Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:31 AM - Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim (Scott Jackson)
2. 05:41 AM - Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim (RV_8 Pilot)
3. 06:26 AM - Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim (Phil)
4. 06:26 AM - Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim (Scott Bilinski)
5. 06:33 AM - trim tab (Wheeler North)
6. 06:46 AM - Dynon (Wheeler North)
7. 06:52 AM - Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim (Gary Zilik)
8. 08:50 AM - Heading -was D-10 review (Bluecavu@aol.com)
9. 08:58 AM - Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim (Dennis Persyk)
10. 09:08 AM - Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite? (Bordelon, Greg)
11. 09:19 AM - Re: Innovative Intake (Bordelon, Greg)
12. 09:45 AM - Re: Fuel Tanks (Evan and Megan Johnson)
13. 10:09 AM - Re: Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite? (Skylor Piper)
14. 10:10 AM - Potential New Builder (Darrell A. Clay)
15. 10:52 AM - Re: Vacuum Gauges (EMAproducts@aol.com)
16. 11:09 AM - Re: Potential New Builder (Bobby Hester)
17. 11:45 AM - Re: Heading -was D-10 review (steve zicree)
18. 11:50 AM - Re: Heading -was D-10 review (steve zicree)
19. 12:31 PM - Re: Heading -was D-10 review (Larry Pardue)
20. 12:53 PM - Re: Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite? (Charles Rowbotham)
21. 12:56 PM - Grand Rapids Horizon 1 (Paul Brown)
22. 01:28 PM - Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim (Tony Marshall)
23. 01:33 PM - motor mount paint (steve zicree)
24. 01:51 PM - Re: Heading -was D-10 review (Terry Watson)
25. 01:51 PM - Re: Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite? (Bordelon, Greg)
26. 02:18 PM - Re: motor mount paint (Alex Peterson)
27. 02:23 PM - Engine/prop performance figs. (Martin Hone)
28. 02:25 PM - Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim (steve zicree)
29. 03:04 PM - Re: Engine/prop performance figs. (John Furey)
30. 03:13 PM - Re: Heading -was D-10 review (Scott Jackson)
31. 03:19 PM - Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim (Sam Buchanan)
32. 03:31 PM - Re: Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite? (James E. Clark)
33. 03:33 PM - Re: Control Vision EXP BUS (Kevin Horton)
34. 03:33 PM - Re: Innovative Intake (Kevin Horton)
35. 03:33 PM - Re: Re: FADEC (Kevin Horton)
36. 04:13 PM - Re: Potential New Builder (RGray67968@aol.com)
37. 04:32 PM - Re: Potential New Builder (John Furey)
38. 08:13 PM - Re: Innovative Intake (Jeff Bertsch)
39. 08:20 PM - Re: Innovative Intake (Jeff Bertsch)
40. 10:48 PM - Re: Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite? (Jeff Point)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
My first concern would be that any slop in a flight control that isn't
supposed to be there may lead to flutter.
Scott in VAncouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
Subject: RV-List: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
>
> while inspecting my rv6 today, a friend pointed out what seems to be
> excessive free play in my elevator trim ie. grabbing the tab itself, there
> seems to be excessive up and down movement in the tab, perhaps 1/4 inch up
> and the same down....it just seems loose...in the cable. the movement
> seems to be in the cable itself, but is so light that it would seem to be
> somewhere near the rear end of the plane. the trim itself seems fine in
> flight.
>
> should i be worried about this? is there an adjustment in the cable
> itself somewhere. as i said, the movement is very light and would seem,
> given the length of the cable, to be in the rear of the plane.
>
> ideas appreciated.
>
> tony marshall
> artdeco rv6
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Ditto - fix it! Looseness in the system can get you into the
flutter-possible condition about as well as improper mass or aerodynamic
instability.
I have about 1/16" total deflection in my electric system. 1/2" total
deflection and I'd seriously consider grounding the plane.
just my 2 cents
Bryan
>My first concern would be that any slop in a flight control that isn't
>supposed to be there may lead to flutter.
>Scott in VAncouver
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
> >
> > while inspecting my rv6 today, a friend pointed out what seems to be
> > excessive free play in my elevator trim ie. grabbing the tab itself,
>there
> > seems to be excessive up and down movement in the tab, perhaps 1/4 inch
>up
> > and the same down....it just seems loose...in the cable. the movement
> > seems to be in the cable itself, but is so light that it would seem to
>be
> > somewhere near the rear end of the plane. the trim itself seems fine in
> > flight.
> >
> > should i be worried about this? is there an adjustment in the cable
> > itself somewhere. as i said, the movement is very light and would seem,
> > given the length of the cable, to be in the rear of the plane.
> >
> > ideas appreciated.
> >
> > tony marshall
> > artdeco rv6
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil" <phatphill@comcast.net>
The slop is caused by the cable. Mine has been flying like that for 10 years
with no ill effects.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tony Marshall
Subject: RV-List: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
while inspecting my rv6 today, a friend pointed out what seems to be
excessive free play in my elevator trim ie. grabbing the tab itself, there
seems to be excessive up and down movement in the tab, perhaps 1/4 inch up
and the same down....it just seems loose...in the cable. the movement seems
to be in the cable itself, but is so light that it would seem to be
somewhere near the rear end of the plane. the trim itself seems fine in
flight.
should i be worried about this? is there an adjustment in the cable itself
somewhere. as i said, the movement is very light and would seem, given the
length of the cable, to be in the rear of the plane.
ideas appreciated.
tony marshall
artdeco rv6
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Something as potentially serious as this you should call the factory!!!
