Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:05 AM - 5 point harness on RV6 (Shirley Harding)
2. 04:14 AM - Re: grass runway length for RV's? (cgalley)
3. 04:31 AM - Re: grass runway length for RV's? (Rvsearey@aol.com)
4. 05:24 AM - Results of Annual Inspection on my -4 (Dean Pichon)
5. 06:55 AM - elevator play (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
6. 07:14 AM - Re: elevator play (Pat Hatch)
7. 07:25 AM - Re: elevator play (Scott Bilinski)
8. 07:38 AM - Re: elevator play (Steven DiNieri)
9. 07:49 AM - Re: Re: Nationair insurance news (MHRV)
10. 08:00 AM - Re: Results of Annual Inspection on my -4 (Brian Denk)
11. 08:19 AM - New Lycoming 360 aluminum CS propeller for sale (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
12. 08:22 AM - Re: elevator play (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
13. 08:41 AM - Re: Results of Annual Inspection on my -4 (Louis Willig)
14. 08:42 AM - Re: elevator play (Vanremog@aol.com)
15. 08:46 AM - Re: Results of Annual Inspection on my -4 (Scott Bilinski)
16. 09:07 AM - Re: Results of Annual Inspection on my -4 (Scott Bilinski)
17. 09:12 AM - Re: new near vision procedure (BBreckenridge@att.net)
18. 09:20 AM - Re: Results of Annual Inspection on my -4 (Dean Pichon)
19. 09:41 AM - Re: Re: new near vision procedure (Doug Brinlee)
20. 09:50 AM - Re: Re: new near vision procedure (Brian Denk)
21. 09:56 AM - Re: Van's Homecoming (Mike Robertson)
22. 10:02 AM - Re: 5 point harness on RV6 (HCRV6@aol.com)
23. 10:12 AM - Re: grass runway length for RV's? (Tim Bryan)
24. 10:14 AM - Re: Re: new near vision procedure (HCRV6@aol.com)
25. 10:27 AM - Re: Re: new near vision procedure (linn walters)
26. 10:34 AM - Re: Re: new near vision procedure (Randy Lervold)
27. 10:42 AM - Re: Re: new near vision procedure (Terry Watson)
28. 10:42 AM - Re: Re: new near vision procedure (Tim Bryan)
29. 10:49 AM - Re: Re: new near vision procedure (ogoodwin@comcast.net)
30. 10:52 AM - Re: elevator play (RV8ter@aol.com)
31. 11:30 AM - Re: Re: new near vision procedure (Greg Young)
32. 11:48 AM - Cowling to airbox clearance- (was: Results of Annual Inspection on my -4) (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
33. 12:35 PM - Re: knock it off (bertrv6@highstream.net)
34. 12:40 PM - Panel Cut-out for 2 1/4" Instrument (Clinchy, Dave)
35. 12:58 PM - Glasses (bertrv6@highstream.net)
36. 02:07 PM - Re: grass runway length for RV's? (Jim & Bev Cone)
37. 02:21 PM - Re: Cowling to airbox clearance- (was: Results of Annual Inspection on my -4) (LarryRobertHelming)
38. 02:45 PM - >Re:grass runway length for RV's (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
39. 02:52 PM - Re: knock it off (Tom Gummo)
40. 02:59 PM - trio (Wheeler North)
41. 03:09 PM - Re: Liability when you sell an RV? (Gert)
42. 03:11 PM - Re: Liability when you sell an RV? (John Helms)
43. 03:20 PM - Vortex generators (Mickey Coggins)
44. 03:24 PM - List Police (Wheeler North)
45. 03:49 PM - Re: >Re:grass runway length for RV's (Scott Vanartsdalen)
46. 04:16 PM - Re: Vortex generators (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
47. 04:43 PM - Re: Liability when you sell an RV? (Smcm75@aol.com)
48. 06:10 PM - Re: Panel Cut-out for 2 1/4" Instrument (Kevin Horton)
49. 06:17 PM - Re: knock it off (Jim Thorne)
50. 06:24 PM - Re: 5 point harness on RV6 (GMC)
51. 06:45 PM - Wavering Gauge (Kyle Boatright)
52. 07:10 PM - Re: Wavering Gauge (linn walters)
53. 07:48 PM - More kit frustration!! (Dean Psiropoulos)
54. 08:21 PM - Re: More kit frustration!! (Sam Buchanan)
55. 08:34 PM - Re: More kit frustration!! (Jerry Springer)
56. 08:39 PM - Re: Van's Homecoming-- Where to eat 1.70 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPSSimilar (Jerry Springer)
57. 08:44 PM - >Re: Vortex generators (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
58. 08:54 PM - Re: More kit frustration!! (linn walters)
59. 08:56 PM - >Re:Vortex generators (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 5 point harness on RV6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh@argo.net.au>
Has any one got any pictures or clear instructions on how to fit the Van's 5th
(crotch)harness strap to an RV6? I'm told it can be done with a few mods - any
advice would be most welcome before I start cutting things!
Thanks
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Shirley Harding
RV6QB ...Prop on!!!
Perth, Western Australia
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: grass runway length for RV's? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Just go over to Amana and practice! You can always go to the Colony Inn
between attempts and increase your gross!
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: grass runway length for RV's?
> --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
> Guys,
>
> For those of you with experience flying RV's off grass strips, what would
> you consider the minimum safe runway length? I know, it depends on a
> variety of factors, so in this case lets assume no obstacles at either
> end higher than 6' (i.e. a cornfield in August) and no higher terrain or
> obstacles beyond that, relatively level & smooth runway surface,
> operating at gross weight with 180hp / CS, on a hot/humid day (say 95 F)
> at 880' msl, with no headwind. Maybe throw in a bit of dew or post-rain
> moisture on the grass to reduce braking effectiveness, and this would be
> about the worst case scenario for me here in Iowa. Would 1700' be
> adequate under these conditions? I imagine takeoff would be a non-event,
> so landing and getting stopped without too much pucker factor would be my
> main concern....
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D finishing....
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: grass runway length for RV's? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rvsearey@aol.com
Mark,
I flew my RV-4 off a 1400' private grass runway (1000' elev) all the
time I had it. You are right, takeoff is no problem at any weight. Landing is
no problem either as long as you are experienced in short field procedures
and don't get excessive speed on final. There were a couple of times I did a
go-around because I let the speed get too high and then floated down the runway.
In my 4 I calculated that 70mph was a good short field speed for me based on
what MY stall speed was. Yours may be different.
Dan Decker
RV-4 built, flown and regrettably sold
SeaRey getting inspected today
RV-7 ordered and waiting
Message 4
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| Subject: | Results of Annual Inspection on my -4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
I just finished the 3rd annual inspection on my -4 and thought I make a
quick post summarizing the more interesting findings. Thankfully, there
were few interesting findings. The aircraft now has 221 hours. It has a
180hp A1A with Lasar ignition and Performance Airflow fuel injection. The
prop is a CS Hartzell.
The airframe presented no problems save for the rudder which now has small
cracks on 3 of the forward rivets on 3 skin stiffeners on the starboard
side. My rudder has an 0.016 skin and has RTV in the trailing edge per
Van's original recommendation. I have stop-drilled the cracks and have
started a new rudder with an 0.020 skin. On these stiffeners, I will use
ProSeal in addition to rivets.
Both the fuel injection system and the electronic ignition continue to
perform flawlessly. I can't tell that I save any fuel or gain any power
with the Lasar system - I'm just happy to have everything working.
Again, I found a severly cracked plate that mounts the airbox to the air
induction/fuel metering system. This same part was found cracked and
replaced at last year's annual. My current hypothesis is that the lower
cowl pre-loads the airbox via the rubber snout at the air intake. I have
cut away a small portion of the snout in an attempt to relieve the preload
without sacraficing seal quality. Clearly, I will have to keep an eye on
this.
I also noticed I have lost a single eyelet on one of the hinge strips on the
cowl. At this point, I will simply keep an eye on the eyelets, as I don't
have a good long-term strategy.
The tires still have another year of tread remaining. I have 2 years on
these Aero Trainers and will end up with 3 years if they make it to the next
annual. The brake pads are still the orginal set. Some wear is evident,
but still well above the minimum thickness requirement. I usually land on
long, paved runways, so the brakes don't get much hard use.
I have 3 years on the orginal Concorde gel cell and see no reason to replace
it. For the first time, I had a compression test done on the engine. I
don't have tools and have never done one, so I had the field FBO do this for
me. The lowest cylinder was 76psi.
All told, this annual cost me 6 quarts of oil, one oil filter, and an airbox
mouting plate. Plus about 3 days of my labor with my Dad's help. The
rudder cost, however, has yet to tallied.
Dean Pichon
Bolton, MA
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
My -6A elevators, after about 200 hours, have developed about 1/2 of play (1/4"
up and down) relative to each other at the trailing edge. I'm guessing at the
number, as I haven't actually measured it yet. I find this when, on pre-flight,
I grap both trailing edges, and pull one up while pushing the other down.
Has anyone else noticed this "problem"? I'm not sure what could cause this other
than a slight (very slight) elongation of the hole in the control horns. Perhaps
there is a better way to tie the 2 horns together than just the single
bolt from the push/pull tube bearing.
Andy
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: elevator play |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Andy,
If the bolt between the horns was loose or not torqued properly, this could
cause the play you described. This would be the first thing I check.
Pat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: RV-List: elevator play
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
<winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
>
> My -6A elevators, after about 200 hours, have developed about 1/2 of play
(1/4" up and down) relative to each other at the trailing edge. I'm
guessing at the number, as I haven't actually measured it yet. I find this
when, on pre-flight, I grap both trailing edges, and pull one up while
pushing the other down.
>
> Has anyone else noticed this "problem"? I'm not sure what could cause
this other than a slight (very slight) elongation of the hole in the control
horns. Perhaps there is a better way to tie the 2 horns together than just
the single bolt from the push/pull tube bearing.
>
> Andy
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: elevator play |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Its the bolt that goes through both elevator horns, most likely. I sure
would not fly until it is fixed.
