Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:36 AM - Re: Re : fuel return line ()
2. 04:50 AM - Re: to polyfuse.... or not (Trampas)
3. 05:53 AM - Kit plane magazine (bertrv6@highstream.net)
4. 07:00 AM - Air Compressors (Valovich, Paul)
5. 07:15 AM - Re: Air Compressors (Doug Brinlee)
6. 07:32 AM - Re: Air Compressors (DonEavesRV6)
7. 07:36 AM - Re: Re : fuel return line (Jack Ford)
8. 07:49 AM - Re: Air Compressors (Doug Brinlee)
9. 07:50 AM - Re: Air Compressors (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
10. 07:51 AM - WTB RV -6/6A or-7/7A (C P)
11. 07:53 AM - Re: Air Compressors (Dale Mitchell)
12. 08:10 AM - High fuel pressure (Chris Good)
13. 08:19 AM - Re: FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 (Bob J)
14. 08:23 AM - Re: Air Compressors (steve zicree)
15. 08:31 AM - Re: Air Compressors (Sims, Doug)
16. 08:53 AM - Rudder Cable Fairings (Trainnut01@aol.com)
17. 08:57 AM - Air Compressors (Jim Duckett)
18. 09:00 AM - Re: FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 (Richard Lundin)
19. 09:02 AM - Hurricane stuff (John Helms)
20. 09:26 AM - Re: Re : fuel return line ()
21. 09:33 AM - Vetterman Exhaust (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
22. 09:35 AM - Re: High fuel pressure (Doug Rozendaal)
23. 09:35 AM - Re: Air Compressors ()
24. 09:45 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairings (Sam Buchanan)
25. 10:17 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairings (Dan Checkoway)
26. 10:48 AM - gluing canopy to frame (Karen and Robert Brown)
27. 11:07 AM - grass runway smoothness for RV operations (czechsix@juno.com)
28. 11:12 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairings (Sims, Doug)
29. 11:44 AM - Re: gluing canopy to frame (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
30. 12:00 PM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairings (steve zicree)
31. 12:15 PM - Re: FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 (Charles Rowbotham)
32. 01:05 PM - Re: gluing canopy to frame (George Steube)
33. 01:05 PM - Re: gluing canopy to frame (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
34. 01:36 PM - Re: gluing canopy to frame (Mickey Coggins)
35. 02:13 PM - Re: gluing canopy to frame (Richard Tasker)
36. 03:17 PM - Re: gluing canopy to frame (Gert)
37. 03:44 PM - Remove Aileron Twist ()
38. 03:44 PM - Any RV8's in Phoenix for fit-check of large RV buyer? (Brian Denk)
39. 04:39 PM - Re: grass runway smoothness for RV operations (Alex Peterson)
40. 05:57 PM - Re: grass runway smoothness for RV operations (cgalley)
41. 06:01 PM - spraylat removal (Gert)
42. 06:11 PM - Re: grass runway smoothness for RV operations (Nels Hanson)
43. 06:52 PM - Re: grass runway smoothness for RV operations (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
44. 06:53 PM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairings (Tim Bryan)
45. 07:25 PM - wood prop (Leelesher@cs.com)
46. 07:52 PM - Re: gluing canopy to frame (Charles Rowbotham)
47. 08:35 PM - enabling approaches on UPSAT GX50 (Jeff Dowling)
48. 09:01 PM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairings (Stein Bruch)
49. 09:34 PM - Re: spraylat removal (steven dinieri)
50. 09:34 PM - Re: gluing canopy to frame (Hal / Carol Kempthorne)
51. 09:49 PM - DYNON D10A & ENCODER PROTOCOL (Bruno)
52. 10:52 PM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairings (HCRV6@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Re : fuel return line |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
My RV-6A (Scooter) has no gascolator and has no return line. I use mogas
most of the time. I'll add 100LL about once per year, or when the need
arises such as when I'm going to be doing a quick turnaround activity like
taking up Young Eagles. Then, I add about five gallons of 100LL per side.
Vapor lock has not been a show stopper. Of course, my having used mogas in
my airplanes since 1986 gave me a pretty good notion that it would work in
the RV.
My fuel line goes from the tank to the fuel selector, on to the round Facet
pump on the engine side of the firewall, a T for the primer, on to the
mechanical pump, and on to the carb. Nothing special. I kept it simple. I
like to think that's what Van had in mind. :-) My new RV will have the
same setup. I don't see any need to change what works.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter - over 300 hours)
RV-7A #70317 (Building wings)
EAA Tech Counselor
> I'll explain in a little more detail. I ran my engine fuel supply line
from
> the selector valve to a wing root-mounted gascolator, then Facet boost
pump,
> also in the wing root then to a T fitting on the firewall. One side goes
to
> the engine-driven pump and the other side goes to the primer solenoid
valve.
> ( Hit the boost pump button, then the primer switch - instant start) On
the
> engine-driven pump outlet fitting, I have a smaller piggy-back fitting
with
> a restrictor that routes back to the left hand tank. This is supposed to
> take the bubbles away before they get to the carb. A small ball valve
allow
> me to turn off the return line.
>
> Having installed this sytem, I have had no reason to use it for its
intended
> purpose - that is, eliminating vapour lock. Even in 40 degree C temps.
> May well be different if I was using mogas.
Message 2
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| Subject: | to polyfuse.... or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
As far as the poly fuses go, why do you check the datasheets:
http://rocky.digikey.com/scripts/ProductInfo.dll?Site=US&V=47&M=RUE900
Here the datasheets state that the current rating of the switch is based
upon the voltage rating. That is at a lower voltage the fuse is rated
higher. They then leave it up to the engineer to determine the actually
rating for your application.
Regards,
Trampas
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv6tc
Subject: Re: RV-List: to polyfuse.... or not
--> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" <rv6tc@myawai.com>
No, no, no... the Kerry fuses decided to blow at 9 amps before they blew at
14 amps.
H
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: to polyfuse.... or not
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 9/14/2004 5:13:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> cgalley@qcbc.org writes:
>
> Maybe they are Kerry amps and it depends which day you use them!
>
>
> =========================================
>
> Or Bush Amps that just decided to take a year off without leave!
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs)
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Kit plane magazine |
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
There is a very good article on the last issue of Kit Planes magazine
about, the accidents on Experimental Aircraft. Also a good article
on Insuring our birds....
Bert
rv6a
Do not archive
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion
on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV
construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in
Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models
because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon
model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I
deferred.
