Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:35 AM - Re: Fortune Magazine - Nice article on Vans! (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
2. 07:44 AM - Re: Fortune Magazine - Nice article on Vans! (cgalley)
3. 11:34 AM - [ Gary Gunn ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
4. 11:53 AM - Flight Grip stick grips (thomas a. sargent)
5. 12:34 PM - Re: Fortune Magazine - Nice article on Vans! (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
6. 12:56 PM - wing wash out (Wheeler North)
7. 02:20 PM - engine timing vs CHTs/EGTs (Wheeler North)
8. 02:29 PM - Re: engine timing vs CHTs/EGTs (RV8ter@aol.com)
9. 04:26 PM - Re: Camping at Copperstate (Scott Vanartsdalen)
10. 04:41 PM - Re: Saw this engine on Ebay (Steve & Denise)
11. 05:13 PM - Re: engine timing vs CHTs/EGTs (Charlie Kuss)
12. 06:26 PM - Re: Re: Saw this engine on Ebay (Steve & Denise)
13. 06:40 PM - Navaid problem (Jerry Calvert)
14. 06:47 PM - Re: Re: Saw this engine on Ebay (Jim Sears)
15. 06:55 PM - Re: Re: Re: Saw this engine on Ebay (Jim Sears)
16. 06:57 PM - Re: Re: Re: Saw this engine on Ebay (Charlie England)
17. 07:06 PM - Re: Re: Re: Saw this engine on Ebay (linn walters)
18. 07:54 PM - Re: Navaid problem (Albert Gardner)
19. 08:07 PM - Wheel Fairings - Balancing Act (Tim Bryan)
20. 08:17 PM - Re: Navaid problem (Sam Buchanan)
21. 08:37 PM - Re: Wheel Fairings - Balancing Act (Vanremog@aol.com)
22. 09:55 PM - Re: RV8 one piece wings skins (Skylor Piper)
23. 10:34 PM - Re: RV8 one piece wings skins (Jerry Springer)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fortune Magazine - Nice article on Vans! |
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
In a message dated 8/12/2004 1:31:21 PM Central Standard Time, jhelms@i1.net
writes:
http://www.fortune.com/fortune/smallbusiness/roi/articles/0,15114,654762,00.
html
HAS ANYONE DOWNLOADED THIS ARTICLE ? I AM UNABLE TO LOCATE IT ON THE
WEBSITE. WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE A COPY OFF LIST.
THANKS,
DOUG PRESTON
DOUGPFLYRV@AOL.COM
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fortune Magazine - Nice article on Vans! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
After the down load fails, select the address, right arrow and type ".html"
on the end without the quotes.
Works fine.
----- Original Message -----
From: <DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fortune Magazine - Nice article on Vans!
> --> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 8/12/2004 1:31:21 PM Central Standard Time,
jhelms@i1.net
> writes:
>
http://www.fortune.com/fortune/smallbusiness/roi/articles/0,15114,654762,00.
> html
> HAS ANYONE DOWNLOADED THIS ARTICLE ? I AM UNABLE TO LOCATE IT ON THE
> WEBSITE. WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE A COPY OFF LIST.
>
> THANKS,
>
> DOUG PRESTON
> DOUGPFLYRV@AOL.COM
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | [ Gary Gunn ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Gary Gunn <ggunn@qwest.net>
Subject: Grand Canyon
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/ggunn@qwest.net.08.22.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Flight Grip stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Has any one on the list installed Flight Grip stick grips in their
plane? Even if you just checked one out at Oshkosh, I'd be interested
to hear opinions about how it fit your hand and how the switches felt, etc..
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Landing gear
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fortune Magazine - Nice article on Vans! |
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
Thanks
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
In my opinion the most important aspect of setting the wing is to be dang
sure there is proper edge distance on the rear spar flanges.
Having measured a number of aurplanes and RVs for general rigging I can
assure that its amazing what will fly relatively straight. A 1/4" washout
won't do anything, most likely.
If it does introduce anything it would be most likely only be noticed during
a stall, translated to a general preference to go one way over the other.
If you ran your riveting process from one end to the other, then that is
what probably introduced the shift, as the metal surrounding the rivet holes
is stretched, and will introduce accumlative shift over a long run.
The worst case would be to do one side (top or bottom) one way, then the
other side the opposite way, then do something different on the other wing.
As a general rule though, during rigging shoot for symetry, and average out
where its not possible to get exact symetry. Using the span point of 1/2 or
2/3s will do, and I doubt one could ever tell the difference in performance
effects using one vs the other.
Get it close without going nutso on it, as you will need to make final
adjustments by flying it rather than measuring things no matter how much you
measure it now.
Just think about the difference in relative angle of wind on the left side
vs the right side in the prop influence area, yet they all seem to fly just
fine even if they are perfectly symetrical.
Robust structure is far more important on these aircraft than is precise
rigging.
