Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:53 AM - Baffles (Ron Schreck)
2. 06:07 AM - Re: Grand Rapids Horizon 1 (Chuck Jensen)
3. 08:37 AM - Re: Review of Dynon D-10 (Darwin Barrie)
4. 09:51 AM - Re: Engine/prop performance figs. (Kevin Horton)
5. 10:16 AM - locking parking brake cable? (Roger Evenson)
6. 11:23 AM - [ Neal George ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
7. 11:42 AM - Scratches in aluminum (David)
8. 12:29 PM - Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim (Jerry Springer)
9. 12:32 PM - Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim (Jerry Springer)
10. 12:47 PM - Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim (Kyle Boatright)
11. 12:50 PM - Rv8 - Canopy Frame Hole Location Tip (Improved) (Vincent Himsl)
12. 01:24 PM - Re: Rv8 - Canopy Frame Hole Location Tip (Improved) (Mickey Coggins)
13. 02:48 PM - Putting Air In Tires... (Alfred Klewin)
14. 02:52 PM - EGT/CHT Noise... (Alfred Klewin)
15. 03:00 PM - Re: Putting Air In Tires... (Scott Jackson)
16. 03:02 PM - Re: Putting Air In Tires... (Kyle Boatright)
17. 04:31 PM - Re: Putting Air In Tires... (linn walters)
18. 05:09 PM - Re: Putting Air In Tires... (Alex Peterson)
19. 05:30 PM - Aeroflash Strobe Rating ()
20. 05:48 PM - (steve zicree)
21. 05:49 PM - (steve zicree)
22. 05:56 PM - Canopy Latch Rods (steve zicree)
23. 06:19 PM - Re: Aeroflash Strobe Rating (Kathleen@rv7.us)
24. 06:19 PM - Re: Putting Air In Tires... (John Furey)
25. 06:22 PM - Re: locking parking brake cable? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
26. 06:40 PM - Re: locking parking brake cable? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
27. 07:02 PM - Re: Paul and Victoria's 2000 hour BBQ celebration (Vanremog@aol.com)
28. 07:05 PM - Re: Putting Air In Tires... (Dan Checkoway)
29. 07:22 PM - Re: Putting Air In Tires... (Stein Bruch)
30. 07:26 PM - Re: EGT/CHT Noise... (Charlie Kuss)
31. 07:34 PM - Re: Putting Air In Tires... (Mike Comeaux)
32. 07:53 PM - Re: Putting Air In Tires... (Dan Checkoway)
33. 08:23 PM - Too many lists? (Randy Lervold)
34. 08:42 PM - Re: Too many lists? (Jerry Springer)
35. 08:58 PM - Re: Putting Air In Tires... (Jeff Dowling)
36. 09:16 PM - Re: Putting Air In Tires... (Kyle Boatright)
37. 09:48 PM - Re: Too many lists? (Kysh)
38. 10:34 PM - Re: Putting Air In Tires... (Terry Watson)
39. 11:19 PM - Re: Canopy Latch Rods (H.Ivan Haecker)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@mail.webkorner.com>
Does anyone have a source for inter-cylinder baffles other than Lycoming? How
much can I expect to pay for these? Thanks.
Ron Schreck
RV-8
Gold Hill, NC
Sent via the WebMail system at mail.webkorner.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Grand Rapids Horizon 1 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chuck Jensen <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Paul,
I'm having dual GRT EFIS installed. I haven't had a single problem with
them, of course, I haven't flown yet either. I'll report initial
impressions next week.
Chuck
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Brown
Subject: RV-List: Grand Rapids Horizon 1
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Brown" <nightmare@adelphia.net>
Is there anyone out there who is using the GR Horizon 1 EFIS? Installed and
flying? I noticed on their website that they mention that there are "few
minor peoblems" with the unit. Has anyone had any probelms with the unit?
Paul
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Review of Dynon D-10 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
I chose the Dynon 10A for the features, the price and the company support. They
are genuinely interested in a quality product and getting it right.
I have seen so many planes with fancy glass equipment surrounded by a full set
of steam guages. I liken this to having a new plasma tv surrounded by a bunch
of GE tube tv's in case the plasma fails. I wonder if anyone has had a Dynon go
flatline? I don't know of any. I personally would be much more concerned about
a vacuum failure.
There are plenty of options for back up's without taking steps backwards. I chose
the Dynon with a TruTrak electric Turn and Bank indicator. The T&B looks like
an artificial horizon without pitch. At LOE I learned this will soon be a
full fledged artificial horizon and T&B, upgradeable!!!
I have also noticed that those with backups tend to fly those instead of the new
stuff. Old habits...... Although my panel looks light compared to others it
will be full IFR that I will feel comfortable with in IFR should the need arise.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Message 4
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| Subject: | Engine/prop performance figs. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
>I would recommend doing a airspeed calibration test as your IAS seems very
>high to me. Just hold a constant airspeed/altitude on a 360 heading and
>check GPS speed, do the same heading 120 and 240. Average the 3 and compare
>to your indicated true air speed. I have done that with mine anf ind my
>airspeed indicator is 3kts low in most cases. Attached is some speed data
>for my RV6A.
>
Taking an average of these three ground speeds is very simple, but it
doesn't give the correct answer. The amount of error depends on the
airspeed and wind velocity. For example, if your TAS was 180 kt, and
you had 50 kt of wind, the average of those three ground speeds would
be 183 to 184 kt, depending on the wind direction. I.e. it would
look like your airspeed indicator was reading 3 or 4 kt low.
The error with lower wind speeds is less (about 1 kt with 25 kt of
wind), but it is still not as accurate as using a mathematically
correct method.
If you want to use GPS ground speeds to figure out your TAS, you
should use a calculation method that is mathematically correct. I'm
on the road right now, and only have a few minutes a day of expensive
internet access, so I can't point you directly at a web site. But
you can go to my web site, look in the Flight Test Links section, and
find several links to using GPS to determine TAS.