I have also noticed on my trim (8a) that the harder you push the more it
moves so you can make it move a lot if you want. At the trailing edge I
have about +- 1/16 movement. If I lean on it +- 1/8. This plane only has
about 200 hours on it.
At 07:39 AM 10/22/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
>Ditto - fix it! Looseness in the system can get you into the
>flutter-possible condition about as well as improper mass or aerodynamic
>instability.
>
>I have about 1/16" total deflection in my electric system. 1/2" total
>deflection and I'd seriously consider grounding the plane.
>
>just my 2 cents
>
>Bryan
>
> >My first concern would be that any slop in a flight control that isn't
> >supposed to be there may lead to flutter.
> >Scott in VAncouver
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
> > >
> > > while inspecting my rv6 today, a friend pointed out what seems to be
> > > excessive free play in my elevator trim ie. grabbing the tab itself,
> >there
> > > seems to be excessive up and down movement in the tab, perhaps 1/4 inch
> >up
> > > and the same down....it just seems loose...in the cable. the movement
> > > seems to be in the cable itself, but is so light that it would seem to
> >be
> > > somewhere near the rear end of the plane. the trim itself seems fine in
> > > flight.
> > >
> > > should i be worried about this? is there an adjustment in the cable
> > > itself somewhere. as i said, the movement is very light and would seem,
> > > given the length of the cable, to be in the rear of the plane.
> > >
> > > ideas appreciated.
> > >
> > > tony marshall
> > > artdeco rv6
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
the play comes from the flexible space in the cable as it does a 180 back to
the panel.
I have a spring buried in the root of the elevator to bias the flexibility
out of it.
If you are using elec trim there should be very little play.
W
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
To each his/her own
One of the best features of the Dynon is the ability to do things like
upgrade the software, and calibrate things. It allows one the opportunity to
play with it both in the air and on the ground.
If you are not into doing this kind of thing then why are you building an
airplane, or buying an experimental?
My only suggestion on this would be for Dynon to use a front installed USB
port rather than the rear serial port, particularly since most next gen
laptops/tablets don't use serial ports anymore...
RE G meter, The best use of audio would be a varible tone, with a slight gap
as it travels through the integer value. Then one would just pull to a
certain tone until the horzion comes back around. Although it is my plan to
upgrade to a 10A, it is some work, and I haven't had enough reason to do
this. If they were to get that feature working I would order it right now.
I too have found the TC to be too sensitive, but then so was the Navaid. And
dampening it probably would help as my 6 tends to waggle quickly in rough
air. This might be a feature they could add, ie dampening adjustability for
the TC.
W
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@excelgeo.com>
The play is the result of the inner cable being smaller in diameter that
the sheath surrounding the cable. Imagine the outer sheath being 1" in
diameter and the cable only 1/8" diameter. (big exaggeration here) When
the cable assembly is bent in a 90 degree arc the inner 1/8" cable is on
the inside of the arc when stretched tight. Now push on the end of the
cable and it moves to the outside of the arc. This is the play we feel
at the end of the cable, or trim tab. If the cable could be installed
perfectly straight there would be no play. Each and every bend in the
installed cable add play and also shortens the cables effective throw.
How do you fix this. Pre load on the cable will keep help to eliminate
the end play. I installed a spring between the dust boot on the end of
the cable and the jam nut on the clevis. From memory the spring is about
3" long in it's relaxed state and 3/8" outside diameter. The inside
diameter is just slightly larger than the cable. When the trim tab is
full down (nose up trim) the spring is almost fully compressed. When in
full up position (nose down) the spring is compressed about 1/2 ". This
keeps tension on the cable throughout its throw and removes any end
play, or free play in the trim tab.
The reason I did this was that when aft loaded my trim in cruise was
basically neutral with no loading on the tab from the on rushing air.
Trimming the plane was tough with this aft load and play in the tab. The
spring fixed this. There is also negligible free play in the tab now.
Gary
Tony Marshall wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
>
> while inspecting my rv6 today, a friend pointed out what seems to be excessive
free play in my elevator trim ie. grabbing the tab itself, there seems to be
excessive up and down movement in the tab, perhaps 1/4 inch up and the same down....it
just seems loose...in the cable. the movement seems to be in the cable
itself, but is so light that it would seem to be somewhere near the rear end
of the plane. the trim itself seems fine in flight.
>
> should i be worried about this? is there an adjustment in the cable itself somewhere.
as i said, the movement is very light and would seem, given the length
of the cable, to be in the rear of the plane.
>
> ideas appreciated.
>
> tony marshall
> artdeco rv6
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Heading -was D-10 review |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bluecavu@aol.com
>> When ATC tells me to fly heading 180, I'm sure they mean to fly due south,
> not point the spinner due south. If I'm missing something (and it's VERY
> possible) please let me know.
>
WRONG.
>They mean point the spinner due south (magnetic).=A0 That is the meaning of
heading.
Absolutely.
ATC takes the wind into account. When they say to fly a 'heading' they mean=20a
*heading* NOT a track. In fact you can tick 'em off by attempting to correct
for wind -when they're vectoring you that's their job.