At 07:54 AM 8/30/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
><winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
>
>My -6A elevators, after about 200 hours, have developed about 1/2 of play
>(1/4" up and down) relative to each other at the trailing edge. I'm
>guessing at the number, as I haven't actually measured it yet. I find
>this when, on pre-flight, I grap both trailing edges, and pull one up
>while pushing the other down.
>
>Has anyone else noticed this "problem"? I'm not sure what could cause
>this other than a slight (very slight) elongation of the hole in the
>control horns. Perhaps there is a better way to tie the 2 horns together
>than just the single bolt from the push/pull tube bearing.
>
>Andy
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
Andy, I was never happy with a single bolt holding the elevator horns
together and as an attach point for the control tube. So I've always drilled
another hole in the horns and added another through bolt with a steel tubing
spacer and it really firms up the elevators as an assembly. My thought is
that if I loose the control tube for some reason I can use elevator trim to
maintain flight. And I'd like them both to be doing the same thing...
steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Aircraft Technical
Book Company
Subject: RV-List: elevator play
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
<winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
My -6A elevators, after about 200 hours, have developed about 1/2 of play
(1/4" up and down) relative to each other at the trailing edge. I'm
guessing at the number, as I haven't actually measured it yet. I find this
when, on pre-flight, I grap both trailing edges, and pull one up while
pushing the other down.
Has anyone else noticed this "problem"? I'm not sure what could cause this
other than a slight (very slight) elongation of the hole in the control
horns. Perhaps there is a better way to tie the 2 horns together than just
the single bolt from the push/pull tube bearing.
Andy
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Nationair insurance news |
--> RV-List message posted by: "MHRV" <MHRV@houston.rr.com>
Does anyone have any experience with getting builders insurance coverage
through State Farm Insurance?
Thanks,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <Scott.Fink@microchip.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Nationair insurance news
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott.Fink@Microchip.com
>
> Not mine! I specifically asked this and was told no it wasn't covered
> (Farmer's).
>
> Scott
>
>
> <dfiggins@es.com>
> Sent by: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> 08/27/2004 10:59 AM
> Please respond to rv-list
>
>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> cc:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Nationair insurance news
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: <dfiggins@es.com>
>
> As long as I am building in my garage I assume I am covered by my
> homeowners policy, is this a valid assumption?
>
> Dave Figgins RV-7A empennage
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Results of Annual Inspection on my -4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>Again, I found a severly cracked plate that mounts the airbox to the air
>induction/fuel metering system. This same part was found cracked and
>replaced at last year's annual. My current hypothesis is that the lower
>cowl pre-loads the airbox via the rubber snout at the air intake. I have
>cut away a small portion of the snout in an attempt to relieve the preload
>without sacraficing seal quality. Clearly, I will have to keep an eye on
>this.
Thanks for the reminder! I also have a crack in the same FAB plate. Annual
is due next month so gotta get one ordered. Not sure if it's the boot to
the cowling or just Lycosaur shake in general that cracks them.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 11
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| Subject: | New Lycoming 360 aluminum CS propeller for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
A couple of you might be interested in this for your RV.
For the Lycoming 360 engine. Especially the non-counterweighted crankshaft
engine.
MT Propeller is offering their aluminum blade 2 blade propeller for $6,399
plus shipping and any applicable sales tax.
There is no mid range RPM restriction on any Lycoming 360 engine when using
this propeller. (Designed determined by analysis and verified by vibration
testing in flight.)
The propeller comes complete with a fabricated spinner to match your cowl
installation.
The MT governor is available for $1,000. No additional shipping charge when
ordered with the MT Propeller.
Propeller shipping charges are $80 for crating and $280 for delivery to you
door in the USA lower 48.
Delivered without spinner attached. Requires rear bulkhead bolts to be
safety wired, and spinner to be installed.
I can be contacted at _jim@lessdrag.com_ (mailto:jim@lessdrag.com) , or by
calling me at (805) 795-5377.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
HR2 OEM distributor for MT Propeller
_www.lessdrag.com_ (http://www.lessdrag.com)
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: elevator play |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Thats a good idea. I'm going to do it before my next flight
>
> Andy, I was never happy with a single bolt holding the elevator horns
> together and as an attach point for the control tube. So I've always
drilled
> another hole in the horns and added another through bolt with a steel
tubing
> spacer and it really firms up the elevators as an assembly. My thought is
> that if I loose the control tube for some reason I can use elevator trim
to
> maintain flight. And I'd like them both to be doing the same thing...
do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Results of Annual Inspection on my -4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
At 10:51 AM 8/30/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>
> >Again, I found a severly cracked plate that mounts the airbox to the air
> >induction/fuel metering system. This same part was found cracked and
> >replaced at last year's annual. My current hypothesis is that the lower
> >cowl pre-loads the airbox via the rubber snout at the air intake. I have
> >cut away a small portion of the snout in an attempt to relieve the preload
> >without sacraficing seal quality. Clearly, I will have to keep an eye on
> >this.
Why is it important to have a seal between the snout of the airbox and the
cowling intake hole? I had a rubber seal there when I purchased my RV-4.
Because of vibration, it tore away and the close fitting snout gauged away
some of the glass around the intake opening. I cut back the snout about 1/4
inch. I never replaced the seal. I have seen no problem, but that does not
meant that there IS no problem. I have an IO-360 with C/S prop. Am I
missing something? Thanks.
Louis
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF, 420 Hrs. "Miss Viagra"
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: elevator play |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 8/30/2004 6:56:39 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
winterland@rkymtnhi.com writes:
Has anyone else noticed this "problem"? I'm not sure what could cause this
other than a slight (very slight) elongation of the hole in the control
horns. Perhaps there is a better way to tie the 2 horns together than just the
single bolt from the push/pull tube bearing.
===================================
I never liked the way this was engineered so I drilled a hole and installed
a second bolt and spacer about 1 inch aft of the push rod attach bolt. I
have zero play and this is something I always check during preflight.
I agree that play here is a very bad thing and must be fixed ASAP.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 710 hrs)
Message 15
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| Subject: | Results of Annual Inspection on my -4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I have also found that the cracks start where the mounting bolts go
through. I looked closely and noticed the the bolt is not square to the
surface so the washer really digs in and that is exactly where the crack
starts from. I have AFP injection which has a different FAB mounting, I think.
At 02:51 PM 8/30/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>
> >Again, I found a severly cracked plate that mounts the airbox to the air
> >induction/fuel metering system. This same part was found cracked and
> >replaced at last year's annual. My current hypothesis is that the lower
> >cowl pre-loads the airbox via the rubber snout at the air intake. I have
> >cut away a small portion of the snout in an attempt to relieve the preload
> >without sacraficing seal quality. Clearly, I will have to keep an eye on
> >this.
>
>Thanks for the reminder! I also have a crack in the same FAB plate. Annual
>is due next month so gotta get one ordered. Not sure if it's the boot to
>the cowling or just Lycosaur shake in general that cracks them.
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>RV10 '51
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 16
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| Subject: | Results of Annual Inspection on my -4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Your are probably loosing some ram air effect.
At 11:40 AM 8/30/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
>
>At 10:51 AM 8/30/2004, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
> >
> >
> > >Again, I found a severly cracked plate that mounts the airbox to the air
> > >induction/fuel metering system. This same part was found cracked and
> > >replaced at last year's annual. My current hypothesis is that the lower
> > >cowl pre-loads the airbox via the rubber snout at the air intake. I have
> > >cut away a small portion of the snout in an attempt to relieve the preload
> > >without sacraficing seal quality. Clearly, I will have to keep an eye on
> > >this.
>
>Why is it important to have a seal between the snout of the airbox and the
>cowling intake hole? I had a rubber seal there when I purchased my RV-4.
>Because of vibration, it tore away and the close fitting snout gauged away
>some of the glass around the intake opening. I cut back the snout about 1/4
>inch. I never replaced the seal. I have seen no problem, but that does not
>meant that there IS no problem. I have an IO-360 with C/S prop. Am I
>missing something? Thanks.
>
>Louis
>
>
>-
>Louis I Willig
>1640 Oakwood Dr.
>Penn Valley, PA 19072
>610 668-4964
>RV-4, N180PF, 420 Hrs. "Miss Viagra"
>190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 17
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| Subject: | re: new near vision procedure |
--> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
Dave;
After brousing around a little, I found a fairly straight-forward site that
covers the aspects of CK (conductive keratoplasty) and the expected outcomes
(http://www.emedicine.com/oph/topic736.htm). Do a little more research on your
own, and I think you'll avoid it. Basically, it's too good to be true for most
of us. A good friend of mine owns one of these machines. They've been around
awhile now, and his sits in the corner of a room with it's pretty white cover on
it.
Basic eye-anotomy: We have 3 parts: The length of the eye from the front of
the cornea to the retina, the cornea (front clear membrane in front of the
iris), and the variable powered lens just behind the iris. The length of the eye
and shape
of the cornea are fixed, and change little with the years. The lens is an
incredible piece of work: Controlled by a muscle, it thickens in it's
longitudinal shape and increases it's curvature when the ciliary muscles
contract. These muscles are not the extra-ocular muscles that help our eyes to
point correctly; these are inside the eye and only act to change the shape of
the lens when focusing on your charts or focusing on the spam-can you just
passed.
Every year from age 6 and on, the lens hardens and loses flexibilty. As it
does, you lose your variable focus system. IF you have no Rx (perfect 20/20+
distance acuity), then you lose the ability to see up close. First the phone
book, then the charts get tough, vision worsens in low light and you start
ordering the "special" at restaurants instead of getting out your readers, and
eventually everything within zero to 5 feet is difficult to see (especially the
meal on your plate). At the same time the lens is hardening, from about age 30,
it also starts turning yellow and becoming hazy. Depending on how fast this
progresses, you could end up losing best-corrected acuity anytime after age 40.
This is called a cataract. Wahoo!
