____________________________________________________
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Parachutes, any record |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
I feel totally confident I could get out in the event of a fire. An -8
canopy can be opened in flight - not sure about any others. What would be
bad enough? Not sure. If there was fire in the cockpit, it wouldn't take
much to get me out. Inside the cowling - probably depends on how hot my
feet are getting and what kind of emergency landing spots are or the ground
below.
As for someone actually able to get out of the plane (RV-8), it is possible
and has happened. Unfortunately, a contributor to the list, Mr. Von
Alexander, exited the plane without a parachute and did not survive. As I
remember the discussions, it wasn't exactly clear as to why he had the
canopy open and was unstrapped. Check the archives here and NTSB records
for more info.
http://www2.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id=20001212X19358&key=1
Bryan Jones -8
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
> > Bryant: Thnaks for the reply, however, two things, what do you do
>in
>case of fire, as you said, how can one open the canopy in flight, and when
>is
>the fire bad enough to get to this situation?
>
>Second I really would like to know if there is any record anywhere, as to
>has any one ever, to use the word, egressed, from an rv in flight?
>
>
>Thnaks
>
>Bert
>
Message 18
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"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@matronics.com
| Subject: | 46 states trip picture |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
The following link is to a relatively obscure means to log evidence of
landings on this last trip around the US.
You may notice on a few that I forgot to take a picture of the plane on the
ground... duh.
http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/usa
as usual, reconnect the link if it gets split. Its a 1 mg file so be patient
if you are on a phone line.
w
do not archive
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Saw this engine on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bartrim, Todd" <Steve.Bartrim@canfor.com>
> If I have to spend $35,000 to get a good engine either new or a very well
> documented
> log books then so be it. Wheres the checkbook?
>
> If anyone buys an engine like this the amateur built warning sign should
> include the price
> paid for the engine in large capital letters.
>
> As the saying goes: If you can't afford a good engine, you can't afford an
> airplane.
>
>
Whoaa! I try to stay out of things like this but.... Is aviation the
exclusive domain of the rich and privileged? $35,000 is more than some people
make in a year. Does this mean they have no business building an airplane? There
are other alternatives and buying this engine as a core for rebuild may be
an affordable alternative for some.
Not all builders have an unlimited chequebook allowing them to quickly
assemble a quickbuild plane. Some whom could afford it, still prefer to build
every piece themselves, which may include rebuilding the engine. They may be capable
of superior workmanship... would they still require a warning sign including
engine price posted on their aircraft?
I was able to find my low time 13B engine core for $160CAD. How does that
make you feel?... no wait, I really don't give a damn. I don't want to start
a flame war here, but just want to make sure we don't climb too high on our
aviation pedestal as this attitude makes us targets. Now that I own an airplane
people seem to think I'm rich. Rich yes, but certainly not in money.
do not archive
S. Todd Bartrim
Turbo 13B
RX-9endurance
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"Imagination is more important than knowledge"
-Albert Einstein
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
I picked up a used compass that has a low liquid level. What can I use to
replenish/replace it?
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Compass liquid |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 8/20/04 2:56:34 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
matthew@n523rv.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
>
> I picked up a used compass that has a low liquid level. What can I use to
> replenish/replace it?
>
> Matthew Brandes,
> Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
> EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
> www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
>
>
I used "Ultra-pure smokeless and odorless candle and lamp oil" which you can
buy at any of the big home improvement stores. There used to be a compass
factory near here, and they just used a high grade of kerosene. Much cheaper
than AC$pruce.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Flying about 37 hours now)
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Compass liquid |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chuck <chuck515tigger@yahoo.com>
Matthew,
I think I've still got a few compass overhaul kits and a pint of compass fluid
kickin' around. If you're interested I go search. If I find 'em you can have
'em, just reimburse me for the shipping.
Chuck
don't archive
Matthew Brandes <matthew@n523rv.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes"
I picked up a used compass that has a low liquid level. What can I use to
replenish/replace it?
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com
---------------------------------
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rhett Westerman" <Rhettwesterman@cox.net>
Use Naptha
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chuck
Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass liquid
--> RV-List message posted by: Chuck <chuck515tigger@yahoo.com>
Matthew,
I think I've still got a few compass overhaul kits and a pint of compass
fluid kickin' around. If you're interested I go search. If I find 'em you
can have 'em, just reimburse me for the shipping.