W
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@matronics.com
| Subject: | engine timing vs CHTs/EGTs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Well,
once again the list provided a useful jog to my rapidly degrading mental
faculties. After a recent discussion with Andre B. re his fuel injection
problems he reminded me of an old Lycoming service letter which allows most
of the IO-360s to have their timing retarded to 20 degs from the normal
factory setting of 25 degs used for most Lycoming engines. Although the SL
doesn't fully explain this, it is an option for those engine installations
where detonation and cooling are an issue.
For some strange reason this finally gelled in my head with the previous
thirty years of experience floating around in there and answered the
question I have had in my head as to why many RVs have such a wide range of
CHTs from one aircraft to the next given they all have the same relative
engines(mostly).
Years ago I worked in a shop where we had this strange little Mercedes two
seater with a big ass engine in it. The engine was fairly high time and the
owner was always complaining about how hot the thing ran. So we eventually
went through everything including a complete teardown overhaul, reteardown
and I finally ended up calling up the old guy in Germany who said the timing
specs for that engine were wrong and to back them off two degrees. I whined
about this until as it couldn't possibly have that much effect. He promtly
reminded me who the old guy was and told me to just shut up and do it. Dang
old guy was right, two degrees of timing retard had a major effect on the
operating temperature of that engine.
Then later on I had a few customers who regularly got stuck in border
traffic so I retarded their timing a few degrees and voila, same thing,
cooler temps.
So, having had several conversations with many of you about CHTs being kinda
cold, or hot, once this re-epiphany fired from my left neuron to my right
neuron I decided to give it a try.
At 26 degs BTDC my CHTs are about 440 during a long climb out, and on a hot
day will go beyond 450 if I don't drop the nose. EGTs tend to stay about
1250 when leaned to short of peak.
After a couple of initial flights yesterday with the timing set at 22.5 degs
BTDC my CHTs were in the 325 to 350 range and the EGTs were up around 1425.
Now this jives with what I would think would happen as the heat, being
started later, is now getting more rejection through the exhaust, but I am
very suprised at how much change occured between a shift of 3.5 degrees.
Since I have the cheapo CHT/EGT gauge with the funcky switches I am not very
confident in any hard numbers I am listing here, but the relative change
does seem to be significant.
Now, with all that said one might then want to discuss the effect retarding
or advancing timing will have on power. In general retarding timing away
from that maximum point where the engine will begin to misfire or detonate
will reduce power as it shifts the maximum centroid of pressure away from
that optimum range where the pressure cycle will be fully utilized
converting to the most rotational power into the crankshaft. (energy
conversion cyclically changes from 0% at 0degsTDC to 100% at 90degsATDC)
But this would only be noticed at full power since aircraft engines don't
vary timing with engine RPM or load as cars do. Well I didn't notice any
loss at full blast going down the runway, which is the only time I ever plow
around at that power setting. In fact it seemed to me that the engine was
running a tad bit smoother so may have actually felt a little more powerful.
(truely a subjective comment based upon not one schred of empirical
evidence)
In truth what has happened is this. There is some RPM value to which
Lycoming's setting of 25 degs causes the most efficeint conversion of
pressure into torque, (I would guess roughly 2300 to 2400 RPM) By changing
the timing one is just shifting where this occurs on the RPM scale. Since
reciprocating engines will vary power output with changes in timing at max
RPM, but if you don't fly at that RPM much, than your power really won't be
effected by a small change in timing. You might notice a slight change in
control knob position for a known MAP/RPM setting, but if you set it to that
MAP/RPM it will still produce the same power as before, or at least so close
that you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. I'm thinking the same will
be true for fuel efficiency, but will have to fly awhile to prove that.
So,
if your CHTS are very low, or too hgh, check your timing and try moving it
few degrees(retard for cooler, advanced for hotter). I would not recommend
going over 25 degs though as these aircooled engines are low RPM, large
piston, thermally critical assemblies, just looking for a detonation to
happen.
The last thing I want to say is that I played with getting the timing exact
between the mags vs being about a deg off from each other. Although I never
flew with them at very different settings, it did ground run noticeably
smoother with them set as close to each other as possible. (one degree off
was amazingly rougher at 1500 RPM)
So if some of y'all with them fancy recording engine things wanted to try
this I would love to see the hard EGT/CHT data from say 25 degs vs 22.5 degs
at max effort and cruise climb. (I know its a total pain to get the cowl off
and change this a few times, particularly if the gasket tears as it did on
my left mag, but if you're in there tinkering, it would be way cool to see
hard accurate data)
W
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: engine timing vs CHTs/EGTs |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
My io-360-a1b6d lycoming manual (and info on their web site) excludes my
engine from being allowed to be retarded to 20 BTDC from 25. Doesn't say way.
