Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:17 AM - prop bolt torque (james frierson)
2. 06:56 AM - Re: CHT's at altitude (Scott Bilinski)
3. 07:23 AM - Re: prop bolt torque (DonEavesRV6)
4. 07:25 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Fork Bolt Holes (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
5. 07:25 AM - Rudder - RV6 & Original RV7 Compatability (DonEavesRV6)
6. 07:33 AM - oil leak discovered (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
7. 08:35 AM - Re: CHT's at altitude (Bob J)
8. 09:02 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Fork Bolt Holes (Bobby Hester)
9. 11:31 AM - reply to various stuff (Wheeler North)
10. 12:50 PM - Re: Flap useage for short field takeoff (Donald Mei)
11. 01:06 PM - Re: Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) (Donald Mei)
12. 01:10 PM - >Re: oil leak discovered (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
13. 01:14 PM - >Re: prop bolt torque (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
14. 03:58 PM - Re: >Re: oil leak discovered (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
15. 04:31 PM - Re: >Re: oil leak discovered (Denis Walsh)
16. 05:14 PM - Re: Catto props...3 vs 2 blade (Mark/Micki Phillips)
17. 06:20 PM - Re: reply to various stuff (Kevin Horton)
18. 06:26 PM - Windshield Frame (Douglas A. Fischer)
19. 09:48 PM - Re: prop bolt torque (H.Ivan Haecker)
20. 11:07 PM - RV Jacks at Harbor Freight (Rich Crosley)
21. 11:19 PM - Test (Ted Lumpkin)
Message 1
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| Subject: | prop bolt torque |
--> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
I have a wooden prop and was checking the torque. I set my torque wrench to
the desired setting of 25 ft lb and check the bolts. They all were =>25 ft
lbs as none of them moved when checked. My question is do you back off the
bolts and then retorque or is the method I used sufficient?
Scott Frierson
N162RV
RV6A Flying 26hrs
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: CHT's at altitude |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I have the same set up as you do and usually run 360 CHT at those altitudes
mentioned. Where are your temp probes in the head or under the spark plugs.
Its also a good idea to stay away from peak EGT over about 60% power. I am
at peak EGT for only 5~10 seconds not long enough for the heads to get as
warm as you mentioned. What power settings are you running at? Have you
backed the timing off 5 degrees due to the higher compression? Timing makes
a big difference on CHTS.
As far as cooling goes at altitude yes you have less air, but you are also
going faster because there is less resistance which should make up for less
air. Coming back from the Reno air races I went up to 15.5 to use a tail
wind and the head temps were about 360F at 55% power and 50 degrees LOP.
At 09:36 PM 9/27/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
>I have an RV-6 0-360 (9:1 pistons) with the airflow performance FI
>system. I have one mag and the bottom plugs are running on a Jeff Rose
>electronic ignition. I normally cruise in the 4,500-6,500 foot range.
>During the summer months when the OAT is in the 75-85 degree range my
>CHT's run about 390-410 at cruise at peak EGT. 60 degrees rich of peak
>I may see a 10 degree CHT drop. Lean of peak operation gets CHT's down
>to 370-385. I think these numbers are pretty normal.
>
>My question is, when I try to cruise at 9,500 or above my CHT's are 450
>at peak and 430 at 60 degrees rich. Lean of peak operation still has
>CHT's over 400. My theory is that since the air is thinner at 9,500 and
>above it has less cooling effect. I would think the decrease in OAT
>would make up for the thinner air but it does not. I would really like
>to take advantage of better tailwinds at altitude plus I have an O2
>system I have never used.
>
>I recently spent a bunch of money fixing a warped exhaust valve, and
>everything I have read says the best way to not have valve problems is
>to keep CHT's low.
>
>Engine has 900 hours since new and 375 since a top overhaul. Baffles
>have been replaced, I opened the bottom of the cowl some and I feel
>like the cowl is sealed very well. I have also inspected my cooling
>fins, they appear fine with no flashing. Oil temps run 180 in cruise.
>Any input on this issue would be great.
>
>
>Jason Sneed
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: prop bolt torque |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DonEavesRV6" <DonEavesRV6@midsouth.rr.com>
Scott:
If you trust your torque wrench is calibrated correctly - "all were =>25 ft
"
Back each off each bolt - retorqueing to proper torque - in an alternating
pattern - until you have checked 2 times - until all are @ 25 ft lbs.
Remember wood props require retorqueing after your 1 operation and at
increasing intervals of operation until you notice little or no loosing -
Then you will still need to check @ least every condition inspection.
