---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 09/15/04: 52 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:36 AM - Re: Re : fuel return line () 2. 04:50 AM - Re: to polyfuse.... or not (Trampas) 3. 05:53 AM - Kit plane magazine (bertrv6@highstream.net) 4. 07:00 AM - Air Compressors (Valovich, Paul) 5. 07:15 AM - Re: Air Compressors (Doug Brinlee) 6. 07:32 AM - Re: Air Compressors (DonEavesRV6) 7. 07:36 AM - Re: Re : fuel return line (Jack Ford) 8. 07:49 AM - Re: Air Compressors (Doug Brinlee) 9. 07:50 AM - Re: Air Compressors (George Neal E Capt AU/PC) 10. 07:51 AM - WTB RV -6/6A or-7/7A (C P) 11. 07:53 AM - Re: Air Compressors (Dale Mitchell) 12. 08:10 AM - High fuel pressure (Chris Good) 13. 08:19 AM - Re: FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 (Bob J) 14. 08:23 AM - Re: Air Compressors (steve zicree) 15. 08:31 AM - Re: Air Compressors (Sims, Doug) 16. 08:53 AM - Rudder Cable Fairings (Trainnut01@aol.com) 17. 08:57 AM - Air Compressors (Jim Duckett) 18. 09:00 AM - Re: FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 (Richard Lundin) 19. 09:02 AM - Hurricane stuff (John Helms) 20. 09:26 AM - Re: Re : fuel return line () 21. 09:33 AM - Vetterman Exhaust (Jerry2DT@aol.com) 22. 09:35 AM - Re: High fuel pressure (Doug Rozendaal) 23. 09:35 AM - Re: Air Compressors () 24. 09:45 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairings (Sam Buchanan) 25. 10:17 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairings (Dan Checkoway) 26. 10:48 AM - gluing canopy to frame (Karen and Robert Brown) 27. 11:07 AM - grass runway smoothness for RV operations (czechsix@juno.com) 28. 11:12 AM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairings (Sims, Doug) 29. 11:44 AM - Re: gluing canopy to frame (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)) 30. 12:00 PM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairings (steve zicree) 31. 12:15 PM - Re: FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 (Charles Rowbotham) 32. 01:05 PM - Re: gluing canopy to frame (George Steube) 33. 01:05 PM - Re: gluing canopy to frame (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 34. 01:36 PM - Re: gluing canopy to frame (Mickey Coggins) 35. 02:13 PM - Re: gluing canopy to frame (Richard Tasker) 36. 03:17 PM - Re: gluing canopy to frame (Gert) 37. 03:44 PM - Remove Aileron Twist () 38. 03:44 PM - Any RV8's in Phoenix for fit-check of large RV buyer? (Brian Denk) 39. 04:39 PM - Re: grass runway smoothness for RV operations (Alex Peterson) 40. 05:57 PM - Re: grass runway smoothness for RV operations (cgalley) 41. 06:01 PM - spraylat removal (Gert) 42. 06:11 PM - Re: grass runway smoothness for RV operations (Nels Hanson) 43. 06:52 PM - Re: grass runway smoothness for RV operations (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 44. 06:53 PM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairings (Tim Bryan) 45. 07:25 PM - wood prop (Leelesher@cs.com) 46. 07:52 PM - Re: gluing canopy to frame (Charles Rowbotham) 47. 08:35 PM - enabling approaches on UPSAT GX50 (Jeff Dowling) 48. 09:01 PM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairings (Stein Bruch) 49. 09:34 PM - Re: spraylat removal (steven dinieri) 50. 09:34 PM - Re: gluing canopy to frame (Hal / Carol Kempthorne) 51. 09:49 PM - DYNON D10A & ENCODER PROTOCOL (Bruno) 52. 10:52 PM - Re: Rudder Cable Fairings (HCRV6@aol.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:36:25 AM PST US From: Subject: Re: RV-List: Re : fuel return line --> RV-List message posted by: My RV-6A (Scooter) has no gascolator and has no return line. I use mogas most of the time. I'll add 100LL about once per year, or when the need arises such as when I'm going to be doing a quick turnaround activity like taking up Young Eagles. Then, I add about five gallons of 100LL per side. Vapor lock has not been a show stopper. Of course, my having used mogas in my airplanes since 1986 gave me a pretty good notion that it would work in the RV. My fuel line goes from the tank to the fuel selector, on to the round Facet pump on the engine side of the firewall, a T for the primer, on to the mechanical pump, and on to the carb. Nothing special. I kept it simple. I like to think that's what Van had in mind. :-) My new RV will have the same setup. I don't see any need to change what works. Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS (Scooter - over 300 hours) RV-7A #70317 (Building wings) EAA Tech Counselor > I'll explain in a little more detail. I ran my engine fuel supply line from > the selector valve to a wing root-mounted gascolator, then Facet boost pump, > also in the wing root then to a T fitting on the firewall. One side goes to > the engine-driven pump and the other side goes to the primer solenoid valve. > ( Hit the boost pump button, then the primer switch - instant start) On the > engine-driven pump outlet fitting, I have a smaller piggy-back fitting with > a restrictor that routes back to the left hand tank. This is supposed to > take the bubbles away before they get to the carb. A small ball valve allow > me to turn off the return line. > > Having installed this sytem, I have had no reason to use it for its intended > purpose - that is, eliminating vapour lock. Even in 40 degree C temps. > May well be different if I was using mogas. ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:50:29 AM PST US From: "Trampas" Subject: RE: RV-List: to polyfuse.... or not --> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" As far as the poly fuses go, why do you check the datasheets: http://rocky.digikey.com/scripts/ProductInfo.dll?Site=US&V=47&M=RUE900 Here the datasheets state that the current rating of the switch is based upon the voltage rating. That is at a lower voltage the fuse is rated higher. They then leave it up to the engineer to determine the actually rating for your application. Regards, Trampas -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv6tc Subject: Re: RV-List: to polyfuse.... or not --> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" No, no, no... the Kerry fuses decided to blow at 9 amps before they blew at 14 amps. H do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: to polyfuse.... or not > --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com > > > In a message dated 9/14/2004 5:13:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time, > cgalley@qcbc.org writes: > > Maybe they are Kerry amps and it depends which day you use them! > > > ========================================= > > Or Bush Amps that just decided to take a year off without leave! > > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs) > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:53:31 AM PST US From: bertrv6@highstream.net Subject: RV-List: Kit plane magazine --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net Hi: There is a very good article on the last issue of Kit Planes magazine about, the accidents on Experimental Aircraft. Also a good article on Insuring our birds.... Bert rv6a Do not archive ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:00:00 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors From: "Valovich, Paul" --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I deferred. Paul Valovich ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:15:42 AM PST US From: "Doug Brinlee" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressors --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Brinlee" Paul, I am about to buy a compressor for my project. If you search Campbell Hausfeld rebuilt on the net you will find a site that you can buy reconditioned like new compressors. Free ship and no tax. A 20 gallon direct drive will cost you 200.00 and you can buy a 26 gallon direct drive for 250.00. They have a 60 gallon on sale for 399.00. I think a 26 gallon direct drive will work fine for most applications. Good luck Doug Brinlee 7A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Valovich, Paul" Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors > --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" > > I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion > on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV > construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in > Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models > because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon > model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I > deferred. > > Paul Valovich > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:32:31 AM PST US From: "DonEavesRV6" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressors --> RV-List message posted by: "DonEavesRV6" I agree with avoiding an oil-less unit - Noise! and it will not last as long - After my oil-less gave up, I bought a upright 230 V 50 gal unit from Sam's Club and it has lasted 6+ years with old forgetful leaving it on @ the hangar for a few weeks at a time. Whatever brand Sam's, Costco or ? has should do. A Name Brand will cost you more and most are build by 1 or 2 different co's anyway. Don Eaves RV6 Flying 250+- hrs. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Valovich, Paul" Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors > --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" > > I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion > on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV > construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in > Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models > because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon > model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I > deferred. > > Paul Valovich > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:36:59 AM PST US From: "Jack Ford" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re : fuel return line --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Ford" Jim, Not too many years ago, my friend Johnathan Crawford was flying a Beech (Whatever the cheap retractable was) when the electric pump failed and some of its components went into the mechanical pump and killed it. He dead sticked onto Brand Boulevard in Glendale, CA during rush hour. I think I'd prefer my pumps in parallel, rather than series. FWIW Jack Ford ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: Re : fuel return line > --> RV-List message posted by: > > My RV-6A (Scooter) has no gascolator and has no return line. I use mogas > most of the time. I'll add 100LL about once per year, or when the need > arises such as when I'm going to be doing a quick turnaround activity like > taking up Young Eagles. Then, I add about five gallons of 100LL per side. > Vapor lock has not been a show stopper. Of course, my having used mogas in > my airplanes since 1986 gave me a pretty good notion that it would work in > the RV. > > My fuel line goes from the tank to the fuel selector, on to the round Facet > pump on the engine side of the firewall, a T for the primer, on to the > mechanical pump, and on to the carb. Nothing special. I kept it simple. I > like to think that's what Van had in mind. :-) My new RV will have the > same setup. I don't see any need to change what works. > > Jim Sears in KY > RV-6A N198JS (Scooter - over 300 hours) > RV-7A #70317 (Building wings) > EAA Tech Counselor > > > I'll explain in a little more detail. I ran my engine fuel supply line > from > > the selector valve to a wing root-mounted gascolator, then Facet boost > pump, > > also in the wing root then to a T fitting on the firewall. One side goes > to > > the engine-driven pump and the other side goes to the primer solenoid > valve. > > ( Hit the boost pump button, then the primer switch - instant start) On > the > > engine-driven pump outlet fitting, I have a smaller piggy-back fitting > with > > a restrictor that routes back to the left hand tank. This is supposed to > > take the bubbles away before they get to the carb. A small ball valve > allow > > me to turn off the return line. > > > > Having installed this sytem, I have had no reason to use it for its > intended > > purpose - that is, eliminating vapour lock. Even in 40 degree C temps. > > May well be different if I was using mogas. > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:49:01 AM PST US From: "Doug Brinlee" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressors --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Brinlee" Correction to previous post on air compressors. The price I listed is for belt drive units. Not the noisy direct drive units...sorry for the mistake. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug Brinlee" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressors > --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Brinlee" > > Paul, > I am about to buy a compressor for my project. If you search Campbell > Hausfeld rebuilt on the net you will find a site that you can buy > reconditioned like new compressors. Free ship and no tax. A 20 gallon > direct drive will cost you 200.00 and you can buy a 26 gallon direct drive > for 250.00. They have a 60 gallon on sale for 399.00. I think a 26 gallon > direct drive will work fine for most applications. Good luck > Doug Brinlee 7A > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Valovich, Paul" > To: > Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" > > > > I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion > > on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV > > construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in > > Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models > > because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon > > model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I > > deferred. > > > > Paul Valovich > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:50:42 AM PST US From: George Neal E Capt AU/PC Subject: RE: RV-List: Air Compressors --> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC > an opinion on the type and brand of air compressor < I have an ancient American Champion that works very well. At 1-hp, it's considerably smaller than I would like, but I'm in cramped quarters, it's paid for, and it will do until I start sanding. Neal ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 07:51:51 AM PST US From: C P Subject: RV-List: WTB RV -6/6A or-7/7A --> RV-List message posted by: C P Hi, A friend of mine is having bad luck finding an RV for sale. An ex-military pilot, he likes the acrobatic feel with side-by-side seating of the -6 and -7 models. He doesn't care which end the third wheel is attached. He prefers IFR equipped. Please send me particulars and contact info! cheers, Chuck Packard YankeeRV10@yahoo.com _______________________________ Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today! http://vote.yahoo.com ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 07:53:58 AM PST US From: Dale Mitchell Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressors --> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell Get at least 5 HP and minium of 30 gallon and dont use an oilless. When cutting the canopy you will need the capicity to run a air cuttoff tool. IMHO. Dale Mitchell RV8A MN wing --- "Valovich, Paul" wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" > > > I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does > anyone have an opinion > on the type and brand of air compressor that is best > for RV > construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course > last weekend in > Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the > oilless models > because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night > and the 30 gallon > model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to > be oilless - so I > deferred. > > Paul Valovich > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > _______________________________ Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today! http://vote.yahoo.com ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 08:10:10 AM PST US From: "Chris Good" Subject: RV-List: High fuel pressure --> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" Listers, My EIS-4000 has started complaining about high fuel pressure recently. This is on an O-360-A1A with a carb & the standard low pressure engine driven fuel pump. In normal cruise, I get a fuel pressure reading somewhere between 2 & 5 psi, which is fine. The problem occurs intermittently when taxiing, & recently in the air when throttling back for a descent. The pressure climbs to 10-12 psi. Looking back a couple of years at my engine monitor logs, the pressure never used to exceed 6-7 psi. All the above readings are without the electric boost pump. In looking at the archives & other internet sources I found two suggestions: 1. The VDO pressure sensor is only good for 2-300 hrs. But this doesn't seem like a sensor problem as my cruise readings are normal. 2. The fuel pump pressure regulator is vented to the crankcase & high fuel pressure can be a symptom of breather blockage. This seems possible as I have a home-made oil separator on the breather. Maybe this is blocked & the engine is breathing through the whistle slot! I plan to check this in the next couple of days. Has anyone experienced this? Any other suggestions? Regards, Chris Good, West Bend, WI RV-6A, 775 hrs -- ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 08:19:09 AM PST US From: Bob J Subject: Re: RV-List: FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 --> RV-List message posted by: Bob J Tom, what does it weigh? Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying, F1 qb under const. On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 20:44:32 EDT, wfact01@aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com > > September 14th: The long awaited first flight of the Whelan Super 8 took > place at 13:15 in Bethlehem, CT. The aircraft performed flawlessly. Too bad we > won't make Reno this year. Many thanks to all who helped make this moment > possible, especially, Bill Benedict whose great friendship and eternal faith in this > project will never be forgotten. Special thanks also go out to Dan Decker, > the best rivet bucker in the business. Better mention the wife (PJ) too for her > infinite patience. > > Aircraft Background: IO540 S1AD, 300+++ Horsepower, Air Flow Performance > Injection, Light Speed Ignition, Carbon Fiber Cowls and many more mods than we > don't have time to disclose. Mark F. "We can't wait." > > Regards, > Tom > > Tom Whelan > Whelan Farms Airport > President EAA Chapter 1097 > wfact01@aol.com > 249 Hard Hill Road North > PO Box 426 > Bethlehem, CT 06751 > Tel: 203-266-5300 > Fax: 202-266-5140 > EAA Technical/Flight Advisor > RV-8 540 LYC (Just Flew 9/14, Look Out!) > S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction) > > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 08:23:40 AM PST US From: "steve zicree" Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressors --> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" Certain tools use a ton of air, but are real nice to have. For example, hand held disc sanders. I originally had a small oil-free type and was constantly running short on air. I traded up to a bigger conventional and still had troubles. The problem went away when I bought a conventional type, 220 volt model. The 220 volt motors will last a lot longer and produce way more air. I think mine puts out about 6 horsepower, which is plenty for all spraying and sanding. Smaller ones will work fine for riveting but will come up short on high consumption tools. Mine came from Home Depot. Steve Zicree Finishing kit, RV4 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Valovich, Paul" Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors > --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" > > I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion > on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV > construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in > Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models > because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon > model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I > deferred. > > Paul Valovich > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 08:31:18 AM PST US From: "Sims, Doug" Subject: RE: RV-List: Air Compressors --> RV-List message posted by: "Sims, Doug" I agree! Although I still have my 20G Sears unit, it needs it's own 20amp circuit and doesn't work well in the cold. over the long run you will be much better off without the oiless. Spend the extra $100 it's worth it. RV8 -----Original Message----- From: DonEavesRV6 [mailto:DonEavesRV6@midsouth.rr.com] Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressors --> RV-List message posted by: "DonEavesRV6" I agree with avoiding an oil-less unit - Noise! and it will not last as long - After my oil-less gave up, I bought a upright 230 V 50 gal unit from Sam's Club and it has lasted 6+ years with old forgetful leaving it on @ the hangar for a few weeks at a time. Whatever brand Sam's, Costco or ? has should do. A Name Brand will cost you more and most are build by 1 or 2 different co's anyway. Don Eaves RV6 Flying 250+- hrs. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Valovich, Paul" Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors > --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" > > I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an opinion > on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV > construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in > Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models > because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon > model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I > deferred. > > Paul Valovich > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 08:53:27 AM PST US From: Trainnut01@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com I saw an ad recently for some alumunum fairings that install over the rudder cables where they exit the fuselage. Now I can't remember where I saw them. Can someone help me over a senior moment? Carroll Jernigan East TN 7A Fuselage do not archive ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 08:57:52 AM PST US From: Jim Duckett Subject: RV-List: Air Compressors --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett To Paul and Doug, When shopping for a compressor one of the primary things to be aware of is the capacity of the compressor itself. Many are advertised by horsepower rather than what they flow. I've seen 5H.P. compressors advertised anywhere from 3.6 to 12.5 CFM...Big Difference! and these flow rates vary in pressure from 35# to 90#. Most air tools consume anywhere from 1.5CFM for a 2X rivet gun operating at 25# to 12.5CFM for die grinders running line pressure. Depending on the make and model, paint guns eat a fair amount of air too, anywhere from 3 to 9CFM. Some of the cheap-o HVLP's can use more than a grinder. With that being said, I would recommend a compressor that flows at least 20% more than your highest normal use consumption at the highest pressure you intend to have for working pressure. Example, you plan on using all air tools in your shop as well as doing some painting. Lets say your normal consumption will be 7 CFM and your highest working pressure will be 90#. I would look for a compressor that flows at least 8.5 - 9 CFM @ 90#. Also make sure that the unit has a large enough tank so the compressor isn't running constantly. I would recommend that your tank is at least the size of your usage. Most tank are advertised in gallons instead of cubic feet. A cubic foot is 7.48 gallons. 9 X 7.48 gives you a tank size of approx. 67 Gallons. So in this case you would want to find a compressor that flows 9 CFM @ 90 # with a 60-70 gallon tank. I would also recommend that you look for a two-stage compressor. They tend to start easier, build up faster, and last longer with less maintenance than single stage and direct drives. Just a little input...Hope it helps! Jim Duckett, RV-7A N708JD Performance Engineering ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 09:00:03 AM PST US From: Richard Lundin Subject: Re: RV-List: FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Lundin Nice job Tom. I wish you were going to Reno this year. I was looking forward to seeing you race. Best to you, Rick L --- Bob J wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Bob J > > > Tom, what does it weigh? > > Regards, > Bob Japundza > RV-6 flying, F1 qb under const. > > > On Tue, 14 Sep 2004 20:44:32 EDT, wfact01@aol.com > wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com > > > > September 14th: The long awaited first flight of > the Whelan Super 8 took > > place at 13:15 in Bethlehem, CT. The aircraft > performed flawlessly. Too bad we > > won't make Reno this year. Many thanks to all who > helped make this moment > > possible, especially, Bill Benedict whose great > friendship and eternal faith in this > > project will never be forgotten. Special thanks > also go out to Dan Decker, > > the best rivet bucker in the business. Better > mention the wife (PJ) too for her > > infinite patience. > > > > Aircraft Background: IO540 S1AD, 300+++ > Horsepower, Air Flow Performance > > Injection, Light Speed Ignition, Carbon Fiber > Cowls and many more mods than we > > don't have time to disclose. Mark F. "We can't > wait." > > > > Regards, > > Tom > > > > Tom Whelan > > Whelan Farms Airport > > President EAA Chapter 1097 > > wfact01@aol.com > > 249 Hard Hill Road North > > PO Box 426 > > Bethlehem, CT 06751 > > Tel: 203-266-5300 > > Fax: 202-266-5140 > > EAA Technical/Flight Advisor > > RV-8 540 LYC (Just Flew 9/14, Look Out!) > > S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction) > > > > > > > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 09:02:10 AM PST US From: "John Helms" Subject: RV-List: Hurricane stuff 0.00 THE_BEST_RATE BODY: The best Rates --> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" Yes, hurricanes are covered by all the insurance companies. No, coverage is not contingent upon you moving the plane out of harms way. Remaining claim free is of benefit to you for future insurability at the best rates (yes, even though a resultant loss would be an act of God and not a judgement loss on your part, i.e. fuel exhaustion, etc.) I am posting this primarily to inform the vast majority of my policy holders in the VanGuard Program that effective immediately, Phoenix (the company which underwrites the VanGuard Program) has agreed to re-imburse their customers which carry full or Ground not in motion coverage on their planes for moving their planes out of a Hurricane Warning/Watch area. AIG is the only other company which currently offers this type of re-imbursement, and the limitations (below) are almost identical. Phoenix's limitations: 1. Policy must already contain coverage F or G (Full inflight and ground or Ground not in motion). 