Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:47 AM - IO-360-A1B6D (RV8ter@aol.com)
2. 03:00 AM - Re: IO-360-A1B6D (R.A.S)
3. 04:06 AM - For Sale RV-6 Kit (gerald conrad)
4. 04:52 AM - alternators (Shirley Harding)
5. 05:21 AM - tail wheel spring wanted (PGLong@aol.com)
6. 05:22 AM - FAILED MAIN LANDING GEAR RV-8 (RV_8 Pilot)
7. 05:47 AM - Re: IO-360-A1B6D (Ralph E. Capen)
8. 06:36 AM - Re: IO-360-A1B6D (RV8ter@aol.com)
9. 08:32 AM - PAINTING THE GAS TANK (Crosley, Rich)
10. 08:35 AM - 3/32 blind rivets (russ@wernerworld.com)
11. 08:42 AM - Re: Another RV finally in the air. (Imfairings@aol.com)
12. 10:07 AM - Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK (Jim Duckett)
13. 10:09 AM - gear leg fairings (Donald Mei)
14. 10:44 AM - Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK (David E. Nelson)
15. 10:55 AM - Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK (Stein Bruch)
16. 11:03 AM - Re: 3/32 blind rivets (Ralph E. Capen)
17. 11:24 AM - Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK (steve zicree)
18. 12:36 PM - Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
19. 01:21 PM - Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK (SportAV8R@aol.com)
20. 01:28 PM - Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK (linn walters)
21. 03:08 PM - Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK (Jim Duckett)
22. 03:41 PM - Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
23. 04:00 PM - Re: 3/32 blind rivets (plaurence@the-beach.net)
24. 04:02 PM - Tuft Testing the RV wing (Wheeler North)
25. 04:12 PM - Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK (Craig Warner)
26. 04:34 PM - Gear Leg Fairings (Gabriel A Ferrer)
27. 05:12 PM - Re: Gear Leg Fairings (Vanremog@aol.com)
28. 05:17 PM - Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK (Vanremog@aol.com)
29. 05:26 PM - Re: Tuft Testing the RV wing (Gert)
30. 05:28 PM - Re: RV-6 sliding canopy weather seal (Vanremog@aol.com)
31. 05:48 PM - Re: Tuft Testing the RV wing (Richard Tasker)
32. 06:50 PM - Re: RV-6 sliding canopy weather seal (cgalley)
33. 07:38 PM - Re: Tuft Testing the RV wing (David Carter)
34. 08:26 PM - Re: Tuft Testing the RV wing (David Carter)
35. 09:32 PM - Re: RV-6 sliding canopy weather seal (JOHN STARN)
36. 09:44 PM - Pt. Mugu Air Show After Action Report (Tom Gummo)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
Where's online info on how to maintain and service the dual mag pack unique
to this model?
I searched the lycoming web site over the weekend but didn't find what I was
looking for.
Now that my engine is mounted, I see the ops manual that came with it is
really lacking the details I need.
Where can I find detailed info on this model such as 1) should there be a
gasket between the Bendix fuel system and the engine pad for it, 2) how do you
set up and adjust the RSA 5AD1fuel metering system 3) the example drawings in
the book don't exaxtly match the engine so is there a more specific on on the
web somewhere?
The manual I have doesn't even have one picture of this engine!
I could go on but if somone could tell me where I could learn more specific
info on installing this specific engine that would be welcomed.
thanks,
Lucky
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: IO-360-A1B6D |
--> RV-List message posted by: "R.A.S" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
Hi,
does this engine actually fit in the mount or did you order a special mount
from Van's?
Marcel
Message 3
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| Subject: | For Sale RV-6 Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: gerald conrad <gwcgwc@videotron.ca>
RV-6 Kit For Sale. Empennage 5% done, Wings 20%, Fuselage & Finishing 0%. Slow
build. My wife wants it out of the garage. $12,000. or $15,600 Canadian. Reply
off line.
Gerry Conrad
RV-6A ...50 hrs
RV-6 kit
Montreal, Canada
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh@argo.net.au>
----- Original Message -----
From: Shirley Harding
Subject: alternators
Hi all -- any photos or advice on an alternator set-up for an RV6. I've got the
Vans brackets and a Bosch alternator but it seems to hit the lower cowl.
Cheers
Shirley
RV6
Message 5
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| Subject: | tail wheel spring wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
I have one from left my RV4 when I went to the full swivel tail wheel assy.
Pat Long
PGLong@aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Message 6
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| Subject: | FAILED MAIN LANDING GEAR RV-8 |
0.20 FROM_HAS_ULINE_NUMS From: contains an underline and numbers/letters
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Tom -
Glad no airframe damage occurred.
Someone else build your -8? Van sent out a letter and test kit to builders
in order to check for this condition. Mine's s/n 313 and I was notified
sometime in 1999 as I recall. Checked out fine.
Glad no a/c damage occurred. On the bright side, maybe you now have an
opportunity for some nice Grove Al landing gear?!?!
