---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 09/12/04: 34 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:35 AM - Re: Airborne! (Ed Anderson) 2. 07:14 AM - getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (RV8ter@aol.com) 3. 07:25 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (David Fenstermacher) 4. 07:32 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (Larry Bowen) 5. 07:50 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (David Burton) 6. 08:55 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (linn walters) 7. 08:55 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (linn walters) 8. 09:29 AM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (Ed O'Quinn) 9. 09:30 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (JOHN STARN) 10. 09:42 AM - QB Interior Paint (Pete Howell) 11. 09:46 AM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (Darwin Barrie) 12. 09:53 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (Craig Warner) 13. 09:53 AM - Re: QB Interior Paint (RV8ter@aol.com) 14. 10:44 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (Chris W) 15. 10:57 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (linn walters) 16. 11:02 AM - Re: Why such short rivets? (Michael D Crowe) 17. 11:04 AM - Re: QB Interior Paint (Alex Peterson) 18. 12:17 PM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (Dave Bristol) 19. 01:27 PM - Orndorff spun aluminum spinner kit for sale (Randy Compton) 20. 02:00 PM - RV3 Project (John) 21. 02:05 PM - Re: Refilling Compass (Hal / Carol Kempthorne) 22. 03:30 PM - Re: Refilling Compass (Vanremog@aol.com) 23. 03:51 PM - Tools needed to build a RV tail kit (Michael D Crowe) 24. 04:07 PM - Orndorff Videos (Jim Thorne) 25. 04:39 PM - Aileron Twist () 26. 04:47 PM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (HCRV6@aol.com) 27. 04:56 PM - So. Cal RV Questions - Slightly off subject - Do not Archive (David Schaefer) 28. 05:20 PM - Re:Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors (Fred Stucklen) 29. 06:12 PM - Van's Air Force 'RV Hotel' list usage (Charlie England) 30. 06:12 PM - Mike Seager (John McMahon) 31. 08:10 PM - Re: Refilling Compass (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 32. 08:17 PM - RV List Great Plane!! (smoothweasel@juno.com) 33. 09:46 PM - Re: Aileron Twist (Jim Oke) 34. 10:08 PM - Re: Aileron Twist () ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:35:45 AM PST US From: "Ed Anderson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Airborne! --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" Congratulations, Larry. A long time coming, but as you know - well, worth it.! Ed Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered Matthews, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RV-List: Airborne! > --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" > > The day I though would never come, finally did. I flew N130WN for .8 hours > today. Exhilarating, but uneventful. Ooo, ooo, ooo does it feel good! > More details on my website over the coming days. Many thanks to all who > have help over the years.... > > - > Larry Bowen > Larry@BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:14:02 AM PST US From: RV8ter@aol.com Subject: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and how paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula. What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it. ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:25:20 AM PST US From: "David Fenstermacher" Subject: RE: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin --> RV-List message posted by: "David Fenstermacher" "Goof-Off" loves to eat adhesive. (Avail. at Home Depot/Lowes) Whether or not it damages the alclad - don't know. Dave > [Original Message] > From: > To: ; > Date: 9/12/2004 10:12:48 AM > Subject: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin > > --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com > > I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and how > paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula. > > What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad > finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it. > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:32:22 AM PST US From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RE: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" I've used Naptha, aka Coleman's Lanturn Fuel. Or MEK if you want to bring out the big guns. - Larry Bowen Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: RV8ter@aol.com [mailto:RV8ter@aol.com] > Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 10:13 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com; vansairforce@yahoogroups.com > Subject: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin > > --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com > > I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick > to Al and how paint does not. They should make paint from > duct tape formula. > > What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without > damaging the alclad finish? My wax remover/degreaser & > alcohol doesn't phase it. > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:50:56 AM PST US From: "David Burton" Subject: Re: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" I've used "adhesive removing solvent" (it's name) available in any automotive paint store. It's safe for even painted surfaces. That said, for adhesive on alclad I'd use acetone. Low health risk and cheap. Don't get it near plexi or paint... ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:55:10 AM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters RV8ter@aol.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com > >I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and how >paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula. > >What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad >finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it. > The best stuff is kerosene ...... and if you don't have that use mineral spirits. Put a paper towel over the tape area and keep wet until the stiff dissolves again. Good luck Linn > > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:55:13 AM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters David Fenstermacher wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "David Fenstermacher" > >"Goof-Off" loves to eat adhesive. (Avail. at Home Depot/Lowes) >Whether or not it damages the alclad - don't know. > >Dave > It won't. Linn > > > >>[Original Message] >>From: >>To: ; >>Date: 9/12/2004 10:12:48 AM >>Subject: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin >> >>--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com >> >>I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and >> >> >how > > >>paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula. >> >>What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad >>finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it. >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:29:12 AM PST US From: "Ed O'Quinn" Subject: RV-List: Re: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed O'Quinn" Get some "Goo Gone" from you local Home Depot etc. It works great on lots of things....hurts none. Ed O'Quinn ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin > I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and how > paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula. > > What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad > finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it. > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > http://us.click.yahoo.com/J8kdrA/y20IAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM > > Online help on this group at: > http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/ > > > <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/ > > <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:30:44 AM PST US From: "JOHN STARN" Subject: Re: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" Had some duct tape left on for a looong time on N561FS a coupla years ago. Don't remember who on the list suggested plain old Mayonnaise but it worked. We put it on, rubbed it in, let it set (15 to 30 min), wiped it off and after several coatings it came clean. Now we had the dried and crinkled cloth layer as well as the glue to remove but it did work. Finished off with an MEK wipe to remove the Mayo. KABONG (GBA & "W") 8*) Do Not Archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "linn walters" Subject: Re: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 09:42:47 AM PST US From: "Pete Howell" Subject: RV-List: QB Interior Paint --> RV-List message posted by: "Pete Howell" Hello, What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their QB fuselages? What prep did you do to the wash primer that was applied at the factory. Thanks, Pete ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 09:46:57 AM PST US From: "Darwin Barrie" Subject: RV-List: Re: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin Barrie" Goo Gone works great. Also very effective is Ronson lighter fluid. On items that aren't ever going to be painted or are already painted, WD40 on a soft cloth will clean well too. Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed O'Quinn" Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin > Get some "Goo Gone" from you local Home Depot etc. > It works great on lots of things....hurts none. > Ed O'Quinn > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: ; > Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 9:12 AM > Subject: [VAF Mailing List] getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin > > > > I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and how > > paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula. > > > > What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad > > finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it. > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > Online help on this group at: > > http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://us.click.yahoo.com/J8kdrA/y20IAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM > > Online help on this group at: > http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/ > > > <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/ > > <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 09:53:54 AM PST US From: "Craig Warner" Subject: Re: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin --> RV-List message posted by: "Craig Warner" Try Goo-Gone, available at grocery stores. Or laquer thinner. ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin > --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com > > I've been re-reminded how tenacious duct tape wants to stick to Al and how > paint does not. They should make paint from duct tape formula. > > What's the BEST cleaner for removing the glue without damaging the alclad > finish? My wax remover/degreaser & alcohol doesn't phase it. > > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 09:53:54 AM PST US From: RV8ter@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: QB Interior Paint --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com Perfectly timed question as that's what I'm doing this weekend. Friend with QB fuse just wiped everything down with painter's, lint free cloth using wax remover/degreaser the shot it with gray cockpit paint out of Spruce. It's got that rough textured finish that wears well and is super easy to touch up. Home Depot sells a brand of gray stone finish or something like that which he bought a can of because it's an almost exact match and when you spray that stuff on top of itself you can't tell you had a blemish. So, I'm repeating his process. In a message dated 9/12/2004 12:43:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, pete.howell@gecko-group.com writes: --> RV-List message posted by: "Pete Howell" Hello, What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their QB fuselages? What prep did you do to the wash primer that was applied at the factory. Thanks, Pete ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 10:44:08 AM PST US From: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin --> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net> linn walters wrote: >The best stuff is kerosene ...... and if you don't have that . . . > > If you don't have kerosene just go to the FBO and get some Jet fuel, pretty much the same thing. -- Chris W Bring Back the HP 15C http://hp15c.org Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help. http://thewishzone.com ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 10:57:57 AM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters Chris W wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net> > >linn walters wrote: > >>he best stuff is kerosene ...... and if you don't have that . . . >> >If you don't have kerosene just go to the FBO and get some Jet fuel, >pretty much the same thing. > Good point. You can probably get some for free depending on what they do with the sumped fuel each day. Our airport (OK, it's 100LL but they still sump the jet fuel) just pours it into a 55 gal drum .... and we can use it for free. Linn do not archive ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 11:02:09 AM PST US From: "Michael D Crowe" Subject: RE: RV-List: Why such short rivets? --> RV-List message posted by: "Michael D Crowe" Eddie, I work at Alexander Technical Center in Griffin Ga as an instructor for their RV quick start tail assembly program. I have work there for two years and have been involved with over 100 tail kits. This is what I have learned. If you use the Mil-Spec Mil-R-4719A as your guide the rivets listed are too short. See http://home.flash.net/~gila/rivet_spec/rivet_a.htm The plans call for AN470AD4-5 to join the hinge brackets HS-411BPP, HS-411APP and VA-146 hinge bearing. It is too short. I use AN470AD4-6 The plans call for AN470AD4-6 to join all HS-609PP to HS-603PP. I use AN470AD4-7 To join HS-412PP, HS-609PP AND HS-603PP I use AN470AD4-8 To join HS-413PP to HS-603PP the listed rivet AN470AD4-5 is too long. I use AN470AD4-4.5 The AN470AD4-4 rivets listed to join HS-603PP to HS-706 are the correct length I find the above to be correct for both the RV7 and RV8. Mike Crowe According to the plans HS609PP is supposed to be riveted to HS603PP using AN470AD4-6 rivets. But when I did a test fitting the rivet looked too short. I got out the avery gauge, and indeed it looks about 1/8" shorter than the Gauge says it should be. --Eddie ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 11:04:19 AM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: QB Interior Paint --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > Hello, > > What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their > QB fuselages? What prep did you do to the wash primer that > was applied at the factory. > > Thanks, > > Pete Pete, I used Imron. It is quite durable - I've got it on the rudder pedals in my 6A and no wear or chips on them in 522 hours. I'm sure other paint is equally durable, check with Valspar's reps. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 522 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 12:17:03 PM PST US From: Dave Bristol Subject: Re: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin on zoot.lafn.org --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol Or you could just use plain old ordinary............ COMPASS FLUID! couldn't resist! DO NOT ARCHIVE Chris W wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net> > >linn walters wrote: > > > >>The best stuff is kerosene ...... and if you don't have that . . . >> >> >> >> > >If you don't have kerosene just go to the FBO and get some Jet fuel, >pretty much the same thing. > > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 01:27:38 PM PST US From: "Randy Compton" Subject: RV-List: Orndorff spun aluminum spinner kit for sale --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" Listers: I have an Orndorff spun aluminum spinner, and the Van's S-605 11'' front plate, S-602-1 13" back plate, and hardware, for sale. The kits were bought in October of 2002 and are still in the original boxes. I paid $210 for the spinner and $77.90 for the front/back plates and hardware. I just never got around to installing the spinner, and now that I have sold my airplane, I no longer need it. I'll sell it all for $200 plus $15 to cover shipping. Please let me know off-list if you are interested. Thanks, Randy Compton Do Not Archive ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 02:00:43 PM PST US From: "John" Subject: RV-List: RV3 Project 0.00 FROM_HAS_MIXED_NUMS From: contains numbers mixed in with letters --> RV-List message posted by: "John" Sept Sport Aviation is listing an RV3 with engine and it sounds as if it is pretty well along in construction for $10K (want ad section) John ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 02:05:27 PM PST US From: Hal / Carol Kempthorne Subject: Re: RV-List: Refilling Compass --> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne I guess I should have gotten on this sooner. Anyway, a few suggestions for those brave experimenters who shun ordinary compass fluid: Chicken fat will solidify at low temperatures unless you thin it with ordinary compass fluid. Jack Daniels is too expensive but some cheap rums might do. Gasoline is flammable so leaks might be bad. Also, Homeland Security might ban it. One our California airports once banned storage of any gasoline in hangars, fearing the fire hazard. Glacial acetic acid might work and would have the advantage that you will certainly know the instant it starts to leak. Downside is that eyes may swell shut before you get to the airport. You could carry dry ice along and freeze the leaking acid. Urine from a small redhaired boy who has been drinking lots of pop could be mixed equal parts by weight with sugar. After a few days in the sun this too would get your attention if it leaked. Others have any ideas? We should select the best fluid before the FAA mandates something that costs $87.07 per fill! Silly in Paso Robles, hal ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 03:30:51 PM PST US From: Vanremog@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Refilling Compass --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com In a message dated 9/12/2004 2:05:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time, kempthornes@earthlink.net writes: I guess I should have gotten on this sooner. Anyway, a few suggestions for those brave experimenters who shun ordinary compass fluid: ========================================= I still think that DOT 5 (silicone) brake fluid would be ideal, but have not tried it. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs) ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 03:51:38 PM PST US From: "Michael D Crowe" Subject: RV-List: Tools needed to build a RV tail kit --> RV-List message posted by: "Michael D Crowe" To introduce myself first I am an A&P mechanic with an IA. I work as a Lead Mechanic for a major air line. For the past two years I have worked part time at the Alexander Technical Center at Griffin GA. as an instructor on their quick start tail assembly program. http://www.buildtofly.com/ I have been involved in over 100 tail kits. I have worked on the 6,7,8,9 and 10 kits; I am also building a RV8A myself. As each class begins I ask if the student have already purchased their tools. My hopes are that they have not as we have a good selection of tools to try from the different manufacturers. The ones that have gotten their tools before coming often say I wish I had gotten this tool or that tool instead. In the following I will try to give you a list and suggestions of tools that I