Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:52 AM - adel clamps for wing wiring conduit (Mickey Coggins)
2. 05:13 AM - Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit (Rick Galati)
3. 05:56 AM - Re: best vhf comm? (Donald Mei)
4. 06:17 AM - Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit (Jeff Dowling)
5. 06:29 AM - Re: engine gaskets - grease? (cgalley)
6. 06:43 AM - Gaskets (Doug Cook)
7. 06:50 AM - Oil inspection door (bertrv6@highstream.net)
8. 07:13 AM - Re: Oil inspection door (Dane Sheahen)
9. 07:56 AM - Re: engine gaskets - grease? (Larry Bowen)
10. 09:38 AM - Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
11. 09:46 AM - Re: E Mag Air (Vanremog@aol.com)
12. 10:05 AM - RV8....grounding a rear mounted battery (Gert)
13. 10:05 AM - Re: Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit (Mickey Coggins)
14. 10:58 AM - Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit (Kathleen@rv7.us)
15. 11:37 AM - Re: Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit (Rick Galati)
16. 11:48 AM - Re: engine gaskets - grease? (Stein Bruch)
17. 11:50 AM - Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit (Mickey Coggins)
18. 12:03 PM - Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit (Vincent Himsl)
19. 01:03 PM - Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit (Mickey Coggins)
20. 01:13 PM - Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit (Jim Oke)
21. 01:19 PM - Re: cowl to fuselage joint (Jim Oke)
22. 02:07 PM - Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
23. 05:08 PM - Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit (James H Nelson)
24. 06:44 PM - Re: Oil inspection door (Andy Karmy)
25. 07:04 PM - Re: [RV10] 4th Annual Coastal Georgia Fall Fly In (James E. Clark)
26. 07:04 PM - Re: RV accident at Joliet,Il (Nels Hanson)
27. 07:27 PM - Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit (steve zicree)
28. 07:50 PM - Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
29. 08:03 PM - Skymap IIIC on eBay (Travis Hamblen)
30. 08:14 PM - Internet logbook (Larry Bowen)
31. 08:58 PM - Re: Internet logbook (Scott VanArtsdalen)
32. 09:09 PM - Re: Re : My XCOM 760 order (Todd Bartrim)
33. 09:32 PM - log book software (Mitch Faatz)
34. 10:26 PM - Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit (steve zicree)
35. 11:01 PM - (steve zicree)
Message 1
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| Subject: | adel clamps for wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
I had originally decided not to put in a conduit in
my wings to run the wires, for simplicity, and since
the QB wings already have holes and snap bushings
already installed.
Now that it's time to wire, I find that the diameter
of the Van's supplied snap bushings are too small for
the strobe wires, landing light wires, and the position
lights. They have an ID of 1/4 inch (-4 snap bushings)
and I would be happy with 3/8 inch (-6 snap bushings).
I could drill out the holes and install larger snap
bushings, or install a conduit. I'd like to avoid
drilling more holes, or larger holes, since I don't
have a way to get to the ribs in the root area of
the wing. I bought the Unibit extension from Avery,
but it is too small for the Unibit that comes with
the RV kit.
An RV4 builder friend of mine said that I should
be able to find adel clamps (a.k.a. cushion clamps)
that have a 90 degree twist in the mount hole, which
would be perfect for this application, but I can't
seem to find them. Does anyone know where I might
be able to find these, or alternatively, a better
way to install a stiff plastic conduit into the
wing?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
I installed PVC conduit alongside the large lightening
holes of my 6A wings with adel clamps fastened to simple
brackets fashioned from .032 3/4"X 3/4" stock. The brackets
are attached to the ribs with 2 rivets.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>I had originally
decided not to put in a conduit inmy wings to run the wires, for simplicity,
and sincethe QB wings already have holes and snap bushingsalready installed.Now
that it's time to wire, I find that the diameterof the Van's supplied snap
bushings are too small forthe strobe wires, landing light wires, and the positionlights.
They have an ID of 1/4 inch (-4 snap bushings)and I would be happy
with 3/8 inch (-6 snap bushings).I could drill out the holes and install larger
snapbushings, or install a conduit. I'd like to avoiddrilling more holes,
or larger holes, since I don'thave a way to get to the ribs in the root area
ofthe wing. I bought the Unibit extension from Avery,but it is too small for
the Unibit that comes withthe RV kit.An RV4 builder friend of mine said that I
should be able to find adel clamps (a.k.a. cushion clamps)that have a 90 degree
twist in the mount hole, whichwould be perfect for
this
application, but I can'tseem to find them. Does anyone know where I mightbe able to find these, or alternatively, a betterway to install a stiff plastic conduit into thewing?Thanks,Mickey--Mickey Cogginshttp://www.rv8.ch/#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
---------------------------------
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Lucky,
If you can let go of the built-in intercom requirement, the SL40 does
everything you could ever think to want in a radio.
Yes, it does have a built in intercom, but don't use it. If you use the
built in intercom, you give up the ability to monitor the standby frequency.
My RV is light and simple like Vans intended. It has only 1 com and the
ability to monitor ATIS or CTAF or Tower at my destination airport, while
doing flight following is invaluable.