Paul Valovich
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Air Compressors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Brinlee" <abfbrinlee@att.net>
Paul,
I am about to buy a compressor for my project. If you search Campbell
Hausfeld rebuilt on the net you will find a site that you can buy
reconditioned like new compressors. Free ship and no tax. A 20 gallon
direct drive will cost you 200.00 and you can buy a 26 gallon direct drive
for 250.00. They have a 60 gallon on sale for 399.00. I think a 26 gallon
direct drive will work fine for most applications. Good luck
Doug Brinlee 7A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
>
> I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion
> on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV
> construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in
> Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models
> because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon
> model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I
> deferred.
>
> Paul Valovich
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Air Compressors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DonEavesRV6" <DonEavesRV6@midsouth.rr.com>
I agree with avoiding an oil-less unit - Noise! and it will not last as
long - After my oil-less gave up, I bought a upright 230 V 50 gal unit from
Sam's Club and it has lasted 6+ years with old forgetful leaving it on @ the
hangar for a few weeks at a time. Whatever brand Sam's, Costco or ? has
should do. A Name Brand will cost you more and most are build by 1 or 2
different co's anyway.
Don Eaves RV6 Flying 250+- hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
>
> I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion
> on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV
> construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in
> Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models
> because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon
> model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I
> deferred.
>
> Paul Valovich
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Re : fuel return line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Ford" <jackoford@theofficenet.com>
Jim,
Not too many years ago, my friend Johnathan Crawford was flying a Beech
(Whatever the cheap retractable was) when the electric pump failed and some
of its components went into the mechanical pump and killed it.
He dead sticked onto Brand Boulevard in Glendale, CA during rush hour.
I think I'd prefer my pumps in parallel, rather than series.
FWIW
Jack Ford
----- Original Message -----
From: <sears@searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re : fuel return line
> --> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
>
> My RV-6A (Scooter) has no gascolator and has no return line. I use mogas
> most of the time. I'll add 100LL about once per year, or when the need
> arises such as when I'm going to be doing a quick turnaround activity like
> taking up Young Eagles. Then, I add about five gallons of 100LL per side.
> Vapor lock has not been a show stopper. Of course, my having used mogas
in
> my airplanes since 1986 gave me a pretty good notion that it would work in
> the RV.
>
> My fuel line goes from the tank to the fuel selector, on to the round
Facet
> pump on the engine side of the firewall, a T for the primer, on to the
> mechanical pump, and on to the carb. Nothing special. I kept it simple.
I
> like to think that's what Van had in mind. :-) My new RV will have the
> same setup. I don't see any need to change what works.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (Scooter - over 300 hours)
> RV-7A #70317 (Building wings)
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
> > I'll explain in a little more detail. I ran my engine fuel supply line
> from
> > the selector valve to a wing root-mounted gascolator, then Facet boost
> pump,
> > also in the wing root then to a T fitting on the firewall. One side goes
> to
> > the engine-driven pump and the other side goes to the primer solenoid
> valve.
> > ( Hit the boost pump button, then the primer switch - instant start) On
> the
> > engine-driven pump outlet fitting, I have a smaller piggy-back fitting
> with
> > a restrictor that routes back to the left hand tank. This is supposed to
> > take the bubbles away before they get to the carb. A small ball valve
> allow
> > me to turn off the return line.
> >
> > Having installed this sytem, I have had no reason to use it for its
> intended
> > purpose - that is, eliminating vapour lock. Even in 40 degree C temps.
> > May well be different if I was using mogas.
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Air Compressors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Brinlee" <abfbrinlee@att.net>
Correction to previous post on air compressors. The price I listed is for
belt drive units. Not the noisy direct drive units...sorry for the mistake.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Brinlee" <abfbrinlee@att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressors
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Brinlee" <abfbrinlee@att.net>
>
> Paul,
> I am about to buy a compressor for my project. If you search Campbell
> Hausfeld rebuilt on the net you will find a site that you can buy
> reconditioned like new compressors. Free ship and no tax. A 20 gallon
> direct drive will cost you 200.00 and you can buy a 26 gallon direct drive
> for 250.00. They have a 60 gallon on sale for 399.00. I think a 26
gallon
> direct drive will work fine for most applications. Good luck
> Doug Brinlee 7A
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
> >
> > I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion
> > on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV
> > construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in
> > Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models
> > because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon
> > model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I
> > deferred.
> >
> > Paul Valovich
> >
> >
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
> an opinion on the type and brand of air compressor <
I have an ancient American Champion that works very well.
At 1-hp, it's considerably smaller than I would like, but I'm in cramped
quarters, it's paid for, and it will do until I start sanding.
Neal
Message 10
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| Subject: | WTB RV -6/6A or-7/7A |
--> RV-List message posted by: C P <yankeerv10@yahoo.com>
Hi,
A friend of mine is having bad luck finding an RV for sale. An
ex-military pilot, he likes the acrobatic feel with side-by-side
seating of the -6 and -7 models. He doesn't care which end the
third wheel is attached. He prefers IFR equipped. Please send me
particulars and contact info!
cheers,
Chuck Packard
YankeeRV10@yahoo.com
_______________________________
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Air Compressors |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
Get at least 5 HP and minium of 30 gallon and dont use
an oilless.
When cutting the canopy you will need the capicity to
run a air cuttoff tool.
IMHO.
Dale Mitchell RV8A MN wing
--- "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul"
> <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
>
> I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does
> anyone have an opinion
> on the type and brand of air compressor that is best
> for RV
> construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course
> last weekend in
> Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the
> oilless models
> because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night
> and the 30 gallon
> model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to
> be oilless - so I
> deferred.
>
> Paul Valovich
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
_______________________________
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http://vote.yahoo.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | High fuel pressure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
Listers,
My EIS-4000 has started complaining about high fuel pressure recently. This is
on an O-360-A1A with a carb & the standard low pressure engine driven fuel pump.
In normal cruise, I get a fuel pressure reading somewhere between 2 & 5 psi,
which is fine. The problem occurs intermittently when taxiing, & recently
in the air when throttling back for a descent. The pressure climbs to 10-12
psi.
Looking back a couple of years at my engine monitor logs, the pressure never used
to exceed 6-7 psi. All the above readings are without the electric boost pump.
In looking at the archives & other internet sources I found two suggestions:
1. The VDO pressure sensor is only good for 2-300 hrs. But this doesn't seem
like a sensor problem as my cruise readings are normal.