Chuck
don't archive
Matthew Brandes <matthew@n523rv.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes"
I picked up a used compass that has a low liquid level. What can I use to
replenish/replace it?
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com
---------------------------------
Message 24
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| Subject: | Floor Standing Pneumatic Dimpler... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
One of the guys at Sierra Skypark here in Fresno has a dimpler that is a floor
standing pnuematic dimpler with a foot pedal that he uses to
dimple skins. I noticed that his finished control surfaces has no light distortion
around the rivets at all (showing a slight dimpling that extends
past the rivet head). When you look at his rivets, you would think they were countersunk
in the skin not riveted. My question is, is that from
his technique at dimpling skins or is it because he has the pneumatic dimpler?
My rivets look pretty good, but not that good and I use the
standard bench top one that you pound with the hammer...
By the way, were do you even get a floor unit like that? I looked online and cant
find one.
- Matt
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Compass liquid |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
The Rec. Aviation Homebuilt site on Google had quite a discussion on this
some time back. One party finally settled on Toner for copy machine. He said
it
is slightly more viscous than the original and was clear. Maybe easier on
gaskets too ?
I intend to use it in mine,soon.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Compass liquid |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
I'd give a call to an avionics shop and ask them what they use now. We used
to use acid free white kerosene in the past.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Compass liquid
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
>
> I picked up a used compass that has a low liquid level. What can I use to
> replenish/replace it?
>
> Matthew Brandes,
> Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
> EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
> www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Floor Standing Pneumatic Dimpler... (not processed: |
message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Kunkel" <rvator@socal.rr.com>
It's the riveter & you're probably referring to a CP-450 style cold
riveter - 24,000 Lbs. of force @ 90 PSI - rated for 1/2" solid aluminum
rivets. You can probably find a rebuilt one from different dealers for the
$5-6,000 range. If your rivets look pretty good, you might want to save your
money for the next engine core that comes up on Ebay :).
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Floor Standing Pneumatic Dimpler... (not processed:
message from valid local sender)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> One of the guys at Sierra Skypark here in Fresno has a dimpler that is a
floor standing pnuematic dimpler with a foot pedal that he uses to
> dimple skins. I noticed that his finished control surfaces has no light
distortion around the rivets at all (showing a slight dimpling that extends
> past the rivet head). When you look at his rivets, you would think they
were countersunk in the skin not riveted. My question is, is that from
> his technique at dimpling skins or is it because he has the pneumatic
dimpler? My rivets look pretty good, but not that good and I use the
> standard bench top one that you pound with the hammer...
>
> By the way, were do you even get a floor unit like that? I looked online
and cant find one.
>
> - Matt
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Compass liquid |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
I used Varsol in mine!
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Compass liquid
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>
> I'd give a call to an avionics shop and ask them what they use now. We
used
> to use acid free white kerosene in the past.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Compass liquid
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
> >
> > I picked up a used compass that has a low liquid level. What can I use
to
> > replenish/replace it?
> >
> > Matthew Brandes,
> > Van's RV-9A (Fuselage)
> > EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
> > www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
> >
> >
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Buying a used engine |
0.3 SUBJ_BUY Subject line starts with Buy or Buying
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
I have bought used engines in the past and have had fairly good luck. From experience
I have set myself some guide lines and will pass them on to the list hoping
it will help someone and maybe save some heart-ache.
I divide the engines into three categories, part time first run that can be put
into service without overhaul, part time second run and high time.
My first choice is first run part time with good logs that can be verified and
the same for second run but must have been overhauled by a reputable overhaul
facility and the logs to include a work sheet and parts list for the overhaul.
The high time engine is a core only and will be overhauled.
The value of the part time engines is based on time on the engine. The value of
the high time engine is a guess, it may make a good core or could be a good boat
anchor.
When I bye a part time engine I take it to a reputable overhaul facility (in my
case this would be Aero Sport Power) and have it checked out and run in their
test stand. For me this is a must, for safety sake and fairness to your passengers
you have to know you have a safe reliable engine up front.
In years gone by I have worked in a engine overhaul facility and understand the
overhaul process, but am a firm believer in getting my engines overhauled in
a good facility. This becomes even more important now with the RV 10 since we
will be carrying three passengers.
Van' choice of the I0 540 for the 10 has to be the very best as it is one of the
most reliable engines ever built.
Eustace Bowhay RV 10 40030 Working on the fuselage
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Okay guys, let's not get too carried away. If you look at the operation
drawing on the website, you will notice that the operational arc of "on"
and the operational arc of "off" is everything except the middle 45
degrees where it is transitioning.
