Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:38 AM - Re: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
2. 04:58 AM - Painting information, please (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
3. 06:00 AM - Re: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling (cgalley)
4. 06:29 AM - Re: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling (Alex Peterson)
5. 07:33 AM - Re: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling (Dan Checkoway)
6. 08:40 AM - Re: Throttle quadrant installation (Dan Checkoway)
7. 08:42 AM - Re: Randy Simpson where are you? (Dan Checkoway)
8. 09:08 AM - Fw: Need help in Mexico, MO 10/23-24 (Dan Checkoway)
9. 10:20 AM - Re: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling (steve zicree)
10. 10:26 AM - Re: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling (JOHN STARN)
11. 10:35 AM - Re: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling (Jim & Bev Cone)
12. 10:56 AM - Re: Opening 7A-QB Wing crate (MHRV)
13. 11:25 AM - Re: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling (Dan Checkoway)
14. 01:22 PM - removing allen head plug in engine block (Dave Mader)
15. 02:02 PM - CS prop (Wheeler North)
16. 02:02 PM - Re: removing allen head plug in engine block (Scott Jackson)
17. 02:26 PM - E Mag Air (Wheeler North)
18. 02:44 PM - Re: removing allen head plug in engine block (cgalley)
19. 05:26 PM - Scaled Composite Pilot (richard dudley)
20. 05:52 PM - Re: Hann WigWag (Jsd41@aol.com)
21. 05:55 PM - Re; CS prop (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
22. 06:11 PM - Re: E Mag Air (Dave Bristol)
23. 06:41 PM - Re: E Mag Air clamav-milter version 0.80 on zoot.lafn.org (N67BT@aol.com)
24. 07:03 PM - Re: E Mag Air (steve zicree)
25. 07:17 PM - Re: Scaled Composite Pilot (Jerry Hansen)
26. 07:50 PM - Re: Scaled Composite Pilot (Michael Schipper)
27. 08:03 PM - Re: bring on the fuel tanks! (Doug Brinlee)
28. 08:10 PM - Re: Hann WigWag (Larry Bowen)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
higher rpm for a sustained period.
I knew a bilder who just couldn't get it to cycle at all on the ground until he
finally decided to fly and it finally started to change pitch on the first flight.
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ted Lumpkin
>
> I am getting my RV-4 prepped for the first flight and did my first run-up today
> to continue with engine tests. When I tried to cycle the prop nothing happened.
> No perceptible rpm drop or change in any way. Engine runs fine otherwise.
> Here's the vital statistics:
> Overhauled Hartzell compact hub prop
> Overhauled Woodward governor
> IO-360 from Bart LaLonde plumbed for c/s prop
> Run-up rpm - 1700 rpm
> Oil temp - 178 degrees
> The engine and prop were in storage for about 3yrs.
>
> I've checked the basics: cable connected, governor arm is moving, prop oil
> line connected with no leaks.
>
> Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
>
> Ted
>
>
>
>
>
>
higher rpm for a sustained period.
I knew a bilder who just couldn't get it to cycle at all on the ground until he
finally decided to fly and it finally started to change pitch on thefirst flight.
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Ted Lumpkin <TLUMP51@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
I am getting my RV-4 prepped for the first flight and did my first run-up today
to continue with engine tests. When I tried to cycle the prop nothing happened.
No perceptible rpm drop or change in any way. Engine runs fine otherwise.
Here's the vital statistics:
Overhauled Hartzell compact hub prop
Overhauled Woodward governor
IO-360 from Bart LaLonde plumbed for c/s prop
Run-up rpm - 1700 rpm
Oil temp - 178 degrees
The engine and prop were in storage for about 3yrs.
I've checked the basics: cable connected, governor arm is moving, prop oil
line connected with no leaks.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
Ted
p://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
Message 2
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Subject: | Painting information, please |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Howdy list-
Does anyone know who the owners are of the RV-4 and RV-8 in the RazorsEdge RV
Painting shop in Tuscaloosa? Would appreciate any contact information on
these or from other recent customers.