I say all this, because when you look at the procedure, it changes the shape of
the cornea. The cornea is fine. It's not the problem. The only way to get
good far and near focus back is to take the lens out of the eye and replace it
with one that is flexible again. They're working on it. We may be 5-10-15
years out yet, but bifocal implants are coming. Too many of us need them now!
At the same time, it's not a muscular problem either, so you can't "exercise" it
back into submission.
If you scan down that webpage I referred to, there is a little paragraph that
says they are using the procedure to make one eye nearsighted and leave the
other one farsighted. Hmm. I've seen this work about 1/3 of the time with
those who wear contacts. I don't know that that's what I'd want to have while
landing on a short grass strip 45 minutes after sunset in drizzly weather....
For "Black" and others, Do Not Archive - this has nothing to do with building an
airplane, only seeing where we're going.
Bruce Breckenridge
40018
Message 18
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| Subject: | Results of Annual Inspection on my -4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
The seal between the cowl and the airbox is intended to ensure that all the
air entering the air intake in the lower cowl goes directly into the airbox.
Any leakage at that joint will prevent the engine from delivering full
power. Does your system produce at least 24" manfiold pressure at 2400 rpm
at 7500 feet? If yes, I'll trim a little more from my seal.
Dean
----Original Message Follows----
From: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Results of Annual Inspection on my -4
--> RV-List message posted by: Louis Willig <larywil@comcast.net>
At 10:51 AM 8/30/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>
> >Again, I found a severly cracked plate that mounts the airbox to the air
> >induction/fuel metering system. This same part was found cracked and
> >replaced at last year's annual. My current hypothesis is that the lower
> >cowl pre-loads the airbox via the rubber snout at the air intake. I
have
> >cut away a small portion of the snout in an attempt to relieve the
preload
> >without sacraficing seal quality. Clearly, I will have to keep an eye
on
> >this.
Why is it important to have a seal between the snout of the airbox and the
cowling intake hole? I had a rubber seal there when I purchased my RV-4.
Because of vibration, it tore away and the close fitting snout gauged away
some of the glass around the intake opening. I cut back the snout about 1/4
inch. I never replaced the seal. I have seen no problem, but that does not
meant that there IS no problem. I have an IO-360 with C/S prop. Am I
missing something? Thanks.
Louis
-
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF, 420 Hrs. "Miss Viagra"
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: re: new near vision procedure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Brinlee" <abfbrinlee@att.net>
What is the safest way for us over 40 group to fly with near vision
problems.??
It drives me nuts. I wear contacts for distance...
I am curious what others are doing to solve the problem without having the
wife navigate.
Doug Brinlee
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <BBreckenridge@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: re: new near vision procedure
> --> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
>
> Dave;
>
> After brousing around a little, I found a fairly straight-forward site
that
> covers the aspects of CK (conductive keratoplasty) and the expected
outcomes
> (http://www.emedicine.com/oph/topic736.htm). Do a little more research on
your
> own, and I think you'll avoid it. Basically, it's too good to be true for
most
> of us. A good friend of mine owns one of these machines. They've been
around
> awhile now, and his sits in the corner of a room with it's pretty white
cover on
> it.
>
> Basic eye-anotomy: We have 3 parts: The length of the eye from the front
of
> the cornea to the retina, the cornea (front clear membrane in front of the
> iris), and the variable powered lens just behind the iris. The length of
the eye and shape
> of the cornea are fixed, and change little with the years. The lens is an
> incredible piece of work: Controlled by a muscle, it thickens in it's
> longitudinal shape and increases it's curvature when the ciliary muscles
> contract. These muscles are not the extra-ocular muscles that help our
eyes to
> point correctly; these are inside the eye and only act to change the shape
of
> the lens when focusing on your charts or focusing on the spam-can you just
> passed.
>
> Every year from age 6 and on, the lens hardens and loses flexibilty. As
it
> does, you lose your variable focus system. IF you have no Rx (perfect
20/20+
> distance acuity), then you lose the ability to see up close. First the
phone
> book, then the charts get tough, vision worsens in low light and you start
> ordering the "special" at restaurants instead of getting out your readers,
and
> eventually everything within zero to 5 feet is difficult to see
(especially the
> meal on your plate). At the same time the lens is hardening, from about
age 30,
> it also starts turning yellow and becoming hazy. Depending on how fast
this
> progresses, you could end up losing best-corrected acuity anytime after
age 40.
> This is called a cataract. Wahoo!
>
> I say all this, because when you look at the procedure, it changes the
shape of
> the cornea. The cornea is fine. It's not the problem. The only way to
get
> good far and near focus back is to take the lens out of the eye and
replace it
> with one that is flexible again. They're working on it. We may be
5-10-15
> years out yet, but bifocal implants are coming. Too many of us need them
now!
>
> At the same time, it's not a muscular problem either, so you can't
"exercise" it back into submission.
>
> If you scan down that webpage I referred to, there is a little paragraph
that
> says they are using the procedure to make one eye nearsighted and leave
the
> other one farsighted. Hmm. I've seen this work about 1/3 of the time
with
> those who wear contacts. I don't know that that's what I'd want to have
while
> landing on a short grass strip 45 minutes after sunset in drizzly
weather....
>
> For "Black" and others, Do Not Archive - this has nothing to do with
building an
> airplane, only seeing where we're going.
>
> Bruce Breckenridge
> 40018
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | re: new near vision procedure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
<snippage of lots of good stuff>
>I say all this, because when you look at the procedure, it changes the
>shape of
>the cornea. The cornea is fine. It's not the problem. The only way to
>get
>good far and near focus back is to take the lens out of the eye and replace
>it
>with one that is flexible again. They're working on it. We may be 5-10-15
>years out yet, but bifocal implants are coming. Too many of us need them
>now!
>
This is cool information! I just turned forty and have noticed the near
vision starting to go. "Over 40 eyes" I've heard it called. I used to be
able to get up reeeally close to check close quarter riveting, parts fit,
etc. No more! Big change since late 90's on the RV8 project.
It ain't easy gettin' older.
As for optical implants, do you have to wear bigger sunglasses?
HEHehehehehe.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
do not archive
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's Homecoming |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Doug,
There's plenty to see on Ssturday and Sunday morning. Pretty much everybody
comes in by Satyrday at noon. Then most of them stick around until Sunday
afternoon. There are normally over 100 RV's in attendance and the Van's
factory in open. Breakfast (Saturday and Sunday) and lunch (Saturday) is
available at the factory. Saturday dinner is 9on your own with the Van's
dinner saturday night at a local hotel. Usually at the Holiday Inn in
Wilsonville.
Mike Robertson
>From: Doug Shenk <dshenk3@bresnan.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Homecoming
>Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 00:47:58 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Shenk <dshenk3@bresnan.net>
>
>I may get a chance to get to Portland this weekend and go the homecoming
>for the first time. My question is how Saturday and Sunday compare with
>respect to amount of activity and to how many RV's are likely to be
>available for inspection (read: get a much needed dose of
>inspiration!). I suspect I will have to leave fairly early Sunday and
>wondering how much of the event I'll miss.
>Any info appreciated and you can let me know off list. Thanks. Do
>not archive.
>dshenk3@bresnan.net rv6a quickbuild kit but slowbuild technique!
>
>
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: 5 point harness on RV6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Shirly: Van's has a 5th point harness kit that I installed in my -6 with just
a little tweaking here and there. Maybe I was just lucky (which would be a
first) but the kit, which I think is for the RV-7 or 9, went in with just a few
mods in my non predrilled slow build -6.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final details
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: grass runway length for RV's? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer@improvementteam.com>
A procedure I used on a 1700' grass strip with my 170 (180hp, CS) was
similar. I had to clear trees on the approach end so I used full flaps and
then ended up picking up a little airspeed when getting down just past the
trees but with johnson bar flaps you can drop them the minute the wheels
touch to increase stall speed and it helps to make sure you stay put.
Easily landed with 1000' of runway left in front.
Point here again is good short field landing technique.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
Flying This Year!
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: grass runway length for RV's?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus
net>
Years ago, I practiced spot landing with maximum effort stops on a grass
runway prior to going into a one-way, 1700' strip with tall trees at one end
and a fruit orchard on the approach end, plus it was uphill( a plus) with
the wind above the trees occasionally a tailwind for departure( not a plus).
The first time I actually landed on the strip I had been practicing for, in
a 180 hp, fixed-pitch wooden prop RV-4, two-up( owner in the back), it sure
looked short while we were on final, but the slope contributed to that
appearance.
We actually aimed for the treetops on the approach end as the lift of the
wings will keep our flight path slightly above that, and practically drove
the machine right onto the ground with only a slight flare to preclude a
bounce.A wheel landing was used to eliminate float, followed by raising the
tail to kill the lift while coming on the brakes moderately until an overrun
was not in the cards, and we used less than half the runway.
This was at sea level, on a summer day, which on the Pacific Coast means
around 20C. Add a little lift from the extra bouyancy of both of us holding
our breaths during the latter stages of teh approach and landing.....
The departure was equally impressive due to the performance of these
machines, and that's without a constant-speed prop. Taxi up against the tall
trees, swing the tail almost into the trunks, full power, minimum-drag
attitude for acceleration, hold it level after liftoff for a little extra
airspeed when encountering that slight tailwind at the treetop level and
there's plenty of room left.
Which is a long way of saying that you should be fine within the parameters
you describe. Walk off the distance on a longer runway, then perhaps
practice to see how it feels and performs for you before committing
yourself.
SCott in VAncouver
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: grass runway length for RV's?
> --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
> Guys,
>
> For those of you with experience flying RV's off grass strips, what would
> you consider the minimum safe runway length? I know, it depends on a
> variety of factors, so in this case lets assume no obstacles at either
> end higher than 6' (i.e. a cornfield in August) and no higher terrain or
> obstacles beyond that, relatively level & smooth runway surface,
> operating at gross weight with 180hp / CS, on a hot/humid day (say 95 F)
> at 880' msl, with no headwind. Maybe throw in a bit of dew or post-rain
> moisture on the grass to reduce braking effectiveness, and this would be
> about the worst case scenario for me here in Iowa. Would 1700' be
> adequate under these conditions? I imagine takeoff would be a non-event,
> so landing and getting stopped without too much pucker factor would be my
> main concern....