2. The fuel pump pressure regulator is vented to the crankcase & high fuel pressure
can be a symptom of breather blockage. This seems possible as I have a
home-made oil separator on the breather. Maybe this is blocked & the engine is
breathing through the whistle slot! I plan to check this in the next couple
of days.
Has anyone experienced this? Any other suggestions?
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
RV-6A, 775 hrs
--
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
Tom, what does it weigh?
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying, F1 qb under const.
On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 20:44:32 EDT, wfact01@aol.com <wfact01@aol.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com
>
> September 14th: The long awaited first flight of the Whelan Super 8 took
> place at 13:15 in Bethlehem, CT. The aircraft performed flawlessly. Too bad
we
> won't make Reno this year. Many thanks to all who helped make this moment
> possible, especially, Bill Benedict whose great friendship and eternal faith
in this
> project will never be forgotten. Special thanks also go out to Dan Decker,
> the best rivet bucker in the business. Better mention the wife (PJ) too for her
> infinite patience.
>
> Aircraft Background: IO540 S1AD, 300+++ Horsepower, Air Flow Performance
> Injection, Light Speed Ignition, Carbon Fiber Cowls and many more mods than we
> don't have time to disclose. Mark F. "We can't wait."
>
> Regards,
> Tom
>
> Tom Whelan
> Whelan Farms Airport
> President EAA Chapter 1097
> wfact01@aol.com
> 249 Hard Hill Road North
> PO Box 426
> Bethlehem, CT 06751
> Tel: 203-266-5300
> Fax: 202-266-5140
> EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
> RV-8 540 LYC (Just Flew 9/14, Look Out!)
> S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Air Compressors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Certain tools use a ton of air, but are real nice to have. For example, hand
held disc sanders. I originally had a small oil-free type and was constantly
running short on air. I traded up to a bigger conventional and still had
troubles. The problem went away when I bought a conventional type, 220 volt
model. The 220 volt motors will last a lot longer and produce way more air.
I think mine puts out about 6 horsepower, which is plenty for all spraying
and sanding. Smaller ones will work fine for riveting but will come up short
on high consumption tools. Mine came from Home Depot.
Steve Zicree
Finishing kit, RV4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
>
> I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion
> on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV
> construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in
> Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models
> because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon
> model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I
> deferred.
>
> Paul Valovich
>
>
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Sims, Doug" <Doug.Sims@danahermotion.com>
I agree! Although I still have my 20G Sears unit, it needs it's own 20amp
circuit and doesn't work well in the cold. over the long run you will be
much better off without the oiless. Spend the extra $100 it's worth it.
RV8
-----Original Message-----
From: DonEavesRV6 [mailto:DonEavesRV6@midsouth.rr.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressors
--> RV-List message posted by: "DonEavesRV6" <DonEavesRV6@midsouth.rr.com>
I agree with avoiding an oil-less unit - Noise! and it will not last as
long - After my oil-less gave up, I bought a upright 230 V 50 gal unit from
Sam's Club and it has lasted 6+ years with old forgetful leaving it on @ the
hangar for a few weeks at a time. Whatever brand Sam's, Costco or ? has
should do. A Name Brand will cost you more and most are build by 1 or 2
different co's anyway.
Don Eaves RV6 Flying 250+- hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
>
> I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion
> on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV
> construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in
> Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models
> because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon
> model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I
> deferred.
>
> Paul Valovich
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Rudder Cable Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
I saw an ad recently for some alumunum fairings that install over the rudder
cables where they exit the fuselage. Now I can't remember where I saw them.
Can someone help me over a senior moment?
Carroll Jernigan
East TN
7A Fuselage
do not archive
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
To Paul and Doug,
When shopping for a compressor one of the primary things to be aware of
is the capacity of the compressor itself.
Many are advertised by horsepower rather than what they flow. I've seen
5H.P. compressors advertised anywhere from 3.6 to 12.5 CFM...Big
Difference! and these flow rates vary in pressure from 35# to 90#.
Most air tools consume anywhere from 1.5CFM for a 2X rivet gun operating
at 25# to 12.5CFM for die grinders running line pressure. Depending on
the make and model, paint guns eat a fair amount of air too, anywhere
from 3 to 9CFM. Some of the cheap-o HVLP's can use more than a grinder.
With that being said, I would recommend a compressor that flows at least
20% more than your highest normal use consumption at the highest
pressure you intend to have for working pressure. Example, you plan on
using all air tools in your shop as well as doing some painting. Lets
say your normal consumption will be 7 CFM and your highest working
pressure will be 90#. I would look for a compressor that flows at least
8.5 - 9 CFM @ 90#.
Also make sure that the unit has a large enough tank so the compressor
isn't running constantly. I would recommend that your tank is at least
the size of your usage. Most tank are advertised in gallons instead of
cubic feet. A cubic foot is 7.48 gallons.
9 X 7.48 gives you a tank size of approx. 67 Gallons.
So in this case you would want to find a compressor that flows 9 CFM @
90 # with a 60-70 gallon tank.
I would also recommend that you look for a two-stage compressor. They
tend to start easier, build up faster, and last longer with less
maintenance than single stage and direct drives.
Just a little input...Hope it helps!
Jim Duckett, RV-7A N708JD
Performance Engineering
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Lundin <rlundin46@yahoo.com>
Nice job Tom. I wish you were going to Reno this year.
I was looking forward to seeing you race.
Best to you,
Rick L
--- Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob J
> <rocketbob@gmail.com>
>
> Tom, what does it weigh?
>
> Regards,
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 flying, F1 qb under const.
>
>
> On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 20:44:32 EDT, wfact01@aol.com
> <wfact01@aol.com> wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com
> >
> > September 14th: The long awaited first flight of
> the Whelan Super 8 took
> > place at 13:15 in Bethlehem, CT. The aircraft
> performed flawlessly. Too bad we
> > won't make Reno this year. Many thanks to all who
> helped make this moment
> > possible, especially, Bill Benedict whose great
> friendship and eternal faith in this
> > project will never be forgotten. Special thanks
> also go out to Dan Decker,
> > the best rivet bucker in the business. Better
> mention the wife (PJ) too for her
> > infinite patience.
> >
> > Aircraft Background: IO540 S1AD, 300+++
> Horsepower, Air Flow Performance
> > Injection, Light Speed Ignition, Carbon Fiber
> Cowls and many more mods than we
> > don't have time to disclose. Mark F. "We can't
> wait."
