Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:13 AM - Re: QB Interior Paint (Charles Rowbotham)
2. 04:19 AM - Re: Why such short rivets? (Charles Rowbotham)
3. 05:06 AM - fuel return line (Greg@itmack)
4. 05:38 AM - Re: Mike Seager (Trainnut01@aol.com)
5. 05:42 AM - Re: Mike Seager (Tommy Walker)
6. 06:41 AM - Re: E-MAG ELECTRONIC IGNITION (Scott Bilinski)
7. 06:46 AM - Re: fuel return line (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
8. 07:10 AM - Grand Rapids EIS (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
9. 07:18 AM - Re: RV List Great Plane!! (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
10. 07:29 AM - aileron twist (Frazier, Vincent A)
11. 08:00 AM - Re: Grand Rapids EIS (Sims, Doug)
12. 08:02 AM - Bulk Powdered Alodine Purchase in SE Michigan Area ()
13. 08:09 AM - Re: fuel return line (Dan Checkoway)
14. 09:14 AM - Re: fuel return line (Evan and Megan Johnson)
15. 10:32 AM - Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin (Scott Vanartsdalen)
16. 01:50 PM - Re: QB Interior Paint (J. R. Dial)
17. 04:07 PM - engine hanging question (RV8ter@aol.com)
18. 04:42 PM - Re: engine hanging question (Jim Cimino)
19. 04:52 PM - Re: fuel return line (Greg@itmack)
20. 04:53 PM - Re: fuel return line (Greg@itmack)
21. 05:04 PM - Re: engine hanging question (Pat Hatch)
22. 05:08 PM - Re: engine hanging question (Dale Mitchell)
23. 05:12 PM - Re: fuel return line (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
24. 06:23 PM - Re: [ Bob Olds ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Chuck)
25. 06:52 PM - fuel return line (Martin Hone)
26. 06:57 PM - Starter woes -- PM motors (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
27. 07:09 PM - SL-40 manual (Fred Stucklen)
28. 07:40 PM - Re: SL-40 manual (Jim Jewell)
29. 08:15 PM - Re: Starter woes -- PM motors (Jim Cimino)
30. 08:32 PM - Re: SL-40 manual (Richard E. Tasker)
31. 08:51 PM - pitot lines (Greg@itmack)
32. 09:25 PM - Re: pitot lines (Richard E. Tasker)
33. 10:12 PM - Re: fuel return line (David Nelson)
34. 11:23 PM - Re: pitot lines (cgalley)
35. 11:53 PM - Re: pitot lines (Greg@itmack)
Message 1
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| Subject: | QB Interior Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Pete,
We used SunFire by Serwin Williams (a two part paint) has held up well.
Check the archives for additional postings.
Good Building,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
>Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 11:42:05 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>
>Hello,
>
>What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their QB fuselages?
>What prep did you do to the wash primer that was applied at the factory.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Pete
>
>
hthttp://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
Message 2
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| Subject: | Why such short rivets? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Eddie,
Could be mis-labeled parts. I any event I remember reading in the early 8
plans that the builder should confirm the correct rivet lenght. Good catch.
Good Building,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Michael D Crowe" <rv8a@bellsouth.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Why such short rivets?
>Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 14:01:51 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael D Crowe" <rv8a@bellsouth.net>
>
>Eddie,
>
> I work at Alexander Technical Center in Griffin Ga as an instructor for
>their RV quick start tail assembly program. I have work there for two years
>and have been involved with over 100 tail kits. This is what I have
>learned.
>If you use the Mil-Spec Mil-R-4719A as your guide the rivets listed are too
>short. See http://home.flash.net/~gila/rivet_spec/rivet_a.htm
>
>The plans call for AN470AD4-5 to join the hinge brackets HS-411BPP,
>HS-411APP and VA-146 hinge bearing. It is too short. I use AN470AD4-6
>
>The plans call for AN470AD4-6 to join all HS-609PP to HS-603PP. I use
>AN470AD4-7
>
>To join HS-412PP, HS-609PP AND HS-603PP I use AN470AD4-8
>
>To join HS-413PP to HS-603PP the listed rivet AN470AD4-5 is too long. I use
>AN470AD4-4.5
>
>The AN470AD4-4 rivets listed to join HS-603PP to HS-706 are the correct
>length
>
>I find the above to be correct for both the RV7 and RV8.