have learned over the past two years. Please keep in mind that this information is my opinion and mine alone. Others may agree or disagree. There are two major suppliers of tools for the RV tail kits that I recommend Avery http://www.averytools.com/ and Cleaveland http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/home.asp both are RV builders and are good and honest people to do business with. I would buy a tool kit from Avery or Cleaveland to begin with. Both will allow you to add or subtract the tools you want to the kit. I will use both their 2004 catalogs as a guide. First if you buy Cleaveland's kit I would buy their complete airframe tool package p/n Comp-Kit 04. I would subtract from the kit: BBRP-48 Back Riveting Plate-It is a nice plate but too small in my opinion CF-80 C-Frame Riveting Tool-More about C-Frames later but if you get this one also order their C-From Table Kit CTF-48 ASRD-14 Air Swivel Regulator- I have found the round knob regulator is hard to regulate I would add to the kit: I would upgrade to the 3X Rivet gun- The 2x works good on the 3/32 rivet but not well on the 1/8 rivet. Get a 3x to work well on the 1/8 and turn down the pressure a little to do the 3/32 or better yet buy one of each. DP-8 Drive Pin Punches- This is a nice punch set you could get by with only the 3/32 and 1/8 (you will be removing a few bad rivets) LBL-13 BOELUBE Do not drill lead without it. 3MW-77S6 Light deburring wheel- You get a rougher one in the kit you need both. Go to Home Depot or Lowe's and get a grinder and install these wheels. 3MP-47 Scotch-Brite pads-you will need plenty DIE509-10 #10 SCREW DIMPLE DIES-You will need these to dimple for the screws for the lead weights SNYT-45 4in THIN NOSE YOKE- You are going to need a thin nose and a 4in nose get them both in one. SNYF-35 2.5in FLANGE NOSE YOKE- There is places where nothing else is going to reach. RSMS-75 SWIVEL FLUSH SET WITH RUBBER GUARD-You must cut some of the rubber down or you rivets will set too high CLP-20 CLEKO PLIERS-One is not enough. CLC-50 1/2in CLEKO CLAMP-You get 4. You need at least 10 CLC-100 1in CLEKO CLAMP-You get 4. You need at least 10 For the RV9 DIECS4-4 120 DEGREE DIES FOR 1/8 POP RIVETS-You use a lot of CS4-4 on the skin of your elevators they are 120 degrees. For our RV10 friends RSB-12 12in back rivet set-You will need this to back rivet the stiffeners on the elevators. The RV10 will also need BBRV10 SPECIAL BUCKING BAR-You will need this for the elevators. I would buy from Avery to complete the kit from Cleaveland 575 hand seamer 3-1/2 jaw-I use this to squeezing the trailing edge of the trim tabs. 550 3/32 vise grip dimplers- several places on ribs this is needed. 150 AIR TOOL REGULATOR-This one is easier to adjust. 1046 SPEED DEBURRING AND COUNTERSINKING TOOL 23904 4 PC. HOOK AND PICK SET-You will need a pick many times for aligning skins For the RV9 42120 SPECIAL 120 DEGREE COUNTERSINK-Used where you use CS4-4 rivets on the elevators. If you buy an Avery tool kit, I would buy the RV-3,-4-6-7-8-9and -10 builders tool kit. I would subtract from the kit 1001 22in hand rivet and dimpling tool-it is there c-frame tool a good tool but see below about a c-frame tool 10765 POLYETHYLENE DIMPLING MALLET-Goes with the c-frame tool. If you get the c-frame tool get the mallet. 500 FLUTING PLIERS- You need a pair of fluting pliers I like Cleaveland's a lot better. 1042 EDGE ROLLING TOOL- I can not get this tool to work for me. It could just be me. 3507 3M RIVETING TAPE-Works well. If you use it take it off after use it is real hard to get off later. Use Scotch Removable Magic Tape works as well and much cheaper. 9885 ANGLE DRILL KIT- Nice kit not needed for the tail kit could be used later. 1054 NBR 8 SCREW COUNTERSINK CUTTER-Not needed for the tail kit. 25500 SWIVEL HEAD POP RIVET TOOL-If you must use a hand pop tool use Cleaveland's PRS-20 it is much easier to squeeze. I would add to the kit: 7760 4in NO HOLE YOKE 7755 LONGERON YOKE 811 RIVETING TAPE-Scotch removable magic tape. 1003 BOELUBE Do not drill lead without it. 200 CLECO PLIERS-One is not enough. 1661 Light deburring wheel- You get a rougher one in the kit you need both. Go to Home Depot or Lowe's and get a grinder and install these wheels. 23904 4 PC. HOOK AND PICK SET-You will need a pick many times for aligning skins. For the RV9 42120 SPECIAL 120 DEGREE COUNTERSINK-Used where you use CS4-4 rivets on the elevators. For the RV10 630 RV10 ELEVATOR BUCKING BAR I would by from Cleaveland to complete the Avery kit:. 