Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:08 AM - Re: Boelube, How to use? (Steve Waltner)
2. 05:20 AM - Re: KLX-135A (Sims, Doug)
3. 06:14 AM - Re: [RV-8] First Flight (Charles Rowbotham)
4. 07:04 AM - Re: Boelube, How to use? (DWENSING@aol.com)
5. 07:10 AM - Re: KLX-135A (Jerry Hansen)
6. 07:21 AM - Re: EAA Chapter 898 FLY IN Sat Oct 2,2004 @ MJX (Five0Gulf@aol.com)
7. 07:21 AM - Re: EAA Chapter 898 FLY IN Sat Oct 2,2004 @ MJX (Five0Gulf@aol.com)
8. 07:22 AM - Re: EAA Chapter 898 FLY IN Sat Oct 2,2004 @ MJX (Five0Gulf@aol.com)
9. 07:49 AM - Re: Alternator cooling duct (DWENSING@aol.com)
10. 08:30 AM - Re: Alternator cooling duct (Dan Checkoway)
11. 08:31 AM - Re: Alternator cooling duct (Gary Zilik)
12. 08:37 AM - Re: Alternator cooling duct (Bill VonDane)
13. 09:05 AM - Re: Alternator cooling duct (DWENSING@aol.com)
14. 09:31 AM - Re: Alternator cooling duct (Scott Bilinski)
15. 09:45 AM - Re: Alternator cooling duct (Bill VonDane)
16. 11:18 AM - Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) (John)
17. 11:27 AM - Re: Re: Elevator balancing/counter weights (Mike Robertson)
18. 11:32 AM - Re: Elevator balancing/counterweights (Mike Robertson)
19. 11:32 AM - Re: Alternator cooling duct (Rick Galati)
20. 12:32 PM - Re: Elevator balancing/counterweights (Mickey Coggins)
21. 03:33 PM - Re: Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) (Doug Rozendaal)
22. 05:39 PM - Catto props...3 vs 2 blade (Jeff Orear)
23. 06:39 PM - Re: Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) (John Ammeter)
24. 06:39 PM - Prop noise (Doug Cook)
25. 07:37 PM - CHT's at altitude (Jason Sneed)
26. 08:04 PM - Re: Catto props...3 vs 2 blade (Jim Oke)
27. 08:09 PM - Re: CHT's at altitude (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
28. 08:21 PM - new address (Avheath@aol.com)
29. 08:31 PM - Re: engine oil leak (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
30. 08:53 PM - Nose Wheel Fork Bolt Holes (Bobby Hester)
31. 08:59 PM - Off list for awhile (HCRV6@aol.com)
32. 09:22 PM - Re: Alternator cooling duct (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Boelube, How to use? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Steve Waltner <swaltner@mac.com>
>> How does one use Boelube? I have a little stick of the stuff and it
>> seems hard and crumbly, somewhat like a cross between wax and soap. I
>> rubbed a drill on it and it seemed like nothing happened. I then
>> switched to cutting oil. Cutting oil is visible on the tool or bit,
>> makes me think it is working. How do you know if the Boelube is
>> working?
>
> Most people simply "drill" their drill bit into the BoeLube which puts
> a thin
> coating on their drill. It is not necessary to put globs of the stuff
> on your
> drill bit, a small coating works fine. BoeLube is awesome stuff and
> is used
> in every single aircraft factory I have ever visited.
>
> If you are not comfortable using the paste version, BoeLube also makes
> a
> liquid version which comes in a 4oz bottle. (Shameless Plug: you can
> find it on
> our website at - www.browntool.com ).
I was shown to get the drill bit hot by drilling into a 2x4 at the very
beginning of the work session. You then simply touch the bit to the
BoeLube, which melts a little bit of it onto the bit. Cutting into .032
sheetmetal (especially with pre-punched holes doesn't keep the bit hot
enough to melt the BoeLube for the next application, so you will need
to redo the 2x4 drilling every time. If you're drilling new holes in
sheetmetal or drilling into aluminum angle, it will likely keep enough
heat for re-application. When doing it like this, you can see a liquid
get sucked up onto the bit from the BoeLube tube. Waiting a few seconds
and it will harden back into a waxy film on the tip of the bit.
Steve
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Sims, Doug" <Doug.Sims@danahermotion.com>
I bought the Garmin 300XL for $2100 at Sun N Fun last year from Pacific
Coast. It's more functionality than I need right now and doesn't give me the
display like my 196 but panel space is at a premium. I can always add a
second radio later on. Good value for the money!
