Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:04 AM - Re: Liability when you sell an RV? (ed)
2. 02:01 AM - Re: More kit frustration!! (Jim Jewell)
3. 02:24 AM - Re: First Flight (Doug Gray)
4. 02:50 AM - Re: Liability when you sell an RV? (linn walters)
5. 02:55 AM - Re: More kit frustration!! (linn walters)
6. 03:05 AM - Re: Wavering Gauge (Doug Gray)
7. 04:18 AM - Re: Liability when you sell an RV? (Jim Sears)
8. 04:34 AM - Re: Wavering Gauge (Kyle Boatright)
9. 05:04 AM - Re: Wavering Gauge (Trampas)
10. 05:22 AM - Re: Wavering Gauge (linn walters)
11. 05:41 AM - Re: Wavering Gauge (linn walters)
12. 05:48 AM - Electrical wire labeling (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
13. 05:59 AM - Re: More kit frustration!! (Alex Peterson)
14. 06:20 AM - Re: Wavering Gauge (cgalley)
15. 06:41 AM - Re: Electrical wire labeling (Richard Bibb)
16. 06:50 AM - Re: Electrical wire labeling (linn walters)
17. 06:52 AM - Re: More kit frustration!! (N67BT@aol.com)
18. 06:53 AM - Blue Mountain EFIS Magnetometer... (Bill VonDane)
19. 07:02 AM - tire stuff (linn walters)
20. 07:08 AM - A/C construction insurance (Christopher Stone)
21. 07:15 AM - Re: Wavering Gauge (linn walters)
22. 07:16 AM - Re: More kit frustration!! (SportAV8R@aol.com)
23. 07:20 AM - Re: A/C construction insurance (Kyle Boatright)
24. 07:47 AM - Re: More kit frustration!! (Sam Buchanan)
25. 08:01 AM - Re: Wavering Gauge (SportAV8R@aol.com)
26. 08:07 AM - Re: Electrical wire labeling (Bruce Gray)
27. 08:14 AM - Re: A/C construction insurance (Pat Hatch)
28. 08:22 AM - Re: Electrical wire labeling (Peter Laurence)
29. 08:24 AM - Re: tire stuff (Pat Hatch)
30. 08:27 AM - Re: A/C construction insurance (Dan Checkoway)
31. 08:55 AM - Re: tire stuff (Rhett Westerman)
32. 09:10 AM - Re: Blue Mountain EFIS Magnetometer... (Stein Bruch)
33. 09:12 AM - Re: tire stuff (Chris Good)
34. 09:12 AM - Re: Electrical wire labeling (Stein Bruch)
35. 09:24 AM - Vortex Generators (John)
36. 09:43 AM - Re: Blue Mountain EFIS Magnetometer... (Bill VonDane)
37. 09:44 AM - Re: More kit frustration!! (Eric Parlow)
38. 09:52 AM - Cowl Flaps? (Eric Parlow)
39. 10:16 AM - Re: A/C construction insurance (Russell Nichols)
40. 10:22 AM - Re: More kit frustration!! (Mike Robertson)
41. 10:35 AM - Re: Vortex Generators (David Carter)
42. 10:47 AM - Re: Cowl Flaps? (Scott Bilinski)
43. 11:10 AM - Re: Cowl Flaps? (RV8ter@aol.com)
44. 11:22 AM - Re: Electrical wire labeling (Scott Vanartsdalen)
45. 11:38 AM - Re: [RV-8] Cowl Flaps? (Eric Parlow)
46. 11:42 AM - Re: Cowl Flaps? (Scott Bilinski)
47. 11:53 AM - Re: Cowl Flaps? (Dan Checkoway)
48. 12:11 PM - Vortex Generators (Wheeler North)
49. 12:34 PM - Re: Cowl Flaps? (Finn Lassen)
50. 01:54 PM - Fw: Vortex Generators (John)
51. 01:57 PM - Re: Cowl Flaps? (Laird Owens)
52. 02:04 PM - Sept 11, 2004 -RV Forum, 10th Annual Oswego County NY, KFZY (RV6160hp@aol.com)
53. 02:11 PM - I've finally got my XCOM 760 Radio ()
54. 02:42 PM - Pat on the back for air drill overhaul/repair (David Carter)
55. 02:44 PM - Re: Blue Mountain EFIS Magnetometer... (Terry Watson)
56. 02:48 PM - Re: Electrical wire labeling (Ken Beene)
57. 04:26 PM - Re: Blue Mountain EFIS Magnetometer... (Bill VonDane)
58. 06:05 PM - Re: Electrical wire labeling (Jim Anglin)
59. 06:05 PM - Re: Electrical wire labeling (Stein Bruch)
60. 06:23 PM - Re: Electrical wire labeling (Scott Vanartsdalen)
61. 06:48 PM - Van's new RV-10 (Jerry Springer)
62. 06:59 PM - Re: grass runway length for RV's? (Nels Hanson)
63. 07:20 PM - Fw: Gears for my Slick Magnetos (cgalley)
64. 07:41 PM - Re: Electrical wire labeling (N67BT@aol.com)
65. 07:45 PM - Re: Electrical wire labeling (N67BT@aol.com)
66. 08:25 PM - > Re: vortex generators (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
67. 08:37 PM - Cadillac MI RV Flyin (Doug Bell)
68. 09:24 PM - First Flight (Jim & Bev Cone)
69. 09:54 PM - Re: Electrical wire labeling (Jim Anglin)
70. 09:55 PM - RV nose tire mounting (Dean Psiropoulos)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Liability when you sell an RV? |
From: "ed \240" <ed_88@hotmai...
--> RV-List message posted by: "ed " <ed_88@hotmail.com>
So is there any way to "unbuild" ones plane, so the new owner is
considered the builder? I would assume not, since you would have to undo
almost everything, and then they would just buy from vans instead of you.
I guess the real answer is just to keep flying and never sell it :)
>As the builder and manufacturer of the aircraft (the kit manufacturer is
>not
>the the legal manufacturer of the finished product) you have the ultimate
>product liability for the aircraft after it is sold. An annual is not going
>to do
>away with this nor can I think of an insurer that will write product
>liability
>coverage you as a builder.
>
>Scott Morrow
>N548SM RV-6A
>28 years as an international Insurance Broker Now a consultant
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: More kit frustration!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Dean,
Take the valve stem out of the tubes to be sure you have no air pressure in
the tube. When at last you have the rim halves bolted together and the soapy
water on the tire beads, inflate the tire a few times letting the pressure
back to zero again. Then install the valve and bring the tire up to the
maximum pressure suggested on the tire sidewall. Going too much above the
suggested pressure to seat the tire beads might be dangerous. There is a
raised little bead of rubber around the tire beads that will show evenly
just outside of the rim edge when the beads are properly seated. It does
sometimes take a higher than suggested pressure to seat the beads.
Doing as suggested above should allow the tube to streach and settle into
position inside the tire and rim and reduce the chances of getting the stem
off center in the rim and the folds in the tube that can cause premature
tube failures.
Keep at it,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: More kit frustration!!
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos"
>><deanpsir@easystreet.com>
>>
>>You know I love the RV airplanes and I've been privileged to know Dick
>>VanG
>>for many years (a fine gentleman whom I greatly admire). I even lived
>>next
>>door to him and got my very own personal consultation during the building
>>of
>>my fuselage kit (way cool). But..sometimes I think I've gotten ALL the
>>out-of-tolerance parts that have ever been produced for the RV-6A and the
>>frustration of spending unbelievable amounts of time trying to get things
>>to
>>fit just irritates the hell out of me.
>>
>>
>>Latest BS has to do with mounting the nose wheel tire..I split the rims
>>and
>>installed the tube in the tire and tried to put the rim halves together
>>but
>>NO WAY. The rims go into the tire maybe a half inch before things get so
>>tight that I can't push them in any further, @#$%&...
>>
> Come on Dean, tires do not just slide on the rim. You have to do a
> little bit of work, Also use a little bit of soapy water
> if they are to tight. BTW it is not Van's fault if the tires or rims are
> out of tolerence. Did you try both wheels? Did you let all
> of the air out of the tubes? It takes a little effort to get the wheel
> halves close enough together to get the nuts started on the
> bolts. The tires well not go all of the way onto the rim untill you
> start putting air into the tire.
>
> Jerry
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Both wings are heavy, and you have to hold right rudder going up and
left rudder coming down .....
.........that sounds like a perfect flight to me.
Congratulations.
Do not archive
Doug Gray
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Liability when you sell an RV? |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
ed wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "ed " <ed_88@hotmail.com>
>
>
> So is there any way to "unbuild" ones plane, so the new owner is
>considered the builder? I would assume not, since you would have to undo
>almost everything, and then they would just buy from vans instead of you.
>
> I guess the real answer is just to keep flying and never sell it :)
>
Actually, there is a way. Surrender the airworthiness Certificate and
sell it as junk. I've thought about this but it hasn't been an issue
for me yet. I never get rid of anything but my first wife. :-P
Linn
>
>
>
>
>>As the builder and manufacturer of the aircraft (the kit manufacturer is
>>not
>>the the legal manufacturer of the finished product) you have the ultimate
>>product liability for the aircraft after it is sold. An annual is not going
>>to do
>>away with this nor can I think of an insurer that will write product
>>liability
>>coverage you as a builder.
>>
>>Scott Morrow
>>N548SM RV-6A
>>28 years as an international Insurance Broker Now a consultant
>>
>>
>
>Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: More kit frustration!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Jim Jewell wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
>Hi Dean,
>
>Take the valve stem out of the tubes to be sure you have no air pressure in
>the tube. When at last you have the rim halves bolted together and the soapy
>water on the tire beads,
>
Actually Jim, this will raise the chance that you pinch a tube. It's
hard to make sure that all of the tube is not between the wheel halves
if it's flat. By using the talc to make tube and tire 'slippery',
instead of soapy water, and make it round in the tire so it fits, you
also lessen the chance of a fold. Soapy water is great on a tubeless
tire, but on tubes the talc does much better.
Linn
> inflate the tire a few times letting the pressure
>back to zero again. Then install the valve and bring the tire up to the
>maximum pressure suggested on the tire sidewall. Going too much above the
>suggested pressure to seat the tire beads might be dangerous. There is a
>raised little bead of rubber around the tire beads that will show evenly
>just outside of the rim edge when the beads are properly seated. It does
>sometimes take a higher than suggested pressure to seat the beads.
>Doing as suggested above should allow the tube to streach and settle into
>position inside the tire and rim and reduce the chances of getting the stem
>off center in the rim and the folds in the tube that can cause premature
>tube failures.
>
>Keep at it,
>
>Jim in Kelowna
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: More kit frustration!!
