Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:07 AM - Oil fitting (Ron Schreck)
2. 04:15 AM - Re: Oil fitting (richard dudley)
3. 06:39 AM - 4 way HAT switches (Ronnie Brown)
4. 06:43 AM - Re: 4 way HAT switches (RV8ter@aol.com)
5. 07:13 AM - Lasar ignition backup mode (Trevor Davis)
6. 09:29 AM - Re: Lasar ignition backup mode (Randy Lervold)
7. 10:15 AM - Re: rv4 cowl cheeks (steve zicree)
8. 11:12 AM - Re: Attaching Engine to Mount (Jim & Bev Cone)
9. 11:32 AM - Re: Re: rv4 cowl cheeks (Kyle Boatright)
10. 11:42 AM - sensenich prop. (ray sheffield)
11. 12:27 PM - Fuselage Order Questions ()
12. 12:57 PM - Re: Fuselage Order Questions (Kyle Boatright)
13. 01:07 PM - Re: Dynon D-10 Encoder Question (cecilth@juno.com)
14. 02:59 PM - Lasar ignition backup mode (Rick Galati)
15. 04:18 PM - Re: Fuselage Order Questions (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
16. 04:20 PM - Bad Rivet (William King)
17. 05:33 PM - Re: Bad Rivet (jammeter@comcast.net)
18. 05:50 PM - Re: Bad Rivet (Denis Walsh)
19. 06:22 PM - Hobbyair Quck Disconnects (Jordan Grant)
20. 07:00 PM - Re: Fuselage Order Questions (Alex Peterson)
21. 09:15 PM - Off the shelf hardware and Spaceship One (Donald Mei)
22. 09:17 PM - Battery box - securing battery (thomas a. sargent)
23. 09:39 PM - Re: Battery box - securing battery-oops (thomas a. sargent)
Message 1
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0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@earthlink.net>
Maybe I'm just not looking in the right places, but I can't find a source for the
45 degree oil fitting for Lycoming engines. You know the one that you have
to put in before you mount the engine. Any help?
Ron Schreck
Gold Hill Airpark, NC
RV-8, ready to hang engine
ronschreck@earthlink.net
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Hi Ron,
I think the fitting you mean is the 45 degree, 1/8" NPT to tube with a
restritor. It is in the Van's catalog on page 13.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A getting ready to move to the airport.
Ron Schreck wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@earthlink.net>
>
>Maybe I'm just not looking in the right places, but I can't find a source for
the 45 degree oil fitting for Lycoming engines. You know the one that you have
to put in before you mount the engine. Any help?
>
>
>Ron Schreck
>Gold Hill Airpark, NC
>RV-8, ready to hang engine
>ronschreck@earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | 4 way HAT switches |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
You can also purchase these trim switches from Infinity for $15 + $1 for the China
Hat
http://www.infinityaerospace.com/4-way-pic-and-specs.jpg
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 4 way HAT switches |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
ray allen's 4 way hat switch used on their newer line of stick grips is
rated up t 15 amps and are advertised as not need a relay deck with using their
trim servos so you should consider using them if you want to avoid additional
cost/work/complexity.
Message 5
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| Subject: | RV-List:Lasar ignition backup mode |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trevor Davis" <tdavis@netactive.co.za>
My Lasar Ignition system reverts to "backup" mode shortly after T/O
System worked perfectly for first 7-8 flts. Shortly thereafter it started reverting
to
backup mode but corrected itself. This became more frequent and now remains in
backup from just after T/O
I have tried resetting in flt but this works for approx two minutes only. It definately
works during these two min as evidenced by reduction in EGT's and smoother
running of engine. Thus far I have disconnected the CHT probe, checked
for loose wires,chafing and suction connection. All ok. Also re-gelled the contacts.
Tests ok during ground
checks. Also tried various power/RPM/mixture settings to no avail. No excessive
temps in all phases of operation
Any suggestions?
Trevor Davis (South Africa) RV-6 with IO-320
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Lasar ignition backup mode |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> My Lasar Ignition system reverts to "backup" mode shortly after T/O
> System worked perfectly for first 7-8 flts. Shortly thereafter it started
reverting to
> backup mode but corrected itself. This became more frequent and now
remains in backup from just after T/O
> I have tried resetting in flt but this works for approx two minutes only.
It definately works during these two min as evidenced by reduction in EGT's
and smoother running of engine. Thus far I have disconnected the CHT probe,
checked
> for loose wires,chafing and suction connection. All ok. Also re-gelled
the contacts. Tests ok during ground
> checks. Also tried various power/RPM/mixture settings to no avail. No
excessive temps in all phases of operation
> Any suggestions?