Thanks and do not archive
Mark Phillips
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Has the storage plug in the flange been removed. You will have to remove
the prop to check. While there make sure there is not a hole in the back
plug. Sometimes things get done contrary to what we ask for and think we
have.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump51@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV-List: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ted Lumpkin <tlump51@sbcglobal.net>
>
> I am getting my RV-4 prepped for the first flight and did my first run-up
today to continue with engine tests. When I tried to cycle the prop nothing
happened. No perceptible rpm drop or change in any way. Engine runs fine
otherwise.
> Here's the vital statistics:
> Overhauled Hartzell compact hub prop
> Overhauled Woodward governor
> IO-360 from Bart LaLonde plumbed for c/s prop
> Run-up rpm - 1700 rpm
> Oil temp - 178 degrees
> The engine and prop were in storage for about 3yrs.
>
> I've checked the basics: cable connected, governor arm is moving, prop
oil line connected with no leaks.
>
> Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
>
> Ted
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> I am getting my RV-4 prepped for the first flight and did my
> first run-up today to continue with engine tests. When I
> tried to cycle the prop nothing happened. No perceptible rpm
> drop or change in any way. Engine runs fine otherwise.
> Here's the vital statistics: Overhauled Hartzell compact hub
> prop Overhauled Woodward governor IO-360 from Bart LaLonde
> plumbed for c/s prop Run-up rpm - 1700 rpm Oil temp - 178
> degrees The engine and prop were in storage for about 3yrs.
>
> I've checked the basics: cable connected, governor arm is
> moving, prop oil line connected with no leaks.
>
> Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
>
> Ted
Ted, specifically what do you mean by "tried to cycle the prop"? Run
the engine at something like 2000 rpm and pull the prop control all the
way back. Leave it in that position for a while - maybe a minute? If
you begin to see rpm drop, then push it back in and repeat. You need to
compress the air in the system by displacing it with oil. The air will
purge itself after a few cycles. If this still doesn't work, the plug
might still be in the crank.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 531 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I couldn't get my Jihostroj (aka MT) governor to cycle at first at 1600 and
1700 RPM. But as soon as I tried it at around 1900 RPM it worked fine.
When I do my run-up these days I use 1800 RPM.
Just look for an oil pressure drop when you yank the prop control. I
suspect that at 1700 RPM, even if the prop doesn't cycle, you'll probably
see about a 1-2 psi drop (assuming you have the gauge capability to see that
fine a change)...which would at least confirm that something's happening at
the governor. I could be wrong about this.
Anyway, try 1900 -- and allow it several seconds if you have to when cycling
for the very first time ever -- and I suspect you'll be happy-happy.
One GREAT thing about Bart is that when I had this problem, we troubleshot
it over the phone, and he was just about ready to send down to me (in the
Los Angeles area) all this equipment to hook up to the engine to monitor
various conditions that were way over my head -- pressures here and there,
etc. The point is that he was more than willing to get the problem solved
no matter what that meant. You picked a good engine builder, and I wouldn't
hesitate to call him for help if you can't get this thing working with a
simple higher RPM thing.
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
<alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
> > I am getting my RV-4 prepped for the first flight and did my
> > first run-up today to continue with engine tests. When I
> > tried to cycle the prop nothing happened. No perceptible rpm
> > drop or change in any way. Engine runs fine otherwise.
> > Here's the vital statistics: Overhauled Hartzell compact hub
> > prop Overhauled Woodward governor IO-360 from Bart LaLonde
> > plumbed for c/s prop Run-up rpm - 1700 rpm Oil temp - 178
> > degrees The engine and prop were in storage for about 3yrs.
> >
> > I've checked the basics: cable connected, governor arm is
> > moving, prop oil line connected with no leaks.