2. Must be relocated to another airport that is at least 100 NMs outside the warning/watch area. 3. Reimbursement is limited to 50% of the total relocation cost (including ferry pilot if necessary) or $500 whichever is less. $1000 max per year. Phoenix nor any of the other companies will add physical damage coverage to policies in the affected areas, nor will they start new policies in those areas currently. No need to call and tell your agent your are or want to do this. Just keep the receipts for gas, tied down costs, and other expenses, and contact your agent after returning to your homebase to coordinate the reimbursement. Sorry to be so brief, but my girls' daycare provider is sick, and I must go get them. If you're insured elsewhere but through Phoenix or AIG, please call your agent for more details. If you are insured by NationAir, any agent here in my office can explain it to you further. JT ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 09:26:38 AM PST US From: Subject: Re: RV-List: Re : fuel return line --> RV-List message posted by: Jack, the fuel system in series is pretty standard amongst the commercially built aircraft I've seen. I've been flying since 1982 and haven't heard of that happening, before. I'm sure things like that can happen. However, I'd prefer to keep the fuel system simple and take the almost no risk of having one trash the other. Adding complexity to a system can oftentimes cause more problems than KISS. However, do what you have to do to make you have warm fuzzies. I'll stick with what works for me, which is having the fuel system components in series. Van's RV-6A drawings show the fuel system components in series, as well. Thanks for the input, though. Jim Sears in KY > Not too many years ago, my friend Johnathan Crawford was flying a Beech > (Whatever the cheap retractable was) when the electric pump failed and some > of its components went into the mechanical pump and killed it. > He dead sticked onto Brand Boulevard in Glendale, CA during rush hour. > I think I'd prefer my pumps in parallel, rather than series. > FWIW ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 09:33:22 AM PST US From: Jerry2DT@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Vetterman Exhaust --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com List, I'd like to compliment Larry Vetterman. I ordered my system from him at Van's Homecoming on Sept. 4th. He said it would arrive in "2-3 weeks". The brown van showed up yesterday , with the entire system. He flew home to SD, fabbed my system, shipped it, and arrived here in 10 days. Don't you just love folks who under-promise and over-perform? Thanks Larry!!! Not only that, but this thing is a work of art, everything fit with no mods at all. I had it bolted up to the engine in 15 min. Clearances are perfect for my engine. Needless to say, Vetterman Exhaust is highly recommended. Jerry Cochran RV6a/XPIO-360 Wilsonville, OR ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 09:35:16 AM PST US From: "Doug Rozendaal" Subject: Re: RV-List: High fuel pressure --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" Chris. I had trouble with my Rocky sensor, reading high oil pressure, also a VDO and it turned out it was a bad connection. The Rocky reads higher pressure as lower resistance, ie an open reads top of scale. I assume yours is the same. Doug ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Good" Subject: RV-List: High fuel pressure > --> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" > > Listers, > > My EIS-4000 has started complaining about high fuel pressure recently. This is on an O-360-A1A with a carb & the standard low pressure engine driven fuel pump. In normal cruise, I get a fuel pressure reading somewhere between 2 & 5 psi, which is fine. The problem occurs intermittently when taxiing, & recently in the air when throttling back for a descent. The pressure climbs to 10-12 psi. > > Looking back a couple of years at my engine monitor logs, the pressure never used to exceed 6-7 psi. All the above readings are without the electric boost pump. > > In looking at the archives & other internet sources I found two suggestions: > > 1. The VDO pressure sensor is only good for 2-300 hrs. But this doesn't seem like a sensor problem as my cruise readings are normal. > > 2. The fuel pump pressure regulator is vented to the crankcase & high fuel pressure can be a symptom of breather blockage. This seems possible as I have a home-made oil separator on the breather. Maybe this is blocked & the engine is breathing through the whistle slot! I plan to check this in the next couple of days. > > Has anyone experienced this? Any other suggestions? > > Regards, > > Chris Good, > West Bend, WI > RV-6A, 775 hrs > -- > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 09:35:34 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Air Compressors From: --> RV-List message posted by: I am also on empennage, after web research and in store comparison settled on 5 HP and 20 gal tank, 30 gallon is better if you have space. 20 gallon is OK for everything except air cutoff tool (intermittent use only). Get belt drive (much, much quieter) and cast iron compressor. The unit I got from Lowes is rated continuous duty cycle with 3 year warranty cost $350. Dave Figgins RV-7A empennage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Mitchell Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Compressors --> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell Get at least 5 HP and minium of 30 gallon and dont use an oilless. When cutting the canopy you will need the capicity to run a air cuttoff tool. IMHO. Dale Mitchell RV8A MN wing --- "Valovich, Paul" wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" > > > I am about to order my RV-8A emphanage kit. Does anyone have an > opinion on the type and brand of air compressor that is best for RV > construction? I attended the EAA RV Builder's Course last weekend in > Corona where the general consensus was to avoid the oilless models > because of noise. Went to the local Sears last night and the 30 gallon > model I almost bought ($299 on sale) turned out to be oilless - so I > deferred. > > Paul Valovich > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > _______________________________ Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today! http://vote.yahoo.com == direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. == == == ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 09:45:07 AM PST US From: Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan Trainnut01@aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com > > I saw an ad recently for some alumunum fairings that install over the rudder > cables where they exit the fuselage. Now I can't remember where I saw them. > Can someone help me over a senior moment? > Carroll Jernigan > East TN > 7A Fuselage These fairings are very easy to make out of scrap material: http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/fuse8.html Sam Buchanan ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 10:17:44 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Why not just make your own out of .016" aluminum....it's way too easy. I copied Sam Buchanan, if I remember correctly. See the photos at the bottom of this page: http://www.rvproject.com/20030209.html )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (219 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings > --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com > > I saw an ad recently for some alumunum fairings that install over the rudder > cables where they exit the fuselage. Now I can't remember where I saw them. > Can someone help me over a senior moment? > Carroll Jernigan > East TN > 7A Fuselage > > do not archive > > ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 10:48:53 AM PST US From: "Karen and Robert Brown" Subject: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame --> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" Hi everyone, I'm happy to be back on the list after a 6 month absence, moving (the plane was unscathed) and getting back to work. I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws. I noticed in an earlier post from Jim Duckett in Nov. of 2001 the mention of using a product from FUSOR. In that post, Jim mentioned that adhesive manufacturer had a brand that GM uses to glue the door hinges onto