Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:11 AM - Wanted...rv-8 instrument panel in visio (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
2. 04:50 AM - Re: Wanted...rv-8 instrument panel in visio (linn walters)
3. 05:15 AM - Re: QB Interior Paint (Sims, Doug)
4. 05:22 AM - Re: Wanted...rv-8 instrument panel in visio (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
5. 06:17 AM - to polyfuse.... or not (Rick Galati)
6. 07:12 AM - VAL AVionics INS422 (Al Grajek)
7. 07:41 AM - Re: fuel return line (Evan and Megan Johnson)
8. 07:47 AM - Re: fuel return line (Jerry Grimmonpre)
9. 07:59 AM - H.R. 5035 (tamccarthy)
10. 08:14 AM - Re: QB Interior Paint (Paul Besing)
11. 10:01 AM - Re: fuel return line (David E. Nelson)
12. 01:21 PM - Re: to polyfuse.... or not (Dave Bristol)
13. 01:36 PM - Re: H.R. 5035 (RV8ter@aol.com)
14. 02:00 PM - Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] Reno news, For those interested. (Eric Parlow)
15. 03:18 PM - Re: to polyfuse.... or not (James E. Clark)
16. 03:44 PM - Re: to polyfuse.... or not (Hal / Carol Kempthorne)
17. 04:16 PM - Re : fuel return line (Martin Hone)
18. 05:12 PM - Re: to polyfuse.... or not (cgalley)
19. 05:45 PM - FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 (WFACT01@aol.com)
20. 06:51 PM - Re: SL-40, et. al. manuals (Richard E. Tasker)
21. 07:27 PM - Re: to polyfuse.... or not (Chris W)
22. 08:27 PM - Re: to polyfuse.... or not (James E. Clark)
23. 08:30 PM - King KN53 Coax wiring - J531, J533 Question (DonEavesRV6)
24. 08:34 PM - Re: to polyfuse.... or not (Vanremog@aol.com)
25. 09:48 PM - RV-6 for sale (Dan Checkoway)
26. 11:06 PM - Re: to polyfuse.... or not (rv6tc)
27. 11:26 PM - Re: to polyfuse.... or not (JOHN STARN)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Wanted...rv-8 instrument panel in visio |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Looking for the rv-8 panel in a vision file so I can build my panel.
Please fwd to me. If you happen to have done some instruments as well
Ill take em.
Oh and Bill Vondane, thanks for putting up the visio electrical files.
Saves me a butt load of time in design!
His wiring diagrams here:
http://www.rv8a.com/wiring/dwg/rev6/N8wv_wire_r6.vsd
Thanks
Michael Stewart
S8 panel
Do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Wanted...rv-8 instrument panel in visio |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Mike, what is Visio? Not familiar with it.
Linn
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
>
>Looking for the rv-8 panel in a vision file so I can build my panel.
>
>Please fwd to me. If you happen to have done some instruments as well
>Ill take em.
>
>Oh and Bill Vondane, thanks for putting up the visio electrical files.
>Saves me a butt load of time in design!
>
>His wiring diagrams here:
>http://www.rv8a.com/wiring/dwg/rev6/N8wv_wire_r6.vsd
>
>Thanks
>
>Michael Stewart
>
>S8 panel
>
>Do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | QB Interior Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Sims, Doug" <Doug.Sims@danahermotion.com>
I used Cardinal rattle cans that are the same color as Vans powder coat on
the Panel. Rustoleum battleship grey on the interior. Looks good and aheres
well to S&H primer.
-----Original Message-----
From: J. R. Dial [mailto:jrdial@hal-pc.org]
Subject: RE: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
If you want to use rattle cans I used Sherwin Williams self
etching primer and gray propeller paint. It seems to work pretty well
and cheap too. I used the same on the panel.
Good Luck.
Dick Dial
RV6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles
Rowbotham
Subject: RE: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
<crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Pete,
We used SunFire by Serwin Williams (a two part paint) has held up well.