>
>Mike Crowe
>
>
>According to the plans HS609PP is supposed to be riveted to HS603PP using
>AN470AD4-6 rivets. But when I did a test fitting the rivet looked too
>short.
>
>I got out the avery gauge, and indeed it looks about 1/8" shorter than the
>Gauge says it should be.
>
>--Eddie
>
>
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 3
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| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com> |
| Subject: | fuel return line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Hi all,
I putting a fuel return line back into my tanks and since the proper aviation tubing
is so expensive and hard to get here I was wondering if normal commercial
grade aluminium tubing is satisfactory for the return lines and also the rest
of the fuel system. One thing though the commercial stuff here is metric, but
as far as I can tell only a fraction of a millimetre different. Any opions
and experiences?
Greg RV8
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
John
I'm not ready for a check ride yet, but I do plan to drive-in to your
fly-in. What's the schedule?
Carroll Jernigan
do not archive
Message 5
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Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 07:43:35 -0500
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
John, I just got back from our Van's Homecoming/Seattle trip. I was able to get
a little time with Mike in the "Old Blue" 6A while I was there. I never got "comfortable"
in the plane so, if you have a slot open on Friday the 17th pencil
me in.
Tommy in Ridgetop
----- Original Message -----
From: John McMahon<mailto:rv6@earthlink.net>
To: RV LIST<mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2004 8:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: Mike Seager
--> RV-List message posted by: John McMahon <rv6@earthlink.net<mailto:rv6@earthlink.net>>
Those that wish some check out time with Mike Seager in his new RV7
I still have some slots open Sat 18th and 17th at our Annual RV fly in
at lebanon,Tn the 18th (M54) 20 miles east of Nashville...
John McMahon (RV6 near paint)
615-452-8742
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: E-MAG ELECTRONIC IGNITION |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I had really bad popping when throttled back all the way. I found that the
idle mixture was too rich and this has reduced the popping by 50%. This was
on a injected engine.
At 06:40 PM 9/11/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
>
>You must have a constant speed prop since your producing the popping
>noise on decent. This is pretty normal and I think your thoughts about
>low backpressure and such is right on the money.
>
>CHT's seem normal for a new engine. Wait a few hours and they should
>drop. My number 3 runs at 360 in cruise and close to 400 on climbout at
>140 mhp IAS.
>
>Gary
>
>Bruno wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
> >
> >Hello All
> > I just received an e-mail from Brad Dement from E-MAG
> >Electronics who let me know about their systems. I never heard of them and I
> >was wondering if anyone has any info on this compagny and products.
> >
> >Has anyone ever saw them in Oshkosh or S & F , or actually saw or used their
> >products.
> >
> >Theirs product look from the outside a lot like a Lazar System but with a
> >few differences.
> >
> >If you wanna have a look, go to :
> >
> > <http://www.emagair.com> www.emagair.com
> >
> >Thanks for any imputs you may have
> >
> >Bruno Dionne
> >
> >C-GDBH RV-4
> >
> >rv4@videotron.ca
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 9/13/04 7:07:31 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
greg@itmack.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
>
> Hi all,
> I putting a fuel return line back into my tanks and since the proper
> aviation tubing is so expensive and hard to get here I was wondering if normal
> commercial grade aluminium tubing is satisfactory for the return lines and also
> the rest of the fuel system. One thing though the commercial stuff here is
> metric, but as far as I can tell only a fraction of a millimetre different.
Any
> opions and experiences?
>
> Greg RV8
>
>
Greg,
I don't think that the soft aluminum tubing is anything special, except that
it is probably seamless. Take a piece that you are going to use and bend it
back and forth a few times and see if, when and how it fails. If possible do
the same with some leftover tubing from Vans. If you are happy with the
results, use it.