I like the National Test Pilot School's approach. They take data on
four runs, on headings 90 degrees apart. They they use a calculation
method that Bruce Gray came up with - it only needs data from three
runs, so they do four calculations, dropping one of the runs for each
calculation. The results from the four calculations will be similar
if you have good data. If the results vary, that means your data is
bad, and you chuck it out. If you only have three runs you can't
tell good data from bad data.
--
Kevin Horton
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/%7Ekhorton/rv8
Message 5
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| Subject: | locking parking brake cable? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
Doesn't one need a locking type of parking brake cable?
I heard it wasn't necessary, but I'm thinking that as soon as one lets go of the
cable, the pressure in the brake line will be reduced, and off go the brakes.
C-172's use a locking mechanism.
Roger.
Message 6
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| Subject: | [ Neal George ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Neal George <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Subject: 110v Hobbs Meter
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL.10.23.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Scratches in aluminum |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David" <davewendi@comcast.net>
While drilling the lightening holes in the W-621 flap braces,
I managed to get some chips between the brace and the board it was resting on---on
the drill press. Due to the oscillations of the flap brace as the fly cutter
was doing its job, these shavings marred the surface of the aluminum. It takes
some pretty aggressive use of the scotchbrite wheel to remove these while
surely removing all of the alclad as well
as some percentage of the thickness of the part. My question is:
1) Lightly touch up the area with a scotchbrite wheel while
not totally removing the scratch?
2) Use the scothbrite wheel to completely remove the
scratch?
3) Scrap the part and start over?
This is not just one scratch.
Thanks,
David Kirby
RV6A-QB
Griffin, Ga.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Bah Humbug how many instances have you heard of flutter? Just about
every cable controlled
trim tab in an RV-6 has slop in it. That is just the way it is if you
have installed the manual trim tab cable
as the instruction say with an almost 180 degree turn in the cable. To
much worrying and to much scare tactics
going on here.
Jerry
do not archive
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>Something as potentially serious as this you should call the factory!!!
>
>I have also noticed on my trim (8a) that the harder you push the more it
>moves so you can make it move a lot if you want. At the trailing edge I
>have about +- 1/16 movement. If I lean on it +- 1/8. This plane only has
>about 200 hours on it.
>
>
>At 07:39 AM 10/22/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>>
>>Ditto - fix it! Looseness in the system can get you into the
>>flutter-possible condition about as well as improper mass or aerodynamic
>>instability.
>>
>>I have about 1/16" total deflection in my electric system. 1/2" total
>>deflection and I'd seriously consider grounding the plane.
>>
>>just my 2 cents
>>
>>Bryan
>>
>>
>>
>>>My first concern would be that any slop in a flight control that isn't
>>>supposed to be there may lead to flutter.
>>>Scott in VAncouver
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>Subject: RV-List: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
>>>>
>>>>while inspecting my rv6 today, a friend pointed out what seems to be
>>>>excessive free play in my elevator trim ie. grabbing the tab itself,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>there
>>>
>>>
>>>>seems to be excessive up and down movement in the tab, perhaps 1/4 inch
>>>>
>>>>
>>>up
>>>
>>>
>>>>and the same down....it just seems loose...in the cable. the movement
>>>>seems to be in the cable itself, but is so light that it would seem to
>>>>
>>>>
>>>be
>>>
>>>
>>>>somewhere near the rear end of the plane. the trim itself seems fine in
>>>>flight.
>>>>
>>>>should i be worried about this? is there an adjustment in the cable
>>>>itself somewhere. as i said, the movement is very light and would seem,
>>>>given the length of the cable, to be in the rear of the plane.
>>>>
>>>>ideas appreciated.
>>>>
>>>>tony marshall
>>>>artdeco rv6
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Tony Marshall wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
>
>Thanks for all of the responses to my query. I will probably go the route of
inserting a spring between the cable sheath and the clevis to tighten things up.
Vans support indicated that most manual trims have this play, it is inherent
in the cable system, and they have never experienced or heard of a related
problem. They get questions about it from time to time.
>
>The upshot of all of this is, if it bothers you, to tighten it up to extent possible
with a spring, and not to worry about it.
>
>Tony Marshall
>ArtDeco RV6
>www.lambros.com
>P.O. Box 906
>Polson, MT 59860
>800-432-6828 Office
>406-249-0835 Cell
>
>
>
>
Ok, now what are you going to do if the cable come un-connected some way
and the spring pushes it all the way one way or the other.
The thing to do is build it as Van says. OR install an electric trim as
I did after 300 hours of flight, much better much more positive
control IMO. :-)
Jerry
do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Jerry is right. Trim tab slop was addressed in the RVator 5-10 years ago.
The article (written by one of the staff) indicated that slop was normal and
not to worry about it.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> Bah Humbug how many instances have you heard of flutter? Just about
> every cable controlled
> trim tab in an RV-6 has slop in it. That is just the way it is if you
> have installed the manual trim tab cable
> as the instruction say with an almost 180 degree turn in the cable. To
> much worrying and to much scare tactics
> going on here.
>
> Jerry
> do not archive
>
> Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
>><bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>>Something as potentially serious as this you should call the factory!!!
>>
>>I have also noticed on my trim (8a) that the harder you push the more it
>>moves so you can make it move a lot if you want. At the trailing edge I
>>have about +- 1/16 movement. If I lean on it +- 1/8. This plane only has
>>about 200 hours on it.
>>
>>
>>At 07:39 AM 10/22/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>>>
>>>Ditto - fix it! Looseness in the system can get you into the
>>>flutter-possible condition about as well as improper mass or aerodynamic
>>>instability.
>>>
>>>I have about 1/16" total deflection in my electric system. 1/2" total
>>>deflection and I'd seriously consider grounding the plane.
>>>
>>>just my 2 cents
>>>
>>>Bryan
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>My first concern would be that any slop in a flight control that isn't
>>>>supposed to be there may lead to flutter.