Bryan
Houston
-8
>We just removed two bent landing gears from my recently completed RV-8. No,
>it was not a hard landing. It was because I was sent a pair of unhardened
>gear
>legs as part of my original kit. I don't know how many others are out there
>like this, but this is one of the earlier kits, serial #80013. The
>C-hardness
>test on the bent gear was 11. It was supposed to be C-42 to 44. If it
>doesn't
>look right on your airplane, it probably isn't. The good part is we caught
>it
>before we had any damage. The bad part is it could have wiped out the whole
>airplane. New gears have been installed and it is ready to go again.
>Performance
>is unbelievable. Regards, Tom.
>
>Tom Whelan
>Whelan Farms Airport
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: IO-360-A1B6D |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
I almost bought a used one of these from a Cessna Cardinal with three blade CS
prop IIRC. You might find documentation in that direction...Hope this helps...
I was looking for the three blade capability afforded by the counterweights - I
eventually had Aerosport Power build my engine as I encountered the same documentation
(lack of) issues that you are experiencing.
-----Original Message-----
From: RV8ter@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: IO-360-A1B6D
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
Where's online info on how to maintain and service the dual mag pack unique
to this model?
I searched the lycoming web site over the weekend but didn't find what I was
looking for.
Now that my engine is mounted, I see the ops manual that came with it is
really lacking the details I need.
Where can I find detailed info on this model such as 1) should there be a
gasket between the Bendix fuel system and the engine pad for it, 2) how do you
set up and adjust the RSA 5AD1fuel metering system 3) the example drawings in
the book don't exaxtly match the engine so is there a more specific on on the
web somewhere?
The manual I have doesn't even have one picture of this engine!
I could go on but if somone could tell me where I could learn more specific
info on installing this specific engine that would be welcomed.
thanks,
Lucky
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: IO-360-A1B6D |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
it fit van's.
Message 9
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| Subject: | PAINTING THE GAS TANK |
1.96 FROM_NO_LOWER From address has no lower-case characters
--> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
I am getting ready to paint and wondering what the consensus is on how to
paint the wing and gas tank.
1. Separately and use stainless screws
2. Paint together screws included
3. Fill screws and paint together
4. Or what
If you paint it together removing it because of some future problem seems
like it would be a pain.
Thanks,
Rich Crosley
RV-8 N948RC
Palmdale, CA
Message 10
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| Subject: | 3/32 blind rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: russ@wernerworld.com
Anyone know where to get 3/32 flush pop rivets that are a bit longer than the ones
Vans sells? Please email me direct at russ@wernerworld.com
Russ Werner
HRII
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Another RV finally in the air. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Imfairings@aol.com
Way to go Charlie...I can see that RV grin clear over here in AZ...Fly
safe...enjoy.
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc
www.fairings-etc.com
bob@fairings-etc.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
Rich,
It's really six of one and half dozen of the other. The big thing is
what do YOU want to do?
As a painter, I've done it both ways with success. No matter what way
you go, if you have to remove the tank at a later date you will
undoubtedly mar the paint in some way... Guaranteed!
If your using a two-stage system, then I tend to lean more to the
separate component approach. At least for the primary color. Then put
it all together and lay-out and shoot your stripes or secondary
color(s). Any fairings or access panels should only be installed
temporarily to lay out for color breaks. Then removed and shot
separately no matter what way you choose. Nothing bothers me more than
to see overspray around a fairing, or little or no paint coverage on a
panel joggle.
Using a B/C system you can easily repair any defects in the basecoat
before you clear. I would suggest that you not make your color breaks
on or real close to any attachment lines (rivets and screws) so if you
do mar the paint, you only have one color to deal with.
Just remember the time you spend planning and prepping you paint job
will be in direct proportion to how well the job comes out. If you've
never painted before you might want to go to your local wrecking yard
and buy a couple of junk hoods and practice on them before tackling your
bird...Just my 2 Cents.
Jim Duckett RV708JD
Do Not Archive
Crosley, Rich wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
>
> I am getting ready to paint and wondering what the consensus is on how to
>paint the wing and gas tank.
>
>1. Separately and use stainless screws
>2. Paint together screws included
>3. Fill screws and paint together
>4. Or what
>
>If you paint it together removing it because of some future problem seems
>like it would be a pain.
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Rich Crosley
>RV-8 N948RC
>Palmdale, CA
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | gear leg fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Dear All,
I am fitting updated single piece gear leg fairings to my RV-4. I've got
them set to use hose clamps to secure the upper end. My questions are:
How did you secure the lower end of the fairing to the gear leg, or did you
let it float? (or just let the wheel pant intersection fairing locate it?
Was anything needed as a chaffe guard between the gear leg and the fairing.
Thanks,
Don Mei
"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi Jim,
What is a "B/C system"?
Thanks,
/\/elson
On Mon, 20 Sep 2004, Jim Duckett wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
>
> Rich,
> It's really six of one and half dozen of the other. The big thing is
> what do YOU want to do?
> As a painter, I've done it both ways with success. No matter what way
> you go, if you have to remove the tank at a later date you will
> undoubtedly mar the paint in some way... Guaranteed!