Just buy yourself a decent, reasonably priced intercom and be done with it.
If you want the best in a small light intercom, the PS Engineering PM1200
has their incredible IntelliVox system. It sounds great and eliminates the
need to adjust squelch durring the flight. (A constant annoyance for me.
If I set it high enough so the engine doesn't break squelch durring take
off, my pax can't get squelch to break durring cruise)
Don
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Here's a trick from the Ky rv building grounds. Take a unibit and weld it
(or have it welded) to the end of a 6 foot rod that matches the diameter of
the unibit shank. I used it on mine and it worked great. Make sure the
unibit you weld on has the correct largest diameter since you'll have to run
it through every hole.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
140 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: RV-List: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> I had originally decided not to put in a conduit in
> my wings to run the wires, for simplicity, and since
> the QB wings already have holes and snap bushings
> already installed.
>
> Now that it's time to wire, I find that the diameter
> of the Van's supplied snap bushings are too small for
> the strobe wires, landing light wires, and the position
> lights. They have an ID of 1/4 inch (-4 snap bushings)
> and I would be happy with 3/8 inch (-6 snap bushings).
>
> I could drill out the holes and install larger snap
> bushings, or install a conduit. I'd like to avoid
> drilling more holes, or larger holes, since I don't
> have a way to get to the ribs in the root area of
> the wing. I bought the Unibit extension from Avery,
> but it is too small for the Unibit that comes with
> the RV kit.
>
> An RV4 builder friend of mine said that I should
> be able to find adel clamps (a.k.a. cushion clamps)
> that have a 90 degree twist in the mount hole, which
> would be perfect for this application, but I can't
> seem to find them. Does anyone know where I might
> be able to find these, or alternatively, a better
> way to install a stiff plastic conduit into the
> wing?
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: engine gaskets - grease? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
You can use grease but there are better products to prevent leaks.
Personally I like Loctite 515 although others will use form-a-gasket. The
silicone rubber products work IF you don't apply too much. Just a thin film
of any sealant is better than having the excess squeezed into the engine,
falling off, and block oil passages.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: engine gaskets - grease?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> Since I plan not to have a vacuum system, I was about to screw down the
> plate that covers up the vacuum pump gear and noticed the gasket that
> was supplied with the plate. I recall that when I used to set the
> valves on my old VW, I always put on a new valve cover gasket and I
> always covered the new gasket with a thin film of grease first. My "VW
> Care for Idiots" manual said it would prevent oil leaks.
>
> Is it normal practice to apply some grease to gasket like this that will
> come into contact with engine oil?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Cook" <Dugcook@cox.net>
For engine gaskets, I've found Permetex Copper Spray-a-Gasket to work great. It's
a hi-temp spray on, so it goes on real this and even, so you get a great fit,
without all the over-goop of silicone.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Oil inspection door |
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
When at Oshkosh this year I saw an Rv, with to flush type of fastener
at each end of the Cowling Oil door..It looks great.
I have tried to find out the which type of fastener is, and the size.
I look on Wicks catalog, but there are so many combinations, I tried some
but they came too small..
If some one has this type of arrangement, would appreciate the information
as to type and size...I have an rv6a. Getting close to that day....
Thanks
Bert
rv6a
Do Not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Oil inspection door |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
You can get the hinges from Cessna and pay a huge price or you can simply go
your McMaster-Carr. (www.mcmaster.com) 630-834-9600. They are part number
11205A36 $7.45 each for stainless or 11205A12 $1.83 for plain steel ones .
Check the size, there is a smaller one but I am 90% sure I used the big
ones. The other part number is 11205A35 (small one)
I found I had to glass in 2 small balsawood ribs because the door will flex
and open in flight. Especially when everything gets hot.
Glen Gordon or Tom Barnes showed me this one, give them credit.
Dane Sheahen
RV8a N838RV
150 hrs of flight
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
bertrv6@highstream.net
Subject: RV-List: Oil inspection door
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
When at Oshkosh this year I saw an Rv, with to flush type of fastener
at each end of the Cowling Oil door..It looks great.
I have tried to find out the which type of fastener is, and the size.
I look on Wicks catalog, but there are so many combinations, I tried some
but they came too small..
If some one has this type of arrangement, would appreciate the
information
as to type and size...I have an rv6a. Getting close to that day....
Thanks
Bert
rv6a
Do Not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | engine gaskets - grease? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I've read and heard others says to just lube up the gasket nicely with
engine oil as you install it.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: thomas a. sargent [mailto:sarg314@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2004 1:29 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: engine gaskets - grease?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent"
> --> <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> Since I plan not to have a vacuum system, I was about to
> screw down the
> plate that covers up the vacuum pump gear and noticed the
> gasket that was supplied with the plate. I recall that when
> I used to set the valves on my old VW, I always put on a new
> valve cover gasket and I always covered the new gasket with a
> thin film of grease first. My "VW Care for Idiots" manual
> said it would prevent oil leaks.