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D finishing....
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: re: new near vision procedure |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 8/30/04 9:42:31 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
abfbrinlee@att.net writes:
<< What is the safest way for us over 40 group to fly with near vision
problems.?? It drives me nuts. I wear contacts for distance...
I am curious what others are doing to solve the problem without having the
wife navigate.
Doug Brinlee >>
They call 'em bifocals. A pain in the you know what, but at least I can see.
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final details
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: re: new near vision procedure |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Doug Brinlee wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Brinlee" <abfbrinlee@att.net>
>
>What is the safest way for us over 40 group to fly with near vision
>problems.??
>It drives me nuts. I wear contacts for distance...
>I am curious what others are doing to solve the problem without having the
>wife navigate.
>Doug Brinlee
>
I was 20/400 (legally blind) correctable to 20/20 with glasses. I had
LASIK surgery done ...... without the monovision (one eye near, the
other far) and although really happy with the outcome, there are some
down-sides. 3 years after surgery, street lights in the distance have
crude star patterns to them, but get sharper the closer they get. When
I look at the full moon I see a 'upside down mickey mouse head' with the
face being the bright moon and the 'ears' as darker 'false moons'.
Don't know how to say it any other way. I'm 20/20 in one eye and 20/35
in the other now.
Anyway, I still have to use reading glasses (2.5 cheapies from Sams) and
I had my prescription sun glasses made with bifocals focused a little
further out for the instrument panel. I still carry the clear reading
glasses though. Helps me read the menu when we fly for food!
There is newer technology for 'mapping' the eye for LASIK that uses
wave-front technology .... which is supposed to be more accurate that
the procedure that I had. I may have the procedure done again sometime
in the future.
Hope this helps some ....
Linn
Do not archive
>
>do not archive
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <BBreckenridge@att.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: re: new near vision procedure
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
>>
>>Dave;
>>
>>After brousing around a little, I found a fairly straight-forward site
>>
>>
>that
>
>
>>covers the aspects of CK (conductive keratoplasty) and the expected
>>
>>
>outcomes
>
>
>>(http://www.emedicine.com/oph/topic736.htm). Do a little more research on
>>
>>
>your
>
>
>>own, and I think you'll avoid it. Basically, it's too good to be true for
>>
>>
>most
>
>
>>of us. A good friend of mine owns one of these machines. They've been
>>
>>
>around
>
>
>>awhile now, and his sits in the corner of a room with it's pretty white
>>
>>
>cover on
>
>
>>it.
>>
>>Basic eye-anotomy: We have 3 parts: The length of the eye from the front
>>
>>
>of
>
>
>>the cornea to the retina, the cornea (front clear membrane in front of the
>>iris), and the variable powered lens just behind the iris. The length of
>>
>>
>the eye and shape
>
>
>>of the cornea are fixed, and change little with the years. The lens is an
>>incredible piece of work: Controlled by a muscle, it thickens in it's
>>longitudinal shape and increases it's curvature when the ciliary muscles
>>contract. These muscles are not the extra-ocular muscles that help our
>>
>>
>eyes to
>
>
>>point correctly; these are inside the eye and only act to change the shape
>>
>>
>of
>
>
>>the lens when focusing on your charts or focusing on the spam-can you just
>>passed.
>>
>>Every year from age 6 and on, the lens hardens and loses flexibilty. As
>>
>>
>it
>
>
>>does, you lose your variable focus system. IF you have no Rx (perfect
>>
>>
>20/20+
>
>
>>distance acuity), then you lose the ability to see up close. First the
>>
>>
>phone
>
>
>>book, then the charts get tough, vision worsens in low light and you start
>>ordering the "special" at restaurants instead of getting out your readers,
>>
>>
>and
>
>
>>eventually everything within zero to 5 feet is difficult to see
>>
>>
>(especially the
>
>
>>meal on your plate). At the same time the lens is hardening, from about
>>
>>
>age 30,
>
>
>>it also starts turning yellow and becoming hazy. Depending on how fast
>>
>>
>this
>
>
>>progresses, you could end up losing best-corrected acuity anytime after
>>
>>
>age 40.
>
>
>>This is called a cataract. Wahoo!
>>
>>I say all this, because when you look at the procedure, it changes the
>>
>>
>shape of
>
>
>>the cornea. The cornea is fine. It's not the problem. The only way to
>>
>>
>get
>
>
>>good far and near focus back is to take the lens out of the eye and
>>
>>
>replace it
>
>
>>with one that is flexible again. They're working on it. We may be
>>
>>
>5-10-15
>
>
>>years out yet, but bifocal implants are coming. Too many of us need them
>>
>>
>now!
>
>
>>At the same time, it's not a muscular problem either, so you can't
>>
>>
>"exercise" it back into submission.
>
>
>>If you scan down that webpage I referred to, there is a little paragraph
>>
>>
>that
>
>
>>says they are using the procedure to make one eye nearsighted and leave
>>
>>
>the
>
>
>>other one farsighted. Hmm. I've seen this work about 1/3 of the time
>>
>>
>with
>
>
>>those who wear contacts. I don't know that that's what I'd want to have
>>
>>
>while
>
>
>>landing on a short grass strip 45 minutes after sunset in drizzly
>>
>>
>weather....
>
>
>>For "Black" and others, Do Not Archive - this has nothing to do with
>>
>>
>building an
>
>
>>airplane, only seeing where we're going.
>>
>>Bruce Breckenridge
>>40018
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: re: new near vision procedure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> What is the safest way for us over 40 group to fly with near vision
> problems.??
> It drives me nuts. I wear contacts for distance...
> I am curious what others are doing to solve the problem without having the
> wife navigate.
> Doug Brinlee
This might be a good solution...
http://www.airplanethings.com/av-sun.htm
Up until just this year, age 51, I could read charts in the cockpit no
problem. Was just up in another guy's plane last weekend and he tossed me a
chart and asked me to get a frequency for him. Whoa, almost couldn't get it!
I'm ordering some of these sunglasses.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | re: new near vision procedure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
I have had some personal experience here. My youthful perfect vision
suddenly went south during USAF pilot training in the mid sixties. For many
years, say from age 22 to age 45, it gradually got worse. Then maybe 10
years ago the ophthalmologist at my HMO said it was time for cataract
surgery and they would replace the natural lens in my eyes with new plastic
ones, and the plastic lenses would correct my vision too. They did one eye,
then a few months later did the other one. The next time I took the test
for my driver's license, they removed the corrective lens restriction on my
license. On my last flight physical, they removed the corrective lens
requirement for flying - the first time since 1966.
My vision without glasses is not perfect. Even though I legally don't have
to, I still wear glasses for driving and flying, and most of the time for
everything else. But I don't have to. One of my eyes is now slightly far
sighted; the other slightly near sighted. I can read just fine without
glasses, but better with them. Same for most everything else.
For those with normal but aging vision, the answer may be bifocals, or
trifocals, or what I have been wearing since long before my eyes were
surgically corrected, varifocal lenses, where the correction gradually
changes without abrupt steps or lines. And they can put them in those studly
fighter-pilot frames just like your sun glasses. Or little round wire rims
if that's how you see yourself.
Terry
--> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
I say all this, because when you look at the procedure, it changes the shape
of
the cornea. The cornea is fine. It's not the problem. The only way to get
good far and near focus back is to take the lens out of the eye and replace
it
with one that is flexible again. They're working on it. We may be 5-10-15
years out yet, but bifocal implants are coming. Too many of us need them
now!
At the same time, it's not a muscular problem either, so you can't
"exercise" it back into submission.
If you scan down that webpage I referred to, there is a little paragraph
that
says they are using the procedure to make one eye nearsighted and leave the
other one farsighted. Hmm. I've seen this work about 1/3 of the time with
those who wear contacts. I don't know that that's what I'd want to have
while
landing on a short grass strip 45 minutes after sunset in drizzly
weather....
For "Black" and others, Do Not Archive - this has nothing to do with
building an
airplane, only seeing where we're going.
Bruce Breckenridge
40018
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: re: new near vision procedure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer@improvementteam.com>
I have to admit I have been dealing with this for a few years. I have had
readers and found I needed them more and more. They were rarely at hand
when I needed them. I found even driving or flying I could see just fine
until I needed to see the sectional or map. I ordered a pair of bi-focals
with just glass on top. It took me a while to get used to these but now I
wear them most all the time. Still don't like wearing glasses, but being
able to read everything I touch again is priceless. I am pretty used to
them now and wear them all day. They are the photo grey ones also for
outdoor sunlight.
Just the option I use.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
Flying This Year!
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: re: new near vision procedure
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Brinlee" <abfbrinlee@att.net>
What is the safest way for us over 40 group to fly with near vision
problems.??
It drives me nuts. I wear contacts for distance...
I am curious what others are doing to solve the problem without having the
wife navigate.
Doug Brinlee
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <BBreckenridge@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: re: new near vision procedure
> --> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
>
> Dave;
>
> After brousing around a little, I found a fairly straight-forward site
that
> covers the aspects of CK (conductive keratoplasty) and the expected
outcomes
> (http://www.emedicine.com/oph/topic736.htm). Do a little more research on
your
> own, and I think you'll avoid it. Basically, it's too good to be true for
most
> of us. A good friend of mine owns one of these machines. They've been
around
> awhile now, and his sits in the corner of a room with it's pretty white
cover on
> it.
>
> Basic eye-anotomy: We have 3 parts: The length of the eye from the front
of
> the cornea to the retina, the cornea (front clear membrane in front of the
> iris), and the variable powered lens just behind the iris. The length of
the eye and shape
> of the cornea are fixed, and change little with the years. The lens is an
> incredible piece of work: Controlled by a muscle, it thickens in it's
> longitudinal shape and increases it's curvature when the ciliary muscles
> contract. These muscles are not the extra-ocular muscles that help our
eyes to
> point correctly; these are inside the eye and only act to change the shape
of
> the lens when focusing on your charts or focusing on the spam-can you just
> passed.