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>>
>>Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos"
>>><deanpsir@easystreet.com>
>>>
>>>You know I love the RV airplanes and I've been privileged to know Dick
>>>VanG
>>>for many years (a fine gentleman whom I greatly admire). I even lived
>>>next
>>>door to him and got my very own personal consultation during the building
>>>of
>>>my fuselage kit (way cool). But..sometimes I think I've gotten ALL the
>>>out-of-tolerance parts that have ever been produced for the RV-6A and the
>>>frustration of spending unbelievable amounts of time trying to get things
>>>to
>>>fit just irritates the hell out of me.
>>>
>>>
>>>Latest BS has to do with mounting the nose wheel tire..I split the rims
>>>and
>>>installed the tube in the tire and tried to put the rim halves together
>>>but
>>>NO WAY. The rims go into the tire maybe a half inch before things get so
>>>tight that I can't push them in any further, @#$%&...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>Come on Dean, tires do not just slide on the rim. You have to do a
>>little bit of work, Also use a little bit of soapy water
>>if they are to tight. BTW it is not Van's fault if the tires or rims are
>>out of tolerence. Did you try both wheels? Did you let all
>>of the air out of the tubes? It takes a little effort to get the wheel
>>halves close enough together to get the nuts started on the
>>bolts. The tires well not go all of the way onto the rim untill you
>>start putting air into the tire.
>>
>>Jerry
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Wavering Gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
I'd also check the ground returns on both the Oil temp gauge, transducer
AND on the strobe system. Higher ground impedance can cause the 0volt
reference to move around as the current draw changes due to various
other loads.
AC43-13 says resistance should be less than 0.005ohms between
generator/alternator or battery ground to ground of any electrical device.
Also, check the supply voltage at the Roch. gauge terminals when the
strobes are on versus off.
--
Doug Gray
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Liability when you sell an RV? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> So is there any way to "unbuild" ones plane, so the new owner is
> considered the builder? I would assume not, since you would have to undo
> almost everything, and then they would just buy from vans instead of you.
>
I have a friend who builds, buys, and sells RVs regularly. Even though he
knows there is some risk, and has a lot more to lose than I do, he continues
doing it, anyway. I have another friend who built an airplane, took it
almost to the end of the test period, had a little problem with the nose
gear that he fixed later, and hasn't flown it since. It sits in a hangar
and hasn't been flown for years. He refuses to sell it because of
liability; so, he pays hangar rent. I'd sell it or take it apart and take
it home, if I didn't want to fly it. Anyway, I'll sell one of my RVs when I
get done with the new one. I can't afford to keep two. The risk of selling
one is far less than my going bankrupt by owning two of them. :-)
If someone wants to sue us, we're going to be sued, no matter what we do to
prevent it. If we have to worry that much about the risk, we probably
shouldn't be building airplanes, in the first place. That issue should have
been resolved in one's mind before the project ever started. Your airplane
is required to have a label on it that shows that it's not professionally
built. With that, it's buyer beware. The buyer knows that, up front. I'm
sure the courts will see it that way; and, I've heard that's what usually
happens, anyway. Granted, I can't afford an attorney to test the waters;
but, I'm hoping it won't happen, to start with. If it does, someone may
have been hurt or killed in what I built. That would ride more heavilly on
my mind than any legal problems that may arise from it.
Jim Sears in KY
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Wavering Gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Linn (and/or others),
How do I check the voltage regulator and alternator for the problems you
described?
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wavering Gauge
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> I'm going to guess that you have an electric oil temp gauge. The change
> in reading is caused by the increased current draw of the strobes making
> the voltage drop. The wavering needle is a sign of poor voltage
> regulation. This can be caused by the regulator itself or by lousy
> rectification in the alternator. Blown diodes in the rectifier also
> show up as a whine in the radio .... and the frequency changes with
> engine RPM. The ripple on the oputput of an alternator with blown
> diodes will cause an electronic regulator more problems than the old
> relay style regulators. Of course all this may be way off the mark but
> it's my best guess with the little info you gave.
>
> Congrats on the YE flights.
>
> Linn
> do not archive
> Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
> >
> >Saturday, I spent most of the morning flying Young Eagles. I lost count,
but it was 8 or 10 of 'em...
> >
> >Anyway, I noticed two odd things about my oil temperature gauge (and with
275 hours on the plane, I'm sure I'd have noticed before now.)
> >
> >1) With the strobes on (hazy day) the oil temperature gauge immediately
read 10-15 degrees higher than with the strobes off. Turning the strobes off
returned the temp gauge to where it was before...
> >
> >2) Whether the strobes were on or off, the needle on the oil temp gauge
had a little wiggle in it. Kind of like the shakes I get when I've had a
little too much Diet Coke.
> >
> >The gauge and sender are the Rochester brand, as sold by Aircraft Spruce.
> >
> >My immediate thoughts are to check the connections on the temperature
sender and gauge.
> >
> >Any suggestions beyond that?
> >
> >KB
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
Most oil temperature gauges are grounded to the engine block. Therefore
check your ground cables as well.
Regards,
Trampas
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wavering Gauge
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Linn (and/or others),
How do I check the voltage regulator and alternator for the problems you
described?
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wavering Gauge
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> I'm going to guess that you have an electric oil temp gauge. The change
> in reading is caused by the increased current draw of the strobes making
> the voltage drop. The wavering needle is a sign of poor voltage
> regulation. This can be caused by the regulator itself or by lousy
> rectification in the alternator. Blown diodes in the rectifier also
> show up as a whine in the radio .... and the frequency changes with
> engine RPM. The ripple on the oputput of an alternator with blown
> diodes will cause an electronic regulator more problems than the old
> relay style regulators. Of course all this may be way off the mark but
> it's my best guess with the little info you gave.
>
> Congrats on the YE flights.
>
> Linn
> do not archive
> Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
> >
> >Saturday, I spent most of the morning flying Young Eagles. I lost count,
but it was 8 or 10 of 'em...
> >
> >Anyway, I noticed two odd things about my oil temperature gauge (and with
275 hours on the plane, I'm sure I'd have noticed before now.)
> >
> >1) With the strobes on (hazy day) the oil temperature gauge immediately
read 10-15 degrees higher than with the strobes off. Turning the strobes off
returned the temp gauge to where it was before...
> >
> >2) Whether the strobes were on or off, the needle on the oil temp gauge
had a little wiggle in it. Kind of like the shakes I get when I've had a
little too much Diet Coke.
> >
> >The gauge and sender are the Rochester brand, as sold by Aircraft Spruce.
> >
> >My immediate thoughts are to check the connections on the temperature
sender and gauge.
> >
> >Any suggestions beyond that?
> >
> >KB
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wavering Gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Kyle Boatright wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>
>Linn (and/or others),
>
>How do I check the voltage regulator and alternator for the problems you
>described?
>
>KB
>
>
Well, since you asked the question, I take it you're electrically
challenged. This will make it rougher but not impossible. Your best
source of information would be http://www.aeroelectric.com/. Bob
Nuckolls can also answer questions. There is also an aeroelectric list.
You should check operation of the oil temp gauge/strobes without the
engine running. If things aren't steady then you need to look for loose
connections at power and ground. With the battery fully charged you
shouldn't see any wavering of the oil pressure gauge with the strobes
on. However, very slight wavering in time with the strobes may be
present if you have a weak battery.
Next, you need a meter. Get the analog type with a needle. The
digitals do not convert fast enough to give you good data.
Use clip leads to attach the red lead to the measuring point and black
to ground. Measure the voltage on the buss and battery ..... somewhere
near 12 V without engine running. You may see some needle movement in
time with the strobes on as above.
Now you need to check the voltage regulator output to the 'field' of the
alternator. It's the small wire going to the alternator. It should
read the same as the battery voltage. Tug on this wire at the
alternator smartly. Due to engine vibration, the wire could be broken
inside the insulation and the insulation is the only thing keeping the
wire there.
So far so good? Start 'er up. Measure the voltage on the buss .....
somewhere around 13.7 volts is good. Look closely at the meter needle.
At idle (the slowest the engine will go) you may see some 'shiver' of
the needle. This is a sign that you may have bad diodes in the
alternator. The shiver is caused by ripple on the output from the
alternator. A cigarette lighter socket is a good place to measure, but
be careful. The center pin is positive and the outer case is ground.
You do not want to short those two together ..... a fuse or ckt breaker
will blow ..... or should if wired correctly.
Turn on the radios and landing lights (leave the strobes off for now) to
add some load. Pitot heat is good too, if you have it. The 13.7 (or
whatever you measured before) should be steady.
Now things get sticky ...... and troubleshooting becomes harder ....
trying to separate a failure between alternator and regulator is tough.
You can pull the alternator and have it tested ..... a lot of car parts
stores have testers nowadays .... to see if that's the culprit.
Replacing the regulator is more expensive, but if you can swap it out
with a known good regulator (try and borrow one if you can) I'd do
that. The problem at this level is that the chargind system is a closed
loop .... the alternator reacts to changes of voltage at the 'field'
wire and the regulator reacts to changes in output of the regulator. It
really is a vicious cycle!!! It's really rock simple, but hard to
troubleshoot.
Bottom line .... check all the connections at regulator and alternator
..... and check the operation of the 'alternator field switch' (if you
have one) since a small resistance of the switch contacts will have a
big effect on the system operation.
This is all I can think of at the moment. Oh yeah, you can ask around
for some help from your EAA chapter or other local builders that are
knowledgeable.
Hope all this is of some help!!!
Linn
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Wavering Gauge
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>>
>>I'm going to guess that you have an electric oil temp gauge. The change
>>in reading is caused by the increased current draw of the strobes making
>>the voltage drop. The wavering needle is a sign of poor voltage
>>regulation. This can be caused by the regulator itself or by lousy
>>rectification in the alternator. Blown diodes in the rectifier also
>>show up as a whine in the radio .... and the frequency changes with
>>engine RPM. The ripple on the oputput of an alternator with blown
>>diodes will cause an electronic regulator more problems than the old
>>relay style regulators. Of course all this may be way off the mark but
>>it's my best guess with the little info you gave.
>>
>>Congrats on the YE flights.
>>
>>Linn
>>do not archive
>>Kyle Boatright wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>>>
>>>Saturday, I spent most of the morning flying Young Eagles. I lost count,
>>>
>>>
>but it was 8 or 10 of 'em...
>
>
>>>Anyway, I noticed two odd things about my oil temperature gauge (and with
>>>
>>>
>275 hours on the plane, I'm sure I'd have noticed before now.)
>
>
>>>1) With the strobes on (hazy day) the oil temperature gauge immediately
>>>
>>>
>read 10-15 degrees higher than with the strobes off. Turning the strobes off
>returned the temp gauge to where it was before...