Check the archives for additional postings.
Good Building,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
>Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 11:42:05 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Pete Howell"
<pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
>
>Hello,
>
>What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their QB
fuselages?
>What prep did you do to the wash primer that was applied at the
factory.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Pete
>
>
hthttp://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
==
==
==
==
Message 4
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| Subject: | Wanted...rv-8 instrument panel in visio |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Here is Microsoft's Description.
"Visio 2003 is a diagramming program that can help you create business
and technical diagrams that document and organize complex ideas,
processes, and systems. Diagrams created in Visio 2003 enable you to
visualize and communicate information clearly, concisely, and
effectively in ways that text and numbers cannot. Visio 2003 also
automates data visualization by synchronizing directly with data sources
to provide up-to-date diagrams, and it can be customized to meet the
needs of your organization."
It is used for drawing and diagramming. It is not a CAD program, but
similar in that you have objects available to you and can make anything
from electrical diagrams, landscaping sketches, office layouts,
flowcharts, Organizational charts, Maps, block diagrams, Project
schedules, network topologies and so forth. What makes this a nice
program is that you don't have to be an engineer to use it. I was
trained on CAD in college, never used it, forgot more than I learned,
and have settled on this program later in life as an easy to use program
to accomplish everything I would need.
Not cheap. But that's what work expense reports are for. As long as I
keep making my office org charts with it, I can make my Super 8
electrical designs with it too:)
You can d/l a trial version and read more here:
http://www.microsoft.com/office/visio/prodinfo/overview.mspx
Must be an ungodly size though.
Enjoy,
Mike Stewart
S8 fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wanted...rv-8 instrument panel in visio
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Mike, what is Visio? Not familiar with it.
Linn
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
>
>Looking for the rv-8 panel in a vision file so I can build my panel.
>
>Please fwd to me. If you happen to have done some instruments as well
>Ill take em.
>
>Oh and Bill Vondane, thanks for putting up the visio electrical files.
>Saves me a butt load of time in design!
>
>His wiring diagrams here:
>http://www.rv8a.com/wiring/dwg/rev6/N8wv_wire_r6.vsd
>
>Thanks
>
>Michael Stewart
>
>S8 panel
>
>Do not archive
>
>
>
>
==
==
==
==
Message 5
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| Subject: | to polyfuse.... or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Wiring chores are not exactly my strong suit. So here goes. It is recommended
that the comm side of a Garmin 430 go through a 10 amp breaker or fuse. I have
an EXP-2V installed and the highest rated "polyfuse" on the avionics bus is
7 amps. According to Control Vision maker of the EXP-2V, " a 9 amp polyfuse
circuit is roughly comparable to a 14 amp fuse or breaker. The above fuse sizes
are a good match for most for most sport aircraft, your project will probably
work well with this configuration."
Sooooo.....marketing literature aside, is it acceptable to wire the comm through
the 7 amp polyfuse on the EXP-2V? Comments please, especially those with real
time experience with such a setup.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
Message 6
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vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | VAL AVionics INS422 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
Has anyboby had any experience with the INS 422 Nav? It has VOR/LOC, Glige
slope and Marker beacons all in aone 3"unit. I am looking for a low cost way
to go IFR. Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Al Grajek
RV8A
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
I do happen to have a good tip for keeping the fuel cap centered. I learned
this one from Don London who built the tanks for many years before me. What
he taught me to do is to cover the fuel tank opening on the outside of the
tank skin with clear packaging tape. Then you take the tank flange with the
cap locked into it and stick the whole works to the tape from the inside of
the tank. The cap will stick to the tape and give you a perfect reference
line between it and the skin. If its not centered just pull it off and try
again. When satisified, drill one hole and cleco...then do one on the other
side of the flange etc....You will have to hold tight to the cap and flange
so you dont just shove it off with your drill. This is an excellent time to
have some band aids handy because there is a better than average chance of
drilling your hand...just be careful :) It is best to do this with the tank
completely unassembled. I just stand the tank skin up on its inboard end and
stand in front of it when I drill. Make sure you get the contour on the
flange pointing the right direction and mark it with a sharpie so you can
get it back in the same orientation when you rivet. Hope this helps, it
works well for me.