the door posts in its new vehicles. Details of that post are in the archives. While all of us are building "plans built" aircraft, and the plans call for screws to be used to attach the canopy to the frame, I think the case can be made that using an adhesive might save time and might eliminate issues with cracking, while still performing the most critical task -- keeping the canopy attached to the frame in flight... I believe this is how all plexi is fixed into canopies and window panels of modern jet aircraft of almost all types, surely we can find an adhesive suitable for our application. I believe I heard that builders in South Africa were using this technique, but could find nothing like that in the archives, so maybe I was imagining it. Does anyone have real information on this?? Bob Brown Independence, OR RV-7AQB (finish) ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 11:07:53 AM PST US From: "czechsix@juno.com" Subject: RV-List: grass runway smoothness for RV operations --> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" Guys, Is there any rule of thumb to know whether a grass strip is smooth enough to operate an RV out of? In this case I'm talking about a strip that is a couple years old and has only had a Cub and Stinson fly in and out of it, both of which fly slower and have bigger tires than an RV. The strip has has never been rolled, and never had an RV or anything with smaller wheels land on it...the owner expressed some concern about the RV landing on it but he isn't too familiar with the RV design so I don't know if his concerns are justified. Is there any sort of objective criteria one can use before landing an RV on it to determine whether it's smooth enough? Thanks, --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D finishing... Get your name as your email address. Includes spam protection, 1GB storage, no ads and more Only $1.99/ month - visit http://www.mysite.com/name today! ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 11:12:23 AM PST US From: "Sims, Doug" Subject: RE: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "Sims, Doug" Try Avery Tools -----Original Message----- From: Trainnut01@aol.com [mailto:Trainnut01@aol.com] Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com I saw an ad recently for some alumunum fairings that install over the rudder cables where they exit the fuselage. Now I can't remember where I saw them. Can someone help me over a senior moment? Carroll Jernigan East TN 7A Fuselage do not archive ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 11:44:59 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" In my Super 8 section, under interesting. You will see some photos of a glue job on an 8 canopy. http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm Mike Do not archive. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karen and Robert Brown Subject: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame --> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" Hi everyone, I'm happy to be back on the list after a 6 month absence, moving (the plane was unscathed) and getting back to work. I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws. I noticed in an earlier post from Jim Duckett in Nov. of 2001 the mention of using a product from FUSOR. In that post, Jim mentioned that adhesive manufacturer had a brand that GM uses to glue the door hinges onto the door posts in its new vehicles. Details of that post are in the archives. While all of us are building "plans built" aircraft, and the plans call for screws to be used to attach the canopy to the frame, I think the case can be made that using an adhesive might save time and might eliminate issues with cracking, while still performing the most critical task -- keeping the canopy attached to the frame in flight... I believe this is how all plexi is fixed into canopies and window panels of modern jet aircraft of almost all types, surely we can find an adhesive suitable for our application. I believe I heard that builders in South Africa were using this technique, but could find nothing like that in the archives, so maybe I was imagining it. Does anyone have real information on this?? Bob Brown Independence, OR RV-7AQB (finish) == == == == ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 12:00:07 PM PST US From: "steve zicree" Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" I bought some and they were definitely from either Cleavland Tools or Avery Tools. Steve Zicree ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings > --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com > > I saw an ad recently for some alumunum fairings that install over the rudder > cables where they exit the fuselage. Now I can't remember where I saw them. > Can someone help me over a senior moment? > Carroll Jernigan > East TN > 7A Fuselage > > do not archive > > > > ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 12:15:45 PM PST US From: "Charles Rowbotham" Subject: RE: RV-List: FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" Tom, CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (Westerly, RI) >From: WFACT01@aol.com >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: FIRST FLIGHT - WHELAN SUPER 8 >Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 20:44:32 EDT > >--> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com > >September 14th: The long awaited first flight of the Whelan Super 8 took >place at 13:15 in Bethlehem, CT. The aircraft performed flawlessly. Too >bad we >won't make Reno this year. Many thanks to all who helped make this moment >possible, especially, Bill Benedict whose great friendship and eternal >faith in this >project will never be forgotten. Special thanks also go out to Dan Decker, >the best rivet bucker in the business. Better mention the wife (PJ) too for >her >infinite patience. > >Aircraft Background: IO540 S1AD, 300+++ Horsepower, Air Flow Performance >Injection, Light Speed Ignition, Carbon Fiber Cowls and many more mods than >we >don't have time to disclose. Mark F. "We can't wait." > >Regards, >Tom > > >Tom Whelan >Whelan Farms Airport >President EAA Chapter 1097 On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 01:05:37 PM PST US From: "George Steube" Subject: RE: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame --> RV-List message posted by: "George Steube" Mike, Interesting process, but Barefoot Billy didn't say what he used as glue. Can you find out what used and pass it on to the rest of the group. Thanks. George -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) Subject: RE: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" In my Super 8 section, under interesting. You will see some photos of a glue job on an 8 canopy. http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm Mike Do not archive. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karen and Robert Brown Subject: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame --> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" Hi everyone, I'm happy to be back on the list after a 6 month absence, moving (the plane was unscathed) and getting back to work. I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws. I noticed in an earlier post from Jim Duckett in Nov. of 2001 the mention of using a product from FUSOR. In that post, Jim mentioned that adhesive manufacturer had a brand that GM uses to glue the door hinges onto the door posts in its new vehicles. Details of that post are in the archives. While all of us are building "plans built" aircraft, and the plans call for screws to be used to attach the canopy to the frame, I think the case can be made that using an adhesive might save time and might eliminate issues with cracking, while still performing the most critical task -- keeping the canopy attached to the frame in flight... I believe this is how all plexi is fixed into canopies and window panels of modern jet aircraft of almost all types, surely we can find an adhesive suitable for our application. I believe I heard that builders in South Africa were using this technique, but could find nothing like that in the archives, so maybe I was imagining it. Does anyone have real information on this?? Bob Brown Independence, OR RV-7AQB (finish) == == == == ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 01:05:45 PM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com In a message dated 9/15/04 12:49:52 PM Central Daylight Time, bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com writes: > I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there > are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws. FWIW, I used proseal to attach both canopy parts (tip-up) to the canopy frame and cabin frame (rollbar) to avoid exposed screws or holes in the plexi. (Screws and proseal were used for the rear skin and sides of the canopy frame) Due (I believe) to the different expansion rates of the aluminum rollbar and the plexi, as soon as the plane was exposed to some real heat in direct sunlight, the proseal separated from the plexi in some areas of the rollbar, but has held nicely to the canopy frame, which is less rigid than the rollbar. I didn't scuff the plexi prior to application which may have contributed to the separation, just thoroughly cleaned it. Other materials may hold better, but I would be concerned about the stresses from temperature variation. I you're doing a slider, this may not be as much of an issue, however....... From The PossumWorks in TN Mark -6A, 110 hours & waiting for call from painter! ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 01:36:33 PM PST US From: Mickey Coggins Subject: RE: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins Hi, I'm planning on doing this with my RV8. I don't have the details from the kitplanes article by the South African guy, but I did find some information on the web site that supplies the glue he used. I copied it onto my web site in case they move theirs: http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040515213437823 Their URL is http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-marine-window-295 The stuff from "Barefoot Billy" Waters looks great - I'll try to contact him for more details. Additionally, I met a German guy with an RV6 http://www.rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Interlaken04&id=DSC01822 who glued on his canopy using the same stuff. Been flying with no trouble for about 6 years, IIRC. I'm sure this will be the recommended way to attach the canopy to the frame in about 5-10 years! :-) Mickey >In my Super 8 section, under interesting. You will see some photos of a >glue job on an 8 canopy. >http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm > > >>I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if >>there are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using >>screws. ... > >-- >Mickey Coggins >http://www.rv8.ch/ >#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 02:13:39 PM PST US From: Richard Tasker Subject: Re: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker Take a look at the January 2004 issue of EAA Sport Aviation. There is an article there about installing your canopy with Sikaflex 295UV adhesive. Also see http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040515213437823 and http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv9-list/Digest.RV9-List.2004-01-27.txt I am going to use this (Sikaflex 295UV) to attach my canopy. Will let the group know how it comes out. Dick Tasker Karen and Robert Brown wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" > >Hi everyone, I'm happy to be back on the list after a 6 month absence, moving (the plane was unscathed) and getting back to work. > >I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws. I noticed in an earlier post from Jim Duckett in Nov. of 2001 the mention of using a product from FUSOR. In that post, Jim mentioned that adhesive manufacturer had a brand that GM uses to glue the door hinges onto the door posts in its new vehicles. Details of that post are in the archives. > >While all of us are building "plans built" aircraft, and the plans call for screws to be used to attach the canopy to the frame, I think the case can be made that using an adhesive might save time and might eliminate issues with cracking, while still performing the most critical task -- keeping the canopy attached to the frame in flight... I believe this is how all plexi is fixed into canopies and window panels of modern jet aircraft of almost all types, surely we can find an adhesive suitable for our application. I believe I heard that builders in South Africa were using this technique, but could find nothing like that in the archives, so maybe I was imagining it. > >Does anyone have real information on this?? > > >Bob Brown >Independence, OR >RV-7AQB (finish) > > > > ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 03:17:12 PM PST US From: Gert Subject: Re: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame --> RV-List message posted by: Gert Here is an exerp of an earlier email with glue info sent before I actually glued it. I have since glued the canopy on with good results, The one thing i would do differently is to glue the canopy on with bare minimum of glue, let this set, then go back and backfill and smooth out. for better astetics. my canopy moved a tad too much and it was hard to get an even looking result. Hi Todd Yes I definitely will try and glue. Matter of fact, talked with SIKA, the folks mentioned in my previous email and the Sport Aviation article. (Steve @ 1-888-832-7452). Very, very nice person. First words were "Sorry, we do not support your application", right after that, " now that I have said that, how can I really help you............" We talked for a while, Steve mentioned that his phone has been ringing off the hook ever since the Sport Aviation article came out. He kinda jokingly grumbled that he has had more response to an article SIKA did not write for, a use SIKA does not support in a magazine SIKA did not know about than what his total advertisement budget generated last year. Steve said I should very carefully read the info at http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-marine-window-295. and recommended to use SIKA 209 to cover the plexi to make it opaque, SIKA 226 for cleaning the frame and SIKAFLEX 295UV BLACK for gluing the canopy on, trying to get at least 1/8" space between the canopy and the frame. He recommends that all structural bonding is done in the BLACK urethane as it has much better UV properties. if needed, one can make filets with WHITE urethane over the black stuff, 295UV comes in black and white colors. Most places I called would only sell a case of 12 10-ounce tubes of the 295UV, Again Steve to the rescue......Jamestown Distributors @ 800-423-0030 will sell you individually, pricing: about 12 for a tube of 295UV black or white, 31 for a pint of 209 and 11 for a pint of 226. So, that's what I ordered, tube o' black&white, 226 and 209. One could say I am now committed ;-) Took me a weekend to cut the canopy. Agony, agony, agony, lots of sweat.................. if there is one thing I would do different is to not cut the rear of the canopy, till I have the front close. Originally, my canopy did not even cover half the tubes on the side frames of the slider. by dropping the front 1/8" at the time I brought the sides of the canopy till just even with the bottom of the frame. This however did 2 things, one it brought the highest point of the canopy forward as it is sliding over the roll-over bar, and two, it pulls the rear of the canopy forward. I had cut some off the rear in an attempt to make the canopy come down as a whole. ( I am 6'6", I need all the headroom I can have ;-) Well, there you have it, my experience so far for posterity, to pass along if you so wish. I will let you know what transpires when I get to the gluing bit. Let me know if you can milk any info out of Charlie, Sure would like to know what sticks better to plexi and canopy frames than Kryptonite to Superman. Gert Mickey Coggins wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins > > Hi, > > I'm planning on doing this with my RV8. I don't have the > details from the kitplanes article by the South African > guy, but I did find some information on the web site that > supplies the glue he used. I copied it onto my web site > in case they move theirs: > > http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040515213437823 > > Their URL is http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-marine-window-295 > > The stuff from "Barefoot Billy" Waters looks great - I'll > try to contact him for more details. > > Additionally, I met a German guy with an RV6 > http://www.rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Interlaken04&id=DSC01822 > who glued on his canopy using the same stuff. Been flying > with no trouble for about 6 years, IIRC. > > I'm sure this will be the recommended way to attach the > canopy to the frame in about 5-10 years! :-) > > Mickey > > > >>In my Super 8 section, under interesting. You will see some photos of a >>glue job on an 8 canopy. >>http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm >> >> >> >>>I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if >>>there are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using >>>screws. ... >> >>-- >>Mickey Coggins >>http://www.rv8.ch/ >>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage > > > > > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 03:44:30 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Remove Aileron Twist From: "" --> RV-List message posted by: "" All, I posted a message a few days about aileron