>
> Every year from age 6 and on, the lens hardens and loses flexibilty. As
it
> does, you lose your variable focus system. IF you have no Rx (perfect
20/20+
> distance acuity), then you lose the ability to see up close. First the
phone
> book, then the charts get tough, vision worsens in low light and you start
> ordering the "special" at restaurants instead of getting out your readers,
and
> eventually everything within zero to 5 feet is difficult to see
(especially the
> meal on your plate). At the same time the lens is hardening, from about
age 30,
> it also starts turning yellow and becoming hazy. Depending on how fast
this
> progresses, you could end up losing best-corrected acuity anytime after
age 40.
> This is called a cataract. Wahoo!
>
> I say all this, because when you look at the procedure, it changes the
shape of
> the cornea. The cornea is fine. It's not the problem. The only way to
get
> good far and near focus back is to take the lens out of the eye and
replace it
> with one that is flexible again. They're working on it. We may be
5-10-15
> years out yet, but bifocal implants are coming. Too many of us need them
now!
>
> At the same time, it's not a muscular problem either, so you can't
"exercise" it back into submission.
>
> If you scan down that webpage I referred to, there is a little paragraph
that
> says they are using the procedure to make one eye nearsighted and leave
the
> other one farsighted. Hmm. I've seen this work about 1/3 of the time
with
> those who wear contacts. I don't know that that's what I'd want to have
while
> landing on a short grass strip 45 minutes after sunset in drizzly
weather....
>
> For "Black" and others, Do Not Archive - this has nothing to do with
building an
> airplane, only seeing where we're going.
>
> Bruce Breckenridge
> 40018
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: re: new near vision procedure |
--> RV-List message posted by: ogoodwin@comcast.net
There's no free lunch, it seems. Due to the hardening of the lense, you can have
either uncorrected good near vision or good far vision, but not both.
I'm 55 and have had Lasik and ended up with the situation you mention: one eye
better than the other. I had the option of going back to further correct the
weaker eye (the better one is 20/15 and the weaker about 20/25) but I discovered
that the brain will take over and compensate; I don't even notice the difference
most of the time, and it's never been a problem even on misty, rainy nights,
and is certainly not a problem under better conditions. It took about
a month to adapt. The reason I didn't go for the enhancement of the weaker eye
is that it also works in reverse: I can still read without correction in good
light, and can easily see the instrument panel in any light without wearing
correction. If both eyes were 20/15, I'd have to wear reading glasses to see
the instruments. I can't imagine any problems as long as your vision with both
eyes together is good.
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
>
> Dave;
>
> After brousing around a little, I found a fairly straight-forward site that
> covers the aspects of CK (conductive keratoplasty) and the expected outcomes
> (http://www.emedicine.com/oph/topic736.htm). Do a little more research on your
> own, and I think you'll avoid it. Basically, it's too good to be true for most
> of us. A good friend of mine owns one of these machines. They've been around
> awhile now, and his sits in the corner of a room with it's pretty white cover
on
> it.
>
> Basic eye-anotomy: We have 3 parts: The length of the eye from the front of
> the cornea to the retina, the cornea (front clear membrane in front of the
> iris), and the variable powered lens just behind the iris. The length of the
> eye and shape
> of the cornea are fixed, and change little with the years. The lens is an
> incredible piece of work: Controlled by a muscle, it thickens in it's
> longitudinal shape and increases it's curvature when the ciliary muscles
> contract. These muscles are not the extra-ocular muscles that help our eyes to
> point correctly; these are inside the eye and only act to change the shape of
> the lens when focusing on your charts or focusing on the spam-can you just
> passed.
>
> Every year from age 6 and on, the lens hardens and loses flexibilty. As it
> does, you lose your variable focus system. IF you have no Rx (perfect 20/20+
> distance acuity), then you lose the ability to see up close. First the phone
> book, then the charts get tough, vision worsens in low light and you start
> ordering the "special" at restaurants instead of getting out your readers, and
> eventually everything within zero to 5 feet is difficult to see (especially the
> meal on your plate). At the same time the lens is hardening, from about age 30,
> it also starts turning yellow and becoming hazy. Depending on how fast this
> progresses, you could end up losing best-corrected acuity anytime after age 40.
> This is called a cataract. Wahoo!
>
> I say all this, because when you look at the procedure, it changes the shape
of
> the cornea. The cornea is fine. It's not the problem. The only way to get
> good far and near focus back is to take the lens out of the eye and replace it
> with one that is flexible again. They're working on it. We may be 5-10-15
> years out yet, but bifocal implants are coming. Too many of us need them now!
>
> At the same time, it's not a muscular problem either, so you can't "exercise"
it
> back into submission.
>
> If you scan down that webpage I referred to, there is a little paragraph that
> says they are using the procedure to make one eye nearsighted and leave the
> other one farsighted. Hmm. I've seen this work about 1/3 of the time with
> those who wear contacts. I don't know that that's what I'd want to have while
> landing on a short grass strip 45 minutes after sunset in drizzly weather....
>
> For "Black" and others, Do Not Archive - this has nothing to do with building
an
> airplane, only seeing where we're going.
>
> Bruce Breckenridge
> 40018
>
>
>
>
>
>
There's no free lunch, it seems. Due to the hardening of the lense, you can have
either uncorrected good near vision or good far vision, but not both.
I'm 55 and have had Lasik and ended up with the situation you mention: one eye
better than the other. I had the option of going back to further correct the weaker
eye (the better one is 20/15 and the weaker about 20/25) but I discovered
that the brain will take over and compensate; I don't even notice the difference
most of the time, and it's never been a problem even on misty, rainy nights,
and is certainly not a problem under better conditions. It took about a month
to adapt. The reason I didn't go for the enhancement of the weaker eye is
that it also works in reverse: I can still read without correction in good light,
and can easily see the instrument panel in any light without wearing correction.
If both eyes were 20/15, I'd have to wear readingglasses to see the instruments.
I can't imagine any problems as long as your vision with both eyes together
is good.
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
Dave;
After brousing around a little, I found a fairly straight-forward site that
covers the aspects of CK (conductive keratoplasty) and the expected outcomes
(http://www.emedicine.com/oph/topic736.htm). Do a little more research on your
own, and I think you'll avoid it. Basically, it's too good to be true for most
of us. A good friend of mine owns one of these machines. They've been around
awhile now, and his sits in the corner of a room with it's pretty white cover
on
it.
Basic eye-anotomy: We have 3 parts: The length of the eye from the front of
the cornea to the retina, the cornea (front clear membrane in front of the
iris), and the variable powered lens just behind the iris. The length of the
eye and shape
of the
cornea are fixed, and change little with the years. The lens is an
incredible piece of work: Controlled by a muscle, it thickens in it's
longitudinal shape and increases it's curvature when the ciliary muscles
contract. These muscles are not the extra-ocular muscles that help our eyes to
point correctly; these are inside the eye and only act to change the shape of
the lens when focusing on your charts or focusing on the spam-can you just
passed.
Every year from age 6 and on, the lens hardens and loses flexibilty. As it
does, you lose your variable focus system. IF you have no Rx (perfect 20/20+
distance acuity), then you lose the ability to see up close. First the phone
book, then the charts get tough, vision worsens in low light and you start
ordering the "special" at restaurants instead of getting out your readers, and
eventually everything within zero to 5
feet is difficult to see (especially the
meal on your plate). At the same time the lens is hardening, from about age 30,
it also starts turning yellow and becoming hazy. Depending on how fast this
progresses, you could end up losing best-corrected acuity anytime after age 40.
This is called a cataract. Wahoo!
I say all this, because when you look at the procedure, it changes the shape of
the cornea. The cornea is fine. It's not the problem. The only way to get
good far and near focus back is to take the lens out of the eye and replace it
with one that is flexible again. They're working on it. We may be 5-10-15
years out yet, but bifocal implants are coming. Too many of us need them now!
At the same time, it's not a muscular problem either, so you can't "exercise"
it
back into submission.
If you scan down that webpage I referred to, there is
a little paragraph that
says they are using the procedure to make one eye nearsighted and leave the
other one farsighted. Hmm. I've seen this work about 1/3 of the time with
those who wear contacts. I don't know that that's what I'd want to have while
landing on a short grass strip 45 minutes after sunset in drizzly weather....
For "Black" and others, Do Not Archive - this has nothing to do with building
an
airplane, only seeing where we're going.
Bruce Breckenridge
40018
============
s: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: elevator play |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
yep, rick caldwell (of RV6 fame a few years ago) saved his ass by using elevator
trim to land his one design when the control stick no longer controlled the
elevators. Worth putting in a second bolt/spacer to tie the two halves together
making sure you can do it in a RV if that elevator horn/pushrod bolt fails
and comes out.
do not archive
Message 31
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| Subject: | re: new near vision procedure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
I've had the classic presbyopia pattern graduating from reading glasses to
full-time no-line bifocals. But I kept flying with stick-on bifocals on my
Serengeti's until this year. I was relatively happy with them but at my
recent eye exam I finally broke down and got prescription no-line
sunglasses. The difference is phenomenal. Everything, at any distance, is
now crystal clear. I can even read the Tachymeter scale on my new watch;-) I
can't believe I waited so long to get them.
Greg Young
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>
> > What is the safest way for us over 40 group to fly with near vision
> > problems.??
> > It drives me nuts. I wear contacts for distance...
> > I am curious what others are doing to solve the problem
> without having
> > the wife navigate.
> > Doug Brinlee
>
> This might be a good solution...
> http://www.airplanethings.com/av-sun.htm
>
> Up until just this year, age 51, I could read charts in the
> cockpit no problem. Was just up in another guy's plane last
> weekend and he tossed me a chart and asked me to get a
> frequency for him. Whoa, almost couldn't get it!
> I'm ordering some of these sunglasses.