Some experienced wood prop operators may give you a better condition check
time frame that works for them -
Don Eaves
RV6 Flying 235+
----- Original Message -----
From: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: prop bolt torque
> --> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
>
> I have a wooden prop and was checking the torque. I set my torque wrench
> to
> the desired setting of 25 ft lb and check the bolts. They all were =>25 ft
> lbs as none of them moved when checked. My question is do you back off the
> bolts and then retorque or is the method I used sufficient?
>
> Scott Frierson
> N162RV
> RV6A Flying 26hrs
>
> On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
> get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Fork Bolt Holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 9/27/04 10:54:46 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
bhester@hopkinsville.net writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
> I just assembled my nose wheel, no problems. I slid the wheel with the
> big spacers into the nose fork and slid the bolt in with the wheel
> centered, one side aligned with the bolt hole the hole on the other side
> is at least a half hole off. If I try to force the bolt in the wheel
> cocks to one side and the spacers are not flat on each side on the fork,
> they are cocked also. Is this normal and I need to do something to make
> it work. It appears to me that the holes are not aligned properly and
> the part needs to be replaced.
>
> --
> Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
> RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
>
>
This one should go back to Vans. Mine fit very well.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying since 7/7/04 -- 55 hours now)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Rudder - RV6 & Original RV7 Compatability |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DonEavesRV6" <DonEavesRV6@midsouth.rr.com>
1st let me thank all who have offered the Original Rudder off there RV7 - Or may
want to -
It is not compatible with the RV6 -
From a call to Vans and Van's Service Bulletin 02-6-1:
The original RV7 rudder will not work on a RV6 without changing to the RV7 Vertical
stabilizer - Both are larger than the 6 -
The current RV7 Rudder is a RV9 Rudder with the RV7 Sttabilizer
Good news I can still get the parts I need to build a new RV6 rudder if I cannot
find one out there on the list -
Thanks
Don Eaves
RV6 Flying 235+ Hours
Message 6
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| Subject: | oil leak discovered |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
I have discovered the source of most of my oil leaks. It was a 5 minute fix
that will now be a routine part of my annual.
My crankcase breather port ties into a flexible hose which then clamps onto
a 10" stainless tube which is welded directly into the left side exhaust
pipe. This setup injects blowby into the hot exhaust causing most of it to
burn or atomize and much less of it to coat the belly of my clean airplane.
What has happened over the years is that sludge has built up and solidified
at the juncture of the breather tube and exhaust causing a blockage, thus
pressurizing the case, and pushing oil out of almost every possible seam.
Opening up the blockage immediately cured about 3/4 of the leaks. Replacing
the quick drain O-rings and retorquing the valve covers got rid of much of
the rest.
So much for fretting cases and $10,000 overhauls. ; )
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: engine oil leak
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 9/21/04 7:53:31 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> Rquinn1@aol.com writes:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Rquinn1@aol.com
> >
> > Andy, We also had an oil leak that, even with the help of the experts,
we
> > could not locate. Then one of the best A&Ps came over and looked and
said
> > that
> > I should cut my oil vent hose on such an angle that would give the case
a
> > slight vacuum. I did and the leak was cured.
> > Rollie &Rod
> > RV6A with about 86 hours (and a clean cowl)
> >
>
> Along these lines -- when the rings seat (if the engine is new or freshly
> overhauled) the blowby will lessen, which will lower the crankcase
pressure, and
> the leak may cure itself.
>
> I have one of these kind of leaks too. It seems to come from the left
front
> of the engine in the area of the prop governor. There is a lot of stuff
in
> the way which keeps me from seeing that area of the case. Anyway, I still
> intend to take Stein's excellent advice to try to find it, but it doesn't
seem to
> be as bad as it was early on.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
> N766DH (Flying -- 55 hours since 7/7/04)
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: CHT's at altitude |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
Jason, that is way too hot. I advise that you get a digital voltmeter
and connect it to the advance output on the ignition, then go fly with
it to see how many degrees of advance there is at altitude. IIRC
10mV/degree advance. So .01V would be 1 degree advance, .25V would be
25 degrees advance, etc. It could be the MAP sensor is faulty and
your timing is advancing too far BTDC with altitude. That could
easily cause high temperatures.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 qb under const.
> >My question is, when I try to cruise at 9,500 or above my CHT's are 450
> >at peak and 430 at 60 degrees rich. Lean of peak operation still has
> >CHT's over 400. My theory is that since the air is thinner at 9,500 and
> >above it has less cooling effect. I would think the decrease in OAT
> >would make up for the thinner air but it does not. I would really like
> >to take advantage of better tailwinds at altitude plus I have an O2
> >system I have never used.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Fork Bolt Holes |
CLR 1.1.4322)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Thanks for the reply, after reading it, I called Vans and they said that does happen
sometimes. I have to send it back with a note that the holes are misalined
and they'll send me a new one.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
> To: bhester@hopkinsville.net
> Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2004 09:41 (CDT)
> Subject: RV-List: Nose Wheel Fork Bolt Holes
>
>
>
> Hi Bobby- I met you at the Lebanon fly-in. I'd sure take this up with Vans,
> particularly if the bottom of the two side plates are parallel- either the
> holes are mis-drilled, the side plates are not welded in the correct postion
> or
> the thing somehow got bent! Mine was perfectly straight.
