Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:35 AM - Re: Airborne! (Ed Anderson)
2. 07:14 AM - getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (RV8ter@aol.com)
3. 07:25 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (David Fenstermacher)
4. 07:32 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (Larry Bowen)
5. 07:50 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (David Burton)
6. 08:55 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (linn walters)
7. 08:55 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (linn walters)
8. 09:29 AM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (Ed O'Quinn)
9. 09:30 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (JOHN STARN)
10. 09:42 AM - QB Interior Paint (Pete Howell)
11. 09:46 AM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (Darwin Barrie)
12. 09:53 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (Craig Warner)
13. 09:53 AM - Re: QB Interior Paint (RV8ter@aol.com)
14. 10:44 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (Chris W)
15. 10:57 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (linn walters)
16. 11:02 AM - Re: Why such short rivets? (Michael D Crowe)
17. 11:04 AM - Re: QB Interior Paint (Alex Peterson)
18. 12:17 PM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (Dave Bristol)
19. 01:27 PM - Orndorff spun aluminum spinner kit for sale (Randy Compton)
20. 02:00 PM - RV3 Project (John)
21. 02:05 PM - Re: Refilling Compass (Hal / Carol Kempthorne)
22. 03:30 PM - Re: Refilling Compass (Vanremog@aol.com)
23. 03:51 PM - Tools needed to build a RV tail kit (Michael D Crowe)
24. 04:07 PM - Orndorff Videos (Jim Thorne)
25. 04:39 PM - Aileron Twist ()
26. 04:47 PM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (HCRV6@aol.com)
27. 04:56 PM - So. Cal RV Questions - Slightly off subject - Do not Archive (David Schaefer)
28. 05:20 PM - Re:Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors (Fred Stucklen)
29. 06:12 PM - Van's Air Force 'RV Hotel' list usage (Charlie England)
30. 06:12 PM - Mike Seager (John McMahon)
31. 08:10 PM - Re: Refilling Compass (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
32. 08:17 PM - RV List Great Plane!! (smoothweasel@juno.com)
33. 09:46 PM - Re: Aileron Twist (Jim Oke)
34. 10:08 PM - Re: Aileron Twist ()
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Congratulations, Larry. A long time coming, but as you know - well, worth
it.!
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Airborne!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> The day I though would never come, finally did. I flew N130WN for .8
hours
> today. Exhilarating, but uneventful. Ooo, ooo, ooo does it feel good!
> More details on my website over the coming days. Many thanks to all who
> have help over the years....
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and how
paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula.
What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad
finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it.
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher@earthlink.net>
"Goof-Off" loves to eat adhesive. (Avail. at Home Depot/Lowes)
Whether or not it damages the alclad - don't know.
Dave
> [Original Message]
> From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
> Date: 9/12/2004 10:12:48 AM
> Subject: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and
how
> paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula.
>
> What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad
> finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it.
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I've used Naptha, aka Coleman's Lanturn Fuel. Or MEK if you want to bring
out the big guns.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: RV8ter@aol.com [mailto:RV8ter@aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 10:13 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com; vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick
> to Al and how paint does not. They should make paint from
> duct tape formula.
>
> What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without
> damaging the alclad finish? My wax remover/degreaser &
> alcohol doesn't phase it.
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
I've used "adhesive removing solvent" (it's name) available in any
automotive paint store. It's safe for even painted surfaces. That said,
for adhesive on alclad I'd use acetone. Low health risk and cheap. Don't
get it near plexi or paint...
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
RV8ter@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
>I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and how
>paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula.
>
>What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad
>finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it.
>
The best stuff is kerosene ...... and if you don't have that use mineral
spirits. Put a paper towel over the tape area and keep wet until the
stiff dissolves again. Good luck
Linn
>
>
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
David Fenstermacher wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher@earthlink.net>
>
>"Goof-Off" loves to eat adhesive. (Avail. at Home Depot/Lowes)
>Whether or not it damages the alclad - don't know.
>
>Dave
>
It won't.
Linn
>
>
>
>>[Original Message]
>>From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
>>Date: 9/12/2004 10:12:48 AM
>>Subject: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>>
>>I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and
>>
>>
>how
>
>
>>paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula.