>
>
>>>2) Whether the strobes were on or off, the needle on the oil temp gauge
>>>
>>>
>had a little wiggle in it. Kind of like the shakes I get when I've had a
>little too much Diet Coke.
>
>
>>>The gauge and sender are the Rochester brand, as sold by Aircraft Spruce.
>>>
>>>My immediate thoughts are to check the connections on the temperature
>>>
>>>
>sender and gauge.
>
>
>>>Any suggestions beyond that?
>>>
>>>KB
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Wavering Gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Sorry for the multiple posts, but I forgot ... Radio Shack is a great
place to find meters and clip leads rather inexpensively.
Linn
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Electrical wire labeling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
When I built my 6 I used a regular ole thermal label printer to make
label for wiring. Worked ok but what I really wanted to do was shrink
wrap the label under a clear heat shrink. One little problem, as soon as
you applied any heat to the heat shring, the label would go black. DUH!
So I have scoured the web looking for a non-thermal label maker. No Joy.
I could write on a colored heatshrink and shrink it. That does work. But
what really looks neat and lasts a long time is heat shrink around a
label.
Do you know of a non-thermal label printer that kicks out little strips?
Michael Stewart
Ahhh, wiring.
Do not archive. Remove for good answers
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | More kit frustration!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> Latest BS has to do with mounting the nose wheel tire..I
> split the rims and installed the tube in the tire and tried
> to put the rim halves together but NO WAY. The rims go into
> the tire maybe a half inch before things get so tight that I
> can't push them in any further, @#$%&...
If you think it is fun putting them on, wait until you have to get one
of those s.o.b.'s back off. I almost took a grinder to the tire. It is
unbelievable how "one" they become with the rims. Doesn't matter if you
use talc. Next time I'm going to try some sort of teflon dust. So,
enjoy the easy part.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 518 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Wavering Gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I would first clean the battery terminals as the battery smoothes out the
system. Poor connections here create problems elsewhere.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wavering Gauge
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
> >
> >Linn (and/or others),
> >
> >How do I check the voltage regulator and alternator for the problems you
> >described?
> >
> >KB
> >
> >
> Well, since you asked the question, I take it you're electrically
> challenged. This will make it rougher but not impossible. Your best
> source of information would be http://www.aeroelectric.com/. Bob
> Nuckolls can also answer questions. There is also an aeroelectric list.
>
> You should check operation of the oil temp gauge/strobes without the
> engine running. If things aren't steady then you need to look for loose
> connections at power and ground. With the battery fully charged you
> shouldn't see any wavering of the oil pressure gauge with the strobes
> on. However, very slight wavering in time with the strobes may be
> present if you have a weak battery.
>
> Next, you need a meter. Get the analog type with a needle. The
> digitals do not convert fast enough to give you good data.
> Use clip leads to attach the red lead to the measuring point and black
> to ground. Measure the voltage on the buss and battery ..... somewhere
> near 12 V without engine running. You may see some needle movement in
> time with the strobes on as above.
>
> Now you need to check the voltage regulator output to the 'field' of the
> alternator. It's the small wire going to the alternator. It should
> read the same as the battery voltage. Tug on this wire at the
> alternator smartly. Due to engine vibration, the wire could be broken
> inside the insulation and the insulation is the only thing keeping the
> wire there.
>
> So far so good? Start 'er up. Measure the voltage on the buss .....
> somewhere around 13.7 volts is good. Look closely at the meter needle.
> At idle (the slowest the engine will go) you may see some 'shiver' of
> the needle. This is a sign that you may have bad diodes in the
> alternator. The shiver is caused by ripple on the output from the
> alternator. A cigarette lighter socket is a good place to measure, but
> be careful. The center pin is positive and the outer case is ground.
> You do not want to short those two together ..... a fuse or ckt breaker
> will blow ..... or should if wired correctly.
>
> Turn on the radios and landing lights (leave the strobes off for now) to
> add some load. Pitot heat is good too, if you have it. The 13.7 (or
> whatever you measured before) should be steady.
>
> Now things get sticky ...... and troubleshooting becomes harder ....
> trying to separate a failure between alternator and regulator is tough.
> You can pull the alternator and have it tested ..... a lot of car parts
> stores have testers nowadays .... to see if that's the culprit.
> Replacing the regulator is more expensive, but if you can swap it out
> with a known good regulator (try and borrow one if you can) I'd do
> that. The problem at this level is that the chargind system is a closed
> loop .... the alternator reacts to changes of voltage at the 'field'
> wire and the regulator reacts to changes in output of the regulator. It
> really is a vicious cycle!!! It's really rock simple, but hard to
> troubleshoot.
>
> Bottom line .... check all the connections at regulator and alternator
> ..... and check the operation of the 'alternator field switch' (if you
> have one) since a small resistance of the switch contacts will have a
> big effect on the system operation.
>
> This is all I can think of at the moment. Oh yeah, you can ask around
> for some help from your EAA chapter or other local builders that are
> knowledgeable.
>
> Hope all this is of some help!!!
> Linn
>
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Wavering Gauge
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
> >>
> >>I'm going to guess that you have an electric oil temp gauge. The change
> >>in reading is caused by the increased current draw of the strobes making
> >>the voltage drop. The wavering needle is a sign of poor voltage
> >>regulation. This can be caused by the regulator itself or by lousy
> >>rectification in the alternator. Blown diodes in the rectifier also
> >>show up as a whine in the radio .... and the frequency changes with
> >>engine RPM. The ripple on the oputput of an alternator with blown
> >>diodes will cause an electronic regulator more problems than the old
> >>relay style regulators. Of course all this may be way off the mark but
> >>it's my best guess with the little info you gave.
> >>
> >>Congrats on the YE flights.
> >>
> >>Linn
> >>do not archive
> >>Kyle Boatright wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kboatright1@comcast.net>
> >>>
> >>>Saturday, I spent most of the morning flying Young Eagles. I lost
count,
> >>>
> >>>
> >but it was 8 or 10 of 'em...
> >
> >
> >>>Anyway, I noticed two odd things about my oil temperature gauge (and
with
> >>>
> >>>
> >275 hours on the plane, I'm sure I'd have noticed before now.)
> >
> >
> >>>1) With the strobes on (hazy day) the oil temperature gauge immediately
> >>>
> >>>
> >read 10-15 degrees higher than with the strobes off. Turning the strobes
off
> >returned the temp gauge to where it was before...
> >
> >
> >>>2) Whether the strobes were on or off, the needle on the oil temp gauge
> >>>
> >>>
> >had a little wiggle in it. Kind of like the shakes I get when I've had a
> >little too much Diet Coke.
> >
> >
> >>>The gauge and sender are the Rochester brand, as sold by Aircraft
Spruce.
> >>>
> >>>My immediate thoughts are to check the connections on the temperature
> >>>
> >>>
> >sender and gauge.
> >
> >
> >>>Any suggestions beyond that?
> >>>
> >>>KB
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical wire labeling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Bibb" <rebibb@comcast.net>
I read someplace (probably on this list) of someone who used a laser printer
to print labels on plain paper. Used 8pt type on plain paper, cut them into
strips, inserted under clear heatshrink on the wires and all was well. Don't
know if this would work, how they would age, etc, etc. Maybe inkjet would
be better, maybe something other than paper (laserjet colored
tranparencies?) would be an improvement, etc.
Food for thought but if you use it and it works - let us know. I was
planning on experimenting with this technique when I start wiring...
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical wire labeling |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
>
>When I built my 6 I used a regular ole thermal label printer to make
>label for wiring. Worked ok but what I really wanted to do was shrink
>wrap the label under a clear heat shrink. One little problem, as soon as
>you applied any heat to the heat shring, the label would go black. DUH!
>So I have scoured the web looking for a non-thermal label maker. No Joy.
>I could write on a colored heatshrink and shrink it. That does work. But
>what really looks neat and lasts a long time is heat shrink around a
>label.
>
>
>Do you know of a non-thermal label printer that kicks out little strips?
>
Well, yes and no. There are wire labelers that print with ink on the
wire or on heat shrink tubing. They are pricey. However, you can print
the labels on your printer, cut the text out and put under the clear
heat shrink tubing. You can change the font size to match the wire size.
Linn
>
>
>Michael Stewart
>
>Ahhh, wiring.
>
>Do not archive. Remove for good answers
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: More kit frustration!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
In a message dated 8/30/2004 8:50:28 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
deanpsir@easystreet.com writes:
<<Latest BS has to do with mounting the nose wheel tire..I split the rims and
installed the tube in the tire and tried to put the rim halves together but
NO WAY.>>
I have the same problem. I have installed a lot of tires on rims but this
one takes the cake. I used lots of talc, drum sanded the tire bead, inflated
the tire to 90 lbs and let it set overnight. The tire bead never came closer
than 3/8" to the rim.
I called Van's and they had no clue. I have ordered a new tire on their
recommendation. If that doesn't work we will check the dimension tolerances of
the wheel.
Bob Trumpfheller
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS Magnetometer... |
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I am getting ready to install a new Blue Mountain Sport
[http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/esportmain.php] and their two axis
autopilot in my -8A and am wondering where people are putting their remote
magnetometers? I've read a bunch of the archives and like where Sam put his
on the rear deck below the vertical stab I think), but am curious... Don't
all the bolts back there that hold the tail on cause problems? What about
my strobe high voltage cabling? Any thoughts?
Anyone else have a good spot on in the -8 to put this thing?
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
bill@vondane.com
RV-8A - Colorado Springs
EAA Tech Counselor
www.vondane.com
www.rv8a.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 19
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
There are a couple of things you can do to get a tire off the rim. I
have a large vice that I can set the tire in and tighten right next to
the rim. Works for one side. The second step is really riskey, but it
works. Take the largest flat-blade screwdriver and force it between the
rim and tire. DO NOT PUT PRESSURE ON THE VERY OUTSIDE EDGE OF THE RIM.
Yes, I yelled. You stand a really big chance of buying a wheel along
with the new tire!!!! Press down on the screwdriver towards the tire.
Move over a couple of inches and repeat, going all around the tire until
the bead pops loose. As for the talc ..... most folks don't put the
talc on the wheel rims. I do and don't have problems getting the tires
off. However, alex could be right .... but it works for me.
Linn
Alex Peterson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>If you think it is fun putting them on, wait until you have to get one
>of those s.o.b.'s back off. I almost took a grinder to the tire. It is
>unbelievable how "one" they become with the rims. Doesn't matter if you
>use talc. Next time I'm going to try some sort of teflon dust. So,
>enjoy the easy part.