>
> Trevor Davis (South Africa) RV-6 with IO-320
Trevor,
The connections to the CHT sensor are a known problem with these units, they
must be perfect or the unit will go into backup mode. If you simply
disconnect the CHT leads it will never get into electronic mode so that
won't work. Unison sometimes recomments soldering or crimping the
connections rather than using spade disconnects. If that isn't it then
consider sending the brain back. Their turnaround is fairly quick (although
South Africa is a bit of jaunt!). BTW, for experimental aircraft LASAR can
be ordered without the CHT sensor circuit, which is the way I ordered mine
and recommend that others do. It is only required for certified aircraft.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | re: rv4 cowl cheeks |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Can anyone share their experiences with the RV4 cowl cheek extensions. Specifically,
how did you deal with the interference between them and the top forward
skin, and also, did you use any filler to fair them to the side skins or just
rivet em on and paint? Thanks.
Steve Zicree
Starting Finishing Kit
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching Engine to Mount |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim & Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
Avery Tools sells a set of alignment pins that I invented that makes getting the
bolts in much easier. In addition to the article mentioned, I taped the rubber
pucks in place and that way you don't have to worry about keeping them in
place by hand. The alignment pins are fairly short and act as a lead through
the holes that lines things up as they are driven through by the bolt that follows.
All you have to do is tap the pin in until just before it gets to the edge
of the mount and then with the bolt, give it just one good tap and then the
bolt holds things aligned. I mounted my engine by myself in about 30 minutes.
The pin falls out of the other side as you push the bolt through. The short
pins are for the bottom bolts and the longer pins are for the top ones.
Jim Cone
3-peat Offender
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: re: rv4 cowl cheeks |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
A friend with a nice RV-4 simply trimmed the cheek extensions to butt
against the top skin. I might shim the extensions with 0.032 and avoid
trimming them.
He didn't try to fair them to the side skins, and I think that's the right
approach.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List: re: rv4 cowl cheeks
> --> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
>
> Can anyone share their experiences with the RV4 cowl cheek extensions.
> Specifically, how did you deal with the interference between them and the
> top forward skin, and also, did you use any filler to fair them to the
> side skins or just rivet em on and paint? Thanks.
>
> Steve Zicree
> Starting Finishing Kit
>
>
>
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "ray sheffield" <rv8a@csranet.com>
I have a 70cm-78 sensenich propeller with van's spacer, spinner, and bolts
for sale.
This is used on a lycoming o-320 160 hp engine. Less than 200 hrs very good
condition.
$1500
Jerry Berger
803 663 9974
south Carolina
Message 11
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| Subject: | Fuselage Order Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
Just getting ready to send in the order for the 7A fuselage kit, and I am having
trouble deciding on a few options. I searched the archives, but I didn't really
get all my questions answered.
1) Steps - 0, 1, or 2? - I believe I have read that there is not a real speed penalty
in adding the steps. I am also thinking it would look odd to have just
one. Current thinking is to go with two. I am about 5'11", and I am not super
worried about accomadating passengers. That being said...if there's no speed
penalty, then I guess it makes sense to add them anyway.
2) Aileron trim - manual vs electric - Where would the knob get located if it were
manual? Does it interfere with anything? I went manual with the elevator.
Only reason I can think to go electric is if it is logistically much cleaner
with the electric.
3) Static air - I installed the Gretz mount and am waiting for the never ending
Dynon heated pitot. Would I need the static kit? The plane will be IFR.
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
www.scottsrv7a.com
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Order Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuselage Order Questions
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
> All,
>
> Just getting ready to send in the order for the 7A fuselage kit, and I am
> having trouble deciding on a few options. I searched the archives, but I
> didn't really get all my questions answered.
>
> 1) Steps - 0, 1, or 2? - I believe I have read that there is not a real
> speed penalty in adding the steps. I am also thinking it would look odd
> to have just one. Current thinking is to go with two. I am about 5'11",
> and I am not super worried about accomadating passengers. That being
> said...if there's no speed penalty, then I guess it makes sense to add
> them anyway.
I'm sure the steps cost a little speed. Maybe not measurable unless you
have NASA's test equipment... That said, I'd install both steps. All of
your passengers won't be spry, and one day you won't be either. It is a
chore for my wife to get in and out of my -6, even with the flaps down.
When I park the airplane outside on overnight trips, I lock the flaps up and
the canopy closed, so I've got quite a first step onto the wing and over the
flap. A step would be handy.
> 2) Aileron trim - manual vs electric - Where would the knob get located if
> it were manual? Does it interfere with anything? I went manual with the
> elevator. Only reason I can think to go electric is if it is logistically
> much cleaner with the electric.