>>
>>What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad
>>finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed O'Quinn" <edoquinn77@charter.net>
Get some "Goo Gone" from you local Home Depot etc.
It works great on lots of things....hurts none.
Ed O'Quinn
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin
> I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and how
> paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula.
>
> What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad
> finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/J8kdrA/y20IAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
>
> Online help on this group at:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Had some duct tape left on for a looong time on N561FS a coupla years ago.
Don't remember who on the list suggested plain old Mayonnaise but it worked.
We put it on, rubbed it in, let it set (15 to 30 min), wiped it off and
after several coatings it came clean. Now we had the dried and crinkled
cloth layer as well as the glue to remove but it did work. Finished off with
an MEK wipe to remove the Mayo.
KABONG (GBA & "W") 8*) Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | QB Interior Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
Hello,
What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their QB fuselages?
What prep did you do to the wash primer that was applied at the factory.
Thanks,
Pete
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Goo Gone works great. Also very effective is Ronson lighter fluid. On items
that aren't ever going to be painted or are already painted, WD40 on a soft
cloth will clean well too.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed O'Quinn" <edoquinn77@charter.net>
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin
> Get some "Goo Gone" from you local Home Depot etc.
> It works great on lots of things....hurts none.
> Ed O'Quinn
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 9:12 AM
> Subject: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin
>
>
> > I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and
how
> > paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula.
> >
> > What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the
alclad
> > finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it.
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Online help on this group at:
> > http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/J8kdrA/y20IAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
>
> Online help on this group at:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Craig Warner" <cwarner@twcny.rr.com>
Try Goo-Gone, available at grocery stores. Or laquer thinner.
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and how
> paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula.
>
> What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad
> finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it.
>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: QB Interior Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
Perfectly timed question as that's what I'm doing this weekend. Friend with
QB fuse just wiped everything down with painter's, lint free cloth using wax
remover/degreaser the shot it with gray cockpit paint out of Spruce. It's got
that rough textured finish that wears well and is super easy to touch up.
Home Depot sells a brand of gray stone finish or something like that which he
bought a can of because it's an almost exact match and when you spray that stuff
on top of itself you can't tell you had a blemish.
So, I'm repeating his process.
In a message dated 9/12/2004 12:43:28 PM Eastern Standard Time,
pete.howell@gecko-group.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
Hello,
What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their QB fuselages?
What prep did you do to the wash primer that was applied at the factory.
Thanks,
Pete
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
linn walters wrote:
>The best stuff is kerosene ...... and if you don't have that . . .
>
>
If you don't have kerosene just go to the FBO and get some Jet fuel,
pretty much the same thing.
--
Chris W
Bring Back the HP 15C
http://hp15c.org
Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help.
http://thewishzone.com
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Chris W wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
>
>linn walters wrote:
>
>>he best stuff is kerosene ...... and if you don't have that . . .
>>
>If you don't have kerosene just go to the FBO and get some Jet fuel,
>pretty much the same thing.
>
Good point. You can probably get some for free depending on what they
do with the sumped fuel each day. Our airport (OK, it's 100LL but they
still sump the jet fuel) just pours it into a 55 gal drum .... and we
can use it for free.
Linn
do not archive
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Why such short rivets? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael D Crowe" <rv8a@bellsouth.net>
Eddie,
I work at Alexander Technical Center in Griffin Ga as an instructor for
their RV quick start tail assembly program. I have work there for two years
and have been involved with over 100 tail kits. This is what I have learned.
If you use the Mil-Spec Mil-R-4719A as your guide the rivets listed are too
short. See http://home.flash.net/~gila/rivet_spec/rivet_a.htm
The plans call for AN470AD4-5 to join the hinge brackets HS-411BPP,
HS-411APP and VA-146 hinge bearing. It is too short. I use AN470AD4-6
The plans call for AN470AD4-6 to join all HS-609PP to HS-603PP. I use
AN470AD4-7
To join HS-412PP, HS-609PP AND HS-603PP I use AN470AD4-8
To join HS-413PP to HS-603PP the listed rivet AN470AD4-5 is too long. I use
AN470AD4-4.5
The AN470AD4-4 rivets listed to join HS-603PP to HS-706 are the correct
length
I find the above to be correct for both the RV7 and RV8.