> >
> > Regards,
> > Tom
> >
> > Tom Whelan
> > Whelan Farms Airport
> > President EAA Chapter 1097
> > wfact01@aol.com
> > 249 Hard Hill Road North
> > PO Box 426
> > Bethlehem, CT 06751
> > Tel: 203-266-5300
> > Fax: 202-266-5140
> > EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
> > RV-8 540 LYC (Just Flew 9/14, Look Out!)
> > S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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0.00 THE_BEST_RATE BODY: The best Rates
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
Yes, hurricanes are covered by all the insurance companies. No, coverage is not
contingent upon you moving the plane out of harms way. Remaining claim free
is of benefit to you for future insurability at the best rates (yes, even though
a resultant loss would be an act of God and not a judgement loss on your part,
i.e. fuel exhaustion, etc.)
I am posting this primarily to inform the vast majority of my policy holders in
the VanGuard Program that effective immediately, Phoenix (the company which underwrites
the VanGuard Program) has agreed to re-imburse their customers which
carry full or Ground not in motion coverage on their planes for moving their
planes out of a Hurricane Warning/Watch area. AIG is the only other company
which currently offers this type of re-imbursement, and the limitations (below)
are almost identical.
Phoenix's limitations:
1. Policy must already contain coverage F or G (Full inflight and ground or Ground
not in motion).
2. Must be relocated to another airport that is at least 100 NMs outside the warning/watch
area.
3. Reimbursement is limited to 50% of the total relocation cost (including ferry
pilot if necessary) or $500 whichever is less. $1000 max per year.
Phoenix nor any of the other companies will add physical damage coverage to policies
in the affected areas, nor will they start new policies in those areas currently.
No need to call and tell your agent your are or want to do this. Just keep the
receipts for gas, tied down costs, and other expenses, and contact your agent
after returning to your homebase to coordinate the reimbursement.
Sorry to be so brief, but my girls' daycare provider is sick, and I must go get
them. If you're insured elsewhere but through Phoenix or AIG, please call your
agent for more details. If you are insured by NationAir, any agent here in
my office can explain it to you further.
JT
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Re : fuel return line |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
Jack, the fuel system in series is pretty standard amongst the commercially
built aircraft I've seen. I've been flying since 1982 and haven't heard of
that happening, before. I'm sure things like that can happen. However, I'd
prefer to keep the fuel system simple and take the almost no risk of having
one trash the other. Adding complexity to a system can oftentimes cause
more problems than KISS. However, do what you have to do to make you have
warm fuzzies. I'll stick with what works for me, which is having the fuel
system components in series. Van's RV-6A drawings show the fuel system
components in series, as well. Thanks for the input, though.
Jim Sears in KY
> Not too many years ago, my friend Johnathan Crawford was flying a Beech
> (Whatever the cheap retractable was) when the electric pump failed and
some
> of its components went into the mechanical pump and killed it.
> He dead sticked onto Brand Boulevard in Glendale, CA during rush hour.
> I think I'd prefer my pumps in parallel, rather than series.
> FWIW
Message 21
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| Subject: | Vetterman Exhaust |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
List,
I'd like to compliment Larry Vetterman. I ordered my system from him at
Van's Homecoming on Sept. 4th. He said it would arrive in "2-3 weeks". The brown
van showed up yesterday , with the entire system. He flew home to SD,
fabbed my system, shipped it, and arrived here in 10 days. Don't you just love
folks who under-promise and over-perform? Thanks Larry!!!
Not only that, but this thing is a work of art, everything fit with no mods
at all. I had it bolted up to the engine in 15 min. Clearances are perfect for
my engine.
Needless to say, Vetterman Exhaust is highly recommended.
Jerry Cochran
RV6a/XPIO-360
Wilsonville, OR
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: High fuel pressure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Chris.
I had trouble with my Rocky sensor, reading high oil pressure, also a VDO
and it turned out it was a bad connection.
The Rocky reads higher pressure as lower resistance, ie an open reads top of
scale. I assume yours is the same.
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
Subject: RV-List: High fuel pressure
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> My EIS-4000 has started complaining about high fuel pressure recently.
This is on an O-360-A1A with a carb & the standard low pressure engine
driven fuel pump. In normal cruise, I get a fuel pressure reading somewhere
between 2 & 5 psi, which is fine. The problem occurs intermittently when
taxiing, & recently in the air when throttling back for a descent. The
pressure climbs to 10-12 psi.
>
> Looking back a couple of years at my engine monitor logs, the pressure
never used to exceed 6-7 psi. All the above readings are without the
electric boost pump.
>
> In looking at the archives & other internet sources I found two
suggestions:
>
> 1. The VDO pressure sensor is only good for 2-300 hrs. But this doesn't
seem like a sensor problem as my cruise readings are normal.
>
> 2. The fuel pump pressure regulator is vented to the crankcase & high
fuel pressure can be a symptom of breather blockage. This seems possible as
I have a home-made oil separator on the breather. Maybe this is blocked &
the engine is breathing through the whistle slot! I plan to check this in
the next couple of days.
>
> Has anyone experienced this? Any other suggestions?
>
> Regards,
>
> Chris Good,
> West Bend, WI
> RV-6A, 775 hrs
> --
>
>
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: <dfiggins@es.com>
I am also on empennage, after web research and in store comparison
settled on 5 HP and 20 gal tank, 30 gallon is better if you have space.
20 gallon is OK for everything except air cutoff tool (intermittent use
only). Get belt drive (much, much quieter) and cast iron compressor. The
unit I got from Lowes is rated continuous duty cycle with 3 year
warranty cost $350.
Dave Figgins RV-7A empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Mitchell
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressors
--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
Get at least 5 HP and minium of 30 gallon and dont use an oilless.
When cutting the canopy you will need the capicity to run a air cuttoff
tool.
IMHO.
Dale Mitchell RV8A MN wing
--- "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul"
> <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
>
> I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an
> opinion on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV
> construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in
> Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models
> because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon
> model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I
> deferred.
>
> Paul Valovich
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
_______________________________
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Trainnut01@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
>
> I saw an ad recently for some alumunum fairings that install over the rudder
> cables where they exit the fuselage. Now I can't remember where I saw them.
> Can someone help me over a senior moment?
> Carroll Jernigan
> East TN
> 7A Fuselage
These fairings are very easy to make out of scrap material:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/fuse8.html
Sam Buchanan
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Why not just make your own out of .016" aluminum....it's way too easy. I
copied Sam Buchanan, if I remember correctly. See the photos at the bottom
of this page: http://www.rvproject.com/20030209.html
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (219 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Trainnut01@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings
> --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
>
> I saw an ad recently for some alumunum fairings that install over the
rudder
> cables where they exit the fuselage. Now I can't remember where I saw
them.