> If your using a two-stage system, then I tend to lean more to the
> separate component approach. At least for the primary color. Then put
> it all together and lay-out and shoot your stripes or secondary
> color(s). Any fairings or access panels should only be installed
> temporarily to lay out for color breaks. Then removed and shot
> separately no matter what way you choose. Nothing bothers me more than
> to see overspray around a fairing, or little or no paint coverage on a
> panel joggle.
> Using a B/C system you can easily repair any defects in the basecoat
> before you clear. I would suggest that you not make your color breaks
> on or real close to any attachment lines (rivets and screws) so if you
> do mar the paint, you only have one color to deal with.
> Just remember the time you spend planning and prepping you paint job
> will be in direct proportion to how well the job comes out. If you've
> never painted before you might want to go to your local wrecking yard
> and buy a couple of junk hoods and practice on them before tackling your
> bird...Just my 2 Cents.
>
> Jim Duckett RV708JD
Message 15
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| Subject: | PAINTING THE GAS TANK |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
I'd just add one thing here. If this is your first paint project, the
Base/Clear might not be the best choice....yes you can fix problems before
you clear coat it, but for ease of use, you can't beat the single stage
system. Acrylic Urethane like PPG Concept or DuPont Chroma One are
wonderful. Look beautiful upon finish, and if you do find some problems,
you can still wet sand and buff it out to a high gloss.
I like Jims advice on fairings, etc.. I have one plane that has quite a
problematic scheme on it, and had to install and remove things a lot of
times to layout stripes, etc...
Cheers,
stein bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Duckett
Subject: Re: RV-List: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
Rich,
It's really six of one and half dozen of the other. The big thing is
what do YOU want to do?
As a painter, I've done it both ways with success. No matter what way
you go, if you have to remove the tank at a later date you will
undoubtedly mar the paint in some way... Guaranteed!
If your using a two-stage system, then I tend to lean more to the
separate component approach. At least for the primary color. Then put
it all together and lay-out and shoot your stripes or secondary
color(s). Any fairings or access panels should only be installed
temporarily to lay out for color breaks. Then removed and shot
separately no matter what way you choose. Nothing bothers me more than
to see overspray around a fairing, or little or no paint coverage on a
panel joggle.
Using a B/C system you can easily repair any defects in the basecoat
before you clear. I would suggest that you not make your color breaks
on or real close to any attachment lines (rivets and screws) so if you
do mar the paint, you only have one color to deal with.
Just remember the time you spend planning and prepping you paint job
will be in direct proportion to how well the job comes out. If you've
never painted before you might want to go to your local wrecking yard
and buy a couple of junk hoods and practice on them before tackling your
bird...Just my 2 Cents.
Jim Duckett RV708JD
Do Not Archive
Crosley, Rich wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich"
<RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
>
> I am getting ready to paint and wondering what the consensus is on how to
>paint the wing and gas tank.
>
>1. Separately and use stainless screws
>2. Paint together screws included
>3. Fill screws and paint together
>4. Or what
>
>If you paint it together removing it because of some future problem seems
>like it would be a pain.
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Rich Crosley
>RV-8 N948RC
>Palmdale, CA
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: 3/32 blind rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
I got mine at Aircraft Supply on Parwelk in Dallas...2146373598...don't know what
their mail-order process is...I just drive over......
-----Original Message-----
From: russ@wernerworld.com
Subject: RV-List: 3/32 blind rivets
--> RV-List message posted by: russ@wernerworld.com
Anyone know where to get 3/32 flush pop rivets that are a bit longer than the ones
Vans sells? Please email me direct at russ@wernerworld.com
Russ Werner
HRII
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
I'm on the fence on this one myself, but leaning towards painting it as one
unit. I think visible screws on tips and fairings look fine, but they seem
kind of wrong on the wing. I figure if there's a problem in the future that
requires removal, I'll carefully remove them and repalce with stainless at
that time. I seem to remember seeing a tool once for making a little round
"incision" in paint around the perimeter of the screw's head -- looked like
a little bitty hole saw.
Steve Zicree
RV4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Subject: RV-List: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich"
<RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
>
> I am getting ready to paint and wondering what the consensus is on how to
> paint the wing and gas tank.
>
> 1. Separately and use stainless screws
> 2. Paint together screws included
> 3. Fill screws and paint together
> 4. Or what
>
> If you paint it together removing it because of some future problem seems
> like it would be a pain.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich Crosley
> RV-8 N948RC
> Palmdale, CA
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | PAINTING THE GAS TANK |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
The inside diameter of a -6 aluminum tube fits the OD of a -8 screwhead
perfectly. I took a piece of tube to the bench sander and ground a very
sharp edge so the tube could be placed over a screw head, turned to cut
the paint and the painted screw could then be removed leaving the paint
behind on the skin. Worked great on every screw head I did.
Course I did not figure this trick out till I broke some paint off
removing the first few screws and called a professional painter buddy
who hooked me up with this trick.