> >
> > Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
> >
> > Ted
>
> Ted, specifically what do you mean by "tried to cycle the prop"? Run
> the engine at something like 2000 rpm and pull the prop control all the
> way back. Leave it in that position for a while - maybe a minute? If
> you begin to see rpm drop, then push it back in and repeat. You need to
> compress the air in the system by displacing it with oil. The air will
> purge itself after a few cycles. If this still doesn't work, the plug
> might still be in the crank.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A 531 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
Message 6
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|
Subject: | Re: Throttle quadrant installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
All you really need will be two 90-degree brackets to attach whatever
quadrant you use to the panel -- and then you'll need to fabricate a cable
bulkhead, where the threaded part of the cable sheaths will anchor and
adjust.
I suspect that in a center arrangement, you could run two .063" angles
fore-aft between the panel and sub-panel. Then build your bulkhead between
those angles. Just slide the bulkhead over the cable ends, hook up the
clevis ends to the quadrant, and just slide the bulkhead fore/aft so that
it's centered on the threaded part of the cable sheaths. Then mark and
drill angle attachements to the angles running fore-aft. Should be pretty
straightforward.
For what it's worth, here's a photo of the cable bulkhead I made for my
left-hand quadrant arrangement on my RV-7:
http://www.rvproject.com/20030830.html That sort of shows the general
concept of the bulkhead, although yours can be much simpler since you have
more room to work with in the center of the panel.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh@argo.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Throttle quadrant installation
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Shirley Harding" <shirleyh@argo.net.au>
>
> Hi Listers - I wonder if any one can direct me to pictures/drawings/advice
on installing the Vans throttle quadrant in the centre of an RV6. I have
opted not to install the central console, and I don't like the vernier
controls, so I want to replace them with the quadrant style. Any advice
greatly appreciated.
>
> Shirley Harding
> RV6 VH ASF
> Finish kit
> Perth Western Australia
>
>
Message 7
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|
Subject: | Re: Randy Simpson where are you? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Randy was slow to respond to my order as well but he saved the day by
getting them to me in time for Copperstate. Everything everybody says about
these Ti-Downs is true. In the hard soil at A39 the titanium corkscrews
went right in with minimal effort...while I had to hammer the crap out of my
tent stakes to get those in. Good stuff, Randy.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Randy Simpson where are you?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
>
> Scott
>
> My experience was similar to Ivan's. I placed my order in March when
Randy
> was offering a discount, free shipping or something of that nature and
then
> kind of forgot it for a while. He did respond to my e-mail and said he
had
> been swamped with orders at that time. I have been under the impression
> that he works for the titanium company and that his Ti-Downs are a spare
> time project. I received my order sometime in June and considered the
> product well worth the wait.
>
> Dean Van Winkle
> RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl@gvtc.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Randy Simpson where are you?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl@gvtc.com>
> >
> > I can only add that I also placed an order about 6 months ago and forgot
> > about it for a couple of months. I was looking for a way to contact him
> > after I realized that I hadn't received them when they showed up.
Perhaps
> he
> > has more orders than he can fill. I seem to remember he does this in his
> > spare time. Having met him once, I am inclined to think you won't have a
> > problem, unless of course you need them now.
> > Do not archive
> >
> > Ivan Haecker -4 1100hrs. S.Cen. TX
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Bluecavu@aol.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Randy Simpson where are you?
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Bluecavu@aol.com
> > >
> > > Anyone know as to the whereabouts of Randy Simpson of Airtime
> > Manufacturing?
> > > -the guy who makes the Titanium Tie-downs?
> > >
> > > I placed an online order for a set back on August 14 and Pay-Pal'ed
the
> > $95
> > > to him and haven't seen anything. I've sent him three emails since
then
> > and
> > > gotten no response whatsoever.
> > >
> > > Is his business still viable? Is he still viable?