> Can someone help me over a senior moment?
> Carroll Jernigan
> East TN
> 7A Fuselage
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | gluing canopy to frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
Hi everyone, I'm happy to be back on the list after a 6 month absence, moving (the
plane was unscathed) and getting back to work.
I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there are
any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws. I noticed in
an earlier post from Jim Duckett in Nov. of 2001 the mention of using a product
from FUSOR. In that post, Jim mentioned that adhesive manufacturer had a brand
that GM uses to glue the door hinges onto the door posts in its new vehicles.
Details of that post are in the archives.
While all of us are building "plans built" aircraft, and the plans call for screws
to be used to attach the canopy to the frame, I think the case can be made
that using an adhesive might save time and might eliminate issues with cracking,
while still performing the most critical task -- keeping the canopy attached
to the frame in flight... I believe this is how all plexi is fixed into canopies
and window panels of modern jet aircraft of almost all types, surely we
can find an adhesive suitable for our application. I believe I heard that builders
in South Africa were using this technique, but could find nothing like
that in the archives, so maybe I was imagining it.
Does anyone have real information on this??
Bob Brown
Independence, OR
RV-7AQB (finish)
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | grass runway smoothness for RV operations |
--> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
Guys,
Is there any rule of thumb to know whether a grass strip is smooth enough to operate
an RV out of? In this case I'm talking about a strip that is a couple years
old and has only had a Cub and Stinson fly in and out of it, both of which
fly slower and have bigger tires than an RV. The strip has has never been rolled,
and never had an RV or anything with smaller wheels land on it...the owner
expressed some concern about the RV landing on it but he isn't too familiar
with the RV design so I don't know if his concerns are justified. Is there
any sort of objective criteria one can use before landing an RV on it to determine
whether it's smooth enough?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...
Get your name as your email address.
Includes spam protection, 1GB storage, no ads and more
Only $1.99/ month - visit http://www.mysite.com/name today!
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Rudder Cable Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Sims, Doug" <Doug.Sims@danahermotion.com>
Try Avery Tools
-----Original Message-----
From: Trainnut01@aol.com [mailto:Trainnut01@aol.com]
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings
--> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
I saw an ad recently for some alumunum fairings that install over the
rudder
cables where they exit the fuselage. Now I can't remember where I saw them.
Can someone help me over a senior moment?
Carroll Jernigan
East TN
7A Fuselage
do not archive
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | gluing canopy to frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
In my Super 8 section, under interesting. You will see some photos of a
glue job on an 8 canopy.
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
Mike
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karen and
Robert Brown
Subject: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown"
<bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
Hi everyone, I'm happy to be back on the list after a 6 month absence,
moving (the plane was unscathed) and getting back to work.
I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if
there are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using
screws. I noticed in an earlier post from Jim Duckett in Nov. of 2001
the mention of using a product from FUSOR. In that post, Jim mentioned
that adhesive manufacturer had a brand that GM uses to glue the door
hinges onto the door posts in its new vehicles. Details of that post
are in the archives.
While all of us are building "plans built" aircraft, and the plans call
for screws to be used to attach the canopy to the frame, I think the
case can be made that using an adhesive might save time and might
eliminate issues with cracking, while still performing the most critical
task -- keeping the canopy attached to the frame in flight... I believe
this is how all plexi is fixed into canopies and window panels of modern
jet aircraft of almost all types, surely we can find an adhesive
suitable for our application. I believe I heard that builders in South
Africa were using this technique, but could find nothing like that in
the archives, so maybe I was imagining it.
Does anyone have real information on this??
Bob Brown
Independence, OR
RV-7AQB (finish)
==
==
==
==
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
I bought some and they were definitely from either Cleavland Tools or Avery
Tools.
Steve Zicree
----- Original Message -----
From: <Trainnut01@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings
> --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
>
> I saw an ad recently for some alumunum fairings that install over the
rudder
> cables where they exit the fuselage. Now I can't remember where I saw
them.
> Can someone help me over a senior moment?
> Carroll Jernigan
> East TN
> 7A Fuselage
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Tom,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Westerly, RI)
>From: WFACT01@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8
>Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 20:44:32 EDT
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com
>
>September 14th: The long awaited first flight of the Whelan Super 8 took
>place at 13:15 in Bethlehem, CT. The aircraft performed flawlessly. Too
>bad we
>won't make Reno this year. Many thanks to all who helped make this moment
>possible, especially, Bill Benedict whose great friendship and eternal
>faith in this
>project will never be forgotten. Special thanks also go out to Dan Decker,
>the best rivet bucker in the business. Better mention the wife (PJ) too for
>her
>infinite patience.
>
>Aircraft Background: IO540 S1AD, 300+++ Horsepower, Air Flow Performance
>Injection, Light Speed Ignition, Carbon Fiber Cowls and many more mods than
>we
>don't have time to disclose. Mark F. "We can't wait."
>
>Regards,
>Tom
>
>
>Tom Whelan
>Whelan Farms Airport
>President EAA Chapter 1097
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | gluing canopy to frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George Steube" <at6c@bellsouth.net>
Mike,
Interesting process, but Barefoot Billy didn't say what he used as glue.
Can you find out what used and pass it on to the rest of the group. Thanks.
George
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stewart, Michael
(ISS Atlanta)
Subject: RE: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
In my Super 8 section, under interesting. You will see some photos of a
glue job on an 8 canopy.
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
Mike
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karen and
Robert Brown
Subject: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown"
<bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
Hi everyone, I'm happy to be back on the list after a 6 month absence,
moving (the plane was unscathed) and getting back to work.
I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if
there are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using
screws. I noticed in an earlier post from Jim Duckett in Nov. of 2001
the mention of using a product from FUSOR. In that post, Jim mentioned
that adhesive manufacturer had a brand that GM uses to glue the door
hinges onto the door posts in its new vehicles. Details of that post
are in the archives.
While all of us are building "plans built" aircraft, and the plans call
for screws to be used to attach the canopy to the frame, I think the
case can be made that using an adhesive might save time and might
eliminate issues with cracking, while still performing the most critical
task -- keeping the canopy attached to the frame in flight... I believe
this is how all plexi is fixed into canopies and window panels of modern
jet aircraft of almost all types, surely we can find an adhesive
suitable for our application. I believe I heard that builders in South
Africa were using this technique, but could find nothing like that in
the archives, so maybe I was imagining it.