On my S8 tanks, I have sacrificial screws which are slightly loose,
enough so that paint cant get underneath the head when sprayed, but
loose enough that paint wont stick to the head and skin when removed.
This way I can paint a good set of screws and put them in at the end,
and when I tighten em, they wont chip the paint under the screw cause
there is no paint under the screw cause the sacrificial screws were
covering the holes. Neat huh? Not my idea. This was completely stolen
from my painter
w/o the sacrificial screws, then you toy with chipping paint either
putting the screws in, or taking them out, regardless of when tool to
make to cut the paint around the screws.
Mike Stewart
Learned my lesson on this.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve zicree
Subject: Re: RV-List: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
I'm on the fence on this one myself, but leaning towards painting it as
one
unit. I think visible screws on tips and fairings look fine, but they
seem
kind of wrong on the wing. I figure if there's a problem in the future
that
requires removal, I'll carefully remove them and repalce with stainless
at
that time. I seem to remember seeing a tool once for making a little
round
"incision" in paint around the perimeter of the screw's head -- looked
like
a little bitty hole saw.
Steve Zicree
RV4
----- Original Message -----
From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Subject: RV-List: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich"
<RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
>
> I am getting ready to paint and wondering what the consensus is on
how to
> paint the wing and gas tank.
>
> 1. Separately and use stainless screws
> 2. Paint together screws included
> 3. Fill screws and paint together
> 4. Or what
>
> If you paint it together removing it because of some future problem
seems
> like it would be a pain.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich Crosley
> RV-8 N948RC
> Palmdale, CA
>
>
==
==
==
==
Message 19
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| Subject: | PAINTING THE GAS TANK |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Mike: why would the sacrificial screws need to be replaced with new ones? Sounds
like they emerge from the process already painted but not stuck down - ideal.
-Bill B
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
steve zicree wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
>
>I'm on the fence on this one myself, but leaning towards painting it as one
>unit.
>
If you back the screws out before you shoot the paint or paint the screw
heads separately you shouldn't have any problems. the problem with
shooting the screw heads separately is that they may not be an exact
match with the skin when you're done. Don't ask me why, 'cuz I don't know..
Linn
do not archive
> I think visible screws on tips and fairings look fine, but they seem
>kind of wrong on the wing. I figure if there's a problem in the future that
>requires removal, I'll carefully remove them and repalce with stainless at
>that time. I seem to remember seeing a tool once for making a little round
>"incision" in paint around the perimeter of the screw's head -- looked like
>a little bitty hole saw.
>
>Steve Zicree
>RV4
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich"
>>
>>
><RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
>
>
>> I am getting ready to paint and wondering what the consensus is on how to
>>paint the wing and gas tank.
>>
>>1. Separately and use stainless screws
>>2. Paint together screws included
>>3. Fill screws and paint together
>>4. Or what
>>
>>If you paint it together removing it because of some future problem seems
>>like it would be a pain.
>>
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Rich Crosley
>>RV-8 N948RC
>>Palmdale, CA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
That's true Stein for a single color but, we like the two-stage because
we seem to have deeper colors and far better hold out with a two-stage
system. Plus it's a lot easier and tremendously faster to lay out
multiple colors and patterns than a single stage. Not to mention that
you won't have any break edges once the clear goes on. As opposed to
using single stage for multiple colors.
As far as buffing goes... same, same to us. We always do at least final
buff and polish on all our jobs. Too many years of building Hot Rods
and Show Cars I guess.
For those folks that are really interested in an inexpensive single
stage urethane system, PPG's Commercial Coating Line recently introduced
close to 900 colors in their CCU product. Looks way better than an
acrylic enamel, cures faster than a standard single stage urethane, and
costs under $200. per gallon to shoot. We've only shot some electrical
boxes and transformers for contractors so far but, after 6 months or so
in the weather, they still look as good as when they left the shop.
Freightliner Trucks (who has a very high paint quality standard) plans
on converting to CCU this year. So that should say something about the
product.
Bottom line, there's as many opinions on what product to use to paint
your plane as there are colors to choose from. IMHO use the best
product line that will give you your expected results. Remember, in
refinishing products as with most everything you plan to put in or on
your ship, you generally get what you pay for. Just understand the
system, it's application, and it's limitations first. That way you
won't end up discovering the many different ways to apply stripper.
Jim Duckett
Stein Bruch wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
>I'd just add one thing here. If this is your first paint project, the
>Base/Clear might not be the best choice....yes you can fix problems before
>you clear coat it, but for ease of use, you can't beat the single stage
>system. Acrylic Urethane like PPG Concept or DuPont Chroma One are
>wonderful. Look beautiful upon finish, and if you do find some problems,
>you can still wet sand and buff it out to a high gloss.
>
>I like Jims advice on fairings, etc.. I have one plane that has quite a
>problematic scheme on it, and had to install and remove things a lot of
>times to layout stripes, etc...
>
>Cheers,
>stein bruch
>RV6's, Minneapolis
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Duckett
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
>
>Rich,
>It's really six of one and half dozen of the other. The big thing is
>what do YOU want to do?