Cheers...Evan
www.evansaviationproducts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: fuel return line
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
>
> Thanks for your offer but I've got enough 1/4" vent line. I'm in
Australia
> and I'm seriously thinking about putting a rotary into my 8. I know
> everyone says that fuel return lines aren't needed for Lycomings but they
do
> seem to be needed for other engines, so I thought I'd at least install the
> line into the tank and if I don't use it I can cap it off. If anyone can
> explain why some engines need returns to the tanks and others don't I'd be
> interested. For instance I was told that continentals need returns to the
> tanks while Lycos just join up to the fuel line again before the pump.
>
> As an expert in fuel tanks I wonder if you could give some tips. When I
> drilled out the filler cap flange the cap was perfectly centred and after
I
> riveted it the cap is now off to one side, not enough to affect operation
I
> think but just enough to annoy me as the proud builder. I took into
account
> the slight curve of the flange when I mounted it and I got the orientation
> the same when I riveted it on. I spoke to another local builder and he
had
> the same thing happen to him. I still have another tank to build so I
would
> like to get that one perfect.
>
> Thanks
> Greg RV8 wings
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> >
> > Hey Greg, where are you? If you just want the 1/4" vent line stuff, its
> > cheap and I have a bunch of extra you can have. How much do you require?
> > More interesting is the question of why you are putting in a return
line.
> > Are you powering your 8 with something special ? inquiring minds....
> > Evan
> > (530)351-1776
> > www.evansaviationproducts.com
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <RV-8@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: fuel return line
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
> > >
> > > Hi all,
> > > I putting a fuel return line back into my tanks and since the proper
> > aviation tubing is so expensive and hard to get here I was wondering if
> > normal commercial grade aluminium tubing is satisfactory for the return
> > lines and also the rest of the fuel system. One thing though the
> commercial
> > stuff here is metric, but as far as I can tell only a fraction of a
> > millimetre different. Any opions and experiences?
> > >
> > > Greg RV8
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
Hey Martin ...
What type of valve did you use in your return line?
Thanks ...
Jerry Grimmonpre RV7A QB
> I am no expert, but I put one in my carburated Lycoming-powered RV-6 in
case
> I used unleaded fuel in the future.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Martin in Oz
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: tamccarthy <tamccarthy@zoomtown.com>
HERE IS A RESPONSE ON HR 5035 FROM MY CONGRESSMAN:
Introduced by Rep. Anthony Weiner (D-NY), H.R. 5035
would require the Department of Homeland Security to promulgate
and enforce rules to ensure private aircraft companies provide the
same passenger and property screening as is required of the major
air carriers. H.R. 5035 has been referred to the House
Transportation and Infrastructure Committee for consideration.
However, there is little support for the bill, and I do not anticipate
action being taken on it.
tamccarthy
e-mail: tamccarthy@zoomtown.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | QB Interior Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <azpilot@extremezone.com>
www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Click on "Paint"
Paul Besing
Quoting "Sims, Doug" <Doug.Sims@danahermotion.com>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Sims, Doug" <Doug.Sims@danahermotion.com>
>
> I used Cardinal rattle cans that are the same color as Vans powder coat on
> the Panel. Rustoleum battleship grey on the interior. Looks good and aheres
> well to S&H primer.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: J. R. Dial [mailto:jrdial@hal-pc.org]
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
>
>
> If you want to use rattle cans I used Sherwin Williams self
> etching primer and gray propeller paint. It seems to work pretty well
> and cheap too. I used the same on the panel.
> Good Luck.
> Dick Dial
> RV6
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles
> Rowbotham
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
> <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
>
> Pete,
>
> We used SunFire by Serwin Williams (a two part paint) has held up well.