-----Original Message-----
From: Denis Walsh [mailto:denis.walsh@comcast.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: KLX-135A
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
Ditto from me on my 2c worth. I paid 2600 nine years ago. It is a
fine unit and I like it, but the moving map is far inferior to my
Garmin Pilot III! The combo listed by Stein is what I would do today,
for the same budget.
Denis
On Sep 26, 2004, at 8:11 PM, Stein Bruch wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> What to say.......
>
> Quick search of all the major avionics houses shows the going rate for
> a
> KLX-135A GPS/COMM is between $2150.00 - $2595.00. If you ordered it,
> cancel
> it and but one from somewhere else.
>
> FYI....ACS is usually higher than everyone else (even Van's) on things
> like
> that....
> Quick Look:
>
> Pacific/Gulf Coast:$2595
> Chief: $2475
> Great Lakes: $2195
>
> Also, here's my opinion (It's worth what you paid for it).
> The best thing you can do with that money, is buy a good little com
> radio
> (ICOM, KING, etc..) and buy one of the slick handhelds (Garmin
> 295/296/196,
> Skyforce, etc..). The KLX's GPS is WAYYYYYY outdated compared to even
> the
> new handhelds. The new garmins blow them away in functionality,
> display,
> etc...
>
> I've flown behind the KLX's, and I'm not saying they are bad units,
> just
> outdated. The coupling between the COM/GPS on that unit doesn't
> justify the
> $$'s when you can seprately buy loads of more functionality for less
> $$'s.
>
> Just my 2 cents!
>
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
>
> http://www.steinair.com
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> mimartin@sweetwaterhsa.com
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: KLX-135A
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "mimartin@sweetwaterhsa.com"
> <mimartin@sweetwater.com>
>
> I'm wondering how much others have paid for the KLX-135A GPS COM. I
> ordered
> from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty and was shocked at the price
> $3048.00. Is
> this now the price others are paying? Mickey Martin RV6
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: [RV-8] First Flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Joel,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joel Harding
> To: RV-8@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2004 11:20 PM
> Subject: [RV-8] First Flight
>
>
> On Saturday afternoon at five o clock the parts box was empty, the
> inspection was complete, and there were no reasons left not to fly, so
> I did. After eight years of building, kit number 80004 finally became
> airborne, and what a treat it was.
> Joel Harding (ex builder)
>
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Boelube, How to use? |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 9/27/04 1:48:45 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
BrownTool@aol.com writes:
> Most people simply "drill" their drill bit into the BoeLube which puts a
> thin
> coating on their drill. It is not necessary to put globs of the stuff on
> your
> drill bit, a small coating works fine. BoeLube is awesome stuff and is used
>
> in every single aircraft factory I have ever visited.
>
> If you are not comfortable using the paste version, BoeLube also makes a
> liquid version which comes in a 4oz bottle.
OR.....stop by your neighborhood bearing supply house and pick up an aerosol
can of Molykote 557 which works equaly well and much easier to apply. A little
spray on the tool whenever you need it. Also, works great on micro
countersink cutters and saw blades.
Dale Ensing
RV6A inspection soon
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen@cox.net>
If you will later wish to hook your GPS/Com to a digital autopilot, be aware
that the KLX135A is one of the few systems that DOESN'T provide a full,
compatible data stream to the autopilot.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sims, Doug
Subject: RE: RV-List: KLX-135A
--> RV-List message posted by: "Sims, Doug" <Doug.Sims@danahermotion.com>
I bought the Garmin 300XL for $2100 at Sun N Fun last year from Pacific
Coast. It's more functionality than I need right now and doesn't give me the
display like my 196 but panel space is at a premium. I can always add a
second radio later on. Good value for the money!
-----Original Message-----
From: Denis Walsh [mailto:denis.walsh@comcast.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: KLX-135A
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
Ditto from me on my 2c worth. I paid 2600 nine years ago. It is a
fine unit and I like it, but the moving map is far inferior to my
Garmin Pilot III! The combo listed by Stein is what I would do today,
for the same budget.
Denis
On Sep 26, 2004, at 8:11 PM, Stein Bruch wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> What to say.......
>
> Quick search of all the major avionics houses shows the going rate for
> a
> KLX-135A GPS/COMM is between $2150.00 - $2595.00. If you ordered it,
> cancel
> it and but one from somewhere else.