Anybody know FOR SURE?
do not archive
In a message dated 8/22/2004 5:21:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Well,
once again the list provided a useful jog to my rapidly degrading mental
faculties. After a recent discussion with Andre B. re his fuel injection
problems he reminded me of an old Lycoming service letter which allows most
of the IO-360s to have their timing retarded to 20 degs from the normal
factory setting of 25 degs used for most Lycoming engines. Although the SL
doesn't fully explain this, it is an option for those engine installations
where detonation and cooling are an issue.
For some strange reason this finally gelled in my head with the previous
thirty years of experience floating around in there and answered the
question I have had in my head as to why many RVs have such a wide range of
CHTs from one aircraft to the next given they all have the same relative
engines(mostly).
Years ago I worked in a shop where we had this strange little Mercedes two
seater with a big ass engine in it. The engine was fairly high time and the
owner was always complaining about how hot the thing ran. So we eventually
went through everything including a complete teardown overhaul, reteardown
and I finally ended up calling up the old guy in Germany who said the timing
specs for that engine were wrong and to back them off two degrees. I whined
about this until as it couldn't possibly have that much effect. He promtly
reminded me who the old guy was and told me to just shut up and do it. Dang
old guy was right, two degrees of timing retard had a major effect on the
operating temperature of that engine.
Then later on I had a few customers who regularly got stuck in border
traffic so I retarded their timing a few degrees and voila, same thing,
cooler temps.
So, having had several conversations with many of you about CHTs being kinda
cold, or hot, once this re-epiphany fired from my left neuron to my right
neuron I decided to give it a try.
At 26 degs BTDC my CHTs are about 440 during a long climb out, and on a hot
day will go beyond 450 if I don't drop the nose. EGTs tend to stay about
1250 when leaned to short of peak.
After a couple of initial flights yesterday with the timing set at 22.5 degs
BTDC my CHTs were in the 325 to 350 range and the EGTs were up around 1425.
Now this jives with what I would think would happen as the heat, being
started later, is now getting more rejection through the exhaust, but I am
very suprised at how much change occured between a shift of 3.5 degrees.
Since I have the cheapo CHT/EGT gauge with the funcky switches I am not very
confident in any hard numbers I am listing here, but the relative change
does seem to be significant.
Now, with all that said one might then want to discuss the effect retarding
or advancing timing will have on power. In general retarding timing away
from that maximum point where the engine will begin to misfire or detonate
will reduce power as it shifts the maximum centroid of pressure away from
that optimum range where the pressure cycle will be fully utilized
converting to the most rotational power into the crankshaft. (energy
conversion cyclically changes from 0% at 0degsTDC to 100% at 90degsATDC)
But this would only be noticed at full power since aircraft engines don't
vary timing with engine RPM or load as cars do. Well I didn't notice any
loss at full blast going down the runway, which is the only time I ever plow
around at that power setting. In fact it seemed to me that the engine was
running a tad bit smoother so may have actually felt a little more powerful.
(truely a subjective comment based upon not one schred of empirical
evidence)
In truth what has happened is this. There is some RPM value to which
Lycoming's setting of 25 degs causes the most efficeint conversion of
pressure into torque, (I would guess roughly 2300 to 2400 RPM) By changing
the timing one is just shifting where this occurs on the RPM scale. Since
reciprocating engines will vary power output with changes in timing at max
RPM, but if you don't fly at that RPM much, than your power really won't be
effected by a small change in timing. You might notice a slight change in
control knob position for a known MAP/RPM setting, but if you set it to that
MAP/RPM it will still produce the same power as before, or at least so close
that you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. I'm thinking the same will
be true for fuel efficiency, but will have to fly awhile to prove that.
So,
if your CHTS are very low, or too hgh, check your timing and try moving it
few degrees(retard for cooler, advanced for hotter). I would not recommend
going over 25 degs though as these aircooled engines are low RPM, large
piston, thermally critical assemblies, just looking for a detonation to
happen.
The last thing I want to say is that I played with getting the timing exact
between the mags vs being about a deg off from each other. Although I never
flew with them at very different settings, it did ground run noticeably
smoother with them set as close to each other as possible. (one degree off
was amazingly rougher at 1500 RPM)
So if some of y'all with them fancy recording engine things wanted to try
this I would love to see the hard EGT/CHT data from say 25 degs vs 22.5 degs
at max effort and cruise climb. (I know its a total pain to get the cowl off
and change this a few times, particularly if the gasket tears as it did on
my left mag, but if you're in there tinkering, it would be way cool to see
hard accurate data)
W
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Camping at Copperstate |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Ah... Never trust a picture on a website. I'll be there too. Shuttling between
Holiday Inn and the airport. Thanks for the 411.
Paul Besing <azpilot@extremezone.com> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul
Besing"
Hot and cool. Could be too hot, depending on the year. They do NOT have
grass throughout. Most of it is dead, but they are trying to bring it back.