>
> Is it normal practice to apply some grease to gasket like
> this that will come into contact with engine oil?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
> ============
> ============
> ============
> ============
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 10/16/04 8:18:01 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
shempdowling@earthlink.net writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> Here's a trick from the Ky rv building grounds. Take a unibit and weld it
> (or have it welded) to the end of a 6 foot rod that matches the diameter of
> the unibit shank. I used it on mine and it worked great. Make sure the
> unibit you weld on has the correct largest diameter since you'll have to run
>
> it through every hole.
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 140 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
If the wings are on, you'll need an 8 foot rod! I got in to this after the
wings were installed on the airplane. My trick was similar to Jeff's though.
I got some unthreaded steel rod at Home Depot and cut it to the correct
lengths to extend a Unibit from the access hole to each rib. Actually, you can
do
two ribs with the same length as I recall. To attach the Unibit to the end of
the rod, I used a 1/4 inch shaft coupling from my radio supplies. It is a
small brass bushing just under 1/2 inch diameter (measured .440) and 3/4 inch
long. It is 1/4 id with two allen head set screws. File a flat on the rod so
that the set screw will hold. The Unibit is already flatted.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying, but not today. Too windy in N. IN)
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 10/11/2004 7:18:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
RVer273sb@aol.com writes:
Listers,
Have received my e-mag and p-mag.
Have the ac plumed for MAP and wired
for the system. Will install the units when
I return from LRU next weekend.
I will post operation info after initial operation.
===================================
Anyone know how they deal with a tach sensor such as that used on the VM1000?
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs)
Message 12
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"RV-8@yahoogroups.com" <RV-8@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | RV8....grounding a rear mounted battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert.v@sbcglobal.net>
A question to those who have a rear mounted battery.
Where and how did you ground your battery, what would you do different,
if at all??
Thanks
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
How did you deal with the strange shape of the edges
of the lightening holes?
Thanks,
Mickey
>I installed PVC conduit alongside the large lightening
>holes of my 6A wings with adel clamps fastened to simple
>brackets fashioned from .032 3/4"X 3/4" stock. The brackets
>are attached to the ribs with 2 rivets.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 14
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| Subject: | adel clamps for wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kathleen@rv7.us
I cut two extra sets of holes in one wing and one the other on my QB wings.
I found a wood bit made a nice clean hole and was easily connected to
standard bit extensions from Home Depot. I ran two sets of holes the full
length of the wings and the whole process took only 10 minutes or so. I
found the Unibit method cumbersome and slow.
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: RV-List: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
I had originally decided not to put in a conduit in
my wings to run the wires, for simplicity, and since
the QB wings already have holes and snap bushings
already installed.
Now that it's time to wire, I find that the diameter
of the Van's supplied snap bushings are too small for
the strobe wires, landing light wires, and the position
lights. They have an ID of 1/4 inch (-4 snap bushings)
and I would be happy with 3/8 inch (-6 snap bushings).
I could drill out the holes and install larger snap
bushings, or install a conduit. I'd like to avoid
drilling more holes, or larger holes, since I don't
have a way to get to the ribs in the root area of
the wing. I bought the Unibit extension from Avery,
but it is too small for the Unibit that comes with
the RV kit.
An RV4 builder friend of mine said that I should
be able to find adel clamps (a.k.a. cushion clamps)
that have a 90 degree twist in the mount hole, which
would be perfect for this application, but I can't
seem to find them. Does anyone know where I might
be able to find these, or alternatively, a better
way to install a stiff plastic conduit into the
wing?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Mickey,
The press formed edges of the lightening holes are not an issue. Locate the brackets
just outside of the irregular surface and rivet the bracket to the flat
surface of the rib. The trick here is to design and fabricate the bracket with
the leg pointing towards the lightening hole sort of "extended" a bit so that
sufficient standoff will exist between the conduit and the rib with the adel
clamp attached. Fabricating the brackets is extremely fast and simple once you
understand the shape required. Probably the easiest way to visualize it is
to temporarily insert your conduit into the wing. Clamp an adel clamp around
it at a lightening hole. Decide upon a suitable standoff to prevent rubbing or
chaffing. Note how much of a leg will be required on the bracket to attach
a bolt through the adel clamp and into the bracket. Here's another thought to
help you visualize what I'm talking about. Cut off a 2-1/2" piece of 3/4X3/4"
angle. Trim 1/2" off ONE leg of the angle. Now yo
u have a
bracket. Of course you will probably want to round off the edges and remove unnecessary
material. One leg only has to have enough surface to accomodate 2 rivet
holes. It will come to you.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
Hi,
How did you deal with the strange shape of the edges
of the lightening holes?
Thanks,
Mickey
>I installed PVC conduit alongside the large lightening
>holes of my 6A wings with adel clamps fastened to simple
>brackets fashioned from .032 3/4"X 3/4" stock. The brackets
>are attached to the ribs with 2 rivets.
Message 16
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| Subject: | engine gaskets - grease? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Good Stuff but my favorite for usage all over the engine is "Tite Seal".