Dan Hopper
RV7A (Flying 2 months -- about 43 hours now)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Grand Rapids EIS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
I am looking to get a right/back seat ride in a flying GRT EFIS unit in
the Atlanta area plus 200 miles
Anyone got one?
I would love to pull the trigger but NOT until I have flown with one.
Thanks
Michael Stewart
S8 Fuse
Do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RV List Great Plane!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
Don't rub it in Weasel. I am already having withdrawels knowing I will be
without a bird for a while.
Take care.
Doug
Do Not Archive
Message 10
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
Scott,
Drill out the pop rivets that close the aileron, put a small shim, say
063, under the corner that causes an opposite twist. Weight the aileron
down on your flat table and re-rivet everything. Run a drill through
the holes if needed.
We have fixed several using this technique. Works great.
Vince Frazier
F-1H Rocket, N540VF
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
All,
I am finsihing up the riveting of the left aileron. I have riveted the
top side
and attached the brackets. When I lay the piece flat on a bench
(clecoed) to
start on the bottom, I noticed that there is approx. .145" twist in it.
The
instructions say to weigh it down while riveting the bottom. I
seriously doubt
that will take care of the twist, as I can see that piece just popping
back
to shape after the weight is removed. Is there anything I can do to get
it back
to shape before riveting the bottom? Is that amount of twist excessive
(it
seems to be to me).
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
Message 11
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| Subject: | Grand Rapids EIS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Sims, Doug" <Doug.Sims@danahermotion.com>
Does anybody know if Permatex #2 high temp pipe compound is fuel compatible?
Alternatives? Do I even need anything with AN fittings?
RV8QB
Next step is hanging the engine.
-----Original Message-----
From: Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) [mailto:mstewart@iss.net]
Subject: RV-List: Grand Rapids EIS
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
I am looking to get a right/back seat ride in a flying GRT EFIS unit in
the Atlanta area plus 200 miles
Anyone got one?
I would love to pull the trigger but NOT until I have flown with one.
Thanks
Michael Stewart
S8 Fuse
Do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Bulk Powdered Alodine Purchase in SE Michigan Area |
--> RV-List message posted by: <pwiethe@charter.net>
I'm trying to find others in the Southeast Michigan area who would be interested
in going in on a bulk powdered alodine purchase. Henkel Technologies is located
in Warren, MI, and I have a quote from them for their Alodine 1200S powder.
The minimum quantity they sell is a 60lb drum. The price is $13.44/lb for 1 drum,
$12.86/lb for 2-3 drums, and $10.94/lb for 4 or more drums. The mixing ratio
is 6.3lbs per 100 gallons, so 1 lb of the powder will make 15.87 gallons.
This comes out to $0.84 per gallon using the 1 drum price! I wouldn't think
I would need more than 5 lbs or so.
I there is enough interest, I would be willing to purchase and pick up the drum(s).
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Phil
RV-8A - Working on slow-build fuselage
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Since when is "proper aviation tubing" so expensive? It's like a buck a
foot.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: fuel return line
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
>
> Hi all,
> I putting a fuel return line back into my tanks and since the proper
aviation tubing is so expensive and hard to get here I was wondering if
normal commercial grade aluminium tubing is satisfactory for the return
lines and also the rest of the fuel system. One thing though the commercial
stuff here is metric, but as far as I can tell only a fraction of a
millimetre different. Any opions and experiences?
>
> Greg RV8
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Hey Greg, where are you? If you just want the 1/4" vent line stuff, its
cheap and I have a bunch of extra you can have. How much do you require?
More interesting is the question of why you are putting in a return line.
Are you powering your 8 with something special ? inquiring minds....
Evan
(530)351-1776
www.evansaviationproducts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: fuel return line
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
>
> Hi all,
> I putting a fuel return line back into my tanks and since the proper
aviation tubing is so expensive and hard to get here I was wondering if
normal commercial grade aluminium tubing is satisfactory for the return
lines and also the rest of the fuel system. One thing though the commercial
stuff here is metric, but as far as I can tell only a fraction of a
millimetre different. Any opions and experiences?