Mike Crowe
According to the plans HS609PP is supposed to be riveted to HS603PP using
AN470AD4-6 rivets. But when I did a test fitting the rivet looked too short.
I got out the avery gauge, and indeed it looks about 1/8" shorter than the
Gauge says it should be.
--Eddie
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | QB Interior Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> Hello,
>
> What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their
> QB fuselages? What prep did you do to the wash primer that
> was applied at the factory.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Pete
Pete,
I used Imron. It is quite durable - I've got it on the rudder pedals in
my 6A and no wear or chips on them in 522 hours. I'm sure other paint
is equally durable, check with Valspar's reps.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 522 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
on zoot.lafn.org
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Or you could just use plain old ordinary............ COMPASS FLUID!
couldn't resist!
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Chris W wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
>
>linn walters wrote:
>
>
>
>>The best stuff is kerosene ...... and if you don't have that . . .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>If you don't have kerosene just go to the FBO and get some Jet fuel,
>pretty much the same thing.
>
>
>
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Orndorff spun aluminum spinner kit for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" <thecomptons@bellsouth.net>
Listers:
I have an Orndorff spun aluminum spinner, and the Van's S-605 11'' front
plate, S-602-1 13" back plate, and hardware, for sale. The kits were bought
in October of 2002 and are still in the original boxes. I paid $210 for the
spinner and $77.90 for the front/back plates and hardware.
I just never got around to installing the spinner, and now that I have sold
my airplane, I no longer need it. I'll sell it all for $200 plus $15 to cover
shipping. Please let me know
off-list if you are interested.
Thanks,
Randy Compton
Do Not Archive
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
0.00 FROM_HAS_MIXED_NUMS From: contains numbers mixed in with letters
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Sept Sport Aviation is listing an RV3 with engine and it sounds as if it is
pretty well along in construction for $10K (want ad section)
John
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Refilling Compass |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
I guess I should have gotten on this sooner. Anyway, a few suggestions for
those brave experimenters who shun ordinary compass fluid:
Chicken fat will solidify at low temperatures unless you thin it with
ordinary compass fluid.
Jack Daniels is too expensive but some cheap rums might do.
Gasoline is flammable so leaks might be bad. Also, Homeland Security might
ban it. One our California airports once banned storage of any gasoline in
hangars, fearing the fire hazard.
Glacial acetic acid might work and would have the advantage that you will
certainly know the instant it starts to leak. Downside is that eyes may
swell shut before you get to the airport. You could carry dry ice along
and freeze the leaking acid.
Urine from a small redhaired boy who has been drinking lots of pop could be
mixed equal parts by weight with sugar. After a few days in the sun this
too would get your attention if it leaked.
Others have any ideas? We should select the best fluid before the FAA
mandates something that costs $87.07 per fill!
Silly in Paso Robles,
hal
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Refilling Compass |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 9/12/2004 2:05:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
kempthornes@earthlink.net writes:
I guess I should have gotten on this sooner. Anyway, a few suggestions for
those brave experimenters who shun ordinary compass fluid:
=========================================
I still think that DOT 5 (silicone) brake fluid would be ideal, but have not
tried it.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs)
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Tools needed to build a RV tail kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael D Crowe" <rv8a@bellsouth.net>
To introduce myself first I am an A&P mechanic with an IA. I work as a Lead
Mechanic for a major air line. For the past two years I have worked part
time at the Alexander Technical Center at Griffin GA. as an instructor on
their quick start tail assembly program. http://www.buildtofly.com/
I have been involved in over 100 tail kits. I have worked on the 6,7,8,9 and
10 kits; I am also building a RV8A myself.
As each class begins I ask if the student have already purchased their
tools. My hopes are that they have not as we have a good selection of tools
to try from the different manufacturers. The ones that have gotten their
tools before coming often say I wish I had gotten this tool or that tool
instead. In the following I will try to give you a list and suggestions of
tools that I have learned over the past two years. Please keep in mind that
this information is my opinion and mine alone. Others may agree or disagree.
There are two major suppliers of tools for the RV tail kits that I recommend
Avery http://www.averytools.com/ and Cleaveland
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/home.asp both are RV builders and
are good and honest people to do business with.