It's a gloppy, messy, black compound that is great for gaskets, fittings,
et.al. Found out about it years ago from the round engine guys who have
their share of oil problems. Seems to be the most popular among round
engine fixers on old planes, and has worked great for me personally. My can
of the stuff gets used by lots of people since a pint of it goes a long way.
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of cgalley
Subject: Re: RV-List: engine gaskets - grease?
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
You can use grease but there are better products to prevent leaks.
Personally I like Loctite 515 although others will use form-a-gasket. The
silicone rubber products work IF you don't apply too much. Just a thin film
of any sealant is better than having the excess squeezed into the engine,
falling off, and block oil passages.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: engine gaskets - grease?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> Since I plan not to have a vacuum system, I was about to screw down the
> plate that covers up the vacuum pump gear and noticed the gasket that
> was supplied with the plate. I recall that when I used to set the
> valves on my old VW, I always put on a new valve cover gasket and I
> always covered the new gasket with a thin film of grease first. My "VW
> Care for Idiots" manual said it would prevent oil leaks.
>
> Is it normal practice to apply some grease to gasket like this that will
> come into contact with engine oil?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | adel clamps for wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Oh, that's cool. I didn't think of using a wood bit.
I'll check to see if I have one that works with
my unibit extension. I'm trying to stop buying every
tool I see.
Thanks,
Mickey
>I cut two extra sets of holes in one wing and one the other on my QB wings.
>I found a wood bit made a nice clean hole and was easily connected to
>standard bit extensions from Home Depot. I ran two sets of holes the full
>length of the wings and the whole process took only 10 minutes or so. I
>found the Unibit method cumbersome and slow.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 18
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| Subject: | adel clamps for wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
You might want to consider foregoing the rigid conduit and clamps....
Buy the flexible plastic conduit from Van's and enlarge the rib holes to
3/4" AFTER waiting till you get the conduit to verify measurements and then
AFTER experimenting on scrap first.
Why the 3/4"? The conduit I received from Van's has two outside dimensions
approx. 13/16 and 11/16. It's the same stuff that they use in the engine
compartment of your care to protect wires, etc. The 3/4 is between the two
so that when you pull the conduit through the rib holes the slightly smaller
dimension will hold the conduit in place eliminating the need for additional
clamps or whatever's. As the conduit is pulled through several ribs, each
one holding it in place, the total effect is a conduit that isn't going
anywhere. Additionally, the conduit from Van's is flexible making it very
forgiving of even grossly misaligned holes.
So far I fail to see the advantage of using "rigid" conduit in an RV
especially when compared to the extra amount of work that comes with using
it.
I noticed that vansaircraft.com has a pdf document on wing wiring. It talks
about approved hole locations which will prove helpful if you decide to
drill extra holes.
Hope this suggestion helps,
Vince Himsl
RV8-VSB Finish
(N8432 reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: RV-List: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
I had originally decided not to put in a conduit in
my wings to run the wires, for simplicity, and since
the QB wings already have holes and snap bushings
already installed.
Now that it's time to wire, I find that the diameter
of the Van's supplied snap bushings are too small for
the strobe wires, landing light wires, and the position
lights. They have an ID of 1/4 inch (-4 snap bushings)
and I would be happy with 3/8 inch (-6 snap bushings).
I could drill out the holes and install larger snap
bushings, or install a conduit. I'd like to avoid
drilling more holes, or larger holes, since I don't
have a way to get to the ribs in the root area of
the wing. I bought the Unibit extension from Avery,
but it is too small for the Unibit that comes with
the RV kit.
An RV4 builder friend of mine said that I should
be able to find adel clamps (a.k.a. cushion clamps)
that have a 90 degree twist in the mount hole, which
would be perfect for this application, but I can't
seem to find them. Does anyone know where I might
be able to find these, or alternatively, a better
way to install a stiff plastic conduit into the
wing?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 19
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| Subject: | adel clamps for wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
I've got some of the flexible stuff, but it seems
like pushing cables through it would be more difficult
than with the rigid, smooth conduit.
Now I only have to decide if I go with more holes in
the ribs or the adel clamps.
Thanks for the info, and the pointer to the Van's PDF.
Mickey
>So far I fail to see the advantage of using "rigid" conduit in an RV
>especially when compared to the extra amount of work that comes with using
>it.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
I ended up in the same situation as the conduit I had installed during
building was too small for the wiring I wanted to run in the wings. Plus I
had both wing skins on!
I ended up re-drilling (to a larger diameter) the existing conduit holes
using unibit extensions as other have suggested. I then was able to thread a
5/8" or so thin wall PVC tube (from the aviation dept. of a local building
supply store) through the holes by reaching in through the aileron access
hole and root/tip rib lightening holes. A friend with long skinny arms might
help in this.
This turned out to be quite easy - one of those jobs that you put off as
long as possible but that turn out to be surprising simple when you finally
tackle it.
A continuous PVC tube has the advantage of ease of threading wiring through
plus it provides its own anti-abrasion protection to the wire. I was lucky
and had a unibit that just matched the tubing with a snug fit so no grommets
or anything was needed to keep it in place. I did add a few dabs of RTV (or
maybe it was proseal) to make sure it didn't slip back and forth.