>>>>Scott in VAncouver
>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>From: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
>>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>>Subject: RV-List: Excessive Play in Manual Elevator Trim
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
>>>>>
>>>>>while inspecting my rv6 today, a friend pointed out what seems to be
>>>>>excessive free play in my elevator trim ie. grabbing the tab itself,
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>there
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>seems to be excessive up and down movement in the tab, perhaps 1/4 inch
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>up
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>and the same down....it just seems loose...in the cable. the movement
>>>>>seems to be in the cable itself, but is so light that it would seem to
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>be
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>somewhere near the rear end of the plane. the trim itself seems fine
>>>>>in
>>>>>flight.
>>>>>
>>>>>should i be worried about this? is there an adjustment in the cable
>>>>>itself somewhere. as i said, the movement is very light and would
>>>>>seem,
>>>>>given the length of the cable, to be in the rear of the plane.
>>>>>
>>>>>ideas appreciated.
>>>>>
>>>>>tony marshall
>>>>>artdeco rv6
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>Scott Bilinski
>>Eng dept 305
>>Phone (858) 657-2536
>>Pager (858) 502-5190
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Rv8 - Canopy Frame Hole Location Tip (Improved) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
Hello,
My previous post began a mini obsession with finding a quick, easy, cheap
and accurate means of determining and marking round tubing. Fellow builders
have since suggested their tricks too, but I felt there had to be a better
way.
For the canopy skirt, I still think rubbing aluminum on the tube will leave
a very accurate mark. But the canopy requires a more elegant solution
because of its shape (especially the aft end), fragility and access.
My nomination...
Purchase a 4"-100mm Quick Ratcheting Bar Clamp from your local hardware
store. I paid <$3.00 for mine. The ones I am thinking of are really cheap,
black with orange plastic pads on the grip heads. Inspect them so that you
buy one where the heads mesh correctly or else get the best one and then
remove orange pads...they slide off, grind till they mesh correctly, and
then slide the orange pads back on.
Next cut off half the slider bar as it is too long for this task. Using
Scotch Wheel clean up end if not to protect you, to protect the canopy.
That's it!
How to use it....
With the canopy in place straddle the frame tube with the clamp and then
push gently so that both the orange pads touch the canopy. Tighten the clamp
only to point where clamp stays on the canopy frame tube. You will now be
able to measure hands free between the orange pads the exact center distance
tangent to the circular tubing on the plane of the glass canopy. If the
tension is just right, you can slide the clamp off, move it to the next
location, slide it on and then mark. There are a few holes where you can't
clamp but this is handled by drawing a line between holes on either side
that do.
Using this clamp, I was able to more accurately determine the point where
the canopy and frame touched. This worked especially well on the rear of the
canopy as I could do it by myself without the aid of someone inside and
without danger of scratching it with the aluminum trick. That I was able to
clamp and leave it thus freeing both my hands for measuring was an
incredible time saver. I was also able to mark the canopy directly freeing
up more time.
Comparing the accuracy to my aluminum procedure, both matched quite close
until the aft end then the clamp procedure became more accurate by @. 1/16".
Other methods, like carbon paper, printer ribbons, etc. though ok were
considerably more mess and more work and left a wider mark thus considerably
less accurate.
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8-VSB Finish
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Rv8 - Canopy Frame Hole Location Tip (Improved) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
If you used windshield glue to affix the canopy, wouldn't
all this hassle be unnecessary?
Mickey
>My previous post began a mini obsession with finding a quick, easy, cheap
>and accurate means of determining and marking round tubing. ...
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 13
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| Subject: | Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Alfred Klewin <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
Folks,
Having fun with my 6A....50+ hours now!! Still no
paint....anyway...anyone found a way around taking the front of the wheel pants
off to
fill the tires? I would like to drill a hold in the pants to be able to
slide a thin "filler attachment" to fill the tires. Air stop tubes
will help later too.....any ideas on a part number for a narrow filler attachment?
Cant seem to find one locally....
Kurt in OKC
RV6A, Finally Flying....
---------------------------------
vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
Message 14
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| Subject: | EGT/CHT Noise... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Alfred Klewin <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
Another quick question for the masses.....I have an RMI Engine Monitor (which I
love by the way!!) and there seems to be a small amount of noise affecting the
readings on my #2 and #3 CHTs. All EGTs are solid as is the #1 and #4 CHTS.
#2 and #3 bounce around 170C, 210C, 240C, 150C, etc....every few seconds or
so. Called RMI and he said it is most likely noise from something else. A little
bit of experimentation and I figured it out....its my Alternator....shut
it off and the problem goes away. The Alt wire is about 3 inches away from the
CHT/EGT leads at the closest point. Most likely the problem is aft of the
firewall as it affects both the left and right side CHT's, not just the right
where the alternator wire runs to the alternator. So my question is....other
than moving the wire (which I'll most likely do at the cond. inspection) are
there any other solutions?
Thanks...
Kurt in OKC
RV6A, 50 hours and counting!!!
---------------------------------
vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
Wicks has a nice valve stem extension that works great for this.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alfred Klewin" <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Putting Air In Tires...
> --> RV-List message posted by: Alfred Klewin <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
>
> Folks,
>
> Having fun with my 6A....50+ hours now!! Still no
> paint....anyway...anyone found a way around taking the front of the wheel
> pants off to
> fill the tires? I would like to drill a hold in the pants to be able to
> slide a thin "filler attachment" to fill the tires. Air stop tubes
> will help later too.....any ideas on a part number for a narrow filler
> attachment? Cant seem to find one locally....
>
> Kurt in OKC
> RV6A, Finally Flying....
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Your local NAPA or equivalent auto parts store should have a valve stem
extension tool (~$10) that is just the ticket. Drill a 7/8" or 1" hole in
the wheel pant to give access. You can find plugs for that hole at most
Home Depot's, Lowe's, Ace Hardware, etc. Make an alignment mark on your
tire so the valve stem is accessible when the alignment mark is in a
particular (visible) position. This means you won't spend 3 minutes per
tire jockeying the airplane to find the valve stem through that little 'ol
hole..
KB
--- Original Message -----
From: "Alfred Klewin" <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Putting Air In Tires...