>
> FYI....ACS is usually higher than everyone else (even Van's) on things
> like
> that....
> Quick Look:
>
> Pacific/Gulf Coast:$2595
> Chief: $2475
> Great Lakes: $2195
>
> Also, here's my opinion (It's worth what you paid for it).
> The best thing you can do with that money, is buy a good little com
> radio
> (ICOM, KING, etc..) and buy one of the slick handhelds (Garmin
> 295/296/196,
> Skyforce, etc..). The KLX's GPS is WAYYYYYY outdated compared to even
> the
> new handhelds. The new garmins blow them away in functionality,
> display,
> etc...
>
> I've flown behind the KLX's, and I'm not saying they are bad units,
> just
> outdated. The coupling between the COM/GPS on that unit doesn't
> justify the
> $$'s when you can seprately buy loads of more functionality for less
> $$'s.
>
> Just my 2 cents!
>
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
>
> http://www.steinair.com
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> mimartin@sweetwaterhsa.com
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: KLX-135A
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "mimartin@sweetwaterhsa.com"
> <mimartin@sweetwater.com>
>
> I'm wondering how much others have paid for the KLX-135A GPS COM. I
> ordered
> from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty and was shocked at the price
> $3048.00. Is
> this now the price others are paying? Mickey Martin RV6
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: EAA Chapter 898 FLY IN Sat Oct 2,2004 @ MJX |
--> RV-List message posted by: Five0Gulf@aol.com
Toms River New Jersey
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: EAA Chapter 898 FLY IN Sat Oct 2,2004 @ MJX |
--> RV-List message posted by: Five0Gulf@aol.com
Toms River ,NJ
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: EAA Chapter 898 FLY IN Sat Oct 2,2004 @ MJX |
--> RV-List message posted by: Five0Gulf@aol.com
Toms River, New Jersey
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
Does anybody sell a small flange that can be flush mounted to the front
baffle floor and connected to the black nylon flex tubing for cooling the
alternator?
Or, any suggestions on how to make one?
Dale Ensing
RV6A
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ductflanges.php
Not exactly what you asked for, since they only sell 1" and larger, but you
can use 1" SCAT or whatever. Or just make your own flange out of aluminum.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct
> --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>
>
> Does anybody sell a small flange that can be flush mounted to the front
> baffle floor and connected to the black nylon flex tubing for cooling the
> alternator?
> Or, any suggestions on how to make one?
> Dale Ensing
> RV6A
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
They sell 5/8" scat tubing but I have never found 5/8" flanges. I turned
one myself on my lathe. I have seen some installations where the flex
tubing is just screwed into the hole. Does not look good (IMHO) but
seems to work.
Gary
DWENSING@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>
>
>Does anybody sell a small flange that can be flush mounted to the front
>baffle floor and connected to the black nylon flex tubing for cooling the
>alternator?
>Or, any suggestions on how to make one?
>Dale Ensing
>RV6A
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Dale...
Just rill a hole big enough to take and hole a piece of the black corrugated
wire loom stuff, just like you would for your mag blast tubes... Then use a
small clamp on the alternator bracket to direct and hold the tube...
http://www.rv8a.com/engine/finish116.jpg
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado Springs
EAA Tech Counselor
www.vondane.com
www.rv8a.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
Does anybody sell a small flange that can be flush mounted to the front
baffle floor and connected to the black nylon flex tubing for cooling the
alternator?
Or, any suggestions on how to make one?
Dale Ensing
RV6A
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 9/27/04 11:38:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bill@vondane.com writes:
> Just rill a hole big enough to take and hole a piece of the black
> corrugated
> wire loom stuff, just like you would for your mag blast tubes...
Hi Bill,
Thanks. Was trying to avoid the air flow disturbance of the plastic loom
sticking up thru the floor of the baffle. Guess I can start out with that and
continue looking for a neat aluminum flange to add later.
Dale
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Aircraft Spruce sells the flanges. The down side is they are for 1.0 OD
tubing minimum. 5~6 bucks if I remember correctly.
At 12:04 PM 9/27/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 9/27/04 11:38:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>bill@vondane.com writes:
>
>
> > Just rill a hole big enough to take and hole a piece of the black
> > corrugated
> > wire loom stuff, just like you would for your mag blast tubes...