>
> Mark Phillips, Columbia TN, -6A N51PW
>
>
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite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Message 9
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| Subject: | reply to various stuff |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Use the black wire conduit hose, pop through a tight hole, then take a hot
iron and flatten the part sticking up into a flange. Practice this before
attempting on your baffle.
Lost ASI. One good reason for manual pitch trim is the marks I have on the
trim cable control shaft. I can set this to a specific spot and the plane
will fly within one or two knots of a known airspeed for any given mark.
This operates independantly of all other systems, and in fact I can do it by
feel with my eyes closed. To become confident in this one must really go out
and practice flying slow speed with trim only, using throttle only for
vertical speed management, and keeping your hand off the stick except for
turbulence corrections.
RE high CHTs, suggest testing temps on one mag to establish one mag
baseline, then set mag to 20-23Deg BTDC and test again on the one mag, then,
if temps are lower, turn on the other system and see if temps climb. This
will verify that timing is the cause (or at least a solution), based upon
your engine's/airframe's capacity to cool.
If this proves true I believe you can back the suggested timing values for
the Rose system back a few degrees just like you would a mag and it won't
know the difference. Also, expect EGTs to climb slightly, and I would be
suprised if you are able to tell the difference in max power output.
W
Message 10
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| Subject: | re: Flap useage for short field takeoff |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Frank,
The reason it isn't mentioned much is because even with poor technique, an
RV like yours can get off the ground in less than 700 ft easily.
I am not an exceptional pilot, but I am proficient. I fly my RV on final at
70 mph. I think thats pretty good. But it still takes me much farther to
land than to take off.
1/2 fuel, alone, with 1/2 flaps, I am off in a shade over 300 ft.
My plane has a climb prop, that helps, but even still you will have a lot
more margin on takeoff than on landing.
as an aside, I flew into a 1600 ft grass strip (wheel pants removed) this
weekend. It was a total non-event.
Don Mei
RV-4
O-320
Message 11
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| Subject: | re: Lift Reserve Indicator (LRI) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
John,
It is good to hear that everything worked out, but let me play devil's
advocate. I'd suggest that you should aim for a level of proficiency where
NONE of those items are necessary for a safe comfortable flying experience.
(in good VFR conditions).
Every few months or so, I will practice flying with no ASI, VSI, Altimeter.
I practice stalls before attempting to refresh my memory as to the pitch
attitude, wind noise, etc.
In the end its always a non event. Our gadgets and toys are nice and can
contribute greatly to safety, but they are not a substitute for proficiency
in pure seat of the pants flying.
Again, this is not a criticism in any way. You had those other tools at
your disposal, so you used them. It just reminded me that we should stay
current, and proficient using even fewer tools than you had at your
disposal.
Don Mei
p.s. If it hasn't already been said already, don't use the GPS Groundspeed
indicator in the pattern. If there is any wind, it can get you in trouble.
You're better off going by sound and pitch.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: >Re: oil leak discovered |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
My crankcase vent line goes to about 1/8" from the exhaust pipe and points at
the pipe. This burns the oil spray without the welded-in tube ( and NO plug
in the tube )
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: >Re: prop bolt torque |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I found that it takes about 5 ft/lbs to turn my 7/16" bolts in the prop hub
(bolts not into the flange). I then add this 5 ft/lbs to the 25 and torque to
30.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: >Re: oil leak discovered |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Yeah, but I've got afterburners ;-)
Andy
>
> My crankcase vent line goes to about 1/8" from the exhaust pipe and points
at
> the pipe. This burns the oil spray without the welded-in tube ( and NO
plug
> in the tube )
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: >Re: oil leak discovered |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
I would recommend a whistle hole in your vent line, regardless of type
of termination. This gives you insurance against blockage, and will
also tell you end is blocked, by slobbering for you.
Denis
On Sep 28, 2004, at 2:10 PM, Oldsfolks@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>
> My crankcase vent line goes to about 1/8" from the exhaust pipe and
> points at
> the pipe. This burns the oil spray without the welded-in tube ( and
> NO plug
> in the tube )
>
>
> Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> Charleston,Arkansas
> Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Catto props...3 vs 2 blade |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
Jeff, Have you received any comments about the cato props? Im almost to the
stage I need to order the prop.A friend of mine has one but hasnt installed
it. Sure is pretty thou.