In the -6, the manual trim goes between the seats, behind the fuel selector.
Not in the way of anything.
> 3) Static air - I installed the Gretz mount and am waiting for the never
> ending Dynon heated pitot. Would I need the static kit? The plane will be
> IFR.
I imagine so, unless the pitot system (Gretz?) has a static port built in.
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Wings
> www.scottsrv7a.com
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon D-10 Encoder Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: cecilth@juno.com
On Mon, 23 Jun 2003 19:33:51 -0700 "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> That's wild! Thanks for the clarification.
>
> So with a serializer, I presume the Dynon can encode for the GPS
> (GX-60) as
> well. Nice. Although as far as I know, it costs just as much to
> buy a
> standalone serializer as it does just to buy a Sandia or Trans-Cal
> dual-output encoder in the first place.
>
> Is the EFIS-D10 adjustable just like any other blind encoder? I
> guess I
> should call Dynon one of these days, but I figure the more info we
> can
> disseminate here the less loaded Dynon will be on the phones, the
> quicker
> we'll all get our units shipped.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon D-10 Encoder Question
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons"
> <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
> >
> > I just went through that thought process also. Terribly wrong I
> was. The
> > Dynon produces "Gray code" that the transponder needs to report
> altitude.
> > This should be emphasized a lot more in there literature. In my
> mind this
> > is another very good selling point.
> >
> > The plug and play panel with the Dynon turned out great, I got a
> lot of
> > comments on the unit "flying" on the bench. I can't say enough
> about how
> > impressed I am with the installation and the ease wiring it in.
> >
> > Noel
> > Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
> > "We do builder assistance!"
> > Toll Free: 866-859-0390
> > info@blueskyaviation.net <mailto:info@blueskyaviation.net>
> > www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan
> Checkoway
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon D-10 Encoder Question
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> > My understanding is that the Dynon requires an encoder INPUT, it
> doesn't
> > produce encoder output. I could be completely wrong. Take a look
> at
> > http://www.dynonavionics.com/docs/efis-d10wiring.html and you'll
> see that
> > "Blind encoder gray code outputs" are required. I interpret that
> to mean
> > "output *from* an encoder," not output *as* an encoder.
> >
> > I intend to confirm this with Dynon once I have the EFIS-D10 and
> am wiring
> > it in, assuming the installation manual doesn't make this crystal
> clear.
> >
> > I have the Sandia SAE5-35 which seems to be one of the better
> units out
> > there for the price...provides both gray code and serial output
> for a GPS
> > (GX-60 in my case) and a transponder (GTX-320A in my case) and the
> Dynon.
> > Nice mechanism for quickly removing the unit from its mounting
> base with
> no
> > tools, too.
> >
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon D-10 Encoder Question
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
> <lhelming@sigecom.net>
> > >
> > > Mike: From the Dynon documentation I read from the web site at
> > > www.dynonavionics.com I do not see where the D10 unit performs
> the
> > altitude
> > > encoder function. It would seem to me an external encoder would
> still
> be
> > > needed. Some one that has installed could chime in on this
> > > concern/question.
> > >
> > > I'd like to know if it does the encoder function that could be
> output to
> a
> > > transponder and/or GPS. I have been looking at the Sandia
> encoder for
> > that
> > > function.
> > > .
> > > Larry in Indiana, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360
> > > Working on Finish Kit
> > >
> > > Aviation in itself is not inherently dangerous. But ..... is
> terribly
> > > unforgiving of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect.
> > > ..Author unknown
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <N223RV@aol.com>
> > > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: RV-List: Dynon D-10 Encoder Question
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > My Dynon D-10 is supposed to be shipped this week (FYI, I'm
> order
> #199).
> > > I
> > > > have a question about the included encoder. Is anyone flying
> using
> the
> > > Dynon
> > > > encoder? If so, how does it work (good, bad, needed
> adjustment,
> etc.).
> > > >
> > > > I am contemplating whether to keep my stand alone encoder, or
> remove
> it
> > > and
> > > > just utilize the Dynon's built in encoder.