I'd recommend the motels in Casa Grande as well. I fly over (and land at)
PRA just about every day. I'll keep checking it out.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (RV-10 Soon)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Camping at Copperstate
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 8/21/2004 5:04:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> svanarts@yahoo.com writes:
>
> Anyone on the list ever tent camped at Copperstate? How's access to
food?
> (It's dismal if you arrive early at OSH) What's the weather like that
time of
> year? Would I be better off in a hotel?
>
>
> =============================================
>
> Weather is still warm. The grounds there were messy due to blowing dirt
and
> hay last year. We had a motel in Casa Grande and would recommend this
> again, although they indicated that they were going to be planting grass
thruout.
>
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 708 hrs)
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Saw this engine on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
I'm by no means a rich man. I had a dream and built it.
I'd rather be in buried in $35,000 of debt than 6 feet of dirt.
Maybe one could use this engine as a block and get it totally overhauled
but I've priced that option out and it ends up almost as much as a new
engine.
My spouse deserves better than a overhauled Lycoming with no history or
documentation.
Steve
RV7A
70015
71629
>
>
> Time: 11:26:08 AM PST US
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Saw this engine on Ebay
> From: "Bartrim, Todd" <Steve.Bartrim@canfor.com>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bartrim, Todd" <Steve.Bartrim@canfor.com>
>
> > If I have to spend $35,000 to get a good engine either new or a very
well
> > documented
> > log books then so be it. Wheres the checkbook?
> >
> > If anyone buys an engine like this the amateur built warning sign should
> > include the price
> > paid for the engine in large capital letters.
> >
> > As the saying goes: If you can't afford a good engine, you can't afford
an
> > airplane.
> >
> >
> Whoaa! I try to stay out of things like this but.... Is aviation
the
> exclusive domain of the rich and privileged? $35,000 is more than some
people
> make in a year. Does this mean they have no business building an airplane?
There
> are other alternatives and buying this engine as a core for rebuild may be
> an affordable alternative for some.
> Not all builders have an unlimited chequebook allowing them to
quickly
> assemble a quickbuild plane. Some whom could afford it, still prefer to
build
> every piece themselves, which may include rebuilding the engine. They may
be capable
> of superior workmanship... would they still require a warning sign
including
> engine price posted on their aircraft?
> I was able to find my low time 13B engine core for $160CAD. How
does that
> make you feel?... no wait, I really don't give a damn. I don't want to
start
> a flame war here, but just want to make sure we don't climb too high on
our
> aviation pedestal as this attitude makes us targets. Now that I own an
airplane
> people seem to think I'm rich. Rich yes, but certainly not in money.
>
> do not archive
>
> S. Todd Bartrim
> Turbo 13B
> RX-9endurance
> C-FSTB
> http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
>
> "Imagination is more important than knowledge"
> -Albert Einstein
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: engine timing vs CHTs/EGTs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Wheeler,
What the hell is wrong with you! You one of them damned radicals who
actually thinks that one repeatable test is worth a thousand expert
opinions??? :-) You hit the nail on the head, as usual.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>Well,
>
>once again the list provided a useful jog to my rapidly degrading mental
>faculties. After a recent discussion with Andre B. re his fuel injection
>problems he reminded me of an old Lycoming service letter which allows most
>of the IO-360s to have their timing retarded to 20 degs from the normal
>factory setting of 25 degs used for most Lycoming engines. Although the SL
>doesn't fully explain this, it is an option for those engine installations
>where detonation and cooling are an issue.
>
>For some strange reason this finally gelled in my head with the previous
>thirty years of experience floating around in there and answered the
>question I have had in my head as to why many RVs have such a wide range of
>CHTs from one aircraft to the next given they all have the same relative
>engines(mostly).
>
>Years ago I worked in a shop where we had this strange little Mercedes two
>seater with a big ass engine in it. The engine was fairly high time and the
>owner was always complaining about how hot the thing ran. So we eventually
>went through everything including a complete teardown overhaul, reteardown
>and I finally ended up calling up the old guy in Germany who said the timing
>specs for that engine were wrong and to back them off two degrees. I whined
>about this until as it couldn't possibly have that much effect. He promtly
>reminded me who the old guy was and told me to just shut up and do it. Dang
>old guy was right, two degrees of timing retard had a major effect on the
>operating temperature of that engine.
>
>Then later on I had a few customers who regularly got stuck in border
>traffic so I retarded their timing a few degrees and voila, same thing,
>cooler temps.
>
>So, having had several conversations with many of you about CHTs being kinda
>cold, or hot, once this re-epiphany fired from my left neuron to my right
>neuron I decided to give it a try.
>
>At 26 degs BTDC my CHTs are about 440 during a long climb out, and on a hot
>day will go beyond 450 if I don't drop the nose. EGTs tend to stay about
>1250 when leaned to short of peak.
>
>After a couple of initial flights yesterday with the timing set at 22.5 degs
>BTDC my CHTs were in the 325 to 350 range and the EGTs were up around 1425.