>
> Greg RV8
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: getting duct tape off Aluminum Skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I use coleman lantern fuel. Takes it right off.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 16
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| Subject: | QB Interior Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
If you want to use rattle cans I used Sherwin Williams self
etching primer and gray propeller paint. It seems to work pretty well
and cheap too. I used the same on the panel.
Good Luck.
Dick Dial
RV6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles
Rowbotham
Subject: RE: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
<crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Pete,
We used SunFire by Serwin Williams (a two part paint) has held up well.
Check the archives for additional postings.
Good Building,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
>Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 11:42:05 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Pete Howell"
<pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>
>Hello,
>
>What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their QB
fuselages?
>What prep did you do to the wash primer that was applied at the
factory.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Pete
>
>
hthttp://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
==
==
==
==
Message 17
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| Subject: | engine hanging question |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
I've never seen this done so I'm sure I'm overlooking something. What's
wrong with attaching the alternator, prop governor and anything else you can onto
the engine, including the engine mount and then putting that whole assembly
onto the fuse at one time?
It's an IO-360-A1B6D.
Also, I can't see the bottom of the engine well while it's on the pallet but
is there usually something on the bottom I would have to plug up so I can
pickle the engine?
thanks,
lucky
do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: engine hanging question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
Nothing wrong with doing it that way...it is mostly preference. As far as
plugs on the bottom, you have a drain plug or two and most everything else
should already be closed. Watch for where the oil sending unit will hook up
and make sure it is plugged.
Jim
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
125+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: engine hanging question
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> I've never seen this done so I'm sure I'm overlooking something. What's
> wrong with attaching the alternator, prop governor and anything else you
> can onto
> the engine, including the engine mount and then putting that whole
> assembly
> onto the fuse at one time?
>
> It's an IO-360-A1B6D.
>
> Also, I can't see the bottom of the engine well while it's on the pallet
> but
> is there usually something on the bottom I would have to plug up so I can
> pickle the engine?
>
> thanks,
> lucky
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Thanks for your offer but I've got enough 1/4" vent line. I'm in Australia
and I'm seriously thinking about putting a rotary into my 8. I know
everyone says that fuel return lines aren't needed for Lycomings but they do
seem to be needed for other engines, so I thought I'd at least install the
line into the tank and if I don't use it I can cap it off. If anyone can
explain why some engines need returns to the tanks and others don't I'd be
interested. For instance I was told that continentals need returns to the
tanks while Lycos just join up to the fuel line again before the pump.
As an expert in fuel tanks I wonder if you could give some tips. When I
drilled out the filler cap flange the cap was perfectly centred and after I
riveted it the cap is now off to one side, not enough to affect operation I
think but just enough to annoy me as the proud builder. I took into account
the slight curve of the flange when I mounted it and I got the orientation
the same when I riveted it on. I spoke to another local builder and he had
the same thing happen to him. I still have another tank to build so I would
like to get that one perfect.
Thanks
Greg RV8 wings
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> Hey Greg, where are you? If you just want the 1/4" vent line stuff, its
> cheap and I have a bunch of extra you can have. How much do you require?
> More interesting is the question of why you are putting in a return line.
> Are you powering your 8 with something special ? inquiring minds....
> Evan
> (530)351-1776
> www.evansaviationproducts.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <RV-8@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RV-List: fuel return line
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
> >
> > Hi all,
> > I putting a fuel return line back into my tanks and since the proper
> aviation tubing is so expensive and hard to get here I was wondering if
> normal commercial grade aluminium tubing is satisfactory for the return
> lines and also the rest of the fuel system. One thing though the
commercial
> stuff here is metric, but as far as I can tell only a fraction of a
> millimetre different. Any opions and experiences?
> >
> > Greg RV8
> >
> >
>
>
Message 20
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| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
When your in Oz.
$10/ft
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Since when is "proper aviation tubing" so expensive? It's like a buck a
> foot.