> > > >
> > > > Any thoughts?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks
> > > > Mike Kraus
> > > > N223RV RV-4 Flying
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | ri˙˙˙˙@yah˙˙˙˙om˙˙˙˙age ˙˙˙˙font˙˙˙˙>˙˙˙˙nter˙˙˙˙ockq˙˙˙˙><˙˙˙˙td><˙˙˙˙e bo˙˙˙˙=0 c˙˙˙˙addi˙˙˙˙>
˙˙˙˙˙˙˙˙> ˙˙˙˙ to ˙˙˙˙ IND˙˙˙˙font˙˙˙˙>˙˙˙˙˙˙˙˙REF=˙˙˙˙SSAG˙˙˙˙>˙˙˙˙P˙˙˙˙OUS<˙˙˙˙t><˙˙˙˙ siz˙˙˙˙ fac˙˙˙˙mes ˙˙˙˙Roma˙˙˙˙> Sk˙˙˙˙o PR˙˙˙˙US M˙˙˙˙ge
˙˙˙˙| ˙˙˙˙<˙˙˙˙/a><˙˙˙˙ | ˙˙˙˙t si˙˙˙˙1 fa˙˙˙˙imes˙˙˙˙ Rom˙˙˙˙b> S˙˙˙˙to N˙˙˙˙Mess˙˙˙˙/fon˙˙˙˙b><˙˙˙˙
LIS˙˙˙˙ont>˙˙˙˙˙˙˙˙> ˙˙˙˙y to˙˙˙˙T Re˙˙˙˙ing ˙˙˙˙ Mes˙˙˙˙<˙˙˙˙/td>˙˙˙˙>
˙˙˙˙ENDE˙˙˙˙ont>˙˙˙˙˙˙˙˙> ˙˙˙˙y to˙˙˙˙DER ˙˙˙˙rdin˙˙˙˙is M˙˙˙˙ge
˙˙˙˙ble>˙˙˙˙>˙˙˙˙T˙˙˙˙ <˙˙˙˙t>0˙˙˙˙:48 ˙˙˙˙ST U˙˙˙˙>˙˙˙˙>˙˙˙˙: ˙˙˙˙nt><˙˙˙˙ siz˙˙˙˙face˙˙˙˙mes ˙˙˙˙roma˙˙˙˙imes˙˙˙˙lor=˙˙˙˙7000˙˙˙˙>˙˙˙˙ref=˙˙˙˙lto:˙˙˙˙erdh˙˙˙˙l.co˙˙˙˙oppe˙˙˙˙@aol˙˙˙˙˙˙˙˙˙˙˙˙nt><˙˙˙˙˙˙˙˙S˙˙˙˙ct: ˙˙˙˙<˙˙˙˙: Fu˙˙˙˙ge O˙˙˙˙ Que˙˙˙˙nsHop˙˙˙˙hh@a˙˙˙˙omtx_jayhawk@excite.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
> All,
>
> Just getting ready to send in the order for the 7A fuselage kit, and I am
> having trouble deciding on a few options. I searched the archives, but I
> didn't really get all my questions answered.
>
> 1) Steps - 0, 1, or 2? - I believe I have read that there is not a real
> speed penalty in adding the steps. I am also thinking it would look odd to have
> just one. Current thinking is to go with two. I am about 5'11", and I am
> not super worried about accomadating passengers. That being said...if there's
> no speed penalty, then I guess it makes sense to add them anyway.
>
> 2) Aileron trim - manual vs electric - Where would the knob get located if
> it were manual? Does it interfere with anything? I went manual with the
> elevator. Only reason I can think to go electric is if it is logistically much
> cleaner with the electric.
>
> 3) Static air - I installed the Gretz mount and am waiting for the never
> ending Dynon heated pitot. Would I need the static kit? The plane will be IFR.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Wings
> www.scottsrv7a.com
>
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "William King" <bill@kane-king.com>
I was hoping someone could help me. I just started on my RV-7A. Just
finished the Horizontal stabilizer and then noticed that I had a bad rivet.
The rivet is loose, but it won't come out. It's in a part that I can no
longer get to the back of without drilling out a lot of rivets. If you click
on a link you can see a picture of it.
Does anyone have any ideas?
http://kane-king.com/rv7aproject/images/BadRivet.jpg
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: jammeter@comcast.net
I'd drill it out and replace with a CS4-4 ( I think that's the part number...
it's been 15 years since I built my RV-6). Before you paint simply put a little
"bondo" in the rivit hole. As you build, keep in mind you're not building
a piano.... Van told me once that you could leave out every 10th rivet and the
plane would still be safe to fly.
I just remembered... those rivets are 3/32nd's... so use an appropriate pop rivet
of that size.
John Ammeter
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "William King"
>
> I was hoping someone could help me. I just started on my RV-7A. Just
> finished the Horizontal stabilizer and then noticed that I had a bad rivet.
> The rivet is loose, but it won't come out. It's in a part that I can no
> longer get to the back of without drilling out a lot of rivets. If you click
> on a link you can see a picture of it.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas?