>
>Hi Bill,
>Thanks. Was trying to avoid the air flow disturbance of the plastic loom
>sticking up thru the floor of the baffle. Guess I can start out with that and
>continue looking for a neat aluminum flange to add later.
>Dale
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I'm not sure you would get any determinable air flow disturbance... The air
is pressurized in there anyway...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 9/27/04 11:38:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bill@vondane.com writes:
> Just rill a hole big enough to take and hole a piece of the black
> corrugated
> wire loom stuff, just like you would for your mag blast tubes...
Hi Bill,
Thanks. Was trying to avoid the air flow disturbance of the plastic loom
sticking up thru the floor of the baffle. Guess I can start out with that
and
continue looking for a neat aluminum flange to add later.
Dale
Message 16
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| Subject: | Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) |
0.00 FROM_HAS_MIXED_NUMS From: contains numbers mixed in with letters
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
I flew over the mountains to Grand Junction, CO, (GJT) this morning for a
bi-annual transponder check. That went well.
Upon take off to return I rotated by reference to my LRI (my usual practice)
and then cross checked against my air speed indicator. Guess what? No air
speed indication, no VSI, no altimeter either.
Obviously something was left unconnected at the radio shop. I had to quickly
decide if I wanted to land without those instruments at GJT or continue over
the mountains via Monarch Pass, around 11,00 or so.
I decided to use my AnywhereMap's indication of GPS altitude and ground
speed and the LRI for stall safety margin and completed the hour-long
flight.
Entry into the pattern went well, lots of visual clues. On long final I sort
of wished the update rate on GPS altitude was a bit faster, but the LRI kept
me well above stall speed. Landing went very normal.
Moral of the story? I don't know for certain, except it was damm nice to
have the AnywhereMap GPS and the LRI as backup. (Trouble turned out to be a
picnched hose...everything WAS connected.)
FWIW
John at Salida, CO
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator balancing/counter weights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
You know I hate getting older and having too much information in the aging
brain. I went to my notes over the weekend and reviewed them.. I have found
that I balanced the elevators a little NOISE heavy, not tail heavy. Sorry
to one and all for my mis-information. Send your flames
Mike Robertson
>From: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Elevator balancing/counter weights
>Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 21:45:47 EDT
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>
>I had read that a positive balance(slightly nose heavy) was preferable on
>elevators. You must also allow for (guestimate if unpainted) the
>difference
>after painting. I had my RV-4 counterweights nose down by 3" or so before
>painting and they were about 1" down after paint. Testing to 235 MPH has
>been done
>with do vibration or flutter.
>
>Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
>A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
>Charleston,Arkansas
>Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
>
>
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
Message 18
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| Subject: | Elevator balancing/counterweights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Like I said on an earlier post, I got my brain working as* backwards. I
reviewed my notes and found that it is supposed to be slighlty nose heavy,
not trailing edge heavy.
Sorry,
Mike
>From: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Elevator balancing/counterweights
>Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 22:35:53 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> >
> >Michey,
> >
> >There used to be an AC with all kinds of generic information but that one
>is
> >long gone. Now almost all info is fond in manufacturer's maintenance
>manuls
> >(IE, Cessna, Piper). What you need to do is to suspend the control
>surface
> >from the hinges, then either add or remove weight from the counterweight
> >until the trailing edge and counterweights are on the same horizontal
>plane.
> > More specifically for the RV's I have found that if the trailing edge
>is
> >slightly heavy the controls seem to respond better and there is less
>chance
> >of control flutter at high speeds. By being slightly heavy I mean the
> >trailing edge 1-2 inches below the horizontal plane of the center of the
> >counter weight leading edge.
> >
>
>Just understand that Van's flutter analysis and flight testing is
>only valid if the elevators are balanced the way he says. Making the
>trailing edge heavier will increase the stick force per g, and reduce
>the tendency for a pilot induced oscillation. But it will increase
>the likelihood of aeroelastic flutter.
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
>
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Dale,
Just did this job a few days ago. I used a 10350-4 ALUM FLANGE 1" bought from Spruce
to which I mated a short length of 1" sceet with a 032-9 Oetiker clamp.
Rick Galati RV-6A N307R "finishing"
Does anybody sell a small flange that can be flush mounted to the front
baffle floor and connected to the black nylon flex tubing for cooling the
alternator?
Or, any suggestions on how to make one?