Scott
N4ZW
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Persyk" <dpersyk@worldnet.att.net>
Hi Tony,
Play in the trim tab is undesirable, probably potentially dangerous. The
tab is not balanced and thus susceptible to flutter.
Dennis Persyk N9DP 6A sold
6A web page http://home.att.net/~dpersyk/rv6a.htm
Message 10
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| Subject: | Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
Since no one seems to be flying a Blue Mountain G3 Lite, I thought I ask
"What else is out there as an electronic DG or HSI replacement"?
I wish to replace my vacuum DG with something electronic but don't want
to spend $10K for a Sandel or King KI-825.
Any ideas??
Thanks - Greg
Message 11
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| Subject: | Innovative Intake |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
Nice bird there Jeff....
Idea for you. Remove the elbow to convert your forward facing injector
to an updraft injector. Then install the Van's filtered air box assembly
and graft on the standard Van's cowl scooper upper which seems to work
well for everyone.
Remember....a little fiberglass work is equal to a lot of fiberglass
work!
Greg ;)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Bertsch
Subject: RV-List: Innovative Intake
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
The ram air intake on our RV4 works very well, however, I believe that
it is way too large -- 5 inch diameter opening, 7 inch outside
diameter. The drag reduction penalty is too large for the gain in
manifold pressure. So I would like to redesign the intake.
It has an Airflow Performance fuel injection with a forward facing ram
intake. I like the Van's design that has an intake filter in the
baffling just forward of the #4 cylinder, but after close inspection, I
don't believe there is enough room in our tightly cowled RV4 to do that.
There is only about 3 inches of baffling available (compared to about 5
- 6 inches in the RV8), and the cowling cheek rakes back at a steep
angle, leaving no room for an airbox or even a simple duct.
I don't believe the standard lower scoop and airbox will work with this
Airflow Performance intake.
So what do you suggest? Does anyone have any innovative intake designs
for this configuration - RV-4, Airflow Performance, very tight cowl.
Here is a link to some pictures of the cowling and our RV-4. Note that
the link is longer than one line so may need to cut and past.
http://www.cartogra.com/servlet/com.hp.HPGuestLogin?username=mach25&pass
word=83485262
Thanks for your expertise
Jeff Bertsch
www.lonestarsquadron.com
---------------------------------
==
==
==
==
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
For those who followed this thread and are interested, the part number for
the RV 10 fuel tank flange is VA-141 plus the finger strainer. I will
forward pictures to anybody who requests them. Off to the proseal barn!
Evan Johnson
(530)351-1776
www.evansaviationproducts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tanks
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> Neal, you need that inspection hole to inspect the AN fittings on the fuel
> pick up. Those guys can (and do) loosen up on occasion. However, what you
> can do is install the pick up fitting for the RV 10. It is a machined
> aluminum deal, a lot like the quick drain flange, that mounts in the lower
> corner of the inboard rib (on the inside of the tank). Then you just
thread
> a screened pick up right into it. Its pretty neat and you dont have to cut
> the inspection cover....The RV10 does not have an inspection cover at all.
> One other comment, you will hate trying to cut an inspection hole in at a
> later date if it becomes necessary. Just think big fly-cutter on an
already
> finished tank :( I will post the part numbers for the pick up bits for
the
> 10 when I get a chance to look at the plans.
>
> Cheers...Evan
> RV 10 wings
> (530)351-1776
> www.evansaviationproducts.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "George Neal E Capt AU/PC" <Neal.George@maxwell.af.mil>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel Tanks
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC
> <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
> >
> > Listers -
> >
> > Given that I have Van's capacitance fuel level senders and no flop
tubes,
> is
> > there any reason to put a 6-inch hole in a perfectly good, solid inboard
> > rib?
> >
> > It's not that I'm opposed to making the access panel, I just don't see
the
> > point.
> >
> > Future access seems a specious argument - if I need inside at some
future
> > time for some as-yet undefined reason, I can cut the hole when it's
> needed,
> > rather than doing it now just because the plans say to...
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Neal
> > RV-7 N8ZG
> > (starting tanks)
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> >
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
The BMA G3 Light is a brand new unit, and it replaced
the original EFIS Light. I suspect no one is flyinig
the new G3 Light yet, but there are several RV's with
the older EFIS Light units installed.
--- "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg"
> <gbordelon@hess.com>
>
> Since no one seems to be flying a Blue Mountain G3
> Lite, I thought I ask
> "What else is out there as an electronic DG or HSI
> replacement"?
>
> I wish to replace my vacuum DG with something
> electronic but don't want
> to spend $10K for a Sandel or King KI-825.
>
> Any ideas??
>
> Thanks - Greg
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
_______________________________
Declare Yourself - Register online to vote today!
http://vote.yahoo.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Potential New Builder |
0.00 FORGED_RCVD_HELO Received": rv-list@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darrell A. Clay" <dclay@walterhav.com>
Hi All,
Thinking about taking the building plunge on a -9A. Any builders (model
not important) out there in Northeast Ohio that would let me take a look
at their project? I'm willing to trade a bit of sweat equity bucking
and shooting rivets for the learning experience...