>
> Randy Lervold
> www.rv-3.com
> www.rv-8.com
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Cowling to airbox clearance- (was: Results of Annual Inspection |
on my -4)
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 8/30/04 11:20:56 AM Central Daylight Time,
deanpichon@msn.com writes:
> The seal between the cowl and the airbox is intended to ensure that all the
>
> air entering the air intake in the lower cowl goes directly into the airbox.
>
>
>>>>
I would also imagine that leakage here (being higher pressure in the inlet
vs. inside the cowling) would also raise the pressure inside the cowling
somewhat and reduce the pressure differential across the cylinders and therefore
allow less cooling air flow. Not tested, just surmising here........
Brian and the original poster who experienced cracking: How much clearance
did y'all have between your airbox and inlet?
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: knock it off |
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Quoting Tom Gummo <T.gummo@verizon.net>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>
> How many types of messages do we see posted on the RV-List?
>
> WHICH TYPE DOESN'T BELONG ON THIS LIST?
>
>
> 1. Building Questions
>
>
> 2. Answers to Building Questions
>
>
> 3. First Flights
>
>
> 4. Congratulations to First Flights
>
>
> 5. Flight Questions
>
>
> 6. Answers to Flight Questions
>
>
> 7. Insurance Questions
>
>
> 8. Answers to Insurance Questions
>
>
> 9. Flying Stories
>
>
> 10. Anybody know where Mr. X is?
>
>
> 11. Answer to where Mr. X is
>
>
> 12. Where can I get a radio, GPS, transponder, etc. ?
>
>
> 13. Answer to where to get . is
>
>
> 14. Reports on Attacks on General Aviation
>
>
> 15. Replies to Attacks .
>
>
> 16. RV-List Self Appointed Cops with "Knock IT OFF" messages
>
>
> 17. Anybody going an Air Show and have an empty seat?
>
>
> 18. Replies to request
>
>
> 19. Anyway want to give a newbie a RV ride
>
>
> 20. Replies to request
>
>
> 21. Matt - The Real RV-List Administrator - "Knock it off "messages
>
>
> 22. Matt - It is time to pony up some money so Matt can keep these
> Lists going
>
>
> 23. Matt - List guide line Messages about once a month
>
>
> 24. Matt - Email address messages (don't reply or you will be dropped)
>
>
> 25. Matt - Any damn thing he wants
>
>
> 26. Pure B_LL SH_T, like this, to make the RV-List Cops go crazy - Have
> a nice day
>
>
> please
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
> this drivel
>
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
> Harmon Rocket-II
>
> Explain what do you mean please.
You do not like what you read on the list? that is tough, one way would be
not to look at it. no?
Do not archive
Bert
> http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
>
>
> PS - Answer to question is 16 and of course 26
>
> Sorry Matt, but there are times when I can't control myself.
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Panel Cut-out for 2 1/4" Instrument |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Clinchy, Dave" <clinchd@losrios.edu>
Hi All,
Anyone have the dimensions and/or template for cutting the panel for a generic
2 =BC" instrument? I want to cut my panel now, but don't have the vertical card
compass or turn coordinator yet.
I asked Vans and they said check aircraft spruce, which I already did and I found
a template for 3 1/8 but not 2 =BC.
Thanks
Dave Clinchy
7 wiring
Message 35
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--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
I am waiting to see, all those idiots posting the complaint messages
because some one wrote about corrective vission alternatives..and that is not
related to building rv's...many of these people really need psycological help.
I read some time ago, where some one wanted to start a new Rv-list, is there
another list besides this... I think would be a great idea, so we do not have
to put up with a bunch of inmatured people..
I enjoyed the articles about the different surgery available to correct
our vission problems..
Bert
ev6a
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: grass runway length for RV's? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim & Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
I have an RV-6A with 160 HP and a cruise prop, which floats a lot more that a C/S
prop and I routinely stop in 1000 feet on my runway. Don't carry any extra
speed on final and you will be OK with 1700 feet.
Jim Cone
3-peat offender
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling to airbox clearance- (was: Results of Annual Inspection |
on my -4)
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cowling to airbox clearance- (was: Results of Annual
Inspection on my -4)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 8/30/04 11:20:56 AM Central Daylight Time,
> deanpichon@msn.com writes:
>
> > The seal between the cowl and the airbox is intended to ensure that all
the
> >
> > air entering the air intake in the lower cowl goes directly into the
airbox.
> >
> >
>
> >>>>
>
> I would also imagine that leakage here (being higher pressure in the inlet
> vs. inside the cowling) would also raise the pressure inside the cowling
> somewhat and reduce the pressure differential across the cylinders and
therefore
> allow less cooling air flow. Not tested, just surmising here........
(((((((())))))
[Larry] You are surmising correctly. You want the lower cowling area to be
a low pressure area, sucking or freely accepting air from higher pressure
of the plenum area or upper cowling as it cools the cylinders. Allowing air
to flow into the lower cowling area from the FAB air intake opening would be
counter productive in a couple of ways. Lower manifold pressure for the
carb and less cooling.
>
> Brian and the original poster who experienced cracking: How much
clearance
> did y'all have between your airbox and inlet?
(((((()))))
[Larry] One of the things I noticed on my 7 is the engine mount and the
engine is offset to the left while the cowling is not. This causes a tight
fit along the left side near the FAB at the bottom. Is it possible the FAB
is rubbing or contacting the cowling which puts pressure on the plate
causing the cracks? There should be some sign of this on the inside lower
cowling if it is happening.
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark -6A
((((((((()))))))))))
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty; in
meeting and solving problems, in facing facts, in being a dependable person.
- Richard L. Evans
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:grass runway length for RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I fly my RV-4, 150 HP & wood prop from our 1100' grass strip @ 460 MSL.
I haven't often used more than half of the length going or coming. I go
downhill for takeoff and land uphill, just a slight slope. My neighbor let me cut
an oak tree on his property so I can come straight in, between the trees, to
the runway end.
I put vortex generators on the wings and it really made a difference. My
stall is 6-8 MPH less and very stable at the low speeds.
I only fly solo thus far but will start testing at greater weights soon.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: knock it off |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Bert and all,
do not archive
I was trying to make fun of the RV-List police who want to control the type
of messages we see and post to this list. The original message was from a
person who was leaving because he didn't like some ads that one of the
members put on the list and complained about all the OFF-TOPIC messages. He
only wanted questions about building. He was going to the airport to hangar
fly with his friends - as if these talks would only be on topic. (YGBSM)
go to my web site if you want to see what this means.
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
What about those of us who are flying? Am I just to sit around and wait
for a builder's questions? NO.
The RV-List should be for builders, fliers, and want-a-bies. I see the
RV-List as sitting around in the giant hangar. I am happy to see any
messages which have something to do with aviation and RV's. My point was
that there should be more than just builder's questions on the list.
If you are unable to hit the delete button so that you read only those
messages you want, then feel free to leave. However, the rest of us don't
need a message about your departure and your dislike for the list. (I am
not talking about you but the Mr. Black ???, who started all this.) (This
is the type of message not needed).
Find a list that suits your needs. For example, there is a SoCal RV List,
while there are builder's questions posted there, most of the messages are
about flying: getting together for some formation flying, getting several
planes to go for the hundred dollar hamburger, and going to air shows (to
name a few). There are times when I think I will quit this list and just
monitor the SoCal list but then I remember that I have made several no MANY
friends here: Kevin H.(if I just knew what he has forgotten about
aerodynamics), Vince F.(a really nice guy, I met at the last OSH - great web
site) and Doug R.(The man I have learned to hate. :-) He gets to fly
B-25s, P-51s, F-4Us, etc. Has owned an RV-4 or two and a Harmon Rocket), to
name a few.
Bert, I do know how to use the delete button and read only the messages that
I want. Please post anything that you think is of interest to the rest of
us, etc., etc. So I am sorry that you misunderstood my very poor attempt at
humor.
Hope this helps.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <bertrv6@highstream.net
> Explain what do you mean please.
>
> You do not like what you read on the list? that is tough, one way
would be
> not to look at it. no?
>
> Do not archive
>
> Bert
>
>
Message 40
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
EZ-pilot stuff has been addressed a lot in the recent past, one has but to
do a search.
That said it was able to correctly place me in 46 of the 48 states this
summer, and was never more than 120ft off course. At most times it was
within 60 ft of course. The Navaid would never be this close, and in fact is
ususally .25 miles or more off course.
The EZ-pilot will make use of turn anticipation data if your GPS supports
this as does a GNS430. This allows for one to set up a 160deg turn to final
approach and have the plane come out of the turn within one tick on the
Localizer.
The unit will display much of your GPS data such as waypoints, ETE, GS etc.
Then you can display more screen or other data on the GPS. I often use the
EZ-pilot to display ETE to way point when close then go to the GPS screen
and set up the next "direct to" but leave it on that screen until within 1/4
mile, then engage the next leg. With RVs having a multi leg plan is a waste
of setup time usually. The only time I've found them usful is when making a
precanned approach such as RIPON > FISK > RWY36.
The LCD TC display is much easier to see in the sunlight then the LED of the
Navaid, or the VFD of the earlier EZ-Pilot.
W
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Liability when you sell an RV? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
If I understand it correctly, part of the problem is when the
'acquiring' pilot perishes in the plane you have built.
the 'estate' of the perished pilot can sue you regardless of all the
agreements signed during sale. The 'estate' did not exsist at the time
of sale but came into being when the pilot perished therefor the estate
is not bound by the contract signed by the persihed pilot.
Of course there will be legal folks correcting me here...
Brian Denk wrote:
>
> Oh certainly. There are disclaimer forms, basically a hold harmless release
> that is commonly used. I think EAA has one and I have a copy stached away
> on my harddrive somewhere. It basically tries to completely separate the
> builder from any and all possible liability once the airplane changes hands.
> It's only a piece of paper though, and I'm sure it could be whittled away
> by a savvy shyster to next to nothing if pursued hard enough.
>
> I'll be dealing with this soon enough when I sell my RV8. Yikes.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51 tailcone/empennage rigging time.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Liability when you sell an RV? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
There are two company which offer that coverage, but that coverage was designed
for the liability you incur from owning/maintaining the plane, not building it.