Does anyone have real information on this??
Bob Brown
Independence, OR
RV-7AQB (finish)
==
==
==
==
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: gluing canopy to frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 9/15/04 12:49:52 PM Central Daylight Time,
bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com writes:
> I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there
> are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws.
FWIW, I used proseal to attach both canopy parts (tip-up) to the canopy frame
and cabin frame (rollbar) to avoid exposed screws or holes in the plexi.
(Screws and proseal were used for the rear skin and sides of the canopy frame)
Due (I believe) to the different expansion rates of the aluminum rollbar and
the plexi, as soon as the plane was exposed to some real heat in direct
sunlight, the proseal separated from the plexi in some areas of the rollbar, but
has
held nicely to the canopy frame, which is less rigid than the rollbar. I
didn't scuff the plexi prior to application which may have contributed to the
separation, just thoroughly cleaned it. Other materials may hold better, but I
would be concerned about the stresses from temperature variation. I you're doing
a slider, this may not be as much of an issue, however.......
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A, 110 hours & waiting for call from painter!
Message 34
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| Subject: | gluing canopy to frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
I'm planning on doing this with my RV8. I don't have the
details from the kitplanes article by the South African
guy, but I did find some information on the web site that
supplies the glue he used. I copied it onto my web site
in case they move theirs:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040515213437823
Their URL is http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-marine-window-295
The stuff from "Barefoot Billy" Waters looks great - I'll
try to contact him for more details.
Additionally, I met a German guy with an RV6
http://www.rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Interlaken04&id=DSC01822
who glued on his canopy using the same stuff. Been flying
with no trouble for about 6 years, IIRC.
I'm sure this will be the recommended way to attach the
canopy to the frame in about 5-10 years! :-)
Mickey
>In my Super 8 section, under interesting. You will see some photos of a
>glue job on an 8 canopy.
>http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
>
>
>>I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if
>>there are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using
>>screws. ...
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: gluing canopy to frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
Take a look at the January 2004 issue of EAA Sport Aviation. There is
an article there about installing your canopy with Sikaflex 295UV adhesive.
Also see http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040515213437823 and
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2004-01-27.txt
I am going to use this (Sikaflex 295UV) to attach my canopy. Will let
the group know how it comes out.
Dick Tasker
Karen and Robert Brown wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
>
>Hi everyone, I'm happy to be back on the list after a 6 month absence, moving
(the plane was unscathed) and getting back to work.
>
>I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there are
any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws. I noticed in
an earlier post from Jim Duckett in Nov. of 2001 the mention of using a product
from FUSOR. In that post, Jim mentioned that adhesive manufacturer had a brand
that GM uses to glue the door hinges onto the door posts in its new vehicles.
Details of that post are in the archives.
>
>While all of us are building "plans built" aircraft, and the plans call for screws
to be used to attach the canopy to the frame, I think the case can be made
that using an adhesive might save time and might eliminate issues with cracking,
while still performing the most critical task -- keeping the canopy attached
to the frame in flight... I believe this is how all plexi is fixed into canopies
and window panels of modern jet aircraft of almost all types, surely we
can find an adhesive suitable for our application. I believe I heard that builders
in South Africa were using this technique, but could find nothing like
that in the archives, so maybe I was imagining it.
>
>Does anyone have real information on this??
>
>
>Bob Brown
>Independence, OR
>RV-7AQB (finish)
>
>
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: gluing canopy to frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Here is an exerp of an earlier email with glue info sent before I
actually glued it.
I have since glued the canopy on with good results, The one thing i
would do differently is to glue the canopy on with bare minimum of glue,
let this set, then go back and backfill and smooth out. for better
astetics. my canopy moved a tad too much and it was hard to get an even
looking result.
Hi Todd
Yes I definitely will try and glue. Matter of fact, talked with SIKA,
the folks mentioned in my previous email and the Sport Aviation article.
(Steve @ 1-888-832-7452).
Very, very nice person. First words were "Sorry, we do not support your
application", right after that, " now that I have said that, how can I
really help you............"
We talked for a while, Steve mentioned that his phone has been ringing
off the hook ever since the Sport Aviation article came out. He kinda
jokingly grumbled that he has had more response to an article SIKA did
not write for, a use SIKA does not support in a magazine SIKA did not
know about than what his total advertisement budget generated last year.
Steve said I should very carefully read the info at
http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-marine-window-295. and recommended to use
SIKA 209 to cover the plexi to make it opaque, SIKA 226 for cleaning the
frame and SIKAFLEX 295UV BLACK for gluing the canopy on, trying to get
at least 1/8" space between the canopy and the frame.
He recommends that all structural bonding is done in the BLACK urethane
as it has much better UV properties. if needed, one can make filets with
WHITE urethane over the black stuff, 295UV comes in black and white colors.
Most places I called would only sell a case of 12 10-ounce tubes of the
295UV, Again Steve to the rescue......Jamestown Distributors @
800-423-0030 will sell you individually, pricing: about 12 for a tube of
295UV black or white, 31 for a pint of 209 and 11 for a pint of 226. So,
that's what I ordered, tube o' black&white, 226 and 209. One could say I
am now committed ;-)
Took me a weekend to cut the canopy. Agony, agony, agony, lots of
sweat..................
if there is one thing I would do different is to not cut the rear of the
canopy, till I have the front close. Originally, my canopy did not even
cover half the tubes on the side frames of the slider. by dropping the
front 1/8" at the time I brought the sides of the canopy till just even
with the bottom of the frame. This however did 2 things, one it brought
the highest point of the canopy forward as it is sliding over the
roll-over bar, and two, it pulls the rear of the canopy forward. I had
cut some off the rear in an attempt to make the canopy come down as a
whole. ( I am 6'6", I need all the headroom I can have ;-)
Well, there you have it, my experience so far for posterity, to pass
along if you so wish. I will let you know what transpires when I get to
the gluing bit. Let me know if you can milk any info out of Charlie,
Sure would like to know what sticks better to plexi and canopy frames
than Kryptonite to Superman.
Gert
Mickey Coggins wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm planning on doing this with my RV8. I don't have the
> details from the kitplanes article by the South African
> guy, but I did find some information on the web site that
> supplies the glue he used. I copied it onto my web site
> in case they move theirs:
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040515213437823
>
> Their URL is http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-marine-window-295
>
> The stuff from "Barefoot Billy" Waters looks great - I'll
> try to contact him for more details.