> > >
> > > Scott
> > > N4ZW
> > > 150 RV-4
> > >
> > > do not archive
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 8
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|
Subject: | Fw: Need help in Mexico, MO 10/23-24 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Dan Masys is a good friend of mine from SoCal -- he built his RV-7A before I
built my -7 and was a tremendous source of information and inspriation for
me. He could use some help in Missouri...I don't think he's on this list,
so I'm forwarding his email below. If anybody can help out it is much
appreciated!
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "dmasys" <dmasys-at-cox.net>
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Need help in Mexico, MO 10/23-24
My RV-7A has been AOG in Mexico, Missouri (KMYJ) since August 7th.
The IO-360 developed a partial power loss returning from OSH, and
after making a precautionary landing there, we found 3 hold down studs
snapped off the #4 cylinder. The engine was shipped to Central
Cylinder Service in Omaha, and they have rebuilt it (actually, they
had to build a new one since the crankshaft was cracked, cases were
unusable, and 2 cylinders were cracked. Other than that it was fine
;-) ).
The new engine is being shipped to MYJ late next week, and I am flying
commercially back to Missouri on 10/22, with the plan to remount the
engine, reattach the plumbing and wiring that weekend, and fly back to
San Diego which is the plane's home base. I could really use extra RV
builder hands putting everything back together Saturday 10/23 and/or
Sunday 10/24. Will be working more or less dawn to dusk both days to
re-install everything FWF.
If any RV'ers happen to be in the neighborhood of Mexico, MO memorial
airport and would be interested in helping, please e-mail me at
dmasys-at-cox.net (replace -at- with @). Thanks in advance.
-Dan Masys
RV-7A N747DL
http://us.click.yahoo.com/J8kdrA/y20IAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
Online help on this group at:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Message 9
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|
Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Are you suggesting that taking it up in the air when he doesn't know WHY
it's not working is a good idea? I'm sure I must be missing something.
Steve Zicree
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky" <luckymacy@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> higher rpm for a sustained period.
>
> I knew a bilder who just couldn't get it to cycle at all on the ground
until he finally decided to fly and it finally started to change pitch on
the first flight.
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Ted Lumpkin
> >
> > I am getting my RV-4 prepped for the first flight and did my first
run-up today
> > to continue with engine tests. When I tried to cycle the prop nothing
happened.
> > No perceptible rpm drop or change in any way. Engine runs fine
otherwise.
> > Here's the vital statistics:
> > Overhauled Hartzell compact hub prop
> > Overhauled Woodward governor
> > IO-360 from Bart LaLonde plumbed for c/s prop
> > Run-up rpm - 1700 rpm
> > Oil temp - 178 degrees
> > The engine and prop were in storage for about 3yrs.
> >
> > I've checked the basics: cable connected, governor arm is moving, prop
oil
> > line connected with no leaks.
> >
> > Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
> >
> > Ted
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> higher rpm for a sustained period.
>
> I knew a bilder who just couldn't get it to cycle at all on the ground
until he finally decided to fly and it finally started to change pitch on
thefirst flight.
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: Ted Lumpkin <TLUMP51@SBCGLOBAL.NET>
>
> I am getting my RV-4 prepped for the first flight and did my first run-up
today
> to continue with engine tests. When I tried to cycle the prop nothing
happened.
> No perceptible rpm drop or change in any way. Engine runs fine otherwise.
> Here's the vital statistics:
> Overhauled Hartzell compact hub prop
> Overhauled Woodward governor
> IO-360 from Bart LaLonde plumbed for c/s prop
> Run-up rpm - 1700 rpm
> Oil temp - 178 degrees
> The engine and prop were in storage for about 3yrs.
>
> I've checked the basics: cable connected, governor arm is moving, prop
oil
> line connected with no leaks.