twist, and I thought I would follow up with the results. After initially riveting the top surface of my RV7A aileron, I found that I had around 1/8" twist in the trailing edge. The insructions say to flip it over, weigh it down, then pop-rivet the bottom side. I basically did just that, but I used a LOT of weight. I cut a nice, flat board to the width of the aileron and loaded it down with four 25 lb bags of lead shot (distributed across board). That obviously kept the aileron flat on the table, while I proceeded to finish riveting the bottom edge. When I was finished, the edge came out perfectly straight...a maximum of 0.04" twist. FWIW... Thanks for the help, Scott 7A Wings - Flaps are all that's left www.scottsrv7a.com Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 03:44:30 PM PST US From: "Brian Denk" Subject: RV-List: Any RV8's in Phoenix for fit-check of large RV buyer? --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" Listers, I have been contacted by a prospective RV8 buyer who wants to try one on for size. He's a large guy and will be in Phoenix this coming weekend. Please reply to Larry at lwinger@earthlink.net Thanks, Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 do not archive ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 04:39:47 PM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: grass runway smoothness for RV operations --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > > Guys, > > Is there any rule of thumb to know whether a grass strip is > smooth enough to operate an RV out of? In this case I'm > talking about a strip that is a couple years old and has only > had a Cub and Stinson fly in and out of it, both of which fly > slower and have bigger tires than an RV. The strip has has > never been rolled, and never had an RV or anything with > smaller wheels land on it...the owner expressed some concern > about the RV landing on it but he isn't too familiar with the > RV design so I don't know if his concerns are justified. Is > there any sort of objective criteria one can use before > landing an RV on it to determine whether it's smooth enough? > > Thanks, > > --Mark Navratil > Cedar Rapids, Iowa > RV-8A N2D finishing... Mark, This has come up before on this list. Generally, I don't think the wheel size is the limitation in our case, the localized holes better not be so big as to be a problem. The problem comes with undulations in the strip, and the resonant frequency of the trigear setup. The trigears will really get into pitch oscillations with the right combination of speed, balance and waves in the strip. Don't try to correct for them with elevator, just freeze the elevator at the takeoff position and ride them out. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 522 hours http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 05:57:09 PM PST US From: "cgalley" Subject: Re: RV-List: grass runway smoothness for RV operations --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" Mark Navratil, I would talk to Ron White, TC for Chapter 33. As you know he flies a Long Ez. He and his wife Connie fly into the grass Village Oaks airstrip at Blue Grass Iowa without any problems. With that said it is a smooth strip. I'd have Ron look at your proposed strip. I know you can depend on what he says as he is very conservative. Cy Galley - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot Chapter 75 Rock Island, IL ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: grass runway smoothness for RV operations > --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > > > > > Guys, > > > > Is there any rule of thumb to know whether a grass strip is > > smooth enough to operate an RV out of? In this case I'm > > talking about a strip that is a couple years old and has only > > had a Cub and Stinson fly in and out of it, both of which fly > > slower and have bigger tires than an RV. The strip has has > > never been rolled, and never had an RV or anything with > > smaller wheels land on it...the owner expressed some concern > > about the RV landing on it but he isn't too familiar with the > > RV design so I don't know if his concerns are justified. Is > > there any sort of objective criteria one can use before > > landing an RV on it to determine whether it's smooth enough? > > > > Thanks, > > > > --Mark Navratil > > Cedar Rapids, Iowa > > RV-8A N2D finishing... > > Mark, > This has come up before on this list. Generally, I don't think the > wheel size is the limitation in our case, the localized holes better not > be so big as to be a problem. The problem comes with undulations in the > strip, and the resonant frequency of the trigear setup. The trigears > will really get into pitch oscillations with the right combination of > speed, balance and waves in the strip. Don't try to correct for them > with elevator, just freeze the elevator at the takeoff position and ride > them out. > > Alex Peterson > Maple Grove, MN > RV6-A N66AP 522 hours > > http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ > > ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ Time: 06:01:15 PM PST US From: Gert "RV-8@yahoogroups.com" Subject: RV-List: spraylat removal --> RV-List message posted by: Gert Hi Folks I am trying to remove my spraylat layer from my canopy. it's coming off over about 90 percent of the canopy with no problem......however...on the remaining 10 percent it sticks better to the plexi than kryptonite to superman!! Does anybody have a good suggestion/solution to persuade the spraylat from letting go of the canopy??? Thanks in advance. Gert -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________ Message 42 ____________________________________ Time: 06:11:24 PM PST US From: Nels Hanson Subject: Re: RV-List: grass runway smoothness for RV operations --> RV-List message posted by: Nels Hanson I walk my grass strip every once in awhile to check for ground squirrel holes,ect. If it is bumpy to your feet,it is going to chatter your wheel pants. Best bet is to wait for a good rain and then get some asphalt company to come out with a vibratory roller and beat the bumps back into the ground. It is well worth the $300-$400 it might cost. You should only have to do this once a year. Since you are in a freeze thaw area I could see this happening every spring. The key is getting a very large roller or one that is vibratory. --- "czechsix@juno.com" wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" > > > > Guys, > > Is there any rule of thumb to know whether a grass > strip is smooth enough to operate an RV out of? In > this case I'm talking about a strip that is a couple > years old and has only had a Cub and Stinson fly in > and out of it, both of which fly slower and have > bigger tires than an RV. The strip has has never > been rolled, and never had an RV or anything with > smaller wheels land on it...the owner expressed some > concern about the RV landing on it but he isn't too > familiar with the RV design so I don't know if his > concerns are justified. Is there any sort of > objective criteria one can use before landing an RV > on it to determine whether it's smooth enough? > > Thanks, > > --Mark Navratil > Cedar Rapids, Iowa > RV-8A N2D finishing... > > Get your name as your email address. > Includes spam protection, 1GB storage, no ads and > more > Only $1.99/ month - visit http://www.mysite.com/name > today! > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/chat > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > _______________________________ Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today! http://vote.yahoo.com ________________________________ Message 43 ____________________________________ Time: 06:52:17 PM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: grass runway smoothness for RV operations --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com Mark, Having not the wisdom to ask this question on the List, I have been landing on a surface like you describe with no problems. I wish it were smoother, but the RV seems to take the roughness pretty well. I would advise about 3/4 inch of clearance around the tires. I run 35 psi tire pressure in all 3 (tri-gear). I have an IO-360 up front and the nose wheel carries quite a lot of weight, so I keep back stick as much as possible when landing -- takeoffs too for that matter, except the plane just goes up if I do that! BTW has anyone put 6.00 x 6s on the mains? There seems to be plenty of room in the wheel fairings for the larger tires, and it would seem to help us country boys. Dan Hopper RV-7A N766DH flying about 43 hours now. In a message dated 9/15/04 1:08:58 PM US Eastern Standard Time, czechsix@juno.com writes: > --> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" > > > Guys, > > Is there any rule of thumb to know whether a grass strip is smooth enough to > operate an RV out of? In