>
> http://kane-king.com/rv7aproject/images/BadRivet.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
I'd drill it out and replace with a CS4-4 ( I think that's the part number... it's
been 15 years since I built my RV-6). Before you paint simply put a little
"bondo" in the rivit hole. As you build, keep in mind you're not building a piano....
Van told me once that you could leave out every 10th rivet and the plane
would still be safe to fly.
I just remembered... those rivets are 3/32nd's... so use an appropriate pop rivet
of that size.
John Ammeter
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "William King" <BILL@KANE-KING.COM>
I was hoping someone could help me. I just started on my RV-7A. Just
finished the Horizontal stabilizer and then noticed that I had a bad rivet.
The rivet is loose, but it won't come out. It's in a part that I can no
longer get to the back of without drilling out a lot of rivets. If you click
on a link you can see a picture of it.
Does anyone have any ideas?
http://kane-king.com/rv7aproject/images/BadRivet.jpg
ads or any other
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
First off rejoice at finding it now. How embarrassing when the DAR
taps on the skin and watches for dancing rivets!.
Stuff a little carpet tape (double side sticky) under the head then
drill it out. After clean up, put a pop rivet in.
Don't worry the stub will work its way out on your initial stall tests.
When I show someone how to rivet, I spend most of the time showing them
how to drill out rivets.
Denis
On Oct 3, 2004, at 5:20 PM, William King wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "William King" <bill@kane-king.com>
>
> I was hoping someone could help me. I just started on my RV-7A. Just
> finished the Horizontal stabilizer and then noticed that I had a bad
> rivet.
> The rivet is loose, but it won't come out. It's in a part that I can no
> longer get to the back of without drilling out a lot of rivets. If you
> click
> on a link you can see a picture of it.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas?
>
> http://kane-king.com/rv7aproject/images/BadRivet.jpg
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Hobbyair Quck Disconnects |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Does anyone know where I can get a quick-disconnect fitting that is
compatible with those used on the HobbyAir respirator system?
Thank you,
Jordan Grant
RV-6 Trying to paint
Message 20
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| Subject: | Fuselage Order Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Scott,
I see in your original post that you plan to have the plane IFR. You
will definitely want the aileron trim, manual is just fine.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 530 hours
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
> Fly the airplane first with no trim at all. I haven't
> touched mine (manual),
> and I'm seriously thinking of taking it out and throwing it
> away. If you
> decide later that you need it, it will be just as easy to
> install then.
> > 2) Aileron trim - manual vs electric - Where would the knob get
> > located if
> > it were manual? Does it interfere with anything? I went
> manual with the
> > elevator. Only reason I can think to go electric is if it
> is logistically much
> > cleaner with the electric.
> >
> > 3) Static air - I installed the Gretz mount and am waiting for the
> > never
> > ending Dynon heated pitot. Would I need the static kit?
> The plane will be IFR.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Scott
> > 7A Wings
> > www.scottsrv7a.com
\
Message 21
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| Subject: | Off the shelf hardware and Spaceship One |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
The Rutan boys have released videos of they're successful first X-prize
launch last week. I was watching it and noticed something really cool. I
heard that there was a Dynon EFIS on board but there it was in the video.
So I paused the video and holy @#$% what is that. Why, its a Garmin GPS 196
on the glare shield. NASA would use a $21,000,000 custom ring laser gyro
inertial system, but these guys used an off the shelf handheld GPS. Now I
just wonder where they mounted the antenna.
By the way, details, the video is here:
http://www.scaled.com/projects/tierone/video/X-Prize-flight-1.wmv
The scene where the Dynon and Garmin are visible is 1:30 into it.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Battery box - securing battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
I have a circa 1999 RV-6A kit with the Battery box in the cabin. It
looks to me like the battery has to be restrained somehow or its
terminals could short to the inside top of the battery battery box. The
QB manual doesn't seem to mention battery installation.
One could rig some sort of strap I suppose, or perhaps attach some
blocks of wood or nylon to the inside of the box cover. They'd have to
have just the right thickness to hold down the battery when the cover
was secured.
1) What is the usual way of holding the battery out of harms way?
2) I suppose the battery cables will exit the box through large
grommeted holes in the side? Is there a better/safer way to do this?
Thanks.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Battery box - securing battery-oops |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
thomas a. sargent wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> I have a circa 1999 RV-6A kit with the Battery box in the cabin. It
> looks to me like the battery has to be restrained somehow or its
> terminals could short to the inside top of the battery battery box. The
> QB manual doesn't seem to mention battery installation.
Sorry, I was going off a picture in Aircraft Spruce Catalog. Apparently
the Concorde RG-25 has recessed terminals that would have a pretty hard
time shorting to the battery box.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
do not archive
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