>As a painter, I've done it both ways with success. No matter what way
>you go, if you have to remove the tank at a later date you will
>undoubtedly mar the paint in some way... Guaranteed!
>If your using a two-stage system, then I tend to lean more to the
>separate component approach. At least for the primary color. Then put
>it all together and lay-out and shoot your stripes or secondary
>color(s). Any fairings or access panels should only be installed
>temporarily to lay out for color breaks. Then removed and shot
>separately no matter what way you choose. Nothing bothers me more than
>to see overspray around a fairing, or little or no paint coverage on a
>panel joggle.
>Using a B/C system you can easily repair any defects in the basecoat
>before you clear. I would suggest that you not make your color breaks
>on or real close to any attachment lines (rivets and screws) so if you
>do mar the paint, you only have one color to deal with.
>Just remember the time you spend planning and prepping you paint job
>will be in direct proportion to how well the job comes out. If you've
>never painted before you might want to go to your local wrecking yard
>and buy a couple of junk hoods and practice on them before tackling your
>bird...Just my 2 Cents.
>
>Jim Duckett RV708JD
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>Crosley, Rich wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich"
>>
><RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
>
>>I am getting ready to paint and wondering what the consensus is on how to
>>paint the wing and gas tank.
>>
>>1. Separately and use stainless screws
>>2. Paint together screws included
>>3. Fill screws and paint together
>>4. Or what
>>
>>If you paint it together removing it because of some future problem seems
>>like it would be a pain.
>>
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Rich Crosley
>>RV-8 N948RC
>>Palmdale, CA
>>
>>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | PAINTING THE GAS TANK |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
QWhoLCBnb29kID8gTGlubi4NCkJlY2F1c2Ugd2hlbiB5b3UgYXJlIHNhbmRpbmcgYmV0d2VlbiBj
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Z2V0IGEgZ29vZCB3ZXQgc2FuZC4gV2l0aCB0aGUgc2NyZXdzIHNsaWdodGx5IHJhaXNlZCwgaXQg
dGVhcnMgdXAgdGhlIHNhbmRwYXBlciBvbiB0aGUgREEgb3IgdGhlIGhhbmQgc2FuZGluZy4NClNv
IHRoZXkgZ2V0IGJ1Z2dlcmVkIHVwIHJ1bm5pbmcgZW0gaW4gYW5kIG91dC4NCiANCg0KCS0tLS0t
T3JpZ2luYWwgTWVzc2FnZS0tLS0tIA0KCUZyb206IG93bmVyLXJ2LWxpc3Qtc2VydmVyQG1hdHJv
bmljcy5jb20gb24gYmVoYWxmIG9mIFNwb3J0QVY4UkBhb2wuY29tIA0KCVNlbnQ6IE1vbiA5LzIw
LzIwMDQgNDoxNyBQTSANCglUbzogcnYtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tIA0KCUNjOiANCglTdWJq
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IEZBUTogICAgICAgaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL0ZBUS9SVi1MaXN0Lmh0bQ0KCV8t
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IDctRGF5IEJyb3dzZTogICBodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vYnJvd3NlL3J2LWxpc3QN
CglfLT0gIEJyb3dzZSBEaWdlc3RzOiBodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vZGlnZXN0L3J2
LWxpc3QNCglfLT0gIExpdmUgTGlzdCBDaGF0OiBodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vY2hh
dA0KCV8tPSAgQXJjaGl2ZXM6ICAgICAgIGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9hcmNoaXZl
cw0KCV8tPSAgUGhvdG8gU2hhcmU6ICAgIGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9waG90b3No
YXJlDQoJXy09ICBMaXN0IFNwZWNpZmljOiAgaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL3J2LWxp
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bS9jb250cmlidXRpb24NCglfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQ0KCQ0KCQ0KCQ0KCQ0KCQ0KDQo
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: 3/32 blind rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: plaurence@the-beach.net
Russ,
Try http://www.aerotech.aero/ccr_specs.htm
Peter Laurence
On 20 Sep 2004 at 10:34, russ@wernerworld.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: russ@wernerworld.com
>
> Anyone know where to get 3/32 flush pop rivets that are a bit longer
> than the ones Vans sells? Please email me direct at
> russ@wernerworld.com
>
> Russ Werner
> HRII
>
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Tuft Testing the RV wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
This has probably been done by many before me but the following link shows
pics of some of the www.landshorter.com vortext generators along with a
bunch of pics and movies of the left wing tuft testing that I did this
weekend.
http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/tufttests/
resplice as needed.
So far I'm not convinced that VGs will do much for the RVs, but I still have
several things to try.
I'm guessing though that the issue will be not that they don't work, but
more if you already have an awesome airplane, and you increase the
awesomeness by 5% then you will have a 1.05 awesome airplane.
On the upside the whole project got me reading all the info on the
www.cafefoundation.org about exhausts, ignition and airflow. Seems like the
thrust of their work is about lean running the engine above 10K altitude,
and if you aren't doing this then there isn't a high degree of benefit from
all the fancy engine mods. (I know, its not fair to reduce 57 pages of data
and analysis into one sentence)
W
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Craig Warner" <cwarner@twcny.rr.com>
Pait the wing with the tank in place but the screw heads sticking up. When
the paint dries switch the screws to stainless.