>
> Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
>
>
> Ted
>
>
> p://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
>
>
Message 10
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|
Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
With HRII N561FS & two runs up with new engine & prop.(s) We chained the
tail down & used my 240# draped over the tail, ran the power up & finally
got the prop(s) to cycle. WHY the chain & extra weight ? To keep this tail
dragger off it's nose..... There have been several RV's when that kind of
power is applied and the brakes are set, has placed the spinner on the
ground or at least when ding-ding-ding with the prop tips. IMNSHO 1700 is
not enough BUT 1900 w/o the tail tied down is unthinkable. KABONG Do not
Archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I couldn't get my Jihostroj (aka MT) governor to cycle at first at 1600
> and
> 1700 RPM. But as soon as I tried it at around 1900 RPM it worked fine.
> When I do my run-up these days I use 1800 RPM.
>
> Just look for an oil pressure drop when you yank the prop control. I
> suspect that at 1700 RPM, even if the prop doesn't cycle, you'll probably
> see about a 1-2 psi drop (assuming you have the gauge capability to see
> that
> fine a change)...which would at least confirm that something's happening
> at
> the governor. I could be wrong about this.
>
> Anyway, try 1900 -- and allow it several seconds if you have to when
> cycling
> for the very first time ever -- and I suspect you'll be happy-happy.
>
> One GREAT thing about Bart is that when I had this problem, we troubleshot
> it over the phone, and he was just about ready to send down to me (in the
> Los Angeles area) all this equipment to hook up to the engine to monitor
> various conditions that were way over my head -- pressures here and there,
> etc. The point is that he was more than willing to get the problem solved
> no matter what that meant. You picked a good engine builder, and I
> wouldn't
> hesitate to call him for help if you can't get this thing working with a
> simple higher RPM thing.
>
> Best of luck,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>>
>>
>> > I am getting my RV-4 prepped for the first flight and did my
>> > first run-up today to continue with engine tests. When I
>> > tried to cycle the prop nothing happened. No perceptible rpm
>> > drop or change in any way. Engine runs fine otherwise.
>> > Here's the vital statistics: Overhauled Hartzell compact hub
>> > prop Overhauled Woodward governor IO-360 from Bart LaLonde
>> > plumbed for c/s prop Run-up rpm - 1700 rpm Oil temp - 178
>> > degrees The engine and prop were in storage for about 3yrs.
>> >
>> > I've checked the basics: cable connected, governor arm is
>> > moving, prop oil line connected with no leaks.
>> >
>> > Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
>> >
>> > Ted
>>
>> Ted, specifically what do you mean by "tried to cycle the prop"? Run
>> the engine at something like 2000 rpm and pull the prop control all the
>> way back. Leave it in that position for a while - maybe a minute? If
>> you begin to see rpm drop, then push it back in and repeat. You need to
>> compress the air in the system by displacing it with oil. The air will
>> purge itself after a few cycles. If this still doesn't work, the plug
>> might still be in the crank.
>>
>> Alex Peterson
>> RV6-A 531 hours
>> Maple Grove, MN
>>
>> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim & Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
Keep trying to cycle the prop. It takes a while for the oil to fill up the prop
hub.
Jim Cone
3-peat offender
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Opening 7A-QB Wing crate |
--> RV-List message posted by: "MHRV" <MHRV@houston.rr.com>
Thanks Mickey, you answered my question. I wasn't sure how they were secured
in the crate and would have hated for the wing to fall on the garage floor
as I took the side off the box. Unfortunately laying the crate down is not
an option so I will have to deal with the billions of nails!
Best regards,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Opening 7A-QB Wing crate
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>
>>Just curious if anyone has opened the 7A QB wing crate in the upright
>>position or is this ill advised? Unfortunately, I don't have an easy way
>>to
>>lay it down so I need to open it upright.
>
> My 8 QB wings were screwed to the box on the spar end, but
> not on the wingtip. They use expandable foam bags for the
> packing. I'd try hard to find a way to lay it down before
> opening the box. It's really hard to get the box open due
> to the billions of nails shot in everywhere with a nail gun.
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Good advice!!!