>
>Now this jives with what I would think would happen as the heat, being
>started later, is now getting more rejection through the exhaust, but I am
>very suprised at how much change occured between a shift of 3.5 degrees.
>
>Since I have the cheapo CHT/EGT gauge with the funcky switches I am not very
>confident in any hard numbers I am listing here, but the relative change
>does seem to be significant.
>
>Now, with all that said one might then want to discuss the effect retarding
>or advancing timing will have on power. In general retarding timing away
>from that maximum point where the engine will begin to misfire or detonate
>will reduce power as it shifts the maximum centroid of pressure away from
>that optimum range where the pressure cycle will be fully utilized
>converting to the most rotational power into the crankshaft. (energy
>conversion cyclically changes from 0% at 0degsTDC to 100% at 90degsATDC)
>
>But this would only be noticed at full power since aircraft engines don't
>vary timing with engine RPM or load as cars do. Well I didn't notice any
>loss at full blast going down the runway, which is the only time I ever plow
>around at that power setting. In fact it seemed to me that the engine was
>running a tad bit smoother so may have actually felt a little more powerful.
>(truely a subjective comment based upon not one schred of empirical
>evidence)
>
>In truth what has happened is this. There is some RPM value to which
>Lycoming's setting of 25 degs causes the most efficeint conversion of
>pressure into torque, (I would guess roughly 2300 to 2400 RPM) By changing
>the timing one is just shifting where this occurs on the RPM scale. Since
>reciprocating engines will vary power output with changes in timing at max
>RPM, but if you don't fly at that RPM much, than your power really won't be
>effected by a small change in timing. You might notice a slight change in
>control knob position for a known MAP/RPM setting, but if you set it to that
>MAP/RPM it will still produce the same power as before, or at least so close
>that you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. I'm thinking the same will
>be true for fuel efficiency, but will have to fly awhile to prove that.
>
>So,
>
>if your CHTS are very low, or too hgh, check your timing and try moving it
>few degrees(retard for cooler, advanced for hotter). I would not recommend
>going over 25 degs though as these aircooled engines are low RPM, large
>piston, thermally critical assemblies, just looking for a detonation to
>happen.
>
>The last thing I want to say is that I played with getting the timing exact
>between the mags vs being about a deg off from each other. Although I never
>flew with them at very different settings, it did ground run noticeably
>smoother with them set as close to each other as possible. (one degree off
>was amazingly rougher at 1500 RPM)
>
>So if some of y'all with them fancy recording engine things wanted to try
>this I would love to see the hard EGT/CHT data from say 25 degs vs 22.5 degs
>at max effort and cruise climb. (I know its a total pain to get the cowl off
>and change this a few times, particularly if the gasket tears as it did on
>my left mag, but if you're in there tinkering, it would be way cool to see
>hard accurate data)
>
>W
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Re: Saw this engine on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
do not archive
I have great respect for someone that can take an engine like this and
turn it into a reliable solution for their RV. I take back my remarks on low
cost
solutions.
What would be your estimate on the final value of the engine once everything
is installed?
I'm envious. I'm good at riveting, painting and avionics but I do not
possess the skills
to start an engine project like this.
Steve
RV7A
70015
71629
>
> > I was able to find my low time 13B engine core for $160CAD. How
> >does that make you feel?... no wait, I really don't give a damn. I don't
> >want to start a flame war here, but just want to make sure we don't climb
> >too high on our aviation pedestal as this attitude makes us targets. Now
> >that I own an airplane people seem to think I'm rich. Rich yes, but
> >certainly not in money.
> >
> >do not archive
> >
> >S. Todd Bartrim
> >Turbo 13B
>
> Jeez Todd, I bought my non logbooked, non new, non well documented rotary
> 13B for $400US so my pedestal is obviously nearly 3X's as high as yours:-)
> Cool!! Sorry though, we obviously can't be in "da club".
>
> Oh man, another load of dribble, babble, dabble to lighten the load:-)
I'll
> probably get in trouble with the unofficial list
> police...................oh, well.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
> do not archive
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
I am asking this for a friend who is having problems with his Navaid. He has the
Navaid coupled to a Garmin 296. When he is intercepting a course, he feels
a bump in the stick when he reaches the new course line, but instead of turning
on course, it stays on heading and doesn't make the turn.
Has anyone had this problem and resolved it?
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Saw this engine on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> I'm by no means a rich man. I had a dream and built it.
>
> I'd rather be in buried in $35,000 of debt than 6 feet of dirt.