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <RV-8@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RV-List: fuel return line
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
> >
> > Hi all,
> > I putting a fuel return line back into my tanks and since the proper
> aviation tubing is so expensive and hard to get here I was wondering if
> normal commercial grade aluminium tubing is satisfactory for the return
> lines and also the rest of the fuel system. One thing though the
commercial
> stuff here is metric, but as far as I can tell only a fraction of a
> millimetre different. Any opions and experiences?
> >
> > Greg RV8
> >
> >
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: engine hanging question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Nothing wrong with this, just be aware that you need the weight of the
engine, on the conical mounts at least, to get the last two bolts in. I
mounted the engine on the fuselage, then removed the engine/mount combo to
finish up some of the firewall details. Makes the baffle kit installation a
lot easier too. Final triming of the baffles will require that the engine
be in place, of course.
Pat Hatch
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: engine hanging question
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> I've never seen this done so I'm sure I'm overlooking something. What's
> wrong with attaching the alternator, prop governor and anything else you
can onto
> the engine, including the engine mount and then putting that whole
assembly
> onto the fuse at one time?
>
> It's an IO-360-A1B6D.
>
> Also, I can't see the bottom of the engine well while it's on the pallet
but
> is there usually something on the bottom I would have to plug up so I can
> pickle the engine?
>
> thanks,
> lucky
> do not archive
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: engine hanging question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
before installing it.
Here is a link to engine hanging.
http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/IllustratedGuideToEngineHanging/enginehanging.htm
Dale RV8A MN
--- RV8ter@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> I've never seen this done so I'm sure I'm
> overlooking something. What's
> wrong with attaching the alternator, prop governor
> and anything else you can onto
> the engine, including the engine mount and then
> putting that whole assembly
> onto the fuse at one time?
>
> It's an IO-360-A1B6D.
>
> Also, I can't see the bottom of the engine well
> while it's on the pallet but
> is there usually something on the bottom I would
> have to plug up so I can
> pickle the engine?
>
> thanks,
> lucky
> do not archive
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 9/13/04 6:53:18 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
greg@itmack.com writes:
> As an expert in fuel tanks I wonder if you could give some tips. When I
> drilled out the filler cap flange the cap was perfectly centred and after I
> riveted it the cap is now off to one side, not enough to affect operation I
> think but just enough to annoy me as the proud builder. I took into account
> the slight curve of the flange when I mounted it and I got the orientation
> the same when I riveted it on. I spoke to another local builder and he had
> the same thing happen to him. I still have another tank to build so I would
> like to get that one perfect.
>
> Thanks
> Greg RV8 wings
>
>
Hi Greg,
Could you have rotated the flange after first drilling it to the tank? 180
degrees would double any error. Just a guess.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Flying 2 months now)
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: [ Bob Olds ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chuck <chuck515tigger@yahoo.com>
Hey Bob,
Your VG's look like my VG's (Larry Vetterman VG's) but yours appear to be mounted
a little further aft than mine. How far aft of the leading edge are your VG's...
and can you submit another photo from a different angle? Thanks,
Chuck
Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bob Olds
Lists: RV-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
Subject: Vortex generators on RV-4
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Oldsfolks@aol.com.09.11.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
---------------------------------
Message 25
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| Subject: | fuel return line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
Hi Greg,
I can sympathise with you regarding the outrageous costs of items that the
Yanks take for granted. Nevertheless, I would be wary about substituting an
unknown al. tubing in something as critical as the fuel system. The best
way might be to you get a roll of 3/8" tubing from Van's and have it added
to someone's crate that is about to be shipped to Oz. There is a constant
stream of stuff being shipped each week.
As far as a return line is concerned, I think you will find that fuel
injected engines often run a return line back to the tank, but not so
carburated engines.
Having said that, people with carb engines can route a return line that is
supposed to remove bubbles between the mechanical fuel pump and the carby
inlet, back to the tank. This is referred to as a vapour return line and
seems to be recommended when using mogas due to its lower Reid Vapour
Pressure, or its propensity to "boil" due to elevated temperatures and lower
pressures that occur due to engine heat on the ground, and when flying at
altitude.