I would buy a tool kit from Avery or Cleaveland to begin with. Both will
allow you to add or subtract the tools you want to the kit. I will use both
their 2004 catalogs as a guide.
First if you buy Cleaveland's kit I would buy their complete airframe tool
package p/n Comp-Kit 04.
I would subtract from the kit:
BBRP-48 Back Riveting Plate-It is a nice plate but too small in my opinion
CF-80 C-Frame Riveting Tool-More about C-Frames later but if you get this
one also order their C-From Table Kit CTF-48
ASRD-14 Air Swivel Regulator- I have found the round knob regulator is hard
to regulate
I would add to the kit:
I would upgrade to the 3X Rivet gun- The 2x works good on the 3/32 rivet but
not well on the 1/8 rivet. Get a 3x to work well on the 1/8 and turn down
the pressure a little to do the 3/32 or better yet buy one of each.
DP-8 Drive Pin Punches- This is a nice punch set you could get by with only
the 3/32 and 1/8 (you will be removing a few bad rivets)
LBL-13 BOELUBE Do not drill lead without it.
3MW-77S6 Light deburring wheel- You get a rougher one in the kit you need
both. Go to Home Depot or Lowe's and get a grinder and install these wheels.
3MP-47 Scotch-Brite pads-you will need plenty
DIE509-10 #10 SCREW DIMPLE DIES-You will need these to dimple for the screws
for the lead weights
SNYT-45 4in THIN NOSE YOKE- You are going to need a thin nose and a 4in nose
get them both in one.
SNYF-35 2.5in FLANGE NOSE YOKE- There is places where nothing else is going
to reach.
RSMS-75 SWIVEL FLUSH SET WITH RUBBER GUARD-You must cut some of the rubber
down or you rivets will set too high
CLP-20 CLEKO PLIERS-One is not enough.
CLC-50 1/2in CLEKO CLAMP-You get 4. You need at least 10
CLC-100 1in CLEKO CLAMP-You get 4. You need at least 10
For the RV9 DIECS4-4 120 DEGREE DIES FOR 1/8 POP RIVETS-You use a lot of
CS4-4 on the skin of your elevators they are 120 degrees.
For our RV10 friends RSB-12 12in back rivet set-You will need this to back
rivet the stiffeners on the elevators.
The RV10 will also need BBRV10 SPECIAL BUCKING BAR-You will need this for
the elevators.
I would buy from Avery to complete the kit from Cleaveland
575 hand seamer 3-1/2 jaw-I use this to squeezing the trailing edge of the
trim tabs.
550 3/32 vise grip dimplers- several places on ribs this is needed.
150 AIR TOOL REGULATOR-This one is easier to adjust.
1046 SPEED DEBURRING AND COUNTERSINKING TOOL
23904 4 PC. HOOK AND PICK SET-You will need a pick many times for aligning
skins
For the RV9 42120 SPECIAL 120 DEGREE COUNTERSINK-Used where you use CS4-4
rivets on the elevators.
If you buy an Avery tool kit, I would buy the RV-3,-4-6-7-8-9and -10
builders tool kit.
I would subtract from the kit
1001 22in hand rivet and dimpling tool-it is there c-frame tool a good tool
but see below about a c-frame tool
10765 POLYETHYLENE DIMPLING MALLET-Goes with the c-frame tool. If you get
the c-frame tool get the mallet.
500 FLUTING PLIERS- You need a pair of fluting pliers I like Cleaveland's a
lot better.
1042 EDGE ROLLING TOOL- I can not get this tool to work for me. It could
just be me.
3507 3M RIVETING TAPE-Works well. If you use it take it off after use it is
real hard to get off later. Use Scotch Removable Magic Tape works as well
and much cheaper.
9885 ANGLE DRILL KIT- Nice kit not needed for the tail kit could be used
later.
1054 NBR 8 SCREW COUNTERSINK CUTTER-Not needed for the tail kit.
25500 SWIVEL HEAD POP RIVET TOOL-If you must use a hand pop tool use
Cleaveland's PRS-20 it is much easier to squeeze.
I would add to the kit:
7760 4in NO HOLE YOKE
7755 LONGERON YOKE
811 RIVETING TAPE-Scotch removable magic tape.
1003 BOELUBE Do not drill lead without it.
200 CLECO PLIERS-One is not enough.
1661 Light deburring wheel- You get a rougher one in the kit you need both.
Go to Home Depot or Lowe's and get a grinder and install these wheels.