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN
>RV6-A N66AP 518 hours
>http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | A/C construction insurance |
--> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
Insurance question (hope I dont offend the purists)
After reading the posts re homeowners insurance not covering A/C construction parts
and projects I decided to check my policy. Sure enough Allstate specifically
excludes A/C and A/C parts and everything related. This is a shock since
I have two half completed RV-8s in my shop. (I am building one and a friend is
building the other)
My question to you is this: What are you doing to insure your project until you
get your airworthiness certificate? Does your coverage include your labor?
Chris Stone
RV-8 Wings
Newberg, OR
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Wavering Gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
cgalley wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
>I would first clean the battery terminals as the battery smoothes out the
>system. Poor connections here create problems elsewhere.
>
>Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
>Safety Programs Editor - TC
>EAA Sport Pilot
>
A very good point Cy. The other thing to check is to make sure that you
have a good (two is better) ground strap around the motor mount isolators.
Linn ...... slowly emerging from the cobwebs. Things I haven't thought
about in a long time!!!
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: More kit frustration!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Getting a grip on tire changing is mostly a matter of
figuring out some technique; if you are grunting, you ain't doing it
right. ;-)
Sam Buchanan (lots and lots of practice flippin' tires on the RV-6)
Sam: I'll take any tips you have on breaking the bead in the nosewheel tire, as
it's a job I have to do again soon (slow leak in a new tube) and I find it a
most frustrating and difficult task. I've tried whacking with a dead-blow hammer,
prying with a wide flat screwdriver, and pinching the tire beads together
in a bench vise, but they give up only with all my strength and patience expended.
Fire away; I'm ready to copy!
-Stormy
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: A/C construction insurance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Generally, you call an aviation insurance company and get them to issue you
a policy that covers your project. You determine how much insurance to
carry, then pay for that amount of insurance. If you want to cover your
labor, fine, if not, that's OK too. If I remember correctly, my old policy
valued my labor at something like $25/hr.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Stone" <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: A/C construction insurance
> --> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
>
> Insurance question (hope I dont offend the purists)
>
> After reading the posts re homeowners insurance not covering A/C
construction parts and projects I decided to check my policy. Sure enough
Allstate specifically excludes A/C and A/C parts and everything related.
This is a shock since I have two half completed RV-8s in my shop. (I am
building one and a friend is building the other)
>
> My question to you is this: What are you doing to insure your project
until you get your airworthiness certificate? Does your coverage include
your labor?
>
> Chris Stone
> RV-8 Wings
> Newberg, OR
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: More kit frustration!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
SportAV8R@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
> Sam: I'll take any tips you have on breaking the bead in the
> nosewheel tire, as it's a job I have to do again soon (slow leak in a
> new tube) and I find it a most frustrating and difficult task. I've
> tried whacking with a dead-blow hammer, prying with a wide flat
> screwdriver, and pinching the tire beads together in a bench vise,
> but they give up only with all my strength and patience expended.
>
> Fire away; I'm ready to copy!
>
> -Stormy
Stormy, I'm going to defer to those who have more experience with the
nose wheel than I. With the mains, I stand on the beads; the first side
usually pops off readily and the second sometimes requires some gentle
persuasion with a tire iron. All this is done after the rotor has been
removed from the wheel.
It does sound as if the little wheel is more of a character-builder than
the main tires. :-)
By the way, make sure your slow leak is not due to a faulty valve stem.
Sam Buchanan
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wavering Gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Odds are you don't have everything grounded to one spot, and your gauge is reacting
to the different ground potentials between two different points in the ground
system/airframe as the strobe power supply draws its pulsating current.
The gauge won't be steady unless the ground reference voltage is steady. There's
a whole chapter in the AeroElectric Connection on this problem and its cures.
-Stormy
-wish I had read that book before I built my RV!
Message 26
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| Subject: | Electrical wire labeling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Not pricy. I bought my Kroy TM600 heat shrink printer on ebay for $80.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electrical wire labeling
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
>
>When I built my 6 I used a regular ole thermal label printer to make
>label for wiring. Worked ok but what I really wanted to do was shrink
>wrap the label under a clear heat shrink. One little problem, as soon
as
>you applied any heat to the heat shring, the label would go black. DUH!
>So I have scoured the web looking for a non-thermal label maker. No
Joy.
>I could write on a colored heatshrink and shrink it. That does work.
But
>what really looks neat and lasts a long time is heat shrink around a
>label.
>
>
>Do you know of a non-thermal label printer that kicks out little
strips?
>
Well, yes and no. There are wire labelers that print with ink on the
wire or on heat shrink tubing. They are pricey. However, you can print
the labels on your printer, cut the text out and put under the clear
heat shrink tubing. You can change the font size to match the wire
size.
Linn
>
>
>Michael Stewart
>
>Ahhh, wiring.
>
>Do not archive. Remove for good answers
>
>
>
>
==
==
==
==
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: A/C construction insurance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Most folks get builder's insurance at some point in their project, I did
about the time the avionics went in, but others might do it sooner. It's
cheap insurance.
Pat Hatch
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Stone" <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: A/C construction insurance
> --> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
>
> Insurance question (hope I dont offend the purists)
>
> After reading the posts re homeowners insurance not covering A/C
construction parts and projects I decided to check my policy. Sure enough
Allstate specifically excludes A/C and A/C parts and everything related.
This is a shock since I have two half completed RV-8s in my shop. (I am
building one and a friend is building the other)
>
> My question to you is this: What are you doing to insure your project
until you get your airworthiness certificate? Does your coverage include
your labor?
>
> Chris Stone
> RV-8 Wings
> Newberg, OR
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical wire labeling |
--> RV-List message posted by: Peter Laurence <dr.laurence@mbdi.org>
Michael
You might try using numbered adhesive labels.
They can be purchased in tablet form.
They stick well (same tape as the medical adhesive tape)
I found that 1/8" clear shrink worked for 90% of the of the wire used
Drawback- Need to keep a wire table record
If you want to give it a try, email me off list and I'll try and dig up a
few and mail them to you
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Subject: RV-List: Electrical wire labeling
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
>
> When I built my 6 I used a regular ole thermal label printer to make
> label for wiring. Worked ok but what I really wanted to do was shrink
> wrap the label under a clear heat shrink. One little problem, as soon as
> you applied any heat to the heat shring, the label would go black. DUH!
> So I have scoured the web looking for a non-thermal label maker. No Joy.
> I could write on a colored heatshrink and shrink it. That does work. But
> what really looks neat and lasts a long time is heat shrink around a
> label.
>
>
> Do you know of a non-thermal label printer that kicks out little strips?
>
>
> Michael Stewart
>
> Ahhh, wiring.
>
> Do not archive. Remove for good answers
>
>
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Or you could get Spruce's cheap bead breaker...I have had one and has worked
great for years. P/n 12-16790 at $129. Ok, maybe not so cheap any more...
Pat Hatch
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: tire stuff
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> There are a couple of things you can do to get a tire off the rim. I
> have a large vice that I can set the tire in and tighten right next to
> the rim. Works for one side. The second step is really riskey, but it
> works. Take the largest flat-blade screwdriver and force it between the
> rim and tire. DO NOT PUT PRESSURE ON THE VERY OUTSIDE EDGE OF THE RIM.
> Yes, I yelled. You stand a really big chance of buying a wheel along
> with the new tire!!!! Press down on the screwdriver towards the tire.
> Move over a couple of inches and repeat, going all around the tire until
> the bead pops loose. As for the talc ..... most folks don't put the
> talc on the wheel rims. I do and don't have problems getting the tires
> off. However, alex could be right .... but it works for me.
> Linn
>
>
> Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
<alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> >
> >If you think it is fun putting them on, wait until you have to get one
> >of those s.o.b.'s back off. I almost took a grinder to the tire. It is
> >unbelievable how "one" they become with the rims. Doesn't matter if you
> >use talc. Next time I'm going to try some sort of teflon dust. So,
> >enjoy the easy part.
> >
> >Alex Peterson
> >Maple Grove, MN
> >RV6-A N66AP 518 hours
> >http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: A/C construction insurance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
http://www.rvproject.com/insurance.html
The builder's risk policy that I had with Nationair valued my labor at
$15/hour. It had a sliding value scale that was based on invoices/receipts.
It was about $400/year...well worth it in my opinion given how many stories
I've heard about theft, vandalism, and the neighbor kids burning down sheds
and stuff like that (seriously).
I know some people who save the $$$ and insure their project with Smith &
Wesson...I guess that works, too. 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Stone" <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: A/C construction insurance
> --> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
>
> Insurance question (hope I dont offend the purists)
>
> After reading the posts re homeowners insurance not covering A/C
construction parts and projects I decided to check my policy. Sure enough
Allstate specifically excludes A/C and A/C parts and everything related.
This is a shock since I have two half completed RV-8s in my shop. (I am
building one and a friend is building the other)
>
> My question to you is this: What are you doing to insure your project
until you get your airworthiness certificate? Does your coverage include
your labor?
>
> Chris Stone
> RV-8 Wings
> Newberg, OR
>
>
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rhett Westerman" <Rhettwesterman@cox.net>
Or find a local tire shop that can handle the small rim. I found one 3
minutes from the airport and he charges me $8/tire to replace etc and well
worth it. Takes him 5 minutes, so I wait for it.
best,
Rhett
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch
Subject: Re: RV-List: tire stuff
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Or you could get Spruce's cheap bead breaker...I have had one and has worked
great for years. P/n 12-16790 at $129. Ok, maybe not so cheap any more...
Pat Hatch
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: tire stuff
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> There are a couple of things you can do to get a tire off the rim. I
> have a large vice that I can set the tire in and tighten right next to
> the rim. Works for one side. The second step is really riskey, but it
> works. Take the largest flat-blade screwdriver and force it between the
> rim and tire. DO NOT PUT PRESSURE ON THE VERY OUTSIDE EDGE OF THE RIM.
> Yes, I yelled. You stand a really big chance of buying a wheel along
> with the new tire!!!! Press down on the screwdriver towards the tire.
> Move over a couple of inches and repeat, going all around the tire until
> the bead pops loose. As for the talc ..... most folks don't put the
> talc on the wheel rims. I do and don't have problems getting the tires
> off. However, alex could be right .... but it works for me.
> Linn
>
>
> Alex Peterson wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
<alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> >
> >If you think it is fun putting them on, wait until you have to get one
> >of those s.o.b.'s back off. I almost took a grinder to the tire. It is
> >unbelievable how "one" they become with the rims. Doesn't matter if you
> >use talc. Next time I'm going to try some sort of teflon dust. So,
> >enjoy the easy part.