I am no expert, but I put one in my carburated Lycoming-powered RV-6 in case
I used unleaded fuel in the future.
Hope this helps
Martin in Oz
Message 26
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| Subject: | Starter woes -- PM motors |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Fellow listers,
This was a hot topic a few weeks ago, and it has been on my mind since then.
I have a question about PM starters which I will ask after a little
background.
Several years ago my nephew had a Saab 99 which had 2 electric fans. This
car was notorious for cracking cylinder heads. After he gave it to my stepson
and I overhauled the engine, I finally figured out why it had gone through so
many aluminum heads. The 2 fans were on the same 20 amp fuse and each fan
alone was drawing 20 amps! The fans ran fine but they just roared -- running much
faster than they should and drawing more current than they should. I finally
fixed the problem (temporarily) by putting each fan on its own fuse, and my
stepson drove the car for 4 more years before he finally traded it in.
Recently our treadmill motor started running hotter than normal. I now have
to take the cover off the motor compartment in order for the thermal cutoff to
stay on. My guess is that the motor is drawing more current than normal
because the permanent magnets are getting weak.
I am guessing that the same thing happens to the Skytech starters (one of
which is on my plane).
I think what is happening is that the magnets get weak and then the PM motor
draws more current than "normal." The motor then runs faster than "normal" at
the design voltage in order to generate enough counter emf. This would
account for the solenoids failing, instead of the motor. I am an electrical
engineer, but motors are not my specialty.
Here is my question. Is there a way to "recharge" the magnets in the starter
to bring them back up to original strength? What is the mechanism by which
these magnets weaken? There must be some motor or magnet experts reading this
list. Any suggestions on how to extend the life of these PM motors?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Flying for about 2 months -- about 43 hours)
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1@cox.net>
Does anybody have an electronic copy (.PDF) of an SL-40 installation
manual. I'm trying to help out a friend install a used radio in his
plane, and can't get one from the Garmin site.....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: SL-40 manual |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Fred,
I could scan my hard copy and send it, if push comes to shove.
Jim in Kelowna do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: SL-40 manual
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1@cox.net>
>
> Does anybody have an electronic copy (.PDF) of an SL-40 installation
> manual. I'm trying to help out a friend install a used radio in his
> plane, and can't get one from the Garmin site.....
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A N926RV
>
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Starter woes -- PM motors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
I am no expect on electricity, but I teach Automotive Technology and have
played a lot with permanent magnet devices (starters, window motors). What
I have found on cars is that the commutator on the armature gets rough after
a while. What I usually do is turn the commutator and install new brushes,
this has fixed every starter I have tried it on. I have not tried it on a
Sky Tech though, but poor connections will cause high amperage draw.
(brushes to commutator)
Jim
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
100+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Starter woes -- PM motors
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> This was a hot topic a few weeks ago, and it has been on my mind since
> then.
> I have a question about PM starters which I will ask after a little
> background.
>
> Several years ago my nephew had a Saab 99 which had 2 electric fans. This
> car was notorious for cracking cylinder heads. After he gave it to my
> stepson
> and I overhauled the engine, I finally figured out why it had gone through
> so
> many aluminum heads. The 2 fans were on the same 20 amp fuse and each fan
> alone was drawing 20 amps! The fans ran fine but they just roared --
> running much
> faster than they should and drawing more current than they should. I
> finally
> fixed the problem (temporarily) by putting each fan on its own fuse, and
> my
> stepson drove the car for 4 more years before he finally traded it in.
>
> Recently our treadmill motor started running hotter than normal. I now
> have
> to take the cover off the motor compartment in order for the thermal
> cutoff to
> stay on. My guess is that the motor is drawing more current than normal
> because the permanent magnets are getting weak.
>
> I am guessing that the same thing happens to the Skytech starters (one of
> which is on my plane).
>
> I think what is happening is that the magnets get weak and then the PM
> motor
> draws more current than "normal." The motor then runs faster than
> "normal" at
> the design voltage in order to generate enough counter emf. This would
> account for the solenoids failing, instead of the motor. I am an
> electrical
> engineer, but motors are not my specialty.