In other words, all this discussion about 45 or 90 degrees is just
smoke. If you look at the drawing you will see that the valves are
fully open everywhere from about 27 degrees above horizontal to
completely vertical. They are fully closed from about 25 degrees below
horizontal to completely vertical (down).
So, as long as you don't leave the valve in the central position
(approximately +/- 25 degrees) you are fine. With the way it works, you
cannot turn it on when you really want it off. Unless you have some
really funky linkage you can only pull or push to the vertical positions
and all is well. I suppose you could overcenter the lever and have a
problem, but even there, assuming you have the clearance for the lever
movement, the valve would still work properly.
Stops are nice but not really necessary for the proper functioning of
the valve.
Dick Tasker
Wheeler North wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>The matco park brake valves have two spring loaded poppet valves (one for
>each side) that are pushed open by two cam lobes on a rotating shaft.
>
>When the cams are pushed on them they are stuck open, when the cam is
>rotated off they act like check valves and allow pressure to build up from
>the master cyls but not return.
>
>If the lever rotates too far it will cause the cam to come back off the
>valves and reengage the parking brake.
>
>If I remember correctly 90degs is too much lever travel, its more like 45
>degs.
>
>As stated in other posts, if the compensating valves in the master cylinders
>don't open up at the top end of the MC piston travel this will also keep the
>brakes on.
>
>W
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | don't want the engine to fall off. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
I'm surprised that the manual says very little about attaching the
Dynafocal II engine mount (for RV-6A) to the fuselage. I could use a
little guidance here.
The pre-drilled bolt holes in my QB fuselage are 1/4", intentionally
undersized for the 3/8" bolts in the engine mount. My plan is to get a
couple sholder bolts that are 1/4" in the threaded section and 3/8" in
the shank and see if I can use those to center the mount on the plane,
or at least find a resaonable compromise position.
Then using the engine mount as a drill guide, drill the holes out to
size with a drill slightly less than 3/8". Then ream the hole out to
3/8". (My mechanical engineer co-workers tell me that reamed holes are
significantly stronger.)
Is this what most folks do? Or am I missing something obvious?
Proceeding carefully here... botching these holes would be REAL BAD.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: RV8 one piece wings skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Tom
Was your set pre-punched? I know that Vans has offered 1 piece main skins
with no pre-punching for quite a few years.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com
>
>MIKE-VANS MADE MINE 6 YEARS AGO-WHAT IS A SUPER 8-TOM
>
>Tom Whelan
>Whelan Farms Airport
>President EAA Chapter 1097
>wfact01@aol.com
>249 Hard Hill Road North
>PO Box 426
>Bethlehem, CT 06751
>Tel: 203-266-5300
>Fax: 202-266-5140
>EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
>RV-8 540 LYC (Engine Runs, Taxi-Tests)
>S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: don't want the engine to fall off. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Tom,
I built the slow built 6a and did pretty much what you describe.
Instead of shoulder bolts I used some bushings on 1/4" bolts. I centered the
mount over the two holes that gave me the best average fit for the rest of
the holes and bolted the engine mount down.
I then used some more bushings to re-center drill the remaining slightly off
center firewall mount holes. Next I used the mount itself as a guide to
drill the fierwall holes to final size.
The reammer sure can't hurt, weather or not it is needed in this case I'll
leave up to the experts to have fun with.{[B-)!
HuH!, quick build EH! (;-)!
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: don't want the engine to fall off.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> I'm surprised that the manual says very little about attaching the
> Dynafocal II engine mount (for RV-6A) to the fuselage. I could use a
> little guidance here.
>
> The pre-drilled bolt holes in my QB fuselage are 1/4", intentionally
> undersized for the 3/8" bolts in the engine mount. My plan is to get a
> couple sholder bolts that are 1/4" in the threaded section and 3/8" in
> the shank and see if I can use those to center the mount on the plane,
> or at least find a resaonable compromise position.
>
> Then using the engine mount as a drill guide, drill the holes out to
> size with a drill slightly less than 3/8". Then ream the hole out to
> 3/8". (My mechanical engineer co-workers tell me that reamed holes are
> significantly stronger.)
>
> Is this what most folks do? Or am I missing something obvious?
>
> Proceeding carefully here... botching these holes would be REAL BAD.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
>
>
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