Another tip. Add 2 ft or so of extra tubing at the root rib end. Drill a
suitable located hole in the fuselage skin and a row of holes through the
seat ribs. When putting the wings on for final assembly, thread the PVC tube
through the holes and the wiring can be easily fed (and protected) to a
terminal block under the seat pans. A lot easier than trying to mate
connectors in the root rib fuse gap. Parts count is down too, etc. No harder
to take the airplane apart in the long run either.
Jim Oke
RV-6A, C-GKGZ
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: RV-List: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> I had originally decided not to put in a conduit in
> my wings to run the wires, for simplicity, and since
> the QB wings already have holes and snap bushings
> already installed.
>
> Now that it's time to wire, I find that the diameter
> of the Van's supplied snap bushings are too small for
> the strobe wires, landing light wires, and the position
> lights. They have an ID of 1/4 inch (-4 snap bushings)
> and I would be happy with 3/8 inch (-6 snap bushings).
>
> I could drill out the holes and install larger snap
> bushings, or install a conduit. I'd like to avoid
> drilling more holes, or larger holes, since I don't
> have a way to get to the ribs in the root area of
> the wing. I bought the Unibit extension from Avery,
> but it is too small for the Unibit that comes with
> the RV kit.
>
> An RV4 builder friend of mine said that I should
> be able to find adel clamps (a.k.a. cushion clamps)
> that have a 90 degree twist in the mount hole, which
> would be perfect for this application, but I can't
> seem to find them. Does anyone know where I might
> be able to find these, or alternatively, a better
> way to install a stiff plastic conduit into the
> wing?
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: cowl to fuselage joint |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Jeff;
I was going to say just add some metal shims between the top fuse skin and
the firewall but it sounds like you are flying already so suspect that
opening this joint is not an attractive option.
Filler with some fibreglass reinforcement on the fuse skin look like the
best solution.
More work, but removing the top hinge from the cowl, thinning the cowl
material somewhat, then reattaching the hinge might be an option.
Suitable filler material and prep should avoid cracking on the fuse skins
for sometime.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: cowl to fuselage joint
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> Its time to figure out how Im going to make the joint between my cowl and
> fuse match up. The cowl is high in several places. Ive already drilled
> the hinge on the fuse side once and am reluctant to do this again. It
> really needs more spacers. Im thinking about adding fiberglass over the
> fuse and building it up to match the cowl but Im concerned about the
> glass/filler cracking over time. Any suggestions?
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 140 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
home depot carries a 58inch drill bit extension by Greenlee. Didn't catch the
price. In our home depot it's in the electrical tool area (multimeters, crimpers,
etc).
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke
>
> I ended up in the same situation as the conduit I had installed during
> building was too small for the wiring I wanted to run in the wings. Plus I
> had both wing skins on!
>
> I ended up re-drilling (to a larger diameter) the existing conduit holes
> using unibit extensions as other have suggested. I then was able to thread a
> 5/8" or so thin wall PVC tube (from the aviation dept. of a local building
> supply store) through the holes by reaching in through the aileron access
> hole and root/tip rib lightening holes. A friend with long skinny arms might
> help in this.
>
> This turned out to be quite easy - one of those jobs that you put off as
> long as possible but that turn out to be surprising simple when you finally
> tackle it.
>
> A continuous PVC tube has the advantage of ease of threading wiring through
> plus it provides its own anti-abrasion protection to the wire. I was lucky
> and had a unibit that just matched the tubing with a snug fit so no grommets
> or anything was needed to keep it in place. I did add a few dabs of RTV (or
> maybe it was proseal) to make sure it didn't slip back and forth.
>
> Another tip. Add 2 ft or so of extra tubing at the root rib end. Drill a
> suitable located hole in the fuselage skin and a row of holes through the
> seat ribs. When putting the wings on for final assembly, thread the PVC tube
> through the holes and the wiring can be easily fed (and protected) to a
> terminal block under the seat pans. A lot easier than trying to mate
> connectors in the root rib fuse gap. Parts count is down too, etc. No harder
> to take the airplane apart in the long run either.
>
> Jim Oke
> RV-6A, C-GKGZ
> Winnipeg, MB
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mickey Coggins"
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
> >
> > I had originally decided not to put in a conduit in
> > my wings to run the wires, for simplicity, and since
> > the QB wings already have holes and snap bushings
> > already installed.
> >
> > Now that it's time to wire, I find that the diameter
> > of the Van's supplied snap bushings are too small for
> > the strobe wires, landing light wires, and the position
> > lights. They have an ID of 1/4 inch (-4 snap bushings)
> > and I would be happy with 3/8 inch (-6 snap bushings).
> >
> > I could drill out the holes and install larger snap
> > bushings, or install a conduit. I'd like to avoid
> > drilling more holes, or larger holes, since I don't
> > have a way to get to the ribs in the root area of
> > the wing. I bought the Unibit extension from Avery,
> > but it is too small for the Unibit that comes with
> > the RV kit.