For what it's worth, I got my RV-7's tail to lift up when cycling the prop
at 2200 RPM (200hp, compact hub 72" Hartzell). The tail was tied down but
it did lift a couple of inches. That was with just me and the pilot seat in
the plane, no other interior panels, pax stick, carpet, 2nd seat & body,
etc. I haven't tested it with all the normal crap in the plane, but it
would be a good data point to have. I'll just use 2200 as my "it's goin'
over" point.
do not archive
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling
> --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>
> With HRII N561FS & two runs up with new engine & prop.(s) We chained the
> tail down & used my 240# draped over the tail, ran the power up & finally
> got the prop(s) to cycle. WHY the chain & extra weight ? To keep this
tail
> dragger off it's nose..... There have been several RV's when that kind of
> power is applied and the brakes are set, has placed the spinner on the
> ground or at least when ding-ding-ding with the prop tips. IMNSHO 1700 is
> not enough BUT 1900 w/o the tail tied down is unthinkable. KABONG Do not
> Archive.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> > I couldn't get my Jihostroj (aka MT) governor to cycle at first at 1600
> > and
> > 1700 RPM. But as soon as I tried it at around 1900 RPM it worked fine.
> > When I do my run-up these days I use 1800 RPM.
> >
> > Just look for an oil pressure drop when you yank the prop control. I
> > suspect that at 1700 RPM, even if the prop doesn't cycle, you'll
probably
> > see about a 1-2 psi drop (assuming you have the gauge capability to see
> > that
> > fine a change)...which would at least confirm that something's happening
> > at
> > the governor. I could be wrong about this.
> >
> > Anyway, try 1900 -- and allow it several seconds if you have to when
> > cycling
> > for the very first time ever -- and I suspect you'll be happy-happy.
> >
> > One GREAT thing about Bart is that when I had this problem, we
troubleshot
> > it over the phone, and he was just about ready to send down to me (in
the
> > Los Angeles area) all this equipment to hook up to the engine to monitor
> > various conditions that were way over my head -- pressures here and
there,
> > etc. The point is that he was more than willing to get the problem
solved
> > no matter what that meant. You picked a good engine builder, and I
> > wouldn't
> > hesitate to call him for help if you can't get this thing working with a
> > simple higher RPM thing.
> >
> > Best of luck,
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> > <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> >>
> >>
> >> > I am getting my RV-4 prepped for the first flight and did my
> >> > first run-up today to continue with engine tests. When I
> >> > tried to cycle the prop nothing happened. No perceptible rpm
> >> > drop or change in any way. Engine runs fine otherwise.
> >> > Here's the vital statistics: Overhauled Hartzell compact hub
> >> > prop Overhauled Woodward governor IO-360 from Bart LaLonde
> >> > plumbed for c/s prop Run-up rpm - 1700 rpm Oil temp - 178
> >> > degrees The engine and prop were in storage for about 3yrs.
> >> >
> >> > I've checked the basics: cable connected, governor arm is
> >> > moving, prop oil line connected with no leaks.
> >> >
> >> > Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
> >> >
> >> > Ted
> >>
> >> Ted, specifically what do you mean by "tried to cycle the prop"? Run
> >> the engine at something like 2000 rpm and pull the prop control all the
> >> way back. Leave it in that position for a while - maybe a minute? If
> >> you begin to see rpm drop, then push it back in and repeat. You need
to
> >> compress the air in the system by displacing it with oil. The air will
> >> purge itself after a few cycles. If this still doesn't work, the plug
> >> might still be in the crank.
> >>
> >> Alex Peterson
> >> RV6-A 531 hours
> >> Maple Grove, MN
> >>
> >> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | removing allen head plug in engine block |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
Guys...
Am currently dismantling my 0-360 and am having a heck of a time removing
the 4 small allen head plugs from the inside of case. According to the
rebuild manual,
these need to be removed to get a thorough cleaning of the case halves.