> >
> >Alex Peterson
> >Maple Grove, MN
> >RV6-A N66AP 518 hours
> >http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS Magnetometer... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Bill,
Seems to be the most common location is now the wingtip. Both BMA & Dynon
claim the strobe causes less of a problem than steel parts.
Just my experience.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Subject: RV-List: Blue Mountain EFIS Magnetometer...
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I am getting ready to install a new Blue Mountain Sport
[http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/esportmain.php] and their two axis
autopilot in my -8A and am wondering where people are putting their remote
magnetometers? I've read a bunch of the archives and like where Sam put his
on the rear deck below the vertical stab I think), but am curious... Don't
all the bolts back there that hold the tail on cause problems? What about
my strobe high voltage cabling? Any thoughts?
Anyone else have a good spot on in the -8 to put this thing?
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
bill@vondane.com
RV-8A - Colorado Springs
EAA Tech Counselor
www.vondane.com
www.rv8a.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch"
> Or you could get Spruce's cheap bead breaker...
> I have had one and has worked
> great for years. P/n 12-16790 at $129.
> Ok, maybe not so cheap any more...
> Pat Hatch
Harbor Freight has one on sale for $30.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34552
I've used one like this for a couple of years now, after initial struggles every
time I changed or rotated the main tires. A couple of weeks ago I changed my
nose tire for the first time (after 760 hrs). It was five times as hard as changing
a main! I can't imagine trying to get the old tire off without some kind
of bead breaker. Then, of course, I pinched the tube on reassembly. Fortunately
I had a spare new tube & I was a bit more careful with the second one - plenty
of recent advice on how to do it more easily.
I did have to add a plate to support the wheel on the bead breaker, as it seems
to be designed for wheels with smaller diameter axle holes.
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
RV-6A, 761 hrs.
--
Message 34
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| Subject: | Electrical wire labeling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
I think Linn meant an actual wire printer, which are really pricey. I know
because I just bought one for labeling wires directly. Here's the
deal....they START at around $7,000.00 and go up from there. For the new
laser wire marking systems, you're looking at around $75,000.00. Obviously
I don't have one of those....
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Gray
Subject: RE: RV-List: Electrical wire labeling
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Not pricy. I bought my Kroy TM600 heat shrink printer on ebay for $80.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electrical wire labeling
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
>
>When I built my 6 I used a regular ole thermal label printer to make
>label for wiring. Worked ok but what I really wanted to do was shrink
>wrap the label under a clear heat shrink. One little problem, as soon
as
>you applied any heat to the heat shring, the label would go black. DUH!
>So I have scoured the web looking for a non-thermal label maker. No
Joy.
>I could write on a colored heatshrink and shrink it. That does work.
But
>what really looks neat and lasts a long time is heat shrink around a
>label.
>
>
>Do you know of a non-thermal label printer that kicks out little
strips?
>
Well, yes and no. There are wire labelers that print with ink on the
wire or on heat shrink tubing. They are pricey. However, you can print
the labels on your printer, cut the text out and put under the clear
heat shrink tubing. You can change the font size to match the wire
size.
Linn
>
>
>Michael Stewart
>
>Ahhh, wiring.
>
>Do not archive. Remove for good answers
>
>
==
==
==
==
Message 35
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| Subject: | Vortex Generators |
0.00 FROM_HAS_MIXED_NUMS From: contains numbers mixed in with letters
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Vortex generators on my RV6A didn't reduce cruise speed ... no change.
They do 'soften' stalls, so a power off stall is a mere mush. I also sense
earlier indication of a stall too.
I have a Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) installed. It had been carefully set
so that the analog needle just 'touched' the red arc on the indicator at the
stall break. Without changing the angle of the probe it uses, after the
vortex generators were installed the needle now goes well into the 'red
zone' on the indicator prior to stall break, indicating a higher angle of
attack prior to stall.
Airspeed indicators are too imprecise at high angles of attack to mean much,
but I feel the generators could easily reduce stall speed in an emergency
landing in rough terrain by 5MPH...enough to make a difference in damage to
me and the plane.
FWIW
John
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain EFIS Magnetometer... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
that would be difficult for me as I have my wing tips riveted on... I like
the deck under the vertical stab idea... I have gotten some good responses
on that location...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Blue Mountain EFIS Magnetometer...
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Bill,
Seems to be the most common location is now the wingtip. Both BMA & Dynon
claim the strobe causes less of a problem than steel parts.
Just my experience.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Subject: RV-List: Blue Mountain EFIS Magnetometer...
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I am getting ready to install a new Blue Mountain Sport
[http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/esportmain.php] and their two axis
autopilot in my -8A and am wondering where people are putting their remote
magnetometers? I've read a bunch of the archives and like where Sam put his
on the rear deck below the vertical stab I think), but am curious... Don't
all the bolts back there that hold the tail on cause problems? What about
my strobe high voltage cabling? Any thoughts?
Anyone else have a good spot on in the -8 to put this thing?
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
bill@vondane.com
RV-8A - Colorado Springs
EAA Tech Counselor
www.vondane.com
www.rv8a.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: More kit frustration!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
Bob,
Set the 90 psi inflated tire out in the sun.
It works.
ERic--
RV-8 Wings
----Original Message Follows----
From: N67BT@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: More kit frustration!!
--> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
In a message dated 8/30/2004 8:50:28 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
deanpsir@easystreet.com writes:
<<Latest BS has to do with mounting the nose wheel tire..I split the rims
and
installed the tube in the tire and tried to put the rim halves together but
NO WAY.>>
I have the same problem. I have installed a lot of tires on rims but this
one takes the cake. I used lots of talc, drum sanded the tire bead,
inflated
the tire to 90 lbs and let it set overnight. The tire bead never came
closer
than 3/8" to the rim.
I called Van's and they had no clue. I have ordered a new tire on their
recommendation. If that doesn't work we will check the dimension
tolerances of
the wheel.
Bob Trumpfheller
Message 38
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
Has anyone used cowl flaps on their RV?
Pros & Cons?
ERic--
RV Fuselage!
Message 39
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| Subject: | A/C construction insurance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Russell Nichols" <russnichols@msn.com>
I use Avemco. They have a "builders policy" that runs a couple of hundred
dollars per year for $20k of coverage.
>From: Christopher Stone <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: A/C construction insurance
>Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 07:08:03 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
>
>Insurance question (hope I dont offend the purists)
>
>After reading the posts re homeowners insurance not covering A/C
>construction parts and projects I decided to check my policy. Sure enough
>Allstate specifically excludes A/C and A/C parts and everything related.
>This is a shock since I have two half completed RV-8s in my shop. (I am
>building one and a friend is building the other)
>
>My question to you is this: What are you doing to insure your project
>until you get your airworthiness certificate? Does your coverage include
>your labor?
>
>Chris Stone
>RV-8 Wings
>Newberg, OR
>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | More kit frustration!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Dean,
For whatever reason, this problem is fairly common with the nose tire. The
best way to get it together is to get a couple of long pieces of threaded
dowel that fit into the bolt holes. The just start tightening down on the
dowels with a couple of nuts slowly. Check as you go to make sure the tube
is not getting pinched between the wheel halves. Once you get the two
wheels close enough you can put a couple of the normal bolts in and tighten
them down. Then remove the threaded dowels and replace them with the normal
bolts. Job done. Pinching of the tube has become so common in this task
that Van's now puts a second tube in every kit. have fun.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: More kit frustration!!
>Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 22:47:29 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
>
>You know I love the RV airplanes and I've been privileged to know Dick VanG
>for many years (a fine gentleman whom I greatly admire). I even lived next
>door to him and got my very own personal consultation during the building
>of
>my fuselage kit (way cool). But..sometimes I think I've gotten ALL the
>out-of-tolerance parts that have ever been produced for the RV-6A and the
>frustration of spending unbelievable amounts of time trying to get things
>to
>fit just irritates the hell out of me.
>
>
>Latest BS has to do with mounting the nose wheel tire..I split the rims and
>installed the tube in the tire and tried to put the rim halves together but
>NO WAY. The rims go into the tire maybe a half inch before things get so
>tight that I can't push them in any further, @#$%&... My friend with a
>Q200
>has the same size tires and wheels on his airplane and says that the rim
>should just about slide right in with very little hassle. He says he has to
>use the same size Chin Shen Taiwanese tires that we do and the only time he
>has a problem is with getting them OFF the rims is when he's trying to
>replace a tire (the bead sometimes sticks to the rim). I'm probably
>beginning to sound like a whiner but does anyone have any words of wisdom
>on
>yet another five minute job that is taking a few hours? Is this a common
>problem or am I just lucky enough to have yet another out-of-tolerance
>piece
>of crap that I paid good money for? BTW my buddy with the Q200 says he
>almost invariably has to put his Chin Shen tires on a lathe to true them
>before using (out of round), is this another problem that's been
>experienced
>in the RV world? Does anyone else make this size tire? Thanks.
>
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>
>RV-6A N197DM
>
>It'll get done some day come hell or high water so help me god!
>
>
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Vortex Generators |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
John, which brand vortex generators do you have? Seems like we are seeing
some different results at cruise, so would be nice to see if the
"brand/placement" could be an issue.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: Vortex Generators
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
> Vortex generators on my RV6A didn't reduce cruise speed ... no change.
>
> They do 'soften' stalls, so a power off stall is a mere mush. I also sense
> earlier indication of a stall too.
>
> I have a Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) installed. It had been carefully set
> so that the analog needle just 'touched' the red arc on the indicator at
the
> stall break. Without changing the angle of the probe it uses, after the
> vortex generators were installed the needle now goes well into the 'red
> zone' on the indicator prior to stall break, indicating a higher angle of
> attack prior to stall.
>
> Airspeed indicators are too imprecise at high angles of attack to mean
much,
> but I feel the generators could easily reduce stall speed in an emergency
> landing in rough terrain by 5MPH...enough to make a difference in damage
to
> me and the plane.
>
> FWIW
>
> John
>
>
Message 42
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I know several people have added cowl flaps, it has been discussed on the
lists many times over the years. Instead of going to all that work of
modifying and fabricating, why dont you just fly it first before paint to
see if it is necessary. If you dont have 200 HP+ and live in a hot area
then it most likely it will not be required.
At 12:52 PM 8/31/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
>
>
>Has anyone used cowl flaps on their RV?
>
>Pros & Cons?
>
>ERic--
>RV Fuselage!
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 43
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
What are the cowl flaps going to do for a 200 hp engine in a hot environment?
What's the point? Open up the exhaust side so air passes through quicker?
If you had vents on the top of the cowl and opened them up on the ground I could
see that possibly helping out with a fuel injected setup.