>
I've tried to stay out of this; but, I've found this thread rather
insulting, at times. In the years I've flown since 1982, I have yet to fly
behind a brand new engine. In fact, most of the engines I've flown behind
were rebuilt ones. Because many of them were rentals during my neophyte
days as a pilot, I really didn't care as long as the engines performed as
promised. Some were rebuilt by the factory and some in the field. I've
found that none did any better than the others, regardless of where they
were overhauled, if properly maintained and exercised. To suggest that one
has to go deeply in debt to stay out of the dirt is bordering on
foolishness. Many aircraft today fly very well on rebuilt engines. All
three of the aircraft I've owned have rebuilt engines. At least two of them
sport field overhauls. Scooter (my -6A) is one of them. In fact, I was
heavily involved in its overhaul from tear down to rebuild.
> Maybe one could use this engine as a block and get it totally overhauled
> but I've priced that option out and it ends up almost as much as a new
> engine.
>
Yes, it can cost nearly as much. However, one can oftentimes find a good
core that doesn't break the bank. It also may help if you have a good
source of parts that doesn't help to break the bank, as well. When I
rebuilt the O320 for Scooter, I wanted a good engine. By going the used
route and rebuilding, I saved enough to pay for the entire firewall forward,
to include the fixed pitch Sensenich prop, for less than the price of an
engine through Van's. I still find it hard to believe that one can't save
money over buying new.
> My spouse deserves better than a overhauled Lycoming with no history or
> documentation.
>
After three hundred plus hours, the engine on my RV is still running. I
haven't had to ditch Scooter because of a bad engine, yet. In fact, I've
never had to land due to an engine stoppage since I started flying in 1982,
even when I had no idea of the history of the engines I was flying behind.
I guess you can see I'm a little less skeptical than you about the engines
we use; but, I can also say I'm far from foolish.
Granted, I understand where you're coming from; but, it's kind of an insult
that anything less than a new engine is not good enough for our spouses,
either. Well, I think my airplane with its rebuilt engine is safe enough
for my spouse, my grandchildren, and the children I've taken up in the Young
Eagles program. Even though it had no log book, it was gone through very
carefully and rebuilt to like new specs. I'm no more afraid of that engine
than I would be of a factory new one. At least I know how it was built and
by whom. I have no idea who builds the new ones.
Now, let's end this foolishness and get back to the building at hand. Buy
new if that suits you; but, don't try to belittle those of us who are a bit
more frugal and find other avenues than going deeply in debt to fill our
dreams. If I had to go deeply in debt to own an airplane, or engine, I'd
not own an airplane. I didn't have to go debt and have Scooter to show for
it. After having flown Scooter to another fly-in today and watched people
as they looked at it, and had many ask questions about it, I think I did the
right thing for me. I'm proud of it, even if the engine is used and
rebuilt. I'll bet I have as big a RV grin as the anyone who has the best of
everything in his/her RV. I'm sure I speak for most of us who have gone the
same route.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Started wings. Own a pile of parts for a O320 rebuild)
EAA Tech Counselor
EAA Flight Advisor
do not archive
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Re: Saw this engine on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> I have great respect for someone that can take an engine like this and
> turn it into a reliable solution for their RV. I take back my remarks on
low
> cost solutions.
>
Wait a minute! I must have missed the boat! I got the idea that a low
cost engine is not good enough! You'd rather go in debt than have your
spouse ride behind a low cost option!
> What would be your estimate on the final value of the engine once
everything
> is installed?
>
A 13B is going to cost less than a Lyc; but, even a Lyc rebuild can be a
cheaper solution than buying new and still give you a good bang for the
buck.
> I'm envious. I'm good at riveting, painting and avionics but I do not
possess the skills
> to start an engine project like this.
>
Steve, I'll bet you didn't always have those other skills, either. The nice
thing about overhauling a Lyc engine is that you can find plenty of help.
Doing an auto conversion is really neat; but, going a rebuilt Lyc route is a
more practical way for those of us who don't want to push into those
unknowns as deeply. Any good A&P worth his salt can help you with an
overhaul of a Lyc. Look at rebuilding an engine as another step in your
learning curve. It's really neat to get close and personal with one's
engine. You can't get the same experience with a factory new engine.
Jim Sears in KY
do not archive
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Re: Saw this engine on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
hmmm...
Do you mean Blue Book Value, or what it's worth to the guy that did it?
If you intend to sell the plane, at the moment it obviously hurts the
value relative to your $35K Lyc. (Of course, the $ cost of entry is a
bit lower in exchange for the 'sweat equity'.)
If you mean the value to the guy that did it, then like the bank card
guys say, 'Priceless.'
The real value is to the rest of us, who one day won't be obligated to
pay $35K for an overgrown Volkswagen Bug engine.
(obligatory ;-) here)
Way to go, Todd.
Charlie
-7 wings
do not archive
Steve & Denise wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
>
>do not archive
>
>I have great respect for someone that can take an engine like this and
>turn it into a reliable solution for their RV. I take back my remarks on low
>cost
>solutions.
>
>What would be your estimate on the final value of the engine once everything
>is installed?
>
>I'm envious. I'm good at riveting, painting and avionics but I do not
>possess the skills
>to start an engine project like this.