The first person to be sued and try to recover $ under one of those provisions
is going to likely have to fight for it in court and then those companies
will quickly reword their policies to specifically exclude that coverage.
I'd recommend that you have an annual done on the plane as the pre-buy. That way
you have an independant person stating that the plane was airworthy at the
time of sale. You're always going to be 'on the hook' as the assembler of the
plane, but if you didn't stray from the plans there is little liability there.
If you modified a bunch of things (or anything) there is some liability you've
assumed as the engineer/manufacturer of that part.
JT
----- Original Message -----
From: ed
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 9:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: Liability when you sell an RV?
--> RV-List message posted by: "ed " <ed_88@hotmail.com>
So one of the reasons they say that homebuilt planes are so much
cheaper is that the builder is on the hook instead of vans for liability
reasons. So I assume that means if you sell your plane, that anyone who ever
touches it after you can sue you if they are in an accident? Has a
homebuilder ever actually been sued in a situation like this?
Any thoughts on how to protect yourself? I imagine having the buyer sign
something saying he understands it is a homebuilt wouldn't help. If nothing
else he could sell it to a 3rd party who never signed such paperwork.
Given all the insurance related talk recently I was wondering if this
is something that people are thinking about.
--Eddie
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 43
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| Subject: | Vortex generators |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>I put vortex generators on the wings and it really made a difference. My
>stall is 6-8 MPH less and very stable at the low speeds.
Hi Bob,
OK, you've gotta give us more info about this! Got any photos
or other details?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 44
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Dang Gummo,
you did a lot of typing just to give me a good belly laugh.
;{)
Dear List Police, please do not archive
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:grass runway length for RV's |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Hey Bob! You're flying again?? Congratulations and well done!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
I tried Micro-aerodynamics VGs a couple years ago. Stall went down maybe 2
mph, cruise went down 5-6 mph. It gave a quicker roll feel - almost
"twitchy" but you got used to it and kind of liked it after awhile. I took
them off after a few hours cause they hurt cruise more than they helped
stall.
I heard Larry Vettermans VGs are a lot better (I think they are bigger and
mount further forward on the wing) I'll try his if a few people verify that
theory. It would be nice to lower my landing speed at our high altitude
airports. I'm definitely going through too many tires and brake liners.
Andy
Winter Park, CO
>
>
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Liability when you sell an RV? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Smcm75@aol.com
In a message dated 8/30/04 6:12:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jhelms@i1.net
writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
>
> There are two company which offer that coverage, but that coverage was
> designed for the liability you incur from owning/maintaining the plane, not
> building it. The first person to be sued and try to recover $ under one of those
> provisions is going to likely have to fight for it in court and then those
> companies will quickly reword their policies to specifically exclude that
> coverage.
>
> I'd recommend that you have an annual done on the plane as the pre-buy.
> That way you have an independant person stating that the plane was airworthy
at
> the time of sale. You're always going to be 'on the hook' as the assembler
> of the plane, but if you didn't stray from the plans there is little liability
> there. If you modified a bunch of things (or anything) there is some
> liability you've assumed as the engineer/manufacturer of that part.
>
> JT
> ----- Original Message -----
>
As the builder and manufacturer of the aircraft (the kit manufacturer is not
the the legal manufacturer of the finished product) you have the ultimate
product liability for the aircraft after it is sold. An annual is not going to
do
away with this nor can I think of an insurer that will write product liability
coverage you as a builder.
Scott Morrow
N548SM RV-6A
28 years as an international Insurance Broker Now a consultant
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Panel Cut-out for 2 1/4" Instrument |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Clinchy, Dave" <clinchd@losrios.edu>
>
>Hi All,
>
>
>Anyone have the dimensions and/or template for cutting the panel for
>a generic 2 =BC" instrument? I want to cut my panel now, but don't
>have the vertical card compass or turn coordinator yet.
>
>I asked Vans and they said check aircraft spruce, which I already
>did and I found a template for 3 1/8 but not 2 =BC.
>
Dave,
You can make your own template. The following was posted by Jim Oke
many years ago - it worked great for me (I used some 0.040 steel
sheet I picked up at a scrap yard - aluminum will probably wear from
the drilling, and will eventually get too sloppy):
=================
I made my own template out of a scrap of .040 or so 4130 (could have been
2024, of course).
Draw an X with the legs at 90 degs, then two concentric circles at 1 5/16"
and 1 3/4". Drill #40 where all the lines cross - nine holes in total. (The
Aircraft Spruce and Spec catalog has a diagram if you need more layout
info.)
Lay out your panel marking where the center of each instrument face will
lie. Drill #40 at these locations. Cleco the template in place at the center
hole, make sure everything is square, then drill the four holes at the small
or large circle as needed.
Then set you fly cutter as reqd and cut the instrument cut-out using the
center hole as a guide.
Do a few test holes in scrap first to make sure your layout is accurate
before you start on your actual panel. :-)
=================
And the following great tip was posted by Dennis Persyk. Of course I
forgot about it, so I never tried it. I just stumbled across it
again when I searched my treasure trove of saved RV-List gems.
=================
I recommend a fly cutter and 200 rpm or so in the drill press. Use lots of
clamps.
It is very hard to get the fly cutter radius adjusted just right. Once you
have it at the right radius (determined on many scrap trials), make a cut
1/2 way through some 0.062 stock. When you need to cut another hole that
size, use the half-cut template to adjust the radius. This will get you
repeatable hole diameters to within a few thousandths.
=================
Just use some care when laying out the template, and you'll do just fine.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: knock it off |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Thorne" <rv7a@cox.net>
Do not archive
Tom, how anybody could not see your humor is beyond me. I really enjoy your
posts, it keeps the list interesting. Someday when my 7 is done I hope to
get to Apple Valley and meet you.
J. Thorne
RV7A CHD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: knock it off
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>
> Bert and all,
>
> do not archive
>
> I was trying to make fun of the RV-List police who want to control the
type
> of messages we see and post to this list. The original message was from a
> person who was leaving because he didn't like some ads that one of the
> members put on the list and complained about all the OFF-TOPIC messages.
He
> only wanted questions about building. He was going to the airport to
hangar
> fly with his friends - as if these talks would only be on topic. (YGBSM)
> go to my web site if you want to see what this means.
> http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
>
> What about those of us who are flying? Am I just to sit around and wait
> for a builder's questions? NO.
> The RV-List should be for builders, fliers, and want-a-bies. I see the
> RV-List as sitting around in the giant hangar. I am happy to see any
> messages which have something to do with aviation and RV's. My point was
> that there should be more than just builder's questions on the list.
>
> If you are unable to hit the delete button so that you read only those
> messages you want, then feel free to leave. However, the rest of us don't
> need a message about your departure and your dislike for the list. (I am
> not talking about you but the Mr. Black ???, who started all this.) (This
> is the type of message not needed).
>
> Find a list that suits your needs. For example, there is a SoCal RV List,
> while there are builder's questions posted there, most of the messages are
> about flying: getting together for some formation flying, getting several
> planes to go for the hundred dollar hamburger, and going to air shows (to
> name a few). There are times when I think I will quit this list and just
> monitor the SoCal list but then I remember that I have made several no
MANY
> friends here: Kevin H.(if I just knew what he has forgotten about
> aerodynamics), Vince F.(a really nice guy, I met at the last OSH - great
web
> site) and Doug R.(The man I have learned to hate. :-) He gets to fly
> B-25s, P-51s, F-4Us, etc. Has owned an RV-4 or two and a Harmon Rocket),
to
> name a few.
>
> Bert, I do know how to use the delete button and read only the messages
that
> I want. Please post anything that you think is of interest to the rest of
> us, etc., etc. So I am sorry that you misunderstood my very poor attempt
at
> humor.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
> Harmon Rocket-II
>
> do not archive
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <bertrv6@highstream.net
> > Explain what do you mean please.
> >
> > You do not like what you read on the list? that is tough, one way
> would be
> > not to look at it. no?
> >
> > Do not archive
> >
> > Bert
> >
> >
>
>
Message 50
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| Subject: | 5 point harness on RV6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "GMC" <gmcnutt@uniserve.com>
Hi Shirley
A couple picture of my 6A installation at Vans Western Canada Wing
http://www.vansairforce.org/airplanes/C-GJTY/more.cgi?more
also see crotch strap hazard at bottom of that page.
George McNutt
Langley BC
------------------------------------------------------
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh@argo.net.au>
Has any one got any pictures or clear instructions on how to fit the Van's
5th (crotch)harness strap to an RV6? I'm told it can be done with a few
mods - any advice would be most welcome before I start cutting things!
Thanks
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Shirley Harding
RV6QB ...Prop on!!!
Perth, Western Australia
Message 51
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Saturday, I spent most of the morning flying Young Eagles. I lost count, but it
was 8 or 10 of 'em...
Anyway, I noticed two odd things about my oil temperature gauge (and with 275 hours
on the plane, I'm sure I'd have noticed before now.)
1) With the strobes on (hazy day) the oil temperature gauge immediately read 10-15
degrees higher than with the strobes off. Turning the strobes off returned
the temp gauge to where it was before...
2) Whether the strobes were on or off, the needle on the oil temp gauge had a little
wiggle in it. Kind of like the shakes I get when I've had a little too
much Diet Coke.
The gauge and sender are the Rochester brand, as sold by Aircraft Spruce.
My immediate thoughts are to check the connections on the temperature sender and
gauge.
Any suggestions beyond that?
KB
Message 52
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wavering Gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
I'm going to guess that you have an electric oil temp gauge. The change
in reading is caused by the increased current draw of the strobes making
the voltage drop. The wavering needle is a sign of poor voltage
regulation. This can be caused by the regulator itself or by lousy
rectification in the alternator. Blown diodes in the rectifier also
show up as a whine in the radio .... and the frequency changes with
engine RPM. The ripple on the oputput of an alternator with blown
diodes will cause an electronic regulator more problems than the old
relay style regulators. Of course all this may be way off the mark but
it's my best guess with the little info you gave.
Congrats on the YE flights.