Blue skies,
Darrell Clay
Cleveland, OH
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Gauges |
Misspelled@matronics.com, medication@matronics.com, name@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: EMAproducts@aol.com
Gentlemen,
I'm not saying some aren't having problems, but suggesting there is normally
a reason for these problems. I am sure you all are not having your vacuum
gauges overhauled at the same facility, but in well over 10,000 hours of light
aircraft flying I have never had a failure of vacuum instrument and several
thousand of this was in "hard" IFR weather in light twins. (Vacuum was all we
had during the twin flying~~)
I currently own a 1965 Cherokee 180 with over 2000 hours, Instruments were
upgraded prior to my purchasing the aircraft in '87. I have had no problem
with the instruments, however I religiously change the vacuum filter yearly. I
know some builders that install the filter when building (fiberglass and metal
aircraft) and then go fly several years later, the filter and instruments
have been sitting there for several years. If your vacuum gauge is showing the
correct vacuum, and instrument doesn't operate right, something needs
overhauled, how long did the instrument sit in the box prior to being installed??
Have
you checked your gauge for accuracy?
Again not pointing fingers, just some possibilities of cause.
I think you need to insure your filters are clean, many many overlook this
very important part of the vacuum system.
I have had 3 alternator failures during this time of owning the plane, one on
my wife's first flight actual IFR X/Cin light airplane. Thankfully the old
vacuum gauges kept working :-) I can fly without the electric T&B :-)
I agree 100% with the redundancy of IFR instruments part electronic, part
vacuum. Murphy does still live.
Elbie Mendenhall
EM Aviation
EAA 38308
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Potential New Builder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Darrell A. Clay" <dclay@walterhav.com>
> To: "<rv-list@matronics.com>
> 0.00 FORGED_RCVD_HELO Received": rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 13:10 (CDT)
> Subject: RV-List: Potential New Builder
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darrell A. Clay" <dclay@walterhav.com>
>
> Hi All,
>
> Thinking about taking the building plunge on a -9A. Any builders (model
> not important) out there in Northeast Ohio that would let me take a look
> at their project? I'm willing to trade a bit of sweat equity bucking
> and shooting rivets for the learning experience...
>
> Blue skies,
>
> Darrell Clay
> Cleveland, OH
>
There are all kinds of RV Flyers up there go here and join this group
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/
They have a members list with addresses and contact info.
They even have a map showing where everyone is located, I think it is in the file
section.
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Heading -was D-10 review |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Just out of curiosity, how does ATC know what the wind is at my position? I
would assume that they would need to know my initial heading, note my track,
and then deduce the wind.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bluecavu@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Heading -was D-10 review
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bluecavu@aol.com
>
> >> When ATC tells me to fly heading 180, I'm sure they mean to fly due
south,
> > not point the spinner due south. If I'm missing something (and it's VERY
> > possible) please let me know.
> >
>
> WRONG.
>
> >They mean point the spinner due south (magnetic).=A0 That is the meaning
of
> heading.
>
> Absolutely.
>
> ATC takes the wind into account. When they say to fly a 'heading' they
mean=20a
> *heading* NOT a track. In fact you can tick 'em off by attempting to
correct
> for wind -when they're vectoring you that's their job.
>
> Scott
> N4ZW
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Heading -was D-10 review |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Just out of curiosity, how does ATC know what the wind is at my position? I
would assume that they would need to know my initial heading, note my track,
and then deduce the wind.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <Bluecavu@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Heading -was D-10 review
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bluecavu@aol.com
>
> >> When ATC tells me to fly heading 180, I'm sure they mean to fly due
south,
> > not point the spinner due south. If I'm missing something (and it's VERY
> > possible) please let me know.
> >
>
> WRONG.
>
> >They mean point the spinner due south (magnetic).=A0 That is the meaning
of
> heading.
>
> Absolutely.
>
> ATC takes the wind into account. When they say to fly a 'heading' they
mean=20a
> *heading* NOT a track. In fact you can tick 'em off by attempting to
correct
> for wind -when they're vectoring you that's their job.
>
> Scott
> N4ZW
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Heading -was D-10 review |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
On 10/22/04 12:45 PM, "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
>
> Just out of curiosity, how does ATC know what the wind is at my position? I
> would assume that they would need to know my initial heading, note my track,
> and then deduce the wind.
>
> do not archive
>
Mainly by giving vectors and seeing what happens. After the first few of
the day, they will have a good idea. I've heard controllers who just got on
shift remark that they don't "have" the wind yet, when they had to correct
vectors.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Greg,
Are you talking VFR or IFR? Both intially and down the road?
Chuck
>From: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite?
>Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 11:07:52 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
>
>Since no one seems to be flying a Blue Mountain G3 Lite, I thought I ask
>"What else is out there as an electronic DG or HSI replacement"?
>
>I wish to replace my vacuum DG with something electronic but don't want
>to spend $10K for a Sandel or King KI-825.
>
>Any ideas??
>
>Thanks - Greg
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Grand Rapids Horizon 1 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Brown" <nightmare@adelphia.net>
Is there anyone out there who is using the GR Horizon 1 EFIS? Installed and flying?
I noticed on their website that they mention that there are "few minor peoblems"
with the unit. Has anyone had any probelms with the unit?
Paul
Message 22
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| Subject: | Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
Thanks for all of the responses to my query. I will probably go the route of inserting
a spring between the cable sheath and the clevis to tighten things up.
Vans support indicated that most manual trims have this play, it is inherent
in the cable system, and they have never experienced or heard of a related problem.