> >
> > An RV4 builder friend of mine said that I should
> > be able to find adel clamps (a.k.a. cushion clamps)
> > that have a 90 degree twist in the mount hole, which
> > would be perfect for this application, but I can't
> > seem to find them. Does anyone know where I might
> > be able to find these, or alternatively, a better
> > way to install a stiff plastic conduit into the
> > wing?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Mickey
> >
> >
> > --
> > Mickey Coggins
> > http://www.rv8.ch/
> > #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
home depot carries a 58inch drill bit extension by Greenlee. Didn't catch the price.
In our home depot it's in the electrical tool area (multimeters, crimpers,
etc).
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <WJOKE@SHAW.CA>
I ended up in the same situation as the conduit I had installed during
building was too small for the wiring I wanted to run in the wings. Plus I
had both wing skins on!
I ended up re-drilling (to a larger diameter) the existing conduit holes
using unibit extensions as other have suggested. I then was able to thread a
5/8" or so thin wall PVC tube (from the aviation dept. of a local building
supply store) through the holes by reaching in through the aileron access
hole and root/tip rib lightening holes. A friend with long skinny arms might
help in this.
This turned out to be quite easy - one of those jobs that you put off as
long as possible but that
turn out to be surprising simple when you finally
tackle it.
A continuous PVC tube has the advantage of ease of threading wiring through
plus it provides its own anti-abrasion protection to the wire. I was lucky
and had a unibit that just matched the tubing with a snug fit so no grommets
or anything was needed to keep it in place. I did add a few dabs of RTV (or
maybe it was proseal) to make sure it didn't slip back and forth.
Another tip. Add 2 ft or so of extra tubing at the root rib end. Drill a
suitable located hole in the fuselage skin and a row of holes through the
seat ribs. When putting the wings on for final assembly, thread the PVC tube
through the holes and the wiring can be easily fed (and protected) to a
terminal block under the seat pans. A lot easier than trying to mate
connectors in the root rib fuse gap. Parts count is down too, etc.
No harder
to take the airplane apart in the long run either.
Jim Oke
RV-6A, C-GKGZ
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <MICK-MATRONICS@RV8.CH>
To: <RV-LIST@MATRONICS.COM>
Subject: RV-List: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit
-- RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <MICK-MATRONICS@RV8.CH>
I had originally decided not to put in a conduit in
my wings to run the wires, for simplicity, and since
the QB wings already have holes and snap bushings
already installed.
Now that it's time to wire, I find that the diameter
of the Van's supplied snap bushings are too small for
the strobe wires, landing light wires, and the position
lights. They have an ID of 1/4 inch (-4 snap bushings) <B
R> and I would be happy with 3/8 inch (-6 snap bushings).
I could drill out the holes and install larger snap
bushings, or install a conduit. I'd like to avoid
drilling more holes, or larger holes, since I don't
have a way to get to the ribs in the root area of
the wing. I bought the Unibit extension from Avery,
but it is too small for the Unibit that comes with
the RV kit.
An RV4 builder friend of mine said that I should
be able to find adel clamps (a.k.a. cushion clamps)
that have a 90 degree twist in the mount hole, which
would be perfect for this application, but I can't
seem to find them. Does anyone know where I might
be able to find these, or alternatively, a better
way to install a stiff plastic conduit into the
wing?
&g
t;
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
iption
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
Hi Jeff,
Here is another way to get the wires to the tips. Get a piece of
underground irrigation tubing. (Its a thin wall tube.) Its black and
found at your local Lowes or Home Depot or--. By using small a plastic
"adel" style clamp that is pop riveted to each rib (that you can reach)
with a small washer behind the pop rivet and then putting a tie wrap
through the small opening in the plastic clamp, you have the required 90
degree change of direction. The bigger tie wrap goes around the black
tubing. By using the swivel head pop riveter, you can get fairly deep
into the quick built wing to support the tubing. Its a way we are
installing wiring in the few QB RV's we have put together here in Tampa.
This idea comes from "Flight Crafters of Tampa Fl."
Jim Nelson
N599RV (reserved)
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oil inspection door |
--> RV-List message posted by: Andy Karmy <andy@karmy.com>
Here are pictures of how I solved this problem...
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/fuselage/Cowl/index.htm
- Andy Karmy
andy@karmy.com
On Oct 16, 2004, at 6:50 AM, bertrv6@highstream.net wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
> Hi:
>
> When at Oshkosh this year I saw an Rv, with to flush type of
> fastener
> at each end of the Cowling Oil door..It looks great.
>
> I have tried to find out the which type of fastener is, and the
> size.
> I look on Wicks catalog, but there are so many combinations, I tried
> some
> but they came too small..
>
> If some one has this type of arrangement, would appreciate the
> information
> as to type and size...I have an rv6a. Getting close to that day....
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Bert
> rv6a
>
>
> Do Not archive
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | [RV10] 4th Annual Coastal Georgia Fall Fly In |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Good food
Good people
Good flying
Good times had by all.
The LOT of wind and a LOT of other fly-ins made for a little less turnout
than last year but this is such a nice place to visit!
And it was great to see NOMAD (he lives!) and get in some formation
practice.