>
> Here is my question. Is there a way to "recharge" the magnets in the
> starter
> to bring them back up to original strength? What is the mechanism by
> which
> these magnets weaken? There must be some motor or magnet experts reading
> this
> list. Any suggestions on how to extend the life of these PM motors?
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (Flying for about 2 months -- about 43 hours)
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: SL-40 manual |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
I have all the SL40 manuals (installation, operating, service, all
pdf). I downloaded all of them right after Garmin purchased UPSAT for
just this reason!
I have three installation manuals for different vintages (1997, 1999,
2003). What vintage is the radio and where do I email it?
Please either specify which one you want or that you want all of them
(about 4 MB) and if you want the operating and service manuals as well.
Dick Tasker
Fred Stucklen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1@cox.net>
>
>Does anybody have an electronic copy (.PDF) of an SL-40 installation
>manual. I'm trying to help out a friend install a used radio in his
>plane, and can't get one from the Garmin site.....
>
>Fred Stucklen
>RV-6A N926RV
>
>
Message 31
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|
| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Does changing the diameter of the tubing from the pitot tube affect readings that
instruments give? eg. pitot tube such as Dynon uses 3/16" then I convert that
to 1/4" tubing to run through the wings and then back to whatever size plastic
tubing that the instruments require. Doesn't changing the diameter change
the pressure and thus the reading on the instrument.
Regards
Greg RV8 wings
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Only if you have lots of flow through the tubing does pressure change
with diameter. Hopefully you do not so the tubing size matters little.
Of course if you use tubing that is too large you will have slow
response since the small pitot or static port holes have to change the
pressure in the large volume of the tubes.
Dick Tasker
Greg@itmack wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
>
>Does changing the diameter of the tubing from the pitot tube affect readings that
instruments give? eg. pitot tube such as Dynon uses 3/16" then I convert
that to 1/4" tubing to run through the wings and then back to whatever size plastic
tubing that the instruments require. Doesn't changing the diameter change
the pressure and thus the reading on the instrument.
>
>Regards
>Greg RV8 wings
>
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Nelson <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi Greg,
I ran into the same problem on my 1st tank - just enough to notice but not
enough to keep it from working. I made sure to key the assembly so that it
would assemble the same way. I used large vice-grips to keep everything in
place while drilling, too.
Regards,
/\/elson
Austin, TX
RV-7A - left wing/tank
On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 9/13/04 6:53:18 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> greg@itmack.com writes:
>
> > As an expert in fuel tanks I wonder if you could give some tips. When I
> > drilled out the filler cap flange the cap was perfectly centred and after I
> > riveted it the cap is now off to one side, not enough to affect operation I
> > think but just enough to annoy me as the proud builder. I took into account
> > the slight curve of the flange when I mounted it and I got the orientation
> > the same when I riveted it on. I spoke to another local builder and he had
> > the same thing happen to him. I still have another tank to build so I would
> > like to get that one perfect.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Greg RV8 wings
Message 34
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Simple answer is NO!
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: pitot lines
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
>
> Does changing the diameter of the tubing from the pitot tube affect
readings that instruments give? eg. pitot tube such as Dynon uses 3/16"
then I convert that to 1/4" tubing to run through the wings and then back to
whatever size plastic tubing that the instruments require. Doesn't changing
the diameter change the pressure and thus the reading on the instrument.
>
> Regards
> Greg RV8 wings
>
>
Message 35
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| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Thanks
>
> Simple answer is NO!
>
> Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
> Safety Programs Editor - TC
> EAA Sport Pilot
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: pitot lines
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
> >
> > Does changing the diameter of the tubing from the pitot tube affect
> readings that instruments give? eg. pitot tube such as Dynon uses 3/16"
> then I convert that to 1/4" tubing to run through the wings and then back
to
> whatever size plastic tubing that the instruments require. Doesn't
changing
> the diameter change the pressure and thus the reading on the instrument.
> >
> > Regards
> > Greg RV8 wings
> >
> >
>
>
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