>
> Additionally, I met a German guy with an RV6
> http://www.rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Interlaken04&id=DSC01822
> who glued on his canopy using the same stuff. Been flying
> with no trouble for about 6 years, IIRC.
>
> I'm sure this will be the recommended way to attach the
> canopy to the frame in about 5-10 years! :-)
>
> Mickey
>
>
>
>>In my Super 8 section, under interesting. You will see some photos of a
>>glue job on an 8 canopy.
>>http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
>>
>>
>>
>>>I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if
>>>there are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using
>>>screws. ...
>>
>>--
>>Mickey Coggins
>>http://www.rv8.ch/
>>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Remove Aileron Twist |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
I posted a message a few days about aileron twist, and I thought I would follow
up with the results.
After initially riveting the top surface of my RV7A aileron, I found that I had
around 1/8" twist in the trailing edge.
The insructions say to flip it over, weigh it down, then pop-rivet the bottom side.
I basically did just that, but I used a LOT of weight. I cut a nice, flat
board to the width of the aileron and loaded it down with four 25 lb bags of
lead shot (distributed across board). That obviously kept the aileron flat
on the table, while I proceeded to finish riveting the bottom edge. When I was
finished, the edge came out perfectly straight...a maximum of 0.04" twist.
FWIW...
Thanks for the help,
Scott
7A Wings - Flaps are all that's left
www.scottsrv7a.com
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Any RV8's in Phoenix for fit-check of large RV buyer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Listers,
I have been contacted by a prospective RV8 buyer who wants to try one on for
size. He's a large guy and will be in Phoenix this coming weekend. Please
reply to Larry at lwinger@earthlink.net
Thanks,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
do not archive
Message 39
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| Subject: | grass runway smoothness for RV operations |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> Guys,
>
> Is there any rule of thumb to know whether a grass strip is
> smooth enough to operate an RV out of? In this case I'm
> talking about a strip that is a couple years old and has only
> had a Cub and Stinson fly in and out of it, both of which fly
> slower and have bigger tires than an RV. The strip has has
> never been rolled, and never had an RV or anything with
> smaller wheels land on it...the owner expressed some concern
> about the RV landing on it but he isn't too familiar with the
> RV design so I don't know if his concerns are justified. Is
> there any sort of objective criteria one can use before
> landing an RV on it to determine whether it's smooth enough?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D finishing...
Mark,
This has come up before on this list. Generally, I don't think the
wheel size is the limitation in our case, the localized holes better not
be so big as to be a problem. The problem comes with undulations in the
strip, and the resonant frequency of the trigear setup. The trigears
will really get into pitch oscillations with the right combination of
speed, balance and waves in the strip. Don't try to correct for them
with elevator, just freeze the elevator at the takeoff position and ride
them out.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 522 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: grass runway smoothness for RV operations |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Mark Navratil,
I would talk to Ron White, TC for Chapter 33. As you know he flies a Long
Ez. He and his wife Connie fly into the grass Village Oaks airstrip at Blue
Grass Iowa without any problems. With that said it is a smooth strip. I'd
have Ron look at your proposed strip. I know you can depend on what he says
as he is very conservative.
Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
Chapter 75
Rock Island, IL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: grass runway smoothness for RV operations
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
<alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> >
> > Guys,
> >
> > Is there any rule of thumb to know whether a grass strip is
> > smooth enough to operate an RV out of? In this case I'm
> > talking about a strip that is a couple years old and has only
> > had a Cub and Stinson fly in and out of it, both of which fly
> > slower and have bigger tires than an RV. The strip has has
> > never been rolled, and never had an RV or anything with
> > smaller wheels land on it...the owner expressed some concern
> > about the RV landing on it but he isn't too familiar with the
> > RV design so I don't know if his concerns are justified. Is
> > there any sort of objective criteria one can use before
> > landing an RV on it to determine whether it's smooth enough?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > --Mark Navratil
> > Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> > RV-8A N2D finishing...
>
> Mark,
> This has come up before on this list. Generally, I don't think the
> wheel size is the limitation in our case, the localized holes better not
> be so big as to be a problem. The problem comes with undulations in the
> strip, and the resonant frequency of the trigear setup. The trigears
> will really get into pitch oscillations with the right combination of
> speed, balance and waves in the strip. Don't try to correct for them
> with elevator, just freeze the elevator at the takeoff position and ride
> them out.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 522 hours
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
Message 41
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|
"RV-8@yahoogroups.com" <RV-8@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | spraylat removal |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Hi Folks
I am trying to remove my spraylat layer from my canopy. it's coming off
over about 90 percent of the canopy with no problem......however...on
the remaining 10 percent it sticks better to the plexi than kryptonite
to superman!!
Does anybody have a good suggestion/solution to persuade the spraylat
from letting go of the canopy???
Thanks in advance.
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: grass runway smoothness for RV operations |
--> RV-List message posted by: Nels Hanson <pa201950@yahoo.com>
I walk my grass strip every once in awhile to check
for ground squirrel holes,ect. If it is bumpy to your
feet,it is going to chatter your wheel pants. Best bet
is to wait for a good rain and then get some asphalt
company to come out with a vibratory roller and beat
the bumps back into the ground. It is well worth the
$300-$400 it might cost. You should only have to do
this once a year. Since you are in a freeze thaw area
I could see this happening every spring. The key is
getting a very large roller or one that is vibratory.
--- "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com"
> <czechsix@juno.com>
>
>
> Guys,
>
> Is there any rule of thumb to know whether a grass
> strip is smooth enough to operate an RV out of? In
> this case I'm talking about a strip that is a couple
> years old and has only had a Cub and Stinson fly in
> and out of it, both of which fly slower and have
> bigger tires than an RV. The strip has has never
> been rolled, and never had an RV or anything with
> smaller wheels land on it...the owner expressed some
> concern about the RV landing on it but he isn't too
> familiar with the RV design so I don't know if his
> concerns are justified. Is there any sort of
> objective criteria one can use before landing an RV
> on it to determine whether it's smooth enough?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D finishing...
>
> Get your name as your email address.
> Includes spam protection, 1GB storage, no ads and
> more
> Only $1.99/ month - visit http://www.mysite.com/name
> today!