I've twisted
two wrenches, applied heat, and tried various penetrating lubricants but
to no avail.
Any suggestions for removing these plugs? Thanks
Dave Mader
2nd slow build 6
Message 15
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"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Ted,
two common errors are plastic plug left in prop, wrong plug arrangement in
crankshaft.
Engine RPM also needs to be up there for it to cycle, otherwise it will
sense off-speed-low at all times.
W
Time: 09:17:37 PM PST US
From: Ted Lumpkin <tlump51@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV-List: Constant Speed Prop Not Cycling
--> RV-List message posted by: Ted Lumpkin <tlump51@sbcglobal.net>
I am getting my RV-4 prepped for the first flight and did my first run-up
today
to continue with engine tests. When I tried to cycle the prop nothing
happened.
No perceptible rpm drop or change in any way. Engine runs fine otherwise.
Here's the vital statistics:
Overhauled Hartzell compact hub prop
Overhauled Woodward governor
IO-360 from Bart LaLonde plumbed for c/s prop
Run-up rpm - 1700 rpm
Oil temp - 178 degrees
The engine and prop were in storage for about 3yrs.
I've checked the basics: cable connected, governor arm is moving, prop
oil line
connected with no leaks.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
Ted
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: removing allen head plug in engine block |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
Belvoirs Light Plane Maintenance had a good article on removing these pesky
little plugs.
The method that I used that eventually worked was to heat it with a propane
torch, then drip wax into the threads, which penetrates down and acts as a
lubricant.
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
Subject: RV-List: removing allen head plug in engine block
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
>
> Guys...
> Am currently dismantling my 0-360 and am having a heck of a time removing
> the 4 small allen head plugs from the inside of case. According to the
> rebuild manual,
> these need to be removed to get a thorough cleaning of the case halves.
> I've twisted
> two wrenches, applied heat, and tried various penetrating lubricants but
> to no avail.
> Any suggestions for removing these plugs? Thanks
> Dave Mader
> 2nd slow build 6
>
>
>
Message 17
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"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
http://www.emagair.com/
very intersting new development, anybody flying this unit???
W
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: removing allen head plug in engine block |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Might try a socket type Allen wrench use an impact wrench along with heat
gun on the case. If that doesn't work, preheat in an oven to 450 then use
your impact.
One little trick is to use a hammer type impact wrench or just a rap a long
taper punch that fits inside the hex of the plug. This will loosen it.
Now it there is a hint of blue or red around the plug, someone has used
loctite. It is it red, it has to be heated to 450 for at least 5 minutes to
release it according to the Loctite manual. They claim that localized
heating can be done with a soldering gun but your case is a very large heat
sink.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
Subject: RV-List: removing allen head plug in engine block
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
>
> Guys...
> Am currently dismantling my 0-360 and am having a heck of a time removing
> the 4 small allen head plugs from the inside of case. According to the
> rebuild manual,
> these need to be removed to get a thorough cleaning of the case halves.
> I've twisted
> two wrenches, applied heat, and tried various penetrating lubricants but
> to no avail.
> Any suggestions for removing these plugs? Thanks
> Dave Mader
> 2nd slow build 6
>
>
Message 19
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|
Subject: | Scaled Composite Pilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Listers,
In the 2 hour special on the Spaceshipone flights, it was mentioned that
their chief test pilot was in a fatal accident in an amateur built
aircraft just before the first flight of Spaceshipone. Does anyone know
any particulars about the type aircraft or the accident?
Regards.
Richard Dudley
-6A ready to move to the airport
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jsd41@aol.com
Larry
I just went through the same problems that you are having. I could get the
right side light to wig wag, but the left side would just stay on and not wig
wag. The problem turned out to be the Black ground wire coming out of the unit.
I had spliced on to it with a butt splice. An election friend of mine told me
to solder that joint. I did an it has work fine ever sense. I hope this will
help you out. I took me 3 weeks of off and
on trouble shooting to get it right.