3MP-47 Scotch-Brite pads-you will need plenty DIE509-10 #10 SCREW DIMPLE DIES-You will need these to dimple for the screws for the lead weights EF-60 EDGE FORMER-Needed at seams HS-30 OFFSET HAND SEAMER-Used many places FP-200 FLUTING PLIERS-Used to straighten ribs For the RV9 DIECS4-4 120 DEGREE DIES FOR 1/8 POP RIVETS-You use a lot of CS4-4 on the skin of your elevators they are 120 degrees. For our RV10 friends RSB-12 12in back rivet set-You will need this to back rivet the stiffeners on the elevators. Tools that would be nice to have: PNEUMATIC SQUEEZER- In my opinion a must have. Get a 214 style. Make sure to get an adjustable set holder for it. PNEUMATIC POP RIVET GUN-Go to harbor freight or such and get one for around $40.00 LIGHTWEIGHT HOSE KITS-Makes it a lot easier to handle drills and rivet guns TATCO HAND SQUEEZER WITH 2in YOKE-Makes it a lot easier to dimple all those ribs C-FRAME DIMPLER EXPERIMENTAL AERO http://www.experimentalaero.com/ I brought a DRDT-1 dimplier and installed it at Alexander Technical Center to try it out in January this year. Boy was that a mistake. There is no way I am getting it back. It is the best I have used for dimpling. It gives best dimples; it is consistent, quiet and a one man operation. There is no way I am going back to the old c-frame hammer method. Now if I need to dimple I pack up what I have and drive 32 miles even though I have a hammer c- Frame dimplier at home. It is that much better. They now sell the DRDT-2 which has some improvement over the -1. Mike Crowe ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 04:07:32 PM PST US From: "Jim Thorne" Subject: RV-List: Orndorff Videos --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Thorne" Does anyone have any of the Orndorff videos for the RV7/7A that they want to sell. Please contact me off list with the title and what you want for them. Do Not Archive Jim Thorne 7A QB CHD ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 04:39:46 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Aileron Twist From: "" --> RV-List message posted by: "" All, I am finsihing up the riveting of the left aileron. I have riveted the top side and attached the brackets. When I lay the piece flat on a bench (clecoed) to start on the bottom, I noticed that there is approx. .145" twist in it. The instructions say to weigh it down while riveting the bottom. I seriously doubt that will take care of the twist, as I can see that piece just popping back to shape after the weight is removed. Is there anything I can do to get it back to shape before riveting the bottom? Is that amount of twist excessive (it seems to be to me). Thanks, Scott 7A Wings Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 04:47:55 PM PST US From: HCRV6@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com Strangely enough I have had excellent results in getting duct tape residue as old as six years off aluminum skins with plain old denatured alcohol. The secret seems to be to wet the area with a saturated rag and give the alcohol a minute or two to soften the goo up and then wipe (well maybe scrub) it off with another saturated rag or paper towel. Naptha also works. BTW, you have to pull the cloth part of the duct tape off the glue part first and sometimes that can be a pain. Do not archive Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, final details ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 04:56:32 PM PST US From: "David Schaefer" Subject: RV-List: So. Cal RV Questions - Slightly off subject - Do not Archive --> RV-List message posted by: "David Schaefer" I have the potential of transferring to Southern California in the Yorba Linda area. What is the 'RV' climate there? Airports to keep my 6A in? Fly-in communities? Please drop me a note off-line. Regards, David Schaefer RV6-A - OFF TO PAINT SHOP! KCMO ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 05:20:38 PM PST US From: "Fred Stucklen" Subject: RV-List: Re:Solid State gyro Dynon D-10 errors --> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" It would also be interesting to know what you did with the pito & static ports when you brought your unit into the shop. The Dynon unit uses these ports for additional stabilization (instead of a GPS input)....... I've been flying a Dynon D-10 unit for over 270 Hrs, and have yet to notice (It's a backup unit) any problems... Fred Stucklen RV-6a N926RV Hi Ed I'd be interested and I'm certain that Dynon would as well to know what engines are in the planes that are experiencing these problems. As you & I both know, even the smooth rotary has it's own harmonic vibrations, however in almost 40 hours of flying my Dynon I've yet to see any errors (but I'm watching closely). I'd like to hear what engine/prop/ignition combinations are involved to see if there is a common thread. When I first received my Dynon, I brought it to work at a large mill (had to show it off to the other instrument mechanics:-) and when turned on it immediately showed a ~30 degree right bank and a ~10 degree down pitch. The error remained steady at all times within the shop at the mill. The shop is solid concrete and feels rock steady, but there was something in there that was affecting the Dynon. At home it performed flawlessly again, so I brought it back to work the next day. Same error again. At that time I began to wonder if vibration or quite possibly electromagnetic interference