this case I'm talking about a strip that is a > couple years old and has only had a Cub and Stinson fly in and out of it, both of > which fly slower and have bigger tires than an RV. The strip has has never > been rolled, and never had an RV or anything with smaller wheels land on > it...the owner expressed some concern about the RV landing on it but he isn't too > familiar with the RV design so I don't know if his concerns are justified. > Is there any sort of objective criteria one can use before landing an RV on > it to determine whether it's smooth enough? > > Thanks, > > --Mark Navratil > Cedar Rapids, Iowa > RV-8A N2D finishing... > > ________________________________ Message 44 ____________________________________ Time: 06:53:18 PM PST US From: "Tim Bryan" Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" It is definately Avery were I got mine and they were reasonable to buy. Comes with three, two for the rudder cables and a third as a spare or for the trim cable exit. Tim Bryan RV-6 N616TB -------Original Message------- From: rv-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" I bought some and they were definitely from either Cleavland Tools or Avery Tools. Steve Zicree ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings > --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com > > I saw an ad recently for some alumunum fairings that install over the rudder > cables where they exit the fuselage. Now I can't remember where I saw them. > Can someone help me over a senior moment? > Carroll Jernigan > East TN > 7A Fuselage > > do not archive > > > > ________________________________ Message 45 ____________________________________ Time: 07:25:19 PM PST US From: Leelesher@cs.com Subject: RV-List: wood prop --> RV-List message posted by: Leelesher@cs.com Someone e-mailed me asking about my wood prop on an IO-360 and I have lost the address. Please e-mail again. Lee Lesher RV-8 Flying ________________________________ Message 46 ____________________________________ Time: 07:52:38 PM PST US From: "Charles Rowbotham" Subject: RE: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" Bob, We used SemWeld from 3M - came in a caulking type tube (you'll need one their caulking type guns - see if you can borrow one from an Auto body shop). We have 300+ hours on our canopy -No issues. It can also be painted. You might want to check the archives under my name back in 2001 - I'm pretty sure I posted a report on it. Please email me off line if you have any questions. Chuck Rowbotham RV-8A >From: "Karen and Robert Brown" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame >Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2004 10:56:01 -0700 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" > > >Hi everyone, I'm happy to be back on the list after a 6 month absence, >moving (the plane was unscathed) and getting back to work. > >I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there >are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws. I >noticed in an earlier post from Jim Duckett in Nov. of 2001 the mention of >using a product from FUSOR. In that post, Jim mentioned that adhesive >manufacturer had a brand that GM uses to glue the door hinges onto the door >posts in its new vehicles. Details of that post are in the archives. > >While all of us are building "plans built" aircraft, and the plans call for >screws to be used to attach the canopy to the frame, I think the case can >be made that using an adhesive might save time and might eliminate issues >with cracking, while still performing the most critical task -- keeping the >canopy attached to the frame in flight... I believe this is how all plexi >is fixed into canopies and window panels of modern jet aircraft of almost >all types, surely we can find an adhesive suitable for our application. I >believe I heard that builders in South Africa were using this technique, >but could find nothing like that in the archives, so maybe I was imagining >it. > >Does anyone have real information on this?? > > >Bob Brown >Independence, OR >RV-7AQB (finish) ________________________________ Message 47 ____________________________________ Time: 08:35:22 PM PST US From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: RV-List: enabling approaches on UPSAT GX50 --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" I spoke with the Garmin folks about my gx50 today because I couldnt get approaches enabled. I was told the faa must first certify the install, then the instller can make the switch. Has anyone done this? I dont have the install manual with me now? Shemp 6a Chicago/Louisville ________________________________ Message 48 ____________________________________ Time: 09:01:51 PM PST US From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" Are you Definately Sure?? Because as far as I could tell, Orndorff sells a set of 3 for $10.75+s/h, but none to be found on Avery's site or Clevelands site? Also, has everyone just completely ignored Sam B. & Dan C's posts about making them yourself?? They really only take a few minutes to whip out and are really simple to make (plus you'll never have to worry about a "spare"). Save yourself $15.00 and make a few out of scrap..... Just my 2 cents (and a few others as well). Cheers, Stein -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Bryan Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" It is definately Avery were I got mine and they were reasonable to buy. Comes with three, two for the rudder cables and a third as a spare or for the trim cable exit. Tim Bryan RV-6 N616TB -------Original Message------- From: rv-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" I bought some and they were definitely from either Cleavland Tools or Avery Tools. Steve Zicree ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings > --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com > > I saw an ad recently for some alumunum fairings that install over the rudder > cables where they exit the fuselage. Now I can't remember where I saw them. > Can someone help me over a senior moment? > Carroll Jernigan > East TN > 7A Fuselage > > do not archive > > > > ________________________________ Message 49 ____________________________________ Time: 09:34:53 PM PST US From: "steven dinieri" Subject: RE: RV-List: spraylat removal --> RV-List message posted by: "steven dinieri" Gert, the spraylat is hard to remove when it's too thin to peel. Try masking small areas around the offending spraylat and apply a good heavy coat to dry overnight. Then just peel off in the morning.. Steve Hi Folks I am trying to remove my spraylat layer from my canopy. it's coming off over about 90 percent of the canopy with no problem......however...on the remaining 10 percent it sticks better to the plexi than kryptonite to superman!! Does anybody have a good suggestion/solution to persuade the spraylat from letting go of the canopy??? Thanks in advance. Gert -- ________________________________ Message 50 ____________________________________ Time: 09:34:53 PM PST US From: Hal / Carol Kempthorne Subject: Re: RV-List: gluing canopy to frame --> RV-List message posted by: Hal / Carol Kempthorne At 10:56 AM 9/15/2004, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" > >I'd like to start a thread to investigate the wisdom (and results if there >are any) of gluing the canopy to the frame instead of using screws. Use a glue known to be kind to acrylic. Many resins are not. The wrong stuff can cause crazing and even cracking, neither of which are desirable. I suppose epoxy must be okay since it is the choice for windshield fairings attach. K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now. PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________ Message 51 ____________________________________ Time: 09:49:41 PM PST US From: Bruno Subject: RV-List: DYNON D10A & ENCODER PROTOCOL --> RV-List message posted by: Bruno Hello All Are there any listers who have installed a Dynon D10A lately and used the serial encoder for a Garmin GTX 327? Which protocol did you used and was it worth it. I presently have an Ameriking AK-350 blind encoder connected to my GTX 327 and it's working fine. So I'm wondering if there are any advantages in using this feature? Also is there anyone with a web site with pictures of the Dynon's installation? As you know a picture is worth a 1000 words.... Thanks a lot for your imputs. Bruno Dionne C-GDBH RV-4 rv4@videotron.ca P.S# You may reply OFF list if you wish. ________________________________ Message 52 ____________________________________ Time: 10:52:13 PM PST US From: HCRV6@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Cable Fairings --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com I'm pretty sure Avery and Cleveland both carry them. Do not archive Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, final details