Thanks Dick, Vicki and crew for another nice gathering.
James
{SNIP}
> From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
> > Greetings:
> >
> > Mark your flying schedule for Saturday October 16. That's the date for
the
> > 4th annual Coastal Georgia Fall Fly In.
> >
> > Place: Eagle Neck Airpark 1GA0 located on the Georgia coastline half
way between Savannah and St. Simons Island.
> >
> > Barbeque is served around noon. Eagle Neck is home to 3 completed RVs
and 3 more under construction including a 10. Any type aircraft welcome.
Make a weekend of it and tour Savannah, book some great off shore fishing or
tidal marsh canoeing.
> >
> > Please RSVP to the sender for more information, airport briefing etc.
> >
> > Dick Sipp
> > RV4 250DS
> > RV10 110DV #65
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV accident at Joliet,Il |
--> RV-List message posted by: Nels Hanson <pa201950@yahoo.com>
I landed at JOT Thursday around 2PM in my RV-6 and
left there at 2:30PM. The weather at that time was
around 2,500 OC and clear below the cloud deck. The
weather deteriorated as the evening wore on. I would
expect anyone taking off around 8PM from JOT Thursday
evening would have been on an IFR flight
plan,especially if they were enroute to somewhere in
Wisconsin. It certainly was not a night to be out
flying VFR. Of course,I feel badly for the pilot and
his family. I have not read anywhere that he was on an
IFR flight plan. Does anyone know or heard if he was.
By the way,he would have been using runway "30" to
take off. There really is not much of a place to go at
JOT if you use 30 and lose an engine.
--- Andy Karmy <andy@karmy.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Andy Karmy
> <andy@karmy.com>
>
> Here are pictures of how I solved this problem...
>
>
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/fuselage/Cowl/index.htm
>
> - Andy Karmy
> andy@karmy.com
>
> On Oct 16, 2004, at 6:50 AM, bertrv6@highstream.net
> wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by:
> bertrv6@highstream.net
> >
> >
> > Hi:
> >
> > When at Oshkosh this year I saw an Rv, with to
> flush type of
> > fastener
> > at each end of the Cowling Oil door..It looks
> great.
> >
> > I have tried to find out the which type of
> fastener is, and the
> > size.
> > I look on Wicks catalog, but there are so many
> combinations, I tried
> > some
> > but they came too small..
> >
> > If some one has this type of arrangement,
> would appreciate the
> > information
> > as to type and size...I have an rv6a. Getting
> close to that day....
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> > Bert
> > rv6a
> >
> >
> > Do Not archive
> >
> >
> > _-
> >
>
=======================================================================
>
> > _-
> >
>
=======================================================================
>
> > _-
> >
>
=======================================================================
>
> > _-
> >
>
=======================================================================
>
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
I think the idea with that corrugated stuff is to thread some mason string
or similar stuff through it BEFORE installation. Then you can tie wires to
the string and PULL them through when needed, rather than push.
Steve Zicree
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: RE: RV-List: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> I've got some of the flexible stuff, but it seems
> like pushing cables through it would be more difficult
> than with the rigid, smooth conduit.
>
> Now I only have to decide if I go with more holes in
> the ribs or the adel clamps.
>
> Thanks for the info, and the pointer to the Van's PDF.
>
> Mickey
>
> >So far I fail to see the advantage of using "rigid" conduit in an RV
> >especially when compared to the extra amount of work that comes with
using
> >it.
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
So far I fail to see the advantage of using "rigid" conduit in an RV
especially when compared to the extra amount of work that comes with using
it.
>>>>>>>>>
Rigid conduit is brain-dead simple (want proof?- I did it!) Quick story:
BIG pile of left wing parts ready for priming- primer already in the gun. OH
&$#@?!*#%
! I forgot the conduit holes! I positioned a main rib on a chunk of
2x10 and nailed several pieces of scrap window or chair rail molding
(moulding?!) around it to hold it in postion. I clamped this "jig" to the table
of my
drill press with a unibit positioned about 2" aft of the spar near the top
skin, then punched a hole sized for 5/8" CPVC water pipe. Yanked the first one
out, slapped in the next and repeated as necc'y assembly-line style. Took all
of 20 minutes to make the jig, drill and debur, and the priming session went
just fine. After wing ass'y, the CPVC just slid right through the wing, all
holes like they were line-bored. Wiring for strobes, Navaid, landing and pos
lights easily worked through from the root end after the wings installed, plus
LOTS of room left for antenna stuff if req'd. Couldn't be easier- I actually
even had time to stop and take a foto of this jig- ask off-list if
interested............
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
Message 29
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| Subject: | Skymap IIIC on eBay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
I just put my Skymap IIIC on eBay. I put it on and it sold in 4 hours, but
the buyer backed out because of =93financial problems=94 the next day, so it is
back on eBay. I would prefer to sell it to a brother RV builder, so check
out the auction and you can always e-mail me with any questions. If you
don=92t like eBay then just e-mail me and I can send you all the details by
e-mail and we can work out a deal. This is a GREAT unit in EXCELLENT
condition and I am offering MANY extras with it that others are not
offering. Below is the link, sorry if you see this on a bunch of the RV
related sites, I am trying to get a good deal to a fellow RVer, and I swear
I=92ll never post anything for sale again!