Dale Ensing
RV6A
Message 20
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| Subject: | Elevator balancing/counterweights |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Thanks, all, for the comments and suggestions. In addition
to your advice, I had a chat with Ken at Van's and he said
that if you just put on the weights as shipped, it won't
make much difference one way or the other. He said the
aircraft is not very sensitive to elevator balance. I'm
building an 8, so I'm not sure if his comment is only
valid for the 8, or for all their models.
My elevators are currently slightly nose heavy, and I
suspect that will balance out a bit once they get painted.
I already have the electric trim installed.
Thanks again,
Mickey
>Like I said on an earlier post, I got my brain working as* backwards. I
>reviewed my notes and found that it is supposed to be slighlty nose heavy,
>not trailing edge heavy.
>
>
>> ....
>>
>>Just understand that Van's flutter analysis and flight testing is
>>only valid if the elevators are balanced the way he says. Making the
>>trailing edge heavier will increase the stick force per g, and reduce
>>the tendency for a pilot induced oscillation. But it will increase
>>the likelihood of aeroelastic flutter.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
All,
This is not directed at you John, obviously you had no problems, but this is
a common problem among the pilots I see giving BFRs. Pilots get real jumped
up when I cover the airspeed indicator. Loss of airspeed should not be a
big deal!
The LRI is a great tool and I have nothing against lots of back ups, (You
should see my panel, lotsa backups) However, in day VMC conditions, anyone
who has any concerns whatsoever about safely flying their airplane without
an airspeed indicator doesn't need a back up, they need some practice.
Cover it up and go practice! With an instructor of a safety pilot if need
be, but go practice!!!
IFR or at night is a little more interesting, I lost the pitot heat while
IMC in a C210 once and lost airspeed, needless to say there was ice on the
wings too. When it came time to shoot the ILS, I took my handheld GPS out of
batterysaver mode (they update about 3 times more often) and I told my pax
to read the GPS ground speed every few seconds. There was nothing to it,
but an LRI would have been a nice addition that day. Even with out the GPS,
it would have been manageable, but I would have been smokin' down the
approach you can bet!
On BFRs I cover the ASI and most decent pilots are within 5 mph of normal
speeds once they quit freaking out.
The purpose of training is to provide a conditioned response to a set of
circumstances with a positive outcome. This provides certainty of a
positive outcome and that is really important, because once you lose
certainty in a successful outcome, the outcome becomes certain and that is
certainly not good!
FWIW, This theory applies to business, and marriage as well as aviation.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Snip
>
> Entry into the pattern went well, lots of visual clues. On long final I
sort
> of wished the update rate on GPS altitude was a bit faster, but the LRI
kept
> me well above stall speed. Landing went very normal.
>
> Moral of the story? I don't know for certain, except it was damm nice to
> have the AnywhereMap GPS and the LRI as backup. (Trouble turned out to be
a
> picnched hose...everything WAS connected.)
>
> FWIW
>
> John at Salida, CO
Message 22
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| Subject: | Catto props...3 vs 2 blade |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
List:
I am about to make a decision on a prop for my 150 hp -6A. I have read all I could
in the archives regarding the use of a 3 blade Catto prop, and I also talked
with as many RV pilots that I could who were using this prop while at OSH
this past summer.
I have not seen or heard any bad comments on the prop, and I am wondering if all
who are using it still would recommend it.
Also, what are the advantages/disadvantages of using a 3 blade vs a two blade?
Is the 3 blade that much smoother and quieter than a 2 blade?
I am not looking for maximum speed or climb in my prop. I am a flat-lander (Wisconsin)
and am just looking for a good all-around prop. Smooth and quiet are
up there on the list for me.
Sure would like to hear from those in the know.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
About to close up the top forward skin
Peshtigo, WI
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter <jammeter@comcast.net>
I'd like to add to this thread. I built and flew an RV-6
with the 150 hp engine. If anyone was to ask me what my
speed on final was I'd have to admit I don't know... I flew
the airplane "by the seat of the pants". You can tell when
you're in the groove for a good landing by the feel of the
stick and the responsiveness of the airplane.
do not archive
John Ammeter
On Mon, 27 Sep 2004 17:32:27 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
>All,
>
>This is not directed at you John, obviously you had no problems, but this is
>a common problem among the pilots I see giving BFRs. Pilots get real jumped
>up when I cover the airspeed indicator. Loss of airspeed should not be a
>big deal!