23904 4 PC. HOOK AND PICK SET-You will need a pick many times for aligning
skins.
For the RV9 42120 SPECIAL 120 DEGREE COUNTERSINK-Used where you use CS4-4
rivets on the elevators.
For the RV10 630 RV10 ELEVATOR BUCKING BAR
I would by from Cleaveland to complete the Avery kit:.
3MP-47 Scotch-Brite pads-you will need plenty
DIE509-10 #10 SCREW DIMPLE DIES-You will need these to dimple for the screws
for the lead weights
EF-60 EDGE FORMER-Needed at seams
HS-30 OFFSET HAND SEAMER-Used many places
FP-200 FLUTING PLIERS-Used to straighten ribs
For the RV9 DIECS4-4 120 DEGREE DIES FOR 1/8 POP RIVETS-You use a lot of
CS4-4 on the skin of your elevators they are 120 degrees.
For our RV10 friends RSB-12 12in back rivet set-You will need this to back
rivet the stiffeners on the elevators.
Tools that would be nice to have:
PNEUMATIC SQUEEZER- In my opinion a must have. Get a 214 style. Make sure to
get an adjustable set holder for it.
PNEUMATIC POP RIVET GUN-Go to harbor freight or such and get one for around
$40.00
LIGHTWEIGHT HOSE KITS-Makes it a lot easier to handle drills and rivet guns
TATCO HAND SQUEEZER WITH 2in YOKE-Makes it a lot easier to dimple all those
ribs
C-FRAME DIMPLER
EXPERIMENTAL AERO http://www.experimentalaero.com/ I brought a DRDT-1
dimplier and installed it at Alexander Technical Center to try it out in
January this year.
Boy was that a mistake. There is no way I am getting it back. It is the
best I have used for dimpling. It gives best dimples; it is consistent,
quiet and a one man operation.
There is no way I am going back to the old c-frame hammer method. Now if I
need to dimple I pack up what I have and drive 32 miles even though I have a
hammer c-
Frame dimplier at home. It is that much better. They now sell the DRDT-2
which has some improvement over the -1.
Mike Crowe
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Thorne" <rv7a@cox.net>
Does anyone have any of the Orndorff videos for the RV7/7A that they want to sell.
Please contact me off list with the title and what you want for them.
Do Not Archive
Jim Thorne
7A QB CHD
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
I am finsihing up the riveting of the left aileron. I have riveted the top side
and attached the brackets. When I lay the piece flat on a bench (clecoed) to
start on the bottom, I noticed that there is approx. .145" twist in it. The
instructions say to weigh it down while riveting the bottom. I seriously doubt
that will take care of the twist, as I can see that piece just popping back
to shape after the weight is removed. Is there anything I can do to get it back
to shape before riveting the bottom? Is that amount of twist excessive (it
seems to be to me).
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Strangely enough I have had excellent results in getting duct tape residue as
old as six years off aluminum skins with plain old denatured alcohol. The
secret seems to be to wet the area with a saturated rag and give the alcohol a
minute or two to soften the goo up and then wipe (well maybe scrub) it off with
another saturated rag or paper towel. Naptha also works. BTW, you have to
pull the cloth part of the duct tape off the glue part first and sometimes that
can be a pain.
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final details
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | So. Cal RV Questions - Slightly off subject - Do not Archive |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" <dschaefer1@kc.rr.com>
I have the potential of transferring to Southern California in the Yorba
Linda area. What is the 'RV' climate there? Airports to keep my 6A in?
Fly-in communities?
Please drop me a note off-line.
Regards,
David Schaefer
RV6-A - OFF TO PAINT SHOP!
KCMO
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re:Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1@cox.net>
It would also be interesting to know what you did with the pito &
static ports when
you brought your unit into the shop. The Dynon unit uses these ports for
additional
stabilization (instead of a GPS input).......
I've been flying a Dynon D-10 unit for over 270 Hrs, and have yet to
notice (It's a
backup unit) any problems...