> Check the archives for additional postings.
>
> Good Building,
>
> Chuck Rowbotham
> RV-8A
>
>
> >From: "Pete Howell" <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: QB Interior Paint
> >Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2004 11:42:05 -0500
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Pete Howell"
> <pete.howell@gecko-group.com>
> >
> >Hello,
> >
> >What has everyone been using to paint the interior of their QB
> fuselages?
> >What prep did you do to the wash primer that was applied at the
> factory.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Pete
> >
> >
>
> hthttp://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: fuel return line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Excellent idea, Evan!
do not archive
Thanks!
/\/elson
On Tue, 14 Sep 2004, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> I do happen to have a good tip for keeping the fuel cap centered. I learned
> this one from Don London who built the tanks for many years before me. What
> he taught me to do is to cover the fuel tank opening on the outside of the
> tank skin with clear packaging tape. Then you take the tank flange with the
> cap locked into it and stick the whole works to the tape from the inside of
> the tank. The cap will stick to the tape and give you a perfect reference
> line between it and the skin. If its not centered just pull it off and try
> again. When satisified, drill one hole and cleco...then do one on the other
> side of the flange etc....You will have to hold tight to the cap and flange
> so you dont just shove it off with your drill. This is an excellent time to
> have some band aids handy because there is a better than average chance of
> drilling your hand...just be careful :) It is best to do this with the tank
> completely unassembled. I just stand the tank skin up on its inboard end and
> stand in front of it when I drill. Make sure you get the contour on the
> flange pointing the right direction and mark it with a sharpie so you can
> get it back in the same orientation when you rivet. Hope this helps, it
> works well for me.
>
> Cheers...Evan
> www.evansaviationproducts.com
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: to polyfuse.... or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
> According to Control Vision maker of the EXP-2V, " a 9 amp polyfuse circuit
is roughly comparable to a 14 amp fuse or breaker.
>
I'd sure like to see the math on this one. After 45 years in electronics
I thought that "9 amps" was "9 amps" not 14 amps. (Political correctness
perhaps?) Could someone please enlighten me? 8>)
Dave Bristol RV6 So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
I don't see where he takes a direct stand and tells you how he exactly feels
though, does he? He could have written that replay that way even if he was
also the one that introduced it.
do not archive
In a message dated 9/14/2004 11:00:38 AM Eastern Standard Time,
tamccarthy@zoomtown.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: tamccarthy <tamccarthy@zoomtown.com>
HERE IS A RESPONSE ON HR 5035 FROM MY CONGRESSMAN:
Introduced by Rep. Anthony Weiner (D-NY), H.R. 5035
would require the Department of Homeland Security to promulgate
and enforce rules to ensure private aircraft companies provide the
same passenger and property screening as is required of the major
air carriers. H.R. 5035 has been referred to the House
Transportation and Infrastructure Committee for consideration.
However, there is little support for the bill, and I do not anticipate
action being taken on it.
tamccarthy
e-mail: tamccarthy@zoomtown.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Reno news, For those interested. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow@hotmail.com>
I'll be at Reno Sat & Sun.
Are there any activities planned for the RV builders/owners?
ERic--
RV8 wings
(828) 777-7976
Message 15
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| Subject: | to polyfuse.... or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
We had an SL-40 (COM) and now have an SL-30 (NAV/COM) connected to the NAV1
"port" of an EXP-BUS.
In almost 2 years and 370+ hours, we have had no problems.
I **think** it is listed as having an 8 watt amp with the 430 having a 10
watt amp. The 430A is listed as having a 16 watt amp. Of couse this does not
factor in the antenna loss etc and therefore says little about the ACTUAL
current draw. That you will have to find in the more detailed specs.