from all the industrial equipment was the cause. After installing it I'd pretty much forgotten about that until now. Just another bit of info to consider..... Todd Bartrim (Love my Dynon) RV9Endurance 13B Turbo Rotary C-FSTB ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 06:12:45 PM PST US From: Charlie England Subject: RV-List: Van's Air Force 'RV Hotel' list usage --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England Just heard from my neighbor that there is an RVer & wife from Dallas stranded at Bruce Campell Field near Jackson MS. I found out too late to catch them at the airport & offer assistance/lodging (they had already left for a motel). I haven't seen the following mentioned on the RV list lately so maybe it's time for a reminder & to let new arrivals know about it: http://www.vansairforce.net/rvtravelpages.htm It's a list with locations/contact numbers of RVers willing to host other RV-x travelers and/or assist with problems. Just about every state, with most major & a lot of minor cities are represented. All of us offer overnight lodging & many can offer hangar space as well. Just a reminder that help might be nearby if you need it & new friends a phone call away. Charlie flying -4, -7 wings Slobovia Outernational Airport ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 06:12:46 PM PST US From: John McMahon Subject: RV-List: Mike Seager --> RV-List message posted by: John McMahon Those that wish some check out time with Mike Seager in his new RV7 I still have some slots open Sat 18th and 17th at our Annual RV fly in at lebanon,Tn the 18th (M54) 20 miles east of Nashville... John McMahon (RV6 near paint) 615-452-8742 ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 08:10:22 PM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Refilling Compass --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com In a message dated 9/12/04 4:05:51 PM US Eastern Standard Time, kempthornes@earthlink.net writes: > Others have any ideas? We should select the best fluid before the FAA > mandates something that costs $87.07 per fill! > > Silly in Paso Robles, > > hal > Hi Hal, I posted this a few weeks ago, but here it is again: Ultra pure lamp oil from any of the Home Depot type stores. Look near the candles and that kind of stuff. This should be similar to the high grade of kerosene that the compass makers use. That's what I fly with, I'm sure the flamers will get me! Dan Hopper RV-7A (Flying 2 months now -- 43 hours) ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 08:17:29 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: RV List Great Plane!! From: smoothweasel@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com Just thinking back.......Wow!!! Got up Sat. morning and the day looked like a nice day to fly. A friend had moved from here (east mississippi ) to N. Carolina and still had a place in a hanger here. He called earlier in the week and was looking for a ride back to get hes plane. I went out my back door of the house and a few more steps brought me to the hanger. I checked over my R.C. every thing looked well. Pushed it out and climbed on board....what a nice feeling!.....went through the check list and proceeded to start the O 320. With about 2 bldes passing the plane geve a shake and the engine came to life. ( to you guys still building its a sound something like this YOU GIVE ME SOME THROTTLE AND I'M GONNA TAKE YOU SCREAMIN INTO THE AIR......) I taxi onto our private grass strip making a few s-turns thinkin how cool it is to have a tail dragger. With a short run- up cycle the prop and i'm in the air. I cruise over to Fayette Al. grab some fuel and walk up to a restaurant for a light breakfast. By this time it is about 7:15 a short walk back to the plane and i'm off again. Back in the air I climb to 9500ft above the haze and any small clouds and watch the ground speed go up to 176Kn (had a tail wind of 13kn) Thinking wow this is the way to travel. As I pass north of Atlanta the GS slows to about 164Kn the wind had become calm and stayed that way the rest of the trip. About 2hr35min after takeoff I start a 500f/m decent and in another 18min Im lookin at a 3500ft runway just south of Fayettville North Carlina. I drop in and find a guy is building a -6 on the field chat to a few guys and pick my friend up and start back. the trip back is uneventful. With the same speeds ( started about 163kn then went to about 172kn and back to 165kn the wind was in my favor all day. Just dodging a few clouds that had started to build we stop in at Pell City,Al for lunch and fuel and from there head into Miss. Drop my friend off in Abredeen Ms and then go on to the house. Do the normal fly-by(check the runway approach) then come around,Land, and push the plane in the hangar it is now 3:45 in the afternoon. MAN it was a GREAT!!!!! DAY!! all from the back yard. Yall keep poundin them rivets!! Weasel Graber -4 (75hr) Brooksville MS Get your name as your email address. Includes spam protection, 1GB storage, no ads and more Only $1.99/ month - visit http://www.mysite.com/name today! ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 09:46:02 PM PST US From: Jim Oke Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron Twist --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke Scott; After you have the bottom skin-to-spare row of rivets in, you may well find that the aileron lays flat and remains flat. Squeezing or driving rivets can cause a subtle deformation of the parts. Usually this is an undesirable thing to be avoided, in this case it may work in your favour. So, my suggestion would be to weight the aileron down, do the riveting and then see what it looks like. With some luck the twist may simply be gone. Is 0.145 in of twist too much? Well, that is a matter of opinion. Considering the rather small area of an aileron compared to a wing panel, the aerodynamic effect will probably be insignificant at the end of the day. In other words a tiny twist in the wing will more than over-compensate for the aileron twist or the aileron twist will not be noticeable compared to the wing's effect. The other consideration is simple cosmetics - will it look nice enough at fly-ins? Keep in mind that few people will be looking that closely at your ailerons - only you will really know its there. If you press on and the other 99.5 % of your airplane is perfect and the only flaw is a slight twist in an aileron, then it would be time to go back and build a new aileron. Til then simply press on. Jim Oke RV repeat offender Wpg.., MB ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: Aileron Twist > --> RV-List message posted by: "" > > > All, > > I am finsihing up the riveting of the left aileron. I have riveted the > top side and attached the brackets. When I lay the piece flat on a bench > (clecoed) to start on the bottom, I noticed that there is approx. .145" > twist in it. The instructions say to weigh it down while riveting the > bottom. I seriously doubt that will take care of the twist, as I can see > that piece just popping back to shape after the weight is removed. Is > there anything I can do to get it back to shape before riveting the > bottom? Is that amount of twist excessive (it seems to be to me). > > Thanks, > Scott > 7A Wings > > Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com > The most personalized portal on the Web! > > > ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 10:08:47 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron Twist From: "" --> RV-List message posted by: "" Thanks Jim. I appreciate the feedback. --- On Tue 09/14, Jim Oke < wjoke@shaw.ca > wrote: From: Jim Oke [mailto: wjoke@shaw.ca] Subject: Re: RV-List: Aileron Twist --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke Scott; After you have the bottom skin-to-spare row of rivets in, you may well find that the aileron lays flat and remains flat. Squeezing or driving rivets can cause a subtle deformation of the parts. Usually this is an undesirable thing to be avoided, in this case it may work in your favour. So, my suggestion would be to weight the aileron down, do the riveting and then see what it looks like. With some luck the twist may simply be gone. Is 0.145 in of twist too much? Well, that is a matter of opinion. Considering the rather small area of an aileron compared to a wing panel, the aerodynamic effect will probably be insignificant at the end of the day. In other words a tiny twist in the wing will more than over-compensate for the aileron twist or the aileron twist will not be noticeable compared to the wing's effect. The other consideration is simple cosmetics - will it look nice enough at fly-ins? Keep in mind that few people will be looking that closely at your ailerons - only you will really know its there. If you press on and the other 99.5 % of your airplane is perfect and the only flaw is a slight twist in an aileron, then it would be time to go back and build a new aileron. Til then simply press on. Jim Oke RV repeat offender Wpg.., MB ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: Aileron Twist > --> RV-List message posted by: "" > > > All, > > I am finsihing up the riveting of the left aileron. I have riveted the > top side and attached the brackets. When I lay the piece flat on a bench > (clecoed) to start on the bottom, I noticed that there is approx. .145" > twist in it. The instructions say to weigh it down while ri veting the > bottom. I seriously doubt that will take care of the twist, as I can see > that piece just popping back to shape after the weight is removed. Is > there anything I can do to get it back to shape before riveting the > bottom? Is that amount of twist excessive (it seems to be to me). > > Thanks, > Scott > 7A Wings > > Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com > The most personalized portal on the Web! > > > ================================ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web!