They get questions about it from time to time.
The upshot of all of this is, if it bothers you, to tighten it up to extent possible
with a spring, and not to worry about it.
Tony Marshall
ArtDeco RV6
www.lambros.com
P.O. Box 906
Polson, MT 59860
800-432-6828 Office
406-249-0835 Cell
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | motor mount paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Listers,
I recieved my finishing kit a few days ago and was a little surprised that the
engine mount wasn't powder coated. Has this always been the case?
Steve Zicree
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Heading -was D-10 review |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Maybe they ask a guy flying with a Blue Mountain EFIS/one. It reads the air
data airspeed and magnetometer (compass heading) and compares those to the
GPS ground track and groundspeed and comes up with wind speed and direction
and displays it on the screen with an arrow and numbers.
Terry
RV-8A wiring
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Just out of curiosity, how does ATC know what the wind is at my position? I
would assume that they would need to know my initial heading, note my track,
and then deduce the wind.
do not archive
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
Good question Chuck.
I want to use it IFR and VFR, today and tomorrow.
I want to pull my DG out and throw it on the hangar floor.... and put
something electronic in its place, and not an "electric DG" either.
I already have an indicator for my Garmin 430....so I don't have to have
an HSI function in the DG but would use it if it were there. Anything
else is a freebie since I already have all the other necessary IFR
flight instruments installed.
I saw the BMA G3 Lite (in HSI mode) and wondered if I could use it in
place of my DG. I wonder how it would respond in IFR flight. Then I
wondered what else might be out there that I had not already considered.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles
Rowbotham
Subject: RE: RV-List: Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
--> <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Greg,
Are you talking VFR or IFR? Both intially and down the road?
Chuck
>From: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite?
>Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 11:07:52 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
>
>Since no one seems to be flying a Blue Mountain G3 Lite, I thought I
>ask "What else is out there as an electronic DG or HSI replacement"?
>
>I wish to replace my vacuum DG with something electronic but don't want
>to spend $10K for a Sandel or King KI-825.
>
>Any ideas??
>
>Thanks - Greg
==
==
==
==
Message 26
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| Subject: | motor mount paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> Listers,
>
> I recieved my finishing kit a few days ago and was a little
> surprised that the engine mount wasn't powder coated. Has
> this always been the case?
>
> Steve Zicree
>
Consider yourself lucky. Obviously, there is a lot of disagreement over
this, but I believe the evidence is stacked against powder coating being
a good corrosion inhibitor on things like motor mounts. Look at
aluminum rims on automobiles if you want to see the weakness of powder
coating. One little crack from damage and the corrosion will cruise
underneath the powder coating. Treat the steel properly, use an epoxy
primer and some good paint over the top.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 545 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Engine/prop performance figs. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
Hi guys,
I spent a good few hours researching the archives on prop/engine performance
figures yesterday, and found a lot of conflicting evidence, so I thought I
should establish my own base line before fine tuning the pitch on my
Sensenich. FWIW, here is what I found.....
Firstly, I took Ed Zercher's advice and checked the accuracy of my
rev-counter ( electric UMA) - this is very important. I borrowed a digital,
hand-held prop tach from the local warbird maintenance outfit at no charge.
So now I know exactly how much rpm my O-320 D1A powered RV-6 is pulling
during a full-power static run-up and at lift-off with the Sensenich metal
FP prop - 79 inch pitch
RPM (PANEL) TACH CHECK
800 808
1000 1003
1200 1202
1300 1301
1500 1498
1700 1655
2000 1960
2200 2160
Full throttle
Static - 2250 2225
T/O - 2300 2235
2350 2300
2400 2360
2500 2440
2600 2535
2690 2600
At 2000ft - 2600 prop rpm - 25.5" MP - IAS is 172 kts CHT 350 Oil T
180 ( 85% - 136hp)
At 5000' - 2600 prop rpm - 24" MP - IAS is 165 kts. TAS is 180 kts
with 1/2" throttle travel remaining.(207 mph) Max CHT 355 F
Test Weight : 1535 lbs / 698 kg (full fuel, two crew)
This indicates that I could go to 80" pitch for operation below 5000 ft, but
may well be perfect for full throttle operation at 8,500 ft. I have only
tested to 7,500 ft and the engine wanted to go over an indicated 2700 rpm.
At least I know that it was, in reality, just a bit over 2600 rpm, the
specified limit for the prop.
On the other hand, I am getting great economy - last weekend we got 22
litres/hr (5.7 US gals/hr) at an IAS of 130kts (140kts TAS)
RPM 2300 indicated (so actually 2235 rpm) MP - 19.5 inches equals 55% power
( 75hp)
I welcome any comments, but based on the above, I am pretty happy with the
combination I have.
Martin in Oz
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
The spring idea seems like a simple solution and I'll probably go with it.
My only concern is that it will make the trim tab inclined to creep upward?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
Subject: RV-List: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
>
> Thanks for all of the responses to my query. I will probably go the route
of inserting a spring between the cable sheath and the clevis to tighten
things up. Vans support indicated that most manual trims have this play, it
is inherent in the cable system, and they have never experienced or heard of
a related problem. They get questions about it from time to time.
>
> The upshot of all of this is, if it bothers you, to tighten it up to
extent possible with a spring, and not to worry about it.