Again, our SL30 works ... your mileage may vary.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick Galati
> Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 9:16 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: to polyfuse.... or not
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
>
> Wiring chores are not exactly my strong suit. So here goes. It
> is recommended that the comm side of a Garmin 430 go through a 10
> amp breaker or fuse. I have an EXP-2V installed and the highest
> rated "polyfuse" on the avionics bus is 7 amps. According to
> Control Vision maker of the EXP-2V, " a 9 amp polyfuse circuit
> is roughly comparable to a 14 amp fuse or breaker. The above fuse
> sizes are a good match for most for most sport aircraft, your
> project will probably work well with this configuration."
>
> Sooooo.....marketing literature aside, is it acceptable to wire
> the comm through the 7 amp polyfuse on the EXP-2V? Comments
> please, especially those with real time experience with such a setup.
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: to polyfuse.... or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Dave, these might be BUSH amps, where some of them never even show up. ;-)
Another reason to avoid this system maybe as you believe you have
protection for a wire capable of handling 10 amps. But the polyfuse is not
going to pop at 9 amps but rather allow damage to the wire by admitting 14
amps.
>I thought that "9 amps" was "9 amps" not 14 amps. (Political correctness
>perhaps?) Could someone please enlighten me? 8>)
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re : fuel return line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
Hi Jerry,
I'll explain in a little more detail. I ran my engine fuel supply line from
the selector valve to a wing root-mounted gascolator, then Facet boost pump,
also in the wing root then to a T fitting on the firewall. One side goes to
the engine-driven pump and the other side goes to the primer solenoid valve.
( Hit the boost pump button, then the primer switch - instant start) On the
engine-driven pump outlet fitting, I have a smaller piggy-back fitting with
a restrictor that routes back to the left hand tank. This is supposed to
take the bubbles away before they get to the carb. A small ball valve allow
me to turn off the return line.
Having installed this sytem, I have had no reason to use it for its intended
purpose - that is, eliminating vapour lock. Even in 40 degree C temps.
May well be different if I was using mogas.
Hope this helps
Martin in Oz
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: to polyfuse.... or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Maybe they are Kerry amps and it depends which day you use them!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hal / Carol Kempthorne" <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: to polyfuse.... or not
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne
<kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> Dave, these might be BUSH amps, where some of them never even show up.
;-)
>
> Another reason to avoid this system maybe as you believe you have
> protection for a wire capable of handling 10 amps. But the polyfuse is
not
> going to pop at 9 amps but rather allow damage to the wire by admitting 14
> amps.
>
> >I thought that "9 amps" was "9 amps" not 14 amps. (Political correctness
> >perhaps?) Could someone please enlighten me? 8>)
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
> PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com
September 14th: The long awaited first flight of the Whelan Super 8 took
place at 13:15 in Bethlehem, CT. The aircraft performed flawlessly. Too bad we
won't make Reno this year. Many thanks to all who helped make this moment
possible, especially, Bill Benedict whose great friendship and eternal faith in
this
project will never be forgotten. Special thanks also go out to Dan Decker,
the best rivet bucker in the business. Better mention the wife (PJ) too for her
infinite patience.
Aircraft Background: IO540 S1AD, 300+++ Horsepower, Air Flow Performance
Injection, Light Speed Ignition, Carbon Fiber Cowls and many more mods than we
don't have time to disclose. Mark F. "We can't wait."
Regards,
Tom
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01@aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (Just Flew 9/14, Look Out!)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: SL-40, et. al. manuals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
I have had several requests for these manuals. I have no problem
emailing them, but PLEASE tell me as specifically as you can what you
want. I have all (installation, operation and in some cases
maintenance) of the SL15, SL30, SL40 and SL70/70R manuals that were on
the UPSAT web site.
They are all at least 500kB and many are over 1.5MB. Lots of email
accounts have a limit on attachment size and total email storage. CHECK
your situation first and let me know what you can handle.
I have broadband so I don't have a problem sending these, but to make my
life easier, please tell me what you want and how many MB you can handle
per message and per day.