Auction link:
HYPERLINK
"http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item2495181049"ht
tp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item2495181049
If the link doesn=92t work then look up item # 2495181049
Travis
RV-6A @ VGT
RV-7A QB (in garage)
---
Message 30
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| Subject: | Internet logbook |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Anyone else using an internet log book like http://logshare.com or
http://aeroplanner.com ? Which is the best? I like logshare because I can
add a custom column for tailwheel.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 31
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| Subject: | Internet logbook |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Aeroplanner's logbook has some quirks that just drive me nuts. Like
when I select on of my predefined airplanes, the current log entry gets
pushed down to the bottom of my browser window. If logshare is free I
may have to check it out.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV
4-ever!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RV-List: Internet logbook
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Anyone else using an internet log book like http://logshare.com or
http://aeroplanner.com ? Which is the best? I like logshare because I
can
add a custom column for tailwheel.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
==
==
==
==
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re : My XCOM 760 order |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
I just received my XCOM today and first impressions are good. It looks
well
made but I won't have time for at least another week to take it to install
in the airplane. I'll report on it when I can. I have to agree that it is
poor business to fail to communicate with customers.
Michael had responded promptly to previous e-mails in the year before
release of the radio. I originally ordered it through Aircraft Spruce, but
when they finally had stock, they phoned me to say that due to the rise in
the Aussie dollar the price was increased, however the increase was way out
of line with the current exchange rates so I cancelled my order and ordered
instead directly from XCOM. I received a confirmation email the next day
(good business practice) then nothing else for months. I just assumed a
backlog of orders and I was too busy to really need it anyways. Then 2 weeks
ago Visa phoned me to say there was large charge from overseas at 2am
pacific time and if I was expecting it. When they said it was from XCOM, I
hesitated due to the lack of correspondence from them, and all the negative
email on the RV list, but decided to take the chance. The next day I emailed
Michael to ask for shipping confirmation, tracking #, etc, but have heard
nothing at all from him. Fortunately it arrived this week and appears to be
a good product.
I would suggest that Michael may be better off in the shop and let someone
else run the storefront. I can appreciate that it is sometimes not much fun
to be answering endless emails from people all asking the same thing,
however it must be done and if his time and skill is more valuable in the
shop then he needs to hire someone to take care of it. The possible lost
sales from all the negative comments on the list would have covered a few
months of salary.
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
Message 33
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| Subject: | log book software |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mitch Faatz" <mitchf@skybound.com>
I looked at most of them out there and decided to buy CaptainsLog 2000 from Juland: http://www.juland.com/
It's pretty customizable and you can run any kind of reports you want (i.e. "all
tailwheel hours in the last 6 months", etc). Download it from their site, it's
29.95 if you like it. It's got a few quirks like any of them, but it does
what I want.
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit Forever Auburn, CA
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
I think the original question was regarding installing conduit in a finished
wing.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: adel clamps for wing wiring conduit
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> So far I fail to see the advantage of using "rigid" conduit in an RV
> especially when compared to the extra amount of work that comes with using
> it.
> >>>>>>>>>
>
> Rigid conduit is brain-dead simple (want proof?- I did it!) Quick story:
> BIG pile of left wing parts ready for priming- primer already in the gun.
OH
> &$#@?!*#%
> ! I forgot the conduit holes! I positioned a main rib on a chunk of
> 2x10 and nailed several pieces of scrap window or chair rail molding
> (moulding?!) around it to hold it in postion. I clamped this "jig" to the
table of my
> drill press with a unibit positioned about 2" aft of the spar near the
top
> skin, then punched a hole sized for 5/8" CPVC water pipe. Yanked the
first one
> out, slapped in the next and repeated as necc'y assembly-line style. Took
all
> of 20 minutes to make the jig, drill and debur, and the priming session
went
> just fine. After wing ass'y, the CPVC just slid right through the wing,
all
> holes like they were line-bored. Wiring for strobes, Navaid, landing and
pos
> lights easily worked through from the root end after the wings installed,
plus
> LOTS of room left for antenna stuff if req'd. Couldn't be easier- I
actually
> even had time to stop and take a foto of this jig- ask off-list if
> interested............
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips
>
>
Message 35
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1.16 MISSING_SUBJECT Missing Subject: header
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
I know this has been hashed out repeatedly in years past, but I'm hoping to get
some recent data on the old hinge vs. camlock vs. screw vs. bubblegum cowl attach
debate. I'm pretty convinced that the aluminum hinges will eventually break
so I'm wondering what kind of success people have had with stainless steel
hinges. Also, how well do the hinge-to-cowl rivets hold up? paint cracking around
rivets? My plane is a 4 and I've read that they seem to hang in a little better
since the cowl is somewhat more compact. I know I'm going to get lots of
different opinions on this but I'm simply trying to find a way that allows me
to build it only once. Thanks in advance for your advice and experience on this
one.
Steve Zicree
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