Craig warner- 3 RVs painted
Finally building my own.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Subject: RV-List: PAINTING THE GAS TANK
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich"
> <RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
>
> I am getting ready to paint and wondering what the consensus is on how to
> paint the wing and gas tank.
>
> 1. Separately and use stainless screws
> 2. Paint together screws included
> 3. Fill screws and paint together
> 4. Or what
>
> If you paint it together removing it because of some future problem seems
> like it would be a pain.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich Crosley
> RV-8 N948RC
> Palmdale, CA
>
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Gear Leg Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabriel A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
I've had a continuous problem with my leg fairings.
They are attached by a single clamp at the top.
The leg fairings come loose about every 15 flight hours.
Anybody with some good ideas?
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 135 hours
South Florida
Survived Hurricane Frances. Hurricane Eye went right over hangar. No plane damage.
Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net
Cell: 561 758 8894
Fax: 561 833 3138
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 9/20/2004 4:35:19 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
ferrergm@bellsouth.net writes:
I've had a continuous problem with my leg fairings.
They are attached by a single clamp at the top.
The leg fairings come loose about every 15 flight hours.
==============================
Gage-
Is the material yielding or is the screw backing off? There are better
clamps available if the material is yielding (bending or deflecting) and you
should safety wire them if the screw is backing off. Mine are installed the same
way and have not moved in almost 720 hrs.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs)
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: PAINTING THE GAS TANK |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 9/20/2004 8:33:30 AM Pacific Daylight Time, RCR
OSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM writes:
I am getting ready to paint and wondering what the consensus is on how to
paint the wing and gas tank.
1. Separately and use stainless screws
2. Paint together screws included
3. Fill screws and paint together
4. Or what
======================================
My choice is or what. Use only 8-32 socket head cap screws in just a few
locations to hold the tanks in place on the wing and they will allow paint to
penetrate down into the dimples. Back them out slightly after paint has set
and then remove completely and install CRES screws when paint is dry.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs)
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Tuft Testing the RV wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert.v@sbcglobal.net>
Hey wheeler
I think you have typos in yer page....
<img border="0" src="../tufttests/RV6_stalls_001.jpg" width="623"
height="466">
../tuftstests/ has one too many s's in the line ;-)
all links for the pic's come up broken but if I splice
RV6_stalls_001.jpg' behind the page url it will work.
Gert
Wheeler North wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> This has probably been done by many before me but the following link shows
> pics of some of the www.landshorter.com vortext generators along with a
> bunch of pics and movies of the left wing tuft testing that I did this
> weekend.
>
>
> http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/tufttests/
>
> resplice as needed.
>
> So far I'm not convinced that VGs will do much for the RVs, but I still have
> several things to try.
>
> I'm guessing though that the issue will be not that they don't work, but
> more if you already have an awesome airplane, and you increase the
> awesomeness by 5% then you will have a 1.05 awesome airplane.
>
> On the upside the whole project got me reading all the info on the
> www.cafefoundation.org about exhausts, ignition and airflow. Seems like the
> thrust of their work is about lean running the engine above 10K altitude,
> and if you aren't doing this then there isn't a high degree of benefit from
> all the fancy engine mods. (I know, its not fair to reduce 57 pages of data
> and analysis into one sentence)
>
> W
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 sliding canopy weather seal |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 9/19/2004 6:16:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
What is EPDM?
====================================
Punch it into your favorite search engine and find out all you want to know
and more..
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs)
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Tuft Testing the RV wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
Well, this would all be very interesting, but the pictures and movies do
not show up on the web pages - just the text. The images are blank and
if you try to look at just the image, it shows 404 missing link.
Really would like to look at your testing results!
Dick Tasker
Wheeler North wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>This has probably been done by many before me but the following link shows
>pics of some of the www.landshorter.com vortext generators along with a
>bunch of pics and movies of the left wing tuft testing that I did this
>weekend.
>
>
>http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/tufttests/
>
>resplice as needed.
>
>So far I'm not convinced that VGs will do much for the RVs, but I still have
>several things to try.
>
>I'm guessing though that the issue will be not that they don't work, but
>more if you already have an awesome airplane, and you increase the
>awesomeness by 5% then you will have a 1.05 awesome airplane.
>
>On the upside the whole project got me reading all the info on the
>www.cafefoundation.org about exhausts, ignition and airflow. Seems like the
>thrust of their work is about lean running the engine above 10K altitude,
>and if you aren't doing this then there isn't a high degree of benefit from
>all the fancy engine mods. (I know, its not fair to reduce 57 pages of data
>and analysis into one sentence)
>
>W
>
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 sliding canopy weather seal |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
EPDM: Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer from Google!
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 sliding canopy weather seal
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 9/19/2004 6:16:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
>
> What is EPDM?
>
>
> ====================================
>
> Punch it into your favorite search engine and find out all you want to
know
> and more..