> --> RV-List message posted by: Alfred Klewin <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
>
> Folks,
>
> Having fun with my 6A....50+ hours now!! Still no
> paint....anyway...anyone found a way around taking the front of the wheel
> pants off to
> fill the tires? I would like to drill a hold in the pants to be able to
> slide a thin "filler attachment" to fill the tires. Air stop tubes
> will help later too.....any ideas on a part number for a narrow filler
> attachment? Cant seem to find one locally....
>
> Kurt in OKC
> RV6A, Finally Flying....
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Alfred Klewin wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Alfred Klewin <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
>
>Folks,
>
> Having fun with my 6A....50+ hours now!! Still no
>paint....anyway...anyone found a way around taking the front of the wheel pants
off to
>fill the tires? I would like to drill a hold in the pants to be able to
>slide a thin "filler attachment" to fill the tires. Air stop tubes
>will help later too.....any ideas on a part number for a narrow filler attachment?
Cant seem to find one locally....
>
>Kurt in OKC
>RV6A, Finally Flying....
>
Go to a truck-tire store and get an extension for dual wheel rigs. It
screws on the stem and is about 4" long. Drill a hole in the wheel pant
below the axle bolt in line with the valve stem of the wheel. If you
paint a line on the wheel it makes it easier. Position the line below
the hole, screw the extension in and fill the tire. No more scuffed
wheel pants and standing on your head to get the tire chuck on the valve
stem! And if you want to dispense with a tire gauge, just fill the tire
till the outer most band just lifts off the pavement. You'll still get
even tire wear!
Linn
>
>
>
>---------------------------------
>vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> Having fun with my 6A....50+ hours now!! Still no
> paint....anyway...anyone found a way around taking the front
> of the wheel pants off to
> fill the tires? I would like to drill a hold in the pants to
> be able to
> slide a thin "filler attachment" to fill the tires. Air stop tubes
> will help later too.....any ideas on a part number for a
> narrow filler attachment? Cant seem to find one locally....
Kurt, good luck finding a decent tube for the nosewheel. Ain't one
available.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 545 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 19
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| Subject: | Aeroflash Strobe Rating |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
Would anyone happen to know how many Watts the aeroflash strobes (included in the
combo lights) are rated for? I know that both the Nova and the Whelan A500
is rated for 30, but I can't find the Aeroflash rating.
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
www.scottsrv7a.com
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 20
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1.16 MISSING_SUBJECT Missing Subject: header
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Hi All,
I'm starting to attach the canopy frame on my RV4 and was hoping someone could
explain the best way to make the latch rods. The plans show sort of a clevis on
the end that attaches to the inside handle. It looks as though I'm supposed
to cut a slit in the supplied tubing and then flatten it to make this. Is this
what others have done? It seems a little crude. Thanks.
Steve Zicree
Message 21
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1.16 MISSING_SUBJECT Missing Subject: header
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Hi All,
I'm starting to attach the canopy frame on my RV4 and was hoping someone could
explain the best way to make the latch rods. The plans show sort of a clevis on
the end that attaches to the inside handle. It looks as though I'm supposed
to cut a slit in the supplied tubing and then flatten it to make this. Is this
what others have done? It seems a little crude. Thanks.
Steve Zicree
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Canopy Latch Rods |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Hi All,
I'm starting to attach the canopy frame on my RV4 and was hoping someone could
explain the best way to make the latch rods. The plans show sort of a clevis on
the end that attaches to the inside handle. It looks as though I'm supposed
to cut a slit in the supplied tubing and then flatten it to make this. Is this
what others have done? It seems a little crude. Thanks.
Steve Zicree
Message 23
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| Subject: | Aeroflash Strobe Rating |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kathleen@rv7.us
They hide it way back in their parts area for obvious reasons. It's 10
joules which should be about 10 watt-sec. That doesn't compare all that
well with ShowMe at about 34-40 joules and Whelan at about 35-36 joules.
That's my take on it...
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
tx_jayhawk@excite.com
Subject: RV-List: Aeroflash Strobe Rating
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
Would anyone happen to know how many Watts the aeroflash strobes (included
in the combo lights) are rated for? I know that both the Nova and the
Whelan A500 is rated for 30, but I can't find the Aeroflash rating.
Thanks,
Scott
7A Wings
www.scottsrv7a.com
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 24
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| Subject: | Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
I have a hole in all 3 of mine wheel pants. Go to any RV (motor home) dealer
and get a long flexible attachment, works great.
John
2nd RV6A 275 hrs
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: locking parking brake cable? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Roger,
I took 2 pieces of 2x4 wood about 6 inches long and cut a 45 degree angle
along one side. When I park the plane, I get out and put one on the front side,
and one on the back side of one of the wheels. This has really worked great.
The idea came to me while at an airport looking at some airplanes parked on
the ramp.
Do not archive.
Dan
RV-7A
N766DH
In a message dated 10/23/04 12:18:23 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
revenson@comcast.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
>
> Doesn't one need a locking type of parking brake cable?
>
> I heard it wasn't necessary, but I'm thinking that as soon as one lets go of
> the cable, the pressure in the brake line will be reduced, and off go the
> brakes. C-172's use a locking mechanism.
>
> Roger
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: locking parking brake cable? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 10/23/2004 7:23:36 PM Central Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
The idea came to me while at an airport looking at some airplanes parked on
the ramp.
>>>>>
Hey Dan- I saw a hi-tek version of this the other day- some genius had
screwed a couple of eye bolts into the ends of them and connected them with rope!
Hoo'duhthought?!
ALSO do not archive ! Mark
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Paul and Victoria's 2000 hour BBQ celebration |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 10/13/2004 8:12:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
paul.rosales@lmco.com writes:
We'd like to invite all our friends to a BBQ on Saturday, October 23, at 1pm
at our hangar on the Rosamond Skypark.
============================================
I just got back from Paul and Victoria's party and had a good time. A
little dicey getting back into LVK, but managed. There was a good turn out and
the volunteer cooks were in fine form. But there wasn't a quesadilla or bowl
of menudo to be found ;o).