Fred Stucklen
RV-6a N926RV
Hi Ed
I'd be interested and I'm certain that Dynon would as well
to know what
engines are in the planes that are experiencing these problems. As
you & I
both know, even the smooth rotary has it's own harmonic
vibrations, however
in almost 40 hours of flying my Dynon I've yet to see any errors
(but I'm
watching closely). I'd like to hear what engine/prop/ignition
combinations
are involved to see if there is a common thread.
When I first received my Dynon, I brought it to work at a
large mill (had
to show it off to the other instrument mechanics:-) and when
turned on it
immediately showed a ~30 degree right bank and a ~10 degree down
pitch. The
error remained steady at all times within the shop at the mill.
The shop is
solid concrete and feels rock steady, but there was something in
there that
was affecting the Dynon. At home it performed flawlessly again, so
I brought
it back to work the next day. Same error again. At that time I
began to
wonder if vibration or quite possibly electromagnetic interference
from all
the industrial equipment was the cause. After installing it I'd
pretty much
forgotten about that until now.
Just another bit of info to consider.....
Todd Bartrim (Love my Dynon)
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Van's Air Force 'RV Hotel' list usage |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Just heard from my neighbor that there is an RVer & wife from Dallas
stranded at Bruce Campell Field near Jackson MS. I found out too late to
catch them at the airport & offer assistance/lodging (they had already
left for a motel).
I haven't seen the following mentioned on the RV list lately so maybe
it's time for a reminder & to let new arrivals know about it:
http://www.vansairforce.net/rvtravelpages.htm
It's a list with locations/contact numbers of RVers willing to host
other RV-x travelers and/or assist with problems. Just about every
state, with most major & a lot of minor cities are represented. All of
us offer overnight lodging & many can offer hangar space as well.
Just a reminder that help might be nearby if you need it & new friends a
phone call away.
Charlie
flying -4, -7 wings
Slobovia Outernational Airport
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: John McMahon <rv6@earthlink.net>
Those that wish some check out time with Mike Seager in his new RV7
I still have some slots open Sat 18th and 17th at our Annual RV fly in
at lebanon,Tn the 18th (M54) 20 miles east of Nashville...
John McMahon (RV6 near paint)
615-452-8742
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Refilling Compass |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 9/12/04 4:05:51 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
kempthornes@earthlink.net writes:
> Others have any ideas? We should select the best fluid before the FAA
> mandates something that costs $87.07 per fill!
>
> Silly in Paso Robles,
>
> hal
>
Hi Hal,
I posted this a few weeks ago, but here it is again: Ultra pure lamp oil
from any of the Home Depot type stores. Look near the candles and that kind of
stuff. This should be similar to the high grade of kerosene that the compass
makers use. That's what I fly with, I'm sure the flamers will get me!
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Flying 2 months now -- 43 hours)
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RV List Great Plane!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
Just thinking back.......Wow!!! Got up Sat. morning and the day
looked like a nice day to fly. A friend had moved from here (east
mississippi ) to N. Carolina and still had a place in a hanger here. He
called earlier in the week and was looking for a ride back to get hes
plane. I went out my back door of the house and a few more steps brought
me to the hanger. I checked over my R.C. every thing looked well. Pushed
it out and climbed on board....what a nice feeling!.....went through the
check list and proceeded to start the O 320. With about 2 bldes passing
the plane geve a shake and the engine came to life. ( to you guys still
building its a sound something like this YOU GIVE ME SOME THROTTLE AND
I'M GONNA TAKE YOU SCREAMIN INTO THE AIR......) I taxi onto our private
grass strip making a few s-turns thinkin how cool it is to have a tail
dragger. With a short run- up cycle the prop and i'm in the air. I cruise
over to Fayette Al. grab some fuel and walk up to a restaurant for a
light breakfast. By this time it is about 7:15 a short walk back to the
plane and i'm off again. Back in the air I climb to 9500ft above the haze
and any small clouds and watch the ground speed go up to 176Kn (had a
tail wind of 13kn) Thinking wow this is the way to travel. As I pass
north of Atlanta the GS slows to about 164Kn the wind had become calm and
stayed that way the rest of the trip. About 2hr35min after takeoff I
start a 500f/m decent and in another 18min Im lookin at a 3500ft runway
just south of Fayettville North Carlina. I drop in and find a guy is
building a -6 on the field chat to a few guys and pick my friend up and
start back. the trip back is uneventful. With the same speeds ( started
about 163kn then went to about 172kn and back to 165kn the wind was in my
favor all day. Just dodging a few clouds that had started to build we
stop in at Pell City,Al for lunch and fuel and from there head into Miss.