Dick Tasker
Richard E. Tasker wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
>
>I have all the SL40 manuals (installation, operating, service, all
>pdf). I downloaded all of them right after Garmin purchased UPSAT for
>just this reason!
>
>I have three installation manuals for different vintages (1997, 1999,
>2003). What vintage is the radio and where do I email it?
>
>Please either specify which one you want or that you want all of them
>(about 4 MB) and if you want the operating and service manuals as well.
>
>Dick Tasker
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: to polyfuse.... or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
cgalley wrote:
>Maybe they are Kerry amps and it depends which day you use them!
>
>
I can't wait to see the list cop's reaction to this one.
do not archive
--
Chris W
Bring Back the HP 15C
http://hp15c.org
Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help.
http://thewishzone.com
Message 22
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| Subject: | to polyfuse.... or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Dave,
As I recall (those who know better, please give a better answer but don't
jump on me if I am wrong or recall incorrectly) ...
These Polyfuses "switch" to "off" based in part on a temp rise. This takes
some finite amount of time so it does not *immediately* switch at exactly "9
amps". They may very well run at 11 amps, I am not sure. BUT you can check
it by slowly increasing the amperage and see where it switched if that is a
major concern. (I suspect there is some small variability is regular fuse
but it is not enough to be of any concern) If some current significantly
greater was shoved down the wire though, I believe the polyfuse WOULD switch
quickly before you burned up the wire.
All of the theory aside, 9 amps or 14 amps or 11 amps for that matter, ours
has worked without problem. A short will make it switch *right now* and the
radio has not caused it to switch prematurely. Nor have any of the other
items.
James
RV6 with EXP-BUS (polyfuses)
RV6A with Nuckolls "Z-14"
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Bristol
> Sent: Tuesday, September 14, 2004 4:20 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: to polyfuse.... or not
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
>
> > According to Control Vision maker of the EXP-2V, " a 9 amp
> polyfuse circuit is roughly comparable to a 14 amp fuse or breaker.
> >
> I'd sure like to see the math on this one. After 45 years in electronics
> I thought that "9 amps" was "9 amps" not 14 amps. (Political correctness
> perhaps?) Could someone please enlighten me? 8>)
>
> Dave Bristol RV6 So Cal
> EAA Technical Counselor
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | King KN53 Coax wiring - J531, J533 Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DonEavesRV6" <DonEavesRV6@midsouth.rr.com>
King KN53 Coax wiring - J531, J533 Question:
I'm installing a King KN53 Nav in my flying RV6 and I need to know which coax connectors
(J531 and J533) is Glide Slop and which Localizer?
Thanks in advance -
Don Eaves RV6 Flying
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: to polyfuse.... or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 9/14/2004 5:13:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
cgalley@qcbc.org writes:
Maybe they are Kerry amps and it depends which day you use them!
=========================================
Or Bush Amps that just decided to take a year off without leave!
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs)
Message 25
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<vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Ken Knowles is selling his RV-6. I believe it's Subaru powered, and it's
based at Chino, CA. His phone # is 949-951-5693. I'm not affiliated with
the sale, just passing the word on for Ken.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: to polyfuse.... or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" <rv6tc@myawai.com>
No, no, no... the Kerry fuses decided to blow at 9 amps before they blew at
14 amps.
H
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: to polyfuse.... or not
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 9/14/2004 5:13:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> cgalley@qcbc.org writes:
>
> Maybe they are Kerry amps and it depends which day you use them!
>
>
> =========================================
>
> Or Bush Amps that just decided to take a year off without leave!
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs)
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: to polyfuse.... or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Blew amps, Oh No, not her again. Sorry, I thought you typed "gramps".
Please note the font, size, style and age of my typewriter.
Wasn't me, musta been some other buddy. DO NOT ARCHIVE KABONG (GBA & "W")
8*)
----- Original Message ----- > No, no, no... the Kerry fuses decided to blow
at 9 amps before they blew at
> 14 amps.
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