>
>The LRI is a great tool and I have nothing against lots of back ups, (You
>should see my panel, lotsa backups) However, in day VMC conditions, anyone
>who has any concerns whatsoever about safely flying their airplane without
>an airspeed indicator doesn't need a back up, they need some practice.
>Cover it up and go practice! With an instructor of a safety pilot if need
>be, but go practice!!!
>
>IFR or at night is a little more interesting, I lost the pitot heat while
>IMC in a C210 once and lost airspeed, needless to say there was ice on the
>wings too. When it came time to shoot the ILS, I took my handheld GPS out of
>batterysaver mode (they update about 3 times more often) and I told my pax
>to read the GPS ground speed every few seconds. There was nothing to it,
>but an LRI would have been a nice addition that day. Even with out the GPS,
>it would have been manageable, but I would have been smokin' down the
>approach you can bet!
>
>On BFRs I cover the ASI and most decent pilots are within 5 mph of normal
>speeds once they quit freaking out.
>
>The purpose of training is to provide a conditioned response to a set of
>circumstances with a positive outcome. This provides certainty of a
>positive outcome and that is really important, because once you lose
>certainty in a successful outcome, the outcome becomes certain and that is
>certainly not good!
>
>FWIW, This theory applies to business, and marriage as well as aviation.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Cook" <Dugcook@cox.net>
With all the messages on props, I just read an interesting article from the Calif.
Pilots Assoc. newsletter relating to prop noise.
It states that as prop tip speeds approaches transonic range (625mph (736mph mach
1)) the noise level takes a tremendous jump.
For our 72" props this equates to 2900rpm for the onset of transonic prop speeds.
So I think any RV prop is going to be relatively quiet. For comparison, my
Cessna has a prop speed of 610mph at 2500rpm cruise, where an RV would have
a prop speed of 535mph at that rpm.
Doug (RV-7a in progress)
Message 25
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| Subject: | CHT's at altitude |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
I have an RV-6 0-360 (9:1 pistons) with the airflow performance FI
system. I have one mag and the bottom plugs are running on a Jeff Rose
electronic ignition. I normally cruise in the 4,500-6,500 foot range.
During the summer months when the OAT is in the 75-85 degree range my
CHT's run about 390-410 at cruise at peak EGT. 60 degrees rich of peak
I may see a 10 degree CHT drop. Lean of peak operation gets CHT's down
to 370-385. I think these numbers are pretty normal.
My question is, when I try to cruise at 9,500 or above my CHT's are 450
at peak and 430 at 60 degrees rich. Lean of peak operation still has
CHT's over 400. My theory is that since the air is thinner at 9,500 and
above it has less cooling effect. I would think the decrease in OAT
would make up for the thinner air but it does not. I would really like
to take advantage of better tailwinds at altitude plus I have an O2
system I have never used.
I recently spent a bunch of money fixing a warped exhaust valve, and
everything I have read says the best way to not have valve problems is
to keep CHT's low.
Engine has 900 hours since new and 375 since a top overhaul. Baffles
have been replaced, I opened the bottom of the cowl some and I feel
like the cowl is sealed very well. I have also inspected my cooling
fins, they appear fine with no flashing. Oil temps run 180 in cruise.
Any input on this issue would be great.
Jason Sneed
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Catto props...3 vs 2 blade |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Jeff;
I have a 150 hp RV-6A and use the Sensenich 70CM prop sold through Van's
(the max 2600 rpm one). I do not have a lot of other RV-6 experience to
compare it to but am pleased with the noise, vibration and general
smoothness level - IOW, I consider them at the low end of other light
aircraft I have flown/flown in. I do run a (wood) Pacesetter 200 on my RV-3
and it is a lot rougher.
Apart from the 2 vs 3 blade issue, I feel the mass and stiffness of the prop
are what makes for a lot smoother operation. Performance is good too, BTW.
I am quite satisfied with my 0-320, Sensenich fixed pitch set-up.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Wpg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Catto props...3 vs 2 blade
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>
> List:
>
> I am about to make a decision on a prop for my 150 hp -6A. I have read
> all I could in the archives regarding the use of a 3 blade Catto prop, and
> I also talked with as many RV pilots that I could who were using this prop
> while at OSH this past summer.
>
> I have not seen or heard any bad comments on the prop, and I am wondering
> if all who are using it still would recommend it.