In a message dated 8/31/2004 1:47:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>I know several people have added cowl flaps, it has been discussed on the
>lists many times over the years. Instead of going to all that work of
>modifying and fabricating, why dont you just fly it first before paint to
>see if it is necessary. If you dont have 200 HP+ and live in a hot area
>then it most likely it will not be required.
>
>
>At 12:52 PM 8/31/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
>>
>>
>>Has anyone used cowl flaps on their RV?
>>
>>Pros & Cons?
>>
>>ERic--
>>RV Fuselage!
>>
>>
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical wire labeling |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I just used a plain old printer to print on plain old paper. Then I cut the paper
labels to the right size and shrunk them under some clear heat shrink tubing.
A little more labor intensive but very inexpensive.
Peter Laurence <dr.laurence@mbdi.org> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: Peter
Laurence
Michael
You might try using numbered adhesive labels.
They can be purchased in tablet form.
They stick well (same tape as the medical adhesive tape)
I found that 1/8" clear shrink worked for 90% of the of the wire used
Drawback- Need to keep a wire table record
If you want to give it a try, email me off list and I'll try and dig up a
few and mail them to you
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
Subject: RV-List: Electrical wire labeling
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
>
> When I built my 6 I used a regular ole thermal label printer to make
> label for wiring. Worked ok but what I really wanted to do was shrink
> wrap the label under a clear heat shrink. One little problem, as soon as
> you applied any heat to the heat shring, the label would go black. DUH!
> So I have scoured the web looking for a non-thermal label maker. No Joy.
> I could write on a colored heatshrink and shrink it. That does work. But
> what really looks neat and lasts a long time is heat shrink around a
> label.
>
>
> Do you know of a non-thermal label printer that kicks out little strips?
>
>
> Michael Stewart
>
> Ahhh, wiring.
>
> Do not archive. Remove for good answers
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 45
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| Subject: | RE: [RV-8] Cowl Flaps? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
I agree with Dan & Danny that the standard cowl and a good oil cooler do a
great job.
i.e. Pro = simple system
I'm looking deeper for a potential performance gain!
Pros
CHT control to 375-400F per Lycoming recommended cruise temp., longer TBO
Design system for 400F max CHT with open flaps on Hot Day/Max. Climb
Oil temp control independent of CHT(with separate flap)
Reduced cooling drag, i.e. higher cruise speed and/or lower GPH.
?
Cons
Complexity
Weight
?
What's the spam can experience of what cowl flaps are worth for MPH & GPH?
ERic--
RV-8 Fuselage!
Message 46
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>"Open up the exhaust side so air passes through quicker?"
Isn't that what cowl flaps do..........?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 47
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >see if it is necessary. If you dont have 200 HP+ and live in a hot area
> >then it most likely it will not be required.
>
> What are the cowl flaps going to do for a 200 hp engine in a hot
environment? What's the point? Open up the exhaust side so air passes
through quicker?
I've got 200 horses and I live in a relatively hot climate (SoCal). I have
no need for cowl flaps on the hottest days. In my opinion, cowl flaps treat
a symptom rather than solve a problem. Go with a high quality oil cooler,
get your baffles nice and tight, check your timing, get rid of the flashing
between your fins (I haven't done it, just hear it helps), etc. I'm no
expert, but if *my* setup runs cool, it can't be too difficult to
accomplish! ;-)
I had spam cans before where I *needed* the cowl flaps in certain
conditions. But that's only because (a) the system was probably poorly
designed, (b) I was relatively oblivious at the time, and (c) I was
restricted from experimenting with the setup even if I wanted or knew how
to.
Seems like there are zillions of RVs out there without cowl flaps. I don't
know why you'd need 'em if you get your "cooling system" dialed in. Adding
cowl flaps adds weight, complexity, etc. It could introduce its own set of
problems.
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Vortex Generators |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Bob,
did the VGs effect your cruise or top end performance any?
W
do not archive
Message 49
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--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
I think it boils down to reducing *cooling drag*. Any air going through
the airplane, not around it, introduces drag = loss of speed. If you
set it up to be able to continueously climb at max power on a hot day, I
have no doubt you have an excess of air passing through the engine
compartment at cruise at low ambient temperatures.
What does the guy that wrote "Speed with economy" (Ku...?) have to say
about it?
The guys with the real fast RVs must have "been there, done that".
Finn
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>
>
>>>see if it is necessary. If you dont have 200 HP+ and live in a hot area
>>>then it most likely it will not be required.
>>>
>>>
>>What are the cowl flaps going to do for a 200 hp engine in a hot
>>
>>
>environment? What's the point? Open up the exhaust side so air passes
>through quicker?
>
>I've got 200 horses and I live in a relatively hot climate (SoCal). I have
>no need for cowl flaps on the hottest days. In my opinion, cowl flaps treat
>a symptom rather than solve a problem. Go with a high quality oil cooler,
>get your baffles nice and tight, check your timing, get rid of the flashing
>between your fins (I haven't done it, just hear it helps), etc. I'm no
>expert, but if *my* setup runs cool, it can't be too difficult to
>accomplish! ;-)
>
>I had spam cans before where I *needed* the cowl flaps in certain
>conditions. But that's only because (a) the system was probably poorly
>designed, (b) I was relatively oblivious at the time, and (c) I was
>restricted from experimenting with the setup even if I wanted or knew how
>to.
>
>Seems like there are zillions of RVs out there without cowl flaps. I don't
>know why you'd need 'em if you get your "cooling system" dialed in. Adding
>cowl flaps adds weight, complexity, etc. It could introduce its own set of
>problems.
>
>Best of luck,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
Message 50
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| Subject: | Vortex Generators |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
I don't remember the name, but they came from a supplier in the Seattle area
as I recall.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vortex Generators
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> John, which brand vortex generators do you have? Seems like we are
seeing
> some different results at cruise, so would be nice to see if the
> "brand/placement" could be an issue.
>
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Vortex Generators
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
> >
> > Vortex generators on my RV6A didn't reduce cruise speed ... no change.
> >
> > They do 'soften' stalls, so a power off stall is a mere mush. I also
sense
> > earlier indication of a stall too.
> >
> > I have a Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) installed. It had been carefully
set
> > so that the analog needle just 'touched' the red arc on the indicator at
> the
> > stall break. Without changing the angle of the probe it uses, after the
> > vortex generators were installed the needle now goes well into the 'red
> > zone' on the indicator prior to stall break, indicating a higher angle
of
> > attack prior to stall.
> >
> > Airspeed indicators are too imprecise at high angles of attack to mean
> much,
> > but I feel the generators could easily reduce stall speed in an
emergency
> > landing in rough terrain by 5MPH...enough to make a difference in damage
> to
> > me and the plane.
> >
> > FWIW
> >
> > John
> >
> >
>
>
Message 51
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
On Aug 31, 2004, at 12:33 PM, Finn Lassen wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
snip
> The guys with the real fast RVs must have "been there, done that".
Neither Dave Anders or Tracy Saylor have cowl doors, and they have the
fasted RV's out there....take what you want from that.
I keep thinking of the KISS theory.....
Laird RV-6
SoCal
>
> Finn
>
> Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>>
>>
>>
>>>> see if it is necessary. If you dont have 200 HP+ and live in a hot
>>>> area
>>>> then it most likely it will not be required.
>>>>
>>>>
>>> What are the cowl flaps going to do for a 200 hp engine in a hot
>>>
>>>
>> environment? What's the point? Open up the exhaust side so air
>> passes
>> through quicker?
>>
>> I've got 200 horses and I live in a relatively hot climate (SoCal).
>> I have
>> no need for cowl flaps on the hottest days. In my opinion, cowl
>> flaps treat
>> a symptom rather than solve a problem. Go with a high quality oil
>> cooler,
>> get your baffles nice and tight, check your timing, get rid of the
>> flashing
>> between your fins (I haven't done it, just hear it helps), etc. I'm
>> no
>> expert, but if *my* setup runs cool, it can't be too difficult to
>> accomplish! ;-)
>>
>> I had spam cans before where I *needed* the cowl flaps in certain
>> conditions. But that's only because (a) the system was probably
>> poorly
>> designed, (b) I was relatively oblivious at the time, and (c) I was
>> restricted from experimenting with the setup even if I wanted or knew
>> how
>> to.
>>
>> Seems like there are zillions of RVs out there without cowl flaps. I
>> don't
>> know why you'd need 'em if you get your "cooling system" dialed in.
>> Adding
>> cowl flaps adds weight, complexity, etc. It could introduce its own
>> set of
>> problems.
>>
>> Best of luck,
>> )_( Dan
>> RV-7 N714D
>> http://www.rvproject.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 52
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|
| Subject: | Sept 11, 2004 -RV Forum, 10th Annual Oswego County NY, KFZY |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6160hp@aol.com
Mark your calendars and plan to attend.
September 10, 2004 Friday night fly in, cook out and camp out. The EAA 486
General meeting is that night too.
September 11, 2004 Saturday more fly ins, + technical seminars all day,
meals provided to paid attendee's. Due to insurance all I can say is you tap a
pilot for a ride...there are many who are generous there. Then a nice dinner
banquet with a presentation for an evening wrap up!
September 12, 2004 Sunday AM our great pancake breakfast and perhaps a
coordinated fly out for lunch, planes, weather and pilots willing.
See us at _www.eaachapter486.com_ (http://www.eaachapter486.com/) See the RV
forum website for registration information.
RV pilots get it all for one dollar.
VFR years have seen over 56 RV's and 25 SPAM's fly in with over 150
attendee's.
Again Mike Seager and the new factory RV7 will be doing instruction and
manufacturers like Lycoming and many others have attended, and/or they do send
goodies.
I could go on...but you get the picture...just ask someone who has been
there the $45 is easily worth it. Hope to See you all there.
Respectfully,
David McManmon
Past-President
EAA 486
RV6 Flying, Builder, Pilot N58DM
From: RV6160hp@aol.com
Subject: Sept 11, 2004 -RV Forum, 10th Annual Oswego CO, KFZY
-------------------------------1092430842
Mark your calendars and plan to attend.
September 10, 2004 Friday night fly in, cook out and camp out. The EAA 486
General meeting is that night too.
September 11, 2004 Saturday more fly ins, + technical seminars all day,
meals provided to paid attendee's. Due to insurance all I can say is you tap a
pilot for a ride...there are many who are generous there. Then a nice dinner
banquet with a presentation for an evening wrap up!
September 12, 2004 Sunday AM our great pancake breakfast and perhaps a
coordinated fly out for lunch, planes, weather and pilots willing.
See us at _www.eaachapter486.com_ (http://www.eaachapter486.com) See the RV
forum website for registration information.
RV pilots get it all for one dollar.
VFR years have seen over 56 RV's and 25 SPAM's fly in with over 150
attendee's.