Looking at their 2000 hr plane, the only obvious wear item was the eroded
prop leading edge. Another plane parked nearby had a c/s prop with 3M prop
tape on the leading edge and I believe that this is the way to go. I'm going
to
clean up and paint my prop next condition inspection, put some of this tape
on mine and get a dynamic balance.
I got a chance to meet with friends and talk to one of the fellows soon to
receive his new Pmag(s). I am certainly looking forward to hearing any and
all installation and testing reports on these, as my order is already in. I
hope they show up by Christmas.
Thanks again gang and, for those not yet flying, keeping pounding those
rivets! Do not archive.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 725 hrs)
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> anyone found a way around taking the front of the wheel
> pants off to fill the tires?
Yeah, DON'T put air in at all! I'm not joking around. Buy a set of
*Michelin Air Stop* tubes (Spruce sells 'em) and you won't have to put air
in. They sure seem to work as advertised.
I used to put air in my -7's tires about once a week, maybe once every
couple of weeks if I was lucky. Changed the tires and tubes about 2 months
ago -- and I haven't had to put air in at all. Now it's no big deal if I
have to take the front wheel pant half off every few months. Figure it's a
good idea anyway to get a condition inspection in on your brakes and the
tire as a whole.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (260 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alfred Klewin" <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Putting Air In Tires...
> --> RV-List message posted by: Alfred Klewin <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
>
> Folks,
>
> Having fun with my 6A....50+ hours now!! Still no
> slide a thin "filler attachment" to fill the tires. Air stop tubes
> will help later too.....any ideas on a part number for a narrow filler
attachment? Cant seem to find one locally....
>
> Kurt in OKC
> RV6A, Finally Flying....
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Goodness.....this makes me feel pretty good about my cheap old aero trainers
that came with the kit. I've have them on both RV6's and don't have many
problems at all.
On one plane, it has well over 250+hrs and over two years. I think I've
probably added air "Maybe" 3-4 times a year! I keep an eye on them, and
they do pretty well. The 2 year old set still looks like they have another
2 years left on them.
Anyway, just what I've experienced.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV-List: Putting Air In Tires...
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> anyone found a way around taking the front of the wheel
> pants off to fill the tires?
Yeah, DON'T put air in at all! I'm not joking around. Buy a set of
*Michelin Air Stop* tubes (Spruce sells 'em) and you won't have to put air
in. They sure seem to work as advertised.
I used to put air in my -7's tires about once a week, maybe once every
couple of weeks if I was lucky. Changed the tires and tubes about 2 months
ago -- and I haven't had to put air in at all. Now it's no big deal if I
have to take the front wheel pant half off every few months. Figure it's a
good idea anyway to get a condition inspection in on your brakes and the
tire as a whole.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (260 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alfred Klewin" <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Putting Air In Tires...
> --> RV-List message posted by: Alfred Klewin <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
>
> Folks,
>
> Having fun with my 6A....50+ hours now!! Still no
> slide a thin "filler attachment" to fill the tires. Air stop tubes
> will help later too.....any ideas on a part number for a narrow filler
attachment? Cant seem to find one locally....
>
> Kurt in OKC
> RV6A, Finally Flying....
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT Noise... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Kurt,
Pull your alternator off and have the diodes checked. It sounds like you
might have a bad diode (or two)
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: Alfred Klewin <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
>
>Another quick question for the masses.....I have an RMI Engine Monitor
>(which I love by the way!!) and there seems to be a small amount of noise
>affecting the readings on my #2 and #3 CHTs. All EGTs are solid as is
>the #1 and #4 CHTS. #2 and #3 bounce around 170C, 210C, 240C, 150C,
>etc....every few seconds or so. Called RMI and he said it is most likely
>noise from something else. A little bit of experimentation and I figured
>it out....its my Alternator....shut it off and the problem goes away. The
>Alt wire is about 3 inches away from the CHT/EGT leads at the closest
>point. Most likely the problem is aft of the firewall as it affects both
>the left and right side CHT's, not just the right where the alternator
>wire runs to the alternator. So my question is....other than moving the
>wire (which I'll most likely do at the cond. inspection) are there any
>other solutions?
>
>Thanks...
>
>Kurt in OKC
>RV6A, 50 hours and counting!!!
>
>
>---------------------------------
>vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux@bendnet.com>
How about filling with nitrogen...Works well
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Putting Air In Tires...
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > anyone found a way around taking the front of the wheel
> > pants off to fill the tires?
>
> Yeah, DON'T put air in at all! I'm not joking around. Buy a set of
> *Michelin Air Stop* tubes (Spruce sells 'em) and you won't have to put air
> in. They sure seem to work as advertised.
>
> I used to put air in my -7's tires about once a week, maybe once every
> couple of weeks if I was lucky. Changed the tires and tubes about 2
months
> ago -- and I haven't had to put air in at all. Now it's no big deal if I
> have to take the front wheel pant half off every few months. Figure it's
a
> good idea anyway to get a condition inspection in on your brakes and the
> tire as a whole.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (260 hours)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alfred Klewin" <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Putting Air In Tires...
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Alfred Klewin <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Folks,
> >
> > Having fun with my 6A....50+ hours now!! Still no
> > slide a thin "filler attachment" to fill the tires. Air stop tubes
> > will help later too.....any ideas on a part number for a narrow filler
> attachment? Cant seem to find one locally....
> >
> > Kurt in OKC
> > RV6A, Finally Flying....
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
> >
> >
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Goodness.....this makes me feel pretty good about my cheap old aero
trainers
> that came with the kit. I've have them on both RV6's and don't have many
> problems at all.
As far as "cheap old" goes, Michelin Air Stop tubes are only a few bucks
more than the McCrappy ones. (I "splurged" on tubes but still use McCheapy
AirHawk tires.)
> On one plane, it has well over 250+hrs and over two years. I think I've
Your tires might behave differently when you fly 250+ hours in 6 months.