Jerry Davis
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
We had the same problem with my neighbors new O-360/CS Prop. We had to run
the engine speed up quite high to get the prop to cycle. I suppose the hub had
air which had to be worked out. Keep trying.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 22
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|
clamav-milter version 0.80
on zoot.lafn.org
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
It does look interesting, but I couldn't find a price anywhere. And, to
be "really" interesting, it needs a price. :>)
Dave
Wheeler North wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>http://www.emagair.com/
>
>very intersting new development, anybody flying this unit???
>
>W
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: E Mag Air clamav-milter version 0.80 on zoot.lafn.org |
--> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
<<It does look interesting, but I couldn't find a price anywhere. And, to
be "really" interesting, it needs a price. :>)>>
I was told, at the Copperstate E-Mag booth, that for a dual E-Mag setup
which included one with a built in back up alternator the cost would be about
$1000.00 --- not bad. They also said that they are sold, only by phone, direct
from them.
Bob Trumpfheller
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Here's the page with all the prices
http://www.emagair.com/E-MAG_product_page.htm
Message 25
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Subject: | Scaled Composite Pilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen@cox.net>
I've been told it was an aircraft of his own design.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of richard dudley
Subject: RV-List: Scaled Composite Pilot
--> RV-List message posted by: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Listers,
In the 2 hour special on the Spaceshipone flights, it was mentioned that
their chief test pilot was in a fatal accident in an amateur built
aircraft just before the first flight of Spaceshipone. Does anyone know
any particulars about the type aircraft or the accident?
Regards.
Richard Dudley
-6A ready to move to the airport
Message 26
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Subject: | Re: Scaled Composite Pilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael Schipper <mike@learningplanet.com>
He was flying a Q2, according to the following article:
http://www.grangier.fr/news/journal-2003-07-22.txt
Second article on the page.
Mike Schipper
www.my9a.com
On Oct 10, 2004, at 7:25 PM, richard dudley wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
> Listers,
>
> In the 2 hour special on the Spaceshipone flights, it was mentioned
> that
> their chief test pilot was in a fatal accident in an amateur built
> aircraft just before the first flight of Spaceshipone. Does anyone know
> any particulars about the type aircraft or the accident?
>
> Regards.
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A ready to move to the airport
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 27
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|
Subject: | Re: bring on the fuel tanks! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Brinlee" <abfbrinlee@att.net>
Evan,
what do you charge for building tanks??
Doug Brinlee okc ok
----- Original Message -----
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Subject: RV-List: bring on the fuel tanks!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> I finally got some good help in the shop and the tank building schedule is
moving fast. If any of you guys are considering having the messy part
handled by the pros, now is a good time to do it. The turn around times are
way shorter than they have ever been before. The winter building season is
starting up...I can help you move your project to the next stage.
>
> Thanks a bunch.....
>
>
> Evan Johnson (200+ sets of tanks so far)
>
> RV10 wings almost done!
> www.evansaviationproducts.com
> (530)351-1776 cell
>
>
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I spoke with Bob tonight. We exchanged some troubleshooting ideas, but he
didn't see anything obviously wrong with my setup. Troubleshooting has been
limited due to good weather...it's been too nice lately -- been flying
instead.
Thanks for the idea!!
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jsd41@aol.com [mailto:Jsd41@aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, October 10, 2004 8:51 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Hann WigWag
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jsd41@aol.com
>
> Larry
> I just went through the same problems that you are having. I
> could get the right side light to wig wag, but the left side
> would just stay on and not wig wag. The problem turned out to
> be the Black ground wire coming out of the unit.
> I had spliced on to it with a butt splice. An election friend
> of mine told me to solder that joint. I did an it has work
> fine ever sense. I hope this will help you out. I took me 3
> weeks of off and on trouble shooting to get it right.
> Jerry Davis
>
>
> ============
> Matronics Forums.
> ============
> ============
> ============
>
>
>
>
>
>
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