Linn
do not archive
Kyle Boatright wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>
>Saturday, I spent most of the morning flying Young Eagles. I lost count, but
it was 8 or 10 of 'em...
>
>Anyway, I noticed two odd things about my oil temperature gauge (and with 275
hours on the plane, I'm sure I'd have noticed before now.)
>
>1) With the strobes on (hazy day) the oil temperature gauge immediately read 10-15
degrees higher than with the strobes off. Turning the strobes off returned
the temp gauge to where it was before...
>
>2) Whether the strobes were on or off, the needle on the oil temp gauge had a
little wiggle in it. Kind of like the shakes I get when I've had a little too
much Diet Coke.
>
>The gauge and sender are the Rochester brand, as sold by Aircraft Spruce.
>
>My immediate thoughts are to check the connections on the temperature sender and
gauge.
>
>Any suggestions beyond that?
>
>KB
>
>
>
>
Message 53
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| Subject: | More kit frustration!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
You know I love the RV airplanes and I've been privileged to know Dick VanG
for many years (a fine gentleman whom I greatly admire). I even lived next
door to him and got my very own personal consultation during the building of
my fuselage kit (way cool). But..sometimes I think I've gotten ALL the
out-of-tolerance parts that have ever been produced for the RV-6A and the
frustration of spending unbelievable amounts of time trying to get things to
fit just irritates the hell out of me.
Latest BS has to do with mounting the nose wheel tire..I split the rims and
installed the tube in the tire and tried to put the rim halves together but
NO WAY. The rims go into the tire maybe a half inch before things get so
tight that I can't push them in any further, @#$%&... My friend with a Q200
has the same size tires and wheels on his airplane and says that the rim
should just about slide right in with very little hassle. He says he has to
use the same size Chin Shen Taiwanese tires that we do and the only time he
has a problem is with getting them OFF the rims is when he's trying to
replace a tire (the bead sometimes sticks to the rim). I'm probably
beginning to sound like a whiner but does anyone have any words of wisdom on
yet another five minute job that is taking a few hours? Is this a common
problem or am I just lucky enough to have yet another out-of-tolerance piece
of crap that I paid good money for? BTW my buddy with the Q200 says he
almost invariably has to put his Chin Shen tires on a lathe to true them
before using (out of round), is this another problem that's been experienced
in the RV world? Does anyone else make this size tire? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
It'll get done some day come hell or high water so help me god!
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: More kit frustration!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
>
> You know I love the RV airplanes and I've been privileged to know Dick VanG
> for many years (a fine gentleman whom I greatly admire). I even lived next
> door to him and got my very own personal consultation during the building of
> my fuselage kit (way cool). But..sometimes I think I've gotten ALL the
> out-of-tolerance parts that have ever been produced for the RV-6A and the
> frustration of spending unbelievable amounts of time trying to get things to
> fit just irritates the hell out of me.
Dean, I am sure I speak for RV builders worldwide who express our
appreciation to you for getting all the out of tolerance parts out of
circulation so the rest of us won't have to deal with them...... ;-)
>
>
> Latest BS has to do with mounting the nose wheel tire..I split the rims and
> installed the tube in the tire and tried to put the rim halves together but
> NO WAY. The rims go into the tire maybe a half inch before things get so
> tight that I can't push them in any further, @#$%&... My friend with a Q200
> has the same size tires and wheels on his airplane and says that the rim
> should just about slide right in with very little hassle. He says he has to
> use the same size Chin Shen Taiwanese tires that we do and the only time he
> has a problem is with getting them OFF the rims is when he's trying to
> replace a tire (the bead sometimes sticks to the rim). I'm probably
> beginning to sound like a whiner but does anyone have any words of wisdom on
> yet another five minute job that is taking a few hours? Is this a common
> problem or am I just lucky enough to have yet another out-of-tolerance piece
> of crap that I paid good money for? BTW my buddy with the Q200 says he
> almost invariably has to put his Chin Shen tires on a lathe to true them
> before using (out of round), is this another problem that's been experienced
> in the RV world? Does anyone else make this size tire? Thanks.
Just go ahead of bolt the two rim halves together making sure you
haven't pinched the tube. Once the bolts are torqued, add 40-60 lbs of
air to the tire and the bead will pop into place. Then reduce the air
pressure to working pressure.
Don't really see where anything could be out of tolerance. I believe the
wheels are made by Cleveland, and there probably isn't much variation in
the tires. Getting a grip on tire changing is mostly a matter of
figuring out some technique; if you are grunting, you ain't doing it
right. ;-)
Sam Buchanan (lots and lots of practice flippin' tires on the RV-6)
Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: More kit frustration!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
>
>You know I love the RV airplanes and I've been privileged to know Dick VanG
>for many years (a fine gentleman whom I greatly admire). I even lived next
>door to him and got my very own personal consultation during the building of
>my fuselage kit (way cool). But..sometimes I think I've gotten ALL the
>out-of-tolerance parts that have ever been produced for the RV-6A and the
>frustration of spending unbelievable amounts of time trying to get things to
>fit just irritates the hell out of me.
>
>
>Latest BS has to do with mounting the nose wheel tire..I split the rims and
>installed the tube in the tire and tried to put the rim halves together but
>NO WAY. The rims go into the tire maybe a half inch before things get so
>tight that I can't push them in any further, @#$%&...
>
Come on Dean, tires do not just slide on the rim. You have to do a
little bit of work, Also use a little bit of soapy water
if they are to tight. BTW it is not Van's fault if the tires or rims are
out of tolerence. Did you try both wheels? Did you let all
of the air out of the tubes? It takes a little effort to get the wheel
halves close enough together to get the nuts started on the
bolts. The tires well not go all of the way onto the rim untill you
start putting air into the tire.
Jerry
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Homecoming-- Where to eat 1.70 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPSSimilar |
addresses in recipient list
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club wrote:
>I want to meet all you old goats out there,
>
>including you Jerry,(baa-aa-aaa) You are a credit to this list and I want you
>to
>
>know it..
>
>Phil, in Illinois
>
>Do not archive
>
>
Hmmm... Phil
There might be some here that don't agree with you but thanks :-)
Jerry
do not archive
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: >Re: Vortex generators |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
OK Guys;
Here's more info.
I got my vortex generators from Larry Vetterman 605-745-5932 and
installed them with the templates and cement furnished. I painted them to match
the
areas of paint in which they were installed. They are aluminum and curved to
match the wing contour. Cost at that time was $400.00. Instructions were
very good and installation didn't take very long.
I'll post a picture in the matronics photo section.
Hope this helps
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: More kit frustration!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Sam has some good advice. He left out a few items though. Use a lot of
talc on the inside of the tire, on the tube, and on the rim. Rub it in
good. Put the tube in the tire. Remove the valve stem. Use a blow gun
to force some air into the tube and then let it excape. Do this a few
times. Assemble the rims on the tire. You may have to squeeze the rims
together with a large clamp to get the nuts started on the bolts.
Carefully tighten all 3 bolts. Put the valve stem back in and inflate
like Sam advised.
Don't skip the talc. It'll keep the tube from folding over and creasing
..... which will be a leak if the tire loses pressure down the road. It
also allows the tire/tube to shift a little during use. If you want to
replace your tubes each time you replace the tire .... go ahead.
Properly assembled with the talc you can get 6 or 7 tires for each
tube. At least I do. I've never had a problem (yet) with old tubes.
The tubes in my Pitts are original. They're now 23 years old, and I may
replace the tubes next time I change the tires.
Linn
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
>>
>>You know I love the RV airplanes and I've been privileged to know Dick VanG
>>for many years (a fine gentleman whom I greatly admire). I even lived next
>>door to him and got my very own personal consultation during the building of
>>my fuselage kit (way cool). But..sometimes I think I've gotten ALL the
>>out-of-tolerance parts that have ever been produced for the RV-6A and the
>>frustration of spending unbelievable amounts of time trying to get things to
>>fit just irritates the hell out of me.
>>
>>
>
>Dean, I am sure I speak for RV builders worldwide who express our
>appreciation to you for getting all the out of tolerance parts out of
>circulation so the rest of us won't have to deal with them...... ;-)
>
>
>
>>Latest BS has to do with mounting the nose wheel tire..I split the rims and
>>installed the tube in the tire and tried to put the rim halves together but
>>NO WAY. The rims go into the tire maybe a half inch before things get so
>>tight that I can't push them in any further, @#$%&... My friend with a Q200
>>has the same size tires and wheels on his airplane and says that the rim
>>should just about slide right in with very little hassle. He says he has to
>>use the same size Chin Shen Taiwanese tires that we do and the only time he
>>has a problem is with getting them OFF the rims is when he's trying to
>>replace a tire (the bead sometimes sticks to the rim). I'm probably
>>beginning to sound like a whiner but does anyone have any words of wisdom on
>>yet another five minute job that is taking a few hours? Is this a common
>>problem or am I just lucky enough to have yet another out-of-tolerance piece
>>of crap that I paid good money for? BTW my buddy with the Q200 says he
>>almost invariably has to put his Chin Shen tires on a lathe to true them
>>before using (out of round), is this another problem that's been experienced
>>in the RV world? Does anyone else make this size tire? Thanks.
>>
>>
>
>
>Just go ahead of bolt the two rim halves together making sure you
>haven't pinched the tube. Once the bolts are torqued, add 40-60 lbs of
>air to the tire and the bead will pop into place. Then reduce the air
>pressure to working pressure.
>
>Don't really see where anything could be out of tolerance. I believe the
>wheels are made by Cleveland, and there probably isn't much variation in
>the tires. Getting a grip on tire changing is mostly a matter of
>figuring out some technique; if you are grunting, you ain't doing it
>right. ;-)
>
>Sam Buchanan (lots and lots of practice flippin' tires on the RV-6)
>
>
>
>
Message 59
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| Subject: | >RE:Vortex generators |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Vortex Generators on RV-4
Bob Olds , RV-4
oldsfolks@aol.com
Vortex Generators on Rv-4
This photo shows the positioning as done per instructions .
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