8-) I have to assume it's a function of takeoffs and landings as well as
just calendar time.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 33
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<vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Ok, climbing on the soap box now on this topic. I'm with Terry, what the RV community
needs is ONE good bbs system with all the features we all need, and I'll
get to that below. Having been on most of these lists since 1997 I can tell
you that Terry's recap of the history is accurate but doesn't finish the story.
Doug Reeves picked up the whole YahooGroups list management thing for RVs when
he started the World Wide Wing of Van's Air Force site and Moe Colontonio abandoned
the RV-8 list. Orignally Doug's site was simply intended to be a "white
pages" of RV builders, then he added more features, set up lists for all the
specific RV models, began adding advertising, added fresh RV-related news each
week, and it has evolved into what is today the most active RV site in the
world. Further, early on he established a relationship with Van's aircraft and
received an unofficial blessing. Of course Van's might be expected to manage
an online community themselves have never had interest in it preferring to focus
on making airplane kits. Therefore they were happy to see Doug take the iniative
with his new format.
So, now we have the following lists...
-The original Matronics lists managed by Matt Dralle
-The YahooGroups lists managed by Doug Reeves
-A startup called www.rvaero.com
-Another startup called www.rivetbangers.com
-Others I've seen but can't remember
Let's take a look at the forum/message technology platform of each...
Matronics is a proprietary message distribution system that Matt has coded himself.
This means that if you're a member you simply get a bunch of messages in
your mailbox. He has added a web-based browse feature, again that he wrote, but
frankly it doesn't compare IMHO to the commercial bbs engines out there. This
system is free but it is suggested to make an annual donation if you are a
regular. Formating options are non-existent.
The YahooGroups system that Doug Reeves hitched a ride on offers more features
than the Matronics system, but also has some limitations and is definitely not
state-of-the-art. All YahooGroups are free, they pay for it with ads that appear
at various places. As with the Matronics system, Doug has set up both an all
purpose list as well as model-specific lists. Sign up for as many or few as
you like, and you can browse the messages online if you prefer not to receive
a flood of individual messages. Formatting options are weak.
Rivetbangers.com uses the popular phpBB bulletin board system and is completely
web based. You never receive individual messages unless you have it set to send
you one when someone responds to one of your posts. Personally, I really like
this system best because my mailbox does not get flooded with hundreds of
messages, and the browser presentation is excellent and by topic. There are quite
a few options for customizing your view as well fairly robust formatting of
messages, including the ability to attach files and pictures. The pphBB system
is normally free, and I'm not sure how they generate revenue, perhaps someone
can provide that information.
RVaero.com appears to use another commercial bbs system, but after just a cursory
look I think I prefer the phpBB system. They are now soliciting "charter members"
and it's not clear to me if they intend to start charging for membership
or not.
Now let's talking about something very important: management. Both Matt Dralle
and Doug Reeves have proven to be excellent managers with the best interest of
the RV community in mind at all times. They have both demonstrated that they
are willing to devote the time necessary, and have the technical skills required.
RVaero.com seems anonomous, I can't find the name of the webmaster anywhere
so I have no idea what this person's motivation or agenda is. Rivetbangers.com
indicates it is managed by Mark Ferguson, Dave Bunting, and Ron Heberlein,
but again, I have no idea as to their motivation or agenda.
Now, what do we need in an online forum?
1. Message presentation by thread or by date
2. Option for web browsing or individual e-mails sent
3. Good search functionality
4. Good categorization
5. Ability to include pics and files WITH messages
6. Ability to post & store pictures in a gallery
7. Ability to post & store files someplace central
Off soap box now.
Randy Lervold, now building second RV
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
Vice President EAA Chapter 105
EAA Technical Counselor
EAA Flight Advisor
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry Watson
To: RV-8@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2004 2:24 PM
Subject: RE: [RV-8] Re: www.rivetbangers.com
OK, here's a different perspective:
When I ordered my tail kit in the spring of 1998, there was one RV list, and
that was Matt Dralle's Matronics RV list. It had been going for quite some time
before I discovered RV's. I had been building for a few months when one of
the RV-8 builders on the list, a young Marine reservist in New Jersey if I remember
right, decided that it would be nice to have a list for RV-8's only, instead
of all RVs. At the very same time, Matt asked us on the Matronics RV list
if we would like to have a separate list for each model. Then there was some
discussion about whether there should be only one RV-8 list, and if that should
be Matronics or the Yahoo list. This resulted in two RV-8 lists; one on Yahoo
and another by Matronics. Eventually the man in New Jersey who had started
the Yahoo list decided he was more interested in his new motorcycle than building
an RV-8, so he sold the RV-8 project and passed the list on to someone
else to administer. Then and now, I much preferred the Matronics list, and in
fact would have been happier if it had all stayed a part of the original RV list.
There are far more similarities than differences among RV's, and if you
only follow one list and there are several of them, you miss a lot of useful information.
Which finally brings me to my point. Why do people keep creating new lists and
encouraging people to switch to their list? Is this all because someone needs
their ego massaged by being in charge of a list? I haven't found any compelling
reason to need another place to meet with RV builders on line, and certainly
not another place to meet with RV-8 builders. But I do want to hear the
latest ideas from all you smart guys building or flying RV's, especially RV-8's,
and most especially those with RV-8A's with Superior XP-IO-360-B1B's with
Whirlwind props and Blue Mountain EFIS/ones and LightSpeed ignitions. But some
of you tailwheel guys have the occasional good idea too, so I sure don't want
someone to start an RV-8A list.
You say "I think at some point we should congregate to one and then shut the
others down so were not spread out all over the place." Then why are you starting
another one, and WHO is going to "shut the others down"?
Terry Watson
RV-8A #80729 wiring
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: firefighterspike33 [mailto:firefighterspike33@yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2004 1:18 PM
To: RV-8@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [RV-8] Re: www.rivetbangers.com
Thanx Jerry I appreciate the kudos. The way to get people to move away
from yahoo I think is to encourage them and to make use of the new
boards. Mine is not the only one. There are one or two others that
just opened. www.rvaero.com comes to mind. I think at some point we
should congregate to one and then shut the others down so were not
spread out all over the place. Anyway I think your right and that the
web based forums are the best thing since sliced bread.