>
> Also, what are the advantages/disadvantages of using a 3 blade vs a two
> blade? Is the 3 blade that much smoother and quieter than a 2 blade?
>
> I am not looking for maximum speed or climb in my prop. I am a
> flat-lander (Wisconsin) and am just looking for a good all-around prop.
> Smooth and quiet are up there on the list for me.
>
> Sure would like to hear from those in the know.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P (reserved)
> About to close up the top forward skin
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: CHT's at altitude |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Jason,
While the temps are (barely) within what Lycoming allows, I think they are
about 50 degrees higher than mine are. I have an IO-360-C1E6 with -A!A sump.
This is an angle valve head so it may not be an apples and apples comparison.
My suggestion would be to retard the timing to 25 degrees to see if the
advanced timing of the electronic ignition is raising the CHTs. This doesn't make
perfect sense to me, but something is making your CHTs higher than normal.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying -- 55 hours since July 7, 2004)
In a message dated 9/27/04 9:38:27 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
n242ds@cox.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
> I have an RV-6 0-360 (9:1 pistons) with the airflow performance FI
> system. I have one mag and the bottom plugs are running on a Jeff Rose
> electronic ignition. I normally cruise in the 4,500-6,500 foot range.
> During the summer months when the OAT is in the 75-85 degree range my
> CHT's run about 390-410 at cruise at peak EGT. 60 degrees rich of peak
> I may see a 10 degree CHT drop. Lean of peak operation gets CHT's down
> to 370-385. I think these numbers are pretty normal.
>
> My question is, when I try to cruise at 9,500 or above my CHT's are 450
> at peak and 430 at 60 degrees rich. Lean of peak operation still has
> CHT's over 400. My theory is that since the air is thinner at 9,500 and
> above it has less cooling effect. I would think the decrease in OAT
> would make up for the thinner air but it does not. I would really like
> to take advantage of better tailwinds at altitude plus I have an O2
> system I have never used.
>
> I recently spent a bunch of money fixing a warped exhaust valve, and
> everything I have read says the best way to not have valve problems is
> to keep CHT's low.
>
> Engine has 900 hours since new and 375 since a top overhaul. Baffles
> have been replaced, I opened the bottom of the cowl some and I feel
> like the cowl is sealed very well. I have also inspected my cooling
> fins, they appear fine with no flashing. Oil temps run 180 in cruise.
> Any input on this issue would be great.
>
>
> Jason Sneed
>
>
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: Avheath@aol.com
Please change my address to avheath@sbcglobal.net
Please let me know that you received this note.
Bob
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: engine oil leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 9/21/04 7:53:31 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
Rquinn1@aol.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rquinn1@aol.com
>
> Andy, We also had an oil leak that, even with the help of the experts, we
> could not locate. Then one of the best A&Ps came over and looked and said
> that
> I should cut my oil vent hose on such an angle that would give the case a
> slight vacuum. I did and the leak was cured.
> Rollie &Rod
> RV6A with about 86 hours (and a clean cowl)
>
Along these lines -- when the rings seat (if the engine is new or freshly
overhauled) the blowby will lessen, which will lower the crankcase pressure, and
the leak may cure itself.
I have one of these kind of leaks too. It seems to come from the left front
of the engine in the area of the prop governor. There is a lot of stuff in
the way which keeps me from seeing that area of the case. Anyway, I still
intend to take Stein's excellent advice to try to find it, but it doesn't seem
to
be as bad as it was early on.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying -- 55 hours since 7/7/04)
Message 30
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| Subject: | Nose Wheel Fork Bolt Holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
I just assembled my nose wheel, no problems. I slid the wheel with the
big spacers into the nose fork and slid the bolt in with the wheel
centered, one side aligned with the bolt hole the hole on the other side
is at least a half hole off. If I try to force the bolt in the wheel
cocks to one side and the spacers are not flat on each side on the fork,
they are cocked also. Is this normal and I need to do something to make
it work. It appears to me that the holes are not aligned properly and
the part needs to be replaced.
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 31
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| Subject: | Off list for awhile |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Just in case someone tries to reach me I will be off the list until October
11.
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final details
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Alternator cooling duct |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 9/27/2004 8:31:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
zilik@direcpc.com writes:
They sell 5/8" scat tubing but I have never found 5/8" flanges. I turned
one myself on my lathe.
====================================
Aha! A market looking for a product. Who will be the new entrepreneur that
picks up this baton and runs with it?
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs)
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