>
> Tony Marshall
> ArtDeco RV6
> www.lambros.com
> P.O. Box 906
> Polson, MT 59860
> 800-432-6828 Office
> 406-249-0835 Cell
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Engine/prop performance figs. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
I would recommend doing a airspeed calibration test as your IAS seems very
high to me. Just hold a constant airspeed/altitude on a 360 heading and
check GPS speed, do the same heading 120 and 240. Average the 3 and compare
to your indicated true air speed. I have done that with mine anf ind my
airspeed indicator is 3kts low in most cases. Attached is some speed data
for my RV6A.
John
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Heading -was D-10 review |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
Occasionally when we hear traffic ahead of us on vectors getting ten-degree
heading corrections as ATC tries to get us to fly a certain ground track,
they'll give up and ask one of the airliners with INS what their wind
display indicates.
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heading -was D-10 review
> --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
>
> On 10/22/04 12:45 PM, "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net> wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
>>
>> Just out of curiosity, how does ATC know what the wind is at my position?
>> I
>> would assume that they would need to know my initial heading, note my
>> track,
>> and then deduce the wind.
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>
> Mainly by giving vectors and seeing what happens. After the first few of
> the day, they will have a good idea. I've heard controllers who just got
> on
> shift remark that they don't "have" the wind yet, when they had to correct
> vectors.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://n5lp.net
>
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
steve zicree wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
>
> The spring idea seems like a simple solution and I'll probably go with it.
> My only concern is that it will make the trim tab inclined to creep upward?
>
Steve, I believe you are spending too much energy worrying about a
"problem" that isn't a problem. :-)
As has been stated by other listers and Vans, the small amount of slack
in the cable is normal and does not create either a trim or safety
issue. The air loads on the trim will take out the slack and you will
find the trim will be very easy and consistent to operate.
The spring should only be necessary if you end up with a situation like
Gary's where the trim is consistently at neutral with a particular
flight scenario. In nearly all flight situations, the trim will not be
at neutral and will be working against the slipstream. If after flying
the plane you find the trim to be similar to what Gary has described,
you can easily add a tension spring later. But I suspect you will never
need the spring.
To answer you question, no, the spring will not be strong enough to move
the trim against the drag of the cable and control knob.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 604 hrs, manual trims)
Message 32
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| Subject: | Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
I am not sure if it fits your bill but you might want to take a look at
Grand Rapids' "Horizon".
http://www.grtavionics.com
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bordelon, Greg
> Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 4:52 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite?
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
>
> Good question Chuck.
>
> I want to use it IFR and VFR, today and tomorrow.
>
> I want to pull my DG out and throw it on the hangar floor.... and put
> something electronic in its place, and not an "electric DG" either.
>
> I already have an indicator for my Garmin 430....so I don't have to have
> an HSI function in the DG but would use it if it were there. Anything
> else is a freebie since I already have all the other necessary IFR
> flight instruments installed.
>
> I saw the BMA G3 Lite (in HSI mode) and wondered if I could use it in
> place of my DG. I wonder how it would respond in IFR flight. Then I
> wondered what else might be out there that I had not already considered.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles
> Rowbotham
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite?
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
> --> <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
>
> Greg,
>
> Are you talking VFR or IFR? Both intially and down the road?
>
> Chuck
>
> >From: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite?
> >Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 11:07:52 -0500
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com>
> >
> >Since no one seems to be flying a Blue Mountain G3 Lite, I thought I
> >ask "What else is out there as an electronic DG or HSI replacement"?
> >
> >I wish to replace my vacuum DG with something electronic but don't want
>
> >to spend $10K for a Sandel or King KI-825.
> >
> >Any ideas??
> >
> >Thanks - Greg
>
>
> ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Control Vision EXP BUS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
Dan,
Thanks for the clear explanation of load dump. I read dozens of
messages from a couple of experts on the Aeroelectric-List, but no
one ever managed to explain load dump in an understandable fashion
before.
Kevin Horton
do not archive
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>Kevin,
>
>Having worked on GM's voltage regulator program back in the 1960s, I can shed
>some light on the mystery of load dump.
>
>Load dump is a term coined by the engineers I worked with, as far as I know
>anyway. Here is how a load dump happens. If the alternator is running full
>field (that is -- full output) charging the battery or any other load, and if
>that load becomes disconnected, the output voltage will soar. The alternator
>momentarily acts like a current source and tries to maintain the same current
>that it was putting out before the load came unhooked. The voltage
>can rise as
>high as about 80 to 100 volts. Battery connections in cars are notorious for
>developing loose connections, and that is what we were trying to protect
>against.
>
>Just shutting off the alternator by turning off the field breaker does not
>cause a load dump. You will not hurt your electronics by turning off the
>alternator, because the field current will decay and then the stator
>current (and
>output voltage) should also decay without a spike.
>
>To learn more about the nature of load dump, we used to simulate it with a
>great big knife switch mounted at the edge of a workbench. We would swing a
>baseball bat down at the knife switch to open it as quickly as possible. This
>made the greatest load dump voltage possible. The electronic
>devices (at least
>the regulator and ignition systems) were designed to withstand 80 volts for
>200 milliseconds. Today, avalanche diodes (zeners) in some alternators reduce
>this voltage to less than half those numbers. I couldn't tell you if my
>alternator (Van's 60 amp) uses this protection or not.