Mark Phillips
Williamsville,ILlinois
RV-6 Finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Catto props...3 vs 2 blade
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>
> List:
>
> I am about to make a decision on a prop for my 150 hp -6A. I have read
> all I could in the archives regarding the use of a 3 blade Catto prop, and
> I also talked with as many RV pilots that I could who were using this prop
> while at OSH this past summer.
>
> I have not seen or heard any bad comments on the prop, and I am wondering
> if all who are using it still would recommend it.
>
> Also, what are the advantages/disadvantages of using a 3 blade vs a two
> blade? Is the 3 blade that much smoother and quieter than a 2 blade?
>
> I am not looking for maximum speed or climb in my prop. I am a
> flat-lander (Wisconsin) and am just looking for a good all-around prop.
> Smooth and quiet are up there on the list for me.
>
> Sure would like to hear from those in the know.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A N782P (reserved)
> About to close up the top forward skin
> Peshtigo, WI
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: reply to various stuff |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
At 11:30 -0700 28/9/04, Wheeler North wrote:
>Lost ASI. One good reason for manual pitch trim is the marks I have on the
>trim cable control shaft. I can set this to a specific spot and the plane
>will fly within one or two knots of a known airspeed for any given mark.
>This operates independantly of all other systems, and in fact I can do it by
>feel with my eyes closed. To become confident in this one must really go out
>and practice flying slow speed with trim only, using throttle only for
>vertical speed management, and keeping your hand off the stick except for
>turbulence corrections.
Try this with a bunch of weight in the baggage compartment some day
and you'll see a big change in the airspeed vs trim setting
relationship. You can't guarantee how much weight you'll have in the
baggage compartment if the ASI ever fails, so it is worth doing the
practice with various loadings so you will be ready for whatever
happens.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 18
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"RV Matronics List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Windshield Frame |
on mail5
--> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
I visited a local builder who had fabricated an aluminum panel at the base of the
windshield and along the canopy frame on both an RV-6A and -7A. It looked
very nice and neat and he said he did it because he didn't like fiberglass (I
understand that!). It was screwed in place to both the cowl and the screen and
sealed with silicone. Has anybody else done this? I'm considering doing this
because of the neat appearance and also I think replacing a cracked screen
would be infinitely easier. Any thoughts out there in RV Land?
Doug Fischer
90706 Wings
Jenison, MI
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: prop bolt torque |
--> RV-List message posted by: "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl@gvtc.com>
I check the torque about once a month. Sooner if the plane spent any length
of time in a very low humidity environment. I don't loosen the nuts to check
the torque. If they don't move when the wrench indicates 20lbs. then I leave
them alone. It is rare that they move unless I have had the prop off
recently. This is on a -4 with an O-320 and a Sterba prop with over 1000
hrs. in S. Cen. TX. Works for me in my circumstances.
Also I might add that my "wrench" is a cheap fish weighing scale that I
attach to the box end of a long combination wrench. The open end is placed
on the nuts. That way I don't have to take the top cowl off. The torque is
read in "fish pounds". I calibrate it with a 20lb. weight.
Ivan Haecker
----- Original Message -----
From: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: prop bolt torque
> --> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
>
> I have a wooden prop and was checking the torque. I set my torque wrench
to
> the desired setting of 25 ft lb and check the bolts. They all were =>25 ft
> lbs as none of them moved when checked. My question is do you back off the
> bolts and then retorque or is the method I used sufficient?
>
> Scott Frierson
> N162RV
> RV6A Flying 26hrs
>
> On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
> get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | RV Jacks at Harbor Freight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider@qnet.com>
Harbor Freight has a 24" hydraulic jack that extends to 44". It is
currently on sale for $40.00 regularly $60.00. The ad actually says "Not
for Aircraft use" so it must be perfect for jacking up RV's. It has a
5/8" inch hole in the piston and a fitting on the base. I removed the base
fitting which gave the jack a flat base and drilled four holes in the
corners and bolted on a larger steel plate to make it more stable. The top
of the piston can be fitted with all sorts of adapters of your own design.
I have an RV8 so used a 5/8" bolt and a couple pieces of angle iron to make
a platform. It works perfect at the top of the gear leg between the attach
bolts. You could also make a fitting to jack at the tie down point. I
don't personally like jacking there but a lot of guys do it. Anyway if you
need a jack check it out.
Rich Crosley
RV8, painting
Palmdale, CA
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ted Lumpkin <tlump51@sbcglobal.net>
Test. Do not archive.
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