>
>Steve
>RV7A
>70015
>71629
>
>
>
>
>>> I was able to find my low time 13B engine core for $160CAD. How
>>>does that make you feel?... no wait, I really don't give a damn. I don't
>>>want to start a flame war here, but just want to make sure we don't climb
>>>too high on our aviation pedestal as this attitude makes us targets. Now
>>>that I own an airplane people seem to think I'm rich. Rich yes, but
>>>certainly not in money.
>>>
>>>do not archive
>>>
>>>S. Todd Bartrim
>>>Turbo 13B
>>>
>>>
>>Jeez Todd, I bought my non logbooked, non new, non well documented rotary
>>13B for $400US so my pedestal is obviously nearly 3X's as high as yours:-)
>>Cool!! Sorry though, we obviously can't be in "da club".
>>
>>Oh man, another load of dribble, babble, dabble to lighten the load:-)
>>
>>
>I'll
>
>
>>probably get in trouble with the unofficial list
>>police...................oh, well.
>>
>>
>>Dana Overall
>>Richmond, KY i39
>>RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>>Finish kit
>>13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
>>http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
>>http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
>>http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
>>do not archive
>>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Re: Saw this engine on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Steve & Denise wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve & Denise" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
>
>do not archive
>
>I have great respect for someone that can take an engine like this and
>turn it into a reliable solution for their RV. I take back my remarks on low
>cost solutions.
>
>What would be your estimate on the final value of the engine once everything
>is installed?
>
This is hard to estimate since the cam and crank wear are unknown.
Parts vary in cost with different dealers and how much you really need.
>I'm envious. I'm good at riveting, painting and avionics but I do not
>possess the skills to start an engine project like this.
>
Ah, sure you do!!! With the exception of two manuals (overhaul and
parts) and a set of cylinder base wrenches, you probably have all the
tools already. Splitting the case is the hardest part, but can be done
with a large hammer and a block of hardwood. Three wrenches and
sockets; 9/16, 1/2, and 7/16 do most of the disassembly and assembly.
You send the case, crank, cam, connecting rods and cylinders out to be
overhauled. New pistons, rings, bearings, some hardware and a gasket
set are most likely needed. Special tools you might not have, but are
not too expensive are a ring compressor (from the auto supply store) and
a ring expander (from aviation tool places) and a good torque wrench.
These engines are rock simple and the overhaul manual will tell you
everything you need to know. You can get a very good overhaul for 5-6K
if all the big pieces can be overhauled. Once you get all the parts
back, you can put everything together in a week. Having an engine stand
(I built mine) that stands the engine on the prop flange makes assembly
really easy.
Linn
>
>Steve
>RV7A
>70015
>71629
>
>
>
>
>>> I was able to find my low time 13B engine core for $160CAD. How
>>>does that make you feel?... no wait, I really don't give a damn. I don't
>>>want to start a flame war here, but just want to make sure we don't climb
>>>too high on our aviation pedestal as this attitude makes us targets. Now
>>>that I own an airplane people seem to think I'm rich. Rich yes, but
>>>certainly not in money.
>>>
>>>do not archive
>>>
>>>S. Todd Bartrim
>>>Turbo 13B
>>>
>>>
>>Jeez Todd, I bought my non logbooked, non new, non well documented rotary
>>13B for $400US so my pedestal is obviously nearly 3X's as high as yours:-)
>>Cool!! Sorry though, we obviously can't be in "da club".
>>
>>Oh man, another load of dribble, babble, dabble to lighten the load:-)
>>
>>
>I'll
>
>
>>probably get in trouble with the unofficial list
>>police...................oh, well.
>>
>>
>>Dana Overall
>>Richmond, KY i39
>>RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>>Finish kit
>>13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
>>http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
>>http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
>>http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
>>do not archive
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Navaid problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
I'm using a ControlVision to drive my Navaid. If I have the Navaid trim knob
set so that I'm offset from the center line of the course, at an
intersection the Navaid will sometimes turn the wrong way to intercept the
new leg or seem ottherwise confused but if I hold the stick for a few
moments it will work OK. Is this your case or will it never intercept the
new leg?
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Navaid problem
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
>
> I am asking this for a friend who is having problems with his Navaid. He
has the Navaid coupled to a Garmin 296. When he is intercepting a course,
he feels a bump in the stick when he reaches the new course line, but
instead of turning on course, it stays on heading and doesn't make the turn.
>
> Has anyone had this problem and resolved it?
>
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok
> RV6 N296JC
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Wheel Fairings - Balancing Act |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer@improvementteam.com>
Hello Listers,
Today I decided to start on my main wheel fairings. (RV-6) I have raised
the tail so the plane is in level flight. I snapped a chalk line on the
floor right down the center of the fuselage using a plumb at the tail and
one at the front center of the firewall. I have a couple of questions about
this process.