-- John
ADVERTISEMENT
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-8/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV-8-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Too many lists? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
You all miss the point, it is still a free country here in the US anyway
so anyone can start a list that wants to.
The secret is to just join the one you want, and forget the others. I
have no desire to go to all the offbeat list
that get started out there and I only frequent Dougs list and Matts
list. There is all the RV info I could ever want or need
on these two excellent lists. If there is something on the other lists
and I miss it so what I don't care. Just because someone starts
a list does not mean I have join it.
Jerry
do not archive
Randy Lervold wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>
>Ok, climbing on the soap box now on this topic. I'm with Terry, what the RV community
needs is ONE good bbs system with all the features we all need, and I'll
get to that below. Having been on most of these lists since 1997 I can tell
you that Terry's recap of the history is accurate but doesn't finish the story.
Doug Reeves picked up the whole YahooGroups list management thing for RVs when
he started the World Wide Wing of Van's Air Force site and Moe Colontonio
abandoned the RV-8 list. Orignally Doug's site was simply intended to be a "white
pages" of RV builders, then he added more features, set up lists for all the
specific RV models, began adding advertising, added fresh RV-related news each
week, and it has evolved into what is today the most active RV site in the
world. Further, early on he established a relationship with Van's aircraft and
received an unofficial blessing. Of course Van's might be expected to manage
an online community themselves have never had intere!
>st in it preferring to focus on making airplane kits. Therefore they were happy
to see Doug take the iniative with his new format.
>
>So, now we have the following lists...
>
>-The original Matronics lists managed by Matt Dralle
>-The YahooGroups lists managed by Doug Reeves
>-A startup called www.rvaero.com
>-Another startup called www.rivetbangers.com
>-Others I've seen but can't remember
>
>Let's take a look at the forum/message technology platform of each...
>
>Matronics is a proprietary message distribution system that Matt has coded himself.
This means that if you're a member you simply get a bunch of messages in
your mailbox. He has added a web-based browse feature, again that he wrote,
but frankly it doesn't compare IMHO to the commercial bbs engines out there.
This system is free but it is suggested to make an annual donation if you are
a regular. Formating options are non-existent.
>
>The YahooGroups system that Doug Reeves hitched a ride on offers more features
than the Matronics system, but also has some limitations and is definitely not
state-of-the-art. All YahooGroups are free, they pay for it with ads that appear
at various places. As with the Matronics system, Doug has set up both an
all purpose list as well as model-specific lists. Sign up for as many or few as
you like, and you can browse the messages online if you prefer not to receive
a flood of individual messages. Formatting options are weak.
>
>Rivetbangers.com uses the popular phpBB bulletin board system and is completely
web based. You never receive individual messages unless you have it set to
send you one when someone responds to one of your posts. Personally, I really
like this system best because my mailbox does not get flooded with hundreds of
messages, and the browser presentation is excellent and by topic. There are quite
a few options for customizing your view as well fairly robust formatting
of messages, including the ability to attach files and pictures. The pphBB system
is normally free, and I'm not sure how they generate revenue, perhaps someone
can provide that information.
>
>RVaero.com appears to use another commercial bbs system, but after just a cursory
look I think I prefer the phpBB system. They are now soliciting "charter members"
and it's not clear to me if they intend to start charging for membership
or not.
>
>Now let's talking about something very important: management. Both Matt Dralle
and Doug Reeves have proven to be excellent managers with the best interest of
the RV community in mind at all times. They have both demonstrated that they
are willing to devote the time necessary, and have the technical skills required.
RVaero.com seems anonomous, I can't find the name of the webmaster anywhere
so I have no idea what this person's motivation or agenda is. Rivetbangers.com
indicates it is managed by Mark Ferguson, Dave Bunting, and Ron Heberlein,
but again, I have no idea as to their motivation or agenda.
>
>Now, what do we need in an online forum?
>1. Message presentation by thread or by date
>2. Option for web browsing or individual e-mails sent
>3. Good search functionality
>4. Good categorization
>5. Ability to include pics and files WITH messages
>6. Ability to post & store pictures in a gallery
>7. Ability to post & store files someplace central
>
>
>Off soap box now.
>
>Randy Lervold, now building second RV
>www.rv-3.com
>www.rv-8.com
>Vice President EAA Chapter 105
>EAA Technical Counselor
>EAA Flight Advisor
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Terry Watson
> To: RV-8@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2004 2:24 PM
> Subject: RE: [RV-8] Re: www.rivetbangers.com
>
>
> OK, here's a different perspective:
>
>
> When I ordered my tail kit in the spring of 1998, there was one RV list, and
that was Matt Dralle's Matronics RV list. It had been going for quite some time
before I discovered RV's. I had been building for a few months when one of
the RV-8 builders on the list, a young Marine reservist in New Jersey if I remember
right, decided that it would be nice to have a list for RV-8's only, instead
of all RVs. At the very same time, Matt asked us on the Matronics RV list
if we would like to have a separate list for each model. Then there was some
discussion about whether there should be only one RV-8 list, and if that should
be Matronics or the Yahoo list. This resulted in two RV-8 lists; one on
Yahoo and another by Matronics. Eventually the man in New Jersey who had started
the Yahoo list decided he was more interested in his new motorcycle than building
an RV-8, so he sold the RV-8 project and passed the list on to someone
else to administer. Then and now, I much preferred !
>the Matronics list, and in fact would have been happier if it had all stayed a
part of the original RV list. There are far more similarities than differences
among RV's, and if you only follow one list and there are several of them,
you miss a lot of useful information.