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs)
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Tuft Testing the RV wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
By following Gert's tip, was able to view each of the .jpg photos (rt click
each to pop up menu & click "Properties" to get details that give the number
to change in the jpg name of each photo - not all in squence so have to look
at each one). The 3 movie links, after deleting the extra s that is between
tuft & test (should be tufttest, not tuftstest), downloaded OK but I only
got audio, no video. Probably some problem with my Windows Media player -
have used it to view video clips before but it's not giving video on these
files. Is the .mov extension what it is looking for to see it as a video
file instead of an audio file?
About the tufts - I'm almost amazed at how the tufts behind the fuel tank
(and the line just outboard of tank) show totally separated airflow all the
way to the front, while the others are straight all the way aft.
- I wonder if there is something tripping the airflow abnormally in the
inboard half of the wing? Wouldn't think it was prop-wash or landing gear
down below.
- Anyone have any archived photos of other aircraft for comparison?
Think CAFE tufted and took pics?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Tuft Testing the RV wing
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> This has probably been done by many before me but the following link shows
> pics of some of the www.landshorter.com vortext generators along with a
> bunch of pics and movies of the left wing tuft testing that I did this
> weekend.
>
>
> http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/tufttests/
>
> resplice as needed.
>
> So far I'm not convinced that VGs will do much for the RVs, but I still
have
> several things to try.
>
> I'm guessing though that the issue will be not that they don't work, but
> more if you already have an awesome airplane, and you increase the
> awesomeness by 5% then you will have a 1.05 awesome airplane.
>
> On the upside the whole project got me reading all the info on the
> www.cafefoundation.org about exhausts, ignition and airflow. Seems like
the
> thrust of their work is about lean running the engine above 10K altitude,
> and if you aren't doing this then there isn't a high degree of benefit
from
> all the fancy engine mods. (I know, its not fair to reduce 57 pages of
data
> and analysis into one sentence)
>
> W
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Tuft Testing the RV wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I had to download Quick Time (free). Worked fine then - saw all 3 video
clips.
do not archive
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tuft Testing the RV wing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> By following Gert's tip, was able to view each of the .jpg photos (rt
click
> each to pop up menu & click "Properties" to get details that give the
number
> to change in the jpg name of each photo - not all in squence so have to
look
> at each one). The 3 movie links, after deleting the extra s that is
between
> tuft & test (should be tufttest, not tuftstest), downloaded OK but I only
> got audio, no video. Probably some problem with my Windows Media player -
> have used it to view video clips before but it's not giving video on these
> files. Is the .mov extension what it is looking for to see it as a video
> file instead of an audio file?
>
> About the tufts - I'm almost amazed at how the tufts behind the fuel tank
> (and the line just outboard of tank) show totally separated airflow all
the
> way to the front, while the others are straight all the way aft.
> - I wonder if there is something tripping the airflow abnormally in
the
> inboard half of the wing? Wouldn't think it was prop-wash or landing gear
> down below.
> - Anyone have any archived photos of other aircraft for comparison?
> Think CAFE tufted and took pics?
>
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Tuft Testing the RV wing
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> >
> > This has probably been done by many before me but the following link
shows
> > pics of some of the www.landshorter.com vortext generators along with a
> > bunch of pics and movies of the left wing tuft testing that I did this
> > weekend.
> >
> >
> > http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/tufttests/
> >
> > resplice as needed.
> >
> > So far I'm not convinced that VGs will do much for the RVs, but I still
> have
> > several things to try.
> >
> > I'm guessing though that the issue will be not that they don't work, but
> > more if you already have an awesome airplane, and you increase the
> > awesomeness by 5% then you will have a 1.05 awesome airplane.
> >
> > On the upside the whole project got me reading all the info on the
> > www.cafefoundation.org about exhausts, ignition and airflow. Seems like
> the
> > thrust of their work is about lean running the engine above 10K
altitude,
> > and if you aren't doing this then there isn't a high degree of benefit
> from
> > all the fancy engine mods. (I know, its not fair to reduce 57 pages of
> data
> > and analysis into one sentence)
> >
> > W
> >
> >
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6 sliding canopy weather seal |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 sliding canopy weather seal
RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
EPDM: Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer
Yea, but does she have a good looking sister ?
Do Not Archive
Sorry list police, it's just who I am.. KABONG
HRII N561FS, flying but working on strobes.
Message 36
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"Rocket List" <rocket-list@matronics.com>,
"SoCal RV List" <socal-rvlist@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Pt. Mugu Air Show After Action Report |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Do not archive.
Long Delete now if not interested.
Not building related.
Pt. Mugu (NTD) Air Show After Action Report
After several months of planning and coordinating, several members of the SoCal
RVators were able to fly their planes to a military base, NTD, and be part of
the Air Show during the weekend of September 18 and 19.
For Saturday, three planes signed up: Mike Duggan, Chris Kleen, and Tom Gummo.