>
>I am familiar with automotive electronic circuits, and I can tell you that
>aircraft electronics, particularly low cost radios and intercoms, etc.,
>typically are not as robust as electronic systems designed for cars. I would
>therefore take all precautions available to turn off the electronics
>while cranking
>the engine. Having said that, I do have my Van's gauges wired direct to the
>master buss (through circuit breakers) as called out in the plans,
>and have not
>had any trouble. I do not, however, turn on the radios or other
>avionics until
>the engine is running and the alternator is on line.
>
>Dan Hopper
>retired automotive engineer
>RV-7A
>N766DH (Flying 60 hours since 7/7/04)
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Innovative Intake |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
>
>
>The ram air intake on our RV4 works very well, however, I believe
>that it is way too large -- 5 inch diameter opening, 7 inch outside
>diameter. The drag reduction penalty is too large for the gain in
>manifold pressure. So I would like to redesign the intake.
>
>It has an Airflow Performance fuel injection with a forward facing
>ram intake. I like the Van's design that has an intake filter in
>the baffling just forward of the #4 cylinder, but after close
>inspection, I don't believe there is enough room in our tightly
>cowled RV4 to do that. There is only about 3 inches of baffling
>available (compared to about 5 - 6 inches in the RV8), and the
>cowling cheek rakes back at a steep angle, leaving no room for an
>airbox or even a simple duct.
>
>I don't believe the standard lower scoop and airbox will work with
>this Airflow Performance intake.
>
>So what do you suggest? Does anyone have any innovative intake
>designs for this configuration - RV-4, Airflow Performance, very
>tight cowl.
>
>Here is a link to some pictures of the cowling and our RV-4. Note
>that the link is longer than one line so may need to cut and past.
>
>
>http://www.cartogra.com/servlet/com.hp.HPGuestLogin?username=mach25&password=83485262
>
>
>Thanks for your expertise
>
>
>Jeff Bertsch
>
>www.lonestarsquadron.com
Take a look at Kent Pacer's book, "Speed With Economy". He went
through a long series of mods on a Mustang II that resulted in a 64
mph speed increase without any engine internal mods, if I recall
correctly (I'm on the road, so I can't pull my copy off the book
shelf). He did play around with the induction air inlet, and ended
up with a very small inlet, on an extension to put it very close to
the back of the prop. It wasn't the most beautiful looking thing,
but it gave the best speed of all the ones he tried.
Kevin Horton
Message 35
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--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
>One other thought. We need to differentiate between Aerosance/Continental
>FADEC and the generic concept of Electronic Engine Management (EEM).
FADEC isn't just an Aerosance/Continental term - Full Authority
Digital Engine Control is a generic term that has been used in the
turbine engine world for at least 20 years.
>90% of what makes an engine "modern" has to do with fuel and ignition
>control.
>With EEM you can build a matrix of where for every known MP and RPM, a given
>Air:Fuel ratio and Ignition Advance setting is used.
>
>This allows the user to "tweak" the mixture to his heart's content. He just
>doesn't have to remember to do it while flying.
>
>Many of these systems have an auto-learn function to get you to a 90% map
>right away. Then the user can tweak the map as desired.
>
>They also automatically compensate for temp. Either by measuring the air's
>mass (a MAF system) which by its nature automatically compensates or by
>measuring the manifold absolute pressure and temp separately (a MAP system).
>
>Also, most have some type of detonation failsafe system that pulls timing
>when detonation is detected.
Does anyone make detonation sensors that work with engines with 90
cubic inch cylinders? That is almost 1.5 liter per cylinder, which
is much more than on the Subaru mentioned below. I had heard that
the vibration levels on our engines tended to confuse detonation
sensors, but I don't know if that is true or not.
>FINALLY, most also include data loggers, so after flying, you can review
>your A:F ratios, detonation events, etc in the comfort of your home.
>
>Bottom line is that an EEM system can allow MORE control over your engine
>than our traditional controls.
>
>As a reference, take a look at this link. This is for a system commonly
>used by Subaru tuners. It is very tunable, but also user friendly.
>
>http://www.elementtuning.com/technical/element_ems.htm
>
>Now we just need someone who is forward thinking like Theilert to come up
>with a system like this for us.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Don Mei
If we don't have a reliable detonation detector, do we really think
that having a user tunable FADEC is a good idea? If the engine in
your Subaru fails due to detonation it is a major inconvenience, but
if the engine in your RV fails due to detonation it could be a life
threatening event.
I think a well designed and tested FADEC is probably a good thing. A
poorly designed or inadequately tested could increase the risk of
engine failure. For aviation use, I'd stick to FADECs from the big
players with the resources to do it right. User tunable systems are
not a good idea, unless the user fully understands the implications
of being an engine test pilot.
--
Kevin Horton
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/%7Ekhorton/rv8
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Potential New Builder |
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
Darrell,
Well, if I lived anywhere even remotely close to Ohio I'd hook up with 'The
Ohio Valley RVators'. Matter of fact, they're having a big celebration
tomorrow.....should be about 18 to 20 RV's there You won't have any trouble getting
a
ride from any of these guys!! Check 'em out here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/
or here:
http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/index.html
Rick Gray RV6 O-360 Hartzell w/370hrs in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - shameless
plug :
)
do not archive
Hi All,
Thinking about taking the building plunge on a -9A. Any builders (model
not important) out there in Northeast Ohio that would let me take a look
at their project? I'm willing to trade a bit of sweat equity bucking
and shooting rivets for the learning experience...