First I am wishing I had done this prior to installing the engine because of
the weight. Without the wings installed the plane doesn't seem too terribly
stable when the tail is lifted this high. I attached some weight at the
tail and tied it down to my lifted plateform. Should be OK. On the other
hand, in front the manual says to lift the plane so the main wheels are off
the ground 0-1/16th of an inch so the the mains will swing into "no load"
free position. I have a cherry picker connected to the engine hook only for
stability as I raised the tail but can I effectively and safely pick up the
front of the plane with this hook?
Second, using my chalk line and trying to get a measurement of the center
line on the wheel pants while they are resting unattached on a 1" block of
wood sitting on the tire and the tail resting on a coffee can at 8 5/8" off
the floor seems like a pretty shakey way to get these things within the 1/4"
the plans call for. Does somebody have a suggestion for an easier way to
accomplish this process?
Trying to get this accomplished reasonably without having a wreck. Any
ideas, comments, etc. would be appreciated.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
Getting Done This Year!
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Navaid problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Jerry Calvert wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
>
> I am asking this for a friend who is having problems with his Navaid.
> He has the Navaid coupled to a Garmin 296. When he is intercepting a
> course, he feels a bump in the stick when he reaches the new course
> line, but instead of turning on course, it stays on heading and
> doesn't make the turn.
>
> Has anyone had this problem and resolved it?
My Navaid *usually* worked quite well at tracking a course if the nose
of the plane was pointed nearly at the waypoint when the autopilot was
engaged and the trims set properly, but it never was able to
consistently intercept a course. From my 450 hrs of experience with the
Navaid, I found reliable course intercepts was beyond the capabilities
of my Navaid.
There is a way to absolutely fix this problem, but it involves leaving
the Navaid at home......... :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, AlTrak and EZ-Pilot autopilots)
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Fairings - Balancing Act |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 8/22/2004 8:08:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv6flyer@improvementteam.com writes:
Today I decided to start on my main wheel fairings. (RV-6) I have raised
the tail so the plane is in level flight. I snapped a chalk line on the
floor right down the center of the fuselage using a plumb at the tail and
one at the front center of the firewall. I have a couple of questions about
this process.
First I am wishing I had done this prior to installing the engine because of
the weight. Without the wings installed the plane doesn't seem too terribly
stable when the tail is lifted this high. I attached some weight at the
tail and tied it down to my lifted platform. Should be OK. On the other
hand, in front the manual says to lift the plane so the main wheels are off
the ground 0-1/16th of an inch so the mains will swing into "no load"
free position. I have a cherry picker connected to the engine hook only for
stability as I raised the tail but can I effectively and safely pick up the
front of the plane with this hook?
===================================
I would encourage you to use cables or straps to some other portion of the
engine mount rather than risk carrying to much mass with the engine hook.
Some rope or nylon straps would be better and more stabilizing as you can
connect to several more outboard members.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 710 hrs)
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV8 one piece wings skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
It's been awhile since I've read the report of the
"other" structural failure, and I must admit that I
don't recall all the details. I'll see if I can find
it this week.
I do recall that it was an RV-8 in California on its
way to a fly in several years ago. I believe it was
VFR into IMC by a non IFR pilot, and a witness saw it
come spinning out of the clouds without part of a
wing. Like N58RV, the wing failed around the inboard
end of the aileron (I recall).
I agree with Kevin's point of view that you can't
arbitrarily install a heavier one piece skin and
expect that will strengthen the wing under all
conditions. Lighter planes are definitely better.
My only point was that there "may" be some benefit of
the heavier one piece skin, at list in the two
instances where the wing failed mid span. Ultimately,
the answer to the that question lies with a
knowledgeable structural engineer or the aircraft
designer.
Skylor
--- Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer
> <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> Skylor Piper wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper
> <skylor4@yahoo.com>
> >
> >
> >--- Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>Sure, the outboard wing would be a bit stronger,
> but
> >>the inboard wing
> >>would be the same as before. The extra strength
> in
> >>the outboard wing
> >>is irrelevant...snip...
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >>Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> >>Ottawa, Canada
> >>http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
> >>
> >>
> >
> >Are you sure about that? The two RV-8's that had
> >in-flight structural failures (that I know about)
> had
> >the wings fail right at the inboard edge of the
> aileron.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> Skylor what were the deaails of the second in flight
> failure?
>
> Jerry
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
_______________________________
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV8 one piece wings skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Skylor Piper wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
>
>It's been awhile since I've read the report of the
>"other" structural failure, and I must admit that I
>don't recall all the details. I'll see if I can find
>it this week.
>
>
http://www2.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id=20031009X01690&key=1
If this is the one you are referring to I do not believe wing skins
would have made a difference, nor was it in anyway the fault
of the aircraft. If you read the entire report the wings were still
attached and both wing leading edges were crushed back.
I really hate it when misinformation gets spread around about the
airplanes we build and fly.
If you have other information I would love to see the report.
Jerry
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|