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
_______________________________
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: grass runway smoothness for RV operations |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Mark,
Having not the wisdom to ask this question on the List, I have been landing
on a surface like you describe with no problems. I wish it were smoother, but
the RV seems to take the roughness pretty well. I would advise about 3/4 inch
of clearance around the tires. I run 35 psi tire pressure in all 3
(tri-gear). I have an IO-360 up front and the nose wheel carries quite a lot of
weight, so I keep back stick as much as possible when landing -- takeoffs too for
that matter, except the plane just goes up if I do that!
BTW has anyone put 6.00 x 6s on the mains? There seems to be plenty of room
in the wheel fairings for the larger tires, and it would seem to help us
country boys.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A N766DH flying about 43 hours now.
In a message dated 9/15/04 1:08:58 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
czechsix@juno.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
>
>
> Guys,
>
> Is there any rule of thumb to know whether a grass strip is smooth enough to
> operate an RV out of? In this case I'm talking about a strip that is a
> couple years old and has only had a Cub and Stinson fly in and out of it, both
of
> which fly slower and have bigger tires than an RV. The strip has has never
> been rolled, and never had an RV or anything with smaller wheels land on
> it...the owner expressed some concern about the RV landing on it but he isn't
too
> familiar with the RV design so I don't know if his concerns are justified.
> Is there any sort of objective criteria one can use before landing an RV on
> it to determine whether it's smooth enough?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D finishing...
>
>
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer@improvementteam.com>
It is definately Avery were I got mine and they were reasonable to buy.
Comes with three, two for the rudder cables and a third as a spare or for
the trim cable exit.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
I bought some and they were definitely from either Cleavland Tools or Avery
Tools.
Steve Zicree
----- Original Message -----
From: <Trainnut01@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings
> --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
>
> I saw an ad recently for some alumunum fairings that install over the
rudder
> cables where they exit the fuselage. Now I can't remember where I saw
them.
> Can someone help me over a senior moment?
> Carroll Jernigan
> East TN
> 7A Fuselage
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 45
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Leelesher@cs.com
Someone e-mailed me asking about my wood prop on an IO-360 and I have lost the
address. Please e-mail again.
Lee Lesher
RV-8 Flying
Message 46
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| Subject: | gluing canopy to frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Bob,
We used SemWeld from 3M - came in a caulking type tube (you'll need one
their caulking type guns - see if you can borrow one from an Auto body
shop). We have 300+ hours on our canopy -No issues. It can also be painted.
You might want to check the archives under my name back in 2001 - I'm pretty
sure I posted a report on it. Please email me off line if you have any
questions.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame
>Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 10:56:01 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown"
><bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
>
>Hi everyone, I'm happy to be back on the list after a 6 month absence,
>moving (the plane was unscathed) and getting back to work.
>
>I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there
>are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws. I
>noticed in an earlier post from Jim Duckett in Nov. of 2001 the mention of
>using a product from FUSOR. In that post, Jim mentioned that adhesive
>manufacturer had a brand that GM uses to glue the door hinges onto the door
>posts in its new vehicles. Details of that post are in the archives.
>
>While all of us are building "plans built" aircraft, and the plans call for
>screws to be used to attach the canopy to the frame, I think the case can
>be made that using an adhesive might save time and might eliminate issues
>with cracking, while still performing the most critical task -- keeping the
>canopy attached to the frame in flight... I believe this is how all plexi
>is fixed into canopies and window panels of modern jet aircraft of almost
>all types, surely we can find an adhesive suitable for our application. I
>believe I heard that builders in South Africa were using this technique,
>but could find nothing like that in the archives, so maybe I was imagining
>it.
>
>Does anyone have real information on this??
>
>
>Bob Brown
>Independence, OR
>RV-7AQB (finish)
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | enabling approaches on UPSAT GX50 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I spoke with the Garmin folks about my gx50 today because I couldnt get approaches
enabled. I was told the faa must first certify the install, then the instller
can make the switch. Has anyone done this? I dont have the install manual
with me now?
Shemp
6a
Chicago/Louisville
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Rudder Cable Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Are you Definately Sure?? Because as far as I could tell, Orndorff sells a
set of 3 for $10.75+s/h, but none to be found on Avery's site or Clevelands
site?
Also, has everyone just completely ignored Sam B. & Dan C's posts about
making them yourself?? They really only take a few minutes to whip out and
are really simple to make (plus you'll never have to worry about a "spare").
Save yourself $15.00 and make a few out of scrap.....
Just my 2 cents (and a few others as well).
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <rv6flyer@improvementteam.com>
It is definately Avery were I got mine and they were reasonable to buy.
Comes with three, two for the rudder cables and a third as a spare or for
the trim cable exit.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
I bought some and they were definitely from either Cleavland Tools or Avery
Tools.
Steve Zicree
----- Original Message -----
From: <Trainnut01@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings
> --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
>
> I saw an ad recently for some alumunum fairings that install over the
rudder
> cables where they exit the fuselage. Now I can't remember where I saw
them.
> Can someone help me over a senior moment?
> Carroll Jernigan
> East TN
> 7A Fuselage
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 49
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| Subject: | spraylat removal |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steven dinieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
Gert, the spraylat is hard to remove when it's too thin to peel. Try
masking small areas around the offending spraylat and apply a good heavy
coat to dry overnight. Then just peel off in the morning..
Steve
Hi Folks
I am trying to remove my spraylat layer from my canopy. it's coming off
over about 90 percent of the canopy with no problem......however...on
the remaining 10 percent it sticks better to the plexi than kryptonite
to superman!!
Does anybody have a good suggestion/solution to persuade the spraylat
from letting go of the canopy???
Thanks in advance.
Gert
--
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: gluing canopy to frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 10:56 AM 9/15/2004, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown"
><bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
>I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there
>are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws.
Use a glue known to be kind to acrylic. Many resins are not. The wrong
stuff can cause crazing and even cracking, neither of which are desirable.
I suppose epoxy must be okay since it is the choice for windshield fairings
attach.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 51
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| Subject: | DYNON D10A & ENCODER PROTOCOL |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
Hello All
Are there any listers who have installed a Dynon D10A lately
and used the serial encoder for a Garmin GTX 327?
Which protocol did you used and was it worth it. I presently
have an Ameriking AK-350 blind encoder connected to my GTX 327 and it's
working fine. So I'm wondering if there are any advantages in using this
feature?
Also is there anyone with a web site with pictures of the Dynon's
installation? As you know a picture is worth a 1000 words....
Thanks a lot for your imputs.
Bruno Dionne
C-GDBH RV-4
rv4@videotron.ca
P.S# You may reply OFF list if you wish.
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
I'm pretty sure Avery and Cleveland both carry them.
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final details
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