>
>
> Which finally brings me to my point. Why do people keep creating new lists
and encouraging people to switch to their list? Is this all because someone needs
their ego massaged by being in charge of a list? I haven't found any compelling
reason to need another place to meet with RV builders on line, and certainly
not another place to meet with RV-8 builders. But I do want to hear the
latest ideas from all you smart guys building or flying RV's, especially RV-8's,
and most especially those with RV-8A's with Superior XP-IO-360-B1B's with
Whirlwind props and Blue Mountain EFIS/ones and LightSpeed ignitions. But some
of you tailwheel guys have the occasional good idea too, so I sure don't want
someone to start an RV-8A list.
>
>
> You say "I think at some point we should congregate to one and then shut the
others down so were not spread out all over the place." Then why are you starting
another one, and WHO is going to "shut the others down"?
>
>
> Terry Watson
>
> RV-8A #80729 wiring
>
> Seattle
>
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Do you keep the valve extension attached? How long of an extension? Im
having the same dilema.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
140 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Putting Air In Tires...
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>
> Your local NAPA or equivalent auto parts store should have a valve stem
> extension tool (~$10) that is just the ticket. Drill a 7/8" or 1" hole in
> the wheel pant to give access. You can find plugs for that hole at most
> Home Depot's, Lowe's, Ace Hardware, etc. Make an alignment mark on your
> tire so the valve stem is accessible when the alignment mark is in a
> particular (visible) position. This means you won't spend 3 minutes per
> tire jockeying the airplane to find the valve stem through that little 'ol
> hole..
>
> KB
>
>
> --- Original Message -----
> From: "Alfred Klewin" <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Putting Air In Tires...
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Alfred Klewin <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
>>
>> Folks,
>>
>> Having fun with my 6A....50+ hours now!! Still no
>> paint....anyway...anyone found a way around taking the front of the wheel
>> pants off to
>> fill the tires? I would like to drill a hold in the pants to be able to
>> slide a thin "filler attachment" to fill the tires. Air stop tubes
>> will help later too.....any ideas on a part number for a narrow filler
>> attachment? Cant seem to find one locally....
>>
>> Kurt in OKC
>> RV6A, Finally Flying....
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------
>> vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
The extension is screwed onto one valve stem at a time. You attach it,
inflate a tire, unscrew it, and move to the next tire. It is about the size
of a pen or pencil, but weighs a little more, being made of steel. I keep
mine in the fly-away tool kit that I take with me on all non-aerobatic
flights.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Putting Air In Tires...
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> Do you keep the valve extension attached? How long of an extension? Im
> having the same dilema.
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 140 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Putting Air In Tires...
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>>
>> Your local NAPA or equivalent auto parts store should have a valve stem
>> extension tool (~$10) that is just the ticket. Drill a 7/8" or 1" hole
>> in
>> the wheel pant to give access. You can find plugs for that hole at most
>> Home Depot's, Lowe's, Ace Hardware, etc. Make an alignment mark on your
>> tire so the valve stem is accessible when the alignment mark is in a
>> particular (visible) position. This means you won't spend 3 minutes per
>> tire jockeying the airplane to find the valve stem through that little
>> 'ol
>> hole..
>>
>> KB
>>
>>
>> --- Original Message -----
>> From: "Alfred Klewin" <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
>> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RV-List: Putting Air In Tires...
>>
>>
>>> --> RV-List message posted by: Alfred Klewin <rv6aokc@yahoo.com>
>>>
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>> Having fun with my 6A....50+ hours now!! Still no
>>> paint....anyway...anyone found a way around taking the front of the
>>> wheel
>>> pants off to
>>> fill the tires? I would like to drill a hold in the pants to be able to
>>> slide a thin "filler attachment" to fill the tires. Air stop tubes
>>> will help later too.....any ideas on a part number for a narrow filler
>>> attachment? Cant seem to find one locally....
>>>
>>> Kurt in OKC
>>> RV6A, Finally Flying....
>>>
>>>
>>> ---------------------------------
>>> vote.yahoo.com - Register online to vote today!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Too many lists? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kysh <vans-dragon@lapdragon.org>
As Randy Lervold was saying:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>
> <snip blah blah blah>
Yeah, every mailing list has been seeing this crap for the past few years, ever
since a lot of technically ignorant people arrived on the internet and decided
that it should be run their way.
Literally, your message is almost a carbon copy of the common arguments used for
http-based system. It get tiring hearing them after a while. It remind me of the
whole reply-to-lists reply-to-sender debate.
If people need cute little smiley faces and dopey user pics, by all means, use
your web board. If people are actually in it for the content, mailing lists are,
and always will be, the way to go.
Not all information can be or should be consolidated.
Do not archive
-Kysh
--
| 'Life begins at 120kias' - http://www.lapdragon.org/flying |
| CBR-F4 streetbike - http://www.lapdragon.org/cbr |
| 1968 Mustang fastback - http://www.lapdragon.org/mustang |
| Got 'nix? - http://www.infrastructure.org/ |
| KG6FOB - http://www.lapdragon.org/ham |
| Give blood: Play Hockey! http://www.unixdragon.com/ |
Message 38
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| Subject: | Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
They will make a hell of a racket during taxi & takeoff if you leave them
attached! Pointing that out was how I got mine free from my friend who
bought two for his Cirrus SR-22.
Terry
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Do you keep the valve extension attached? How long of an extension? Im
having the same dilema.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
140 hours
Chicago/Louisville
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Latch Rods |
--> RV-List message posted by: "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl@gvtc.com>
Steve,
Like many things on the rv kits, especially the earlier models, things are
designed to be as simple as possible. Often times this means as inexpensive
as possible and as light as possible. Your example fits in this category. It
can be made to look very nice if you are willing to invest time and effort.
If you don't, you are correct; it will look crude, but it will still be
light and inexpensive. Congratulations, you've been "Van-dalized".
Ivan Haecker -4 1100 hrs. S. Cen TX
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List: Canopy Latch Rods
> --> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm starting to attach the canopy frame on my RV4 and was hoping someone
could explain the best way to make the latch rods. The plans show sort of a
clevis on the end that attaches to the inside handle. It looks as though I'm
supposed to cut a slit in the supplied tubing and then flatten it to make
this. Is this what others have done? It seems a little crude. Thanks.
>
> Steve Zicree
>
>
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