Again Mike Seager and the new factory RV7 will be doing instruction and
manufacturers like Lycoming and many others have attended, and/or they do send
goodies.
I could go on...but you get the picture...just ask someone who has been
there the $45 is easily worth it. Hope to See you all there.
Respectfully,
David McManmon
Past-President
EAA 486
RV6 Flying, Builder, Pilot N58DM
DNA
-------------------------------1092430842
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1458" nameGENERATOR>
<BODY idrole_body style"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000; FONT-FAMILY:=20Arial"
bottomMargin7 leftMargin7 topMargin7 rightMargin7><FONT idrole_document
faceArial color#000000 size2>
Mark your calendars and plan to attend.
September 10, 2004 Friday night fly in, cook out and camp out. The EAA=20486
General meeting is that night too.
September 11, 2004 Saturday more fly ins, + technical seminars all day,
meals provided to paid attendee's. Due to insurance all I can say is you tap a
pilot for a ride...there are many whoare generous there. Then a nice
dinner banquet with a presentation for an evening wrap up!
September 12, 2004 Sunday AM our great pancake breakfast and perhaps a
coordinated fly out for lunch, planes, weather and pilots willing.
See us at www.eaachapter486.com
See the RV forum website for registration information.
RV pilots get it all for one dollar.
VFR years have seen over 56 RV's and 25 SPAM's fly in with over 150
attendee's.
Again Mike Seager and the new factory RV7 will be doing instruction and
manufacturers like Lycoming and many others have attended,and/or they=20do
send goodies.
I could go on...but you get the picture...just ask someone who has been
there the $45 is easily worth it. Hope to See you all there.
Respectfully,
David McManmon
Past-President
EAA 486
RV6 Flying, Builder, Pilot N58DM
DNA
-------------------------------1092430842--
Message 53
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|
| Subject: | I've finally got my XCOM 760 Radio |
--> RV-List message posted by: <John.Morrissey@csiro.au>
Hi All,
When I got home last night I was pleased to see that my XCOM 760 radio
had finally arrived (Serial Number 16). Despite the late hour I hade the
unit hooked up to my base station aerial within an hour or two and all
appears well. Had a couple of conversations with a couple of late night
commuters and they reported good reception. I found the controls to be
reasonably logical and easy to use. Off to the plane on the weekend for
some air trials.
Cheers
John Morrissey
Message 54
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|
| Subject: | Pat on the back for air drill overhaul/repair |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I purchased my Pan American Tool Corp air drill from Avery Tools in Jan
1997. Been using it on my RV-6, which is at the canopy frame stage. Oiled
with Marvel Mystery Oil regularly. It finally developed a problem (locked
up after drilling 2 holes). Was directed to Pan American's web site,
called their toll free number 800-423-2764 and talked to Phil in their
repair shop. They love to support their customers and he quoted $25 to
overhaul/repair the drill, which retails for $149 from Avery (Nova/Pan
American on pg. 33). Took 10 days round trip from when I dropped in post
office until it came back via UPS.
Great service, great tool.
David Carter
Message 55
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|
| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS Magnetometer... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Bill,
I put my Blue Mountain magnetometer behind the rear baggage compartment in
the middle of the fuselage, on a bracket made between the longerons on each
side. I will be interested in where and how you mount your autopilot
servos.
Terry
RV-8A still wiring
Seattle
...
I am getting ready to install a new Blue Mountain Sport
[http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/esportmain.php] and their two axis
autopilot in my -8A and am wondering where people are putting their remote
magnetometers? I've read a bunch of the archives and like where Sam put his
on the rear deck below the vertical stab I think), but am curious... Don't
all the bolts back there that hold the tail on cause problems? What about
my strobe high voltage cabling? Any thoughts?
Anyone else have a good spot on in the -8 to put this thing?
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
bill@vondane.com
Message 56
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|
| Subject: | Electrical wire labeling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Beene" <kbeene@citilink.com>
Stein,
It doesn't have to be that costly. Our prototype shop at work makes heat
shrink labels for all our Mil Spec cables on an Epson tractor feed printer.
They use a special ribbon that bonds with the tubing but I think normal ink
would work. I have some if you want to try it but I junked my tractor feed
printer. The labels come 250 in a box for about $40 (different widths and
colors are available). Here is an example.
http://www.graphicproducts.com/labelers/tls2200/supplies.html
Ken
>
> I think Linn meant an actual wire printer, which are really pricey. I
> know
> because I just bought one for labeling wires directly. Here's the
> deal....they START at around $7,000.00 and go up from there. For the new
> laser wire marking systems, you're looking at around $75,000.00.
> Obviously
> I don't have one of those....
>
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> http://www.steinair.com
Message 57
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|
| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain EFIS Magnetometer... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
I have some ideas on where to put the magnetometer now, but I was hoping you
would tell me where to put the servos! Any ideas?
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Blue Mountain EFIS Magnetometer...
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Bill,
I put my Blue Mountain magnetometer behind the rear baggage compartment in
the middle of the fuselage, on a bracket made between the longerons on each
side. I will be interested in where and how you mount your autopilot
servos.
Terry
RV-8A still wiring
Seattle
...
I am getting ready to install a new Blue Mountain Sport
[http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/esportmain.php] and their two axis
autopilot in my -8A and am wondering where people are putting their remote
magnetometers? I've read a bunch of the archives and like where Sam put his
on the rear deck below the vertical stab I think), but am curious... Don't
all the bolts back there that hold the tail on cause problems? What about
my strobe high voltage cabling? Any thoughts?
Anyone else have a good spot on in the -8 to put this thing?
Thanks...
-Bill VonDane
bill@vondane.com
Message 58
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|
| Subject: | Re: Electrical wire labeling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
I found a deal at an electronics store that dispenses precut sticky labels
that you write on and then stick to the wire. They have a clear tail that
covers the writing. Don't remember what they were called. Only about $30
for a hundred labels.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Vanartsdalen" <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electrical wire labeling
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
> I just used a plain old printer to print on plain old paper. Then I cut
the paper labels to the right size and shrunk them under some clear heat
shrink tubing. A little more labor intensive but very inexpensive.
>
> Peter Laurence <dr.laurence@mbdi.org> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by:
Peter Laurence
>
> Michael
>
> You might try using numbered adhesive labels.
>
> They can be purchased in tablet form.
>
> They stick well (same tape as the medical adhesive tape)
>
> I found that 1/8" clear shrink worked for 90% of the of the wire used
>
> Drawback- Need to keep a wire table record
>
> If you want to give it a try, email me off list and I'll try and dig up a
> few and mail them to you
>
>
> Peter
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Electrical wire labeling
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
>
> >
> > When I built my 6 I used a regular ole thermal label printer to make
> > label for wiring. Worked ok but what I really wanted to do was shrink
> > wrap the label under a clear heat shrink. One little problem, as soon as
> > you applied any heat to the heat shring, the label would go black. DUH!
> > So I have scoured the web looking for a non-thermal label maker. No Joy.
> > I could write on a colored heatshrink and shrink it. That does work. But
> > what really looks neat and lasts a long time is heat shrink around a
> > label.
> >
> >
> > Do you know of a non-thermal label printer that kicks out little strips?
> >
> >
> > Michael Stewart
> >
> > Ahhh, wiring.
> >
> > Do not archive. Remove for good answers
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
Message 59
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|
| Subject: | Electrical wire labeling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Ken,
You're right...about the heatshrink. You can buy them on rolls just like
printer paper to feed through an impace/dot matrix printer. That being
said, the expensive machines I'm talking about print Directly onto the wire
itself, not a sleeve.
Anyway, those would be a good idea, but yet another machine for me to keep
going!
Thanks for the suggestion, I just might look into that sometime in the
future.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken Beene
Subject: RE: RV-List: Electrical wire labeling
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Beene" <kbeene@citilink.com>
Stein,
It doesn't have to be that costly. Our prototype shop at work makes heat
shrink labels for all our Mil Spec cables on an Epson tractor feed printer.
They use a special ribbon that bonds with the tubing but I think normal ink
would work. I have some if you want to try it but I junked my tractor feed
printer. The labels come 250 in a box for about $40 (different widths and
colors are available). Here is an example.
http://www.graphicproducts.com/labelers/tls2200/supplies.html
Ken
>
> I think Linn meant an actual wire printer, which are really pricey. I
> know
> because I just bought one for labeling wires directly. Here's the
> deal....they START at around $7,000.00 and go up from there. For the new
> laser wire marking systems, you're looking at around $75,000.00.
> Obviously
> I don't have one of those....
>
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> http://www.steinair.com
Message 60
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical wire labeling |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I used to use those to label cables but they don't stick well to small wires.
At least in my experience.
Jim Anglin <jlanglin44@earthlink.net> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim
Anglin"
I found a deal at an electronics store that dispenses precut sticky labels
that you write on and then stick to the wire. They have a clear tail that
covers the writing. Don't remember what they were called. Only about $30
for a hundred labels.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Vanartsdalen"
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electrical wire labeling
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen
>
> I just used a plain old printer to print on plain old paper. Then I cut
the paper labels to the right size and shrunk them under some clear heat
shrink tubing. A little more labor intensive but very inexpensive.
>
> Peter Laurence wrote:--> RV-List message posted by:
Peter Laurence
>
> Michael
>
> You might try using numbered adhesive labels.
>
> They can be purchased in tablet form.
>
> They stick well (same tape as the medical adhesive tape)
>
> I found that 1/8" clear shrink worked for 90% of the of the wire used
>
> Drawback- Need to keep a wire table record
>
> If you want to give it a try, email me off list and I'll try and dig up a
> few and mail them to you
>
>
> Peter
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Electrical wire labeling
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
>
> >
> > When I built my 6 I used a regular ole thermal label printer to make
> > label for wiring. Worked ok but what I really wanted to do was shrink
> > wrap the label under a clear heat shrink. One little problem, as soon as
> > you applied any heat to the heat shring, the label would go black. DUH!
> > So I have scoured the web looking for a non-thermal label maker. No Joy.
> > I could write on a colored heatshrink and shrink it. That does work. But
> > what really looks neat and lasts a long time is heat shrink around a
> > label.
> >
> >
> > Do you know of a non-thermal label printer that kicks out little strips?
> >
> >
> > Michael Stewart
> >
> > Ahhh, wiring.