Blue skies,
Darrell Clay
Cleveland, OH
Message 37
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| Subject: | Potential New Builder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
I'm a two time RV6A builder. 15 Miles south of Canton, Ohio. Your always
welcome here. Also I land at Burke Lake Front often for meetings in downtown
Clev, be happy to call the next time I,m up there. And Rick Gray is right,
tomorrow in New Philadelphia PHD is the place to be.
John Furey
330-324-2041
Message 38
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| Subject: | Innovative Intake |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
Thanks Greg.
Yes, converting to an updraft configuration would work, but it is kind of a "brute
force" solution. I talked to the Airflow Peformance folks today. In addition
to the airbox the cowling would probably need to be expanded by about 4 -
5 inches on the bottom. Also the linkages and brackets for throttle and mixture
would need to be redone.
Don at Airflow Performance suggested inserting a diffuser in the intake to smooth
the airflow and reduce the intake area. He said you only need about 5 square
inches of intake area. We currently have 19.6 square inches!
I'll probably try something like that first. Maybe make one on a lathe out of
wood and try different shapes and sizes. Do you have a lathe?
Wonder how I could affix them in the center of the intake?
Jeff
"Bordelon, Greg" <gbordelon@hess.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bordelon, Greg"
Nice bird there Jeff....
Idea for you. Remove the elbow to convert your forward facing injector
to an updraft injector. Then install the Van's filtered air box assembly
and graft on the standard Van's cowl scooper upper which seems to work
well for everyone.
Remember....a little fiberglass work is equal to a lot of fiberglass
work!
Greg ;)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Bertsch
Subject: RV-List: Innovative Intake
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch
The ram air intake on our RV4 works very well, however, I believe that
it is way too large -- 5 inch diameter opening, 7 inch outside
diameter. The drag reduction penalty is too large for the gain in
manifold pressure. So I would like to redesign the intake.
It has an Airflow Performance fuel injection with a forward facing ram
intake. I like the Van's design that has an intake filter in the
baffling just forward of the #4 cylinder, but after close inspection, I
don't believe there is enough room in our tightly cowled RV4 to do that.
There is only about 3 inches of baffling available (compared to about 5
- 6 inches in the RV8), and the cowling cheek rakes back at a steep
angle, leaving no room for an airbox or even a simple duct.
I don't believe the standard lower scoop and airbox will work with this
Airflow Performance intake.
So what do you suggest? Does anyone have any innovative intake designs
for this configuration - RV-4, Airflow Performance, very tight cowl.
Here is a link to some pictures of the cowling and our RV-4. Note that
the link is longer than one line so may need to cut and past.
http://www.cartogra.com/servlet/com.hp.HPGuestLogin?username=mach25&pass
word=83485262
Thanks for your expertise
Jeff Bertsch
www.lonestarsquadron.com
---------------------------------
==
==
==
==
---------------------------------
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Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Innovative Intake |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
Sounds interesting. I've also been wondering about methods for cleaning up the
exit area on the lower cowling to reduce the drag of cooling air exiting the
cowling. Greg, is this the guy you were talking about too?
Jeff Bertsch
www.lonestarsquadron.com
Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch
>
>
>The ram air intake on our RV4 works very well, however, I believe
>that it is way too large -- 5 inch diameter opening, 7 inch outside
>diameter. The drag reduction penalty is too large for the gain in
>manifold pressure. So I would like to redesign the intake.
>
>It has an Airflow Performance fuel injection with a forward facing
>ram intake. I like the Van's design that has an intake filter in
>the baffling just forward of the #4 cylinder, but after close
>inspection, I don't believe there is enough room in our tightly
>cowled RV4 to do that. There is only about 3 inches of baffling
>available (compared to about 5 - 6 inches in the RV8), and the
>cowling cheek rakes back at a steep angle, leaving no room for an
>airbox or even a simple duct.
>
>I don't believe the standard lower scoop and airbox will work with
>this Airflow Performance intake.
>
>So what do you suggest? Does anyone have any innovative intake
>designs for this configuration - RV-4, Airflow Performance, very
>tight cowl.
>
>Here is a link to some pictures of the cowling and our RV-4. Note
>that the link is longer than one line so may need to cut and past.
>
>
>http://www.cartogra.com/servlet/com.hp.HPGuestLogin?username=mach25&password=83485262
>
>
>Thanks for your expertise
>
>
>Jeff Bertsch
>
>www.lonestarsquadron.com
Take a look at Kent Pacer's book, "Speed With Economy". He went
through a long series of mods on a Mustang II that resulted in a 64
mph speed increase without any engine internal mods, if I recall
correctly (I'm on the road, so I can't pull my copy off the book
shelf). He did play around with the induction air inlet, and ended
up with a very small inlet, on an extension to put it very close to
the back of the prop. It wasn't the most beautiful looking thing,
but it gave the best speed of all the ones he tried.
Kevin Horton
---------------------------------
vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Electronic DG or HSI maybe BMA G3 Lite? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
>
>Any ideas??
>
>Yes. Get ahold of Dynon and become one of many voices asking them to develop
such a product. They have the hardware down, developing the software to display
VOR/GS signals should not be too difficult. They need some more motivation.
>
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
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