However, the weather was not kind. They wanted us there no later than 7:30 AM
as they open the gates around 8:00 AM. The weather had been bad for a couple
of days so Chris flew to CMA and stayed the night. He was able to fly under
the 2000 foot overcast and had no problem landing at NTD. Mike was trapped by
the weather in the basin and was unable to takeoff until 10:15 AM. He was turned
away as the Air Show had already started. I had the normal high desert
weather of clear and million at Apple Valley but as I crossed the mountain, there
below me was a complete "under-cast." As I talked to Pt. Mugu approach,
several planes reported holes in the overcast near Santa Paula so I turned to
that direction. However, those holes had MOUNTAINS sticking up through them.
As a turned south, I found a hole where I could CLEARLY see the ground. After
a careful look at the map, I decided it would be safe to drop down through this
sucker hole. As I turned toward NTD, approach said, "You are in CMA airspace."
I was just glad that I could see the ground and was under the clouds.
While the visibility was marginal, I was able to land with no other problems.
After I landed and taxied to my parking place by Chris, who was already there,
they closed fence. While Chris and I were parked together, they parked us about
thirty feet apart. So we pushed the planes closer together. Shortly there
after, Dave Richardson showed up (he drove) with the posters. THEY WERE A BIG
HIT. Due to a mix up, Rick Gould didn't show up with a table or any tail feathers
(We need to work on the ground crew, if we ever do this again). Chris
and I had a great time. As the day when on, the weather got better. The weather
cleared enough for the Golden Knights to do their high show. Mark Swaney,
a F-1 builder and a Captain in the Navy, showed up and said hello. BTW, he
worked behind the scenes to help with some of the problems, which cropped up.
He also coordinated several issues while we were there. As the show ended, several
guys showed up and opened a hole in the fence and help push us beyond the
fence. We were able to crank up and depart VFR. We didn't have to wait until
5:30 as stated.
Sunday started with clear weather so no dropping through holes in the clouds.
As I had to stop for fuel, I was the last to land again. This time three RVs
were waiting for the Rocket. Paul Rosales, Bill Marvel, and Em Richard beat me
in. Dwayne Cowles was a no show but he did tell me that he had other plans,
which he was working to change (guess he was unable). Bill also flew to CMA
the afternoon before, as he was beating the no departures early in the morning
at his home drome. This time, I had a passenger - Jack or as you know him -
KABONG. However, by the time the air show was to start, the winds had picked
up. In fact, they cancelled the Golden Knights parachute jumps because of the
high winds. All day the winds never abated. It was between 20 to 30 knots all
day. Once again, we had a great day with fellow RVators, got to watch a good
air show, and showed hundreds it not thousands of people our planes. Rick
showed up and gave a tour of the P-3 aircraft to those who wanted it. Once the
air show ended, a fuel truck showed up and we were topped off for free. I was
told to not ask for fuel as we would have a better chance of being allowed
to come but they had plenty to give away (I could have saved about 60 dollars
had I known). We were told the wind would die down in an hour or so but it was
not to be. After a reasonable time, the nose wheel guys decided that they
could handle the 28 gust to 35 knot crosswind and departed safely. Em and I asked
to be allowed to use the crosswind runway but they had parked planes on it
and only 500 feet remained before the cable across the runway. Again, Mark
helped a lot. It took a while but they finally said that we could use it. Em
lead us to the takeoff point. We had to taxi forward some more to make them
happy but we got clearance to takeoff. As she applied power, the tail came up.
After about 100 to 150 feet, she was airborne. As I applied power, my tail
came up - even with Jack in the back, within seconds the plane started those
little hops when it is ready to fly so I added a little more back pressure and
we also were airborne well before the cable. Wish there was someway to measure
it but it was clearly my shortest takeoff roll ever. I now have proof that
an RV can takeoff from a carrier deck. The wind would be about the same as the
carrier sailing forward into minimum wind. Em and I then split up and flew
home. For Jack and I, the tailwind helped us see over 215 knots ground speed
(Normal cruise is about 170 to 175 knots, no wind). The landing at APV was not
my best but then again I had a 15 gust to 22 knot wind to play with.
Those of us who came had a great time and would like to do it again. Em had a
good idea that we should make a video (CD-ROM or DVD) of the different things
we can offer an air show: formation demonstrations, static displays of not only
experimental aircraft but the people who have built them, that we can park several
aircraft much closer together (much less ramp space that they think) and
that we can push our aircraft in and out of the crowd safely (therefore, there
is no requirement for us to bring our planes in the day before the show starts
and leave them there all weekend long. Note: at one point they wanted us
to fly in Thursday and stay until Sunday after the show.) Then, sending this
DVD to different military bases, Edwards AFB, March AFB, Miramar NAS, Pt. Mugu
NAS - to name a few, to see if we can be part of their air shows.
I am sure I left out some important details so the rest of you feel free to change
or add to this report.
I LOVE JET NOISE - AFTERBURNER, EVEN BETTER.
Tom "GummiBear" Gummo
Wild Weasel #1753
Major, USAF Retired, F-4G Instructor Pilot
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II, N561FS, 220 hours
do not archive
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