> >
> > Do not archive. Remove for good answers
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 61
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Van's new RV-10
http://www.vansaircraft.com/images/first_flight/220RV_lg.jpg
Jerry
Message 62
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| Subject: | Re: grass runway length for RV's? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Nels Hanson <pa201950@yahoo.com>
I fly in and out of my grass strip which is exactly
1,050 ft. long. It is surrounded by 10'corn in
August,so the useful length is probably closer to 850
ft. I have a 160 HP Sterba prop(fixed pitch). Taking
off is no problem. Landing is the problem. My
indicated stall speed is precisely 54 mph with half
flaps and 52 with full flaps. If I don't bring my RV-6
in at no more than 60-62 indicated with full flaps and
get it down exactly where I want to I go around.
Yes,there is a pucker factor,but the plane will handle
it. The key is to practice several times with markings
on a long grass strip so you KNOW you can do it,not
HOPE you can do it. I never fly off the strip when it
is warmer than 84 degrees and never with two people. I
usually have burned around 8-9 gallons by the time I
land there after flying for an hour to get there.
I wish my strip was 300-400 ft. longer because it is
tough to land on but I enjoy the challenge. It will be
somewhat easier when the farmers harvest the corn.
I practiced a lot on a 1,300 grass strip that I had
marked off in 100 ft. intervals first. I found that
with careful speed control on final I could
consistently land in 800 ft. with average braking.
My friends with RV's will not go into my strip. My
friends with Cubs land there with no problem.
--- cgalley <cgalley@qcbc.org> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley"
> <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> Just go over to Amana and practice! You can always
> go to the Colony Inn
> between attempts and increase your gross!
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> Safety Programs Editor - TC
> EAA Sport Pilot
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <czechsix@juno.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: grass runway length for RV's?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
> >
> > Guys,
> >
> > For those of you with experience flying RV's off
> grass strips, what would
> > you consider the minimum safe runway length? I
> know, it depends on a
> > variety of factors, so in this case lets assume no
> obstacles at either
> > end higher than 6' (i.e. a cornfield in August)
> and no higher terrain or
> > obstacles beyond that, relatively level & smooth
> runway surface,
> > operating at gross weight with 180hp / CS, on a
> hot/humid day (say 95 F)
> > at 880' msl, with no headwind. Maybe throw in a
> bit of dew or post-rain
> > moisture on the grass to reduce braking
> effectiveness, and this would be
> > about the worst case scenario for me here in Iowa.
> Would 1700' be
> > adequate under these conditions? I imagine
> takeoff would be a non-event,
> > so landing and getting stopped without too much
> pucker factor would be my
> > main concern....
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A N2D finishing....
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 63
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| Subject: | Gears for my Slick Magnetos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Harry is the former Slick service manager.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harry Fenton, GippsAero" <gippsaero@charter.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Gears for my Slick Magnetos
> Hi Cy,
>
> Sorry for the delay, but been pretty busy.
>
> The gears from the Bendix are usually interchangeable with the Slick mags.
> It could be that he had an engine set up for two direct drive mags and
> needed a gear for an impulse mag. The impulse gear p/n is 61665 and the
> direct drive is 61667.
>
> Feel free to keep asking questions..
>
> Harry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cgalley [mailto:cgalley@qcbc.org]
> Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 8:22 AM
> To: Harry Fenton
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Gears for my Slick Magnetos
>
> Is this true?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Phil Chapman" <CHAPMAP@uk.ibm.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 2:33 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Gears for my Slick Magnetos
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Phil Chapman <CHAPMAP@uk.ibm.com>
> >
> >
> > I'm replacing my Bendix Magnetos with Slicks on my 0-320 and have found
> > that they need different gears, can anyone tell me which ones I need and
> > does anyone have any spare to sell? My new Slicks are 4371's with
impulse
> > couplings. Any offers off-line on chapmap@uk.ibm.com
> >
> > Do not archive
> >
> > Many thanks
> > Phil Chapman
> > Internet Chapmap@uk.ibm.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 64
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical wire labeling |
--> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
In a message dated 8/31/2004 6:49:11 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
mstewart@iss.net writes
<<Do you know of a non-thermal label printer that kicks out little strips?
Michael Stewart>>
Michael,
I used a Brother Model PT-1750 P-Touch label printer using TZ tape to do
hundreds of wire labels for my 7A. I covered the labels with clear heat shrink
from B&C. I have had no indication of heat degradation. The tape adhesive
leaves a lot to be desired but the heat shrink will keep them in place. I
wonder if other heat shrink brands require more heat?
I don't know what the unit costs, as it was a gift, but I think it's under
$50. The tapes are expensive (as I remember about $16), but one will do a
project.
Bob Trumpfheller
Message 65
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical wire labeling |
--> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
In a message dated 8/31/2004 6:49:11 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
mstewart@iss.net writes
<<Do you know of a non-thermal label printer that kicks out little strips?
Michael Stewart>>
Michael,
I used a Brother Model PT-1750 P-Touch label printer using TZ tape to do
hundreds of wire labels for my 7A. I covered the labels with clear heat shrink
from B&C. I have had no indication of heat degradation. The tape adhesive
leaves a lot to be desired but the heat shrink will keep them in place. I
wonder if other heat shrink brands require more heat?
I don't know what the unit costs, as it was a gift, but I think it's under
$50. The tapes are expensive (as I remember about $16), but one will do a
project.
Bob Trumpfheller
Message 66
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| Subject: | Re: > Re: vortex generators |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Sorry guys , my vortex generator photos didn't upload to Matronics photoshare.
I bought them from Larry Vetterman 605-745-5932.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 67
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| Subject: | Cadillac MI RV Flyin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Bell" <DBell@ManisteeNational.com>
Hello fellow RVers,
September 11th in Cadillac, MI EAA Chapter 678 will host another small flyin of
RVers and any others looking for a place to get a good bowl of Chili or Sloppy
Joe.
In the past we have held this small gathering in May, but this year a southern
event replaced our Spring Venture so we are holding it Saturday Sept 11th.
Our Clubhouse is located on the south side of the field at Wexford County Airport
about due south of the taxiway that heads off 7/25 to the terminal. It can
also be accessed via a taxiway off of the grass strip 18/36. This taxiway turns
off to the west about 3/4 of the way down 18.
We will be casual, have coffee on by 800 0r 830 am and food shortly thereafter.
Fly In or Drive in and enjoy a nice getaway.
If driving in...we are located at the north end of 6th Avenue, where the road dead
ends into the Airport.
From Business US 131 in downtown Cadillac, turn west on 13th Street (Fairgrounds
on this corner). One mile down is 6th Avenue...turn north to dead end.
From M-115 turn East on 13th Street and about 3 miles to 6th Avenue, turn north
to dead end. (4 Winns boat company is on the corner of 13th and 6th.)
Anyone looking for more info please feel free to email me, or call.
We have a 6 and 8 now flying from our group that will be there. Our Pres is building
a Mustang and is trying to get some of their group to flyin as well.
Hope to see some of you on Sept 11th.
There is also a Hot Dog Flyin in Thompsonville just north of us around noon the
same day.
dbell@manisteenational.com
231-398-9106 Home
231-398-0123 Work...x-101
231-392-4627 Cell
Message 68
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim & Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
I am officially a 3-peat offender. My RV-7A took to the air for the first time
today. This is my third RV and the best by far. Performance was awesome. It
is powered by a Superior XP360 with a Hartzell C/S prop. It has an all glass
cockpit including a Blue Mountain EFIS One, Dynon EFIS, and CNX80. I look forward
to lots of cross country flying. Thanks to all on the list who posted
answers to my questions. Even though this was my 4th project, I still found the
list helpful. Keep pounding those rivets. The RV grin is worth the effort.
Jim Cone
Message 69
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical wire labeling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <jlanglin44@earthlink.net>
They don't have to stick to the wires - that's why the tail wraps around -
kinda a safety thing. Maybe you should have read the instructions. Or
maybe it's a different product. I love the way we can't wait to rain on
somebody's parade here.
Crap.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Vanartsdalen" <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Electrical wire labeling
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
> I used to use those to label cables but they don't stick well to small
wires. At least in my experience.
>
> Jim Anglin <jlanglin44@earthlink.net> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by:
"Jim Anglin"
>
> I found a deal at an electronics store that dispenses precut sticky labels
> that you write on and then stick to the wire. They have a clear tail that
> covers the writing. Don't remember what they were called. Only about $30
> for a hundred labels.
>
> Jim
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Vanartsdalen"
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Electrical wire labeling
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen
> >
> > I just used a plain old printer to print on plain old paper. Then I cut
> the paper labels to the right size and shrunk them under some clear heat
> shrink tubing. A little more labor intensive but very inexpensive.
> >
> > Peter Laurence wrote:--> RV-List message posted by:
> Peter Laurence
> >
> > Michael
> >
> > You might try using numbered adhesive labels.
> >
> > They can be purchased in tablet form.
> >
> > They stick well (same tape as the medical adhesive tape)
> >
> > I found that 1/8" clear shrink worked for 90% of the of the wire used
> >
> > Drawback- Need to keep a wire table record
> >
> > If you want to give it a try, email me off list and I'll try and dig up
a
> > few and mail them to you
> >
> >
> > Peter
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
> > To:
> > Subject: RV-List: Electrical wire labeling
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
> >
> > >
> > > When I built my 6 I used a regular ole thermal label printer to make
> > > label for wiring. Worked ok but what I really wanted to do was shrink
> > > wrap the label under a clear heat shrink. One little problem, as soon
as
> > > you applied any heat to the heat shring, the label would go black.
DUH!
> > > So I have scoured the web looking for a non-thermal label maker. No
Joy.
> > > I could write on a colored heatshrink and shrink it. That does work.
But
> > > what really looks neat and lasts a long time is heat shrink around a
> > > label.
> > >
> > >
> > > Do you know of a non-thermal label printer that kicks out little
strips?
> > >
> > >
> > > Michael Stewart
> > >
> > > Ahhh, wiring.
> > >
> > > Do not archive. Remove for good answers
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Scott VanArtsdalen
> > RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
> >
> > When a man does all he can
> > though it succeeds not well,
> > blame not him that did it."
> > -- George Washington
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
Message 70
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| Subject: | RV nose tire mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
Thanks to all for the wisdom on tire mounting. Sam and the rest of the RV
world who appreciate me getting all the out-of-tolerance parts, you're
welcome! This airplane will fly in spite of it though (assuming hurricane
Frances doesn't get my hangar this weekend);-) Jerry relax, I know its not
Vans fault, hell he didn't even make the parts. Sometimes ya just gotta
vent a little (heck you didn't even get some of the prepunch parts that us
later builders were privy to so you must had an even more exciting time
putting yours together). And..as I said, I've been privileged to know THE
MAN and his company and to say I respect and admire him is a gross
understatement. As long as I have a great group of folks like you willing
to share their RV experience, I WILL FINISH THIS PLANE. Thanks again folks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Not whining tonight
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