Drop my friend off in Abredeen Ms and then go on to the house. Do the
normal fly-by(check the runway approach) then come around,Land, and push
the plane in the hangar it is now 3:45 in the afternoon. MAN it was a
GREAT!!!!! DAY!! all from the back yard.
Yall keep poundin them rivets!!
Weasel Graber
-4 (75hr)
Brooksville MS
Get your name as your email address.
Includes spam protection, 1GB storage, no ads and more
Only $1.99/ month - visit http://www.mysite.com/name today!
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Twist |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Scott;
After you have the bottom skin-to-spare row of rivets in, you may well find
that the aileron lays flat and remains flat. Squeezing or driving rivets can
cause a subtle deformation of the parts. Usually this is an undesirable
thing to be avoided, in this case it may work in your favour.
So, my suggestion would be to weight the aileron down, do the riveting and
then see what it looks like. With some luck the twist may simply be gone.
Is 0.145 in of twist too much? Well, that is a matter of opinion.
Considering the rather small area of an aileron compared to a wing panel,
the aerodynamic effect will probably be insignificant at the end of the day.
In other words a tiny twist in the wing will more than over-compensate for
the aileron twist or the aileron twist will not be noticeable compared to
the wing's effect. The other consideration is simple cosmetics - will it
look nice enough at fly-ins? Keep in mind that few people will be looking
that closely at your ailerons - only you will really know its there. If you
press on and the other 99.5 % of your airplane is perfect and the only flaw
is a slight twist in an aileron, then it would be time to go back and build
a new aileron. Til then simply press on.
Jim Oke
RV repeat offender
Wpg.., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Twist
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
> All,
>
> I am finsihing up the riveting of the left aileron. I have riveted the
> top side and attached the brackets. When I lay the piece flat on a bench
> (clecoed) to start on the bottom, I noticed that there is approx. .145"
> twist in it. The instructions say to weigh it down while riveting the
> bottom. I seriously doubt that will take care of the twist, as I can see
> that piece just popping back to shape after the weight is removed. Is
> there anything I can do to get it back to shape before riveting the
> bottom? Is that amount of twist excessive (it seems to be to me).
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Wings
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
>
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Twist |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Thanks Jim. I appreciate the feedback.
--- On Tue 09/14, Jim Oke < wjoke@shaw.ca > wrote:
From: Jim Oke [mailto: wjoke@shaw.ca]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron Twist
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Scott;
After you have the bottom skin-to-spare row of rivets in, you may well find
that the aileron lays flat and remains flat. Squeezing or driving rivets can
cause a subtle deformation of the parts. Usually this is an undesirable
thing to be avoided, in this case it may work in your favour.
So, my suggestion would be to weight the aileron down, do the riveting and
then see what it looks like. With some luck the twist may simply be gone.
Is 0.145 in of twist too much? Well, that is a matter of opinion.
Considering the rather small area of an aileron compared to a wing panel,
the aerodynamic effect will probably be insignificant at the end of the day.
In other words a tiny twist in the wing will more than over-compensate for
the aileron twist or the aileron twist will not be noticeable compared to
the wing's effect. The other consideration is simple cosmetics
- will it
look nice enough at fly-ins? Keep in mind that few people will be looking
that closely at your ailerons - only you will really know its there. If you
press on and the other 99.5 % of your airplane is perfect and the only flaw
is a slight twist in an aileron, then it would be time to go back and build
a new aileron. Til then simply press on.
Jim Oke
RV repeat offender
Wpg.., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aileron Twist
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
> All,
>
> I am finsihing up the riveting of the left aileron. I have riveted the
> top side and attached the brackets. When I lay the piece flat on a bench
> (clecoed) to start on the bottom, I noticed that there is approx. .145"
> twist in it. The instructions say to weigh it down while ri
veting the
> bottom. I seriously doubt that will take care of the twist, as I can see
> that piece just popping back to shape after the weight is removed. Is
> there anything I can do to get it back to shape before riveting the
> bottom? Is that amount of twist excessive (it seems to be to me).
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Wings
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
>
================================
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|